On the 3rd of October our cable rushed with a huge rattle7 into the blue sea before Jaffa, at a distance of considerably8 more than a mile off the town, which lay before us very clear, with the flags of the consuls9 flaring11 in the bright sky and making a cheerful and hospitable12 show. The houses a great heap of sun-baked stones, surmounted13 here and there by minarets14 and countless15 little whitewashed16 domes18; a few date-trees spread out their fan-like heads over these dull-looking buildings; long sands stretched away on either side, with low purple hills behind them; we could see specks19 of camels crawling over these yellow plains; and those persons who were about to land had the leisure to behold20 the sea-spray flashing over the sands, and over a heap of black rocks which lie before the entry to the town. The swell is very great, the passage between the rocks narrow, and the danger sometimes considerable. So the guide began to entertain the ladies and other passengers in the huge country boat which brought us from the steamer with an agreeable story of a lieutenant21 and eight seamen22 of one of Her Majesty’s ships, who were upset, dashed to pieces, and drowned upon these rocks, through which two men and two boys, with a very moderate portion of clothing, each standing23 and pulling half an oar24 — there were but two oars25 between them, and another by way of rudder — were endeavouring to guide us.
When the danger of the rocks and surf was passed, came another danger of the hideous26 brutes27 in brown skins and the briefest shirts, who came towards the boat, straddling through the water with outstretched arms, grinning and yelling their Arab invitations to mount their shoulders. I think these fellows frightened the ladies still more than the rocks and the surf; but the poor creatures were obliged to submit; and, trembling, were accommodated somehow upon the mahogany backs of these ruffians, carried through the shallows, and flung up to a ledge28 before the city gate, where crowds more of dark people were swarming29, howling after their fashion. The gentlemen, meanwhile, were having arguments about the eternal backsheesh with the roaring Arab boatmen; and I recall with wonder and delight especially, the curses and screams of one small and extremely loud-lunged fellow, who expressed discontent at receiving a five, instead of a six-piastre piece. But how is one to know, without possessing the language? Both coins are made of a greasy30 pewtery sort of tin; and I thought the biggest was the most valuable: but the fellow showed a sense of their value, and a disposition31 seemingly to cut any man’s throat who did not understand it. Men’s throats have been cut for a less difference before now.
Being cast upon the ledge, the first care of our gallantry was to look after the ladies, who were scared and astonished by the naked savage32 brutes, who were shouldering the poor things to and fro; and bearing them through these and a dark archway, we came into a street crammed33 with donkeys and their packs and drivers, and towering camels with leering eyes looking into the second-floor rooms, and huge splay feet, through which mesdames et mesdemoiselles were to be conducted. We made a rush at the first open door, and passed comfortably under the heels of some horses gathered under the arched court, and up a stone staircase, which turned out to be that of the Russian consul10’s house. His people welcomed us most cordially to his abode34, and the ladies and the luggage (objects of our solicitude) were led up many stairs and across several terraces to a most comfortable little room, under a dome17 of its own, where the representative of Russia sat. Women with brown faces and draggle-tailed coats and turbans, and wondering eyes, and no stays, and blue beads35 and gold coins hanging round their necks, came to gaze, as they passed, upon the fair neat Englishwomen. Blowsy black cooks puffing36 over fires and the strangest pots and pans on the terraces, children paddling about in long striped robes, interrupted their sports or labours to come and stare; and the consul, in his cool domed38 chamber39, with a lattice overlooking the sea, with clean mats, and pictures of the Emperor, the Virgin40, and St. George, received the strangers with smiling courtesies, regaling the ladies with pomegranates and sugar, the gentlemen with pipes of tobacco, whereof the fragrant41 tubes were three yards long.
The Russian amenities42 concluded, we left the ladies still under the comfortable cool dome of the Russian consulate43, and went to see our own representative. The streets of the little town are neither agreeable to horse nor foot travellers. Many of the streets are mere44 flights of rough steps, leading abruptly45 into private houses: you pass under archways and passages numberless; a steep dirty labyrinth46 of stone-vaulted stables and sheds occupies the ground-floor of the habitations; and you pass from flat to flat of the terraces; at various irregular corners of which, little chambers47, with little private domes, are erected48, and the people live seemingly as much upon the terrace as in the room.
We found the English consul in a queer little arched chamber, with a strange old picture of the King’s arms to decorate one side of it: and here the consul, a demure49 old man, dressed in red flowing robes, with a feeble janissary bearing a shabby tin-mounted staff, or mace50, to denote his office, received such of our nation as came to him for hospitality. He distributed pipes and coffee to all and every one; he made us a present of his house and all his beds for the night, and went himself to lie quietly on the terrace; and for all this hospitality he declined to receive any reward from us, and said he was but doing his duty in taking us in. This worthy52 man, I thought, must doubtless be very well paid by our Government for making such sacrifices; but it appears that he does not get one single farthing, and that the greater number of our Levant consuls are paid at a similar rate of easy remuneration. If we have bad consular53 agents, have we a right to complain? If the worthy gentlemen cheat occasionally, can we reasonably be angry? But in travelling through these countries, English people, who don’t take into consideration the miserable54 poverty and scanty55 resources of their country, and are apt to brag56 and be proud of it, have their vanity hurt by seeing the representatives of every nation but their own well and decently maintained, and feel ashamed at sitting down under the shabby protection of our mean consular flag.
The active young men of our party had been on shore long before us, and seized upon all the available horses in the town; but we relied upon a letter from Halil Pasha, enjoining57 all governors and pashas to help us in all ways: and hearing we were the bearers of this document, the cadi and vice-governor of Jaffa came to wait upon the head of our party; declared that it was his delight and honour to set eyes upon us; that he would do everything in the world to serve us; that there were no horses, unluckily, but he would send and get some in three hours; and so left us with a world of grinning bows and many choice compliments from one side to the other, which came to each filtered through an obsequious58 interpreter. But hours passed, and the clatter59 of horses’ hoofs60 was not heard. We had our dinner of eggs and flaps of bread, and the sunset gun fired: we had our pipes and coffee again, and the night fell. Is this man throwing dirt upon us? we began to think. Is he laughing at our beards, and are our mothers’ graves ill-treated by this smiling swindling cadi? We determined61 to go and seek in his own den51 this shuffling62 dispenser of infidel justice. This time we would be no more bamboozled63 by compliments; but we would use the language of stern expostulation, and, being roused, would let the rascal64 hear the roar of the indignant British lion; so we rose up in our wrath65. The poor consul got a lamp for us with a bit of wax-candle, such as I wonder his means could afford; the shabby janissary marched ahead with his tin mace; the two laquais-de-place, that two of our company had hired, stepped forward, each with an old sabre, and we went clattering66 and stumbling down the streets of the town, in order to seize upon this cadi in his own divan67. I was glad, for my part (though outwardly majestic68 and indignant in demeanour), that the horses had not come, and that we had a chance of seeing this little queer glimpse of Oriental life, which the magistrate’s faithlessness procured69 for us.
As piety70 forbids the Turks to eat during the weary daylight hours of the Ramazan, they spend their time profitably in sleeping until the welcome sunset, when the town wakens: all the lanterns are lighted up; all the pipes begin to puff37, and the narghiles to bubble; all the sour-milk-and-sherbet-men begin to yell out the excellence71 of their wares72; all the frying-pans in the little dirty cookshops begin to friz, and the pots to send forth73 a steam: and through this dingy74, ragged75, bustling76, beggarly, cheerful scene, we began now to march towards the Bow Street of Jaffa. We bustled77 through a crowded narrow archway which led to the cadi’s police-office, entered the little room, atrociously perfumed with musk78, and passing by the rail-board, where the common sort stood, mounted the stage upon which his worship and friends sat, and squatted79 down on the divans80 in stern and silent dignity. His honour ordered us coffee, his countenance81 evidently showing considerable alarm. A black slave, whose duty seemed to be to prepare this beverage82 in a side-room with a furnace, prepared for each of us about a teaspoonful83 of the liquor: his worship’s clerk, I presume, a tall Turk of a noble aspect, presented it to us; and having lapped up the little modicum84 of drink, the British lion began to speak.
All the other travellers (said the lion with perfect reason) have good horses and are gone; the Russians have got horses, the Spaniards have horses, the English have horses, but we, we vizirs in our country, coming with letters of Halil Pasha, are laughed at, spit upon! Are Halil Pasha’s letters dirt, that you attend to them in this way? Are British lions dogs that you treat them so? — and so on. This speech with many variations was made on our side for a quarter of an hour; and we finally swore that unless the horses were forthcoming we would write to Halil Pasha the next morning, and to His Excellency the English Minister at the Sublime85 Porte. Then you should have heard the chorus of Turks in reply: a dozen voices rose up from the divan, shouting, screaming, ejaculating, expectorating (the Arabic spoken language seems to require a great employment of the two latter oratorical87 methods), and uttering what the meek88 interpreter did not translate to us, but what I dare say were by no means complimentary89 phrases towards us and our nation. Finally, the palaver90 concluded by the cadi declaring that by the will of Heaven horses should be forthcoming at three o’clock in the morning; and that if not, why, then, we might write to Halil Pasha.
This posed us, and we rose up and haughtily91 took leave. I should like to know that fellow’s real opinion of us lions very much: and especially to have had the translation of the speeches of a huge-breeched turbaned roaring infidel, who looked and spoke86 as if he would have liked to fling us all into the sea, which was hoarsely92 murmuring under our windows an accompaniment to the concert within.
We then marched through the bazaars94, that were lofty and grim, and pretty full of people. In a desolate95 broken building, some hundreds of children were playing and singing; in many corners sat parties over their water-pipes, one of whom every now and then would begin twanging out a most queer chant; others there were playing at casino — a crowd squatted around the squalling gamblers, and talking and looking on with eager interest. In one place of the bazaar93 we found a hundred people at least listening to a story-teller who delivered his tale with excellent action, voice, and volubility: in another they were playing a sort of thimble-rig with coffee-cups, all intent upon the game, and the player himself very wild lest one of our party, who had discovered where the pea lay, should tell the company. The devotion and energy with which all these pastimes were pursued, struck me as much as anything. These people have been playing thimble-rig and casino; that story-teller has been shouting his tale of Antar for forty years; and they are just as happy with this amusement now as when first they tried it. Is there no ennui96 in the Eastern countries, and are blue-devils not allowed to go abroad there?
From the bazaars we went to see the house of Mustapha, said to be the best house and the greatest man of Jaffa. But the great man had absconded97 suddenly, and had fled into Egypt. The Sultan had made a demand upon him for sixteen thousand purses, 80,000l. — Mustapha retired98 — the Sultan pounced99 down upon his house, and his goods, his horses and his mules100. His harem was desolate. Mr. Milnes could have written six affecting poems, had he been with us, on the dark loneliness of that violated sanctuary101. We passed from hall to hall, terrace to terrace — a few fellows were slumbering102 on the naked floors, and scarce turned as we went by them. We entered Mustapha’s particular divan — there was the raised floor, but no bearded friends squatting103 away the night of Ramazan; there was the little coffee furnace, but where was the slave and the coffee and the glowing embers of the pipes? Mustapha’s favourite passages from the Koran were still painted up on the walls, but nobody was the wiser for them. We walked over a sleeping negro, and opened the windows which looked into his gardens. The horses and donkeys, the camels and mules were picketed104 there below, but where is the said Mustapha? From the frying-pan of the Porte, has he not fallen into the fire of Mehemet Ali? And which is best, to broil105 or to fry? If it be but to read the “Arabian Nights” again on getting home, it is good to have made this little voyage and seen these strange places and faces.
Then we went out through the arched lowering gateway106 of the town into the plain beyond, and that was another famous and brilliant scene of the “Arabian Nights.” The heaven shone with a marvellous brilliancy — the plain disappeared far in the haze107 — the towers and battlements of the town rose black against the sky — old outlandish trees rose up here and there — clumps108 of camels were couched in the rare herbage — dogs were baying about — groups of men lay sleeping under their haicks round about — round about the tall gates many lights were twinkling — and they brought us water-pipes and sherbet — and we wondered to think that London was only three weeks off.
Then came the night at the consul’s. The poor demure old gentleman brought out his mattresses109; and the ladies sleeping round on the divans, we lay down quite happy; and I for my part intended to make as delightful110 dreams as Alnaschar; but — lo, the delicate mosquito sounded his horn: the active flea111 jumped up, and came to feast on Christian112 flesh (the Eastern flea bites more bitterly than the most savage bug113 in Christendom), and the bug — oh, the accursed! Why was he made? What duty has that infamous114 ruffian to perform in the world, save to make people wretched? Only Bulwer in his most pathetic style could describe the miseries115 of that night — the moaning, the groaning116, the cursing, the tumbling, the blistering117, the infamous despair and degradation118! I heard all the cocks in Jaffa crow; the children crying, and the mothers hushing them; the donkeys braying119 fitfully in the moonlight; at last I heard the clatter of hoofs below, and the hailing of men. It was three o’clock, the horses were actually come; nay120, there were camels likewise; asses121 and mules, pack-saddles and drivers, all bustling together under the moonlight in the cheerful street — and the first night in Syria was over.
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1
marine
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| adj.海的；海生的；航海的；海事的；n.水兵 | |
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2
malady
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| n.病，疾病(通常做比喻) | |
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3
swell
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| vi.膨胀，肿胀；增长，增强 | |
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4
violation
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| n.违反(行为)，违背(行为)，侵犯 | |
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5
prospectus
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| n.计划书；说明书；慕股书 | |
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6
intervals
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| n.[军事]间隔( interval的名词复数 )；间隔时间；[数学]区间；（戏剧、电影或音乐会的）幕间休息 | |
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7
rattle
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| v.飞奔，碰响；激怒；n.碰撞声；拨浪鼓 | |
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8
considerably
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| adv.极大地；相当大地；在很大程度上 | |
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consuls
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| 领事( consul的名词复数 )； （古罗马共和国时期）执政官 （古罗马共和国及其军队的最高首长，同时共有两位，每年选举一次） | |
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consul
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| n.领事；执政官 | |
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flaring
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| a.火焰摇曳的，过份艳丽的 | |
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12
hospitable
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| adj.好客的；宽容的；有利的，适宜的 | |
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13
surmounted
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| 战胜( surmount的过去式和过去分词 )； 克服（困难）； 居于…之上； 在…顶上 | |
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14
minarets
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| n.（清真寺旁由报告祈祷时刻的人使用的）光塔( minaret的名词复数 ) | |
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15
countless
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| adj.无数的，多得不计其数的 | |
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16
whitewashed
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| 粉饰，美化，掩饰( whitewash的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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dome
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| n.圆屋顶，拱顶 | |
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domes
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| n.圆屋顶( dome的名词复数 )；像圆屋顶一样的东西；圆顶体育场 | |
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specks
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| n.眼镜；斑点，微粒，污点( speck的名词复数 ) | |
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20
behold
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| v.看，注视，看到 | |
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lieutenant
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| n.陆军中尉，海军上尉；代理官员，副职官员 | |
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seamen
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| n.海员 | |
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standing
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| n.持续，地位；adj.永久的，不动的，直立的，不流动的 | |
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24
oar
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| n.桨，橹，划手；v.划行 | |
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oars
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| n.桨，橹( oar的名词复数 )；划手v.划（行）( oar的第三人称单数 ) | |
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26
hideous
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| adj.丑陋的，可憎的，可怕的，恐怖的 | |
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brutes
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| 兽( brute的名词复数 )； 畜生； 残酷无情的人； 兽性 | |
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ledge
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| n.壁架，架状突出物；岩架，岩礁 | |
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29
swarming
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| 密集( swarm的现在分词 )； 云集； 成群地移动； 蜜蜂或其他飞行昆虫成群地飞来飞去 | |
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30
greasy
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| adj. 多脂的，油脂的 | |
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disposition
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| n.性情，性格；意向，倾向；排列，部署 | |
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savage
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| adj.野蛮的；凶恶的，残暴的；n.未开化的人 | |
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33
crammed
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| adj.塞满的，挤满的；大口地吃；快速贪婪地吃v.把…塞满；填入；临时抱佛脚( cram的过去式) | |
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34
abode
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| n.住处，住所 | |
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beads
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| n.（空心）小珠子( bead的名词复数 )；水珠；珠子项链 | |
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36
puffing
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| v.使喷出( puff的现在分词 )；喷着汽（或烟）移动；吹嘘；吹捧 | |
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puff
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| n.一口(气)；一阵(风)；v.喷气，喘气 | |
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38
domed
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| adj. 圆屋顶的, 半球形的, 拱曲的 动词dome的过去式和过去分词形式 | |
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39
chamber
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| n.房间，寝室；会议厅；议院；会所 | |
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virgin
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| n.处女，未婚女子；adj.未经使用的；未经开发的 | |
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41
fragrant
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| adj.芬香的，馥郁的，愉快的 | |
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42
amenities
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| n.令人愉快的事物；礼仪；礼节；便利设施；礼仪( amenity的名词复数 )；便利设施；（环境等的）舒适；（性情等的）愉快 | |
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43
consulate
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| n.领事馆 | |
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44
mere
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| adj.纯粹的；仅仅，只不过 | |
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45
abruptly
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| adv.突然地，出其不意地 | |
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46
labyrinth
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| n.迷宫；难解的事物；迷路 | |
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47
chambers
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| n.房间( chamber的名词复数 )；（议会的）议院；卧室；会议厅 | |
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48
ERECTED
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| adj. 直立的，竖立的，笔直的 vt. 使 ... 直立，建立 | |
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49
demure
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| adj.严肃的；端庄的 | |
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50
mace
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| n.狼牙棒，豆蔻干皮 | |
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51
den
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| n.兽穴；秘密地方；安静的小房间，私室 | |
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52
worthy
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| adj.(of)值得的，配得上的；有价值的 | |
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53
consular
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| a.领事的 | |
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54
miserable
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| adj.悲惨的，痛苦的；可怜的，糟糕的 | |
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55
scanty
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| adj.缺乏的，仅有的，节省的，狭小的，不够的 | |
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56
brag
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| v./n.吹牛，自夸；adj.第一流的 | |
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57
enjoining
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| v.命令( enjoin的现在分词 ) | |
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58
obsequious
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| adj.谄媚的，奉承的，顺从的 | |
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59
clatter
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| v./n.(使)发出连续而清脆的撞击声 | |
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60
hoofs
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| n.（兽的）蹄，马蹄( hoof的名词复数 )v.（兽的）蹄，马蹄( hoof的第三人称单数 ) | |
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61
determined
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| adj.坚定的；有决心的 | |
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62
shuffling
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| adj. 慢慢移动的, 滑移的 动词shuffle的现在分词形式 | |
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63
bamboozled
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| v.欺骗，使迷惑( bamboozle的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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64
rascal
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| n.流氓；不诚实的人 | |
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65
wrath
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| n.愤怒，愤慨，暴怒 | |
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66
clattering
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| 发出咔哒声（clatter的现在分词形式） | |
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67
divan
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| n.长沙发；（波斯或其他东方诗人的）诗集 | |
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majestic
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| adj.雄伟的，壮丽的，庄严的，威严的，崇高的 | |
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procured
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| v.（努力）取得， （设法）获得( procure的过去式和过去分词 )；拉皮条 | |
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piety
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| n.虔诚，虔敬 | |
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71
excellence
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| n.优秀，杰出，(pl.)优点，美德 | |
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72
wares
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| n. 货物, 商品 | |
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73
forth
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| adv.向前；向外，往外 | |
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74
dingy
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| adj.昏暗的，肮脏的 | |
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75
ragged
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| adj.衣衫褴褛的，粗糙的，刺耳的 | |
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bustling
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| adj.喧闹的 | |
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bustled
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| 闹哄哄地忙乱，奔忙( bustle的过去式和过去分词 )； 催促 | |
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78
musk
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| n.麝香, 能发出麝香的各种各样的植物，香猫 | |
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79
squatted
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| v.像动物一样蹲下( squat的过去式和过去分词 )；非法擅自占用（土地或房屋）；为获得其所有权；而占用某片公共用地。 | |
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80
divans
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| n.（可作床用的）矮沙发( divan的名词复数 )；（波斯或其他东方诗人的）诗集 | |
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81
countenance
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| n.脸色，面容；面部表情；vt.支持，赞同 | |
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82
beverage
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| n.(水，酒等之外的)饮料 | |
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teaspoonful
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| n.一茶匙的量；一茶匙容量 | |
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modicum
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| n.少量，一小份 | |
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85
sublime
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| adj.崇高的，伟大的；极度的，不顾后果的 | |
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86
spoke
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| n.（车轮的）辐条；轮辐；破坏某人的计划；阻挠某人的行动 v.讲，谈（speak的过去式）；说；演说；从某种观点来说 | |
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oratorical
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| adj.演说的，雄辩的 | |
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88
meek
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| adj.温顺的，逆来顺受的 | |
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89
complimentary
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| adj.赠送的，免费的，赞美的，恭维的 | |
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90
palaver
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| adj.壮丽堂皇的；n.废话，空话 | |
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haughtily
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| adv. 傲慢地, 高傲地 | |
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hoarsely
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| adv.嘶哑地 | |
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93
bazaar
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| n.集市，商店集中区 | |
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bazaars
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| （东方国家的）市场( bazaar的名词复数 )； 义卖； 义卖市场； （出售花哨商品等的）小商品市场 | |
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desolate
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| adj.荒凉的，荒芜的；孤独的，凄凉的；v.使荒芜，使孤寂 | |
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ennui
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| n.怠倦，无聊 | |
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absconded
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| v.（尤指逃避逮捕）潜逃，逃跑( abscond的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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retired
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| adj.隐退的，退休的，退役的 | |
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pounced
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| v.突然袭击( pounce的过去式和过去分词 )；猛扑；一眼看出；抓住机会（进行抨击） | |
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100
mules
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| 骡( mule的名词复数 )； 拖鞋； 顽固的人； 越境运毒者 | |
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101
sanctuary
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| n.圣所，圣堂，寺庙；禁猎区，保护区 | |
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102
slumbering
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| 微睡，睡眠（slumber的现在分词形式） | |
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103
squatting
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| v.像动物一样蹲下( squat的现在分词 )；非法擅自占用（土地或房屋）；为获得其所有权；而占用某片公共用地。 | |
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104
picketed
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| 用尖桩围住（picket的过去式与过去分词形式） | |
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105
broil
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| v.烤，烧，争吵，怒骂；n.烤，烧，争吵，怒骂 | |
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106
gateway
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| n.大门口，出入口，途径，方法 | |
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107
haze
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| n.霾，烟雾；懵懂，迷糊；vi.(over)变模糊 | |
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108
clumps
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| n.（树、灌木、植物等的）丛、簇( clump的名词复数 )；（土、泥等）团；块；笨重的脚步声v.（树、灌木、植物等的）丛、簇( clump的第三人称单数 )；（土、泥等）团；块；笨重的脚步声 | |
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109
mattresses
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| 褥垫，床垫( mattress的名词复数 ) | |
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110
delightful
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| adj.令人高兴的，使人快乐的 | |
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111
flea
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| n.跳蚤 | |
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112
Christian
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| adj.基督教徒的；n.基督教徒 | |
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113
bug
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| n.虫子；故障；窃听器；vt.纠缠；装窃听器 | |
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114
infamous
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| adj.声名狼藉的，臭名昭著的，邪恶的 | |
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115
miseries
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| n.痛苦( misery的名词复数 )；痛苦的事；穷困；常发牢骚的人 | |
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116
groaning
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| adj. 呜咽的, 呻吟的 动词groan的现在分词形式 | |
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117
blistering
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| adj.酷热的；猛烈的；使起疱的；可恶的v.起水疱；起气泡；使受暴晒n.[涂料] 起泡 | |
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118
degradation
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| n.降级；低落；退化；陵削；降解；衰变 | |
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119
braying
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| v.发出驴叫似的声音( bray的现在分词 )；发嘟嘟声；粗声粗气地讲话（或大笑）；猛击 | |
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120
nay
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| adv.不；n.反对票，投反对票者 | |
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121
asses
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| n. 驴，愚蠢的人，臀部 adv. (常用作后置)用于贬损或骂人 | |
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