MELROSE: KELSO: JEDBURGH
MELROSE (Cistercian)
635, Monastery1 founded—839, Destroyed by Kenneth MacAlpine—1136, Re-founded by David I.—1322, Stormed by 300 men sent by Edward II.—The prior slain—Part of the building set on fire by Richard II.—1322-1505, The abbey slowly rebuilt—1544, Sir B. Layton, Sir R. Eure, and the Earl of Hertford injure this religious house—1545, The abbey again sacked and burnt by these men—1618, Nave2 rudely vaulted3 afresh—1649, Attacked by a Presbyterian mob—1822, Restored by Duke of Buccleuch.
BY moonlight or starless dark, by dusk or full daylight, Melrose Abbey is a thing of beauty and romance. Built on the site of an ancient Columban monastery, the abbey, colonised by monks4 from Lindisfarne, flourished until the Reformers, instigated5 by John Knox, demolished6 it with many other religious houses.
The remains7 of this most beautiful structure of the Scottish Middle Ages are considerable, and demonstrate the former architectural beauties of the abbey. They consist of parts of the church and cloister8. Of the former three bays of the nave, eight small chapels10, with elegant traceried windows to the south of the south aisle11, a portion of the central tower, and the transepts of the choir12 remain. Many architectural styles are shown, and a curious mingling13 of the old with later Decorated work is a noticeable feature. The arches which divide the nave from its aisles14 are remarkably15 beautiful and many excellent windows light the church. Those in the nave are Perpendicular16, while the trefoiled four-light windows in the choir and{186} presbytery are Decorated or Early Perpendicular. Some of the vaulting17 still remains in the south aisle and also above the site of the high altar. This edifice18 was originally 215 feet long by 116 across the transepts. Joanna, wife of Alexander II.; the “wondrous Michael Scott”; and Sir David Brewster are buried here, and the heart of the hero, Robert Bruce, is interred19 beneath the site of the high altar. The cloister, containing some wonderfully rich carving20 of exquisite21 workmanship, was placed on the north side of the nave, and beyond, the garden extended to the river bank, a quarter of a mile distant.
Of the Anglo Saxon monastery founded in Melrose in 635, comparatively little is known. St Cuthbert, then a dreamy shepherd boy, imagined he saw a vision of angels carrying a soul to heaven, and hearing subsequently that Aidan, Bishop22 of Lindisfarne, had died that same night, was convinced that he had been privileged to see his saintly soul. Wishing to join a religious community St Cuthbert went to the monastic settlement at Melrose, then consisting only of a few log huts, joined the brotherhood23 there (A.D. 651), and in course of time became its prior. Bede says—
“Cuthbert’s skill in speaking was so great, his power of persuasion24 so vast, and the light of his countenance25 so angelic that no one in his presence concealed26 from him the secrets of his soul: all confessed their misdeeds, because they thought that what they had done could not escape his prescience, and atoned27 for them by such penance28 as he enjoined29.”
When the mother abbey of Lindisfarne required a new prior, Cuthbert was appointed, and after fulfilling his religious duties here for twelve years retired30 to an island to live the life of a recluse31. After eight years had elapsed he became Bishop of Lindisfarne, where at the end of three years’ work he was buried.{187} His shroud32 was made by the abbess of Tynemouth, and his tomb visited for many years by hundreds of pilgrims. When in 875 Lindisfarne was attacked by the Danes the monks fled for safety, carrying with them the relics34 of St Cuthbert, and, after visiting many places, in the hope of escaping the enemy, placed them finally in the woods of Durham. The humble35 church, which in course of time was built there to guard the sacred remains, preceded the present magnificent cathedral of Durham “half church of God, half citadel36, ‘gainst the Scots.” In the meantime the settlement of Melrose had prospered37, but in 839 was burnt down by Kenneth MacAlpine and remained a desolate38 ruin for nearly two centuries. Good King David I. “that sair saunt for the crown,” then founded the abbey, in which for several centuries the Cistercian monks laboured—cultivating the land and instituting law and order amongst the country folk of the district.
Dire39 as was the fate of the English abbeys, that of the Scottish religious houses was immeasurably more bitter. Robbed, ruined, sacked and burned, the once mighty40 edifices41 have fallen the prey42 to thrifty43 citizens, who, careful of their own future, assigned to themselves various portions of the land and buildings, with the result that in close proximity44 to many of these buildings, modern and inartistic huts, workshops and inns may be seen. Melrose is particularly unfortunate in these vandalisms. Incredible as it may seem, the Abbey Hotel actually encroaches upon the hallowed nave, and a great amount of the space occupied by the former grounds and buildings is now disfigured by cheap dwellings45 and crowded gardens. The local presbytery of 1618 deserve even more contumely for their hideous46 disfigurement of the three bays of the nave that still remained, which were rebuilt, and walled in in most ruthless fashion.
The wonderful charm of Melrose Abbey as a building{188} is not its only feature. The remains lie here of King Alexander II. and his spouse47; Douglases without number; and many other men and women who have loomed48 largely in the history of our island. A few of the numerous statues that adorned49 the walls still remain, although many were destroyed by the Presbyterians. A certain zealot climbed in 1649 to the buttress50 pinnacle51 to shatter the statue of our Lady with the Holy Child, upon which the first fragment split off, struck, and broke his arm. Since then the image has been left in peace. Strangely prophetic words are uttered in the inscriptions52 written in abbreviated53 Latin words on scrolls54 borne by monks in the south transept, “He suffered because He Himself willed it” and “When comes Jesus the Mediator55, darkness will cease.”
KELSO (Benedictine)
1126, Founded by David I., and colonised by Benedictine monks from Selkirk (a Tironensian abbey founded by David I. seven years previously)—The church suffers by fire during the wars between Bruce and Baliol—1523, The Lady chapel9, the abbot’s house, and the dormitory demolished by Lord Dacre—1545, Stormed by the English under Lord Hertford, Sir G. Bowes, etc.—1547, Attacked by Protector Somerset—1560, Monks expelled by a body of fanatical Presbyterians—1649, The transept roofed in—1771, No longer used as place of worship.
“Bosomed in woods where mighty rivers run,
Kelso’s fair vale expands before the sun;
Its rising downs in vernal beauty swell56
And fringed with hazel woods, with flowery dell,
Green spangled plains to dimpling lawns succeed,
And Tempe rises on the banks of Tweed:
Blue o’er the river Kelso’s shadow lies
And copse-clad aisles amid the waters rise.”
Standing57 on the bridge of five arches which spans the Tweed at Kelso, a magnificent view can be gained of this picturesque58 town on the northern bank, with the ruins of its abbey beautifully situated59 in a well-wooded valley; also of the fast decaying walls of Roxburgh castle on the south bank, once the stronghold of that old town and demolished in 1460; of Fleurs Palace; the heights of Eildon and Mellerstain, and the confluence60 of the Tweed and Teviot. Kelso has risen in importance since the destruction of its neighbouring town, and has frequently suffered from pillage61 and fire during the English invasions. In 1715, the Pretender was proclaimed as King James VIII. by the forces assembled here.
The ruined abbey church, a somewhat heavy, massive-looking structure, indicative of strength and of almost baronial character, still holds part of its great central tower aloft, and is an excellent example of Norman work, both Early and Transitional. The church alone survives the many violent attacks made upon the abbey in the 16th century, and was originally cruciform, having a nave of only two bays, north and south transepts of two bays, a choir of three bays with aisles, and a magnificent central tower of two stories. Of this characteristic Norman building only a shattered western front, one bay of the nave, two bays of the choir, the west and south sides of the tower, and both transepts remain. The faces of the latter resemble the west front, which was flanked by pilaster buttresses62, and crowned with octagonal turrets63. Though chiefly of unadorned simplicity64, the church contains in some places rich mouldings, including some of foliage65 design, and possesses a lightness of character in parts, showing the coming influence of Early English architectural art.
The siege and capture of the abbey in 1545 by the Earl of Hertford is a fine rousing story of Border warfare66. After repulsing67 attack after attack, the defenders68 made a final stand in the church itself, but were finally overpowered by weight of numbers, and slaughtered69, with the exception of two or three monks, who retreated to the topmost platform of the tower,{190} which they kept all night. These doughty70 “men of peace” somehow or other managed to escape next day. This of course settled finally the fate of the abbey, and from that day to this, it has been put almost exclusively to a series of degrading purposes—from a barracks to a stable. Nevertheless, Kelso is unique and priceless as an example of a castellated Border church as it was in the 12th century.
JEDBURGH (Augustine Canons)
1118-47, Founded by David I.—1286, The marriage of Alexander III. celebrated71 in the abbey—1296, Church fired and unroofed by Sir R. Hastings, and Edward I. disperses72 the monks among the northern English monasteries—They subsequently return to Jedburgh—1524-44, Attacked by Lord Surrey and Lord Eure—1559, A battle takes place between the French allies of the Scotch73 and the Spanish mercenaries of England which reduces the buildings to a ruinous state.
Jedburgh, one of the most noted74 of old Border towns, is now the chief town of Roxburghshire. It lies on the banks of Jed Water and enjoys a sheltered situation amidst the wooded hills and rocky eminences75 which enclose this vale, the Scottish Arcadia, on every side. After the union of the two kingdoms, Jedburgh became the centre of an extensive contraband76 trade, which was however eventually checked by the English excise77. The picturesque market town once possessed78 a stately castle and abbey, but though the former building (of which nothing remains) has been replaced by a massive gaol79, known as the Castle of Jedburgh, only the church is left of the latter most beautiful fabric80. This building is fortunately complete, with the exception of the south transept and the greater portion of the choir.
Of grand proportions, yet of severe simplicity, the church displays some fine decoration in its flowered capitals and beautiful mouldings. Portions of the choir and tower are evidently Early Norman work, while later styles are seen in the great nave of nine bays, composed of a combination of Transitional Norman and English Gothic, and again in the unspoiled north transept of Decorated character. The nave is 130 feet in length, having above the triforium a clerestory consisting of a magnificent arcade81 of lancets. Two doorways82 to the west and south are excellent examples of Norman work, but the former, with its deep carvings83 of the most delicate workmanship, is the better specimen84. The arches of the tower (86 feet high) are richly clustered and chevroned at the edges; indeed, so exquisitely85 wrought86 and beautiful are some of the decorative87 mouldings of the church, that the work is attributed by many to an Italian artist. The north transept is aisleless, and possesses a large window of four lights filled with geometrical tracery.
Jedburgh was another of the many holy institutions founded by David I. of Scotland, although, technically88 speaking, it owed its existence to Lord Lauderdale, then Constable89 of Scotland. King David, however, was doubtless the moving spirit in the project. Jedburgh was a priory at first, but in 1147 it was raised to the dignity of an abbey with Osbert as first abbot. From this date henceforth the abbots of Jedburgh held high places in the kingdom. Unfortunately for the abbey, and still more so for the town, Jedburgh lay right in the track of every army crossing the Border from the other side, and was therefore sacked and burnt again and again by the English. In 1296, Sir Richard Hastings was the ravager90; in 1464, the Earl of Warwick; in 1524, the Earl of Surrey; and last of all, Lord Eure in 1544, who, acting91 for the Earl of Hertford, did his disgraceful work all too well. The commendator at the time, one John Hume, restored the burned abbey to a certain extent, but during the reign92 of the Presbyterians the building fell steadily93 into decay. The story of the abbey in the last century{192} is one of bickerings and lawsuits94, until in 1875 the Marquis of Lothian, sickened at the sight of the degradation95 of this great relic33, built a new church, since when the abbey church has not been used for public worship. Jedburgh Abbey has fallen on gentle days, and the ruins stand now dignified96, solemn, self-respecting and secure, safe in the honourable97 custody98 of the Marquises of Lothian.
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monastery
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| n.修道院，僧院，寺院 | |
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nave
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| n.教堂的中部；本堂 | |
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vaulted
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| adj.拱状的 | |
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monks
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| n.修道士，僧侣( monk的名词复数 ) | |
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instigated
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| v.使（某事物）开始或发生，鼓动( instigate的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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demolished
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| v.摧毁( demolish的过去式和过去分词 )；推翻；拆毁（尤指大建筑物）；吃光 | |
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remains
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| n.剩余物，残留物；遗体，遗迹 | |
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cloister
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| n.修道院；v.隐退，使与世隔绝 | |
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chapel
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| n.小教堂，殡仪馆 | |
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chapels
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| n.小教堂， （医院、监狱等的）附属礼拜堂( chapel的名词复数 )；（在小教堂和附属礼拜堂举行的）礼拜仪式 | |
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aisle
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| n.（教堂、教室、戏院等里的）过道，通道 | |
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choir
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| n.唱诗班，唱诗班的席位，合唱团，舞蹈团；v.合唱 | |
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mingling
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| adj.混合的 | |
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aisles
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| n. (席位间的)通道, 侧廊 | |
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remarkably
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| ad.不同寻常地，相当地 | |
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perpendicular
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| adj.垂直的，直立的；n.垂直线，垂直的位置 | |
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vaulting
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| n.（天花板或屋顶的）拱形结构 | |
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edifice
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| n.宏伟的建筑物(如宫殿，教室) | |
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interred
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| v.埋，葬( inter的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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carving
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| n.雕刻品，雕花 | |
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exquisite
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| adj.精美的；敏锐的；剧烈的，感觉强烈的 | |
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bishop
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| n.主教，（国际象棋）象 | |
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brotherhood
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| n.兄弟般的关系，手中情谊 | |
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24
persuasion
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| n.劝说；说服；持有某种信仰的宗派 | |
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countenance
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| n.脸色，面容；面部表情；vt.支持，赞同 | |
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concealed
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| a.隐藏的，隐蔽的 | |
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atoned
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| v.补偿，赎（罪）( atone的过去式和过去分词 )；补偿，弥补，赎回 | |
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penance
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| n.（赎罪的）惩罪 | |
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enjoined
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| v.命令( enjoin的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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retired
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| adj.隐退的，退休的，退役的 | |
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recluse
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| n.隐居者 | |
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shroud
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| n.裹尸布，寿衣；罩，幕；vt.覆盖，隐藏 | |
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relic
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| n.神圣的遗物，遗迹，纪念物 | |
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relics
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| [pl.］n.遗物，遗迹，遗产；遗体，尸骸 | |
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humble
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| adj.谦卑的，恭顺的；地位低下的；v.降低，贬低 | |
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citadel
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| n.城堡；堡垒；避难所 | |
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prospered
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| 成功，兴旺( prosper的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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desolate
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| adj.荒凉的，荒芜的；孤独的，凄凉的；v.使荒芜，使孤寂 | |
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dire
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| adj.可怕的，悲惨的，阴惨的，极端的 | |
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mighty
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| adj.强有力的；巨大的 | |
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edifices
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| n.大建筑物( edifice的名词复数 ) | |
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42
prey
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| n.被掠食者，牺牲者，掠食；v.捕食，掠夺，折磨 | |
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thrifty
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| adj.节俭的；兴旺的；健壮的 | |
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proximity
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| n.接近，邻近 | |
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dwellings
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| n.住处，处所( dwelling的名词复数 ) | |
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hideous
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| adj.丑陋的，可憎的，可怕的，恐怖的 | |
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spouse
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| n.配偶(指夫或妻) | |
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loomed
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| v.隐约出现，阴森地逼近( loom的过去式和过去分词 )；隐约出现，阴森地逼近 | |
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adorned
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| [计]被修饰的 | |
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buttress
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| n.支撑物；v.支持 | |
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pinnacle
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| n.尖塔，尖顶，山峰；(喻)顶峰 | |
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inscriptions
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| （作者）题词( inscription的名词复数 )； 献词； 碑文； 证劵持有人的登记 | |
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abbreviated
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| adj. 简短的，省略的 动词abbreviate的过去式和过去分词 | |
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scrolls
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| n.（常用于录写正式文件的）纸卷( scroll的名词复数 )；卷轴；涡卷形（装饰）；卷形花纹v.（电脑屏幕上）从上到下移动（资料等），卷页( scroll的第三人称单数 )；（似卷轴般）卷起；（像展开卷轴般地）将文字显示于屏幕 | |
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mediator
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| n.调解人，中介人 | |
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swell
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| vi.膨胀，肿胀；增长，增强 | |
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standing
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| n.持续，地位；adj.永久的，不动的，直立的，不流动的 | |
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picturesque
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| adj.美丽如画的，（语言）生动的，绘声绘色的 | |
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situated
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| adj.坐落在...的，处于某种境地的 | |
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confluence
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| n.汇合，聚集 | |
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pillage
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| v.抢劫；掠夺；n.抢劫，掠夺；掠夺物 | |
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buttresses
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| n.扶壁，扶垛( buttress的名词复数 )v.用扶壁支撑，加固( buttress的第三人称单数 ) | |
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turrets
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| （六角）转台( turret的名词复数 )； （战舰和坦克等上的）转动炮塔； （摄影机等上的）镜头转台； （旧时攻城用的）塔车 | |
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simplicity
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| n.简单，简易；朴素；直率，单纯 | |
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foliage
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| n.叶子，树叶，簇叶 | |
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warfare
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| n.战争(状态)；斗争；冲突 | |
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repulsing
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| v.击退( repulse的现在分词 )；驳斥；拒绝 | |
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defenders
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| n.防御者( defender的名词复数 )；守卫者；保护者；辩护者 | |
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slaughtered
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| v.屠杀，杀戮，屠宰( slaughter的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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doughty
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| adj.勇猛的，坚强的 | |
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celebrated
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| adj.有名的，声誉卓著的 | |
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disperses
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| v.（使）分散( disperse的第三人称单数 )；疏散；驱散；散布 | |
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scotch
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| n.伤口，刻痕；苏格兰威士忌酒；v.粉碎，消灭，阻止；adj.苏格兰(人)的 | |
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noted
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| adj.著名的，知名的 | |
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eminences
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| 卓越( eminence的名词复数 )； 著名； 高地； 山丘 | |
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76
contraband
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| n.违禁品，走私品 | |
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77
excise
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| n.(国产)货物税；vt.切除，删去 | |
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78
possessed
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| adj.疯狂的；拥有的，占有的 | |
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gaol
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| n.(jail)监狱；(不加冠词)监禁；vt.使…坐牢 | |
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fabric
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| n.织物，织品，布；构造，结构，组织 | |
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81
arcade
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| n.拱廊；(一侧或两侧有商店的)通道 | |
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doorways
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| n.门口，门道( doorway的名词复数 ) | |
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83
carvings
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| n.雕刻( carving的名词复数 )；雕刻术；雕刻品；雕刻物 | |
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specimen
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| n.样本，标本 | |
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exquisitely
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| adv.精致地；强烈地；剧烈地；异常地 | |
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86
wrought
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| v.引起；以…原料制作；运转；adj.制造的 | |
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decorative
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| adj.装饰的，可作装饰的 | |
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technically
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| adv.专门地，技术上地 | |
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89
constable
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| n.(英国)警察，警官 | |
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ravager
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| 破坏者 | |
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acting
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| n.演戏，行为，假装；adj.代理的，临时的，演出用的 | |
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reign
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| n.统治时期，统治，支配，盛行；v.占优势 | |
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steadily
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| adv.稳定地；不变地；持续地 | |
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94
lawsuits
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| n.诉讼( lawsuit的名词复数 ) | |
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95
degradation
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| n.降级；低落；退化；陵削；降解；衰变 | |
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dignified
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| a.可敬的，高贵的 | |
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honourable
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| adj.可敬的；荣誉的，光荣的 | |
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custody
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| n.监护，照看，羁押，拘留 | |
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