For my own part, as the gondola slipped away from the blaze and bustle19 of the station down the gloom and silence of the broad canal, I forgot that I had been freezing two days and nights; that I was at that moment very cold and a little homesick. I could at first feel nothing but that beautiful silence, broken only by the star-silvered dip of the oars20. Then on either hand I saw stately palaces rise gray and lofty from the dark waters, holding here and there a lamp against their faces, which brought balconies, and columns, and carven arches into momentary21 relief, and threw long streams of crimson22 into the canal. I could see by that uncertain glimmer23 how fair was all, but not how sad and old; and so, unhaunted by any pang24 for the decay that afterward25 saddened me amid the forlorn beauty of Venice, I glided26 on. I have no doubt it was a proper time to think all the fantastic things in the world, and I thought them; but they passed vaguely27 through my mind, without at all interrupting the sensations of sight and sound. Indeed, the past and present mixed there, and the moral and material were blent in the sentiment of utter novelty and surprise. The quick boat slid through old troubles of mine, and unlooked-for events gave it the impulse that carried it beyond, and safely around sharp corners of life. And all the while I knew that this was a progress through narrow and crooked28 canals, and past marble angles of palaces. But I did not know then that this fine confusion of sense and spirit was the first faint impression of the charm of life in Venice.
Dark, funereal29 barges30 like my own had flitted by, and the gondoliers had warned each other at every turning with hoarse31, lugubrious32 cries; the lines of balconied palaces had never ended;—here and there at their doors larger craft were moored33, with dim figures of men moving uncertainly about on them. At last we had passed abruptly34 out of the Grand Canal into one of the smaller channels, and from comparative light into a darkness only remotely affected35 by some far-streaming corner lamp. But always the pallid36, stately palaces; always the dark heaven with its trembling stars above, and the dark water with its trembling stars below; but now innumerable bridges, and an utter lonesomeness, and ceaseless sudden turns and windings37. One could not resist a vague feeling of anxiety, in these strait and solitary38 passages, which was part of the strange enjoyment39 of the time, and which was referable to the novelty, the hush40, the darkness, and the piratical appearance and unaccountable pauses of the gondoliers. Was not this Venice, and is not Venice forever associated with bravoes and unexpected dagger-thrusts? That valise of mine might represent fabulous41 wealth to the uncultivated imagination. Who, if I made an outcry, could understand the Facts of the Situation—(as we say in the journals)? To move on was relief; to pause was regret for past transgressions42 mingled43 with good resolutions for the future. But I felt the liveliest mixture of all these emotions, when, slipping from the cover of a bridge, the gondola suddenly rested at the foot of a stairway before a closely-barred door. The gondoliers rang and rang again, while their passenger
“Divided the swift mind,”
in the wonder whether a door so grimly bolted and austerely44 barred could possibly open into a hotel, with cheerful overcharges for candles and service. But as soon as the door opened, and he beheld45 the honest swindling countenance46 of a hotel portier, he felt secure against every thing but imposture47, and all wild absurdities48 of doubt and conjecture49 at once faded from his thought, when the portier suffered the gondoliers to make him pay a florin too much.
So, I had arrived in Venice, and I had felt the influence of that complex spell which she lays upon the stranger. I had caught the most alluring50 glimpses of the beauty which cannot wholly perish while any fragment of her sculptured walls nods to its shadow in the canal; I had been penetrated51 by a deep sense of the mystery of the place, and I had been touched already by the anomaly of modern life amid scenes where its presence offers, according to the humor in which it is studied, constant occasion for annoyance52 or delight, enthusiasm or sadness.
I fancy that the ignorant impressions of the earlier days after my arrival need scarcely be set down even in this perishable53 record; but I would not wholly forget how, though isolated54 from all acquaintance and alien to the place, I yet felt curiously56 at home in Venice from the first. I believe it was because I had, after my own fashion, loved the beautiful that I here found the beautiful, where it is supreme57, full of society and friendship, speaking a language which, even in its unfamiliar58 forms, I could partly understand, and at once making me citizen of that Venice from which I shall never be exiled. It was not in the presence of the great and famous monuments of art alone that I felt at home—indeed, I could as yet understand their excellence59 and grandeur60 only very imperfectly—but wherever I wandered through the quaint55 and marvelous city, I found the good company of
“The fair, the old;”
and to tell the truth, I think it is the best society in Venice, and I learned to turn to it later from other companionship with a kind of relief.
My first rambles61, moreover, had a peculiar62 charm which knowledge of locality has since taken away. They began commonly with some purpose or destination, and ended by losing me in the intricacies of the narrowest, crookedest, and most inconsequent little streets in the world, or left me cast-away upon the unfamiliar waters of some canal as far as possible from the point aimed at. Dark and secret little courts lay in wait for my blundering steps, and I was incessantly63 surprised and brought to surrender by paths that beguiled64 me up to dead walls, or the sudden brinks of canals. The wide and open squares before the innumerable churches of the city were equally victorious65, and continually took me prisoner. But all places had something rare and worthy66 to be seen: if not loveliness of sculpture or architecture, at least interesting squalor and picturesque wretchedness: and I believe I had less delight in proper Objects of Interest than in the dirty neighborhoods that reeked67 with unwholesome winter damps below, and peered curiously out with frowzy69 heads and beautiful eyes from the high, heavy-shuttered casements70 above. Every court had its carven well to show me, in the noisy keeping of the water-carriers and the slatternly, statuesque gossips of the place. The remote and noisome71 canals were pathetic with empty old palaces peopled by herds72 of poor, that decorated the sculptured balconies with the tatters of epicene linen73, and patched the lofty windows with obsolete74 hats.
I found the night as full of beauty as the day, when caprice led me from the brilliancy of St. Mark’s and the glittering streets of shops that branch away from the Piazza75, and lost me in the quaint recesses76 of the courts, or the tangles77 of the distant alleys78, where the dull little oil-lamps vied with the tapers79 burning before the street-corner shrines80 of the Virgin81, 5 in making the way obscure, and deepening the shadows about the doorways82 and under the frequent arches. I remember distinctly among the beautiful nights of that time, the soft night of late winter which first showed me the scene you may behold83 from the Public Gardens at the end of the long concave line of the Riva degli Schiavoni. Lounging there upon the southern parapet of the Gardens, I turned from the dim bell-towers of the evanescent islands in the east (a solitary gondola gliding84 across the calm of the water, and striking its moonlight silver into multitudinous ripples), and glanced athwart the vague shipping85 in the basin of St. Mark, and saw all the lights from the Piazzetta to the Giudecca, making a crescent of flame in the air, and casting deep into the water under them a crimson glory that sank also down and down in my own heart, and illumined all its memories of beauty and delight. Behind these lamps rose the shadowy masses of church and palace; the moon stood bright and full in the heavens; the gondola drifted away to the northward86; the islands of the lagoons87 seemed to rise and sink with the light palpitations of the waves like pictures on the undulating fields of banners; the stark88 rigging of a ship showed black against the sky, the Lido sank from sight upon the east, as if the shore had composed itself to sleep by the side of its beloved sea to the music of the surge that gently beat its sands; the yet leafless boughs89 of the trees above me stirred themselves together, and out of one of those trembling towers in the lagoons, one rich, full sob90 burst from the heart of a bell, too deeply stricken with the glory of the scene, and suffused91 the languid night with the murmur92 of luxurious93, ineffable94 sadness.
But there is a perfect democracy in the realm of the beautiful, and whatsoever96 pleases is equal to any other thing there, no matter how low its origin or humble97 its composition; and the magnificence of that moonlight scene gave me no deeper joy than I won from the fine spectacle of an old man whom I saw burning coffee one night in the little court behind my lodgings98, and whom I recollect5 now as one of the most interesting people I saw in my first days at Venice. All day long the air of that neighbourhood had reeked with the odors of the fragrant99 berry, and all day long this patient old man—sage, let me call him—had turned the sheet-iron cylinder100 in which it was roasting over an open fire after the picturesque fashion of roasting coffee in Venice. Now that the night had fallen, and the stars shone down upon him, and the red of the flame luridly101 illumined him, he showed more grand and venerable than ever. Simple, abstract humanity, has its own grandeur in Italy; and it is not hard here for the artist to find the primitive102 types with which genius loves best to deal. As for this old man, he had the beard of a saint, and the dignity of a senator, harmonized with the squalor of a beggar, superior to which shone his abstract, unconscious grandeur of humanity. A vast and calm melancholy103, which had nothing to do with burning coffee, dwelt in his aspect and attitude; and if he had been some dread104 supernatural agency, turning the wheel of fortune, and doing men, instead of coffee, brown, he could not have looked more sadly and weirdly105 impressive. When, presently, he rose from his seat, and lifted the cylinder from its place, and the clinging flames leaped after it, and he shook it, and a volume of luminous106 smoke enveloped107 him and glorified108 him—then I felt with secret anguish109 that he was beyond art, and turned sadly from the spectacle of that sublime110 and hopeless magnificence.
At other times (but this was in broad daylight) I was troubled by the aesthetic111 perfection of a certain ruffian boy, who sold cakes of baked Indian-meal to the soldiers in the military station near the Piazza, and whom I often noted112 from the windows of the little caffè there, where you get an excellent caffè bianco (coffee with milk) for ten soldi and one to the waiter. I have reason to fear that this boy dealt over shrewdly with the Austrians, for a pitiless war raged between him and one of the sergeants113. His hair was dark, his cheek was of a bronze better than olive; and he wore a brave cap of red flannel114, drawn115 down to eyes of lustrous116 black. For the rest, he gave unity117 and coherence118 to a jacket and pantaloons of heterogeneous119 elements, and, such was the elasticity120 of his spirit, a buoyant grace to feet encased in wooden shoes. Habitually121 came a barrel-organist, and ground before the barracks, and
“Took the soul
Of that waste place with joy;”
and ever, when this organist came to a certain lively waltz, and threw his whole soul, as it were, into the crank of his instrument, my beloved ragamuffin failed not to seize another cake-boy in his arms, and thus embraced, to whirl through a wild inspiration of figures, in which there was something grotesquely122 rhythmic123, something of indescribable barbaric magnificence, spiritualized into a grace of movement superior to the energy of the North and the extravagant124 fervor125 of the East. It was coffee and not wine that I drank, but I fable95 all the same that I saw reflected in this superb and artistic126 superation of the difficulties of dancing in that unfriendly foot-gear, something of the same genius that combated and vanquished127 the elements, to build its home upon sea-washed sands in marble structures of airy and stately splendor128, and gave to architecture new glories full of eternal surprise.
So, I say, I grew early into sympathy and friendship with Venice, and being newly from a land where every thing, morally and materially, was in good repair, I rioted sentimentally129 on the picturesque ruin, the pleasant discomfort130 and hopelessness of every thing about me here. It was not yet the season to behold all the delight of the lazy, out-door life of the place; but nevertheless I could not help seeing that great part of the people, both rich and poor, seemed to have nothing to do, and that nobody seemed to be driven by any inward or outward impulse. When, however, I ceased (as I must in time) to be merely a spectator of this idleness, and learned that I too must assume my share of the common indolence, I found it a grievous burden. Old habits of work, old habits of hope, made my endless leisure irksome to me, and almost intolerable when I ascertained131 fairly and finally that in my desire to fulfill132 long-cherished, but, after all, merely general designs of literary study, I had forsaken133 wholesome68 struggle in the currents where I felt the motion of the age, only to drift into a lifeless eddy134 of the world, remote from incentive135 and sensation.
For such is Venice, and the will must be strong and the faith indomitable in him who can long retain, amid the influences of her stagnant136 quiet, a practical belief in God’s purpose of a great moving, anxious, toiling137, aspiring138 world outside. When you have yielded, as after a while I yielded, to these influences, a gentle incredulity possesses you, and if you consent that such a thing is as earnest and useful life, you cannot help wondering why it need be. The charm of the place sweetens your temper, but corrupts139 you; and I found it a sad condition of my perception of the beauty of Venice and friendship with it, that I came in some unconscious way to regard her fate as my own; and when I began to write the sketches140 which go to form this book, it was as hard to speak of any ugliness in her, or of the doom141 written against her in the hieroglyphic142 seams and fissures143 of her crumbling144 masonry145, as if the fault and penalty were mine. I do not so greatly blame, therefore, the writers who have committed so many sins of omission146 concerning her, and made her all light, color, canals, and palaces. One’s conscience, more or less uncomfortably vigilant147 elsewhere, drowses here, and it is difficult to remember that fact is more virtuous148 than fiction. In other years, when there was life in the city, and this sad ebb149 of prosperity was full tide in her canals, there might have been some incentive to keep one’s thoughts and words from lapsing150 into habits of luxurious dishonesty, some reason for telling the whole hard truth of things, some policy to serve, some end to gain. But now, what matter?
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1
gondola
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| n.威尼斯的平底轻舟；飞船的吊船 | |
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solely
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| adv.仅仅，唯一地 | |
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picturesque
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| adj.美丽如画的，（语言）生动的，绘声绘色的 | |
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desultory
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| adj.散漫的，无方法的 | |
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recollect
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| v.回忆，想起，记起，忆起，记得 | |
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6
miraculous
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| adj.像奇迹一样的，不可思议的 | |
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infamous
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| adj.声名狼藉的，臭名昭著的，邪恶的 | |
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brigands
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| n.土匪，强盗( brigand的名词复数 ) | |
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implored
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| 恳求或乞求（某人）( implore的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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exult
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| v.狂喜，欢腾；欢欣鼓舞 | |
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blessings
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| n.（上帝的）祝福( blessing的名词复数 )；好事；福分；因祸得福 | |
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12
jaded
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| adj.精疲力竭的；厌倦的；（因过饱或过多而）腻烦的；迟钝的 | |
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13
tangled
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| adj. 纠缠的，紊乱的 动词tangle的过去式和过去分词 | |
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14
exquisite
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| adj.精美的；敏锐的；剧烈的，感觉强烈的 | |
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bland
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| adj.淡而无味的，温和的，无刺激性的 | |
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advent
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| n.(重要事件等的)到来，来临 | |
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17
enchanted
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| adj. 被施魔法的，陶醉的，入迷的 动词enchant的过去式和过去分词 | |
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18
perfectly
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| adv.完美地，无可非议地，彻底地 | |
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bustle
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| v.喧扰地忙乱，匆忙，奔忙；n.忙碌；喧闹 | |
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oars
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| n.桨，橹( oar的名词复数 )；划手v.划（行）( oar的第三人称单数 ) | |
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21
momentary
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| adj.片刻的，瞬息的；短暂的 | |
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22
crimson
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| n./adj.深(绯)红色(的)；vi.脸变绯红色 | |
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glimmer
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| v.发出闪烁的微光；n.微光，微弱的闪光 | |
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pang
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| n.剧痛，悲痛，苦闷 | |
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afterward
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| adv.后来；以后 | |
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glided
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| v.滑动( glide的过去式和过去分词 )；掠过；（鸟或飞机 ） 滑翔 | |
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27
vaguely
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| adv.含糊地，暖昧地 | |
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crooked
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| adj.弯曲的；不诚实的，狡猾的，不正当的 | |
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funereal
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| adj.悲哀的；送葬的 | |
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30
barges
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| 驳船( barge的名词复数 ) | |
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hoarse
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| adj.嘶哑的，沙哑的 | |
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lugubrious
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| adj.悲哀的，忧郁的 | |
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33
moored
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| adj. 系泊的 动词moor的过去式和过去分词形式 | |
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abruptly
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| adv.突然地，出其不意地 | |
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affected
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| adj.不自然的，假装的 | |
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pallid
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| adj.苍白的，呆板的 | |
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windings
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| （道路、河流等）蜿蜒的，弯曲的( winding的名词复数 )； 缠绕( wind的现在分词 )； 卷绕； 转动（把手） | |
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solitary
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| adj.孤独的，独立的，荒凉的；n.隐士 | |
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enjoyment
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| n.乐趣；享有；享用 | |
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40
hush
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| int.嘘，别出声；n.沉默，静寂；v.使安静 | |
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41
fabulous
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| adj.极好的；极为巨大的；寓言中的，传说中的 | |
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42
transgressions
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| n.违反，违法，罪过( transgression的名词复数 ) | |
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43
mingled
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| 混合，混入( mingle的过去式和过去分词 )； 混进，与…交往[联系] | |
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44
austerely
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| adv.严格地，朴质地 | |
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45
beheld
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| v.看，注视( behold的过去式和过去分词 )；瞧；看呀；（叙述中用于引出某人意外的出现）哎哟 | |
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46
countenance
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| n.脸色，面容；面部表情；vt.支持，赞同 | |
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imposture
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| n.冒名顶替，欺骗 | |
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absurdities
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| n.极端无理性( absurdity的名词复数 )；荒谬；谬论；荒谬的行为 | |
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49
conjecture
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| n./v.推测，猜测 | |
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50
alluring
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| adj.吸引人的，迷人的 | |
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51
penetrated
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| adj. 击穿的，鞭辟入里的 动词penetrate的过去式和过去分词形式 | |
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52
annoyance
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| n.恼怒，生气，烦恼 | |
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53
perishable
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| adj.（尤指食物）易腐的，易坏的 | |
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isolated
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| adj.与世隔绝的 | |
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quaint
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| adj.古雅的，离奇有趣的，奇怪的 | |
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56
curiously
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| adv.有求知欲地；好问地；奇特地 | |
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supreme
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| adj.极度的，最重要的；至高的，最高的 | |
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unfamiliar
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| adj.陌生的，不熟悉的 | |
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59
excellence
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| n.优秀，杰出，(pl.)优点，美德 | |
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grandeur
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| n.伟大，崇高，宏伟，庄严，豪华 | |
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rambles
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| （无目的地）漫游( ramble的第三人称单数 )； （喻）漫谈； 扯淡； 长篇大论 | |
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62
peculiar
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| adj.古怪的，异常的；特殊的，特有的 | |
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incessantly
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| ad.不停地 | |
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64
beguiled
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| v.欺骗( beguile的过去式和过去分词 )；使陶醉；使高兴；消磨（时间等） | |
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victorious
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| adj.胜利的，得胜的 | |
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worthy
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| adj.(of)值得的，配得上的；有价值的 | |
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reeked
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| v.发出浓烈的臭气( reek的过去式和过去分词 )；散发臭气；发出难闻的气味 (of sth)；明显带有（令人不快或生疑的跡象） | |
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wholesome
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| adj.适合；卫生的；有益健康的；显示身心健康的 | |
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69
frowzy
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| adj.不整洁的；污秽的 | |
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70
casements
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| n.窗扉( casement的名词复数 ) | |
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71
noisome
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| adj.有害的，可厌的 | |
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72
herds
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| 兽群( herd的名词复数 )； 牧群； 人群； 群众 | |
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73
linen
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| n.亚麻布，亚麻线，亚麻制品；adj.亚麻布制的，亚麻的 | |
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74
obsolete
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| adj.已废弃的，过时的 | |
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75
piazza
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| n.广场；走廊 | |
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76
recesses
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| n.壁凹( recess的名词复数 )；（工作或业务活动的）中止或暂停期间；学校的课间休息；某物内部的凹形空间v.把某物放在墙壁的凹处( recess的第三人称单数 )；将（墙）做成凹形，在（墙）上做壁龛；休息，休会，休庭 | |
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77
tangles
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| （使）缠结， （使）乱作一团( tangle的第三人称单数 ) | |
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78
alleys
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| 胡同，小巷( alley的名词复数 )； 小径 | |
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79
tapers
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| （长形物体的）逐渐变窄( taper的名词复数 )； 微弱的光； 极细的蜡烛 | |
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80
shrines
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| 圣地，圣坛，神圣场所( shrine的名词复数 ) | |
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81
virgin
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| n.处女，未婚女子；adj.未经使用的；未经开发的 | |
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82
doorways
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| n.门口，门道( doorway的名词复数 ) | |
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83
behold
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| v.看，注视，看到 | |
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84
gliding
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| v. 滑翔 adj. 滑动的 | |
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85
shipping
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| n.船运（发货，运输，乘船） | |
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86
northward
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| adv.向北；n.北方的地区 | |
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87
lagoons
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| n.污水池( lagoon的名词复数 )；潟湖；（大湖或江河附近的）小而浅的淡水湖；温泉形成的池塘 | |
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88
stark
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| adj.荒凉的；严酷的；完全的；adv.完全地 | |
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89
boughs
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| 大树枝( bough的名词复数 ) | |
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90
sob
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| n.空间轨道的轰炸机；呜咽，哭泣 | |
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91
suffused
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| v.（指颜色、水气等）弥漫于，布满( suffuse的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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92
murmur
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| n.低语，低声的怨言；v.低语，低声而言 | |
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93
luxurious
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| adj.精美而昂贵的；豪华的 | |
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94
ineffable
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| adj.无法表达的，不可言喻的 | |
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95
fable
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| n.寓言；童话；神话 | |
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96
whatsoever
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| adv.（用于否定句中以加强语气）任何；pron.无论什么 | |
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97
humble
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| adj.谦卑的，恭顺的；地位低下的；v.降低，贬低 | |
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98
lodgings
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| n. 出租的房舍, 寄宿舍 | |
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99
fragrant
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| adj.芬香的，馥郁的，愉快的 | |
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100
cylinder
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| n.圆筒，柱(面)，汽缸 | |
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101
luridly
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| adv. 青灰色的(苍白的, 深浓色的, 火焰等火红的) | |
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102
primitive
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| adj.原始的；简单的；n.原(始)人，原始事物 | |
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103
melancholy
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| n.忧郁，愁思；adj.令人感伤（沮丧）的，忧郁的 | |
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104
dread
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| vt.担忧，忧虑；惧怕，不敢；n.担忧，畏惧 | |
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105
weirdly
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| 古怪地 | |
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106
luminous
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| adj.发光的，发亮的；光明的；明白易懂的；有启发的 | |
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107
enveloped
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| v.包围，笼罩，包住( envelop的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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108
glorified
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| 美其名的，变荣耀的 | |
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109
anguish
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| n.(尤指心灵上的)极度痛苦，烦恼 | |
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110
sublime
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| adj.崇高的，伟大的；极度的，不顾后果的 | |
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111
aesthetic
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| adj.美学的，审美的，有美感 | |
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112
noted
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| adj.著名的，知名的 | |
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113
sergeants
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| 警官( sergeant的名词复数 )； （美国警察）警佐； （英国警察）巡佐； 陆军（或空军）中士 | |
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114
flannel
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| n.法兰绒；法兰绒衣服 | |
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115
drawn
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| v.拖，拉，拔出；adj.憔悴的，紧张的 | |
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116
lustrous
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| adj.有光泽的；光辉的 | |
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117
unity
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| n.团结，联合，统一；和睦，协调 | |
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118
coherence
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| n.紧凑；连贯；一致性 | |
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119
heterogeneous
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| adj.庞杂的；异类的 | |
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120
elasticity
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| n.弹性，伸缩力 | |
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121
habitually
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| ad.习惯地，通常地 | |
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122
grotesquely
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| adv. 奇异地,荒诞地 | |
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123
rhythmic
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| adj.有节奏的，有韵律的 | |
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124
extravagant
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| adj.奢侈的；过分的；(言行等)放肆的 | |
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125
fervor
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| n.热诚；热心；炽热 | |
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126
artistic
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| adj.艺术(家)的，美术(家)的；善于艺术创作的 | |
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127
vanquished
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| v.征服( vanquish的过去式和过去分词 )；战胜；克服；抑制 | |
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128
splendor
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| n.光彩；壮丽，华丽；显赫，辉煌 | |
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129
sentimentally
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| adv.富情感地 | |
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130
discomfort
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| n.不舒服，不安，难过，困难，不方便 | |
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131
ascertained
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| v.弄清，确定，查明( ascertain的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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132
fulfill
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| vt.履行，实现，完成；满足，使满意 | |
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133
Forsaken
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| adj. 被遗忘的, 被抛弃的 动词forsake的过去分词 | |
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134
eddy
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| n.漩涡，涡流 | |
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135
incentive
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| n.刺激；动力；鼓励；诱因；动机 | |
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136
stagnant
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| adj.不流动的，停滞的，不景气的 | |
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137
toiling
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| 长时间或辛苦地工作( toil的现在分词 )； 艰难缓慢地移动，跋涉 | |
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138
aspiring
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| adj.有志气的；有抱负的；高耸的v.渴望；追求 | |
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139
corrupts
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| （使）败坏( corrupt的第三人称单数 )； （使）腐化； 引起（计算机文件等的）错误； 破坏 | |
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140
sketches
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| n.草图( sketch的名词复数 )；素描；速写；梗概 | |
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141
doom
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| n.厄运，劫数；v.注定，命定 | |
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142
hieroglyphic
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| n.象形文字 | |
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143
fissures
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| n.狭长裂缝或裂隙( fissure的名词复数 )；裂伤；分歧；分裂v.裂开( fissure的第三人称单数 ) | |
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144
crumbling
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| adj.摇摇欲坠的 | |
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145
masonry
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| n.砖土建筑；砖石 | |
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146
omission
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| n.省略，删节；遗漏或省略的事物，冗长 | |
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147
vigilant
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| adj.警觉的，警戒的，警惕的 | |
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148
virtuous
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| adj.有品德的，善良的，贞洁的，有效力的 | |
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149
ebb
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| vi.衰退，减退；n.处于低潮，处于衰退状态 | |
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150
lapsing
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| v.退步( lapse的现在分词 )；陷入；倒退；丧失 | |
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