The Land’s End! There is something in the very words that stirs us all. It was the name that struck us most, and was best remembered by us, as children, when we learnt our geography. It fills the minds of imaginative people with visions of barrenness and solitude4, with dreams of some lonely promontory5, far away by itself out in the sea — the sort of place where the last man in England would be most likely to be found waiting for death, at the end of the world! It suggests even to the most prosaically6 constituted people, ideas of tremendous storms, of flakes7 of foam8 flying over the land before the wind, of billows in convulsion, of rocks shaken to their centre, of caves where smugglers lurk10 in ambush11, of wrecks12 and hurricanes, desolation, danger, and death. It awakens13 curiosity in the most careless — once hear of it, and you long to see it — tell your friends that you have travelled in Cornwall, and ten thousand chances to one, the first question they ask is:—“Have you been to the Land’s End?”
And yet, strange to say, this spot so singled out and set apart by our imaginations as something remarkable14 and even unique of its kind, is as a matter of fact, not distinguishable from any part of the coast on either side of it, by any local peculiarity15 whatever. If you desire really and truly to stand on the Land’s End itself, you must ask your way to it, or you are in danger of mistaking any one of the numerous promontories16 on the right hand and the left, for your actual place of destination. But I am anticipating. Before I say more about the Land’s End, it is necessary to relate how my companion and I got there, and what we saw that was interesting and characteristic on our road.
The reader may perhaps remember that he last left us scrambling17 out of reach of the tide, up the cliffs overlooking Kynance Cove18. From that place we got back to Helston in mist and rain, just as we had left it. From Helston we proceeded to Marazion — stopping there to visit St. Michael’s Mount, so well known to readers of all classes by innumerable pictures and drawings, and by descriptions scarcely less plentiful19, that they will surely be relieved rather than disappointed, if these pages exhibit the distinguished20 negative merit of passing the Mount without notice. From Marazion we walked to Penzance, from Penzance to the beautiful coast scenery at Lamorna Cove, and thence to Trereen, celebrated21 as the halting place for a visit to one of Cornwall’s greatest curiosities — the Loggan Stone.
This far-famed rock rises on the top of a bold promontory of granite22, jutting23 far out into the sea, split into the wildest forms, and towering precipitously to a height of a hundred feet. When you reach the Loggan Stone, after some little climbing up perilous24-looking places, you see a solid, irregular mass of granite, which is computed25 to weigh eighty five tons, supported by its centre only, on a flat, broad rock, which, in its turn, rests on several others stretching out around it on all sides. You are told by the guide to turn your back to the uppermost stone; to place your shoulders under one particular part of its lower edge, which is entirely26 disconnected, all round, with the supporting rock below; and in this position to push upwards27 slowly and steadily28, then to leave off again for an instant, then to push once more, and so on, until after a few moments of exertion29, you feel the whole immense mass above you moving as you press against it. You redouble your efforts — then turn round — and see the massy Loggan Stone, set in motion by nothing but your own pair of shoulders, slowly rocking backwards30 and forwards with an alternate ascension and declension, at the outer edges, of at least three inches. You have treated eighty-five tons of granite like a child’s cradle; and, like a child’s cradle, those eighty-five tons have rocked at your will!
The pivot31 on which the Loggan Stone is thus easily moved, is a small protrusion32 in its base, on all sides of which the whole surrounding weight of rock is, by an accident of Nature, so exactly equalized, as to keep it poised33 in the nicest balance on the one little point in its lower surface which rests on the flat granite slab34 beneath. But perfect as this balance appears at present, it has lost something, the merest hair’s-breadth, of its original faultlessness of adjustment. The rock is not to be moved now, either so easily or to so great an extent, as it could once be moved. Six-and-twenty years since, it was overthrown36 by artificial means; and was then lifted again into its former position. This is the story of the affair, as it was related to me by a man who was an eyewitness37 of the process of restoring the stone to its proper place.
In the year 1824, a certain Lieutenant38 in the Royal Navy, then in command of a cutter stationed off the southern coast of Cornwall, was told of an ancient Cornish prophecy, that no human power should ever succeed in overturning the Loggan Stone. No sooner was the prediction communicated to him, than he conceived a mischievous39 ambition to falsify practically an assertion which the commonest common sense might have informed him had sprung from nothing but popular error and popular superstition40. Accompanied by a body of picked men from his crew, he ascended41 to the Loggan Stone, ordered several levers to be placed under it at one point, gave the word to “heave”— and the next moment had the miserable42 satisfaction of seeing one of the most remarkable natural curiosities in the world utterly43 destroyed, for aught he could foresee to the contrary, under his own directions!
But Fortune befriended the Loggan Stone. One edge of it, as it rolled over, became fixed44 by a lucky chance in a crevice45 in the rocks immediately below the granite slab from which it had been started. Had this not happened, it must have fallen over a sheer precipice46, and been lost in the sea. By another accident, equally fortunate, two labouring men at work in the neighbourhood, were led by curiosity secretly to follow the Lieutenant and his myrmidons up to the Stone. Having witnessed, from a secure hiding-place, all that occurred, the two workmen, with great propriety47, immediately hurried off to inform the lord of the manor48 of the wanton act of destruction which they had seen perpetrated.
The news was soon communicated throughout the district, and thence, throughout all Cornwall. The indignation of the whole county was aroused. Antiquaries, who believed the Loggan Stone to have been balanced by the Druids; philosophers who held that it was produced by an eccentricity49 of natural formation; ignorant people, who cared nothing about Druids, or natural formations, but who liked to climb up and rock the stone whenever they passed near it; tribes of guides who lived by showing it; innkeepers in the neighbourhood, to whom it had brought customers by hundreds; tourists of every degree who were on their way to see it — all joined in one general clamour of execration50 against the overthrower of the rock. A full report of the affair was forwarded to the Admiralty; and the Admiralty, for once, acted vigorously for the public advantage, and mercifully spared the public purse.
The Lieutenant was officially informed that his commission was in danger, unless he set up the Loggan Stone again in its proper place. The materials for compassing this achievement were offered to him, gratis51, from the Dock Yards; but he was left to his own resources to defray the expense of employing workmen to help him. Being by this time awakened52 to a proper sense of the mischief53 he had done, and to a tolerably strong conviction of the disagreeable position in which he was placed with the Admiralty, he addressed himself vigorously to the task of repairing his fault. Strong beams were planted about the Loggan Stone, chains were passed round it, pulleys were rigged, and capstans were manned. After a week’s hard work and brave perseverance54 on the part of every one employed in the labour, the rock was pulled back into its former position, but not into its former perfection of balance: it has never moved since as freely as it moved before.
It is only fair to the Lieutenant to add to this narrative55 of his mischievous frolic the fact, that he defrayed, though a poor man, all the heavy expenses of replacing the rock. Just before his death, he paid the last remaining debt, and paid it with interest.
Leaving the Loggan Stone, we next shaped our course for the Land’s End. We stopped on our way, to admire the desolate56 pile of rocks and caverns57 which form the towering promontory, called “Tol–Peden-Penwith,” or, “The Holed Headland on the Left.” Thence, turning a little inland — passing over wild, pathless moors58; occasionally catching59 distant glimpses of the sea, with the mist sometimes falling thick down to the very edges of the waves, sometimes parting mysteriously and discovering distant crags of granite rising shadowy out of the foaming60 waters — we reached, at last, the limits of our outward journey, and saw the Atlantic before us, rolling against the westernmost extremity61 of the shores of England.
I have already said, that the stranger must ask his way before he can find out the particular mass of rocks, geographically62 entitled to the appellation63 of the “Land’s End.” He may, however, easily discover when he has reached the district of the “Land’s End,” by two rather remarkable indications that he will meet with on his road. He will observe, at some distance from the coast, an old milestone64 marked “I,” and will be informed that this is the real original first mile in England; as if all measurement of distances began strictly65 from the West! A little further on he will come to a house, on one wall of which he will see written in large letters, “This is the first Inn in England,” and on the other: “This is the last Inn in England;” as if the recognised beginning, and end too, of the Island of Britain were here, and here only! Having pondered a little on the slightly exclusive view of the attributes of their locality, taken by the inhabitants, he will then be led forward, about half a mile, by his guide, will descend66 some cliffs, will walk out on a ridge67 of rocks till he can go no farther — and will then be told that he is standing68 on the Land’s End!
Here, as elsewhere, there are certain “sights” which a stranger is required to examine assiduously, as a duty if not as a pleasure, by guide-book law, rigidly69 administered by guides. There is, first of all, the mark of a horse’s hoof70, which is with great care kept sharply modelled (to borrow the painter’s phrase), in the thin grass at the edge of a precipice. This mark commemorates71 the narrow escape from death of a military man who, for a wager72, rode a horse down the cliff to the extreme verge73 of the Land’s End; where the poor animal, seeing its danger, turned in affright, reared, and fell back into the sea raging over the rocks beneath. The foolhardy rider had just sense enough left to throw himself off in time — he tumbled on the ground, within a few inches of the precipice, and so barely saved the life which he had richly deserved to lose.
After the mark of the hoof, the traveller is next desired to look at a natural tunnel in the outer cliff, which pierces it through from one end to the other. Then his attention is directed to a lighthouse built on a reef of rocks detached from the land; and he is told of the great waves which break over the top of the building during the winter storms. Lastly, he is requested to inspect a quaint74 protuberance in a pile of granite at a little distance off, which bears a remote resemblance to a gigantic human face, adorned75 with a short beard; and which, he is informed, is considered quite a portrait (of all the people in the world to liken it to!) of Dr. Johnson! It is, therefore, publicly known as “Johnson’s Head.” If it can fairly be compared with any of the countenances76 of any remarkable characters that ever existed, it may be said to exhibit, in violent exaggeration, the worst physiognomical peculiarities77 of Nero and Henry the Eighth, combined in one face!
These several local curiosities duly examined, you are at last left free to look at the Land’s End in your own way. Before you, stretches the wide, wild ocean; the largest of the Scilly Islands being barely discernible on the extreme horizon, on clear days. Tracts78 of heath; fields where corn is blown by the wind into mimic79 waves; downs, valleys, and crags, mingle80 together picturesquely81 and confusedly, until they are lost in the distance, on your left. On your right is a magnificent bay, bounded at either extremity by far-stretching promontories rising from a beach of the purest white sand, on which the yet whiter foam of the surf is ever seething82, as waves on waves break one behind the other. The whole bold view possesses all the sublimity84 that vastness and space can bestow85; but it is that sublimity which is to be seen, not described, which the heart may acknowledge and the mind contain, but which no mere35 words may delineate — which even painting itself may but faintly reflect.
However, it is, after all, the walk to the Land’s End along the southern coast, rather than the Land’s End itself, which displays the grandest combinations of scenery in which this grandest part of Cornwall abounds86. There, Nature appears in her most triumphant87 glory and beauty — there, every mile as you proceed, offers some new prospect88, or awakens some fresh impression. All objects that you meet with, great and small, moving and motionless, seem united in perfect harmony to form a scene where original images might still be found by the poet; and where original pictures are waiting, ready composed, for the painter’s eye.
On approaching the wondrous89 landscapes between Trereen and the Land’s End, the first characteristic that strikes you, is the change that has taken place in the forms of the cliffs since you left the Lizard90 Head. You no longer look on variously shaped and variously coloured “serpentine” rocks; it is granite, and granite alone, that appears everywhere — granite, less lofty and less eccentric in form than the “serpentine” cliffs and crags; but presenting an appearance of adamantine solidity and strength, a mighty91 breadth of outline and an unbroken vastness of extent, nobly adapted to the purpose of protecting the shores of Cornwall, where they are most exposed to the fury of the Atlantic waves. In these wild districts, the sea rolls and roars in fiercer agitation92, and the mists fall thicker, and at the same time fade and change faster, than elsewhere. Vessels93 pitching heavily in the waves, are seen to dawn, at one moment, in the clearing atmosphere — and then, at another, to fade again mysteriously, as it abruptly94 thickens, like phantom95 ships. Up on the top of the cliffs, furze and heath in brilliant clothing of purple and yellow, cluster close round great white, weird96 masses of rock, dotted fantastically with patches of grey-green moss97. The solitude on these heights is unbroken — no houses are to be seen — often, no pathway is to be found. You go on, guided by the sight of the sea, when the sky brightens fitfully: and by the sound of the sea, when you stray instinctively98 from the edge of the cliff, as mist and darkness gather once more densely99 and solemnly all around you.
Then, when the path appears again — a winding100 path, that descends101 rapidly — you gradually enter on a new scene. Old horses startle you, scrambling into perilous situations, to pick dainty bits by the hillside; sheep, fettered102 by the fore9 and hind83 leg, hobble away desperately103 as you advance. Suddenly, you discern a small strip of beach shut in snugly104 between protecting rocks. A spring bubbles down from an inland valley; while not far off, an old stone well collects the water into a calm, clear pool. Sturdy little cottages, built of rough granite, and thickly thatched, stand near you, with gulls’ and cormorants’ eggs set in their loop-holed windows for ornament105; great white sections of fish hang thickly together on their walls to dry, looking more like many legs of many dirty duck trousers, than anything else; pigsties106 are hard-by the cottages, either formed by the Cromlech stones of the Druids, or excavated107 like caves in the side of the hill. Down on the beach, where the rough old fishing-boats lie, the sand is entirely formed by countless108 multitudes of the tiniest, fairy-like shells, often as small as a pin’s head, and all exquisitely109 tender in colour and wonderfully varied110 in form. Up the lower and flatter parts of the hills above, fishing nets are stretched to dry. While you stop to look forth111 over the quiet, simple scene, wild little children peep out at you in astonishment112; and hard-working men and women greet you with a hearty113 Cornish salutation, as you pass near their cottage doors.
You walk a few hundred yards inland, up the valley, and discover in a retired114, sheltered situation, the ancient village church, with its square grey tower surmounted115 by moss-grown turrets116, with its venerable Saxon stone cross in the churchyard — where the turf graves rise humbly117 by twos and threes, and where the old coffin-shaped stone stands midway at the entrance gates, still used, as in former times, by the bearers of a rustic118 funeral. Appearing thus amid the noblest scenery, as the simple altar of the prayers of a simple race, this is a church which speaks of religion in no formal or sectarian tone. Appealing to the heart of every traveller be his creed119 what it may, in loving and solemn accents, it sends him on his way again, up the mighty cliffs and through the mist driving cloud-like over them, the better fitted for his journey forward here; the better fitted, it may be, even for that other dread120 journey of one irrevocable moment — the last he shall ever take — to his abiding-place among the spirits of the dead!
These are some of the attractions which home rambles121 can offer to tempt122 the home traveller; for these are the impressions produced, and the incidents presented during a walk to the Land’s End.
点击收听单词发音
1 shrine | |
n.圣地,神龛,庙;v.将...置于神龛内,把...奉为神圣 | |
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2 vent | |
n.通风口,排放口;开衩;vt.表达,发泄 | |
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3 admiration | |
n.钦佩,赞美,羡慕 | |
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4 solitude | |
n. 孤独; 独居,荒僻之地,幽静的地方 | |
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5 promontory | |
n.海角;岬 | |
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6 prosaically | |
adv.无聊地;乏味地;散文式地;平凡地 | |
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7 flakes | |
小薄片( flake的名词复数 ); (尤指)碎片; 雪花; 古怪的人 | |
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8 foam | |
v./n.泡沫,起泡沫 | |
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9 fore | |
adv.在前面;adj.先前的;在前部的;n.前部 | |
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10 lurk | |
n.潜伏,潜行;v.潜藏,潜伏,埋伏 | |
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11 ambush | |
n.埋伏(地点);伏兵;v.埋伏;伏击 | |
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12 wrecks | |
n.沉船( wreck的名词复数 );(事故中)遭严重毁坏的汽车(或飞机等);(身体或精神上)受到严重损伤的人;状况非常糟糕的车辆(或建筑物等)v.毁坏[毁灭]某物( wreck的第三人称单数 );使(船舶)失事,使遇难,使下沉 | |
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13 awakens | |
v.(使)醒( awaken的第三人称单数 );(使)觉醒;弄醒;(使)意识到 | |
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14 remarkable | |
adj.显著的,异常的,非凡的,值得注意的 | |
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15 peculiarity | |
n.独特性,特色;特殊的东西;怪癖 | |
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16 promontories | |
n.岬,隆起,海角( promontory的名词复数 ) | |
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17 scrambling | |
v.快速爬行( scramble的现在分词 );攀登;争夺;(军事飞机)紧急起飞 | |
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18 cove | |
n.小海湾,小峡谷 | |
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19 plentiful | |
adj.富裕的,丰富的 | |
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20 distinguished | |
adj.卓越的,杰出的,著名的 | |
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21 celebrated | |
adj.有名的,声誉卓著的 | |
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22 granite | |
adj.花岗岩,花岗石 | |
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23 jutting | |
v.(使)突出( jut的现在分词 );伸出;(从…)突出;高出 | |
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24 perilous | |
adj.危险的,冒险的 | |
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25 computed | |
adj.[医]计算的,使用计算机的v.计算,估算( compute的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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26 entirely | |
ad.全部地,完整地;完全地,彻底地 | |
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27 upwards | |
adv.向上,在更高处...以上 | |
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28 steadily | |
adv.稳定地;不变地;持续地 | |
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29 exertion | |
n.尽力,努力 | |
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30 backwards | |
adv.往回地,向原处,倒,相反,前后倒置地 | |
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31 pivot | |
v.在枢轴上转动;装枢轴,枢轴;adj.枢轴的 | |
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32 protrusion | |
n.伸出,突出 | |
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33 poised | |
a.摆好姿势不动的 | |
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34 slab | |
n.平板,厚的切片;v.切成厚板,以平板盖上 | |
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35 mere | |
adj.纯粹的;仅仅,只不过 | |
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36 overthrown | |
adj. 打翻的,推倒的,倾覆的 动词overthrow的过去分词 | |
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37 eyewitness | |
n.目击者,见证人 | |
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38 lieutenant | |
n.陆军中尉,海军上尉;代理官员,副职官员 | |
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39 mischievous | |
adj.调皮的,恶作剧的,有害的,伤人的 | |
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40 superstition | |
n.迷信,迷信行为 | |
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41 ascended | |
v.上升,攀登( ascend的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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42 miserable | |
adj.悲惨的,痛苦的;可怜的,糟糕的 | |
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43 utterly | |
adv.完全地,绝对地 | |
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44 fixed | |
adj.固定的,不变的,准备好的;(计算机)固定的 | |
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45 crevice | |
n.(岩石、墙等)裂缝;缺口 | |
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46 precipice | |
n.悬崖,危急的处境 | |
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47 propriety | |
n.正当行为;正当;适当 | |
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48 manor | |
n.庄园,领地 | |
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49 eccentricity | |
n.古怪,反常,怪癖 | |
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50 execration | |
n.诅咒,念咒,憎恶 | |
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51 gratis | |
adj.免费的 | |
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52 awakened | |
v.(使)醒( awaken的过去式和过去分词 );(使)觉醒;弄醒;(使)意识到 | |
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53 mischief | |
n.损害,伤害,危害;恶作剧,捣蛋,胡闹 | |
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54 perseverance | |
n.坚持不懈,不屈不挠 | |
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55 narrative | |
n.叙述,故事;adj.叙事的,故事体的 | |
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56 desolate | |
adj.荒凉的,荒芜的;孤独的,凄凉的;v.使荒芜,使孤寂 | |
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57 caverns | |
大山洞,大洞穴( cavern的名词复数 ) | |
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58 moors | |
v.停泊,系泊(船只)( moor的第三人称单数 ) | |
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59 catching | |
adj.易传染的,有魅力的,迷人的,接住 | |
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60 foaming | |
adj.布满泡沫的;发泡 | |
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61 extremity | |
n.末端,尽头;尽力;终极;极度 | |
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62 geographically | |
adv.地理学上,在地理上,地理方面 | |
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63 appellation | |
n.名称,称呼 | |
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64 milestone | |
n.里程碑;划时代的事件 | |
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65 strictly | |
adv.严厉地,严格地;严密地 | |
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66 descend | |
vt./vi.传下来,下来,下降 | |
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67 ridge | |
n.山脊;鼻梁;分水岭 | |
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68 standing | |
n.持续,地位;adj.永久的,不动的,直立的,不流动的 | |
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69 rigidly | |
adv.刻板地,僵化地 | |
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70 hoof | |
n.(马,牛等的)蹄 | |
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71 commemorates | |
n.纪念,庆祝( commemorate的名词复数 )v.纪念,庆祝( commemorate的第三人称单数 ) | |
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72 wager | |
n.赌注;vt.押注,打赌 | |
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73 verge | |
n.边,边缘;v.接近,濒临 | |
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74 quaint | |
adj.古雅的,离奇有趣的,奇怪的 | |
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75 adorned | |
[计]被修饰的 | |
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76 countenances | |
n.面容( countenance的名词复数 );表情;镇静;道义支持 | |
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77 peculiarities | |
n. 特质, 特性, 怪癖, 古怪 | |
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78 tracts | |
大片土地( tract的名词复数 ); 地带; (体内的)道; (尤指宣扬宗教、伦理或政治的)短文 | |
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79 mimic | |
v.模仿,戏弄;n.模仿他人言行的人 | |
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80 mingle | |
vt.使混合,使相混;vi.混合起来;相交往 | |
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81 picturesquely | |
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82 seething | |
沸腾的,火热的 | |
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83 hind | |
adj.后面的,后部的 | |
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84 sublimity | |
崇高,庄严,气质高尚 | |
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85 bestow | |
v.把…赠与,把…授予;花费 | |
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86 abounds | |
v.大量存在,充满,富于( abound的第三人称单数 ) | |
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87 triumphant | |
adj.胜利的,成功的;狂欢的,喜悦的 | |
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88 prospect | |
n.前景,前途;景色,视野 | |
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89 wondrous | |
adj.令人惊奇的,奇妙的;adv.惊人地;异乎寻常地;令人惊叹地 | |
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90 lizard | |
n.蜥蜴,壁虎 | |
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91 mighty | |
adj.强有力的;巨大的 | |
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92 agitation | |
n.搅动;搅拌;鼓动,煽动 | |
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93 vessels | |
n.血管( vessel的名词复数 );船;容器;(具有特殊品质或接受特殊品质的)人 | |
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94 abruptly | |
adv.突然地,出其不意地 | |
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95 phantom | |
n.幻影,虚位,幽灵;adj.错觉的,幻影的,幽灵的 | |
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96 weird | |
adj.古怪的,离奇的;怪诞的,神秘而可怕的 | |
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97 moss | |
n.苔,藓,地衣 | |
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98 instinctively | |
adv.本能地 | |
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99 densely | |
ad.密集地;浓厚地 | |
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100 winding | |
n.绕,缠,绕组,线圈 | |
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101 descends | |
v.下来( descend的第三人称单数 );下去;下降;下斜 | |
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102 fettered | |
v.给…上脚镣,束缚( fetter的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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103 desperately | |
adv.极度渴望地,绝望地,孤注一掷地 | |
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104 snugly | |
adv.紧贴地;贴身地;暖和舒适地;安适地 | |
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105 ornament | |
v.装饰,美化;n.装饰,装饰物 | |
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106 pigsties | |
n.猪圈,脏房间( pigsty的名词复数 ) | |
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107 excavated | |
v.挖掘( excavate的过去式和过去分词 );开凿;挖出;发掘 | |
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108 countless | |
adj.无数的,多得不计其数的 | |
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109 exquisitely | |
adv.精致地;强烈地;剧烈地;异常地 | |
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110 varied | |
adj.多样的,多变化的 | |
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111 forth | |
adv.向前;向外,往外 | |
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112 astonishment | |
n.惊奇,惊异 | |
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113 hearty | |
adj.热情友好的;衷心的;尽情的,纵情的 | |
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114 retired | |
adj.隐退的,退休的,退役的 | |
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115 surmounted | |
战胜( surmount的过去式和过去分词 ); 克服(困难); 居于…之上; 在…顶上 | |
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116 turrets | |
(六角)转台( turret的名词复数 ); (战舰和坦克等上的)转动炮塔; (摄影机等上的)镜头转台; (旧时攻城用的)塔车 | |
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117 humbly | |
adv. 恭顺地,谦卑地 | |
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118 rustic | |
adj.乡村的,有乡村特色的;n.乡下人,乡巴佬 | |
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119 creed | |
n.信条;信念,纲领 | |
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120 dread | |
vt.担忧,忧虑;惧怕,不敢;n.担忧,畏惧 | |
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121 rambles | |
(无目的地)漫游( ramble的第三人称单数 ); (喻)漫谈; 扯淡; 长篇大论 | |
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122 tempt | |
vt.引诱,勾引,吸引,引起…的兴趣 | |
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