The valleys of Aragua form a narrow basin between granitic1 and calcareous mountains of unequal height. On the north, they are separated by the Sierra Mariara from the sea-coast; and towards the south, the chain of Guacimo and Yusma serves them as a rampart against the heated air of the steppes. Groups of hills, high enough to determine the course of the waters, close this basin on the east and west like transverse dykes3. We find these hills between the Tuy and La Victoria, as well as on the road from Valencia to Nirgua, and at the mountains of Torito.* From this extraordinary configuration4 of the land, the little rivers of the valleys of Aragua form a peculiar5 system, and direct their course towards a basin closed on all sides. These rivers do not bear their waters to the ocean; they are collected in a lake; and subject to the peculiar influence of evaporation6, they lose themselves, if we may use the expression, in the atmosphere. On the existence of rivers and lakes, the fertility of the soil and the produce of cultivation7 in these valleys depend. The aspect of the spot, and the experience of half a century, have proved that the level of the waters is not invariable; the waste by evaporation, and the increase from the waters running into the lake, do not uninterruptedly balance each other. The lake being elevated one thousand feet above the neighbouring steppes of Calabozo, and one thousand three hundred and thirty-two feet above the level of the ocean, it has been suspected that there are subterranean8 communications and filtrations. The appearance of new islands, and the gradual retreat of the waters, have led to the belief that the lake may perhaps, in time, become entirely9 dry. An assemblage of physical circumstances so remarkable11 was well fitted to fix my attention on those valleys where the wild beauty of nature is embellished13 by agricultural industry, and the arts of rising civilization.
[* The lofty mountains of Los Teques, where the Tuy takes its source, may be looked upon as the eastern boundary of the valleys of Aragua. The level of the ground continues, in fact, to rise from La Victoria to the Hacienda de Tuy; but the river Tuy, turning southward in the direction of the sierras of Guairaima and Tiara has found an issue on the east; and it is more natural to consider as the limits of the basin of Aragua a line drawn14 through the sources of the streams flowing into the lake of Valencia. The charts and sections I have traced of the road from Caracas to Nueva Valencia, and from Porto Cabello to Villa15 de Cura, exhibit the whole of these geological relations.]
The lake of Valencia, called Tacarigua by the Indians, exceeds in magnitude the lake of Neufchatel in Switzerland; but its general form has more resemblance to the lake of Geneva, which is nearly at the same height above the level of the sea. As the slope of the ground in the valleys of Aragua tends towards the south and the west, that part of the basin still covered with water is the nearest to the southern chain of the mountains of Guigue, of Yusma, and of Guacimo, which stretch towards the high savannahs of Ocumare. The opposite banks of the lake of Valencia display a singular contrast; those on the south are desert, and almost uninhabited, and a screen of high mountains gives them a gloomy and monotonous16 aspect. The northern shore on the contrary, is cheerful, pastoral, and decked with the rich cultivation of the sugar-cane17, coffee-tree, and cotton. Paths bordered with cestrums, azedaracs, and other shrubs18 always in flower, cross the plain, and join the scattered20 farms. Every house is surrounded by clumps21 of trees. The ceiba with its large yellow flowers* gives a peculiar character to the landscape, mingling23 its branches with those of the purple erythrina. This mixture of vivid vegetable colours contrasts finely with the uniform tint24 of an unclouded sky. In the season of drought, where the burning soil is covered with an undulating vapour, artificial irrigations preserve verdure and promote fertility. Here and there the granite25 rock pierces through the cultivated ground. Enormous stony26 masses rise abruptly27 in the midst of the valley. Bare and forked, they nourish a few succulent plants, which prepare mould for future ages. Often on the summit of these lonely hills may be seen a fig-tree or a clusia with fleshy leaves, which has fixed29 its roots in the rock, and towers over the landscape. With their dead and withered30 branches, these trees look like signals erected31 on a steep cliff. The form of these mounts unfolds the secret of their ancient origin; for when the whole of this valley was filled with water, and the waves beat at the foot of the peaks of Mariara (the Devil’s Nook*) and the chain of the coast, these rocky hills were shoals or islets.
[* Carnes tollendas, Bombax hibiscifolius.]
[* El Rincon del Diablo.]
These features of a rich landscape, these contrasts between the two banks of the lake of Valencia, often reminded me of the Pays de Vaud, where the soil, everywhere cultivated, and everywhere fertile, offers the husbandman, the shepherd, and the vine-dresser, the secure fruit of their labours, while, on the opposite side, Chablais presents only a mountainous and half-desert country. In these distant climes surrounded by exotic productions, I loved to recall to mind the enchanting32 descriptions with which the aspect of the Leman lake and the rocks of La Meillerie inspired a great writer. Now, while in the centre of civilized33 Europe, I endeavour in my turn to paint the scenes of the New World, I do not imagine I present the reader with clearer images, or more precise ideas, by comparing our landscapes with those of the equinoctial regions. It cannot be too often repeated that nature, in every zone, whether wild or cultivated, smiling or majestic34, has an individual character. The impressions which she excites are infinitely35 varied36, like the emotions produced by works of genius, according to the age in which they were conceived, and the diversity of language from which they in part derive37 their charm. We must limit our comparisons merely to dimensions and external form. We may institute a parallel between the colossal39 summit of Mont Blanc and the Himalaya Mountains; the cascades41 of the Pyrenees and those of the Cordilleras: but these comparisons, useful with respect to science, fail to convey an idea of the characteristics of nature in the temperate42 and torrid zones. On the banks of a lake, in a vast forest, at the foot of summits covered with eternal snow, it is not the mere38 magnitude of the objects which excites our admiration43. That which speaks to the soul, which causes such profound and varied emotions, escapes our measurements as it does the forms of language. Those who feel powerfully the charms of nature cannot venture on comparing one with another, scenes totally different in character.
But it is not alone the picturesque44 beauties of the lake of Valencia that have given celebrity45 to its banks. This basin presents several other phenomena46, and suggests questions, the solution of which is interesting alike to physical science and to the well-being47 of the inhabitants. What are the causes of the diminution48 of the waters of the lake? Is this diminution more rapid now than in former ages? Can we presume that an equilibrium49 between the waters flowing in and the waters lost will be shortly re-established, or may we apprehend50 that the lake will entirely disappear?
According to astronomical51 observations made at La Victoria, Hacienda de Cura, Nueva Valencia, and Guigue, the length of the lake in its present state from Cagua to Guayos, is ten leagues, or twenty-eight thousand eight hundred toises. Its breadth is very unequal. If we judge from the latitudes53 of the mouth of the Rio Cura and the village of Guigue, it nowhere surpasses 2.3 leagues, or six thousand five hundred toises; most commonly it is but four or five miles. The dimensions, as deduced from my observations are much less than those hitherto adopted by the natives. It might be thought that, to form a precise idea of the progressive diminution of the waters, it would be sufficient to compare the present dimensions of the lake with those attributed to it by ancient chroniclers; by Oviedo for instance, in his History of the Province of Venezuela, published about the year 1723. This writer in his emphatic55 style, assigns to “this inland sea, this monstruoso cuerpo de la laguna de Valencia”*, fourteen leagues in length and six in breadth. He affirms that at a small distance from the shore the lead finds no bottom; and that large floating islands cover the surface of the waters, which are constantly agitated56 by the winds. No importance can be attached to estimates which, without being founded on any measurement, are expressed in leagues (leguas) reckoned in the colonies at three thousand, five thousand, and six thousand six hundred and fifty varas.* Oviedo, who must so often have passed over the valleys of Aragua, asserts that the town of Nueva Valencia del Rey was built in 1555, at the distance of half a league from the lake; and that the proportion between the length of the lake and its breadth, is as seven to three. At present, the town of Valencia is separated from the lake by level ground of more than two thousand seven hundred toises (which Oviedo would no doubt have estimated as a space of a league and a half); and the length of the basin of the lake is to its breadth as 10 to 2.3, or as 7 to 1.6. The appearance of the soil between Valencia and Guigue, the little hills rising abruptly in the plain east of the Cano de Cambury, some of which (el Islote and la Isla de la Negra or Caratapona) have even preserved the name of islands, sufficiently57 prove that the waters have retired58 considerably59 since the time of Oviedo. With respect to the change in the general form of the lake, it appears to me improbable that in the seventeenth century its breadth was nearly the half of its length. The situation of the granite mountains of Mariara and of Guigue, the slope of the ground which rises more rapidly towards the north and south than towards the east and west, are alike repugnant to this supposition.
[* “Enormous body of the lake of Valencia.”]
[* Seamen60 being the first, and for a long time the only, persons who introduced into the Spanish colonies any precise ideas on the astronomical position and distances of places, the legua nautica of 6650 varas, or of 2854 toises (20 in a degree), was originally used in Mexico and throughout South America; but this legua nautica has been gradually reduced to one-half or one-third, on account of the slowness of travelling across steep mountains, or dry and burning plains. The common people measure only time directly; and then, by arbitrary hypotheses, infer from the time the space of ground travelled over. In the course of my geographical61 researches, I have had frequent opportunities of examining the real value of these leagues, by comparing the itinerary62 distances between points lying under the same meridian63 with the difference of latitudes.]
In treating the long-discussed question of the diminution of the waters, I conceive we must distinguish between the different periods at which the sinking of their level has taken place. Wherever we examine the valleys of rivers, or the basins of lakes, we see the ancient shore at great distances. No doubt seems now to be entertained, that our rivers and lakes have undergone immense diminutions; but many geological facts remind us also, that these great changes in the distribution of the waters have preceded all historical times; and that for many thousand years most lakes have attained64 a permanent equilibrium between the produce of the water flowing in, and that of evaporation and filtration. Whenever we find this equilibrium broken, it will be well rather to examine whether the rupture66 be not owing to causes merely local, and of very recent date, than to admit an uninterrupted diminution of the water. This reasoning is conformable to the more circumspect67 method of modern science. At a time when the physical history of the world, traced by the genius of some eloquent68 writers, borrowed all its charms from the fictions of imagination, the phenomenon of which we are treating would have been adduced as a new proof of the contrast these writers sought to establish between the two continents. To demonstrate that America rose later than Asia and Europe from the bosom69 of the waters, the lake of Tacarigua would have been described as one of those interior basins which have not yet become dry by the effects of slow and gradual evaporation. I have no doubt that, in very remote times, the whole valley, from the foot of the mountains of Cocuyza to those of Torito and Nirgua, and from La Sierra de Mariara to the chain of Guigue, of Guacimo, and La Palma, was filled with water. Everywhere the form of the promontories70, and their steep declivities, seem to indicate the shore of an alpine71 lake, similar to those of Styria and Tyrol. The same little helicites, the same valvatae, which now live in the lake of Valencia, are found in layers of three or four feet thick as far inland as Turmero and La Concesion near La Victoria. These facts undoubtedly72 prove a retreat of the waters; but nothing indicates that this retreat has continued from a very remote period to our days. The valleys of Aragua are among the portions of Venezuela most anciently peopled; and yet there is no mention in Oviedo, or any other old chronicler, of a sensible diminution of the lake. Must we suppose, that this phenomenon escaped their observation, at a time when the Indians far exceeded the white population, and when the banks of the lake were less inhabited? Within half a century, and particularly within these thirty years, the natural desiccation of this great basin has excited general attention. We find vast tracts73 of land which were formerly75 inundated76, now dry, and already cultivated with plantains, sugar-canes77, or cotton. Wherever a hut is erected on the bank of the lake, we see the shore receding78 from year to year. We discover islands, which, in consequence of the retreat of the waters, are just beginning to be joined to the continent, as for instance the rocky island of Culebra, in the direction of Guigue; other islands already form promontories, as the Morro, between Guigue and Nueva Valencia, and La Cabrera, south-east of Mariara; others again are now rising in the islands themselves like scattered hills. Among these last, so easily recognised at a distance, some are only a quarter of a mile, others a league from the present shore. I may cite as the most remarkable three granite islands, thirty or forty toises high, on the road from the Hacienda de Cura to Aguas Calientes; and at the western extremity79 of the lake, the Serrito de Don Pedro, Islote, and Caratapona. On visiting two islands entirely surrounded by water, we found in the midst of brushwood, on small flats (four, six, and even eight toises height above the surface of the lake,) fine sand mixed with helicites, anciently deposited by the waters. (Isla de Cura and Cabo Blanco. The promontory80 of Cabrera has been connected with the shore ever since the year 1750 or 1760 by a little valley, which bears the name of Portachuelo.) In each of these islands may be perceived the most certain traces of the gradual sinking of the waters. But still farther (and this accident is regarded by the inhabitants as a marvellous phenomenon) in 1796 three new islands appeared to the east of the island Caiguira, in the same direction as the islands Burro, Otama, and Zorro. These new islands, called by the people Los nuevos Penones, or Los Aparecidos,* form a kind of banks with surfaces quite flat. They rose, in 1800, more than a foot above the mean level of the water.
[* Los Nuevos Penones, the New Rocks. Los Aparecidos, the Unexpectedly-appeared.]
It has already been observed that the lake of Valencia, like the lakes of the valley of Mexico, forms the centre of a little system of rivers, none of which have any communication with the ocean. These rivers, most of which deserve only the name of torrents81, or brooks,* are twelve or fourteen in number. The inhabitants, little acquainted with the effects of evaporation, have long imagined that the lake has a subterranean outlet83, by which a quantity of water runs out equal to that which flows in by the rivers. Some suppose that this outlet communicates with grottos84, supposed to be at great depth; others believe that the water flows through an oblique85 channel into the basin of the ocean. These bold hypotheses on the communication between two neighbouring basins have presented themselves in every zone to the imagination of the ignorant, as well as to that of the learned; for the latter, without confessing it, sometimes repeat popular opinions in scientific language. We hear of subterranean gulfs and outlets87 in the New World, as on the shores of the Caspian sea, though the lake of Tacarigua is two hundred and twenty-two toises higher, and the Caspian sea fifty-four toises lower, than the sea; and though it is well known, that fluids find the same level, when they communicate by a lateral88 channel.
[* The following are their names: Rios de Aragua, Turmero, Maracay, Tapatapa, Agnes Calientes, Mariara, Cura, Guacara, Guataparo, Valencia, Cano Grande de Cambury, etc.]
The changes which the destruction of forests, the clearing of plains, and the cultivation of indigo89, have produced within half a century in the quantity of water flowing in on the one hand, and on the other the evaporation of the soil, and the dryness of the atmosphere, present causes sufficiently powerful to explain the progressive diminution of the lake of Valencia. I cannot concur90 in the opinion of M. Depons* (who visited these countries since I was there) “that to set the mind at rest, and for the honour of science,” a subterranean issue must be admitted. By felling the trees which cover the tops and the sides of mountains, men in every climate prepare at once two calamities91 for future generations; want of fuel and scarcity92 of water. Trees, by the nature of their perspiration93, and the radiation from their leaves in a sky without clouds, surround themselves with an atmosphere constantly cold and misty94. They affect the copiousness95 of springs, not, as was long believed, by a peculiar attraction for the vapours diffused96 through the air, but because, by sheltering the soil from the direct action of the sun, they diminish the evaporation of water produced by rain. When forests are destroyed, as they are everywhere in America by the European planters, with imprudent precipitancy, the springs are entirely dried up, or become less abundant. The beds of the rivers, remaining dry during a part of the year, are converted into torrents whenever great rains fall on the heights. As the sward and moss98 disappear with the brushwood from the sides of the mountains, the waters falling in rain are no longer impeded99 in their course; and instead of slowly augmenting101 the level of the rivers by progressive filtrations, they furrow102, during heavy showers, the sides of the hills, bearing down the loosened soil, and forming sudden and destructive inundations. Hence it results, that the clearing of forests, the want of permanent springs, and the existence of torrents, are three phenomena closely connected together. Countries situated103 in opposite hemispheres, as, for example, Lombardy bordered by the Alps, and Lower Peru inclosed between the Pacific and the Cordillera of the Andes, afford striking proofs of the justness of this assertion.
[* In his Voyage a la Terre Ferme M. Depons says, “The small extent of the surface of the lake renders impossible the supposition that evaporation alone, however considerable within the tropics, could remove as much water as the rivers furnish.” In the sequel, the author himself seems to abandon what he terms “this occult case, the hypothesis of an aperture104.”]
Till the middle of the last century, the mountains round the valleys of Aragua were covered with forests. Great trees of the families of mimosa, ceiba, and the fig-tree, shaded and spread coolness along the banks of the lake. The plain, then thinly inhabited, was filled with brushwood, interspersed105 with trunks of scattered trees and parasite106 plants, enveloped107 with a thick sward, less capable of emitting radiant caloric than the soil that is cultivated and consequently not sheltered from the rays of the sun. With the destruction of the trees, and the increase of the cultivation of sugar, indigo, and cotton, the springs, and all the natural supplies of the lake of Valencia, have diminished from year to year. It is difficult to form a just idea of the enormous quantity of evaporation which takes place under the torrid zone, in a valley surrounded with steep declivities, where a regular breeze and descending109 currents of air are felt towards evening, and the bottom of which is flat, and looks as if levelled by the waters. It has been remarked, that the heat which prevails throughout the year at Cura, Guacara, Nueva Valencia, and on the borders of the lake, is the same as that felt at midsummer in Naples and Sicily. The mean annual temperature of the valleys of Aragua is nearly 25.5°; my hygrometrical observations of the month of February, taking the mean of day and night, gave 71.4° of the hair hygrometer. As the words great drought and great humidity have no determinate signification, and air that would be called very dry in the lower regions of the tropics would be regarded as humid in Europe, we can judge of these relations between climates only by comparing spots situated in the same zone. Now at Cumana, where it sometimes does not rain during a whole year, and where I had the means of collecting a great number of hygrometric observations made at different hours of the day and night, the mean humidity of the air is 86°; corresponding to the mean temperature of 27.7°. Taking into account the influence of the rainy months, that is to say, estimating the difference observed in other parts of South America between the mean humidity of the dry months and that of the whole year; an annual mean humidity is obtained, for the valleys of Aragua, at farthest of 74°, the temperature being 25.5°. In this air, so hot, and at the same time so little humid, the quantity of water evaporated is enormous. The theory of Dalton estimates, under the conditions just stated, for the thickness of the sheet of water evaporated in an hour’s time, 0.36 mill., or 3.8 lines in twenty-four hours. Assuming for the temperate zone, for instance at Paris, the mean temperature to be 10.6°, and the mean humidity 82°, we find, according to the same formulae, 0.10 mill., an hour, and 1 line for twenty-four hours. If we prefer substituting for the uncertainty110 of these theoretical deductions111 the direct results of observation, we may recollect112 that in Paris, and at Montmorency, the mean annual evaporation was found by Sedileau and Cotte, to be from 32 in. 1 line to 38 in. 4 lines. Two able engineers in the south of France, Messrs. Clausade and Pin, found, that in subtracting the effects of filtrations, the waters of the canal of Languedoc, and the basin of Saint Ferreol lose every year from 0.758 met. to 0.812 met., or from 336 to 360 lines. M. de Prony found nearly similar results in the Pontine marshes113. The whole of these experiments, made in the latitudes of 41 and 49°, and at 10.5 and 16° of mean temperature, indicate a mean evaporation of one line, or one and three-tenths a day. In the torrid zone, in the West India Islands for instance, the effect of evaporation is three times as much, according to Le Gaux, and double according to Cassan. At Cumana, in a place where the atmosphere is far more loaded with humidity than in the valley of Aragua, I have often seen evaporate during twelve hours, in the sun, 8.8 mill., in the shade 3.4 mill.; and I believe, that the annual produce of evaporation in the rivers near Cumana is not less than one hundred and thirty inches. Experiments of this kind are extremely delicate, but what I have stated will suffice to demonstrate how great must be the quantity of vapour that rises from the lake of Valencia, and from the surrounding country, the waters of which flow into the lake. I shall have occasion elsewhere to resume this subject; for, in a work which displays the great laws of nature in different zones, we must endeavour to solve the problem of the mean tension of the vapours contained in the atmosphere in different latitudes, and at different heights above the surface of the ocean.
A great number of local circumstances cause the produce of evaporation to vary; it changes in proportion as more or less shade covers the basin of the waters, with their state of motion or repose114, with their depth, and the nature and colour of their bottom; but in general evaporation depends only on three circumstances, the temperature, the tension of the vapours contained in the atmosphere, and the resistance which the air, more or less dense115, more or less agitated, opposes to the diffusion116 of vapour. The quantity of water that evaporates in a given spot, everything else being equal, is proportionate to the difference between the quantity of vapour which the ambient air can contain when saturated117, and the quantity which it actually contains. Hence it follows that the evaporation is not so great in the torrid zone as might be expected from the enormous augmentation of temperature; because, in those ardent118 climates, the air is habitually120 very humid.
Since the increase of agricultural industry in the valleys of Aragua, the little rivers which run into the lake of Valencia can no longer be regarded as positive supplies during the six months succeeding December. They remain dried up in the lower part of their course, because the planters of indigo, coffee, and sugar-canes, have made frequent drainings (azequias), in order to water the ground by trenches121. We may observe also, that a pretty considerable river, the Rio Pao, which rises at the entrance of the Llanos, at the foot of the range of hills called La Galera, heretofore mingled123 its waters with those of the lake, by uniting with the Cano de Cambury, on the road from the town of Nueva Valencia to Guigue. The course of this river was from south to north. At the end of the seventeenth century, the proprietor124 of a neighbouring plantation125 dug at the back of the hill a new bed for the Rio Pao. He turned the river; and, after having employed part of the water for the irrigation of his fields, he caused the rest to flow at a venture southward, following the declivity126 of the Llanos. In this new southern direction the Rio Pao, mingled with three other rivers, the Tinaco, the Guanarito, and the Chilua, falls into the Portuguesa, which is a branch of the Apure. It is a remarkable phenomenon, that by a particular position of the ground, and the lowering of the ridge127 of division to south-west, the Rio Pao separates itself from the little system of interior rivers to which it originally belonged, and for a century past has communicated, through the channel of the Apure and the Orinoco, with the ocean. What has been here effected on a small scale by the hand of man, nature often performs, either by progressively elevating the level of the soil, or by those falls of the ground occasioned by violent earthquakes. It is probable, that in the lapse128 of ages, several rivers of Soudan, and of New Holland, which are now lost in the sands, or in inland basins, will open for themselves a course to the shores of the ocean. We cannot at least doubt, that in both continents there are systems of interior rivers, which may be considered as not entirely developed; and which communicate with each other, either in the time of great risings, or by permanent bifurcations.
The Rio Pao has scooped129 itself out a bed so deep and broad, that in the season of rains, when the Cano Grande de Cambury inundates130 all the land to the north-west of Guigue, the waters of this Cano, and those of the lake of Valencia, flow back into the Rio Pao itself; so that this river, instead of adding water to the lake, tends rather to carry it away. We see something similar in North America, where geographers131 have represented on their maps an imaginary chain of mountains, between the great lakes of Canada and the country of the Miamis. At the time of floods, the waters flowing into the lakes communicate with those which run into the Mississippi; and it is practicable to proceed by boats from the sources of the river St. Mary to the Wabash, as well as from the Chicago to the Illinois. These analogous132 facts appear to me well worthy133 of the attention of hydrographers.
The land that surrounds the lake of Valencia being entirely flat and even, a diminution of a few inches in the level of the water exposes to view a vast extent of ground covered with fertile mud and organic remains134.* In proportion as the lake retires, cultivation advances towards the new shore. These natural desiccations, so important to agriculture, have been considerable during the last ten years, in which America has suffered from great droughts. Instead of marking the sinuosities of the present banks of the lake, I have advised the rich landholders in these countries to fix columns of granite in the basin itself, in order to observe from year to year the mean height of the waters. The Marquis del Toro has undertaken to put this design into execution, employing the fine granite of the Sierra de Mariara, and establishing limnometers, on a bottom of gneiss rock, so common in the lake of Valencia.
[* This I observed daily in the Lake of Mexico.]
It is impossible to anticipate the limits, more or less narrow, to which this basin of water will one day be confined, when an equilibrium between the streams flowing in and the produce of evaporation and filtration, shall be completely established. The idea very generally spread, that the lake will soon entirely disappear, seems to me chimerical135. If in consequence of great earthquakes, or other causes equally mysterious, ten very humid years should succeed to long droughts; if the mountains should again become clothed with forests, and great trees overshadow the shore and the plains of Aragua, we should more probably see the volume of the waters augment100, and menace that beautiful cultivation which now trenches on the basin of the lake.
While some of the cultivators of the valleys of Aragua fear the total disappearance137 of the lake, and others its return to the banks it has deserted138, we hear the question gravely discussed at Caracas, whether it would not be advisable, in order to give greater extent to agriculture, to conduct the waters of the lake into the Llanos, by digging a canal towards the Rio Pao. The possibility* of this enterprise cannot be denied, particularly by having recourse to tunnels, or subterranean canals. (The dividing ridge, namely, that which divides the waters between the valleys of Aragua and the Llanos, lowers so much towards the west of Guigue, as we have already observed, that there are ravines which conduct the waters of the Cano de Cambury, the Rio Valencia, and the Guataparo, in the time of floods, to the Rio Pao; but it would be easier to open a navigable canal from the lake of Valencia to the Orinoco, by the Pao, the Portuguesa, and the Apure, than to dig a draining canal level with the bottom of the lake. This bottom, according to the sounding, and my barometric139 measurements, is 40 toises less than 222, or 182 above the surface of the ocean. On the road from Guigue to the Llanos, by the table-land of La Villa de Cura, I found, to the south of the dividing ridge, and on its southern declivity, no point of level corresponding to the 182 toises, except near San Juan. The absolute height of this village is 194 toises. But, I repeat that, farther towards the west, in the country between the Cano de Cambury and the sources of the Rio Pao, which I was not able to visit, the point of level of the bottom of the lake is much further north.) The progressive retreat of the waters has given birth to the beautiful and luxuriant plains of Maracay, Cura, Mocundo, Guigue, and Santa Cruz del Escoval, planted with tobacco, sugar-canes, coffee, indigo, and cacao; but how can it be doubted for a moment that the lake alone spreads fertility over this country? If deprived of the enormous mass of vapour which the surface of the waters sends forth140 daily into the atmosphere, the valleys of Aragua would become as dry and barren as the surrounding mountains.
The mean depth of the lake is from twelve to fifteen fathoms141; the deepest parts are not, as is generally admitted, eighty, but thirty-five or forty deep. Such is the result of soundings made with the greatest care by Don Antonio Manzano. When we reflect on the vast depths of all the lakes of Switzerland, which, notwithstanding their position in high valleys, almost reach the level of the Mediterranean142, it appears surprising that greater cavities are not found at the bottom of the lake of Valencia, which is also an Alpine lake. The deepest places are between the rocky island of Burro and the point of Cana Fistula, and opposite the high mountains of Mariara. But in general the southern part of the lake is deeper than the northern: nor must we forget that, if all the shores be now low, the southern part of the basin is the nearest to a chain of mountains with abrupt28 declivities; and we know that even the sea is generally deepest where the coast is elevated, rocky, or perpendicular143.
The temperature of the lake at the surface during my abode144 in the valleys of Aragua, in the month of February, was constantly from 23 to 23.7°, consequently a little below the mean temperature of the air. This may be from the effect of evaporation, which carries off caloric from the air and the water; or because a great mass of water does not follow with an equal rapidity the changes in the temperature of the atmosphere, and the lake receives streams which rise from several cold springs in the neighbouring mountains. I have to regret that, notwithstanding its small depth, I could not determine the temperature of the water at thirty or forty fathoms. I was not provided with the thermometrical sounding apparatus145 which I had used in the Alpine lakes of Salzburg, and in the Caribbean Sea. The experiments of Saussure prove that, on both sides of the Alps, the lakes which are from one hundred and ninety to two hundred and seventy-four toises of absolute elevation* have, in the middle of winter, at nine hundred, at six hundred, and sometimes even at one hundred and fifty feet of depth, a uniform temperature from 4.3 to 6°: but these experiments have not yet been repeated in lakes situated under the torrid zone. The strata146 of cold water in Switzerland are of an enormous thickness. They have been found so near the surface in the lakes of Geneva and Bienne, that the decrement of heat in the water was one centesimal degree for ten or fifteen feet; that is to say, eight times more rapid than in the ocean, and forty-eight times more rapid than in the atmosphere. In the temperate zone, where the heat of the atmosphere sinks to the freezing point, and far lower, the bottom of a lake, even were it not surrounded by glaciers147 and mountains covered with eternal snow, must contain particles of water which, having during winter acquired at the surface the maximum of their density148, between 3.4 and 4.4°, have consequently fallen to the greatest depth. Other particles, the temperature of which is +0.5°, far from placing themselves below the stratum149 at 4°, can only find their hydrostatic equilibrium above that stratum. They will descend108 lower only when their temperature is augmented150 3 or 4° by the contact of strata less cold. If water in cooling continued to condense uniformly to the freezing point, there would be found, in very deep lakes and basins having no communication with each other (whatever the latitude54 of the place), a stratum of water, the temperature of which would be nearly equal to the maximum of refrigeration above the freezing point, which the lower regions of the ambient atmosphere annually151 attain65. Hence it is probable, that, in the plains of the torrid zone, or in the valleys but little elevated, the mean heat of which is from 25.5 to 27°, the temperature of the bottom of the lakes can never be below 21 or 22°. If in the same zone the ocean contain at depths of seven or eight hundred fathoms, water the temperature of which is at 7°, that is to say, twelve or thirteen degrees colder than the maximum of the heat* of the equinoctial atmosphere over the sea, I think it must be considered as a direct proof of a submarine current, carrying the waters of the pole towards the equator. We will not here solve the delicate problem, as to the manner in which, within the tropics and in the temperate zone, (for example, in the Caribbean Sea and in the lakes of Switzerland,) these inferior strata of water, cooled to 4 or 7°, act upon the temperature of the stony strata of the globe which they cover; and how these same strata, the primitive152 temperature of which is, within the tropics, 27°, and at the lake of Geneva 10°, react upon the half-frozen waters at the bottom of the lakes, and of the equinoctial ocean. These questions are of the highest importance, both with regard to the economy of animals that live habitually at the bottom of fresh and salt waters, and to the theory of the distribution of heat in lands surrounded by vast and deep seas.
[* This is the difference between the absolute elevations153 of the lakes of Geneva and Thun.]
[* It is almost superfluous154 to observe that I am considering here only that part of the atmosphere lying on the ocean between 10° north and 10° south latitude. Towards the northern limits of the torrid zone, in latitude 23°, whither the north winds bring with an extreme rapidity the cold air of Canada, the thermometer falls at sea as low as 16°, and even lower.]
The lake of Valencia is full of islands, which embellish12 the scenery by the picturesque form of their rocks, and the beauty of the vegetation with which they are covered: an advantage which this tropical lake possesses over those of the Alps. The islands are fifteen in number, distributed in three groups;* without reckoning Morro and Cabrera, which are already joined to the shore. They are partly cultivated, and extremely fertile on account of the vapours that rise from the lake. Burro, the largest of these islands, is two miles in length, and is inhabited by some families of mestizos, who rear goats. These simple people seldom visit the shore of Mocundo. To them the lake appears of immense extent; they have plantains, cassava, milk, and a little fish. A hut constructed of reeds; hammocks woven from the cotton which the neighbouring fields produce; a large stone on which the fire is made; the ligneous155 fruit of the tutuma (the calabash) in which they draw water, constitute their domestic establishment. An old mestizo who offered us some goat’s milk had a beautiful daughter. We learned from our guide, that solitude156 had rendered him as mistrustful as he might perhaps have been made by the society of men. The day before our arrival, some hunters had visited the island. They were overtaken by the shades of night; and preferred sleeping in the open air to returning to Mocundo. This news spread alarm throughout the island. The father obliged the young girl to climb up a very lofty zamang or acacia, which grew in the plain at some distance from the hut, while he stretched himself at the foot of the tree, and did not permit his daughter to descend till the hunters had departed.
[* The position of these islands is as follows: northward157, near the shore, the Isla de Cura; on the south-east, Burro, Horno, Otama, Sorro, Caiguira, Nuevos Penones, or the Aparecidos; on the north-west, Cabo Blanco, or Isla de Aves, and Chamberg; on the south-west, Brucha and Culebra. In the centre of the lake rise, like shoals or small detached rocks, Vagre, Fraile, Penasco, and Pan de Azucar.]
The lake is in general well stocked with fish; though it furnishes only three kinds, the flesh of which is soft and insipid158, the guavina, the vagre, and the sardina. The two last descend into the lake with the streams that flow into it. The guavina, of which I made a drawing on the spot, is 20 inches long and 3.5 broad. It is perhaps a new species of the genus erythrina of Gronovius. It has large silvery scales edged with green. This fish is extremely voracious159, and destroys other kinds. The fishermen assured us that a small crocodile, the bava,* which often approached us when we were bathing, contributes also to the destruction of the fish. We never could succeed in procuring160 this reptile161 so as to examine it closely: it generally attains162 only three or four feet in length. It is said to be very harmless; its habits however, as well as its form, much resemble those of the alligator163 (Crocodilus acutus). It swims in such a manner as to show only the point of its snout, and the extremity of its tail; and places itself at mid-day on the bare beach. It is certainly neither a monitor (the real monitors living only in the old continent,) nor the sauvegarde of Seba (Lacerta teguixin,) which dives and does not swim. It is somewhat remarkable that the lake of Valencia, and the whole system of small rivers flowing into it, have no large alligators164, though this dangerous animal abounds165 a few leagues off in the streams which flow either into the Apure or the Orinoco, or immediately into the Caribbean Sea between Porto Cabello and La Guayra.
[* The bava, or bavilla, is very common at Bordones, near Cumana. See volume 1. The name of bava, baveuse, has misled M. Depons; he takes this reptile for a fish of our seas, the Blennius pholis. Voyage a la Terre Ferme. The Blennius pholis, smooth blenny, is called by the French baveuse (slaverer), in Spanish, baba.]
In the islands that rise like bastions in the midst of the waters, and wherever the rocky bottom of the lake is visible, I recognised a uniform direction in the strata of gneiss. This direction is nearly that of the chains of mountains on the north and south of the lake. In the hills of Cabo Blanco there are found among the gneiss, angular masses of opaque167 quartz168, slightly translucid on the edges, and varying from grey to deep black. This quartz passes sometimes into hornstein, and sometimes into kieselschiefer (schistose jasper). I do not think it constitutes a vein169. The waters of the lake* decompose170 the gneiss by erosion in a very extraordinary manner.
[* The water of the lake is not salt, as is asserted at Caracas. It may be drunk without being filtered. On evaporation it leaves a very small residuum of carbonate of lime, and perhaps a little nitrate of potash. It is surprising that an inland lake should not be richer in alkaline and earthy salts, acquired from the neighbouring soils. I have found parts of it porous171, almost cellular172, and split in the form of cauliflowers, fixed on gneiss perfectly173 compact. Perhaps the action ceases with the movement of the waves, and the alternate contact of air and water.]
The island of Chamberg is remarkable for its height. It is a rock of gneiss, with two summits in the form of a saddle, and raised two hundred feet above the surface of the water. The slope of this rock is barren, and affords only nourishment174 for a few plants of clusia with large white flowers. But the view of the lake and of the richly cultivated neighbouring valleys is beautiful, and their aspect is wonderful after sunset, when thousands of aquatic175 birds, herons, flamingoes, and wild ducks cross the lake to roost in the islands, and the broad zone of mountains which surrounds the horizon is covered with fire. The inhabitants, as we have already mentioned, burn the meadows in order to produce fresher and finer grass. Gramineous plants abound166, especially at the summit of the chain; and those vast conflagrations176 extend sometimes the length of a thousand toises, and appear like streams of lava177 overflowing178 the ridge of the mountains. When reposing179 on the banks of the lake to enjoy the soft freshness of the air in one of those beautiful evenings peculiar to the tropics, it is delightful180 to contemplate181 in the waves as they beat the shore, the reflection of the red fires that illumine the horizon.
Among the plants which grow on the rocky islands of the lake of Valencia, many have been believed to be peculiar to those spots, because till now they have not been discovered elsewhere. Such are the papaw-trees of the lake; and the tomato* of the island of Cura. The latter differs from our Solanum lycopersicum; the fruit is round and small, but has a fine flavour; it is now cultivated at La Victoria, at Nueva Valencia, and everywhere in the valleys of Aragua. The papaw-tree of the lake (papaya de la laguna) abounds also in the island of Cura and at Cabo Blanco; its trunk shoots higher than that of the common papaw (Carica papaya), but its fruit is only half as large, perfectly spherical182, without projecting ribs183, and four or five inches in diameter. When cut open it is found quite filled with seeds, and without those hollow places which occur constantly in the common papaw. The taste of this fruit, of which I have often eaten, is extremely sweet.* I know not whether it be a variety of the Carica microcarpa, described by Jacquin.
[* The tomatoes are cultivated, as well as the papaw-tree of the lake, in the Botanical Garden of Berlin, to which I had sent some seeds.]
[* The people of the country attribute to it an astringent184 quality, and call it tapaculo.]
The environs of the lake are insalubrious only in times of great drought, when the waters in their retreat leave a muddy sediment185 exposed to the rays of the sun. The banks, shaded by tufts of Coccoloba barbadensis, and decorated with fine liliaceous plants,* remind us, by the appearance of the aquatic vegetation, of the marshy186 shores of our lakes in Europe. We find there, pondweed (potamogeton), chara, and cats’-tail three feet high, which it is difficult not to confound with the Typha angustifolia of our marshes. It is only after a careful examination, that we recognise each of these plants for distinct species,* peculiar to the new continent. How many plants of the straits of Magellan, of Chile, and the Cordilleras of Quito have formerly been confounded with the productions of the northern temperate zone, owing to their analogy in form and appearance.
[* Pancratium undulatum, Amaryllis nervosa.]
[* Potamogeton tenuifolium, Chara compressa, Typha tenuifolia.]
The inhabitants of the valleys of Aragua often inquire why the southern shore of the lake, particularly the south-west part towards los Aguacotis, is generally more shaded, and exhibits fresher verdure than the northern side. We saw, in the month of February, many trees stripped of their foliage187, near the Hacienda de Cura, at Mocundo, and at Guacara; while to the south-east of Valencia everything presaged188 the approach of the rains. I believe that in the early part of the year, when the sun has southern declination, the hills around Valencia, Guacara, and Cura are scorched189 by the heat of the solar rays, while the southern shore receives, along with the breeze when it enters the valley by the Abra de Porto Cabello, an atmosphere which has crossed the lake, and is loaded with aqueous vapour. On this southern shore, near Guaruto, are situated the finest plantations190 of tobacco in the whole province.
Among the rivers flowing into the lake of Valencia some owe their origin to thermal191 springs, and deserve particular attention. These springs gush192 out at three points of the granitic Cordillera of the coast; near Onoto, between Turmero and Maracay; near Mariara, north-east of the Hacienda de Cura; and near Las Trincheras, on the road from Nueva Valencia to Porto Cabello. I could examine with care only the physical and geological relations of the thermal waters of Mariara and Las Trincheras. In going up the small river Cura towards its source, the mountains of Mariara are seen advancing into the plain in the form of a vast amphitheatre, composed of perpendicular rocks, crowned by peaks with rugged193 summits. The central point of the amphitheatre bears the strange name of the Devil’s Nook (Rincon del Diablo). The range stretching to the east is called El Chaparro; that to the west, Las Viruelas. These ruin-like rocks command the plain; they are composed of a coarse-grained granite, nearly porphyritic, the yellowish white feldspar crystals of which are more than an inch and a half long. Mica52 is rare in them, and is of a fine silvery lustre194. Nothing can be more picturesque and solemn than the aspect of this group of mountains, half covered with vegetation. The Peak of Calavera, which unites the Rincon del Diablo to the Chaparro, is visible from afar. In it the granite is separated by perpendicular fissures195 into prismatic masses. It would seem as if the primitive rock were crowned with columns of basalt. In the rainy season, a considerable sheet of water rushes down like a cascade40 from these cliffs. The mountains connected on the east with the Rincon del Diablo, are much less lofty, and contain, like the promontory of La Cabrera, and the little detached hills in the plain, gneiss and mica-slate196, including garnets.
In these lower mountains, two or three miles north-east of Mariara, we find the ravine of hot waters called Quebrada de Aguas Calientes. This ravine, running north-west 75°, contains several small basins. Of these the two uppermost, which have no communication with each other, are only eight inches in diameter; the three lower, from two to three feet. Their depth varies from three to fifteen inches. The temperature of these different funnels198 (pozos) is from 56 to 59°; and what is remarkable, the lower funnels are hotter than the upper, though the difference of the level is only seven or eight inches. The hot waters, collected together, form a little rivulet199, called the Rio de Aguas Calientes, which, thirty feet lower, has a temperature of only 48°. In seasons of great drought, the time at which we visited the ravine, the whole body of the thermal waters forms a section of only twenty-six square inches. This is considerably augmented in the rainy season; the rivulet is then transformed into a torrent82, and its heat diminishes for it appears that the hot springs themselves are subject only to imperceptible variations. All these springs are slightly impregnated with sulphuretted hydrogen gas. The fetid smell, peculiar to this gas, can be perceived only by approaching very near the springs. In one of these wells only, the temperature of which is 56.2°, bubbles of air are evolved at nearly regular intervals200 of two or three minutes. I observed that these bubbles constantly rose from the same points, which are four in number; and that it was not possible to change the places from which the gas is emitted, by stirring the bottom of the basin with a stick. These places correspond no doubt to holes or fissures on the gneiss; and indeed when the bubbles rise from one of the apertures201, the emission202 of gas follows instantly from the other three. I could not succeed in inflaming203 the small quantities of gas that rise above the thermal waters, or those I collected in a glass phial held over the springs, an operation that excited in me a nausea204, caused less by the smell of the gas, than by the excessive heat prevailing205 in this ravine. Is this sulphuretted hydrogen mixed with a great proportion of carbonic acid or atmospheric206 air? I am doubtful of the first of these mixtures, though so common in thermal waters; for example at Aix la Chapelle, Enghien, and Bareges. The gas collected in the tube of Fontana’s eudiometer had been shaken for a long time with water. The small basins are covered with a light film of sulphur, deposited by the sulphuretted hydrogen in its slow combustion208 in contact with the atmospheric oxygen. A few plants near the springs were encrusted with sulphur. This deposit is scarcely visible when the water of Mariara is suffered to cool in an open vessel209; no doubt because the quantity of disengaged gas is very small, and is not renewed. The water, when cold, gives no precipitate210 with a solution of nitrate of copper211; it is destitute212 of flavour, and very drinkable. If it contain any saline substances, for example, the sulphates of soda213 or magnesia, their quantities must be very insignificant214. Being almost destitute of chemical tests,* we contented215 ourselves with filling at the spring two bottles, which were sent, along with the nourishing milk of the tree called palo de vaca, to MM. Fourcroy and Vauquelin, by the way of Porto Cabello and the Havannah. This purity in hot waters issuing immediately from granite mountains is in Europe, as well as in the New Continent, a most curious phenomenon.* How can we explain the origin of the sulphuretted hydrogen? It cannot proceed from the decomposition216 of sulphurets of iron, or pyritic strata. Is it owing to sulphurets of calcium217, of magnesium218, or other earthy metalloids, contained in the interior of our planet, under its rocky and oxidated crust?
[* A small case, containing acetate of lead, nitrate of silver, alcohol, prussiate of potash, etc., had been left by mistake at Cumana. I evaporated some of the water of Mariara, and it yielded only a very small residuum, which, digested with nitric acid, appeared to contain only a little silica and extractive vegetable matter.]
[* Warm springs equally pure are found issuing from the granites219 of Portugal, and those of Cantal. In Italy, the Pisciarelli of the lake Agnano have a temperature equal to 93°. Are these pure waters produced by condensed vapours?]
In the ravine of the hot waters of Mariara, amidst little funnels, the temperature of which rises from 56 to 59°, two species of aquatic plants vegetate220; the one is membranaceous221, and contains bubbles of air; the other has parallel fibres. The first much resembles the Ulva labyrinthiformis of Vandelli, which the thermal waters of Europe furnish. At the island of Amsterdam, tufts of lycopodium and marchantia have been seen in places where the heat of the soil was far greater: such is the effect of an habitual119 stimulus222 on the organs of plants. The waters of Mariara contain no aquatic insects. Frogs are found in them, which, being probably chased by serpents, have leaped into the funnels, and there perished.
South of the ravine, in the plain extending towards the shore of the lake, another sulphureous spring gushes223 out, less hot and less impregnated with gas. The crevice224 whence this water issues is six toises higher than the funnel197 just described. The thermometer did not rise in the crevice above 42°. The water is collected in a basin surrounded by large trees; it is nearly circular, from fifteen to eighteen feet diameter, and three feet deep. The slaves throw themselves into this bath at the end of the day, when covered with dust, after having worked in the neighbouring fields of indigo and sugar-cane. Though the water of this bath (bano) is habitually from 12 to 14° hotter than the air, the negroes call it refreshing225; because in the torrid zone this term is used for whatever restores strength, calms the irritation226 of the nerves, or causes a feeling of comfort. We ourselves experienced the salutary effects of the bath. Having slung227 our hammocks on the trees round the basin, we passed a whole day in this charming spot, which abounds in plants. We found near the bano of Mariara the volador, or gyrocarpus. The winged fruits of this large tree turn like a fly-wheel, when they fall from the stalk. On shaking the branches of the volador, we saw the air filled with its fruits, the simultaneous fall of which presents the most singular spectacle. The two membranaceous and striated228 wings are turned so as to meet the air, in falling, at an angle of 45°. Fortunately the fruits we gathered were at their maturity229. We sent some to Europe, and they have germinated230 in the gardens of Berlin, Paris, and Malmaison. The numerous plants of the volador, now seen in hot-houses, owe their origin to the only tree of the kind found near Mariara. The geographical distribution of the different species of gyrocarpus, which Mr. Brown considers as one of the laurineae, is very singular. Jacquin saw one species near Carthagena in America.* This is the same which we met with again in Mexico, near Zumpango, on the road from Acapulco to the capital.* Another species, which grows on the mountains of Coromandel,* has been described by Roxburgh; the third and fourth* grow in the southern hemisphere, on the coasts of Australia.
[* The Gyrocarpus Jacquini of Gartner, or Gyrocarpus americanus of Willdenouw.]
[* The natives of Mexico called it quitlacoctli. I saw some of its young leaves with three and five lobes231; the full-grown leaves are in the form of a heart, and always with three lobes. We never met with the volador in flower.]
[* This is the Gyrocarpus asiaticus of Willdenouw.]
[* Gyrocarpus sphenopterus, and G. rugosus.]
After getting out of the bath, while, half-wrapped in a sheet, we were drying ourselves in the sun, according to the custom of the country, a little man of the mulatto race approached us. After bowing gravely, he made us a long speech on the virtues232 of the waters of Mariara, adverting233 to the numbers of invalids234 by whom they have been visited for some years past, and to the favourable235 situation of the springs, between the two towns Valencia and Caracas. He showed us his house, a little hut covered with palm-leaves, situated in an enclosure at a small distance, on the bank of a rivulet, communicating with the bath. He assured us that we should there find all the conveniences of life; nails to suspend our hammocks, ox-leather to stretch over benches made of reeds, earthern vases always filled with cool water, and what, after the bath, would be most salutary of all, those great lizards236 (iguanas), the flesh of which is known to be a refreshing aliment. We judged from his harangue237, that this good man took us for invalids, who had come to stay near the spring. His counsels and offers of hospitality were not altogether disinterested238. He styled himself the inspector239 of the waters, and the pulpero* of the place. Accordingly all his obliging attentions to us ceased as soon as he heard that we had come merely to satisfy our curiosity; or as they express it in the Spanish colonies, those lands of idleness, para ver, no mas, to see, and nothing more. The waters of Mariara are used with success in rheumatic swellings, and affections of the skin. As the waters are but very feebly impregnated with sulphuretted hydrogen, it is necessary to bathe at the spot where the springs issue. Farther on, these same waters are employed for the irrigation of fields of indigo. A wealthy landed proprietor of Mariara, Don Domingo Tovar, had formed the project of erecting242 a bathing-house, and an establishment which would furnish visitors with better resources than lizard’s flesh for food, and leather stretched on a bench for their repose.
[* Proprietor of a pulperia, or little shop where refreshments243 are sold.]
On the 21st of February, in the evening, we set out from the beautiful Hacienda de Cura for Guacara and Nueva Valencia. We preferred travelling by night, on account of the excessive heat of the day. We passed by the hamlet of Punta Zamuro, at the foot of the high mountains of Las Viruelas. The road is bordered with large zamang-trees, or mimosas, the trunks of which rise to sixty feet high. Their branches, nearly horizontal, meet at more than one hundred and fifty feet distance. I have nowhere seen a vault244 of verdure more beautiful and luxuriant. The night was gloomy: the Rincon del Diablo with its denticulated rocks appeared from time to time at a distance, illumined by the burning of the savannahs, or wrapped in ruddy smoke. At the spot where the bushes were thickest, our horses were frightened by the yell of an animal that seemed to follow us closely. It was a large jaguar245, which had roamed for three years among these mountains. He had constantly escaped the pursuits of the boldest hunters, and had carried off horses and mules246 from the midst of enclosures; but, having no want of food, had not yet attacked men. The negro who conducted us uttered wild cries, expecting by these means to frighten the tiger; but his efforts were ineffectual. The jaguar, like the wolf of Europe, follows travellers even when he will not attack them; the wolf in the open fields and in unsheltered places, the jaguar skirting the road and appearing only at intervals between the bushes.
We passed the day on the 23rd in the house of the Marquis de Toro, at the village of Guacara, a very considerable Indian community. An avenue of carolineas leads from Guacara to Mocundo. It was the first time I had seen in the open air this majestic plant, which forms one of the principal ornaments247 of the extensive conservatories248 of Schonbrunn.* Mocundo is a rich plantation of sugar-canes, belonging to the family of Toro. We there find, what is so rare in that country, a garden, artificial clumps of trees, and on the border of the water, upon a rock of gneiss, a pavilion with a mirador, or belvidere. The view is delightful over the western part of the lake, the surrounding mountains, and a forest of palm-trees that separates Guacara from the city of Nueva Valencia. The fields of sugar-cane, from the soft verdure of the young reeds, resemble a vast meadow. Everything denotes abundance; but it is at the price of the liberty of the cultivators. At Mocundo, with two hundred and thirty negroes, seventy-seven tablones, or cane-fields, are cultivated, each of which, ten thousand varas square,* yields a net profit of two hundred or two hundred and forty piastres a-year. The creole cane and the cane of Otaheite* are planted in the month of April, the first at four, the second at five feet distance. The cane ripens249 in fourteen months. It flowers in the month of October, if the plant be sufficiently vigorous; but the top is cut off before the panicle unfolds. In all the monocotyledonous plants (for example, the maguey cultivated at Mexico for extracting pulque, the wine-yielding palm-tree, and the sugar-cane), the flowering alters the quality of the juices. The preparation of sugar, the boiling, and the claying, are very imperfect in Terra Firma, because it is made only for home consumption; and for wholesale250, papelon is preferred to sugar, either refined or raw. This papelon is an impure251 sugar, in the form of little loaves, of a yellow-brown colour. It contains a mixture of molasses and mucilaginous matter. The poorest man eats papelon, as in Europe he eats cheese. It is believed to have nutritive qualities. Fermented252 with water it yields the guarapo, the favourite beverage253 of the people. In the province of Caracas subcarbonate of potash is used, instead of lime, to purify the juice of the sugar-cane. The ashes of the bucare, which is the Erythrina corallodendrum, are preferred.
[* Every tree of the Carolinea princeps at Schonbrunn has sprung from seeds collected from one single tree of enormous size, near Chacao, east of Caracas.]
[* A tablon, equal to 1849 square toises, contains nearly an acre and one-fifth: a legal acre has 1344 square toises, and 1.95 legal acre is equal to one hectare.]
[* In the island of Palma, where in the latitude of 29° the sugar-cane is said to be cultivated as high as 140 toises above the level of the Atlantic, the Otaheite cane requires more heat than the Creole cane.]
The sugar-cane was introduced very late, probably towards the end of the sixteenth century, from the West India Islands, into the valleys of Aragua. It was known in India, in China, and in all the islands of the Pacific, from the most remote antiquity254; and it was planted at Khorassan, in Persia, as early as the fifth century of our era, in order to obtain from it solid sugar.* The Arabs carried this reed, so useful to the inhabitants of hot and temperate countries, to the shores of the Mediterranean. In 1306, its cultivation was yet unknown in Sicily; but was already common in the island of Cyprus, at Rhodes, and in the Morea. A hundred years after it enriched Calabria, Sicily, and the coasts of Spain. From Sicily the Infante Don Henry transported the cane to Madeira: from Madeira it passed to the Canary Islands, where it was entirely unknown; for the ferulae of Juba, quae expressae liquorem fundunt potui ucundum, are euphorbias (the Tabayba dulce), and not, as has been recently asserted,* sugar-canes. Twelve sugar-manufactories (ingenios de azucar) were soon established in the island of Great Canary, in that of Palma, and between Adexe, Icod, and Guarachico, in the island of Teneriffe. Negroes were employed in this cultivation, and their descendants still inhabit the grottos of Tiraxana, in the Great Canary. Since the sugar-cane has been transplanted to the West Indies, and the New World has given maize255 to the Canaries, the cultivation of the latter has taken the place of the cane at Teneriffe and the Great Canary. The cane is now found only in the island of Palma, near Argual and Tazacorte,* where it yields scarcely one thousand quintals of sugar a year. The sugar-cane of the Canaries, which Aiguilon transported to St. Domingo, was there cultivated extensively as early as 1513, or during the six or seven following years, under the auspices256 of the monks257 of St. Jerome. Negroes were employed in this cultivation from its commencement; and in 1519 representations were made to government, as in our own time, that the West India Islands would be ruined and made desert, if slaves were not conveyed thither258 annually from the coast of Guinea.
[* The Indian name for the sugar-cane is sharkara. Thence the word sugar.]
[* On the origin of cane-sugar, in the Journal de Pharmacie 1816 page 387. The Tabayba dulce is, according to Von Buch, the Euphorbia balsamifera, the juice of which is neither corrosive259 nor bitter like that of the cardon, or Euphorbia canariensis.]
[* “Notice sur la Culture du Sucre dans les Isles260 Canariennes” by Leopold von Buch.]
For some years past the culture and preparation of sugar has been much improved in Terra Firma; and, as the process of refining is prohibited by the laws at Jamaica, they reckon on the fraudulent exportation of refined sugar to the English colonies. But the consumption of the provinces of Venezuela, in papelon, and in raw sugar employed in making chocolate and sweetmeats (dulces) is so enormous, that the exportation has been hitherto entirely null. The finest plantations of sugar are in the valleys of Aragua and of the Tuy, near Pao de Zarate, between La Victoria and San Sebastian, near Guatire, Guarenas, and Caurimare. The first canes arrived in the New World from the Canary Islands; and even now Canarians, or Islenos, are placed at the head of most of the great plantations, and superintend the labours of cultivation and refining.
It is this connexion between the Canarians and the inhabitants of Venezuela, that has given rise to the introduction of camels into those provinces. The Marquis del Toro caused three to be brought from Lancerote. The expense of conveyance261 was very considerable, owing to the space which these animals occupy on board merchant-vessels262, and the great quantity of water they require during a long sea-voyage. A camel, bought for thirty piastres, costs between eight and nine hundred before it reaches the coast of Caracas. We saw four of these animals at Mocundo; three of which had been bred in America. Two others had died of the bite of the coral, a venomous serpent very common on the banks of the lake. These camels have hitherto been employed only in the conveyance of the sugarcanes to the mill. The males, stronger than the females, carry from forty to fifty arrobas. A wealthy landholder in the province of Varinas, encouraged by the example of the Marquis del Toro, has allotted263 a sum of 15,000 piastres for the purpose of bringing fourteen or fifteen camels at once from the Canary Islands. It is presumed these beasts of burden may be employed in the conveyance of merchandise across the burning plains of Casanare, from the Apure and Calabozo, which in the season of drought resemble the deserts of Africa. How advantageous264 it would have been had the Conquistadores, from the beginning of the sixteenth century, peopled America with camels, as they have peopled it with horned cattle, horses, and mules. Wherever there are immense distances to cross in uninhabited lands; wherever the construction of canals becomes difficult (as in the isthmus265 of Panama, on the table-land of Mexico, and in the deserts that separate the kingdom of Quito from Peru, and Peru from Chile), camels would be of the highest importance, to facilitate inland commerce. It seems the more surprising, that their introduction was not encouraged by the government at the beginning of the conquest, as, long after the taking of Grenada, camels, for which the Moors266 had a great predilection267, were still very common in the south of Spain. A Biscayan, Juan de Reinaga, carried some of these animals at his own expense to Peru. Father Acosta saw them at the foot of the Andes, about the end of the sixteenth century; but little care being taken of them, they scarcely ever bred, and the race soon became extinct. In those times of oppression and cruelty, which have been described as the era of Spanish glory, the commendatories (encomenderos) let out the Indians to travellers like beasts of burden. They were assembled by hundreds, either to carry merchandise across the Cordilleras, or to follow the armies in their expeditions of discovery and pillage268. The Indians endured this service more patiently, because, owing to the almost total want of domestic animals, they had long been constrained269 to perform it, though in a less inhuman270 manner, under the government of their own chiefs. The introduction of camels attempted by Juan de Reinaga spread an alarm among the encomenderos, who were, not by law, but in fact, lords of the Indian villages. The court listened to the complaints of the encomenderos; and in consequence America was deprived of one of the means which would have most facilitated inland communication, and the exchange of productions. Now, however, there is no reason why the introduction of camels should not be attempted as a general measure. Some hundreds of these useful animals, spread over the vast surface of America, in hot and barren places, would in a few years have a powerful influence on the public prosperity. Provinces separated by steppes would then appear to be brought nearer to each other; several kinds of inland merchandize would diminish in price on the coast; and by increasing the number of camels, above all the species called hedjin, or the ship of the desert, a new life would be given to the industry and commerce of the New World.
On the evening of the 22nd we continued our journey from Mocundo by Los Guayos to the city of Nueva Valencia. We passed a little forest of palm-trees, which resembled, by their appearance, and their leaves spread like a fan, the Chamaerops humilis of the coast of Barbary. The trunk, however, rises to twenty-four and sometimes thirty feet high. It is probably a new species of the genus corypha; and is called in the country palma de sombrero, the footstalks of the leaves being employed in weaving hats resembling our straw hats. This grove271 of palm-trees, the withered foliage of which rustles272 at the least breath of air — the camels feeding in the plain — the undulating motion of the vapours on a soil scorched by the ardour of the sun, give the landscape an African aspect. The aridity273 of the land augments274 as the traveller approaches the town, after passing the western extremity of the lake. It is a clayey soil, which has been levelled and abandoned by the waters. The neighbouring hills, called Los Morros de Valencia, are composed of white tufa, a very recent limestone275 formation, immediately covering the gneiss. It is again found at Victoria, and on several other points along the chain of the coast. The whiteness of this tufa, which reflects the rays of the sun, contributes greatly to the excessive heat felt in this place. Everything seems smitten276 with sterility277; scarcely are a few plants of cacao found on the banks of the Rio de Valencia; the rest of the plain is bare, and destitute of vegetation. This appearance of sterility is here attributed, as it is everywhere in the valleys of Aragua, to the cultivation of indigo; which, according to the planters, is, of all plants, that which most exhausts (cansa) the ground. The real physical causes of this phenomenon would be an interesting inquiry278, since, like the effects of fallowing land, and of a rotation279 of crops, it is far from being sufficiently understood. I shall only observe in general, that the complaints of the increasing sterility of cultivated land become more frequent between the tropics, in proportion as they are near the period of their first breaking-up. In a region almost destitute of herbs, where every plant has a ligneous stem, and tends to raise itself as a shrub19, the virgin280 soil remains shaded either by great trees, or by bushes; and under this tufted shade it preserves everywhere coolness and humidity. However active the vegetation of the tropics may appear, the number of roots that penetrate281 into the earth, is not so great in an uncultivated soil; while the plants are nearer to each other in lands subjected to cultivation, and covered with indigo, sugar-canes, or cassava. The trees and shrubs, loaded with branches and leaves, draw a great part of their nourishment from the ambient air; and the virgin soil augments its fertility by the decomposition of the vegetable substances which progressively accumulate. It is not so in the fields covered with indigo, or other herbaceous plants; where the rays of the sun penetrate freely into the earth, and by the accelerated combustion of the hydrurets of carbon and other acidifiable principles, destroy the germs of fecundity282. These effects strike the imagination of the planters the more forcibly, as in lands newly inhabited they compare the fertility of a soil which has been abandoned to itself during thousands of years, with the produce of ploughed fields. The Spanish colonies on the continent, and the great islands of Porto–Rico and Cuba, possess remarkable advantages with respect to the produce of agriculture over the lesser283 West India islands. The former, from their extent, the variety of their scenery, and their small relative population, still bear all the characters of a new soil; while at Barbadoes, Tobago, St. Lucia, the Virgin Islands, and the French part of St. Domingo, it may be perceived that long cultivation has begun to exhaust the soil. If in the valleys of Aragua, instead of abandoning the indigo grounds, and leaving them fallow, they were covered during several years, not with corn, but with other alimentary284 plants and forage285; if among these plants such as belong to different families were preferred, and which shade the soil by their large leaves, the amelioration of the fields would be gradually accomplished286, and they would be restored to a part of their former fertility.
The city of Nueva Valencia occupies a considerable extent of ground, but its population scarcely amounts to six or seven thousand souls. The streets are very broad, the market place, (plaza mayor,) is of vast dimensions; and, the houses being low, the disproportion between the population of the town, and the space that it occupies, is still greater than at Caracas. Many of the whites, (especially the poorest,) forsake287 their houses, and live the greater part of the year in their little plantations of indigo and cotton, where they can venture to work with their own hands; which, according to the inveterate288 prejudices of that country, would be a disgrace to them in the town.
Nueva Valencia, founded in 1555 under the government of Villacinda, by Alonzo Diaz Moreno, is twelve years older than Caracas. Valencia was at first only a dependency of Burburata; but this latter town is nothing now but a place of embarkation289 for mules. It is regretted, and perhaps justly, that Valencia has not become the capital of the country. Its situation in a plain, on the banks of a lake, recalls to mind the position of Mexico. When we reflect on the easy communication afforded by the valleys of Aragua with the Llanos and the rivers that flow into the Orinoco; when we recognize the possibility of opening an inland navigation, by the Rio Pao and the Portuguesa, as far as the mouths of the Orinoco, the Cassiquiare, and the Amazon, it may be conceived that the capital of the vast provinces of Venezuela would have been better placed near the fine harbour of Porto Cabello, beneath a pure and serene291 sky, than near the unsheltered road of La Guayra, in a temperate but constantly foggy valley. Near the kingdom of New Grenada, and situate between the fertile corn-lands of La Victoria and Barquesimeto, the city of Valencia ought to have prospered292; but, notwithstanding these advantages, it has been unable to maintain the contest with Caracas.
Only those who have seen the myriads293 of ants, that infest294 the countries within the torrid zone, can form an idea of the destruction and the sinking of the ground occasioned by these insects. They abound to such a degree on the site of Valencia, that their excavations295 resemble subterranean canals, which are filled with water in the time of the rains, and become very dangerous to the buildings. Here recourse has not been had to the extraordinary means employed at the beginning of the sixteenth century in the island of St. Domingo, when troops of ants ravaged296 the fine plains of La Vega, and the rich possessions of the order of St. Francis. The monks, after having in vain burnt the larvae297 of the ants, and had recourse to fumigations, advised the inhabitants to choose by lot a saint, who would act as a mediator298 against the plague of the ants.* The honour of the choice fell on St. Saturnin; and the ants disappeared as soon as the first festival of this saint was celebrated299. Incredulity has made great progress since the time of the conquest; and it was only on the back of the Cordilleras that I found a small chapel207, destined300, according to its inscription301, for prayers to be addressed to Heaven for the destruction of the termites302.
[* Un abogado contra los harmigos.]
Valencia affords some historical remembrances; but these, like everything connected with the colonies, have no remote date, and recall to mind either civil discords303 or sanguinary conflicts with the savages304. Lopez de Aguirre, whose crimes and adventures form some of the most dramatic episodes of the history of the conquest, proceeded in 1561, from Peru, by the river Amazon to the island of Margareta; and thence, by the port of Burburata, into the valleys of Aragua. On his entrance into Valencia, which proudly entitles itself the City of the King, he proclaimed the independence of country, and the deposition306 of Philip II. The inhabitants withdrew to the islands of the lake of Tacarigua, taking with them all the boats from the shore, to be more secure in their retreat. In consequence of this stratagem307, Aguirre could exercise his cruelties only on his own people. From Valencia he addressed to the king of Spain, a remarkable letter, in which he boasts alternately of his crimes and his piety308; at the same time giving advice to the king on the government of the colonies, and the system of missions. Surrounded by savage305 Indians, navigating309 on a great sea of fresh water, as he calls the Amazon, he is alarmed at the heresies310 of Martin Luther, and the increasing influence of schismatics in Europe.*
[* The following are some remarkable passages in the letter from Aguirre to the king of Spain.
“King Philip, native of Spain, son of Charles the Invincible311! I, Lopez de Aguirre, thy vassal312, an old Christian313, of poor but noble parents, and a native of the town of Onate in Biscay, passed over young to Peru, to labour lance in hand. I rendered thee great services in the conquest of India. I fought for thy glory, without demanding pay of thy officers, as is proved by the books of thy treasury314. I firmly believe, Christian King and Lord, that, very ungrateful to me and my companions, all those who write to thee from this land [America], deceive thee much, because thou seest things from too far off. I recommend to thee to be more just toward the good vassals315 whom thou hast in this country: for I and mine, weary of the cruelties and injustice316 which thy viceroys, thy governors, and thy judges, exercise in thy name, are resolved to obey thee no more. We regard ourselves no longer as Spaniards. We wage a cruel war against thee, because we will not endure the oppression of thy ministers; who, to give places to their nephews and their children, dispose of our lives, our reputation, and our fortune. I am lame317 in the left foot from two shots of an arquebuss, which I received in the valley of Coquimbo, fighting under the orders of thy marshal, Alonzo de Alvarado, against Francis Hernandez Giron, then a rebel, as I am at present, and shall be always; for since thy viceroy, the Marquis de Canete, a cowardly, ambitious, and effeminate man, has hanged our most valiant318 warriors319, I care no more for thy pardon than for the books of Martin Luther. It is not well in thee, King of Spain, to be ungrateful toward thy vassals; for it was whilst thy father, the emperor Charles, remained quietly in Castile, that they procured320 for thee so many kingdoms and vast countries. Remember, King Philip, that thou hast no right to draw revenues from these provinces, the conquest of which has been without danger to thee, but inasmuch as thou recompensest those who have rendered thee such great services. I am certain that few kings go to heaven. Therefore we regard ourselves as very happy to be here in the Indies, preserving in all their purity the commandments of God, and of the Roman Church; and we intend, though sinners during life, to become one day martyrs322 to the glory of God. On going out of the river Amazon, we landed in an island called La Margareta. We there received news from Spain of the great faction323 and machination (maquina) of the Lutherans. This news alarmed us extremely; we found among us one of that faction; his name was Monteverde. I had him cut to pieces, as was just: for, believe me, Senor, wherever I am, people live according to the law. But the corruption324 of morals among the monks is so great in this land that it is necessary to chastise325 it severely326. There is not an ecclesiastic327 here who does not think himself higher than the governor of a province. I beg of thee, great King, not to believe what the monks tell thee down yonder in Spain. They are always talking of the sacrifices they make, as well as of the hard and bitter life they are forced to lead in America: while they occupy the richest lands, and the Indians hunt and fish for them every day. If they shed tears before thy throne, it is that thou mayest send them hither to govern provinces. Dost thou know what sort of life they lead here? Given up to luxury, acquiring possessions, selling the sacraments, being at once ambitious, violent, and gluttonous328; such is the life they lead in America. The faith of the Indians suffer by such bad examples. If thou dost not change all this, O King of Spain, thy government will not be stable.
“What a misfortune that the Emperor, thy father, should have conquered Germany at such a price, and spent, on that conquest, the money we procured for him in these very Indies! In the year 1559 the Marquis de Canete sent to the Amazon, Pedro de Ursua, a Navarrese, or rather a Frenchman: we sailed on the largest rivers of Peru till we came to a gulf86 of fresh water. We had already gone three hundred leagues when we killed that bad and ambitious captain. We chose a caballero of Seville, Fernando de Guzman, for king: and we swore fealty329 to him, as is done to thyself. I was named quarter-master-general: and because I did not consent to all he willed, he wanted to kill me. But I killed this new king, the captain of his guards, his lieutenant-general, his chaplain, a woman, a knight330 of the order of Rhodes, two ensigns, and five or six domestics of the pretended king. I then resolved to punish thy ministers and thy auditors331 (counsellors of the audiencia). I named captains and sergeants332: these again wanted to kill me, but I had them all hanged. In the midst of these adventures we navigated333 for eleven months, till we reached the mouth of the river. We sailed more than fifteen hundred leagues. God knows how we got through that great mass of water. I advise thee, O great King, never to send Spanish fleets into that accursed river. God preserve thee in his holy keeping.”
This letter was given by Aguirre to the vicar of the island of Margareta, Pedro de Contreras, in order to be transmitted to King Philip II. Fray334 Pedro Simon, Provincial335 of the Franciscans in New Grenada, saw several manuscript copies of it both in America and in Spain. It was printed, for the first time, in 1723, in the History of the Province of Venezuela, by Oviedo, volume 1 page 206. Complaints no less violent, on the conduct of the monks of the 16th century, were addressed directly to the pope by the Milanese traveller, Girolamo Benzoni.]
Lopez de Aguirre, or as he is still called by the common people, the Tyrant336, was killed at Barquesimeto, after having been abandoned by his own men. At the moment when he fell, he plunged337 a dagger338 into the bosom of his only daughter, “that she might not have to blush before the Spaniards at the name of the daughter of a traitor339.” The soul of the tyrant (such is the belief of the natives) wanders in the savannahs, like a flame that flies the approach of men.*
[* See volume 1 chapter 1.4.]
The second historical event connected with the name of Valencia is the great incursion made by the Caribs of the Orinoco in 1578 and 1580. That cannibal horde340 went up the banks of the Guarico, crossing the plains or llanos. They were happily repulsed341 by the valour of Garcia Gonzales, one of the captains whose names are still most revered342 in those provinces. It is gratifying to recollect, that the descendants of those very Caribs now live in the missions as peaceable husbandmen, and that no savage nation of Guiana dares to cross the plains which separate the region of the forests from that of cultivated land. The Cordillera of the coast is intersected by several ravines, very uniformly directed from south-east to north-west. This phenomenon is general from the Quebrada of Tocume, between Petares and Caracas, as far as Porto Cabello. It would seem as if the impulsion had everywhere come from the south-east; and this fact is the more striking, as the strata of gneiss and mica-slate in the Cordillera of the coast are generally directed from the south-west to the north-east. Most of these ravines penetrate into the mountains at their southern declivity, without crossing them entirely. But there is an opening (abra) on the meridian of Nueva Valencia, which leads towards the coast, and by which a cooling sea-breeze penetrates343 every evening into the valleys of Aragua. This breeze rises regularly two or three hours after sunset.
By this abra, the farm of Barbula, and an eastern branch of the ravine, a new road is being constructed from Valencia to Porto Cabello. It will be so short, that it will require only four hours to reach the port; and the traveller will be able to go and return in the same day from the coast to the valleys of Aragua. In order to examine this road, we set out on the 26th of February in the evening for the farm of Barbula.
On the morning of the 27th we visited the hot springs of La Trinchera, three leagues from Valencia. The ravine is very large, and the descent almost continual from the banks of the lake to the sea-coast. La Trinchera takes its name from some fortifications of earth, thrown up in 1677 by the French buccaneers, who sacked the town of Valencia. The hot springs (and this is a remarkable geological fact,) do not issue on the south side of the mountains, like those of Mariara, Onoto, and the Brigantine; but they issue from the chain itself almost at its northern declivity. They are much more abundant than any we had till then seen, forming a rivulet which, in times of the greatest drought, is two feet deep and eighteen wide. The temperature of the water, measured with great care, was 90.3° of the centigrade thermometer. Next to the springs of Urijino, in Japan, which are asserted to be pure water at 100° of temperature, the waters of the Trinchera of Porto Cabello appear to be the hottest in the world. We breakfasted near the spring; eggs plunged into the water were boiled in less than four minutes. These waters, strongly charged with sulphuretted hydrogen, gush out from the back of a hill rising one hundred and fifty feet above the bottom of the ravine, and tending from south-south-east to north-north-west. The rock from which the springs gush, is a real coarse-grained granite, resembling that of the Rincon del Diablo, in the mountains of Mariara. Wherever the waters evaporate in the air, they form sediments344 and incrustations of carbonate of lime; possibly they traverse strata of primitive limestone, so common in the mica-slate and gneiss of the coasts of Caracas. We were surprised at the luxuriant vegetation that surrounds the basin; mimosas with slender pinnate leaves, clusias, and fig-trees, have pushed their roots into the bottom of a pool, the temperature of which is 85°; and the branches of these trees extended over the surface of the water, at two or three inches distance. The foliage of the mimosas, though constantly enveloped in the hot vapours, displayed the most beautiful verdure. An arum, with a woody stem, and with large sagittate leaves, rose in the very middle of a pool the temperature of which was 70°. Plants of the same species vegetate in other parts of those mountains at the brink345 of torrents, the temperature of which is not 18°. What is still more singular, forty feet distant from the point whence the springs gush out at a temperature of 90°, other springs are found perfectly cold. They all follow for some time a parallel direction; and the natives showed us that, by digging a hole between the two rivulets346, they could procure321 a bath of any given temperature they pleased. It seems remarkable, that in the hottest as well as the coldest climates, people display the same predilection for heat. On the introduction of Christianity into Iceland, the inhabitants would be baptized only in the hot springs of Hecla: and in the torrid zone, in the plains, as well as on the Cordilleras, the natives flock from all parts to the thermal waters. The sick, who come to La Trinchera to use vapour-baths, form a sort of frame-work over the spring with branches of trees and very slender reeds. They stretch themselves naked on this frame, which appeared to me to possess little strength, and to be dangerous of access. The Rio de Aguas Calientes runs towards the north-east, and becomes, near the coast, a considerable river, swarming347 with great crocodiles, and contributing, by its inundations, to the insalubrity of the shore.
We descended348 towards Porto Cabello, having constantly the river of hot water on our right. The road is extremely picturesque, and the waters roll down on the shelves of rock. We might have fancied we were gazing on the cascades of the Reuss, that flows down Mount St. Gothard; but what a contrast in the vigour349 and richness of the vegetation! The white trunks of the cecropia rise majestically350 amid bignonias and melastomas. They do not disappear till we are within a hundred toises above the level of the ocean. A small thorny351 palm-tree extends also to this limit; the slender pinnate leaves of which look as if they had been curled toward the edges. This tree is very common in these mountains; but not having seen either its fruit or its flowers, we are ignorant whether it be the piritu palm-tree of the Caribbees, or the Cocos aculeata of Jacquin.
The rock on this road presents a geological phenomenon, the more remarkable as the existence of real stratified granite has long been disputed. Between La Trinchera and the Hato de Cambury a coarse-grained granite appears, which, from the disposition352 of the spangles of mica, collected in small groups, scarcely admits of confounding with gneiss, or with rocks of a schistose texture353. This granite, divided into ledges354 of two or three feet thick, is directed 52° north-east, and slopes to the north-west regularly at an angle of from 30 or 40°. The feldspar, crystallized in prisms with four unequal sides, about an inch long, passes through every variety of tint from a flesh-red to yellowish white. The mica, united in hexagonal plates, is black, and sometimes green. The quartz predominates in the mass; and is generally of a milky355 white. I observed neither hornblende, black schorl, nor rutile titanite, in this granite. In some ledges we recognised round masses, of a blackish gray, very quartzose, and almost destitute of mica. They are from one to two inches diameter; and are found in every zone, in all granite mountains. These are not imbedded fragments, as at Greiffenstein in Saxony, but aggregations356 of particles which seem to have been subjected to partial attractions. I could not follow the line of junction357 of the gneiss and granitic formations. According to angles taken in the valleys of Aragua, the gneiss appears to descend below the granite, which must consequently be of a more recent formation. The appearance of a stratified granite excited my attention the more, because, having had the direction of the mines of Fichtelberg in Franconia for several years, I was accustomed to see granites divided into ledges of three or four feet thick, but little inclined, and forming masses like towers, or old ruins, at the summit of the highest mountains.*
[* At Ochsenkopf, at Rudolphstein, at Epprechtstein, at Luxburg, and at Schneeberg. The dip of the strata of these granites of Fichtelberg is generally only from 6 to 10°, rarely (at Schneeberg) 18°. According to the dips I observed in the neighbouring strata of gneiss and mica-slate, I should think that the granite of Fichtelberg is very ancient, and serves as a basis for other formations; but the strata of grunstein, and the disseminated358 tin-ore which it contains, may lead us to doubt its great antiquity, from the analogy of the granites of Saxony containing tin.]
The heat became stifling359 as we approached the coast. A reddish vapour veiled the horizon. It was near sunset, and the breeze was not yet stirring. We rested in the lonely farms known under the names of the Hato de Cambury and the house of the Canarian (Casa del Isleno). The river of hot water, along the banks of which we passed, became deeper. A crocodile, more than nine feet long, lay dead on the strand360. We wished to examine its teeth, and the inside of its mouth; but having been exposed to the sun for several weeks, it exhaled362 a smell so fetid that we were obliged to relinquish363 our design and remount our horses. When we arrived at the level of the sea, the road turned eastward364, and crossed a barren shore a league and a half broad, resembling that of Cumana. We there found some scattered cactuses, a sesuvium, a few plants of Coccoloba uvifera, and along the coast some avicennias and mangroves. We forded the Guayguaza and the Rio Estevan, which, by their frequent overflowing, form great pools of stagnant366 water. Small rocks of meandrites, madrepores, and other corals, either ramified or with a rounded surface, rise in this vast plain, and seem to attest367 the recent retreat of the sea. But these masses, which are the habitations of polypi, are only fragments imbedded in a breccia with a calcareous cement. I say a breccia, because we must not confound the fresh and white corallites of this very recent littoral368 formation, with the corallites blended in the mass of transition-rocks, grauwacke, and black limestone. We were astonished to find in this uninhabited spot a large Parkinsonia aculeata loaded with flowers. Our botanical works indicate this tree as peculiar to the New World; but during five years we saw it only twice in a wild state, once in the plains of the Rio Guayguaza, and once in the llanos of Cumana, thirty leagues from the coast, near la Villa del Pao, but there was reason to believe that this latter place had once been a conuco, or cultivated enclosure. Everywhere else on the continent of America we saw the Parkinsonia, like the Plumeria, only in the gardens of the Indians.
At Porto Cabello, as at La Guayra, it is disputed whether the port lies east or west of the town, with which the communications are the most frequent. The inhabitants believe that Porto Cabello is north-north-west of Nueva Valencia; and my observations give a longitude369 of three or four minutes more towards the west.
We were received with the utmost kindness in the house of a French physician, M. Juliac, who had studied medicine at Montpelier. His small house contained a collection of things the most various, but which were all calculated to interest travellers. We found works of literature and natural history; notes on meteorology; skins of the jaguar and of large aquatic serpents; live animals, monkeys, armadilloes, and birds. Our host was principal surgeon to the royal hospital of Porto Cabello, and was celebrated in the country for his skilful370 treatment of the yellow fever. During a period of seven years he had seen six or eight thousand persons enter the hospitals, attacked by this cruel malady371. He had observed the ravages372 that the epidemic373 caused in Admiral Ariztizabal’s fleet, in 1793. That fleet lost nearly a third of its men; for the sailors were almost all unseasoned Europeans, and held unrestrained intercourse374 with the shore. M. Juliac had heretofore treated the sick as was commonly practised in Terra Firma, and in the island, by bleeding, aperient medicines, and acid drinks. In this treatment no attempt was made to raise the vital powers by the action of stimulants375, so that, in attempting to allay377 the fever, the languor378 and debility were augmented. In the hospitals, where the sick were crowded, the mortality was often thirty-three per cent among the white Creoles; and sixty-five in a hundred among the Europeans recently disembarked. Since a stimulant376 treatment, the use of opium380, of benzoin, and of alcoholic381 draughts382, has been substituted for the old debilitating383 method, the mortality has considerably diminished. It was believed to be reduced to twenty in a hundred among Europeans, and ten among Creoles;* even when black vomiting384, and haemorrhage from the nose, ears, and gums, indicated a high degree of exacerbation385 in the malady. I relate faithfully what was then given as the general result of observation: but I think, in these numerical comparisons, it must not be forgotten, that, notwithstanding appearances, the epidemics386 of several successive years do not resemble each other; and that, in order to decide on the use of fortifying387 or debilitating remedies, (if indeed this difference exist in an absolute sense,) we must distinguish between the various periods of the malady.
[* I have treated in another work of the proportions of mortality in the yellow fever. (Nouvelle Espagne volume 2 pages 777, 785, and 867.) At Cadiz the average mortality was, in 1800, twenty per cent; at Seville, in 1801, it amounted to sixty per cent. At Vera Cruz the mortality does not exceed twelve or fifteen per cent, when the sick can be properly attended. In the civil hospitals of Paris the number of deaths, one year with another, is from fourteen to eighteen per cent; but it is asserted that a great number of patients enter the hospitals almost dying, or at very advanced time of life.]
The climate of Porto Cabello is less ardent than that of La Guayra. The breeze there is stronger, more frequent, and more regular. The houses do not lean against rocks that absorb the rays of the sun during the day, and emit caloric at night, and the air can circulate more freely between the coast and the mountains of Ilaria. The causes of the insalubrity of the atmosphere must be sought in the shores that extend to the east, as far as the eye can reach, towards the Punta de Tucasos, near the fine port of Chichiribiche. There are situated the salt-works; and there, at the beginning of the rainy season, tertian fevers prevail, and easily degenerate388 into asthenic fevers. It is affirmed that the mestizoes who are employed in the salt-works are more tawny389, and have a yellower skin, when they have suffered several successive years from those fevers, which are called the malady of the coast. The poor fishermen, who dwell on this shore, are of opinion that it is not the inundations of the sea, and the retreat of the salt-water, which render the lands covered with mangroves so unhealthful;* they believe that the insalubrity of the air is owing to the fresh water, that is, to the overflowings of the Guayguaza and Estevan, the swell241 of which is so great and sudden in the months of October and November. The banks of the Rio Estevan have been less insalubrious since little plantations of maize and plantains have been established; and, by raising and hardening the ground, the river has been confined within narrower limits. A plan is formed of giving another issue to the Rio San Estevan, and thus to render the environs of Porto Cabello more wholesome390. A canal is to lead the waters toward that part of the coast which is opposite the island of Guayguaza.
[* In the West India Islands all the dreadful maladies which prevail during the wintry season, have been for a long time attributed to the south winds. These winds convey the emanations of the mouths of the Orinoco and of the small rivers of Terra Firma toward the high latitudes.]
The salt-works of Porto Cabello somewhat resemble those of the peninsula of Araya, near Cumana. The earth, however, which they lixivate by collecting the rain-water into small basins, contains less salt. It is questioned here, as at Cumana, whether the ground be impregnated with saline particles because it has been for ages covered at intervals with sea-water evaporated by the heat of the sun, or whether the soil be muriatiferous, as in a mine very poor in native salt. I had not leisure to examine this plain with the same attention as the peninsula of Araya. Besides, does not this problem reduce itself to the simple question, whether the salt be owing to new or very ancient inundations? The labouring at the salt-works of Porto Cabello being extremely unhealthy, the poorest men alone engage in it. They collect the salt in little stores, and afterwards sell it to the shopkeepers in the town.
During our abode at Porto Cabello, the current on the coast, generally directed towards the west,* ran from west to east. This upward current (corriente por arriba), is very frequent during two or three months of the year, from September to November. It is believed to be owing to some north-west winds that have blown between Jamaica and Cape22 St. Antony in the island of Cuba.
[* The wrecks391 of the Spanish ships, burnt at the island of Trinidad, at the time of its occupation by the English in 1797, were carried by the general or rotary392 current to Punta Brava, near Porto Cabello. This general current toward the east, from the coasts of Paria to the isthmus of Panama and the western extremity of the island of Cuba, was the subject of a violent dispute between Don Diego Columbus, Oviedo, and the pilot Andres, in the sixteenth century.]
The military defence of the coasts of Terra Firma rests on six points: the castle of San Antonio at Cumana; the Morro of Nueva Barcelona; the fortifications of La Guayra, (mounting one hundred and thirty-four guns); Porto Cabello; fort San Carlos, (at the mouth of the lake of Maracaybo); and Carthagena. Porto Cabello is, next to Carthagena, the most important fortified393 place. The town of Porto Cabello is quite modern, and the port is one of the finest in the world. Art has had scarcely anything to add to the advantages which the nature of the spot presents. A neck of land stretches first towards the north, and then towards the west. Its western extremity is opposite to a range of islands connected by bridges, and so close together that they might be taken for another neck of land. These islands are all composed of a calcareous breccia of extremely recent formation, and analagous to that on the coast of Cumana, and near the castle of Araya. It is a conglomerate394, containing fragments of madrepores and other corals cemented by a limestone basis and grains of sand. We had already seen this conglomerate near the Rio Guayguaza. By a singular disposition of the ground the port resembles a basin or a little inland lake, the southern extremity of which is filled with little islands covered with mangroves. The opening of the port towards the west contributes much to the smoothness of the water.* One vessel only can enter at a time; but the largest ships of the line can anchor very near land to take in water. There is no other danger in entering the harbour than the reefs of Punta Brava, opposite which a battery of eight guns has been erected. Towards the west and south-west we see the fort, which is a regular pentagon with five bastions, the battery of the reef, and the fortifications that surround the ancient town, founded on an island of a trapezoidal form. A bridge and the fortified gate of the Staccado join the old to the new town; the latter is already larger than the former, though considered only as its suburb. The bottom of the basin or lake which forms the harbour of Porto Cabello, turns behind this suburb to the south-west. It is a marshy ground filled with noisome395 and stagnant water. The town, which has at present nearly nine thousand inhabitants, owes its origin to an illicit396 commerce, attracted to these shores by the proximity397 of the town of Burburata, which was founded in 1549. It is only since the administration of the Biscayans, and of the company of Guipuzcoa, that Porto Cabello, which was but a hamlet, has been converted into a well-fortified town. The vessels of La Guayra, which is less a port than a bad open roadstead, come to Porto Cabello to be caulked398 and repaired.
[* It is disputed at Porto Cabello whether the port takes its name from the tranquillity400 of its waters, “which would not move a hair (cabello),” or (which is more probable) derived401 from Antonio Cabello, one of the fishermen with whom the smugglers of Curacoa had formed a connexion at the period when the first hamlet was constructed on this half-desert coast.]
The real defence of the harbour consists in the low batteries on the neck of land at Punta Brava, and on the reef; but from ignorance of this principle, a new fort, the Mirador of Solano* has been constructed at a great expense, on the mountains commanding the suburb towards the south. More than ten thousand mules are annually exported from Porto Cabello. It is curious enough to see these animals embarked379; they are thrown down with ropes, and then hoisted402 on board the vessels by means of a machine resembling a crane. Ranged in two files, the mules with difficulty keep their footing during the rolling and pitching of the ship; and in order to frighten and render them more docile403, a drum is beaten during a great part of the day and night. We may guess what quiet a passenger enjoys, who has the courage to embark290 for Jamaica in a schooner404 laden405 with mules.
[* The Mirador is situate eastward of the Vigia Alta, and south-east of the battery of the salt-works and the powder-mill.]
We left Porto Cabello on the first of March, at sunrise. We saw with surprise the great number of boats that were laden with fruit to be sold at the market. It reminded me of a fine morning at Venice. The town presents in general, on the side towards the sea, a cheerful and agreeable aspect. Mountains covered with vegetation, and crowned with peaks called Las Tetas de Ilaria, which, from their outline would be taken for rocks of a trap-formation, form the background of the landscape. Near the coast all is bare, white, and strongly illumined, while the screen of mountains is clothed with trees of thick foliage that project their vast shadows upon the brown and rocky ground. On going out of the town we visited an aqueduct that had been just finished. It is five thousand varas long, and conveys the waters of the Rio Estevan by a trench122 to the town. This work has cost more than thirty thousand piastres; but its waters gush out in every street.
We returned from Porto Cabello to the valleys of Aragua, and stopped at the Farm of Barbula, near which, a new road to Valencia is in the course of construction. We had heard, several weeks before, of a tree, the sap of which is a nourishing milk. It is called the cow-tree; and we were assured that the negroes of the farm, who drink plentifully406 of this vegetable milk, consider it a wholesome aliment. All the milky juices of plants being acrid407, bitter, and more or less poisonous, this account appeared to us very extraordinary; but we found by experience during our stay at Barbula, that the virtues of this tree had not been exaggerated. This fine tree rises like the broad-leaved star-apple.* Its oblong and pointed408 leaves, rough and alternate, are marked by lateral ribs, prominent at the lower surface, and parallel. Some of them are ten inches long. We did not see the flower: the fruit is somewhat fleshy, and contains one and sometimes two nuts. When incisions409 are made in the trunk of this tree, it yields abundance of a glutinous410 milk, tolerably thick, devoid411 of all acridity412, and of an agreeable and balmy smell. It was offered to us in the shell of a calabash. We drank considerable quantities of it in the evening before we went to bed, and very early in the morning, without feeling the least injurious effect. The viscosity413 of this milk alone renders it a little disagreeable. The negroes and the free people who work in the plantations drink it, dipping into it their bread of maize or cassava. The overseer of the farm told us that the negroes grow sensibly fatter during the season when the palo de vaca furnishes them with most milk. This juice, exposed to the air, presents at its surface (perhaps in consequence of the absorption of the atmospheric oxygen) membranes414 of a strongly animalized substance, yellowish, stringy, and resembling cheese. These membranes, separated from the rest of the more aqueous liquid, are elastic415, almost like caoutchouc; but they undergo, in time, the same phenomena of putrefaction416 as gelatine. The people call the coagulum that separates by the contact of the air, cheese. This coagulum grows sour in the space of five or six days, as I observed in the small portions which I carried to Nueva Valencia. The milk contained in a stopped phial, had deposited a little coagulum; and, far from becoming fetid, it exhaled constantly a balsamic odour. The fresh juice mixed with cold water was scarcely coagulated at all; but on the contact of nitric acid the separation of the viscous417 membranes took place. We sent two bottles of this milk to M. Fourcroy at Paris: in one it was in its natural state, and in the other, mixed with a certain quantity of carbonate of soda. The French consul418 residing in the island of St. Thomas, undertook to convey them to him.
[* Chrysophyllum cainito.]
The extraordinary tree of which we have been speaking appears to be peculiar to the Cordillera of the coast, particularly from Barbula to the lake of Maracaybo. Some stocks of it exist near the village of San Mateo; and, according to M. Bredemeyer, whose travels have so much enriched the fine conservatories of Schonbrunn and Vienna, in the valley of Caucagua, three days journey east of Caracas. This naturalist419 found, like us, that the vegetable milk of the palo de vaco had an agreeable taste and an aromatic420 smell. At Caucagua, the natives call the tree that furnishes this nourishing juice, the milk-tree (arbol del leche). They profess421 to recognize, from the thickness and colour of the foliage, the trunks that yield the most juice; as the herdsman distinguishes, from external signs, a good milch-cow. No botanist422 has hitherto known the existence of this plant. It seems, according to M. Kunth, to belong to the sapota family. Long after my return to Europe, I found in the Description of the East Indies by Laet, a Dutch traveller, a passage that seems to have some relation to the cow-tree. “There exist trees,” says Laet,* “in the province of Cumana, the sap of which much resembles curdled423 milk, and affords a salubrious nourishment.”
[* “Inter arbores quae sponte hic passim nascuntur, memorantur a scriptoribus Hispanis quaedam quae lacteum quemdam liquorem fundunt, qui durus admodum evadit instar gummi, et suavem odorem de se fundit; aliae quae liquorem quemdam edunt, instar lactis coagulati, qui in cibis ab ipsis usurpatur sine noxa.” (Among the trees growing here, it is remarked by Spanish writers that there are some which pour out a milky juice which soon grows solid, like gum, affording a pleasant odour; and also others that give out a liquid which coagulates like cheese, and which they eat at meals without any ill effects). Descriptio Indiarum Occidentalium, lib. 18.]
Amidst the great number of curious phenomena which I have observed in the course of my travels, I confess there are few that have made so powerful an impression on me as the aspect of the cow-tree. Whatever relates to milk or to corn, inspires an interest which is not merely that of the physical knowledge of things, but is connected with another order of ideas and sentiments. We can scarcely conceive how the human race could exist without farinaceous substances, and without that nourishing juice which the breast of the mother contains, and which is appropriated to the long feebleness of the infant. The amylaceous matter of corn, the object of religious veneration424 among so many nations, ancient and modern, is diffused in the seeds, and deposited in the roots of vegetables; milk, which serves as an aliment, appears to us exclusively the produce of animal organization. Such are the impressions we have received in our earliest infancy425: such is also the source of that astonishment426 created by the aspect of the tree just described. It is not here the solemn shades of forests, the majestic course of rivers, the mountains wrapped in eternal snow, that excite our emotion. A few drops of vegetable juice recall to our minds all the powerfulness and the fecundity of nature. On the barren flank of a rock grows a tree with coriaceous and dry leaves. Its large woody roots can scarcely penetrate into the stone. For several months of the year not a single shower moistens its foliage. Its branches appear dead and dried; but when the trunk is pierced there flows from it a sweet and nourishing milk. It is at the rising of the sun that this vegetable fountain is most abundant. The negroes and natives are then seen hastening from all quarters, furnished with large bowls to receive the milk, which grows yellow, and thickens at its surface. Some empty their bowls under the tree itself; others carry the juice home to their children.
In examining the physical properties of animal and vegetable products, science displays them as closely linked together; but it strips them of what is marvellous, and perhaps, therefore, of a part of their charms. Nothing appears isolated427; the chemical principles that were believed to be peculiar to animals are found in plants; a common chain links together all organic nature.
Long before chemists had recognized small portions of wax in the pollen428 of flowers, the varnish429 of leaves, and the whitish dust of our plums and grapes, the inhabitants of the Andes of Quindiu made tapers430 with the thick layer of wax that covers the trunk of a palm-tree.* It is but a few years since we discovered, in Europe, caseum, the basis of cheese, in the emulsion of almonds; yet for ages past, in the mountains of the coast of Venezuela, the milk of a tree, and the cheese separated from that vegetable milk, have been considered as a salutary aliment. How are we to account for this singular course in the development of knowledge? How have the unlearned inhabitants of one hemisphere become cognizant of a fact which, in the other, so long escaped the sagacity of the scientific? It is because a small number of elements and principles differently combined are spread through several families of plants; it is because the genera and species of these natural families are not equally distributed in the torrid, the frigid431, and the temperate zones; it is that tribes, excited by want, and deriving432 almost all their subsistence from the vegetable kingdom, discover nutritive principles, farinaceous and alimentary substances, wherever nature has deposited them in the sap, the bark, the roots, or the fruits of vegetables. That amylaceous fecula which the seeds of the cereal plants furnish in all its purity, is found united with an acrid and sometimes even poisonous juice, in the roots of the arums, the Tacca pinnatifida, and the Jatropha manihot. The savage of America, like the savage of the South Sea islands, has learned to dulcify the fecula, by pressing and separating it from its juice. In the milk of plants, and in the milky emulsions, matter extremely nourishing, albumen, caseum, and sugar, are found mixed with caoutchouc and with deleterious and caustic433 principles, such as morphine and hydrocyanic acid.* These mixtures vary not only in the different families, but also in the species which belong to the same genus. Sometimes it is morphine or the narcotic434 principle, that characterises the vegetable milk, as in some papaverous plants; sometimes it is caoutchouc, as in the hevea and the castilloa; sometimes albumen and caseum, as in the cow-tree.
[* Coroxylon andicola.]
[* Opium contains morphine, caoutchouc, etc.]
The lactescent plants belong chiefly to the three families of the euphorbiaceae, the urticeae, and the apocineae.* Since, on examining the distribution of vegetable forms over the globe, we find that those three families are more numerous in species in the low regions of the tropics, we must thence conclude, that a very elevated temperature contributes to the elaboration of the milky juices, to the formation of caoutchouc, albumen, and caseous matter. The sap of the palo de vaca furnishes unquestionably the most striking example of a vegetable milk in which the acrid and deleterious principle is not united with albumen, caseum, and caoutchouc: the genera euphorbia and asclepias, however, though generally known for their caustic properties, already present us with a few species, the juice of which is sweet and harmless. Such are the Tabayba dulce of the Canary Islands, which we have already mentioned,* and the Asclepias lactifera of Ceylon. Burman relates that, in the latter country, when cow’s milk is wanting, the milk of this asclepias is used; and that the ailments435 commonly prepared with animal milk are boiled with its leaves. It may be possible, as Decandolle has well observed, that the natives employ only the juice that flows from the young plant, at a period when the acrid principle is not yet developed. In fact, the first shoots of the apocyneous plants are eaten in several countries.
[* After these three great families follow the papaveraceae, the chicoraceae, the lobeliaceae, the campanulaceae, the sapoteae, and the cucurbitaceae. The hydrocyanic acid is peculiar to the group of rosaceo-amygdalaceae. In the monocotyledonous plants there is no milky juice; but the perisperm of the palms, which yields such sweet and agreeable milky emulsions, contains, no doubt, caseum. Of what nature is the milk of mushrooms?]
[* Euphorbia balsamifera. The milky juice of the Cactus365 mamillaris is equally sweet.]
I have endeavoured by these comparisons to bring into consideration, under a more general point of view, the milky juices that circulate in vegetables; and the milky emulsions that the fruits of the amygdalaceous plants and palms yield. I may be permitted to add the result of some experiments which I attempted to make on the juice of the Carica papaya during my stay in the valleys of Aragua, though I was then almost destitute of chemical tests. The juice has been since examined by Vauquelin, and this celebrated chemist has very clearly recognized the albumen and caseous matter; he compares the milky sap to a substance strongly animalized — to the blood of animals; but his researches were confined to a fermented juice and a coagulum of a fetid smell, formed during the passage from the Mauritius to France. He has expressed a wish that some traveller would examine the milk of the papaw-tree just as it flows from the stem or the fruit.
The younger the fruit of the carica, the more milk it yields: it is even found in the germen scarcely fecundated. In proportion as the fruit ripens, the milk becomes less abundant, and more aqueous. Less of that animal matter which is coagulable by acids and by the absorption of atmospheric oxygen, is found in it. As the whole fruit is viscous,* it might be supposed that, as it grows larger, the coagulable matter is deposed436 in the organs, and forms a part of the pulp240, or the fleshy substance. When nitric acid, diluted437 with four parts of water, is added drop by drop to the milk expressed from a very young fruit, a very extraordinary phenomenon appears. At the centre of each drop a gelatinous pellicle is formed, divided by greyish streaks438. These streaks are simply the juice rendered more aqueous, owing to the contact of the acid having deprived it of the albumen. At the same time, the centre of the pellicles becomes opaque, and of the colour of the yolk439 of an egg; they enlarge as if by the prolongation of divergent fibres. The whole liquid assumes at first the appearance of an agate440 with milky clouds; and it seems as if organic membranes were forming under the eye of the observer. When the coagulum extends to the whole mass, the yellow spots again disappear. By agitation441 it becomes granulous like soft cheese.* The yellow colour reappears on adding a few more drops of nitric acid. The acid acts in this instance as the oxygen of the atmosphere at a temperature from 27 to 35°; for the white coagulum grows yellow in two or three minutes, when exposed to the sun. After a few hours the yellow colour turns to brown, no doubt because the carbon is set more free progressively as the hydrogen, with which it was combined, is burnt. The coagulum formed by the acid becomes viscous, and acquires that smell of wax which I have observed in treating muscular flesh and mushrooms (morels) with nitric acid. According to the fine experiments of Mr. Hatchett, the albumen may be supposed to pass partly to the state of gelatine. The coagulum of the papaw-tree, when newly prepared, being thrown into water, softens442, dissolves in part, and gives a yellowish tint to the fluid. The milk, placed in contact with water only, forms also membranes. In an instant a tremulous jelly is precipitated443, resembling starch444. This phenomenon is particularly striking if the water employed be heated to 40 or 60°. The jelly condenses in proportion as more water is poured upon it. It preserves a long time its whiteness, only growing yellow by the contact of a few drops of nitric acid. Guided by the experiments of Fourcroy and Vauquelin on the juice of the hevea, I mixed a solution of carbonate of soda with the milk of the papaw. No clot136 is formed, even when pure water is poured on a mixture of the milk with the alkaline solution. The membranes appear only when, by adding an acid, the soda is neutralized445, and the acid is in excess. I made the coagulum formed by nitric acid, the juice of lemons, or hot water, likewise disappear by mixing it with carbonate of soda. The sap again becomes milky and liquid, as in its primitive state; but this experiment succeeds only when the coagulum has been recently formed.
[* The same viscosity is also remarked in the fresh milk of the palo de vaca. It is no doubt occasioned by the caoutchouc, which is not yet separated, and which forms one mass with the albumen and the caseum, as the butter and the caseum in animal milk. The juice of a euphorbiaceous plant (Sapium aucuparium), which also yields caoutchouc, is so glutinous that it is used to catch parrots.]
[* The substance which falls down in grumous and filamentous446 clots447 is not pure caoutchouc, but perhaps a mixture of this substance with caseum and albumen. Acids precipitate the caoutchouc from the milky juice of the euphorbiums, fig-trees, and hevea; they precipitate the caseum from the milk of animals. A white coagulum was formed in phials closely stopped, containing the milk of the hevea, and preserved among our collections, during our journey to the Orinoco. It is perhaps the development of a vegetable acid which then furnishes oxygen to the albumen. The formation of the coagulum of the hevea, or of real caoutchouc, is nevertheless much more rapid in contact with the air. The absorption of atmospheric oxygen is not in the least necessary to the production of butter which exists already formed in the milk of animals; but I believe it cannot be doubted that, in the milk of plants, this absorption produces the pellicles of caoutchouc, of coagulated albumen, and of caseum, which are successively formed in vessels exposed to the open air.]
On comparing the milky juices of the papaw, the cow-tree, and the hevea, there appears a striking analogy between the juices which abound in caseous matter, and those in which caoutchouc prevails. All the white and newly prepared caoutchouc, as well as the waterproof448 cloaks, manufactured in Spanish America by placing a layer of milk of hevea between two pieces of cloth, exhale361 an animal and nauseating449 smell. This seems to indicate that the caoutchouc, in coagulating, carries with it the caseum, which is perhaps only an altered albumen.
The produce of the bread-fruit tree can no more be considered as bread than plantains before the state of maturity, or the tuberous and amylaceous roots of the cassava, the dioscorea, the Convolvulus batatas, and the potato. The milk of the cow-tree contains, on the contrary, a caseous matter, like the milk of mammiferous animals. Advancing to more general considerations, we may regard, with M. Gay–Lussac, the caoutchouc as the oily part — the butter of vegetable milk. We find in the milk of plants caseum and caoutchouc; in the milk of animals, caseum and butter. The proportions of the two albuminous and oily principles differ in the various species of animals and of lactescent plants. In these last they are most frequently mixed with other substances hurtful as food; but of which the separation might perhaps be obtained by chemical processes. A vegetable milk becomes nourishing when it is destitute of acrid and narcotic principles; and abounds less in caoutchouc than in caseous matter.*
[* The milk of the lactescent agarics has not been separately analysed; it contains an acrid principle in the Agaricus piperatus, and in other species it is sweet and harmless. The experiments of MM. Braconnot, Bouillon–Lagrange, and Vauquelin (Annales de Chimie, volume 46, volume 51, volume 79, volume 80, volume 85, have pointed out a great quantity of albumen in the substance of the Agaricus deliciosus, an edible450 mushroom. It is this albumen contained in their juice which renders them so hard when boiled. It has been proved that morels (Morchella esculenta) can be converted into sebaceous and adipocerous matter, capable of being used in the fabrication of soap. (De Candolle, sur les Proprietes medicinales des Plantes.) Saccharine451 matter has also been found in mushrooms by Gunther. It is in the family of the fungi452, more especially in the clavariae, phalli, helvetiae, the merulii, and the small gymnopae which display themselves in a few hours after a storm of rain, that organic nature produces with most rapidity the greatest variety of chemical principles — sugar, albumen, adipocire, acetate of potash, fat, ozmazome, the aromatic principles, etc. It would be interesting to examine, besides the milk of the lactescent fungi, those species which, when cut in pieces, change their colour on the contact of atmospheric air.
Though we have referred the palo de vaca to the family of the sapotas, we have nevertheless found in it a great resemblance to some plants of the urticeous kind, especially to the fig-tree, because of its terminal stipulae in the shape of a horn; and to the brosimum, on account of the structure of its fruit. M. Kunth would even have preferred this last classification; if the description of the fruit, made on the spot, and the nature of the milk, which is acrid in the urticeae, and sweet in the sapotas, did not seem to confirm our conjecture453. Bredemeyer saw, like us, the fruit, and not the flower of the cow tree. He asserts that he observed [sometimes?] two seeds, lying one against the other, as in the alligator pear-tree (Laurus persea). Perhaps this botanist had the intention of expressing the same conformation of the nucleus454 that Swartz indicates in the description of the brosimum —“nucleus bilobus aut bipartibilis.” We have mentioned the places where this remarkable tree grows: it will be easy for botanical travellers to procure the flower of the palo de vaca and to remove the doubts which still remain, of the family to which it belongs.]
Whilst the palo de vaca manifests the immense fecundity and the bounty455 of nature in the torrid zone, it also reminds us of the numerous causes which favour in those fine climates the careless indolence of man. Mungo Park has made known the butter-tree of Bambarra, which M. De Candolle suspects to be of the family of sapotas, as well as our milk-tree. The plantain, the sago-tree, and the mauritia of the Orinoco, are as much bread-trees as the rema of the South Sea. The fruits of the crescentia and the lecythis serve as vessels for containing food, while the spathes of the palms, and the bark of trees, furnish caps and garments without a seam. The knots, or rather the interior cells of the trunks of bamboos, supply ladders, and facilitate in a thousand ways the construction of a hut, and the fabrication of chairs, beds, and other articles of furniture that compose the wealth of a savage household. In the midst of this lavish456 vegetation, so varied in its productions, it requires very powerful motives457 to excite man to labour, to rouse him from his lethargy, and to unfold his intellectual faculties458.
Cacao and cotton are cultivated at Barbula. We there found, what is very rare in that country, two large cylindrical459 machines for separating the cotton from its seed; one put in motion by an hydraulic460 wheel, and the other by a wheel turned by mules. The overseer of the farm, who had constructed these machines, was a native of Merida. He was acquainted with the road that leads from Nueva Valencia, by the way of Guanare and Misagual, to Varinas; and thence by the ravine of Collejones, to the Paramo de Mucuchies and the mountains of Merida covered with eternal snows. The notions he gave us of the time requisite461 for going from Valencia by Varinas to the Sierra Nevada, and thence by the port of Torunos, and the Rio Santo Domingo, to San Fernando de Apure, were of infinite value to us. It can scarcely be imagined in Europe, how difficult it is to obtain accurate information in a country where the communications are so rare; and where distances are diminished or exaggerated according to the desire that may be felt to encourage the traveller, or to deter2 him from his purpose. I had resolved to visit the eastern extremity of the Cordilleras of New Grenada, where they lose themselves in the paramos of Timotes and Niquitao. I learned at Barbula, that this excursion would retard462 our arrival at the Orinoco thirty-five days. This delay appeared to us so much the longer, as the rains were expected to begin sooner than usual. We had the hope of examining afterwards a great number of mountains covered with perpetual snow, at Quito, Peru, and Mexico; and it appeared to me still more prudent97 to relinquish our project of visiting the mountains of Merida, since by so doing we might miss the real object of our journey, that of ascertaining463 by astronomical observations the point of communication between the Orinoco, the Rio Negro, and the river Amazon. We returned in consequence from Barbula to Guacara, to take leave of the family of the Marquis del Toro, and pass three days more on the borders of the lake.
It was the carnival464 season, and all was gaiety. The sports in which the people indulge, and which are called carnes tollendas,* assume occasionally somewhat of a savage character. Some led an ass10 loaded with water, and, where-ever they found a window open, inundated the apartment within by means of a pump. Others carried bags filled with hairs of picapica;* and blew the hair, which causes a great irritation of the skin, into the faces of those who passed by.
[* Or “farewell to flesh.” The word carnival has the same meaning, these sports being always held just before the commencement of Lent.]
[* Dolichos pruriens (cowage).]
From Guacara we returned to Nueva Valencia. We found there a few French emigrants465, the only ones we saw during five years passed in the Spanish colonies. Notwithstanding the ties of blood which unite the royal families of France and Spain, even French priests were not permitted to take refuge in that part of the New World, where man with such facility finds food and shelter. Beyond the Atlantic, the United States of America afford the only asylum466 to misfortune. A government, strong because it is free, confiding467 because it is just, has nothing to fear in giving refuge to the proscribed468.
We have endeavoured above to give some notions of the state of the cultivation of indigo, cotton, and sugar, in the province of Caracas. Before we quit the valley of Aragua and its neighbouring coast, it remains for us to speak of the cacao-plantations, which have at all times been considered as the principal source of the prosperity of those countries. The province of Caracas,* at the end of the eighteenth century, produced annually a hundred and fifty thousand fanegas, of which a hundred thousand were consumed in Spain, and thirty thousand in the province. Estimating a fanega of cacao at only twenty-five piastres for the price given at Cadiz, we find that the total value of the exportation of cacao, by the six ports of the Capitania General of Caracas, amounts to four million eight hundred thousand piastres. So important an object of commerce merits a careful discussion; and I flatter myself, that, from the great number of materials I have collected on all the branches of colonial agriculture, I shall be able to add something to the information published by M. Depons, in his valuable work on the provinces of Venezuela.
[* The province, not the capitania-general, consequently not including the cacao plantations of Cumana, the province of Barcelona, of Maracaybo, of Varinas, and of Spanish Guiana.]
The tree which produces the cacao is not at present found wild in the forests of Terra Firma to the north of the Orinoco; we began to find it only beyond the cataracts469 of Ature and Maypure. It abounds particularly near the banks of the Ventuari, and on the Upper Orinoco, between the Padamo and the Gehette. This scarcity of wild cacao-trees in South America, north of the latitude of 6°, is a very curious phenomenon of botanical geography, and yet little known. This phenomenon appears the more surprising, as, according to the annual produce of the harvest, the number of trees in full bearing in the cacao-plantations of Caracas, Nueva Barcelona, Venezuela, Varinas, and Maracaybo, is estimated at more than sixteen millions. The wild cacao-tree has many branches, and is covered with a tufted and dark foliage. It bears a very small fruit, like that variety which the ancient Mexicans called tlalcacahuatl. Transplanted into the conucos of the Indians of Cassiquiare and the Rio Negro, the wild tree preserves for several generations that force of vegetable life, which makes it bear fruit in the fourth year; while, in the province of Caracas, the harvest begins only the sixth, seventh, or eighth year. It is later in the inland parts than on the coasts and in the valley of Guapo. We met with no tribe on the Orinoco that prepared a beverage with the seeds of the cacao-tree. The savages suck the pulp of the pod, and throw away the seeds, which are often found in heaps where they have passed the night. Though chorote, which is a very weak infusion470 of cacao, is considered on the coast to be a very ancient beverage, no historical fact proves that chocolate, or any preparation whatever of cacao, was known to the natives of Venezuela before the arrival of the Spaniards. It appears to me more probable that the cacao-plantations of Caracas were suggested by those of Mexico and Guatimala; and that the Spaniards inhabiting Terra Firma learned the cultivation of the cacao-tree, sheltered in its youth by the foliage of the erythrina and plantain;* (This process of the Mexican cultivators, practised on the coast of Caracas, is described in the memoirs471 known under the title of “Relazione di certo Gentiluomo del Signor Cortez, Conquistadore del Messico.” (Ramusio, tome 2 page 134).) the fabrication of cakes of chocolatl, and the use of the liquid of the same name, in course of their communications with Mexico, Guatimala, and Nicaragua.
Down to the sixteenth century travellers differed in opinion respecting the chocolatl. Benzoni plainly says that it is a drink “fitter for hogs472 than men.”* The Jesuit Acosta asserts, that “the Spaniards who inhabit America are fond of chocolate to excess; but that it requires to be accustomed to that black beverage not to be disgusted at the mere sight of its froth, which swims on it like yeast473 on a fermented liquor.” He adds, “the cacao is a prejudice (una supersticion) of the Mexicans, as the coca is a prejudice of the Peruvians.” These opinions remind us of Madame de Sevigne’s prediction respecting the use of coffee. Fernando Cortez and his page, the gentilhombre del gran Conquistador, whose memoirs were published by Ramusio, on the contrary, highly praise chocolate, not only as an agreeable drink, though prepared cold,* but in particular as a nutritious474 substance. “He who has drunk one cup,” says the page of Fernando Cortez, “can travel a whole day without any other food, especially in very hot climates; for chocolate is by its nature cold and refreshing.” We shall not subscribe475 to the latter part of this assertion; but we shall soon have occasion, in our voyage on the Orinoco, and our excursions towards the summit of the Cordilleras, to celebrate the salutary properties of chocolate. It is easily conveyed and readily employed: as an aliment it contains a large quantity of nutritive and stimulating476 particles in a small compass. It has been said with truth, that in the East, rice, gum, and ghee (clarified butter), assist man in crossing the deserts; and so, in the New World, chocolate and the flour of maize, have rendered accessible to the traveller the table-lands of the Andes, and vast uninhabited forests.
[* Benzoni, Istoria del Mondo Nuovo, 1572 page 104.]
[* Father Gili has very clearly shown, from two passages in Torquemada (Monarquia Indiana, lib. 14) that the Mexicans prepared the infusion cold, and that the Spaniards introduced the custom of preparing chocolate by boiling water with the paste of cacao.]
The cacao harvest is extremely variable. The tree vegetates477 with such vigour that flowers spring out even from the roots, wherever the earth leaves them uncovered. It suffers from the north-east winds, even when they lower the temperature only a few degrees. The heavy showers that fall irregularly after the rainy season, during the winter months, from December to March, are also very hurtful to the cacao-tree. The proprietor of a plantation of fifty thousand trees often loses the value of more than four or five thousand piastres in cacao in one hour. Great humidity is favourable to the tree only when it augments progressively, and is for a long time uninterrupted. If, in the season of drought, the leaves and the young fruit be wetted by a violent shower, the fruit falls from the stem; for it appears that the vessels which absorb water break from being rendered turgid. Besides, the cacao-harvest is one of the most uncertain, on account of the fatal effects of inclement478 seasons, and the great number of worms, insects, birds, and quadrupeds,* which devour479 the pod of the cacao-tree; and this branch of agriculture has the disadvantage of obliging the new planter to wait eight or ten years for the fruit of his labours, and of yielding after all an article of very difficult preservation480.
[* Parrots, monkeys, agoutis, squirrels, and stags.]
The finest plantations of cacao are found in the province of Caracas, along the coast, between Caravalleda and the mouth of the Rio Tocuyo, in the valleys of Caucagua, Capaya, Curiepe, and Guapo; and in those of Cupira, between cape Conare and cape Unare, near Aroa, Barquesimeto, Guigue, and Uritucu. The cacao that grows on the banks of the Uritucu, at the entrance of the llanos, in the jurisdiction481 of San Sebastian de las Reyes, is considered to be of the finest quality. Next to the cacao of Uritucu comes that of Guigue, of Caucagua, of Capaya, and of Cupira. The merchants of Cadiz assign the first rank to the cacao of Caracas, immediately after that of Socomusco; and its price is generally from thirty to forty per cent higher than that of Guayaquil.
It is only since the middle of the seventeenth century, when the Dutch, tranquil399 possessors of the island of Curacoa, awakened482, by their smuggling483, the agricultural industry of the inhabitants of the neighbouring coasts, that cacao has become an object of exportation in the province of Caracas. We are ignorant of everything that passed in those countries before the establishment of the Biscay Company of Guipuzcoa, in 1728. No precise statistical484 data have reached us: we only know that the exportation of cacao from Caracas scarcely amounted, at the beginning of the eighteenth century, to thirty thousand fanegas a-year. From 1730 to 1748, the company sent to Spain eight hundred and fifty-eight thousand nine hundred and seventy-eight fanegas, which make, on an average, forty-seven thousand seven hundred fanegas a-year; the price of the fanega fell, in 1732, to forty-five piastres, when it had before kept at eighty piastres. In 1763 the cultivation had so much augmented, that the exportation rose to eighty thousand six hundred and fifty-nine fanegas.
In an official document, taken from the papers of the minister of finance, the annual produce (la cosecha) of the province of Caracas is estimated at a hundred and thirty-five thousand fanegas of cacao; thirty-three thousand of which are for home consumption, ten thousand for other Spanish colonies, seventy-seven thousand for the mother-country, fifteen thousand for the illicit commerce with the French, English, Dutch, and Danish colonies. From 1789 to 1793, the importation of cacao from Caracas into Spain was, on an average, seventy-seven thousand seven hundred and nineteen fanegas a-year, of which sixty-five thousand seven hundred and sixty-six were consumed in the country, and eleven thousand nine hundred and fifty-three exported to France, Italy, and Germany.
The late wars have had much more fatal effects on the cacao trade of Caracas than on that of Guayaquil. On account of the increase of price, less cacao of the first quality has been consumed in Europe. Instead of mixing, as was done formerly for common chocolate, one quarter of the cacao of Caracas, with three-quarters of that of Guayaquil, the latter has been employed pure in Spain. We must here remark, that a great deal of cacao of an inferior quality, such as that of Maranon, the Rio Negro, Honduras, and the island of St. Lucia, bears the name, in commerce, of Guayaquil cacao. The exportation from that port amounts only to sixty thousand fanegas; consequently it is two-thirds less than that of the ports of the Capitania–General of Caracas.
Though the plantations of cacao have augmented in the provinces of Cumana, Barcelona, and Maracaybo, in proportion as they have diminished in the province of Caracas, it is still believed that, in general, this ancient branch of agricultural industry gradually declines. In many parts coffee and cotton-trees progressively take place of the cacao, of which the lingering harvests weary the patience of the cultivator. It is also asserted, that the new plantations of cacao are less productive than the old; the trees do not acquire the same vigour, and yield later and less abundant fruit. The soil is still said to be exhausted485; but probably it is rather the atmosphere that is changed by the progress of clearing and cultivation. The air that reposes486 on a virgin soil covered with forests is loaded with humidity and those gaseous487 mixtures that serve for the nutriment of plants, and arise from the decomposition of organic substances. When a country has been long subjected to cultivation, it is not the proportions between the azote and oxygen that vary. The constituent488 bases of the atmosphere remain unaltered; but it no longer contains, in a state of suspension, those binary489 and ternary mixtures of carbon, hydrogen, and nitrogen, which a virgin soil exhales490, and which are regarded as a source of fecundity. The air, purer and less charged with miasmata and heterogeneous491 emanations, becomes at the same time drier. The elasticity492 of the vapours undergoes a sensible diminution. On land long cleared, and consequently little favourable to the cultivation of the cacao-tree (as, for instance, in the West India Islands), the fruit is almost as small as that of the wild cacao-tree. It is on the banks of the Upper Orinoco, after having crossed the Llanos, that we find the true country of the cacao-tree; thick forests, in which, on a virgin soil, and surrounded by an atmosphere continually humid, the trees furnish, from the fourth year, abundant crops. Wherever the soil is not exhausted, the fruit has become by cultivation larger and bitter, but also later.
On seeing the produce of cacao gradually diminish in Terra Firma, it may be inquired, whether the consumption will diminish in the same proportion in Spain, Italy, and the rest of Europe; or whether it be not probable, that by the destruction of the cacao plantations, the price will augment sufficiently to rouse anew the industry of the cultivator. This latter opinion is generally admitted by those who deplore493, at Caracas, the diminution of so ancient and profitable a branch of commerce. In proportion as civilization extends towards the humid forests of the interior, the banks of the Orinoco and the Amazon, or towards the valleys that furrow the eastern declivity of the Andes, the new planters will find lands and an atmosphere equally favourable to the culture of the cacao-tree.
The Spaniards, in general, dislike a mixture of vanilla494 with the cacao, as irritating the nervous system; the fruit, therefore, of that orchideous plant is entirely neglected in the province of Caracas, though abundant crops of it might be gathered on the moist and feverish495 coast between Porto Cabello and Ocumare; especially at Turiamo, where the fruits of the Epidendrum vanilla attain the length of eleven or twelve inches. The English and the Anglo–Americans often seek to make purchases of vanilla at the port of La Guayra, but the merchants procure with difficulty a very small quantity. In the valleys that descend from the chain of the coast towards the Caribbean Sea, in the province of Truxillo, as well as in the Missions of Guiana, near the cataracts of the Orinoco, a great quantity of vanilla might be collected; the produce of which would be still more abundant, if, according to the practice of the Mexicans, the plant were disengaged, from time to time, from the creeping plants by which it is entwined and stifled496.
The hot and fertile valleys of the Cordillera of the coast of Venezuela occupy a tract74 of land which, on the west, towards the lake of Maracaybo, displays a remarkable variety of scenery. I shall exhibit in one view, to close this chapter, the facts I have been able to collect respecting the quality of the soil and the metallic497 riches of the districts of Aroa, of Barquesimeto, and of Carora.
From the Sierra Nevada of Merida, and the paramos of Niquitao, Bocono, and Las Rosas,* (Many travellers, who were monks, have asserted that the little Paramo de Las Rosas, the height of which appears to be more than 1,600 toises, is covered with rosemary, and the red and white roses of Europe grow wild there. These roses are gathered to decorate the altars in the neighbouring villages on the festivals of the church. By what accident has our Rosa centifolia become wild in this country, while we nowhere found it in the Andes of Quito and Peru? Can it really be the rose-tree of our garden?) which contain the valuable bark-tree, the eastern Cordillera of New Granada* decreases in height so rapidly, that, between the ninth and tenth degrees of latitude, it forms only a chain of little mountains, which, stretching to the north-east by the Altar and Torito, separates the rivers that join the Apure and the Orinoco from those numerous rivers that flow either into the Caribbean Sea or the lake of Maracaybo. On this dividing ridge are built the towns of Nirgua, San Felipe el Fuerte, Barquesimeto, and Tocuyo. The first three are in a very hot climate; but Tocuyo enjoys great coolness, and we heard with surprise, that, beneath so fine a sky, the inhabitants have a strong propensity498 to suicide. The ground rises towards the south; for Truxillo, the lake of Urao, from which carbonate of soda is extracted, and La Grita, all to the east of the Cordillera, though no farther distant, are four or five hundred toises high.
[* The bark exported from the port of Maracaybo does not come from the territory of Venezuela, but from the mountains of Pamplona in New Grenada, being brought down the Rio de San Faustino, that flows into the lake of Maracaybo. (Pombo, Noticias sobre las Quinas, 1814 page 65.) Some is collected near Merida, in the ravine of Viscucucuy.]
On examining the law which the primitive strata of the Cordillera of the coast follow in their dip, we believe we recognize one of the causes of the extreme humidity of the land bounded by this Cordillera and the ocean. The dip of the strata is most frequently to the north-west; so that the waters flow in that direction on the ledges of rock; and form, as we have stated above, that multitude of torrents and rivers, the inundations of which become so fatal to the health of the inhabitants, from cape Codera as far as the lake of Maracaybo.
Among the rivers which descend north-east toward the coast of Porto Cabello, and La Punta de Hicacos, the most remarkable are those of Tocuyo, Aroa, and Yaracuy. Were it not for the miasmata which infect the atmosphere, the valleys of Aroa and of Yaracuy would perhaps be more populous499 than those of Aragua. Navigable rivers would even give the former the advantage of facilitating the exportation of their own crops of sugar and cacao, and that of the productions of the neighbouring lands; as the wheat of Quibor, the cattle of Monai, and the copper of Aroa. The mines from which this copper is extracted, are in a lateral valley, opening into that of Aroa; and which is less hot, and less unhealthy, than the ravines nearer the sea. In the latter the Indians have their gold-washings, and the soil conceals500 rich copper-ores, which no one has yet attempted to extract. The ancient mines of Aroa, after having been long neglected, have been wrought501 anew by the care of Don Antonio Henriquez, whom we met at San Fernando on the borders of the Apure. The total produce of metallic copper is twelve or fifteen hundred quintals a year. This copper, known at Cadiz by the name of Caracas copper, is of excellent quality. It is even preferred to that of Sweden, and of Coquimbo in Chile. Part of the copper of Aroa is employed for making bells, which are cast on the spot. Some ores of silver have been recently discovered between Aroa and Nirgua, near Guanita, in the mountain of San Pablo. Grains of gold are found in all the mountainous lands between the Rio Yaracuy, the town of San Felipe, Nirgua, and Barquesimeto; particularly in the Rio de Santa Cruz, in which the Indian gold-gatherers have sometimes found lumps of the value of four or five piastres. Do the neighbouring rocks of mica-slate and gneiss contain veins502? or is the gold disseminated here, as in the granites of Guadarama in Spain, and of the Fichtelberg in Franconia, throughout the whole mass of the rock? Possibly the waters, in filtering through it, bring together the disseminated grains of gold; in which case every attempt to work the rock would be useless. In the Savana de la Miel, near the town of Barquesimeto, a shaft503 has been sunk in a black shining slate resembling ampelite. The minerals extracted from this shaft, which were sent to me at Caracas, were quartz, non-auriferous pyrites, and carbonated lead, crystallized in needles of a silky lustre.
In the early times of the conquest the working of the mines of Nirgua and of Buria* was begun, notwithstanding the incursions of the warlike nation of the Giraharas. In this very district the accumulation of negro slaves in 1553 gave rise to an event bearing some analogy to the insurrection in St. Domingo. A negro slave excited an insurrection among the miners of the Real de San Felipe de Buria. He retired into the woods, and founded, with two hundred of his companions, a town, where he was proclaimed king. Miguel, this new king, was a friend to pomp and parade. He caused his wife Guiomar, to assume the title of queen; and, according to Oviedo, he appointed ministers and counsellors of state, officers of the royal household, and even a negro bishop504. He soon after ventured to attack the neighbouring town of Nueva Segovia de Barquesimeto; but, being repulsed by Diego de Losada, he perished in the conflict. This African monarchy505 was succeeded at Nirgua by a republic of Zamboes, the descendants of negroes and Indians. The whole municipality (cabildo) is composed of men of colour to whom the king of Spain has given the title of “his faithful and loyal subjects, the Zamboes of Nirgua.” Few families of Whites will inhabit a country where the system of government is so adverse506 to their pretensions507; and the little town is called in derision La republica de Zambos y Mulatos.
[* The valley of Buria, and the little river of the same name, communicate with the valley of the Rio Coxede, or the Rio de Barquesimeto.]
If the hot valleys of Aroa, of Yaracuy, and of the Rio Tocuyo, celebrated for their excellent timber, be rendered feverish by luxuriance of vegetation, and extreme atmospheric humidity, it is different in the savannahs of Monai and Carora. These Llanos are separated by the mountainous tract of Tocuyo and Nirgua from the great plains of La Portuguesa and Calabozo. It is very extraordinary to see barren savannahs loaded with miasmata. No marshy ground is found there, but several phenomena indicate a disengagement of hydrogen.* When travellers, who are not acquainted with natural inflammable gases, are shown the Cueva del Serrito de Monai, the people of the country love to frighten them by setting fire to the gaseous combination which is constantly accumulated in the upper part of the cavern508. May we attribute the insalubrity of the atmosphere to the same causes as those which operate in the plains between Tivoli and Rome, namely, disengagements of sulphuretted hydrogen?* Possibly, also, the mountainous lands, near the llanos of Monai, may have a baneful509 influence on the surrounding plains. The south-easterly winds may convey to them the putrid510 exhalations that rise from the ravine of Villegas, and from La Sienega de Cabra, between Carora and Carache. I am desirous of collecting every circumstance having a relation to the salubrity of the air; for, in a matter so obscure, it is only by the comparison of a great number of phenomena, that we can hope to discover the truth.
[* What is that luminous511 phenomenon known under the name of the Lantern (farol) of Maracaybo, which is perceived every night toward the seaside as well as in the inland parts, at Merida for example, where M. Palacios observed it during two years? The distance, greater than 40 leagues, at which the light is observed, has led to the supposition that it might be owing to the effects of a thunderstorm, or of electrical explosions which might daily take place in a pass in the mountains. It is asserted that, on approaching the farol, the rolling of thunder is heard. Others vaguely512 allege513 that it is an air-volcano, and that asphaltic soils, like those of Mena, cause these inflammable exhalations which are so constant in their appearance. The phenomenon is observed on a mountainous and uninhabited spot, on the borders of the Rio Catatumbo, near the junction with the Rio Sulia. The situation of the farol is such that, being nearly in the meridian of the opening (boca) of the lake of Maracaybo, navigators are guided by it as by a lighthouse.]
[* Don Carlos del Pozo has discovered in this district, at the bottom of the Quebrada de Moroturo, a stratum of clayey earth, black, strongly soiling the fingers, emitting a powerful smell of sulphur, and inflaming spontaneously when slightly moistened and exposed for a long time to the rays of the tropical sun. The detonation514 of this muddy substance is very violent.]
The barren yet feverish savannahs, extending from Barquesimeto to the eastern shore of the lake of Maracaybo, are partly covered with cactus; but the good silvester-cochineal, known by the vague name of grana de Carora, comes from a more temperate region, between Carora and Truxillo, and particularly from the valley of the Rio Mucuju,* to the east of Merida. The inhabitants altogether neglect this production, so much sought for in commerce.
[* This little river descends515 from the Paramo de los Conejos, and flows into the Rio Albarregas.]
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granitic
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花岗石的,由花岗岩形成的 | |
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2
deter
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vt.阻止,使不敢,吓住 | |
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dykes
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abbr.diagonal wire cutters 斜线切割机n.堤( dyke的名词复数 );坝;堰;沟 | |
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n.结构,布局,形态,(计算机)配置 | |
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5
peculiar
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adj.古怪的,异常的;特殊的,特有的 | |
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6
evaporation
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n.蒸发,消失 | |
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7
cultivation
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n.耕作,培养,栽培(法),养成 | |
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8
subterranean
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adj.地下的,地表下的 | |
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9
entirely
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ad.全部地,完整地;完全地,彻底地 | |
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10
ass
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n.驴;傻瓜,蠢笨的人 | |
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11
remarkable
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adj.显著的,异常的,非凡的,值得注意的 | |
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12
embellish
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v.装饰,布置;给…添加细节,润饰 | |
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13
embellished
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v.美化( embellish的过去式和过去分词 );装饰;修饰;润色 | |
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14
drawn
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v.拖,拉,拔出;adj.憔悴的,紧张的 | |
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15
villa
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n.别墅,城郊小屋 | |
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16
monotonous
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adj.单调的,一成不变的,使人厌倦的 | |
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17
cane
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n.手杖,细长的茎,藤条;v.以杖击,以藤编制的 | |
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18
shrubs
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灌木( shrub的名词复数 ) | |
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19
shrub
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n.灌木,灌木丛 | |
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20
scattered
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adj.分散的,稀疏的;散步的;疏疏落落的 | |
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21
clumps
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n.(树、灌木、植物等的)丛、簇( clump的名词复数 );(土、泥等)团;块;笨重的脚步声v.(树、灌木、植物等的)丛、簇( clump的第三人称单数 );(土、泥等)团;块;笨重的脚步声 | |
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22
cape
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n.海角,岬;披肩,短披风 | |
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23
mingling
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adj.混合的 | |
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24
tint
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n.淡色,浅色;染发剂;vt.着以淡淡的颜色 | |
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25
granite
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adj.花岗岩,花岗石 | |
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26
stony
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adj.石头的,多石头的,冷酷的,无情的 | |
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27
abruptly
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adv.突然地,出其不意地 | |
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28
abrupt
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adj.突然的,意外的;唐突的,鲁莽的 | |
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29
fixed
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adj.固定的,不变的,准备好的;(计算机)固定的 | |
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30
withered
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adj. 枯萎的,干瘪的,(人身体的部分器官)因病萎缩的或未发育良好的 动词wither的过去式和过去分词形式 | |
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31
ERECTED
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adj. 直立的,竖立的,笔直的 vt. 使 ... 直立,建立 | |
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32
enchanting
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a.讨人喜欢的 | |
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33
civilized
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a.有教养的,文雅的 | |
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34
majestic
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adj.雄伟的,壮丽的,庄严的,威严的,崇高的 | |
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35
infinitely
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adv.无限地,无穷地 | |
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36
varied
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adj.多样的,多变化的 | |
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37
derive
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v.取得;导出;引申;来自;源自;出自 | |
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38
mere
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adj.纯粹的;仅仅,只不过 | |
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39
colossal
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adj.异常的,庞大的 | |
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40
cascade
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n.小瀑布,喷流;层叠;vi.成瀑布落下 | |
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41
cascades
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倾泻( cascade的名词复数 ); 小瀑布(尤指一连串瀑布中的一支); 瀑布状物; 倾泻(或涌出)的东西 | |
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42
temperate
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adj.温和的,温带的,自我克制的,不过分的 | |
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43
admiration
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n.钦佩,赞美,羡慕 | |
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44
picturesque
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adj.美丽如画的,(语言)生动的,绘声绘色的 | |
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45
celebrity
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n.名人,名流;著名,名声,名望 | |
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46
phenomena
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n.现象 | |
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47
well-being
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n.安康,安乐,幸福 | |
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48
diminution
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n.减少;变小 | |
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49
equilibrium
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n.平衡,均衡,相称,均势,平静 | |
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50
apprehend
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vt.理解,领悟,逮捕,拘捕,忧虑 | |
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51
astronomical
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adj.天文学的,(数字)极大的 | |
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52
mica
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n.云母 | |
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53
latitudes
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纬度 | |
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54
latitude
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n.纬度,行动或言论的自由(范围),(pl.)地区 | |
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55
emphatic
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adj.强调的,着重的;无可置疑的,明显的 | |
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56
agitated
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adj.被鼓动的,不安的 | |
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57
sufficiently
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adv.足够地,充分地 | |
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58
retired
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adj.隐退的,退休的,退役的 | |
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59
considerably
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adv.极大地;相当大地;在很大程度上 | |
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60
seamen
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n.海员 | |
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61
geographical
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adj.地理的;地区(性)的 | |
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62
itinerary
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n.行程表,旅行路线;旅行计划 | |
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63
meridian
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adj.子午线的;全盛期的 | |
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64
attained
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(通常经过努力)实现( attain的过去式和过去分词 ); 达到; 获得; 达到(某年龄、水平、状况) | |
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65
attain
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vt.达到,获得,完成 | |
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66
rupture
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n.破裂;(关系的)决裂;v.(使)破裂 | |
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67
circumspect
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adj.慎重的,谨慎的 | |
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68
eloquent
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adj.雄辩的,口才流利的;明白显示出的 | |
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69
bosom
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n.胸,胸部;胸怀;内心;adj.亲密的 | |
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70
promontories
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n.岬,隆起,海角( promontory的名词复数 ) | |
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71
alpine
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adj.高山的;n.高山植物 | |
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72
undoubtedly
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adv.确实地,无疑地 | |
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73
tracts
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大片土地( tract的名词复数 ); 地带; (体内的)道; (尤指宣扬宗教、伦理或政治的)短文 | |
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74
tract
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n.传单,小册子,大片(土地或森林) | |
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75
formerly
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adv.从前,以前 | |
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76
inundated
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v.淹没( inundate的过去式和过去分词 );(洪水般地)涌来;充满;给予或交予(太多事物)使难以应付 | |
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77
canes
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n.(某些植物,如竹或甘蔗的)茎( cane的名词复数 );(用于制作家具等的)竹竿;竹杖 | |
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78
receding
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v.逐渐远离( recede的现在分词 );向后倾斜;自原处后退或避开别人的注视;尤指问题 | |
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79
extremity
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n.末端,尽头;尽力;终极;极度 | |
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80
promontory
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n.海角;岬 | |
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81
torrents
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n.倾注;奔流( torrent的名词复数 );急流;爆发;连续不断 | |
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82
torrent
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n.激流,洪流;爆发,(话语等的)连发 | |
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83
outlet
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n.出口/路;销路;批发商店;通风口;发泄 | |
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84
grottos
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n.(吸引人的)岩洞,洞穴,(人挖的)洞室( grotto的名词复数 ) | |
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85
oblique
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adj.斜的,倾斜的,无诚意的,不坦率的 | |
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86
gulf
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n.海湾;深渊,鸿沟;分歧,隔阂 | |
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87
outlets
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n.出口( outlet的名词复数 );经销店;插座;廉价经销店 | |
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88
lateral
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adj.侧面的,旁边的 | |
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89
indigo
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n.靛青,靛蓝 | |
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90
concur
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v.同意,意见一致,互助,同时发生 | |
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91
calamities
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n.灾祸,灾难( calamity的名词复数 );不幸之事 | |
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92
scarcity
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n.缺乏,不足,萧条 | |
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93
perspiration
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n.汗水;出汗 | |
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94
misty
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adj.雾蒙蒙的,有雾的 | |
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95
copiousness
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n.丰裕,旺盛 | |
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96
diffused
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散布的,普及的,扩散的 | |
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97
prudent
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adj.谨慎的,有远见的,精打细算的 | |
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98
moss
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n.苔,藓,地衣 | |
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99
impeded
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阻碍,妨碍,阻止( impede的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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100
augment
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vt.(使)增大,增加,增长,扩张 | |
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101
augmenting
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使扩张 | |
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102
furrow
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n.沟;垄沟;轨迹;车辙;皱纹 | |
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103
situated
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adj.坐落在...的,处于某种境地的 | |
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104
aperture
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n.孔,隙,窄的缺口 | |
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105
interspersed
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adj.[医]散开的;点缀的v.intersperse的过去式和过去分词 | |
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106
parasite
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n.寄生虫;寄生菌;食客 | |
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107
enveloped
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v.包围,笼罩,包住( envelop的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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108
descend
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vt./vi.传下来,下来,下降 | |
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109
descending
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n. 下行 adj. 下降的 | |
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110
uncertainty
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n.易变,靠不住,不确知,不确定的事物 | |
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111
deductions
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扣除( deduction的名词复数 ); 结论; 扣除的量; 推演 | |
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112
recollect
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v.回忆,想起,记起,忆起,记得 | |
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113
marshes
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n.沼泽,湿地( marsh的名词复数 ) | |
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114
repose
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v.(使)休息;n.安息 | |
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115
dense
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a.密集的,稠密的,浓密的;密度大的 | |
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116
diffusion
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n.流布;普及;散漫 | |
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117
saturated
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a.饱和的,充满的 | |
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118
ardent
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adj.热情的,热烈的,强烈的,烈性的 | |
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119
habitual
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adj.习惯性的;通常的,惯常的 | |
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120
habitually
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ad.习惯地,通常地 | |
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121
trenches
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深沟,地沟( trench的名词复数 ); 战壕 | |
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122
trench
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n./v.(挖)沟,(挖)战壕 | |
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123
mingled
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混合,混入( mingle的过去式和过去分词 ); 混进,与…交往[联系] | |
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124
proprietor
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n.所有人;业主;经营者 | |
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125
plantation
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n.种植园,大农场 | |
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126
declivity
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n.下坡,倾斜面 | |
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127
ridge
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n.山脊;鼻梁;分水岭 | |
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128
lapse
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n.过失,流逝,失效,抛弃信仰,间隔;vi.堕落,停止,失效,流逝;vt.使失效 | |
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129
scooped
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v.抢先报道( scoop的过去式和过去分词 );(敏捷地)抱起;抢先获得;用铲[勺]等挖(洞等) | |
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130
inundates
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v.淹没( inundate的第三人称单数 );(洪水般地)涌来;充满;给予或交予(太多事物)使难以应付 | |
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131
geographers
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地理学家( geographer的名词复数 ) | |
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132
analogous
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adj.相似的;类似的 | |
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133
worthy
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adj.(of)值得的,配得上的;有价值的 | |
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134
remains
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n.剩余物,残留物;遗体,遗迹 | |
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135
chimerical
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adj.荒诞不经的,梦幻的 | |
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136
clot
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n.凝块;v.使凝成块 | |
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137
disappearance
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n.消失,消散,失踪 | |
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138
deserted
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adj.荒芜的,荒废的,无人的,被遗弃的 | |
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139
barometric
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大气压力 | |
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140
forth
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adv.向前;向外,往外 | |
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141
fathoms
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英寻( fathom的名词复数 ) | |
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142
Mediterranean
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adj.地中海的;地中海沿岸的 | |
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143
perpendicular
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adj.垂直的,直立的;n.垂直线,垂直的位置 | |
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144
abode
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n.住处,住所 | |
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145
apparatus
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n.装置,器械;器具,设备 | |
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146
strata
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n.地层(复数);社会阶层 | |
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147
glaciers
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冰河,冰川( glacier的名词复数 ) | |
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148
density
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n.密集,密度,浓度 | |
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149
stratum
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n.地层,社会阶层 | |
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150
Augmented
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adj.增音的 动词augment的过去式和过去分词形式 | |
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151
annually
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adv.一年一次,每年 | |
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152
primitive
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adj.原始的;简单的;n.原(始)人,原始事物 | |
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153
elevations
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(水平或数量)提高( elevation的名词复数 ); 高地; 海拔; 提升 | |
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154
superfluous
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adj.过多的,过剩的,多余的 | |
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155
ligneous
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adj.木质的,木头的 | |
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156
solitude
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n. 孤独; 独居,荒僻之地,幽静的地方 | |
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157
northward
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adv.向北;n.北方的地区 | |
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158
insipid
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adj.无味的,枯燥乏味的,单调的 | |
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159
voracious
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adj.狼吞虎咽的,贪婪的 | |
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160
procuring
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v.(努力)取得, (设法)获得( procure的现在分词 );拉皮条 | |
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161
reptile
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n.爬行动物;两栖动物 | |
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162
attains
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(通常经过努力)实现( attain的第三人称单数 ); 达到; 获得; 达到(某年龄、水平、状况) | |
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163
alligator
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n.短吻鳄(一种鳄鱼) | |
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164
alligators
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n.短吻鳄( alligator的名词复数 ) | |
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165
abounds
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v.大量存在,充满,富于( abound的第三人称单数 ) | |
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166
abound
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vi.大量存在;(in,with)充满,富于 | |
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167
opaque
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adj.不透光的;不反光的,不传导的;晦涩的 | |
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168
quartz
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n.石英 | |
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169
vein
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n.血管,静脉;叶脉,纹理;情绪;vt.使成脉络 | |
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170
decompose
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vi.分解;vt.(使)腐败,(使)腐烂 | |
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171
porous
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adj.可渗透的,多孔的 | |
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172
cellular
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adj.移动的;细胞的,由细胞组成的 | |
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173
perfectly
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adv.完美地,无可非议地,彻底地 | |
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174
nourishment
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n.食物,营养品;营养情况 | |
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175
aquatic
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adj.水生的,水栖的 | |
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176
conflagrations
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n.大火(灾)( conflagration的名词复数 ) | |
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177
lava
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n.熔岩,火山岩 | |
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178
overflowing
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n. 溢出物,溢流 adj. 充沛的,充满的 动词overflow的现在分词形式 | |
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179
reposing
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v.将(手臂等)靠在某人(某物)上( repose的现在分词 ) | |
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180
delightful
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adj.令人高兴的,使人快乐的 | |
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181
contemplate
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vt.盘算,计议;周密考虑;注视,凝视 | |
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182
spherical
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adj.球形的;球面的 | |
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183
ribs
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n.肋骨( rib的名词复数 );(船或屋顶等的)肋拱;肋骨状的东西;(织物的)凸条花纹 | |
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184
astringent
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adj.止血的,收缩的,涩的;n.收缩剂,止血剂 | |
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185
sediment
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n.沉淀,沉渣,沉积(物) | |
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186
marshy
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adj.沼泽的 | |
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187
foliage
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n.叶子,树叶,簇叶 | |
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188
presaged
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v.预示,预兆( presage的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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189
scorched
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烧焦,烤焦( scorch的过去式和过去分词 ); 使(植物)枯萎,把…晒枯; 高速行驶; 枯焦 | |
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190
plantations
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n.种植园,大农场( plantation的名词复数 ) | |
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191
thermal
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adj.热的,由热造成的;保暖的 | |
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192
gush
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v.喷,涌;滔滔不绝(说话);n.喷,涌流;迸发 | |
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193
rugged
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adj.高低不平的,粗糙的,粗壮的,强健的 | |
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194
lustre
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n.光亮,光泽;荣誉 | |
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195
fissures
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n.狭长裂缝或裂隙( fissure的名词复数 );裂伤;分歧;分裂v.裂开( fissure的第三人称单数 ) | |
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196
slate
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n.板岩,石板,石片,石板色,候选人名单;adj.暗蓝灰色的,含板岩的;vt.用石板覆盖,痛打,提名,预订 | |
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197
funnel
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n.漏斗;烟囱;v.汇集 | |
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198
funnels
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漏斗( funnel的名词复数 ); (轮船,火车等的)烟囱 | |
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199
rivulet
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n.小溪,小河 | |
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200
intervals
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n.[军事]间隔( interval的名词复数 );间隔时间;[数学]区间;(戏剧、电影或音乐会的)幕间休息 | |
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201
apertures
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n.孔( aperture的名词复数 );隙缝;(照相机的)光圈;孔径 | |
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202
emission
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n.发出物,散发物;发出,散发 | |
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203
inflaming
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v.(使)变红,发怒,过热( inflame的现在分词 ) | |
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204
nausea
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n.作呕,恶心;极端的憎恶(或厌恶) | |
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205
prevailing
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adj.盛行的;占优势的;主要的 | |
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206
atmospheric
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adj.大气的,空气的;大气层的;大气所引起的 | |
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207
chapel
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n.小教堂,殡仪馆 | |
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208
combustion
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n.燃烧;氧化;骚动 | |
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209
vessel
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n.船舶;容器,器皿;管,导管,血管 | |
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210
precipitate
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adj.突如其来的;vt.使突然发生;n.沉淀物 | |
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211
copper
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n.铜;铜币;铜器;adj.铜(制)的;(紫)铜色的 | |
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212
destitute
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adj.缺乏的;穷困的 | |
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213
soda
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n.苏打水;汽水 | |
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214
insignificant
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adj.无关紧要的,可忽略的,无意义的 | |
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215
contented
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adj.满意的,安心的,知足的 | |
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216
decomposition
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n. 分解, 腐烂, 崩溃 | |
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217
calcium
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n.钙(化学符号Ca) | |
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218
magnesium
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n.镁 | |
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219
granites
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花岗岩,花岗石( granite的名词复数 ) | |
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220
vegetate
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v.无所事事地过活 | |
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221
membranaceous
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adj.膜的,膜状的 | |
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222
stimulus
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n.刺激,刺激物,促进因素,引起兴奋的事物 | |
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223
gushes
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n.涌出,迸发( gush的名词复数 )v.喷,涌( gush的第三人称单数 );滔滔不绝地说话 | |
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224
crevice
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n.(岩石、墙等)裂缝;缺口 | |
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225
refreshing
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adj.使精神振作的,使人清爽的,使人喜欢的 | |
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226
irritation
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n.激怒,恼怒,生气 | |
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227
slung
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抛( sling的过去式和过去分词 ); 吊挂; 遣送; 押往 | |
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228
striated
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adj.有纵线,条纹的 | |
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229
maturity
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n.成熟;完成;(支票、债券等)到期 | |
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230
germinated
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v.(使)发芽( germinate的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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231
lobes
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n.耳垂( lobe的名词复数 );(器官的)叶;肺叶;脑叶 | |
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232
virtues
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美德( virtue的名词复数 ); 德行; 优点; 长处 | |
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233
adverting
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引起注意(advert的现在分词形式) | |
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234
invalids
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病人,残疾者( invalid的名词复数 ) | |
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235
favourable
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adj.赞成的,称赞的,有利的,良好的,顺利的 | |
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236
lizards
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n.蜥蜴( lizard的名词复数 ) | |
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237
harangue
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n.慷慨冗长的训话,言辞激烈的讲话 | |
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238
disinterested
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adj.不关心的,不感兴趣的 | |
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239
inspector
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n.检查员,监察员,视察员 | |
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240
pulp
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n.果肉,纸浆;v.化成纸浆,除去...果肉,制成纸浆 | |
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241
swell
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vi.膨胀,肿胀;增长,增强 | |
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242
erecting
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v.使直立,竖起( erect的现在分词 );建立 | |
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243
refreshments
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n.点心,便餐;(会议后的)简单茶点招 待 | |
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244
vault
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n.拱形圆顶,地窖,地下室 | |
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245
jaguar
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n.美洲虎 | |
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246
mules
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骡( mule的名词复数 ); 拖鞋; 顽固的人; 越境运毒者 | |
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247
ornaments
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n.装饰( ornament的名词复数 );点缀;装饰品;首饰v.装饰,点缀,美化( ornament的第三人称单数 ) | |
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248
conservatories
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n.(培植植物的)温室,暖房( conservatory的名词复数 ) | |
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249
ripens
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v.成熟,使熟( ripen的第三人称单数 ) | |
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250
wholesale
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n.批发;adv.以批发方式;vt.批发,成批出售 | |
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251
impure
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adj.不纯净的,不洁的;不道德的,下流的 | |
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252
fermented
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v.(使)发酵( ferment的过去式和过去分词 );(使)激动;骚动;骚扰 | |
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253
beverage
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n.(水,酒等之外的)饮料 | |
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254
antiquity
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n.古老;高龄;古物,古迹 | |
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255
maize
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n.玉米 | |
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256
auspices
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n.资助,赞助 | |
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257
monks
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n.修道士,僧侣( monk的名词复数 ) | |
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258
thither
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adv.向那里;adj.在那边的,对岸的 | |
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259
corrosive
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adj.腐蚀性的;有害的;恶毒的 | |
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260
isles
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岛( isle的名词复数 ) | |
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261
conveyance
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n.(不动产等的)转让,让与;转让证书;传送;运送;表达;(正)运输工具 | |
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262
vessels
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n.血管( vessel的名词复数 );船;容器;(具有特殊品质或接受特殊品质的)人 | |
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263
allotted
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分配,拨给,摊派( allot的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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264
advantageous
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adj.有利的;有帮助的 | |
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265
isthmus
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n.地峡 | |
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266
moors
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v.停泊,系泊(船只)( moor的第三人称单数 ) | |
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267
predilection
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n.偏好 | |
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268
pillage
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v.抢劫;掠夺;n.抢劫,掠夺;掠夺物 | |
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269
constrained
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adj.束缚的,节制的 | |
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270
inhuman
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adj.残忍的,不人道的,无人性的 | |
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271
grove
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n.林子,小树林,园林 | |
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272
rustles
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n.发出沙沙的声音( rustle的名词复数 )v.发出沙沙的声音( rustle的第三人称单数 ) | |
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273
aridity
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n.干旱,乏味;干燥性;荒芜 | |
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274
augments
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增加,提高,扩大( augment的名词复数 ) | |
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275
limestone
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n.石灰石 | |
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276
smitten
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猛打,重击,打击( smite的过去分词 ) | |
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277
sterility
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n.不生育,不结果,贫瘠,消毒,无菌 | |
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278
inquiry
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n.打听,询问,调查,查问 | |
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279
rotation
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n.旋转;循环,轮流 | |
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280
virgin
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n.处女,未婚女子;adj.未经使用的;未经开发的 | |
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281
penetrate
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v.透(渗)入;刺入,刺穿;洞察,了解 | |
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282
fecundity
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n.生产力;丰富 | |
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283
lesser
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adj.次要的,较小的;adv.较小地,较少地 | |
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284
alimentary
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adj.饮食的,营养的 | |
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285
forage
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n.(牛马的)饲料,粮草;v.搜寻,翻寻 | |
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286
accomplished
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adj.有才艺的;有造诣的;达到了的 | |
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287
forsake
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vt.遗弃,抛弃;舍弃,放弃 | |
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288
inveterate
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adj.积习已深的,根深蒂固的 | |
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289
embarkation
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n. 乘船, 搭机, 开船 | |
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290
embark
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vi.乘船,着手,从事,上飞机 | |
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291
serene
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adj. 安详的,宁静的,平静的 | |
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292
prospered
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成功,兴旺( prosper的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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293
myriads
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n.无数,极大数量( myriad的名词复数 ) | |
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294
infest
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v.大批出没于;侵扰;寄生于 | |
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295
excavations
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n.挖掘( excavation的名词复数 );开凿;开凿的洞穴(或山路等);(发掘出来的)古迹 | |
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296
ravaged
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毁坏( ravage的过去式和过去分词 ); 蹂躏; 劫掠; 抢劫 | |
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297
larvae
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n.幼虫 | |
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298
mediator
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n.调解人,中介人 | |
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299
celebrated
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adj.有名的,声誉卓著的 | |
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300
destined
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adj.命中注定的;(for)以…为目的地的 | |
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301
inscription
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n.(尤指石块上的)刻印文字,铭文,碑文 | |
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302
termites
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n.白蚁( termite的名词复数 ) | |
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303
discords
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不和(discord的复数形式) | |
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304
savages
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未开化的人,野蛮人( savage的名词复数 ) | |
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305
savage
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adj.野蛮的;凶恶的,残暴的;n.未开化的人 | |
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306
deposition
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n.免职,罢官;作证;沉淀;沉淀物 | |
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307
stratagem
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n.诡计,计谋 | |
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308
piety
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n.虔诚,虔敬 | |
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309
navigating
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v.给(船舶、飞机等)引航,导航( navigate的现在分词 );(从海上、空中等)横越;横渡;飞跃 | |
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310
heresies
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n.异端邪说,异教( heresy的名词复数 ) | |
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311
invincible
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adj.不可征服的,难以制服的 | |
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312
vassal
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n.附庸的;属下;adj.奴仆的 | |
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313
Christian
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adj.基督教徒的;n.基督教徒 | |
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314
treasury
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n.宝库;国库,金库;文库 | |
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315
vassals
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n.奴仆( vassal的名词复数 );(封建时代)诸侯;从属者;下属 | |
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316
injustice
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n.非正义,不公正,不公平,侵犯(别人的)权利 | |
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317
lame
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adj.跛的,(辩解、论据等)无说服力的 | |
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318
valiant
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adj.勇敢的,英勇的;n.勇士,勇敢的人 | |
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319
warriors
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武士,勇士,战士( warrior的名词复数 ) | |
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320
procured
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v.(努力)取得, (设法)获得( procure的过去式和过去分词 );拉皮条 | |
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321
procure
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vt.获得,取得,促成;vi.拉皮条 | |
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322
martyrs
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n.martyr的复数形式;烈士( martyr的名词复数 );殉道者;殉教者;乞怜者(向人诉苦以博取同情) | |
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323
faction
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n.宗派,小集团;派别;派系斗争 | |
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324
corruption
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n.腐败,堕落,贪污 | |
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325
chastise
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vt.责骂,严惩 | |
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326
severely
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adv.严格地;严厉地;非常恶劣地 | |
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327
ecclesiastic
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n.教士,基督教会;adj.神职者的,牧师的,教会的 | |
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328
gluttonous
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adj.贪吃的,贪婪的 | |
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329
fealty
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n.忠贞,忠节 | |
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330
knight
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n.骑士,武士;爵士 | |
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331
auditors
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|
n.审计员,稽核员( auditor的名词复数 );(大学课程的)旁听生 | |
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332
sergeants
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警官( sergeant的名词复数 ); (美国警察)警佐; (英国警察)巡佐; 陆军(或空军)中士 | |
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333
navigated
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|
v.给(船舶、飞机等)引航,导航( navigate的过去式和过去分词 );(从海上、空中等)横越;横渡;飞跃 | |
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334
fray
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v.争吵;打斗;磨损,磨破;n.吵架;打斗 | |
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335
provincial
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adj.省的,地方的;n.外省人,乡下人 | |
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336
tyrant
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n.暴君,专制的君主,残暴的人 | |
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337
plunged
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v.颠簸( plunge的过去式和过去分词 );暴跌;骤降;突降 | |
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338
dagger
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n.匕首,短剑,剑号 | |
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339
traitor
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n.叛徒,卖国贼 | |
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340
horde
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n.群众,一大群 | |
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341
repulsed
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v.击退( repulse的过去式和过去分词 );驳斥;拒绝 | |
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342
revered
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v.崇敬,尊崇,敬畏( revere的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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343
penetrates
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v.穿过( penetrate的第三人称单数 );刺入;了解;渗透 | |
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344
sediments
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沉淀物( sediment的名词复数 ); 沉积物 | |
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345
brink
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n.(悬崖、河流等的)边缘,边沿 | |
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346
rivulets
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n.小河,小溪( rivulet的名词复数 ) | |
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347
swarming
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密集( swarm的现在分词 ); 云集; 成群地移动; 蜜蜂或其他飞行昆虫成群地飞来飞去 | |
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348
descended
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a.为...后裔的,出身于...的 | |
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349
vigour
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(=vigor)n.智力,体力,精力 | |
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350
majestically
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雄伟地; 庄重地; 威严地; 崇高地 | |
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351
thorny
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adj.多刺的,棘手的 | |
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352
disposition
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n.性情,性格;意向,倾向;排列,部署 | |
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353
texture
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n.(织物)质地;(材料)构造;结构;肌理 | |
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354
ledges
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n.(墙壁,悬崖等)突出的狭长部分( ledge的名词复数 );(平窄的)壁架;横档;(尤指)窗台 | |
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355
milky
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adj.牛奶的,多奶的;乳白色的 | |
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356
aggregations
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n.聚集( aggregation的名词复数 );集成;集结;聚集体 | |
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357
junction
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n.连接,接合;交叉点,接合处,枢纽站 | |
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358
disseminated
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散布,传播( disseminate的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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359
stifling
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a.令人窒息的 | |
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360
strand
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|
vt.使(船)搁浅,使(某人)困于(某地) | |
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361
exhale
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v.呼气,散出,吐出,蒸发 | |
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362
exhaled
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v.呼出,发散出( exhale的过去式和过去分词 );吐出(肺中的空气、烟等),呼气 | |
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363
relinquish
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v.放弃,撤回,让与,放手 | |
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364
eastward
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adv.向东;adj.向东的;n.东方,东部 | |
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365
cactus
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n.仙人掌 | |
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366
stagnant
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adj.不流动的,停滞的,不景气的 | |
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367
attest
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vt.证明,证实;表明 | |
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368
littoral
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adj.海岸的;湖岸的;n.沿(海)岸地区 | |
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369
longitude
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n.经线,经度 | |
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370
skilful
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(=skillful)adj.灵巧的,熟练的 | |
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371
malady
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n.病,疾病(通常做比喻) | |
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372
ravages
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|
劫掠后的残迹,破坏的结果,毁坏后的残迹 | |
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373
epidemic
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n.流行病;盛行;adj.流行性的,流传极广的 | |
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374
intercourse
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n.性交;交流,交往,交际 | |
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375
stimulants
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n.兴奋剂( stimulant的名词复数 );含兴奋剂的饮料;刺激物;激励物 | |
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376
stimulant
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n.刺激物,兴奋剂 | |
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377
allay
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|
v.消除,减轻(恐惧、怀疑等) | |
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378
languor
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n.无精力,倦怠 | |
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379
embarked
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乘船( embark的过去式和过去分词 ); 装载; 从事 | |
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380
opium
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n.鸦片;adj.鸦片的 | |
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381
alcoholic
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|
adj.(含)酒精的,由酒精引起的;n.酗酒者 | |
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382
draughts
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n. <英>国际跳棋 | |
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383
debilitating
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a.使衰弱的 | |
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384
vomiting
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吐 | |
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385
exacerbation
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n.恶化,激怒,增剧;转剧 | |
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386
epidemics
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n.流行病 | |
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387
fortifying
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|
筑防御工事于( fortify的现在分词 ); 筑堡于; 增强; 强化(食品) | |
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388
degenerate
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v.退步,堕落;adj.退步的,堕落的;n.堕落者 | |
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389
tawny
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adj.茶色的,黄褐色的;n.黄褐色 | |
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390
wholesome
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adj.适合;卫生的;有益健康的;显示身心健康的 | |
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391
wrecks
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n.沉船( wreck的名词复数 );(事故中)遭严重毁坏的汽车(或飞机等);(身体或精神上)受到严重损伤的人;状况非常糟糕的车辆(或建筑物等)v.毁坏[毁灭]某物( wreck的第三人称单数 );使(船舶)失事,使遇难,使下沉 | |
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392
rotary
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adj.(运动等)旋转的;轮转的;转动的 | |
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393
fortified
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adj. 加强的 | |
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394
conglomerate
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n.综合商社,多元化集团公司 | |
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395
noisome
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adj.有害的,可厌的 | |
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396
illicit
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adj.非法的,禁止的,不正当的 | |
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397
proximity
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n.接近,邻近 | |
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398
caulked
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v.堵(船的)缝( caulk的过去式和过去分词 );泥…的缝;填塞;使不漏水 | |
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399
tranquil
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adj. 安静的, 宁静的, 稳定的, 不变的 | |
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|
400
tranquillity
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n. 平静, 安静 | |
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401
derived
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|
vi.起源;由来;衍生;导出v.得到( derive的过去式和过去分词 );(从…中)得到获得;源于;(从…中)提取 | |
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402
hoisted
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|
把…吊起,升起( hoist的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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403
docile
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|
adj.驯服的,易控制的,容易教的 | |
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|
404
schooner
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n.纵帆船 | |
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405
laden
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|
adj.装满了的;充满了的;负了重担的;苦恼的 | |
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406
plentifully
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adv. 许多地,丰饶地 | |
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407
acrid
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|
adj.辛辣的,尖刻的,刻薄的 | |
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408
pointed
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|
adj.尖的,直截了当的 | |
参考例句: |
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|
409
incisions
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|
n.切开,切口( incision的名词复数 ) | |
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|
410
glutinous
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adj.粘的,胶状的 | |
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|
411
devoid
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|
adj.全无的,缺乏的 | |
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|
412
acridity
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|
n.辛辣,狠毒;苛性;极苦 | |
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413
viscosity
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n.粘度,粘性 | |
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|
414
membranes
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|
n.(动物或植物体内的)薄膜( membrane的名词复数 );隔膜;(可起防水、防风等作用的)膜状物 | |
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|
415
elastic
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|
n.橡皮圈,松紧带;adj.有弹性的;灵活的 | |
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|
416
putrefaction
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|
n.腐坏,腐败 | |
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|
417
viscous
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|
adj.粘滞的,粘性的 | |
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418
consul
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|
n.领事;执政官 | |
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419
naturalist
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|
n.博物学家(尤指直接观察动植物者) | |
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420
aromatic
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adj.芳香的,有香味的 | |
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421
profess
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|
v.声称,冒称,以...为业,正式接受入教,表明信仰 | |
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|
422
botanist
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n.植物学家 | |
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|
423
curdled
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|
v.(使)凝结( curdle的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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424
veneration
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|
n.尊敬,崇拜 | |
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|
425
infancy
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|
n.婴儿期;幼年期;初期 | |
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426
astonishment
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|
n.惊奇,惊异 | |
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|
427
isolated
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adj.与世隔绝的 | |
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428
pollen
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|
n.[植]花粉 | |
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|
429
varnish
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|
n.清漆;v.上清漆;粉饰 | |
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430
tapers
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|
(长形物体的)逐渐变窄( taper的名词复数 ); 微弱的光; 极细的蜡烛 | |
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431
frigid
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|
adj.寒冷的,凛冽的;冷淡的;拘禁的 | |
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432
deriving
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v.得到( derive的现在分词 );(从…中)得到获得;源于;(从…中)提取 | |
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433
caustic
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adj.刻薄的,腐蚀性的 | |
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434
narcotic
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n.麻醉药,镇静剂;adj.麻醉的,催眠的 | |
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435
ailments
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疾病(尤指慢性病),不适( ailment的名词复数 ) | |
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436
deposed
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v.罢免( depose的过去式和过去分词 );(在法庭上)宣誓作证 | |
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437
diluted
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无力的,冲淡的 | |
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438
streaks
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n.(与周围有所不同的)条纹( streak的名词复数 );(通常指不好的)特征(倾向);(不断经历成功或失败的)一段时期v.快速移动( streak的第三人称单数 );使布满条纹 | |
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439
yolk
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n.蛋黄,卵黄 | |
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440
agate
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n.玛瑙 | |
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441
agitation
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n.搅动;搅拌;鼓动,煽动 | |
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442
softens
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(使)变软( soften的第三人称单数 ); 缓解打击; 缓和; 安慰 | |
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443
precipitated
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v.(突如其来地)使发生( precipitate的过去式和过去分词 );促成;猛然摔下;使沉淀 | |
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444
starch
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n.淀粉;vt.给...上浆 | |
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445
neutralized
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v.使失效( neutralize的过去式和过去分词 );抵消;中和;使(一个国家)中立化 | |
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446
filamentous
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adj. 细丝状的,如丝的,纤维状的 | |
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447
clots
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n.凝块( clot的名词复数 );血块;蠢人;傻瓜v.凝固( clot的第三人称单数 ) | |
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448
waterproof
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n.防水材料;adj.防水的;v.使...能防水 | |
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449
nauseating
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adj.令人恶心的,使人厌恶的v.使恶心,作呕( nauseate的现在分词 ) | |
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450
edible
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n.食品,食物;adj.可食用的 | |
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451
saccharine
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adj.奉承的,讨好的 | |
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452
fungi
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n.真菌,霉菌 | |
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453
conjecture
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n./v.推测,猜测 | |
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454
nucleus
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n.核,核心,原子核 | |
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455
bounty
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n.慷慨的赠予物,奖金;慷慨,大方;施与 | |
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456
lavish
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adj.无节制的;浪费的;vt.慷慨地给予,挥霍 | |
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457
motives
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n.动机,目的( motive的名词复数 ) | |
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458
faculties
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n.能力( faculty的名词复数 );全体教职员;技巧;院 | |
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459
cylindrical
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adj.圆筒形的 | |
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460
hydraulic
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adj.水力的;水压的,液压的;水力学的 | |
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461
requisite
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adj.需要的,必不可少的;n.必需品 | |
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462
retard
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n.阻止,延迟;vt.妨碍,延迟,使减速 | |
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463
ascertaining
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v.弄清,确定,查明( ascertain的现在分词 ) | |
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464
carnival
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n.嘉年华会,狂欢,狂欢节,巡回表演 | |
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465
emigrants
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n.(从本国移往他国的)移民( emigrant的名词复数 ) | |
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466
asylum
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n.避难所,庇护所,避难 | |
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467
confiding
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adj.相信人的,易于相信的v.吐露(秘密,心事等)( confide的现在分词 );(向某人)吐露(隐私、秘密等) | |
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468
proscribed
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v.正式宣布(某事物)有危险或被禁止( proscribe的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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469
cataracts
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n.大瀑布( cataract的名词复数 );白内障 | |
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470
infusion
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n.灌输 | |
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471
memoirs
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n.回忆录;回忆录传( mem,自oir的名词复数) | |
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472
hogs
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n.(尤指喂肥供食用的)猪( hog的名词复数 );(供食用的)阉公猪;彻底地做某事;自私的或贪婪的人 | |
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473
yeast
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n.酵母;酵母片;泡沫;v.发酵;起泡沫 | |
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474
nutritious
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adj.有营养的,营养价值高的 | |
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475
subscribe
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vi.(to)订阅,订购;同意;vt.捐助,赞助 | |
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476
stimulating
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adj.有启发性的,能激发人思考的 | |
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477
vegetates
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v.过单调呆板的生活( vegetate的第三人称单数 );植物似地生长;(瘤、疣等)长大 | |
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478
inclement
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adj.严酷的,严厉的,恶劣的 | |
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479
devour
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v.吞没;贪婪地注视或谛听,贪读;使着迷 | |
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480
preservation
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n.保护,维护,保存,保留,保持 | |
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481
jurisdiction
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n.司法权,审判权,管辖权,控制权 | |
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482
awakened
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v.(使)醒( awaken的过去式和过去分词 );(使)觉醒;弄醒;(使)意识到 | |
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483
smuggling
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n.走私 | |
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484
statistical
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adj.统计的,统计学的 | |
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485
exhausted
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adj.极其疲惫的,精疲力尽的 | |
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486
reposes
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v.将(手臂等)靠在某人(某物)上( repose的第三人称单数 ) | |
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487
gaseous
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adj.气体的,气态的 | |
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488
constituent
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n.选民;成分,组分;adj.组成的,构成的 | |
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489
binary
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adj.二,双;二进制的;n.双(体);联星 | |
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490
exhales
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v.呼出,发散出( exhale的第三人称单数 );吐出(肺中的空气、烟等),呼气 | |
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491
heterogeneous
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adj.庞杂的;异类的 | |
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492
elasticity
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n.弹性,伸缩力 | |
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493
deplore
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vt.哀叹,对...深感遗憾 | |
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494
vanilla
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n.香子兰,香草 | |
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495
feverish
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adj.发烧的,狂热的,兴奋的 | |
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496
stifled
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(使)窒息, (使)窒闷( stifle的过去式和过去分词 ); 镇压,遏制; 堵 | |
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497
metallic
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adj.金属的;金属制的;含金属的;产金属的;像金属的 | |
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498
propensity
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n.倾向;习性 | |
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499
populous
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adj.人口稠密的,人口众多的 | |
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500
conceals
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v.隐藏,隐瞒,遮住( conceal的第三人称单数 ) | |
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501
wrought
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v.引起;以…原料制作;运转;adj.制造的 | |
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502
veins
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n.纹理;矿脉( vein的名词复数 );静脉;叶脉;纹理 | |
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503
shaft
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n.(工具的)柄,杆状物 | |
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504
bishop
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n.主教,(国际象棋)象 | |
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505
monarchy
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n.君主,最高统治者;君主政体,君主国 | |
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506
adverse
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adj.不利的;有害的;敌对的,不友好的 | |
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507
pretensions
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自称( pretension的名词复数 ); 自命不凡; 要求; 权力 | |
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508
cavern
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n.洞穴,大山洞 | |
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509
baneful
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adj.有害的 | |
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510
putrid
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adj.腐臭的;有毒的;已腐烂的;卑劣的 | |
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511
luminous
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adj.发光的,发亮的;光明的;明白易懂的;有启发的 | |
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512
vaguely
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adv.含糊地,暖昧地 | |
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513
allege
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vt.宣称,申述,主张,断言 | |
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514
detonation
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n.爆炸;巨响 | |
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515
descends
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v.下来( descend的第三人称单数 );下去;下降;下斜 | |
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