The mass of London people are shabby. The absence of distinctive4 dress has, no doubt, something to do with it. The porters of the Vintners’ Company, the draymen, and the butchers, are about the only people who wear distinctive dresses; and even these do not wear them on holidays. We have nothing which for cheapness, cleanliness, convenience, or picturesqueness5, can compare with the belted blouse. As to our women; — next Easter or Whitsuntide, look at the bonnets6 at the British Museum or the National Gallery, and think of the pretty white French cap, the Spanish mantilla, or the Genoese mezzero.
Probably there are not more second-hand7 clothes sold in London than in Paris, and yet the mass of the London population have a second-hand look which is not to be detected on the mass of the Parisian population. I think this is mainly because a Parisian workman does not in the least trouble himself about what is worn by a Parisian idler, but dresses in the way of his own class, and for his own comfort. In London, on the contrary, the fashions descend8; and you never fully9 know how inconvenient10 or ridiculous a fashion is, until you see it in its last descent. It was but the other day, on a race-course, that I observed four people in a barouche deriving11 great entertainment from the contemplation of four people on foot. The four people on foot were two young men and two young women; the four people in the barouche were two young men and two young women. The four young women were dressed in exactly the same style; the four young men were dressed in exactly the same style. Yet the two couples on wheels were as much amused by the two couples on foot, as if they were quite unconscious of having themselves set those fashions, or of being at that very moment engaged in the display of them.
Is it only in the matter of clothes that fashion descends12 here in London — and consequently in England — and thence shabbiness arises? Let us think a little, and be just. The ‘Black Country’ round about Birmingham, is a very black country; but is it quite as black as it has been lately painted? An appalling13 accident happened at the People’s Park near Birmingham, this last July, when it was crowded with people from the Black Country — an appalling accident consequent on a shamefully14 dangerous exhibition. Did the shamefully dangerous exhibition originate in the moral blackness of the Black Country, and in the Black People’s peculiar15 love of the excitement attendant on great personal hazard, which they looked on at, but in which they did not participate? Light is much wanted in the Black Country. O we are all agreed on that. But, we must not quite forget the crowds of gentlefolks who set the shamefully dangerous fashion, either. We must not quite forget the enterprising Directors of an Institution vaunting mighty16 educational pretences18, who made the low sensation as strong as they possibly could make it, by hanging the Blondin rope as high as they possibly could hang it. All this must not be eclipsed in the Blackness of the Black Country. The reserved seats high up by the rope, the cleared space below it, so that no one should be smashed but the performer, the pretence17 of slipping and falling off, the baskets for the feet and the sack for the head, the photographs everywhere, and the virtuous19 indignation nowhere — all this must not be wholly swallowed up in the blackness of the jet-black country.
Whatsoever20 fashion is set in England, is certain to descend. This is a text for a perpetual sermon on care in setting fashions. When you find a fashion low down, look back for the time (it will never be far off) when it was the fashion high up. This is the text for a perpetual sermon on social justice. From imitations of Ethiopian Serenaders, to imitations of Prince’s coats and waistcoats, you will find the original model in St. James’s Parish. When the Serenaders become tiresome21, trace them beyond the Black Country; when the coats and waistcoats become insupportable, refer them to their source in the Upper Toady22 Regions.
Gentlemen’s clubs were once maintained for purposes of savage23 party warfare24; working men’s clubs of the same day assumed the same character. Gentlemen’s clubs became places of quiet inoffensive recreation; working men’s clubs began to follow suit. If working men have seemed rather slow to appreciate advantages of combination which have saved the pockets of gentlemen, and enhanced their comforts, it is because working men could scarcely, for want of capital, originate such combinations without help; and because help has not been separable from that great impertinence, Patronage25. The instinctive26 revolt of his spirit against patronage, is a quality much to be respected in the English working man. It is the base of the base of his best qualities. Nor is it surprising that he should be unduly27 suspicious of patronage, and sometimes resentful of it even where it is not, seeing what a flood of washy talk has been let loose on his devoted28 head, or with what complacent29 condescension30 the same devoted head has been smoothed and patted. It is a proof to me of his self-control that he never strikes out pugilistically, right and left, when addressed as one of ‘My friends,’ or ‘My assembled friends;’ that he does not become inappeasable, and run amuck31 like a Malay, whenever he sees a biped in broadcloth getting on a platform to talk to him; that any pretence of improving his mind, does not instantly drive him out of his mind, and cause him to toss his obliging patron like a mad bull.
For, how often have I heard the unfortunate working man lectured, as if he were a little charity-child, humid as to his nasal development, strictly32 literal as to his Catechism, and called by Providence33 to walk all his days in a station in life represented on festive34 occasions by a mug of warm milk-and-water and a bun! What popguns of jokes have these ears tingled35 to hear let off at him, what asinine36 sentiments, what impotent conclusions, what spelling-book moralities, what adaptations of the orator’s insufferable tediousness to the assumed level of his understanding! If his sledge-hammers, his spades and pick-axes, his saws and chisels37, his paint-pots and brushes, his forges, furnaces, and engines, the horses that he drove at his work, and the machines that drove him at his work, were all toys in one little paper box, and he the baby who played with them, he could not have been discoursed38 to, more impertinently and absurdly than I have heard him discoursed to times innumerable. Consequently, not being a fool or a fawner, he has come to acknowledge his patronage by virtually saying: ‘Let me alone. If you understand me no better than THAT, sir and madam, let me alone. You mean very well, I dare say, but I don’t like it, and I won’t come here again to have any more of it.’
Whatever is done for the comfort and advancement39 of the working man must be so far done by himself as that it is maintained by himself. And there must be in it no touch of condescension, no shadow of patronage. In the great working districts, this truth is studied and understood. When the American civil war rendered it necessary, first in Glasgow, and afterwards in Manchester, that the working people should be shown how to avail themselves of the advantages derivable40 from system, and from the combination of numbers, in the purchase and the cooking of their food, this truth was above all things borne in mind. The quick consequence was, that suspicion and reluctance41 were vanquished42, and that the effort resulted in an astonishing and a complete success.
Such thoughts passed through my mind on a July morning of this summer, as I walked towards Commercial Street (not Uncommercial Street), Whitechapel. The Glasgow and Manchester system had been lately set a-going there, by certain gentlemen who felt an interest in its diffusion43, and I had been attracted by the following hand-bill printed on rose-coloured paper:
SELF-SUPPORTING COOKING DEPOT44 FOR THE WORKING CLASSES
Commercial-street, Whitechapel, Where Accommodation is provided for Dining comfortably 300 Persons at a time.
Open from 7 A.M. till 7 P.M.
PRICES.
All Articles of the BEST QUALITY.
Cup of Tea or Coffee One Penny Bread and Butter One Penny Bread and Cheese One Penny Slice of bread One half-penny or
One Penny
Boiled Egg One Penny
Ginger45 Beer One Penny
The above Articles always ready.
Besides the above may be had, from 12 to 3 o’clock,
Bowl of Scotch46 Broth47 One Penny Bowl of Soup One Penny Plate of Potatoes One Penny Plate of Minced48 Beef Twopence Plate of Cold Beef Twopence Plate of Cold Ham Twopence Plate of Plum Pudding or Rice One Penny
As the Economy of Cooking depends greatly upon the simplicity49 of the arrangements with which a great number of persons can be served at one time, the Upper Room of this Establishment will be especially set apart for a
PUBLIC DINNER EVERY DAY
From 12 till 3 o’clock,
CONSISTING OF THE FOLLOWING DISHES,
Bowl of Broth, or Soup, Plate of Cold Beef or Ham, Plate of Potatoes, Plum Pudding, or Rice.
FIXED51 CHARGE 4.5D.
THE DAILY PAPERS PROVIDED.
N.B. — This Establishment is conducted on the strictest business principles, with the full intention of making it self-supporting, so that every one may frequent it with a feeling of perfect independence.
The assistance of all frequenting the Depot is confidently expected in checking anything interfering52 with the comfort, quiet, and regularity53 of the establishment.
Please do not destroy this Hand Bill, but hand it to some other person whom it may interest.
The Self-Supporting Cooking Depot (not a very good name, and one would rather give it an English one) had hired a newly-built warehouse54 that it found to let; therefore it was not established in premises55 specially50 designed for the purpose. But, at a small cost they were exceedingly well adapted to the purpose: being light, well ventilated, clean, and cheerful. They consisted of three large rooms. That on the basement story was the kitchen; that on the ground floor was the general dining-room; that on the floor above was the Upper Room referred to in the hand-bill, where the Public Dinner at fourpence-halfpenny a head was provided every day. The cooking was done, with much economy of space and fuel, by American cooking-stoves, and by young women not previously56, brought up as cooks; the walls and pillars of the two dining-rooms were agreeably brightened with ornamental57 colours; the tables were capable of accommodating six or eight persons each; the attendants were all young women, becomingly and neatly58 dressed, and dressed alike. I think the whole staff was female, with the exception of the steward59 or manager.
My first inquiries60 were directed to the wages of this staff; because, if any establishment claiming to be self-supporting, live upon the spoliation of anybody or anything, or eke61 out a feeble existence by poor mouths and beggarly resources (as too many so-called Mechanics’ Institutions do), I make bold to express my Uncommercial opinion that it has no business to live, and had better die. It was made clear to me by the account books, that every person employed was properly paid. My next inquiries were directed to the quality of the provisions purchased, and to the terms on which they were bought. It was made equally clear to me that the quality was the very best, and that all bills were paid weekly. My next inquiries were directed to the balance-sheet for the last two weeks — only the third and fourth of the establishment’s career. It was made equally clear to me, that after everything bought was paid for, and after each week was charged with its full share of wages, rent and taxes, depreciation62 of plant in use, and interest on capital at the rate of four per cent. per annum, the last week had yielded a profit of (in round numbers) one pound ten; and the previous week a profit of six pounds ten. By this time I felt that I had a healthy appetite for the dinners.
It had just struck twelve, and a quick succession of faces had already begun to appear at a little window in the wall of the partitioned space where I sat looking over the books. Within this little window, like a pay-box at a theatre, a neat and brisk young woman presided to take money and issue tickets. Every one coming in must take a ticket. Either the fourpence-halfpenny ticket for the upper room (the most popular ticket, I think), or a penny ticket for a bowl of soup, or as many penny tickets as he or she choose to buy. For three penny tickets one had quite a wide range of choice. A plate of cold boiled beef and potatoes; or a plate of cold ham and potatoes; or a plate of hot minced beef and potatoes; or a bowl of soup, bread and cheese, and a plate of plum-pudding. Touching63 what they should have, some customers on taking their seats fell into a reverie — became mildly distracted — postponed64 decision, and said in bewilderment, they would think of it. One old man I noticed when I sat among the tables in the lower room, who was startled by the bill of fare, and sat contemplating65 it as if it were something of a ghostly nature. The decision of the boys was as rapid as their execution, and always included pudding.
There were several women among the diners, and several clerks and shopmen. There were carpenters and painters from the neighbouring buildings under repair, and there were nautical66 men, and there were, as one diner observed to me, ‘some of most sorts.’ Some were solitary67, some came two together, some dined in parties of three or four, or six. The latter talked together, but assuredly no one was louder than at my club in Pall-Mall. One young fellow whistled in rather a shrill68 manner while he waited for his dinner, but I was gratified to observe that he did so in evident defiance69 of my Uncommercial individuality. Quite agreeing with him, on consideration, that I had no business to be there, unless I dined like the rest, ‘I went in,’ as the phrase is, for fourpence-halfpenny.
The room of the fourpence-halfpenny banquet had, like the lower room, a counter in it, on which were ranged a great number of cold portions ready for distribution. Behind this counter, the fragrant70 soup was steaming in deep cans, and the best-cooked of potatoes were fished out of similar receptacles. Nothing to eat was touched with his hand. Every waitress had her own tables to attend to. As soon as she saw a new customer seat himself at one of her tables, she took from the counter all his dinner — his soup, potatoes, meat, and pudding — piled it up dexterously71 in her two hands, set it before him, and took his ticket. This serving of the whole dinner at once, had been found greatly to simplify the business of attendance, and was also popular with the customers: who were thus enabled to vary the meal by varying the routine of dishes: beginning with soup-to-day, putting soup in the middle to-morrow, putting soup at the end the day after to-morrow, and ringing similar changes on meat and pudding. The rapidity with which every new-comer got served, was remarkable72; and the dexterity73 with which the waitresses (quite new to the art a month before) discharged their duty, was as agreeable to see, as the neat smartness with which they wore their dress and had dressed their hair.
If I seldom saw better waiting, so I certainly never ate better meat, potatoes, or pudding. And the soup was an honest and stout74 soup, with rice and barley75 in it, and ‘little matters for the teeth to touch,’ as had been observed to me by my friend below stairs already quoted. The dinner-service, too, was neither conspicuously77 hideous78 for High Art nor for Low Art, but was of a pleasant and pure appearance. Concerning the viands79 and their cookery, one last remark. I dined at my club in Pall-Mall aforesaid, a few days afterwards, for exactly twelve times the money, and not half as well.
The company thickened after one o’clock struck, and changed pretty quickly. Although experience of the place had been so recently attainable80, and although there was still considerable curiosity out in the street and about the entrance, the general tone was as good as could be, and the customers fell easily into the ways of the place. It was clear to me, however, that they were there to have what they paid for, and to be on an independent footing. To the best of my judgment81, they might be patronised out of the building in a month. With judicious82 visiting, and by dint83 of being questioned, read to, and talked at, they might even be got rid of (for the next quarter of a century) in half the time.
This disinterested84 and wise movement is fraught85 with so many wholesome86 changes in the lives of the working people, and with so much good in the way of overcoming that suspicion which our own unconscious impertinence has engendered87, that it is scarcely gracious to criticise88 details as yet; the rather, because it is indisputable that the managers of the Whitechapel establishment most thoroughly89 feel that they are upon their honour with the customers, as to the minutest points of administration. But, although the American stoves cannot roast, they can surely boil one kind of meat as well as another, and need not always circumscribe90 their boiling talents within the limits of ham and beef. The most enthusiastic admirer of those substantials, would probably not object to occasional inconstancy in respect of pork and mutton: or, especially in cold weather, to a little innocent trifling91 with Irish stews92, meat pies, and toads93 in holes. Another drawback on the Whitechapel establishment, is the absence of beer. Regarded merely as a question of policy, it is very impolitic, as having a tendency to send the working men to the public-house, where gin is reported to be sold. But, there is a much higher ground on which this absence of beer is objectionable. It expresses distrust of the working man. It is a fragment of that old mantle94 of patronage in which so many estimable Thugs, so darkly wandering up and down the moral world, are sworn to muffle95 him. Good beer is a good thing for him, he says, and he likes it; the Depot could give it him good, and he now gets it bad. Why does the Depot not give it him good? Because he would get drunk. Why does the Depot not let him have a pint96 with his dinner, which would not make him drunk? Because he might have had another pint, or another two pints97, before he came. Now, this distrust is an affront98, is exceedingly inconsistent with the confidence the managers express in their hand-bills, and is a timid stopping-short upon the straight highway. It is unjust and unreasonable99, also. It is unjust, because it punishes the sober man for the vice76 of the drunken man. It is unreasonable, because any one at all experienced in such things knows that the drunken workman does not get drunk where he goes to eat and drink, but where he goes to drink — expressly to drink. To suppose that the working man cannot state this question to himself quite as plainly as I state it here, is to suppose that he is a baby, and is again to tell him in the old wearisome, condescending100, patronising way that he must be goody-poody, and do as he is toldy-poldy, and not be a manny-panny or a voter-poter, but fold his handy-pandys, and be a childy-pildy.
I found from the accounts of the Whitechapel Self-Supporting Cooking Depot, that every article sold in it, even at the prices I have quoted, yields a certain small profit! Individual speculators are of course already in the field, and are of course already appropriating the name. The classes for whose benefit the real depots101 are designed, will distinguish between the two kinds of enterprise.
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abortive
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| adj.不成功的，发育不全的 | |
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gallant
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| adj.英勇的，豪侠的；(向女人)献殷勤的 | |
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rue
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| n.懊悔，芸香，后悔；v.后悔，悲伤，懊悔 | |
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distinctive
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| adj.特别的，有特色的，与众不同的 | |
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picturesqueness
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bonnets
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| n.童帽( bonnet的名词复数 )；（烟囱等的）覆盖物；（苏格兰男子的）无边呢帽；（女子戴的）任何一种帽子 | |
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second-hand
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| adj.用过的，旧的，二手的 | |
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descend
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| vt./vi.传下来，下来，下降 | |
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fully
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| adv.完全地，全部地，彻底地；充分地 | |
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inconvenient
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| adj.不方便的，令人感到麻烦的 | |
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deriving
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| v.得到( derive的现在分词 )；（从…中）得到获得；源于；（从…中）提取 | |
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descends
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| v.下来( descend的第三人称单数 )；下去；下降；下斜 | |
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appalling
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| adj.骇人听闻的，令人震惊的，可怕的 | |
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shamefully
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| 可耻地； 丢脸地； 不体面地； 羞耻地 | |
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peculiar
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| adj.古怪的，异常的；特殊的，特有的 | |
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mighty
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| adj.强有力的；巨大的 | |
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pretence
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| n.假装，作假；借口，口实；虚伪；虚饰 | |
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pretences
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| n.假装( pretence的名词复数 )；作假；自命；自称 | |
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virtuous
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| adj.有品德的，善良的，贞洁的，有效力的 | |
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whatsoever
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| adv.（用于否定句中以加强语气）任何；pron.无论什么 | |
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tiresome
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| adj.令人疲劳的，令人厌倦的 | |
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toady
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| v.奉承；n.谄媚者，马屁精 | |
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savage
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| adj.野蛮的；凶恶的，残暴的；n.未开化的人 | |
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warfare
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patronage
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| n.赞助，支援，援助；光顾，捧场 | |
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instinctive
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| adj.(出于)本能的；直觉的；(出于)天性的 | |
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unduly
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| adv.过度地，不适当地 | |
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devoted
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| adj.忠诚的，忠实的，热心的，献身于...的 | |
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complacent
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condescension
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amuck
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| ad.狂乱地 | |
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strictly
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| adv.严厉地，严格地；严密地 | |
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providence
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| n.深谋远虑，天道，天意；远见；节约；上帝 | |
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festive
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| adj.欢宴的，节日的 | |
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tingled
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| v.有刺痛感( tingle的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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asinine
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| adj.愚蠢的 | |
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chisels
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| n.凿子，錾子( chisel的名词复数 )；口凿 | |
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discoursed
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| 演说（discourse的过去式与过去分词形式） | |
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advancement
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| n.前进，促进，提升 | |
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derivable
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| adj.可引出的，可推论的，可诱导的 | |
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reluctance
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| n.厌恶，讨厌，勉强，不情愿 | |
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vanquished
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| v.征服( vanquish的过去式和过去分词 )；战胜；克服；抑制 | |
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diffusion
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| n.流布；普及；散漫 | |
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depot
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| n.仓库，储藏处；公共汽车站；火车站 | |
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ginger
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| n.姜，精力，淡赤黄色；adj.淡赤黄色的；vt.使活泼，使有生气 | |
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scotch
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| n.伤口，刻痕；苏格兰威士忌酒；v.粉碎，消灭，阻止；adj.苏格兰(人)的 | |
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broth
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| n.原(汁)汤(鱼汤、肉汤、菜汤等) | |
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minced
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| v.切碎( mince的过去式和过去分词 )；剁碎；绞碎；用绞肉机绞（食物，尤指肉） | |
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simplicity
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| n.简单，简易；朴素；直率，单纯 | |
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specially
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| adv.特定地；特殊地；明确地 | |
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fixed
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| adj.固定的，不变的，准备好的；(计算机)固定的 | |
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interfering
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| adj. 妨碍的 动词interfere的现在分词 | |
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regularity
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| n.规律性，规则性；匀称，整齐 | |
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warehouse
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| n.仓库；vt.存入仓库 | |
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premises
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| n.建筑物，房屋 | |
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previously
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| adv.以前，先前（地） | |
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ornamental
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| adj.装饰的；作装饰用的；n.装饰品；观赏植物 | |
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neatly
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| adv.整洁地，干净地，灵巧地，熟练地 | |
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steward
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| n.乘务员，服务员；看管人；膳食管理员 | |
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inquiries
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| n.调查( inquiry的名词复数 )；疑问；探究；打听 | |
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eke
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| v.勉强度日，节约使用 | |
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depreciation
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| n.价值低落，贬值，蔑视，贬低 | |
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63
touching
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| adj.动人的，使人感伤的 | |
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postponed
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| vt.& vi.延期，缓办，（使）延迟vt.把…放在次要地位；[语]把…放在后面（或句尾）vi.（疟疾等）延缓发作（或复发） | |
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contemplating
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| 深思，细想，仔细考虑( contemplate的现在分词 )； 注视，凝视； 考虑接受（发生某事的可能性）； 深思熟虑，沉思，苦思冥想 | |
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nautical
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| adj.海上的，航海的，船员的 | |
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67
solitary
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| adj.孤独的，独立的，荒凉的；n.隐士 | |
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shrill
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| adj.尖声的；刺耳的；v尖叫 | |
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defiance
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| n.挑战，挑衅，蔑视，违抗 | |
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fragrant
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| adj.芬香的，馥郁的，愉快的 | |
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dexterously
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| adv.巧妙地，敏捷地 | |
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remarkable
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| adj.显著的，异常的，非凡的，值得注意的 | |
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dexterity
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| n.(手的)灵巧，灵活 | |
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barley
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| n.大麦，大麦粒 | |
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vice
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| n.坏事；恶习；[pl.]台钳，老虎钳；adj.副的 | |
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conspicuously
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| ad.明显地，惹人注目地 | |
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78
hideous
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| adj.丑陋的，可憎的，可怕的，恐怖的 | |
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viands
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| n.食品，食物 | |
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80
attainable
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| a.可达到的，可获得的 | |
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81
judgment
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| n.审判；判断力，识别力，看法，意见 | |
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judicious
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| adj.明智的，明断的，能作出明智决定的 | |
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dint
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| n.由于，靠；凹坑 | |
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disinterested
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| adj.不关心的，不感兴趣的 | |
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fraught
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| adj.充满…的，伴有(危险等)的；忧虑的 | |
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wholesome
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| adj.适合；卫生的；有益健康的；显示身心健康的 | |
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engendered
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| v.产生（某形势或状况），造成，引起( engender的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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criticise
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| v.批评，评论；非难 | |
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thoroughly
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| adv.完全地，彻底地，十足地 | |
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90
circumscribe
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| v.在...周围划线，限制，约束 | |
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trifling
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| adj.微不足道的；没什么价值的 | |
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92
stews
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| n.炖煮的菜肴( stew的名词复数 )；烦恼，焦虑v.炖( stew的第三人称单数 )；煨；思考；担忧 | |
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toads
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| n.蟾蜍，癞蛤蟆( toad的名词复数 ) | |
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mantle
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| n.斗篷，覆罩之物，罩子；v.罩住，覆盖，脸红 | |
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muffle
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| v.围裹；抑制；发低沉的声音 | |
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pint
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| n.品脱 | |
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97
pints
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| n.品脱( pint的名词复数 )；一品脱啤酒 | |
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98
affront
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| n./v.侮辱，触怒 | |
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99
unreasonable
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| adj.不讲道理的，不合情理的，过度的 | |
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100
condescending
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| adj.谦逊的,故意屈尊的 | |
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101
depots
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| 仓库( depot的名词复数 )； 火车站； 车库； 军需库 | |
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