Fortunately he had not gone far on the homeward track when this news reached him, and there was no lack of hospitality. He was making a circuit round about Loanda to visit some of the more noted14 Portuguese15 settlements and estates, always with an eye to the better cultivation16 of the country and the interest of inland trade. The re-writing of his papers involved long and tedious delay, and there was more trouble through fever among his men. The year of 1855 dawned before he left a hospitable17 Portuguese home, and struck out{88} along the old trail. It is worth while to remember here that whereas the expedition travelled from Linyanti to Loanda in six and a half months, it took twice that time to return. It was September, 1855, before they saw Linyanti again.
The homeward journey was not devoid18 of incident and excitement. The passage through the Chiboque territory was once again troublesome. Just when Livingstone was most anxious to be himself, he fell a victim to rheumatic fever. For eight days he lay in his tent, tossing and groaning19 with pain; and it was twenty days before he began to recover, and the old ambition to be on the march came back to him. His men objected, for he was too weak to move; and at the physical crisis a quarrel broke out between his men and some of the Chiboques. A blow was struck, for which ample compensation was paid; but with the leader on his back the importunities of the tribesmen increased, and matters became threatening. When a forward move was made, an organised attack on the baggage took place,{89} and shots were even fired, though nobody was hurt. It was then that Livingstone snatched up his six-barrelled revolver and “staggered along the path” till most opportunely20 he encountered the hostile chief. “The sight of the six barrels gaping21 into his stomach and my own ghastly visage looking daggers22 at his face seemed to produce an instant revolution in his martial23 feelings.” He suddenly became the most peaceable man in all Africa, and protested his goodwill24. Livingstone advised a practical illustration of this, and bade him go home. The Chief explained that he would do so, only he was afraid of being shot in the back! “If I wanted to kill you,” rejoined Livingstone, “I could shoot you in the face as well.” One of his men, afraid for Livingstone’s own safety, advised him not to give the Chief a chance of shooting him in the back, whereupon Livingstone retorted, “Tell him to observe that I am not afraid of him,” and mounting his ox rode away triumphantly25.
Plodding26 steadily27 onward28, they arrived on the 8th June at a spot famous for one of{90} Livingstone’s most notable geographical29 discoveries, which he afterwards learned was actual confirmation30 of Sir Roderick Murchison’s theory, which the latter had worked out in his own arm-chair as the only one that would satisfy what was known of the African river systems, and the geological formation. Livingstone had just forded a wide river called the Lotembwa, only three feet deep, and had failed to remark in which direction it was flowing. He believed it to be the same river that flowed south from Lake Dilolo, but a Chief pointed31 out to him that this was not so, for the former river flowed north into the Kasai, one of the main tributaries32 of the Congo. The latter flowed south into the Zambesi. Livingstone now realised that he was “standing on the central ridge33 that divided these two systems”; and what amazed him most was that these vast river systems had their rise, not in a chain of lofty mountains, but on flat plains not more than 4,000 feet above the sea.
The expedition now made slow and peaceful progress along their former route, being{91} welcomed everywhere by their old friends with demonstrations34 of joy and astonishment35. They distributed presents to all who had prospered36 them on their way, and left none but friendly memories behind them. When at the end of July they reached Libonta their progress became a triumphal procession. His men arrayed themselves in white European clothing, swaggered like soldiers, and called themselves his “braves.” During the time of service they sat with their guns over their shoulders. “You have opened a path for us,” said the people, “and we shall have sleep.” The ovations37 continued all down the Barotse valley. There were no drawbacks, except that many of the men found that during their absence some of their wives had sought and found other husbands. Livingstone advised them to console themselves with those that remained. “Even so, you have as many as I have,” he reminded them. At Linyanti Livingstone found his waggon38 and belongings39 perfectly40 safe; and some stores, and a letter a year old, from Dr. and Mrs. Moffat. Sekeletu’s gratifica{92}tion knew no bounds. A grand new uniform had been sent him as a present from the coast, and when he wore it to church on Sunday it produced a greater impression than the sermon. It is worth remarking that Sekeletu at once began to set on foot a trade in ivory with the Portuguese at the coast, in fulfilment of Livingstone’s policy.
For eight weeks Livingstone remained at Linyanti. He found plenty to occupy him. He was once again the guide, philosopher, and friend to all the tribe. He had doctoring to do, and operations to perform. He found personal interviews on religious subjects more satisfactory than the public services, and he was now, as ever, supremely41 anxious that these people should owe their souls to his ministry42. He had letters to write, and journals to transcribe43, and new observations to make. He had all the odd jobs to do that had accumulated during his absence. He found Sekeletu a willing pupil in his ideas on commerce, and on the removal of the tribe to the healthier and wealthier Barotse valley. Especially he had to think out the problem{93} of his next great adventure to the East Coast. His inclination45 decidedly was to trace the course of the Zambesi to Quilimane and the sea. But against this was to be set the fact that it had an evil reputation for the savagery47 of some of the tribes along the banks. Certain Arabs whom he had met had strongly counselled him to strike up country to the North-East and make for Zanzibar by the south of Lake Tanganyika. The tribes were reported to be peaceable, and the villages and food supplies plentiful48. If he decided46 to explore the Zambesi, the problem of the north or south shore was an important one. The north shore was reported to be very rocky and broken, and consequently specially44 difficult for transport.
Either shore was likely to be dangerous to the oxen on account of tsetse fly. All these considerations had to be weighed, and the final decision was to risk the dangers of the tribes along the Zambesi, and to take the north shore, because on Livingstone’s map Tette, the farthest inland station of the Portuguese, was marked as being on the north{94} of the river. This turned out to be untrue. Having settled his course he made his preparations. Sekeletu proved himself a most magnificent ally. Livingstone’s new escort was composed of a hundred and twenty men, with ten slaughter49 oxen and three of the best riding oxen. He was provided with stores of food, and given tribute rights over all tribes subject to Sekeletu. When we consider that Livingstone had no one to finance him, and that the success of his travels depended on the goodwill of native chiefs like Sekeletu, we begin to understand the unique influence which he exercised over the native mind. Those who knew him never failed him at a pinch; they never deserted50 him in his need; they lent their best aid to carry through his enterprises; and gave him every tangible51 proof that can be given from one man to another of confidence, honour and love.
Perhaps before we set out on this new journey, we may quote from Livingstone himself two passages illustrative of the secret of his influence. In the first he says,{95} “No one ever gains much influence in this country without purity and uprightness. The acts of a stranger are keenly scrutinised by both old and young, and seldom is the judgment52 pronounced even by a heathen unfair or uncharitable. I have heard women speaking in admiration53 of a white man because he was pure, and never was guilty of any secret immorality54. Had he been, they would have known it, and, untutored heathen though they be, would have despised him in consequence.” This illustrates55 Livingstone’s favourite doctrine56 that it is the missionary57’s life that is the most powerful sermon. That his teaching was partially58 understood may be gathered from the story of Mamire, Sekeletu’s stepfather, who on coming to say good-bye, used words like these: “You are now going among people who cannot be trusted, because we have used them badly, but you go with a different message from any they ever heard before, and Jesus will be with you, and help you, though among enemies.” It was a gracious and discerning God-speed.
The route selected led Livingstone across{96} what we know to-day as Rhodesia, and which would have been much more appropriately named Livingstonia. It passed to the north of the land inhabited by the formidable and dreaded59 Matabele. The tribes bordering on the Makololo country had no reason to love their oppressive neighbours; and this fact had inspired the fears expressed in Mamire’s words. It was on the 3rd of November, 1855, that the final departure from Linyanti was made; and Sekeletu accompanied the expedition along the first stage. He took the opportunity of showing Livingstone an extraordinary kindness, for the journey began in a terrific tropical thunderstorm. Livingstone’s clothing had gone on, and there was nothing for it but to sleep on the cold ground. Sekeletu, however, took his own blanket and wrapped it about the missionary, lying himself uncovered through the chill night. “I was much affected,” writes Livingstone, “by this little act of genuine kindness. If such men must perish by the advance of civilisation60, as certain races of animals do before others, it is a pity.{97}”
It was no great distance to the famous falls, the rumour61 of which had often reached Livingstone, and which he was the first white man to visit. The falls were originally called Shongwe. Sebituane used to ask Livingstone whether in his own country he had “smoke that sounds,” referring to the pillars of vapour, and the far-carrying roar of the river as it plunged62 into the chasm63 beneath. Sliding down the river in their canoes, they came to within half a mile of the falls, when some of the natives who were expert in the management of the rapids transferred Livingstone to a lighter64 canoe, and with practised dexterity65 guided it to the central island—the “Goat Island” of the Zambesi Falls—“on the edge of the lip over which the water rolls.” This adventure can only be made when the river is low, but it was successfully accomplished, and Livingstone was able to gaze down into the fissure66 into which the great river plunges67 and apparently68 disappears. Then he saw that “a stream of a thousand yards broad leaped down a hundred feet, and{98} then became suddenly compressed into a space of fifteen or twenty yards.” He spent many hours contemplating69 its beauties, noting all its fascinations70, and pondering the scientific problem of its origin. He then permitted himself the only act of nationalism—“personal vanity” he used to call it—that he ever indulged in. He changed the native name to that of the Victoria Falls in honour of the great White Queen; and returning to the island next day with Sekeletu he carved his initials and the date on a tree, and planted “about a hundred peach and apricot stones and a quantity of coffee-seeds,” with the remark that “were there no hippopotami, he had no doubt this would be the parent of all the gardens which may yet be in this new country.”
Sekeletu now returned home, having provided a company of 114 men to carry the tusks71 to the coast, and the expedition set forth in a northward72 direction. Many wars had decimated the country, but there were ample evidences of the savagery of{99} the people. He found one old chief living in a house surrounded with human skulls73, much like Giant Pope’s cave in the “Pilgrim’s Progress.” Many of the skulls were of mere children, slain74 by the chief’s father “to show his fierceness.” The Batoka tribe could be recognised because of their custom of knocking out the upper front teeth at the age of puberty, which gave them an uncouth75 appearance and a hideous76 laugh. He found them “very degraded” and much addicted77 to smoking “the mutokwana,” a pernicious weed which causes a species of frenzy78, and which is often resorted to before battle as the native form of “Dutch courage.”
On the 4th of December they had a foretaste of coming peril79, in the person of a howling dervish, who came at Livingstone with his lips covered with foam80, and with a small battle-axe in his hand. “I felt it would be a sorry way to leave the world, to get my head chopped by a mad savage”—but he would show no fear, and by and by the paroxysm of frenzy passed away. Later{100} on, they heard the tribesmen exulting81 over them. “God has apportioned82 them to us,” they cried. Still there was no outbreak, and the expedition moved on unmolested. The country was now seen to be swarming83 with inhabitants. They had no notion of any invasion of their territory that did not mean conquest and plunder84; but when the villagers listened to Christ’s promise of “Peace on earth, goodwill to men,” they expressed satisfaction. “Give us rest and sleep,” they pleaded. The chief Monze, further on, was urgent that a white man should come and live among his people, and his sister seconded him, exclaiming that it would be joy “to sleep without dreaming of anyone pursuing one with a spear.” Livingstone must have felt like Dante with the vision of the Inferno85 before his eyes.
They travelled on through a healthy and beautiful region, where Livingstone could indulge to the full his love of natural beauties, and study the habits of the wonderful beasts and birds. They kept well to the north of the Zambesi; and the first organised{101} hostility86 awaited them at the confluence87 of the Zambesi and the Loangwa. There is no more striking or characteristic story than this in the whole of Livingstones biography. The chief Mburuma had shown many signs of treachery, and had roused the countryside against the expedition. It seemed almost certain that the passage of the Loangwa would be contested. The people were collecting in large numbers, and remained in obstinate88 suspicion at a distance from the camp. Livingstone’s own reflections are to be gathered from the entries in his Journal. On January 14th—for 1856 has come—he writes, “Thank God for His great mercies this far. How soon I may be called before Him, my righteous Judge, I know not.... On Thy word I lean. The cause is Thine. See, O Lord, how the heathens rise up against me as they did against Thy Son.” Then comes a very characteristic sentence: “It seems a pity that the facts about the two healthy longitudinal regions should not be known in Christendom. Thy will be done.”
Later on in the evening the signs are even{102} more ominous89. “Felt much turmoil90 of spirit in view of having all my plans for the welfare of this great region and teeming91 population knocked on the head by savages92 to-morrow. But Jesus came and said, ‘All power is given to Me in Heaven and on earth. Go ye therefore and teach all nations ... and lo! I am with you always, even unto the end of the world.’ It is the word of a Gentleman of the most sacred and strictest honour and there is an end on’t. I will not cross furtively93 by night as I intended. It would appear as flight, and should such a man as I flee? Nay94, verily, I shall take observations for longitude95 and latitude96 to-night, though they may be the last. I feel quite calm now, thank God.” The next day he superintended the crossing of the river, under the ?gis of natives armed to the teeth, reserving for himself the post of honour, the last man in the last canoe. He stepped in, pushed off, thanked the astonished savages, and wished them peace. Then “passing through the midst of them, he went his way.” They had never seen an enemy like this.{103} New perils97 arose in the country of the powerful chief Mpende; and again Livingstone had little hope of avoiding a skirmish. But he succeeds in explaining that he is an Englishman, and shows them his white skin. “No,” said they, “we never saw skin so white as that. You must be one of the tribe that loves the black men.” He accepted the compliment, and when later he needed a canoe to take a sick man across the river, Mpende, exclaimed, “this white man is truly one of our friends. See how he lets me know his afflictions.”
He was now on the south side of the river, and the natives were peaceful. The 2nd of March saw the expedition within eight miles of Tette, and Portuguese officers came forward to help and welcome him. He succeeded in making arrangements for his Makololo to be cared for until his return, for he could now descend98 the river by boat to Quilimane. Nothing but death, he told them, would prevent his return. The leader of his escort, however, Sekwebu, he had resolved to take to England with him. The result{104} was tragic99. The extraordinary experience of a sea voyage unhinged his reason; and when Mauritius was reached, he sprang overboard and was lost. On December 12th, 1856, David Livingstone reached Dover, having narrowly escaped shipwreck100 off the Bay of Tunis, and having crossed the Continent from Marseilles to Calais. He had girdled Africa from West to East. He was universally recognised as the greatest of explorers. Well might Dr. Moffat write to him, “the honours awaiting you at home would be enough to make a score of light heads dizzy.... You have succeeded beyond the most sanguine101 expectation in laying open a world of immortal102 beings, all needing the Gospel, and at a time, now that war is over, when people may exert their energies on an object compared with which that which has occupied the master minds of Europe, and expended103 so much money, and shed so much blood, is but a phantom104.” Livingstone’s own simple words are the best conclusion of this chapter: “None has cause for more abundant gratitude105 to his{105} fellow-men and to his Maker106 than I have; and may God grant that the effect on my mind be such that I may be more humbly107 devoted108 to the service of the Author of all our mercies.”
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bishop
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| n.主教，（国际象棋）象 | |
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cannon
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| n.大炮，火炮；飞机上的机关炮 | |
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emaciation
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| n.消瘦，憔悴，衰弱 | |
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mere
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| adj.纯粹的；仅仅，只不过 | |
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adamant
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| adj.坚硬的，固执的 | |
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forth
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| adv.向前；向外，往外 | |
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laboriously
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| adv.艰苦地；费力地；辛勤地；（文体等）佶屈聱牙地 | |
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accomplished
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| adj.有才艺的；有造诣的；达到了的 | |
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tempting
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| a.诱人的, 吸引人的 | |
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honourable
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| adj.可敬的；荣誉的，光荣的 | |
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alas
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| int.唉(表示悲伤、忧愁、恐惧等) | |
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drudgery
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| n.苦工，重活，单调乏味的工作 | |
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toil
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| vi.辛劳工作，艰难地行动；n.苦工，难事 | |
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noted
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| adj.著名的，知名的 | |
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Portuguese
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| n.葡萄牙人；葡萄牙语 | |
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cultivation
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| n.耕作，培养，栽培（法），养成 | |
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hospitable
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| adj.好客的；宽容的；有利的，适宜的 | |
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devoid
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| adj.全无的，缺乏的 | |
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groaning
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| adj. 呜咽的, 呻吟的 动词groan的现在分词形式 | |
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opportunely
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| adv.恰好地，适时地 | |
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gaping
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| adj.口的；张口的；敞口的；多洞穴的v.目瞪口呆地凝视( gape的现在分词 )；张开，张大 | |
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daggers
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| 匕首，短剑( dagger的名词复数 ) | |
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martial
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| adj.战争的，军事的，尚武的，威武的 | |
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goodwill
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| n.善意，亲善，信誉，声誉 | |
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triumphantly
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| ad.得意洋洋地；得胜地；成功地 | |
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plodding
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| a.proceeding in a slow or dull way | |
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steadily
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| adv.稳定地；不变地；持续地 | |
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onward
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| adj.向前的，前进的；adv.向前，前进，在先 | |
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geographical
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| adj.地理的；地区(性)的 | |
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confirmation
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| n.证实，确认，批准 | |
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pointed
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| adj.尖的，直截了当的 | |
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tributaries
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| n. 支流 | |
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ridge
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| n.山脊；鼻梁；分水岭 | |
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demonstrations
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| 证明( demonstration的名词复数 )； 表明； 表达； 游行示威 | |
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astonishment
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| n.惊奇，惊异 | |
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prospered
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| 成功，兴旺( prosper的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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ovations
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| n.热烈欢迎( ovation的名词复数 ) | |
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waggon
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| n.运货马车，运货车；敞篷车箱 | |
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belongings
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| n.私人物品，私人财物 | |
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perfectly
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| adv.完美地，无可非议地，彻底地 | |
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supremely
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| adv.无上地，崇高地 | |
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ministry
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| n.(政府的)部；牧师 | |
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transcribe
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| v.抄写，誉写；改编(乐曲)；复制，转录 | |
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specially
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| adv.特定地；特殊地；明确地 | |
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inclination
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| n.倾斜；点头；弯腰；斜坡；倾度；倾向；爱好 | |
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decided
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| adj.决定了的，坚决的；明显的，明确的 | |
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savagery
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| n.野性 | |
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plentiful
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| adj.富裕的，丰富的 | |
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slaughter
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| n.屠杀，屠宰；vt.屠杀，宰杀 | |
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deserted
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| adj.荒芜的，荒废的，无人的，被遗弃的 | |
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tangible
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| adj.有形的，可触摸的，确凿的，实际的 | |
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judgment
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| n.审判；判断力，识别力，看法，意见 | |
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admiration
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| n.钦佩，赞美，羡慕 | |
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immorality
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| n. 不道德, 无道义 | |
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illustrates
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| 给…加插图( illustrate的第三人称单数 )； 说明； 表明； （用示例、图画等）说明 | |
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doctrine
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| n.教义；主义；学说 | |
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missionary
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| adj.教会的，传教(士)的；n.传教士 | |
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partially
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| adv.部分地，从某些方面讲 | |
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dreaded
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| adj.令人畏惧的；害怕的v.害怕，恐惧，担心( dread的过去式和过去分词) | |
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civilisation
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| n.文明，文化，开化，教化 | |
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rumour
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| n.谣言，谣传，传闻 | |
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plunged
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| v.颠簸( plunge的过去式和过去分词 )；暴跌；骤降；突降 | |
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chasm
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| n.深坑，断层，裂口，大分岐，利害冲突 | |
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lighter
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| n.打火机，点火器；驳船；v.用驳船运送；light的比较级 | |
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dexterity
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| n.(手的)灵巧，灵活 | |
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fissure
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| n.裂缝；裂伤 | |
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plunges
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| n.跳进，投入vt.使投入，使插入，使陷入vi.投入，跳进，陷入v.颠簸( plunge的第三人称单数 )；暴跌；骤降；突降 | |
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apparently
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| adv.显然地；表面上，似乎 | |
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contemplating
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| 深思，细想，仔细考虑( contemplate的现在分词 )； 注视，凝视； 考虑接受（发生某事的可能性）； 深思熟虑，沉思，苦思冥想 | |
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fascinations
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| n.魅力( fascination的名词复数 )；有魅力的东西；迷恋；陶醉 | |
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71
tusks
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| n.（象等动物的）长牙( tusk的名词复数 )；獠牙；尖形物；尖头 | |
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northward
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| adv.向北；n.北方的地区 | |
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skulls
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| 颅骨( skull的名词复数 )； 脑袋； 脑子； 脑瓜 | |
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slain
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| 杀死，宰杀，杀戮( slay的过去分词 )； (slay的过去分词) | |
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uncouth
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| adj.无教养的，粗鲁的 | |
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hideous
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| adj.丑陋的，可憎的，可怕的，恐怖的 | |
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addicted
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| adj.沉溺于....的，对...上瘾的 | |
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frenzy
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| n.疯狂，狂热，极度的激动 | |
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peril
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| n.(严重的)危险；危险的事物 | |
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foam
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| v./n.泡沫，起泡沫 | |
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exulting
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| vi. 欢欣鼓舞，狂喜 | |
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apportioned
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| vt.分摊，分配（apportion的过去式与过去分词形式） | |
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swarming
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| 密集( swarm的现在分词 )； 云集； 成群地移动； 蜜蜂或其他飞行昆虫成群地飞来飞去 | |
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plunder
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| vt.劫掠财物，掠夺；n.劫掠物，赃物；劫掠 | |
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inferno
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| n.火海；地狱般的场所 | |
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hostility
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| n.敌对，敌意；抵制［pl.］交战，战争 | |
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confluence
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| n.汇合，聚集 | |
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obstinate
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| adj.顽固的，倔强的，不易屈服的，较难治愈的 | |
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ominous
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| adj.不祥的，不吉的，预兆的，预示的 | |
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turmoil
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| n.骚乱，混乱，动乱 | |
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teeming
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| adj.丰富的v.充满( teem的现在分词 )；到处都是；（指水、雨等）暴降；倾注 | |
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savages
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| 未开化的人，野蛮人( savage的名词复数 ) | |
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furtively
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| adv. 偷偷地, 暗中地 | |
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nay
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| adv.不；n.反对票，投反对票者 | |
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longitude
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| n.经线，经度 | |
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latitude
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| n.纬度，行动或言论的自由(范围)，(pl.)地区 | |
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perils
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| 极大危险( peril的名词复数 )； 危险的事（或环境） | |
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descend
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| vt./vi.传下来，下来，下降 | |
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tragic
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| adj.悲剧的，悲剧性的，悲惨的 | |
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shipwreck
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| n.船舶失事，海难 | |
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101
sanguine
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| adj.充满希望的，乐观的，血红色的 | |
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immortal
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| adj.不朽的；永生的，不死的；神的 | |
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expended
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| v.花费( expend的过去式和过去分词 )；使用（钱等）做某事；用光；耗尽 | |
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104
phantom
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| n.幻影，虚位，幽灵；adj.错觉的，幻影的，幽灵的 | |
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105
gratitude
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| adj.感激，感谢 | |
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maker
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| n.制造者，制造商 | |
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107
humbly
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| adv. 恭顺地，谦卑地 | |
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108
devoted
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| adj.忠诚的，忠实的，热心的，献身于...的 | |
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