LINDISFARNE: HEXHAM: JARROW: FINCHALE
LINDISFARNE (Benedictine)
St Aidan, in the 7th century, builds a church and monastery1 on the island of Lindisfarne; land given to him for this purpose by Oswald, King of Northumbria; the rules of St Columba observed—875, Entirely3 destroyed by the Danes—1093, Priory church built on site of St Aidan’s church and monastery established by monks5 from Whitby—15—, Dissolved—1887, 3000 pilgrims visit the ruined abbey—1888, Excavations6 undertaken which result in revealing some of the foundations.
’MIDST the wild breakers and the thundering sea, an oasis8 in the desert of water, lies Holy Island, not far separated from the rude coast of Northumberland; and in this island rise the remains9 of a once stately edifice10, the Abbey of Lindisfarne. It must not be supposed that the remains now standing11 are those of the original Celtic monastery, established by St Aidan, for, when the Danes, with irresistible12 force, invaded our island in 875, almost without warning, the old Abbey of Lindisfarne was utterly13 destroyed and the body of the saintly Cuthbert borne across the narrow waters by the monks, mid7 the glare of conflagration14. Not one single stone of{18} this monastery remains; the present ruins are those of a Benedictine priory, founded in the 11th century by a band of holy fathers from Whitby, who, eager to possess themselves of the land made sacred by the names of St Aidan, St Cuthbert, and those men who died at the hands of the Viking Invaders15, determined17 to raise yet another stately building, and to make it their home.
For three and a half centuries, since the last prior, Thomas Sparke, was ejected at the bidding of Henry VIII., desolation has reigned19 supreme20; but Lindisfarne, though small, is well preserved. It was built of strong red sandstone carried laboriously21 from the mainland. It was, moreover, built especially to withstand the fury of the gale22 and the ferocity of the invader16. The insatiable greed, however, of much more modern vandals, who despoiled23 it of the lead from the roofs, and the roofs from the walls, until all stood bare and desolate24, compassed its destruction. This, coupled with years and years of neglect and petty stealing, has brought the abbey to its present state. The mighty25 red walls have crumbled26 and fallen away, the tower lies a heap of little more than dust, the vaults27 have completely disappeared, but much yet remains to bear witness to the self-sacrifice and devotion of these early communities. As regards architecture, Lindisfarne is strongly in the English-Norman style. There is none of the Saxon here, as Scott would have us believe—“In Saxon strength that abbey frowned,” he says. Lindisfarne, if we except the sanctuary28—which belongs to the 15th century—is perhaps the most perfect example of 11th century architecture in England. The abbey does not receive the patronage29 it deserves, for it is a spot with unrivalled historical and sacred memories—a place full of melancholy30 splendour and barren grandeur31.{19}
HEXHAM (Augustine Canons)
674, A religious institution founded in Hexham by St Wilfrid—821, Church destroyed by the Danes—1113, Church rebuilt and endowed by Thomas II. Archbishop of York, and dedicated33 to St Andrew; Augustine Canons placed there—1296, The nave34 burnt down—1297, Unsuccessful attempts made to restore the nave—1537, Monastery surrendered to Henry VIII.—1706, St Wilfrid’s crypt discovered under the nave of the choir35—1907, The foundation stones of the new nave laid.
The town of Hexham, picturesquely36 situated37 on the southern bank of the river Tyne, 19 miles north of Newcastle, was once the centre of Border warfare38 and at one time a Roman station. To the west of the old market-place, one of the most interesting in England, stands the ancient abbey—a type of Early English architecture. Of the original Saxon structure the crypt alone remains, under the nave of the choir, consisting of a central and an ante-chamber, with two passages to the west and south. The Roman stones of which it is built were probably brought from the ancient Roman station of Corstopitum (3? miles distant from Hexham). Unfortunately very little remains of the 12th century church—only, in fact, the greater part of the choir (with the exception of the Early English chapel) and both transepts. Of the conventual buildings we have still the refectory, some portions of the cloisters40 and the precinct gate. The greater part of the old woodwork was destroyed in the so-called restoration of the present church in 1858; but an exquisitely41 carved rood screen, and, on the south side of the altar, the Frith stool (supposed to have been St Wilfrid’s chair), may still be seen. Among the many monuments in the present church of special interest is a peculiar42 slab43 on which is depicted44 a Roman horseman, discovered beneath the south entrance in 1881.
Until the time of Henry I. the Bishop32 of Durham exercised ecclesiastical jurisdiction45 over this monastery,{20} but in this reign18 it was included in the See of York. The church was then rebuilt and Thomas II. of York founded a priory of Augustine Canons. “It was found by inquisition taken in the four and twentieth reign of Edward I. that Thomas the Second, Archbishop of York, did found and endow this Priory—the lands by him given, and by many other Benefactors46, were all found and set forth47 in particular.”
In the following century the nave of the church was destroyed by the Scots, and with the exception of some unsuccessful attempts at restoration, was not rebuilt until last year (1907), when the foundation stones of the new nave were laid on June 29th.
Hexham Abbey does not stand alone as a religious house owing its origin to the self-sacrifice and piety48 of a woman. Queen Etheldreda, the wife of Ecgfrid, King of Northumbria, gave land, which formed part of her dower (including the parishes of Hexham, Allendale, and St John Lee), to St Wilfrid. A monastery was founded in 674, and a church built, which, according to Richard, prior of Hexham, must have been one of the largest and most sumptuously49 equipped in England at that time. Hexham came, after nearly a century and a half, under the jurisdiction of York, and its church attained50 the dignity of a cathedral with right of sanctuary. The sanctuary extended for a mile in all directions—one boundary being in mid-stream. Discreditable stories are told of a certain Walter Biwell, chaplain to Bernard de Baliol, who made attacks on people and their property while crossing the river. Subsequently, and owing to these depredations51, the boundary was placed on the northern bank of the stream. After the destruction of the cathedral by the Danes (about the year 821) and until after the Norman Conquest, only a shattered fragment of the building remained. Poverty was for years the lot of the canons regular of St Augustine, or Black Canons as they were called.{21} In time, however, they acquired wealth, land, and many privileges, until at the close of the 13th century, Hexham was among the most important of the monastic houses in the Borderland.
The story of the surrender of Hexham to Henry VIII. is full of dramatic and romantic happenings. An appeal from Archbishop Lee to Mr Secretary Cromwell on the plea that the abbey served as a house of call and entertainment for north-bound travellers proved of no avail. Four commissioners52 were empowered to suppress the abbey, but before reaching Hexham they received tidings of the determination of the canons to garrison53 the abbey and to resist to the last. Two commissioners decided54 to remain behind while the two more venturous rode on to find the town full of people, many of them armed, the gates of the abbey shut, and the canons in warlike array standing on the steeple and on the leads of the church. From their point of vantage, the canons defied the commissioners to the death, but were advised by them to take counsel together. After consulting for some time in the abbey they once more refused to surrender, upon which the commissioners returned to Corbridge. The canons had a wily and unscrupulous adviser55 in John Heron, sometimes called Little John, a Border robber, who persuaded them to maintain their defiant56 position, hoping by this means to bring about a general rising in the northern counties and to profit in the consequent plunder57 and robbery. His infamous58 scheme was attended with success, and shortly afterwards the prior of Hexham and six of the canons were hanged at Tyburn, while the site of the abbey was granted to Sir Richard Carnaby, a devoted59 royalist, who died without an heir in 1843.
As recently as March 1907 some interesting excavations have been made at Hexham. The Reverend E. Sidney Savage60, Rector of Hexham, writes to The Times giving particulars of discoveries of{22} arch?ological interest made on the site chosen for a nave in the Hexham abbey church.
“Several lengths of enriched cornices have been found, with various ornaments61 of late Roman character, the forerunners62 and dictators of many of the ornamental63 details of a subsequent Saxon and Norman period. Two great arch stones are from a grand ornamental arch fully64 20 Roman feet across, and can hardly have come from a lesser65 structure than the entrance gate was into the town from the main road, such as Watling Street. The upper part of a well-finished altar, a stone hypocaust pillar, and a number of smaller stones with various ornaments are amongst the architectural vestiges66. A part of what was apparently67 a sculptured panel has a finely cut bust68 of a Roman Emperor, probably Severus; and a portion of a Legionary stone has the remains of two panels divided by pilasters with pediments. It is much shattered, but the sculpture is of the best class. The gem69 of the yield is another and important portion of the well-known and Imperial Inscription70, built into the covering of the north passage of the crypt.”
JARROW (Benedictine)
674, Ecgfrid King of Northumbria gives land to the Holy Abbot Benedict Biscop for the building of a religious House—679, Bede becomes a student of the Monastery—685, Benedict Biscop builds the first church—793, The Monastery burnt by the Danes—1069, After restoration again burnt down by William the Conqueror—1074, Monastery rebuilt—15—, Dissolved. Annual revenue, ￡25, 8s. 4d.
The history of Jarrow Abbey is intimately associated with the revered71 name of Bede, for here this wonderful writer and thinker spent his days and accomplished72 his life’s great work—a work for which his fellow-countrymen have reason to be grateful to this day. Born in 672, Bede was, at the youthful age of seven years, placed by Benedict Biscop in the care of the monks at Jarrow Abbey, where, with the exception of an occasional visit to Wearmouth, he spent all the{23} days of his useful life. His writings include commentaries on the Scriptures73, translations, biographies of his contemporaries, treatises74 on many learned subjects, and also poetry, whilst in ecclesiastical matters he is the most reliable authority of the time. One of his scholars has given the following account of the characteristic ending of Bede’s strenuous75 and devout76 life:—
“It was the eve of Ascension Day 735 that Bede in his last hours was translating the Gospel of St John, and some scribes were writing from his dictation. They reached the words ‘What are these among so many’ when Bede felt his end approaching. ‘Write quickly,’ he said, ‘I cannot tell how soon my Master may call me hence.’ All night he lay awake in thanksgiving, and when the festival dawned he repeated his request that they should accelerate their work. ‘Master, there remains one sentence.’ ‘Write quickly,’ said Bede. ‘It is finished, master,’ they soon replied. ‘Aye, it is finished,’ he echoed. ‘Now lift me up and place me opposite my holy place where I have been accustomed to pray.’ He was placed upon the floor of his cell, bade farewell to his companions, to whom he had previously77 given mementoes of his affection, and, having sung the doxology, peacefully breathed his last.”
“How beautiful your presence, how benign78,
Servants of God! who not a thought will share
With the vain world; who, outwardly as bare
As winter trees, yield no fallacious sign
That the firm soul is clothed with fruit divine!
Such priest, when service worthy79 of his care
Has called him forth to breath the common air,
Might seem a saintly image from its shrine80
Descended—happy are the eyes that meet
The apparition81, evil thoughts are stayed
At his approach, and low-backed necks entreat82
A benediction83 from his voice or hand;
Whence grace, through which the heart can understand;
And vows85, that bind86 the will in silence made.”
Primitive87 Saxon Clergy88 (Wordsworth).
{24}
Standing on a green hill near the river Slake89, the grey walls of Jarrow Abbey (now the Church of St Paul) contrast markedly with the general sense of everyday work conveyed by the active life of Shields, not far distant. Past and present, ancient and modern, are brought into close proximity90, suggesting to one that were it possible to infuse some of the contemplative and quiescent91 frame of mind of Bede and his scholars into the toilers of this progressive 20th century, less might be heard of brain fag and other attendant evils of the high pressure of modern life. Of the Abbey church, the tower and chancel alone remain and are now used as the parish church. In the vestry is a chair said to have belonged to the Venerable Bede. Many visitors (as visitors will) have chipped off pieces of the old oak, the tradition being that a splinter, if placed under a damsel’s pillow, would invoke92 pleasant dreams of the ever prospective93 husband.
Of the domestic part of the establishment, which was situated on the south side of the church, there still stand some walls and a gable end which may possibly have formed part of the refectory.
FINCHALE (Benedictine)
1100, Godricus de Finchale, a hermit94, spends his old age in devotion in a cell in this place—1196, Hugh, Bishop of Durham, founds and endows the Abbey—1536, Dissolved. Annual revenue, ￡122, 15s. 3d.
Engirt by trees and surrounded by wooded heights, this abbey on “Finches Haigh” (“low flat ground”) still retains a few old grey walls on the banks of the river Wear. Following the road from Durham, the “city on a hill,” one obtains the first view of the ruins from the west—where the long lane that leads from the high road dips towards the Priory. The church is of the Early English period, and until 1665 it{25} retained its original stone spire95. On each side of the nave are four piers96, alternately round and hexagonal, supporting the exquisitely moulded arches which were built up during the 14th century—John of Tickhill being prior at the time. At this period, too, the aisles98 of the church were completely blocked up and Decorated windows were inserted—the south aisle97 becoming the northern alley99 of the cloister39. These architectural alterations100, which spoiled the beauty of a church originally perfect in its proportions, were probably inspired by the constant dread101 of Scottish invasion to which the Border counties were so peculiarly liable. Two beautiful lancet-windows light the north transept in which is an eastern chantry—while in the south transept may be seen an altar to St Godricus the Hermit, erected102 in the year 1256. The east wall of the choir has fallen, but the south-east turret103 still holds itself aloft.
The site of Finchale Abbey has been identified by some with Pincanhale—the meeting-place of the synods of the Saxon clergy in the 8th and 9th centuries. Tradition records that even further back this spot was inhabited by men who were eventually forced to abandon the place owing to the number of venomous snakes which abounded104 there. In the time of Godricus, however, it was a forest, and to the finches, which among other birds may have found their home there, some credit for the name Finchale may possibly be given. The story of the peddler Godricus, of his repeated pilgrimages to the Holy Land, his determined and successful search for knowledge, and his sixty years of solitary105 meditation106 at Finchale, was written by the monk4 Reginald, who after constant attendance on the aged107 hermit during his last illness was placed in charge of the hermitage. During the thirty or forty years following the death of Godricus, his tomb at Finchale was much visited by pilgrims, attracted thither108 by the fame of his virtues109. The hospitality and resources of the monks would{26} have been sorely taxed during these years had it not been for the benefactions of one Henry Pudsey who granted all his belongings110 “To the Durham monks serving God and the Blessed Mary, and St Godric, at Finchale,” directing that the gifts should be applied111, firstly, in hospitality and alms-giving and for maintaining the service of God, etc., and secondly112, for the spiritual welfare of himself and of his kith and kin2.
The religious community at Finchale varied113 in number. Early in the 15th century the number was fixed114 at nine, four of whom with the prior were to live there permanently115 and relays of four others to be sent from the mother house at Durham. These visitors made a stay of three weeks, spending every alternate day in liberty and recreation, the remaining time being devoted to choir singing and other religious duties. The office of prior was in much repute, and served in more than one instance as a stepping-stone to promotion—Priors Strehall and de Insula attaining116 the Bishopric of Durham. The last prior, William Bennet, surrendered the priory in 1536, and his monks were cast adrift. He, however, was made Prebendary of the fourth stall in Durham Cathedral, and took to himself a wife “as soon as he was discharged from his vow84.”
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monastery
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| n.修道院，僧院，寺院 | |
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kin
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| n.家族，亲属，血缘关系；adj.亲属关系的，同类的 | |
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entirely
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| ad.全部地，完整地；完全地，彻底地 | |
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monk
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| n.和尚，僧侣，修道士 | |
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monks
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| n.修道士，僧侣( monk的名词复数 ) | |
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excavations
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| n.挖掘( excavation的名词复数 )；开凿；开凿的洞穴（或山路等）；（发掘出来的）古迹 | |
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mid
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| adj.中央的，中间的 | |
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oasis
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| n.（沙漠中的）绿洲，宜人的地方 | |
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remains
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| n.剩余物，残留物；遗体，遗迹 | |
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edifice
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| n.宏伟的建筑物(如宫殿，教室) | |
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standing
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| n.持续，地位；adj.永久的，不动的，直立的，不流动的 | |
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irresistible
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| adj.非常诱人的，无法拒绝的，无法抗拒的 | |
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utterly
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| adv.完全地，绝对地 | |
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conflagration
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| n.建筑物或森林大火 | |
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invaders
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| 入侵者，侵略者，侵入物( invader的名词复数 ) | |
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invader
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| n.侵略者，侵犯者，入侵者 | |
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determined
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| adj.坚定的；有决心的 | |
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reign
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| n.统治时期，统治，支配，盛行；v.占优势 | |
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reigned
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| vi.当政，统治（reign的过去式形式） | |
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supreme
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| adj.极度的，最重要的；至高的，最高的 | |
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laboriously
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| adv.艰苦地；费力地；辛勤地；（文体等）佶屈聱牙地 | |
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gale
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| n.大风，强风，一阵闹声（尤指笑声等） | |
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despoiled
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| v.掠夺，抢劫( despoil的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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desolate
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| adj.荒凉的，荒芜的；孤独的，凄凉的；v.使荒芜，使孤寂 | |
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mighty
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| adj.强有力的；巨大的 | |
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crumbled
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| （把…）弄碎， （使）碎成细屑( crumble的过去式和过去分词 )； 衰落； 坍塌； 损坏 | |
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vaults
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| n.拱顶( vault的名词复数 )；地下室；撑物跳高；墓穴 | |
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sanctuary
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| n.圣所，圣堂，寺庙；禁猎区，保护区 | |
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patronage
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| n.赞助，支援，援助；光顾，捧场 | |
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melancholy
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| n.忧郁，愁思；adj.令人感伤（沮丧）的，忧郁的 | |
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grandeur
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| n.伟大，崇高，宏伟，庄严，豪华 | |
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bishop
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| n.主教，（国际象棋）象 | |
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dedicated
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| adj.一心一意的；献身的；热诚的 | |
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nave
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| n.教堂的中部；本堂 | |
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choir
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| n.唱诗班，唱诗班的席位，合唱团，舞蹈团；v.合唱 | |
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picturesquely
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situated
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| adj.坐落在...的，处于某种境地的 | |
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warfare
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| n.战争(状态)；斗争；冲突 | |
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cloister
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| n.修道院；v.隐退，使与世隔绝 | |
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cloisters
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| n.（学院、修道院、教堂等建筑的）走廊( cloister的名词复数 )；回廊；修道院的生活；隐居v.隐退，使与世隔绝( cloister的第三人称单数 ) | |
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exquisitely
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| adv.精致地；强烈地；剧烈地；异常地 | |
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peculiar
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| adj.古怪的，异常的；特殊的，特有的 | |
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slab
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| n.平板，厚的切片；v.切成厚板，以平板盖上 | |
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depicted
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| 描绘，描画( depict的过去式和过去分词 )； 描述 | |
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jurisdiction
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| n.司法权，审判权，管辖权，控制权 | |
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benefactors
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| n.捐助者，施主( benefactor的名词复数 )；恩人 | |
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forth
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| adv.向前；向外，往外 | |
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piety
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| n.虔诚，虔敬 | |
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sumptuously
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| 奢侈地，豪华地 | |
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attained
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| （通常经过努力）实现( attain的过去式和过去分词 )； 达到； 获得； 达到（某年龄、水平、状况） | |
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depredations
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| n.劫掠，毁坏( depredation的名词复数 ) | |
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commissioners
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| n.专员( commissioner的名词复数 )；长官；委员；政府部门的长官 | |
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garrison
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| n.卫戍部队；驻地，卫戍区；vt.派(兵)驻防 | |
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decided
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| adj.决定了的，坚决的；明显的，明确的 | |
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adviser
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| n.劝告者，顾问 | |
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defiant
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| adj.无礼的，挑战的 | |
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plunder
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| vt.劫掠财物，掠夺；n.劫掠物，赃物；劫掠 | |
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infamous
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| adj.声名狼藉的，臭名昭著的，邪恶的 | |
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devoted
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| adj.忠诚的，忠实的，热心的，献身于...的 | |
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savage
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| adj.野蛮的；凶恶的，残暴的；n.未开化的人 | |
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61
ornaments
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| n.装饰( ornament的名词复数 )；点缀；装饰品；首饰v.装饰，点缀，美化( ornament的第三人称单数 ) | |
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62
forerunners
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| n.先驱( forerunner的名词复数 )；开路人；先兆；前兆 | |
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63
ornamental
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| adj.装饰的；作装饰用的；n.装饰品；观赏植物 | |
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64
fully
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| adv.完全地，全部地，彻底地；充分地 | |
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lesser
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| adj.次要的，较小的；adv.较小地，较少地 | |
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66
vestiges
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| 残余部分( vestige的名词复数 )； 遗迹； 痕迹； 毫不 | |
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apparently
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| adv.显然地；表面上，似乎 | |
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68
bust
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| vt.打破；vi.爆裂；n.半身像；胸部 | |
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69
gem
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| n.宝石，珠宝；受爱戴的人 [同]jewel | |
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70
inscription
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| n.（尤指石块上的）刻印文字，铭文，碑文 | |
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71
revered
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| v.崇敬，尊崇，敬畏( revere的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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72
accomplished
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| adj.有才艺的；有造诣的；达到了的 | |
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73
scriptures
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| 经文，圣典( scripture的名词复数 )； 经典 | |
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74
treatises
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| n.专题著作，专题论文，专著( treatise的名词复数 ) | |
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75
strenuous
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| adj.奋发的，使劲的；紧张的；热烈的，狂热的 | |
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76
devout
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| adj.虔诚的，虔敬的，衷心的 (n.devoutness) | |
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77
previously
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| adv.以前，先前（地） | |
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benign
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| adj.善良的，慈祥的；良性的，无危险的 | |
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worthy
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| adj.(of)值得的，配得上的；有价值的 | |
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80
shrine
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| n.圣地，神龛，庙；v.将...置于神龛内，把...奉为神圣 | |
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81
apparition
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| n.幽灵，神奇的现象 | |
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82
entreat
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| v.恳求，恳请 | |
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83
benediction
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| n.祝福；恩赐 | |
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84
vow
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| n.誓(言)，誓约；v.起誓，立誓 | |
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85
vows
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| 誓言( vow的名词复数 )； 郑重宣布，许愿 | |
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86
bind
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| vt.捆，包扎；装订；约束；使凝固；vi.变硬 | |
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87
primitive
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| adj.原始的；简单的；n.原(始)人，原始事物 | |
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88
clergy
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| n.[总称]牧师，神职人员 | |
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89
slake
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| v.解渴，使平息 | |
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90
proximity
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| n.接近，邻近 | |
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quiescent
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| adj.静止的，不活动的，寂静的 | |
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92
invoke
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| v.求助于(神、法律)；恳求，乞求 | |
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93
prospective
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| adj.预期的，未来的，前瞻性的 | |
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94
hermit
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| n.隐士，修道者；隐居 | |
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95
spire
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| n.(教堂)尖顶，尖塔，高点 | |
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96
piers
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| n.水上平台( pier的名词复数 )；（常设有娱乐场所的）突堤；柱子；墙墩 | |
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aisle
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| n.（教堂、教室、戏院等里的）过道，通道 | |
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98
aisles
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| n. (席位间的)通道, 侧廊 | |
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99
alley
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| n.小巷，胡同；小径，小路 | |
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100
alterations
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| n.改动( alteration的名词复数 )；更改；变化；改变 | |
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101
dread
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| vt.担忧，忧虑；惧怕，不敢；n.担忧，畏惧 | |
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102
ERECTED
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| adj. 直立的，竖立的，笔直的 vt. 使 ... 直立，建立 | |
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103
turret
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| n.塔楼，角塔 | |
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104
abounded
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| v.大量存在，充满，富于( abound的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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105
solitary
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| adj.孤独的，独立的，荒凉的；n.隐士 | |
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106
meditation
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| n.熟虑，（尤指宗教的）默想，沉思，（pl.）冥想录 | |
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107
aged
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| adj.年老的，陈年的 | |
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108
thither
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| adv.向那里；adj.在那边的，对岸的 | |
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109
virtues
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| 美德( virtue的名词复数 )； 德行； 优点； 长处 | |
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110
belongings
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| n.私人物品，私人财物 | |
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111
applied
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| adj.应用的；v.应用，适用 | |
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112
secondly
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| adv.第二，其次 | |
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113
varied
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| adj.多样的，多变化的 | |
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114
fixed
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| adj.固定的，不变的，准备好的；(计算机)固定的 | |
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115
permanently
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| adv.永恒地，永久地，固定不变地 | |
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116
attaining
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| （通常经过努力）实现( attain的现在分词 )； 达到； 获得； 达到（某年龄、水平、状况） | |
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