LINCLUDEN: SWEETHEART: PAISLEY: DUNFERMLINE
LINCLUDEN (Benedictine Nuns)
Founded in the 12th century by Uchtred, son of Fergus, Lord of Galloway, for Benedictine nuns—Converted about two centuries later into a collegiate church for canons by Archibald, Earl of Douglas.
ANOTHER abbey, situated2 quite near Sweetheart, is Lincluden, at one time a favourite haunt of Burns, and beautifully described by him in his lines, “An evening view of the ruins of Lincluden.” The ruins, consisting of the provost’s house, the chancel and part of the south wall of the church, afford indications only of the former splendour of the pile. Originally a nunnery, Archibald of Douglas changed the establishment into a college for a provost and twelve canons. Archibald married the daughter of Robert III. This lady’s grave may be seen in the chancel, and though mutilated, still bears evidence of considerable elegance3. It is in the form of an arch beautifully sculptured, with the heart of Douglas guarded by three chalices4 crosswise and a star near each in the centre.
In the choir5 also are several sedilia with pointed6 foliated arches, and over the sacristry door on the south side a colossal7 foliated trefoil. Though these features may be somewhat out of proportion to the size of the choir, they suggest larger dimensions, and if they had had more elevation8 and space around{194} would have been seen to greater advantage. Besides the south transept only a tower and some scanty9 portions of the nave10 remain of this minster that once measured 216 feet long by 16? feet broad.
As in the case of Sweetheart Abbey, there is little of historical or legendary11 interest associated with Lincluden—its popularity with the public being due to its beautiful and sheltered situation and to its associations with Robert Burns.
SWEETHEART (Cistercian)
1275, Founded by Lady Devergoil.
Sweetheart Abbey, a beautiful structure, stands a little westward12 of the mouth of the Nith in a lovely and sheltered nook at the base of Criffel, the most southerly mountain in Scotland. Only the church, a fine cruciform building with a central saddleback tower of 92 feet, and part of the chapter-house are now left. In the aisle1 of the south transept (the only part of the abbey that is roofed) is a groined wall with shields for bosses, on one of which are the abbey arms. A beautiful rose window at the east end of the church is by far the most interesting remaining feature of the abbey. The church, as it was after its foundation, does not seem to have been of much importance either ecclesiastically or politically and has therefore scarcely any history attached to its name. The abbey was founded in 1275 by Lady Devergoil, wife of John Baliol and mother of the Scottish king of that name, who also built the bridge and monastery14 at Dumfries. It was called at first New Abbey in contradistinction to the old abbey at Dundrennan. Its name, however, was changed later to Sweetheart because of a story told about its foundress and her husband. The Lady Devergoil was supposed to have{195} had her husband’s heart embalmed15 and enclosed in an ivory box, and at the lady’s death this box was placed inside her tomb. Over the tomb may be seen this epitaph in Latin—
“In Dever-gill a sibil sage16 doth lie as
Mary contemplative, as Martha pious17,
To her, O deign18 High King! best to impart
Whom this stone covers with her husband’s heart.”
The ruins of the abbey were repaired in 1852 by means of a subscription19 raised among the gentry20 of the district, and augmented21 by a grant from Parliament.
PAISLEY (Mitred Cluniac)
1164, Founded as a Priory by Walter Fitzalan—Dedicated to SS. James, Mirin and Milburga—1219, raised to the rank of an Abbey—1307, Burned by the English—1561, Pillaged22 at the Reformation.
The largest and most important of Scottish abbeys is to be found near the greatest manufacturing centre of the country. Of Paisley Abbey, a house of great historical interest and very large and beautiful in its proportions, the only remains23 now standing24 are the nave and transept of the church and the adjoining Lady chapel25. The transept is an interesting ruin, but the nave is entire and is still used as the church of the abbey parish, after having been restored at great price. The interior is of magnificent altitude, exhibiting three tiers of arches, partly pointed and partly semicircular, with cinque foiled arches formed within them. Many quaint26 images and inscriptions27 are to be seen on its walls, one of which, relating to George Schaw, the abbot, who in 1485 built a large wall to enclose the buildings and the land belonging to them—{196}
“Then call it ye Abbot Georg of Schawe,
Ablone yio abbaye qart mak yis way,
A thousand four hundred yheyr
Auchty and fyve the date but veir
(Pray for his salvation28)
That made yis noble foundacion.”
The line in brackets is not quite intelligible29 but it is supposed to be “Pray for his salvation.”
The great western door, which is pointed and deeply recessed30, with rich mouldings, is surmounted31 by three windows with superb tracery. The Lady chapel to the south is interesting on account of its echoes, which, owing to recent alterations32, are not so pronounced as formerly33. In this part of the chapel, generally called the sounding aisle, is the tomb of Margory Bruce, wife of Robert Bruce, and mother of the founder34 of the abbey. The cloisters35, 68 feet square, were also on the south side of the abbey, but the domestic buildings have almost disappeared. The abbey, founded by Walter, the first of the Stuarts, in 1164, was tenanted by a colony of Cluniac monks36 from Shropshire. At that time the area of the abbey grounds was about one mile, the space unoccupied by the church and other buildings being used as orchard37 and park land.
DUNFERMLINE (Mitred Benedictine)
1072, Founded by Malcolm Canmore on site of a former Culdee monastery—1124, Remodelled38 as a Benedictine house and monks of that order placed there by David I.—1250, The choir, central tower, transept and Lady chapel added to the nave—Restored in the 14th century after partial destruction by Edward I.—1560, Plundered39 by Presbyterian mob; the nave only escapes destruction—1818-21, Present church built.
In the case of Dunfermline, the Westminster Abbey of Scotland, the most ancient, and consequently the most interesting part of the building has survived the{197} onward40 tread of many centuries, and though now only in the form of a vestibule to the modern church, was once the nave of the minster founded here in the 11th century. Its architectural features somewhat resemble those of Durham and Lindisfarne with their stern Norman characteristics. It is of eight bays with massive pillars (20 feet high by 13 feet 6 inches in circumference), some of which are spirally channelled, while two have chevron41 mouldings, it has also a very rich Norman north door, some Early English windows in the aisles42, and a triforium and clerestory composed of round headed arches. The nave was the first piece of Norman work in Scotland, and from the 16th to the 19th century was used as the parish church of the district. The sound of an organ was heard for the first time in Scotland within its walls. The west front (Decorated) has a fine recessed portal with a four light window with Geometrical tracery above. The western towers and north west porch are also of the Decorated period, while the presbytery is entirely43 Early English work. An interesting feature of the newly erected44 modern Gothic church is the balustrade on the tower which covers the site of Bruce’s grave (discovered during the recent rebuilding of the church), and has terminals in shape of letters reading “King Robert the Bruce,” “a modern apotheosis45 of the murderer of Comyn by men who cannot tolerate the Cross, the symbol of salvation.” Of the other buildings, only the south wall and west gable of the refectory, the gate-way with the “pended” tower, and some portions of the abbot’s lodge46 remain. Beneath the refectory are twenty-six cells.
The ancient mitred abbey measured 276 feet by 66 feet, was cruciform and of mixed architectural periods. For many centuries Dunfermline was the frequent residence of Scottish monarchs47, and for more than two centuries the kings were buried within its walls; notably48 the royal Founder, King Edgar, Alexander I., Alexander III., David I. and Malcolm IV. The{198} monks had great influence in the neighbourhood and the monastery was richly endowed.
Dunfermline, the “City of Fife,” stands on a long swelling49 ridge13 above the Forth50, and, viewed from the south with its background of Cleish hills, presents a most striking aspect.
The End
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1 aisle | |
n.(教堂、教室、戏院等里的)过道,通道 | |
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2 situated | |
adj.坐落在...的,处于某种境地的 | |
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3 elegance | |
n.优雅;优美,雅致;精致,巧妙 | |
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4 chalices | |
n.高脚酒杯( chalice的名词复数 );圣餐杯;金杯毒酒;看似诱人实则令人讨厌的事物 | |
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5 choir | |
n.唱诗班,唱诗班的席位,合唱团,舞蹈团;v.合唱 | |
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6 pointed | |
adj.尖的,直截了当的 | |
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7 colossal | |
adj.异常的,庞大的 | |
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8 elevation | |
n.高度;海拔;高地;上升;提高 | |
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9 scanty | |
adj.缺乏的,仅有的,节省的,狭小的,不够的 | |
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10 nave | |
n.教堂的中部;本堂 | |
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11 legendary | |
adj.传奇(中)的,闻名遐迩的;n.传奇(文学) | |
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12 westward | |
n.西方,西部;adj.西方的,向西的;adv.向西 | |
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13 ridge | |
n.山脊;鼻梁;分水岭 | |
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14 monastery | |
n.修道院,僧院,寺院 | |
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15 embalmed | |
adj.用防腐药物保存(尸体)的v.保存(尸体)不腐( embalm的过去式和过去分词 );使不被遗忘;使充满香气 | |
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16 sage | |
n.圣人,哲人;adj.贤明的,明智的 | |
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17 pious | |
adj.虔诚的;道貌岸然的 | |
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18 deign | |
v. 屈尊, 惠允 ( 做某事) | |
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19 subscription | |
n.预订,预订费,亲笔签名,调配法,下标(处方) | |
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20 gentry | |
n.绅士阶级,上层阶级 | |
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21 Augmented | |
adj.增音的 动词augment的过去式和过去分词形式 | |
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22 pillaged | |
v.抢劫,掠夺( pillage的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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23 remains | |
n.剩余物,残留物;遗体,遗迹 | |
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24 standing | |
n.持续,地位;adj.永久的,不动的,直立的,不流动的 | |
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25 chapel | |
n.小教堂,殡仪馆 | |
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26 quaint | |
adj.古雅的,离奇有趣的,奇怪的 | |
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27 inscriptions | |
(作者)题词( inscription的名词复数 ); 献词; 碑文; 证劵持有人的登记 | |
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28 salvation | |
n.(尤指基督)救世,超度,拯救,解困 | |
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29 intelligible | |
adj.可理解的,明白易懂的,清楚的 | |
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30 recessed | |
v.把某物放在墙壁的凹处( recess的过去式和过去分词 );将(墙)做成凹形,在(墙)上做壁龛;休息,休会,休庭 | |
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31 surmounted | |
战胜( surmount的过去式和过去分词 ); 克服(困难); 居于…之上; 在…顶上 | |
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32 alterations | |
n.改动( alteration的名词复数 );更改;变化;改变 | |
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33 formerly | |
adv.从前,以前 | |
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34 Founder | |
n.创始者,缔造者 | |
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35 cloisters | |
n.(学院、修道院、教堂等建筑的)走廊( cloister的名词复数 );回廊;修道院的生活;隐居v.隐退,使与世隔绝( cloister的第三人称单数 ) | |
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36 monks | |
n.修道士,僧侣( monk的名词复数 ) | |
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37 orchard | |
n.果园,果园里的全部果树,(美俚)棒球场 | |
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38 remodelled | |
v.改变…的结构[形状]( remodel的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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39 plundered | |
掠夺,抢劫( plunder的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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40 onward | |
adj.向前的,前进的;adv.向前,前进,在先 | |
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41 chevron | |
n.V形臂章;V形图案 | |
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42 aisles | |
n. (席位间的)通道, 侧廊 | |
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43 entirely | |
ad.全部地,完整地;完全地,彻底地 | |
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44 ERECTED | |
adj. 直立的,竖立的,笔直的 vt. 使 ... 直立,建立 | |
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45 apotheosis | |
n.神圣之理想;美化;颂扬 | |
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46 lodge | |
v.临时住宿,寄宿,寄存,容纳;n.传达室,小旅馆 | |
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47 monarchs | |
君主,帝王( monarch的名词复数 ) | |
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48 notably | |
adv.值得注意地,显著地,尤其地,特别地 | |
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49 swelling | |
n.肿胀 | |
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50 forth | |
adv.向前;向外,往外 | |
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