We landed at Pasuruan because it is the port nearest to Bromo, the most famous of the great volcanoes of Eastern Java, but as there is no harbor, only[164] a shallow, unprotected roadstead, it was necessary for the Negros to anchor nearly three miles offshore8. So shallow is the water, indeed, that it is a common sight at low tide to see the native fishermen standing9 knee-deep in the sea a mile from land. Until quite recently debarkation10 at Pasuruan was an extremely uncomfortable and undignified proceeding11, the passengers on the infrequent vessels12 which touch there being carried ashore13 astride of a rail borne on the shoulders of two natives. A coat of tar14 and feathers was all that was needed to make the passenger feel that he was a victim of the Ku Klux Klan. But a narrow channel has now been dredged through the sand-bar so that row-boats and launches of shallow draught16 can make their way up the squdgy creek17 to the custom house at high tide.
Until half a century ago Pasuruan was counted as one of the four great cities of Java, but with the extension of the railway system throughout the island and the development of the harbor at Surabaya, forty miles away, its importance steadily18 diminished, though traces of its one-time prosperity are still visible in its fine streets and beautiful houses, most of which, however, are now occupied by Chinese. Perhaps the most interesting feature of the place today is found in the costumes of the native women, particularly the girls, who wear a kind of shirt and veil combining all the colors of the rainbow.
From Pasuruan to Tosari, which is a celebrated19 hill-station and the gateway20 to the volcanoes of eastern Java, is about twenty-five miles, with an excellent[165] motor road all the way. For the first ten miles the road, here a wide avenue shaded by tamarinds and djati trees, runs across a steaming plain, between fields of rice and cane21, but after Pasrepan the ascent22 of the mountains begins. The highway now becomes extremely steep and narrow, with countless23 hairpin24 turns, though all danger of collision is eliminated by the regulations which permit no down-traffic in the morning and no up-traffic in the afternoon. During the final fifteen miles, in which is made an ascent of more than six thousand feet, one has the curious experience of passing, in a single hour, from the torrid to the temperate25 zone. In the earlier stages of the ascent the road zigzags26 upward through magnificent tropical forests, where troops of huge gray apes chatter27 in the upper branches and grass-green parrots flash from tree to tree. Palms of all varieties, orchids28, tree-ferns, bamboos, bananas, mangoes, gradually give way to slender pines; the heavy odors of the tropics are replaced by a pleasant balsamic fragrance29; the hillsides become clothed with familiar flowers—daisies, buttercups, heliotrope30, roses, fuchsias, geraniums, cannas, camelias, Easter lilies, azaleas, morning glories, until the mountain-slopes look like a vast old-fashioned garden. In the fields, instead of rice and cane, strawberries, potatoes, cabbages, onions, and corn, are seen. As the road ascends31 the air becomes cold and very damp; rain-clouds gather on the mountains and there are frequent showers. At one point the mist became so thick that I could scarcely discern the figure[166] of my chauffeur32 and we were compelled to advance with the utmost caution, for at many points the road, none too wide at best, falls sheer away in dizzy precipices33. But as suddenly as it came, just as suddenly did the mist lift, revealing the great plain of Pasuruan, a mile below, stretching away, away, until its green was blended with the turquoise35 of the Java Sea. It is a veritable Road of a Thousand Wonders, but there are spots where those who do not relish36 great heights and narrow spaces will explain that they prefer to walk so that they may gather wild-flowers.
Were it not for the wild appearance of its Tenngri mountaineers, Tosari, which is the best health resort in Java, might be readily mistaken for an Alpine37 village, for it has the same steep and straggling streets, the same weather-beaten chalets clinging precariously38 to the rocky hillsides, the same quaint39 shops, their windows filled with souvenirs and postcards, the same glorious view of green valleys and majestic40 peaks, the same crisp, cool air, as exhilarating as champagne41. The Sanatarium Hotel, which is always filled with sallow-faced officials and planters from the plains, consists of a large main building built in the Swiss chalet style and numerous bungalows42 set amid a gorgeous garden of old-fashioned flowers. Every bedroom has a bath—but such a bath!—a damp, gloomy, cement-lined cell having in one corner a concrete cistern43, filled with ice-cold mountain water. The only furniture is a tin dipper. And it takes real courage, let me tell you,[167] to ladle that icy water over your shivering person in the chill of a mountain morning.
The mountain slopes in the vicinity of Tosari are dotted with the wretched wooden huts of the native tribe called Tenggerese, the only race in Java which has remained faithful to Buddhism44. There are only about five thousand of them and they keep to themselves in their own community, shut out from the rest of the world. They are shorter and darker than the natives of the plains and, like most savages45, are lazy, ignorant and incredibly filthy46. Because the air is cool and dry, and water rather scarce, they never bathe, preferring to remain dirty. As a result the aroma47 of their villages is a thing not soon forgotten. The doors of their huts, which have no windows, all face Mount Bromo, where their guardian48 deity49, Dewa Soelan Iloe, is supposed to dwell. Once each year the Tenggerese hold a great feast at the foot of the volcano, and, until the Dutch authorities suppressed the custom, were accustomed to conclude these ceremonies by tossing a living child into the crater50 as a sacrifice to their god. Though an ancient tradition forbids the cultivation51 of rice by the Tenggerese, they earn a meager52 living by raising vegetables, which they carry on horseback to the markets on the plain, and by acting53 as guides and coolies. They are incredibly strong and tireless, the two men who carried Hawkinson's heavy motion-picture outfit54 to the summit of Bromo making the round trip of forty miles in a single day over some of the steepest trails I have ever seen.
[168]Growing on the mountainsides about Tosari are many bushes of thorn apple, called Datara alba, their white, funnel55-shaped flowers being sometimes twelve inches long. From the seeds of the thorn apple the Tenggerese make a sort of flour which is strongly narcotic56 in its effect. Because of this quality, it is occasionally utilized57 by burglars, who blow it into a room which they propose to rob, through the key-hole, thereby58 drugging the occupants into insensibility and making it easy for the burglars to gain access to the room and help themselves to its contents. Which reminds me that in some parts of Malaysia native desperadoes are accustomed to pound the fronds59 of certain varieties of palm to the consistency60 of powdered glass. They carry a small quantity of this powder with them and when they meet anyone against whom they have a grudge61 they blow it into his face. The sharp particles, being inhaled62, quickly affect the lungs and death usually results. A friend of mine, for many years an American consul in the East, once had the misfortune to be next to the victim of such an attack, and himself inhaled a small quantity of the deadly powder. The lung trouble which shortly developed hastened, if it did not actually cause, his death.
That we might reach the Moengal Pass at daybreak in order to see the superb panorama63 of Bromo and the adjacent volcanoes as revealed by the rising sun, we started from Tosari at two o'clock in the morning. Our mounts were wiry mountain ponies64, hardy65 as mustangs and sure-footed as goats. And it was[169] well that they were, for the trail was the steepest and narrowest that I have ever seen negotiated by horses. The Bright Angel Trail, which leads from the rim66 of the Grand Canon down to the Colorado, is a Central Park bridle-path in comparison. In places the grade rose to fifty per cent and in many of the descents I had to lean back until my head literally67 touched the pony68's tail. It recalled the days, long past, when, as a student at the Italian Cavalry69 School, I was called upon to ride down the celebrated precipice34 at Tor di Quinto. But there, if your mount slipped, a thick bed of sawdust was awaiting you to break the fall. Here there was nothing save jagged rocks. We started in pitch darkness and for three hours rode through a night so black that I could not see my pony's ears. The trail, which in places was barely a foot wide, ran for miles along a sort of hogback, the ground falling sheer away on either side. It was like riding blindfolded70 along the ridgepole of a church, and, had my pony slipped, the results would have been the same.
But the trials of the ascent were forgotten in the overwhelming grandeur71 of the scene which burst upon us as, just at sunrise, we drew rein72 at the summit of the Moengal Pass. Never, not in the Rockies, nor the Himalayas, nor the Alps, have I seen anything more sublime73. At our feet yawned a vast valley, or rather a depression, like an excavation74 for some titanic75 building, hemmed76 in by perpendicular77 cliffs a thousand feet in height. Wafted78 by the morning breeze a mighty79 river of clouds poured slowly down the valley, filling[170] it with gray-white fleece from brim to brim. Slowly the clouds dissolved before the mounting sun until there lay revealed below us the floor of the depression, known as the Sand Sea, its yellow surface, smooth as the beach at Ormond, slashed80 across by the beds of dried-up streams and dotted with clumps81 of stunted82 vegetation. Like the Sahara it is boundless—a symbol of solitude83 and desolation. When, in the early morning or toward nightfall, the conical volcanoes cast their lengthening84 shadows upon this expanse of sand, it reminds one of the surface of the moon as seen through a telescope. But at midday, beneath the pitiless rays of the equatorial sun, it resembles an enormous pool of molten brass85, the illusion being heightened by the heat-waves which flicker86 and dance above it. From the center of the Sand Sea rises the extinct crater of Batok, a sugar-loaf cone87 whose symmetrical slopes are so corrugated88 by hardened rivulets89 of lava90 that they look for all the world like folds of gray-brown cloth. Beyond Batok we could catch a glimpse of Bromo itself, belching91 skyward great clouds of billowing smoke and steam, while from its crater came a rumble93 as of distant thunder. And far in the distance, its purple bulk faintly discernible against the turquoise sky, rose Smeroe, the greatest volcano of them all.
The descent from the Moengal Pass to the Sand Sea is so steep that it is necessary to make it on foot, even the nimble-footed ponies having all they can do to scramble94 down the precipitous and slippery trail. It is [171]well to cross the Sand Sea as soon after daybreak as possible, for by mid-morning the heat is like a blast from an open furnace-door. It is a four mile ride across the Sand Sea to the lower slopes of Bromo, but the sand is firm and hard and we let the ponies break into a gallop—an exhilarating change from the tedious crawl necessary in the mountains. Then came a stiff climb of a mile or more over fantastically shaped hills of lava, the final ascent to the brink95 of the crater being accomplished96 by a flight of two hundred and fifty stone steps. The crater of Bromo is shaped like a huge funnel, seven hundred feet deep and nearly half a mile across. From it belch92 unceasingly dark gray clouds of smoke and sulphurous fumes97, while now and then large rocks are spewed high in the air only to fall back again, rolling down the inside slope of the crater with a thunderous rumble, as though the god whom the Tenggerese believe dwells on the mountain was playing at ten-pins. Deep down at the bottom of the crater jets of greenish-yellow sulphur flicker in a cauldron of molten lava, from which a red flame now and then leaps upward, like an out-thrust serpent's tongue. No wonder that the ignorant mountaineers look on Bromo with fear and veneration98, for it huddles99 there, in the midst of that awful solitude, like some monster in its death agony, gasping100 and groaning101.
The transition from the lofty solitudes102 of the Tengger Mountains to the steaming, teeming103 thoroughfares of Surabaya, the metropolis104 of eastern Java, is not a pleasant one. For Surabaya—there are no less than[172] half-a-dozen ways of spelling its name—though the greatest trading port in Java, from the point of view of the visitor is not an attractive city. Neither is it a healthy place, for it has a hot, humid, sticky climate, it lacks good drinking water and enjoys no refreshing105 breeze; mosquitoes feed on one's body and red ants on one's belongings106; malaria107 and typhoid are prevalent and even bubonic plague is not unknown, the combined effect of all these showing in the sallow and enervated108 faces of its inhabitants. Yet it is a bustling109, up-and-doing city, as different from phlegmatic110, conservative old Batavia as Los Angeles is from Boston.
Unlike the houses of Batavia, which stand far back from the street in lovely gardens, the houses of Surabaya are built directly on the street, with their gardens at the back. Most of the houses of the better class are in the Dutch colonial style—low and white with green blinds and across the front a stately row of columns. Every house is marked with a huge signboard bearing the number and the owner's name, thus making it easy for the stranger to find the one for which he is looking. There are no sidewalks and, as a consequence, walking is anything but pleasant, the streets being deep in dust during the dry season and equally deep in mud during the rains. I do not recall ever having seen a city of its size with so much wheeled traffic. Indeed, the scene on the Simpang Road about three in the afternoon, when the merchants are returning to their offices after the midday siesta111, resembles that on Fifth Avenue at the rush hour, the[173] broad thoroughfare being literally packed from curb112 to curb with vehicles of every description: the ramshackle little victorias known as mylords, the high, two-wheeled dog-carts, with their seats back to back, called sados, the two-pony cabs termed kosongs, creaking bullock carts with wheels higher than a man, hand-cars and rickshaws hauled by dripping coolies, and other coolies staggering along beneath the weight of burdens swinging from the carrying-poles called pikolans, and every make and model of motor-cars from ostentatious, self-important Rolls-Royces to busybody Fords. Standing in the middle of the roadway, controlling and directing this roaring river of traffic with surprising efficiency are diminutive113 Javanese policemen wearing blue helmets many sizes too large for them and armed with revolvers, swords and clubs.
The port of Surabaya, which is the busiest in the entire Insulinde, is four miles from the business section of the city, with which it is connected by a splendid asphalt highway lined by huge warehouses114, factories, godowns and oil-tanks, many of them bearing familiar American names. In fact, one of the first things to attract my attention in Java was the great variety of American articles on sale and in use—motor cars, tires, typewriters, office supplies, cameras, phonographs, agricultural machinery115 of all descriptions.
More than a tenth of Surabaya's population is Chinese and their commercial influence dominates the whole city. They have the finest residences, the most[174] luxurious116 clubs, the largest shops, the handsomest motor cars. I was shown a row of warehouses extending along the canal for one long block which are the property of a single Chinese. Wherever I traveled in the Indies I was impressed by the business acumen117 and success of these impassive, industrious118 sons of the Flowery Kingdom. They are the Greeks of the Far East but without the Greek's unscrupulousness and lack of dependability. A Chinese will not hesitate to take advantage of you in a business deal, but if he once gives you his word he will always keep it, no matter at what cost to himself, and if you should leave your pocketbook in his shop he will come hurrying after you to restore it. The Chinese living in the Indies are uniformly prosperous—many of them are millionaires—they have their own clubs and chambers119 of commerce and charitable organizations; they not infrequently control the finances of the districts in which they live and, generally speaking, they make excellent citizens.
Java has almost exactly the same area—50,000 square miles—and the same population—34,000,000—as England. Agriculturally, it is the richest country of its size in the world. Because I wished to visit the great tea and coffee and indigo120 plantations121 of its interior and to see its palaces and temples and monuments, I decided122 to traverse the island from end to end by train and motor car. Accordingly we left the Negros at Surabaya, directing Captain Galvez to[175] pick us up a fortnight later at Batavia, at the other end of the island.
There are at present more than three thousand miles of railways in operation in Java, about two-thirds of which are the property of the government. With a few exceptions, the lines are narrow gauge123. The railway carriages are a curious combination of English, Swiss and American construction, being divided into compartments124, which are separated by swinging half-doors, like those which used to be associated with saloons. The seats in the second-class compartments, which are covered with cane, are decidedly more comfortable than those of the first class, which are upholstered in leather. Owing to the excessive heat and humidity, the leather has the annoying habit of adhering to one's clothing, so that you frequently leave the train after a long journey with a section of the seat-covering sticking to your trousers or with a section of your trousers sticking to the seat. To avoid the discomfort125 of the midday heat, the long-distance express trains usually start at daybreak and reach their destinations at noon, which, though doubtless a sensible custom, necessitates126 the traveler arising when it is still dark. The express trains have dining cars, in which a meal of sorts can be had for two guilders (about eighty cents) and the first and second-class carriages are equipped with electric fans and screens. In spite of these conveniences, however, travel in Java is hot and dusty and generally disagreeable. After a railway journey one needs a bath, a shave, a haircut, a shampoo, a massage127, and a complete[176] outfit of fresh clothes before feeling respectable again.
In many respects, motoring is more comfortable than railway travel. The roads throughout the island are excellent and have been carefully marked by the Java Motor Club, though fast driving is made dangerous by the bullock carts, pack trains and carabaos, which pay no attention to the rules of the road. Nor is motoring particularly expensive, for an excellent seven-passenger car of a well-known American make can be hired for forty dollars a day. Visitors to Java should bear in mind, however, that all their motoring and sight-seeing must be done in the morning, as, during the wet season, it invariably rains in torrents128 during the greater part of every afternoon.
The hotels of Java, taking them by and large, are moderately good, while certain of them, such as the Oranje at Surabaya, the Grand at Djokjakarta, and the Indies at Batavia, are quite excellent in spots, with orchestras, iced drinks, electric fans, and well-cooked food. Though every room has a bath—a necessity in such a climate—tubs are quite unknown, their place being taken by showers, or, in the simpler hostleries, by barrels of water and dippers. The mattresses129 and pillows appeared to be filled with asphalt, though it should be remembered that a soft bed is unendurable in the tropics. Every bed is provided with a cylindrical130 bolster131, six feet long and about fifteen inches in diameter, which serves to keep the sheet from touching132 the body. They are known as "Dutch widows."
If you are fond of good coffee, I should strongly[177] advise you to take your own with you when you go to Java. From my boyhood "Old Government Java" had been a synonym133 in our household for the finest coffee grown, so my astonishment134 and disappointment can be imagined when, at my first breakfast in Java, there was set before me a cup containing a dubious135 looking syrup136, like those used at American soda-water fountains, the cup then being filled up with hot milk. The Germans never would have complained about their war-time coffee, made from chicory and acorns137, had they once tasted the Java product. Yet I was assured that this was the choicest coffee grown in Java. I might add that, as a result of a blight138 which all but ruined the industry in the '70s, fifty-two per cent of the total acreage of coffee plantations in the island is now planted with the African species, called Coffea robusta, and thirteen per cent with another African species, Coffea liberia, and the rest with Japanese and other varieties. Though the term "Mocha and Java" is still used by the trade in the United States, few Americans of the present generation have ever tasted either, for virtually no Mocha coffee and very little Java have been imported into this country for many years.
The lazy, leisurely139, luxurious existence led by the great Dutch planters in Java is in many respects a counterpart of that led by the wealthy planters of our own South before the Civil War. Dwelling140 in stately mansions141 set in the midst of vast estates, waited upon by retinues142 of native servants, they exercise much the same arbitrary authority over the thousands of brown[178] men who work their coffee, sugar and indigo plantations that the cotton-growers of the old South exercised over their slaves. Indeed, it was not until 1914 that a form of peonage which had long been authorized143 in Java was abolished by law, for up to that year private landowners had the right to enforce from all the laborers144 on their estates one day's gratuitous145 work out of seven.
There are no shrewder or more capable business men to be found anywhere than the Dutch traders and merchants in Java. Many of the great trading houses of the Dutch Indies have remained the property of the same family for generations, their staffs being as carefully trained for the business as the Dutch officials are trained for the colonial service. The young men come out from Holland as cadets with the intention of spending the remainder of their lives in the Insulinde, studying the native languages and acquainting themselves with native prejudices, predilections146 and customs. They are usually blessed with a phlegmatic temperament147, well suited to life in the tropics, take life easily, live in considerable luxury, play a little tennis, grow fat, spend their afternoons in pajamas148 and slippers149, stroll down to the local Concordia Club in the evenings to sit at small tables on the terrace and drink enormous quantities of beer and listen to the band, not infrequently marry native women, and often amass150 great fortunes.
Though the Javanese peasant is, from necessity, industrious, the upper classes, particularly the nobles, are effeminate, indolent, decadent151, and servile. Their[179] amusements are cock-fighting, dancing, shadow plays, and gambling152, and they lead an utterly153 worthless existence which the Dutch do nothing to discourage. Their Mohammedanism is decadent and has none of the virility154 which distinguishes those followers155 of Islam who dwell in western lands. Though there is no denying that the natives are immeasurably more prosperous, on the whole, than before the white man came, the Dutch have done little if anything to improve their living conditions. True, their rule is a just and a not unkind one; they have built roads and railways, but this was done in order to open up the island; and they have established a number of industrial and technical schools, but there is no system of compulsory156 education, and no systematic157 attempt has been made to ameliorate the condition of the great brown mass of the people. I do not think that I am doing them an injustice158 when I assert that the Dutch are administrators159 rather than altruists, that they are more concerned in maintaining a just and stable government in their insular160 possessions, and in increasing their productivity, than they are in improving the moral, mental, and material condition of the natives.
Lying squarely in the middle of Java are the Vorstenlanden, "the Lands of the Princes"—Soerakarta and Djokjakarta—the most curious, as they are the most picturesque161, states in the entire Insulinde. But, because in their form of government and the lives and customs of their inhabitants they are so vastly different[180] from the other portions of the island, I feel that they are deserving of a chapter to themselves and hence shall omit any account of them here.
Bandoeng, the prosperous and extremely up-to-date capital of the Preanger Regencies, is the fifth largest city in Java, being exceeded in population only by Batavia, Surabaya, Surakarta and Samarang. The city, which is the healthiest and most modern in Java, stands in the middle of a great plain, 2300 feet above the sea, having, therefore, a delightful162 all-the-year-round climate. It has excellent electric lighting163, water and sanitary164 systems, miles of well-paved and shaded streets, and many beautiful residences—the finest I saw in Malaysia—set in the midst of charming gardens. It is planned to remove the seat of government from Batavia to Bandoeng in the not far distant future and the handsome buildings which will eventually house the various departments are rapidly nearing completion. When they are completed Bandoeng will be one of the finest, if not the finest colonial capital in the world. But, attractive though the city is, it holds nothing of particular interest to the casual visitor unless it be the quinine factory. This company seems likely to succeed in cornering the supply of Javanese cinchona bark and is fast building up a world market for its product. The cinchona tree, from which the bark is obtained, was first introduced from South America in the middle of the last century and is now widely grown throughout the Preanger Regencies, both by the [181]government and by private planters. After six or seven years the tree is sufficiently165 matured for the removal of its bark, which, after being carefully dried, sorted, and baled, is shipped to the factory in Bandoeng, where it is manufactured into the quinine of commerce. The process of manufacture is a secret one, which explains, though it does not excuse, the extreme discourtesy shown by the management toward foreigners desiring to visit the plant.
It takes three and a half hours by express train from Bandoeng to Buitenzorg, the summer capital of the Indies, and the journey is one of the pleasantest in Java, the railway being bordered for miles by marvellously constructed rice terraces which climb the slopes of the Gedei, tier on tier, transforming the mountainsides into a series of hanging gardens. When the shallow, water-filled terraces are illuminated166 by the tropic sun, they look for all the world like a titanic stairway of silver ascending167 to the heavens. Take my word for it, the rice terraces of the Preangers are in themselves worth traveling the length of Java to see.
Though Batavia is the official capital of Netherlands India, the hill-station of Buitenzorg, some twenty miles inland, is the actual seat of government and the residence of the Governor-General. Buitenzorg—the name means "free from care"—is to Java what Simla is to India, what Baguio is, in a lesser168 degree, to the Philippines. It has often been compared to Versailles, and, in its pleasant existence, in the enchanting169 effects which have been produced by its landscape gardeners,[182] in its great white palace even, one can trace some slight resemblance to the famous home of le Roi Soleil. Buitenzorg is conspicuously170 different from other Javanese cities, partly because, being the seat of government, its European quarter is exceptionally extensive, but primarily because it boasts the famous Botanical Gardens, in many respects the finest in the world. Its avenues, shaded by splendid trees, are lined with charming, white-walled villas171, the residences of the government officials and of retired172 officers and merchants, set far back in lovely, fragrant173 gardens. The palace of the Governor-General, a huge, white building of classic lines, faintly reminiscent of the White House in Washington, is superbly situated174 in the Botanic Gardens, the rear overlooking a charming lotos pond, its surface covered with the huge leaves of the water-plant known as Victoria Regia, amid which numbers of white swans drift gracefully175; while the colonnaded176 front commands a magnificent view of a vast deer park which reminds one of the stately manor177 parks of England.
When you arrive at the Hotel Bellevue in Buitenzorg, be sure and ask for one of the "mountain rooms." The view which is commanded by their balconies has few equals in all the world. Far in the distance rises the majestic, cloud-wreathed cone of Salak, its wooded slopes wrapped in a cloak of purple-gray. From its foot, cutting a way toward Buitenzorg through a sea of foliage178, is a ribbon of brown—the Tjidani River. Its banks, lined by miles of waving palms, are crowded[183] with the quaint, thatched dwellings179 of the natives, hundreds of whom—men, women and children—are bathing in its water. One of the most curious and amusing sights in Java is that of the native women bathing in the streams. They enter the river wearing their sarongs, gradually raise them as they go deeper into the stream, slip them over their heads when the water has reached their armpits, and, when they have completed their ablutions, reverse the process, thus achieving the feat15 of bathing in full view of hundreds of spectators without the slightest improper180 revelation. Hawkinson set up his camera on the bank of the Tjidani and spent several hundred feet of film in recording181 one of these performances. Even the Pennsylvania State Board of Censors182 will be unable to find any objection to that bathing scene.
Though the gardens of Buitenzorg are a veritable treasure-house for the botanist183 and the horticulturist—for the Dutch are the best gardeners in the world—from the standpoint of the casual visitor they cannot compare, to my way of thinking, with the Peradenya Gardens of Ceylon. It is beyond all doubt, however, the finest collection of tropical trees and plants in existence. Here, besides full-grown specimens184 of every known tree of the torrid zone, are culture gardens for sugar cane, coffee, tea, rubber, ilang-ilang; for all the spice, gum, and fruit trees; for bamboo, rattan185, and the hard woods, such as mahogany and teak—in short, for every variety of tree or plant of commercial, ornamental186, or utilitarian187 value. There are also gardens for all[184] the gorgeous flowers of Java: the frangipani, the wax-white, gold-centered flower of the dead, the red and yellow lantanas, the scarlet188 poinsetta, the crimson189 bougainvillea, and others in bewildering variety. There are greenhouses to shelter the rarer and more sensitive plants—to shelter them not, as in our hothouses, from the cold, but, on the contrary, from the heat and the withering190 rays of the sun. Here too is one of the finest collections of orchids in existence, tended by an ancient Javanese gardener who is as proud of his curious blooms as a trainer is of his race horses or a collector of his porcelains191. As for the palms, I had no idea that so many varieties existed until I visited Buitenzorg—emperor palms, Areca palms, Banka palms, cocoanut palms, fan palms, cabbage palms, sago palms, date palms, feather palms, travelers' palms, oil palms, Chuson palms, climbing palms over a hundred feet long—palms without end, Amen. Small wonder that the palm is regarded with affection wherever it can be grown, for what other tree can furnish food, shelter, clothing, timber, fuel, building materials, fiber192, paper, starch193, sugar, oil, wax, dyes and wine?
But, when all is said and done, nothing in those splendid gardens, not the stately avenue of kanari trees whose interlacing branches form a nave194 as awe-inspiring as that of some great cathedral, not the rare and curious orchids which would arouse the envy of a millionaire, appealed to me so powerfully as a little Grecian temple of white marble, all but hidden by the encircling shrubbery, which marks the sleeping-place of[185] Lady Raffles195, wife of that Sir Stamford Raffles who once was the British lieutenant-governor of Java. It pleases me to think that it is toward this little, moss-grown temple that the bronze statue of the great empire-builder, which stands on the Esplanade in Singapore, is peering with wistful eyes, for on its base he carved these lines:
"Oh thou whom ne'er my constant heart One moment hath forgot, Tho' fate severe hath bid us part Yet still—forget me not."
Batavia, the capital of the Indies, is built on both banks of the Jacatra River, in a swampy196 and unhealthy plain at the head of a capacious bay. Just as New York is divided into the boroughs197 of Manhattan and the Bronx, so the metropolis of Netherlands India is divided into the districts of Batavia and Weltevreden, the suburb of Meester Cornelis corresponding to Brooklyn. Batavia is the business quarter of the city; Weltevreden the residential198. The former, which is built on the edge of the harbor, is very thickly populated and, because of its lowness, very unhealthy. Only natives, Malays, Chinese and Arabs live here and the great European houses which were once the homes of the Dutch officials and merchants have either fallen into decay or have been converted into warehouses and shops. The Europeans now live in Weltevreden, or Meester Cornelis, though they have their offices in the lower town. Both the upper and lower towns are[186] traversed by the Jacatra—sometimes called the Tjiliwoeng—from which branch canals that spread through the city in all directions, thereby emphasizing its distinctly Dutch atmosphere. The streets are for the most part straight and regular, being paved, as in the mother-country, with cobblestones. Old Batavia contains very few relics200 of the early days, but it is quaint and delightfully201 picturesque and its canals, though anything but desirable from the standpoint of health, add much to its individuality and charm. The most characteristic feature of Batavia, that distinguishes it from all other colonial cities of the East, is that in all its construction, both public and private, permanency seems to be the dominant202 note. The Dutch do not come to Java, as the English go to India and the Americans to the Philippines, in order to amass fortunes in a few years and then go home; they come with the intention of remaining. When their children grow up they are sent back to Holland to be educated, but, once their schooling203 is completed, they almost invariably return to the East and devote their lives to the development of the land in which they were born.
Batavia, which means literally 'Fair meadows,' was originally called Jacatra. The Dutch established a trading post here in 1610, the land being obtained from the natives by a trick similar to that associated by tradition with the acquisition of the lower end of Manhattan Island by the founders204 of Nieuw Amsterdam. The Javanese, it seems, were reluctant to sell to the Dutch a parcel of land sufficiently large for the [187]erection of a fort and trading station, but after much discussion they finally consented to part with as much land as could be included within a single bullock's hide, which was their way of saying that their land was not for sale. This crafty205 stipulation206 did not worry the equally crafty Dutch, however, for they promptly207 obtained the largest hide available, cut it into narrow strips, and, placing these end to end, insisted on their right to the very considerable parcel of ground thus enclosed under the terms of the bargain.
A relic199 illustrative of the barbarous punishments which were in vogue208 during the colony's earlier days is to be seen by driving a short distance up Jacatra Road, in the lower town. Close by the ancient Portuguese209 church you will find a short section of old wall. Atop the wall, transfixed by a spear-point, is an object which, despite its many coats of whitewash210, is still recognizable as a human skull211. Set in the wall is a tablet bearing this inscription212:
"In detested213 memory of the traitor214, Peter Erberveld, who was executed. No one will be permitted to build, lay bricks or plant on this spot, either now or in the future.
Batavia, April 14, 1772."
Erberveld was a half-caste agitator215 who had conspired216 with certain disaffected217 natives to launch a revolt, massacre218 all the Dutch in Batavia, and have himself proclaimed king. Fortunately for the Dutch, the plot was betrayed through the faithlessness of a native girl with whom Erberveld was infatuated. Because of the imperative219 need of safeguarding the little handful of white colonists220 against massacre by the natives, it[188] was decided that the half-caste should be punished in a manner which would strike fear to the hearts of the Javanese, who have no particular dread221 of death in its ordinary forms. The judges did their best to achieve this object, for Erberveld was sentenced to be impaled222 alive, broken on the wheel, his hands and head cut off, and his body quartered. Why they omitted hanging and burning from the list I can not imagine. The sentence was carried out—the contemporary accounts record that he endured his fate with silent fortitude—and his head is on the wall to-day. But I think that, were I the Governor-General of the Indies, I should have that grisly reminder223 of the bad old days taken down. Many nations have family skeletons but they usually prefer to keep them out of sight.

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1
extremity
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n.末端,尽头;尽力;终极;极度 | |
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sag
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v.下垂,下跌,消沉;n.下垂,下跌,凹陷,[航海]随风漂流 | |
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afterward
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adv.后来;以后 | |
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consul
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n.领事;执政官 | |
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breach
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n.违反,不履行;破裂;vt.冲破,攻破 | |
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etiquette
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n.礼仪,礼节;规矩 | |
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behooves
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n.利益,好处( behoof的名词复数 )v.适宜( behoove的第三人称单数 ) | |
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offshore
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adj.海面的,吹向海面的;adv.向海面 | |
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standing
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n.持续,地位;adj.永久的,不动的,直立的,不流动的 | |
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debarkation
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n.下车,下船,登陆 | |
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proceeding
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n.行动,进行,(pl.)会议录,学报 | |
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vessels
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n.血管( vessel的名词复数 );船;容器;(具有特殊品质或接受特殊品质的)人 | |
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ashore
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adv.在(向)岸上,上岸 | |
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tar
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n.柏油,焦油;vt.涂或浇柏油/焦油于 | |
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feat
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n.功绩;武艺,技艺;adj.灵巧的,漂亮的,合适的 | |
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draught
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n.拉,牵引,拖;一网(饮,吸,阵);顿服药量,通风;v.起草,设计 | |
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creek
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n.小溪,小河,小湾 | |
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steadily
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adv.稳定地;不变地;持续地 | |
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celebrated
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adj.有名的,声誉卓著的 | |
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gateway
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n.大门口,出入口,途径,方法 | |
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cane
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n.手杖,细长的茎,藤条;v.以杖击,以藤编制的 | |
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ascent
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n.(声望或地位)提高;上升,升高;登高 | |
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countless
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adj.无数的,多得不计其数的 | |
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hairpin
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n.簪,束发夹,夹发针 | |
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temperate
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adj.温和的,温带的,自我克制的,不过分的 | |
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zigzags
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n.锯齿形的线条、小径等( zigzag的名词复数 )v.弯弯曲曲地走路,曲折地前进( zigzag的第三人称单数 ) | |
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chatter
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vi./n.喋喋不休;短促尖叫;(牙齿)打战 | |
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28
orchids
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n.兰花( orchid的名词复数 ) | |
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fragrance
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n.芬芳,香味,香气 | |
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30
heliotrope
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n.天芥菜;淡紫色 | |
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31
ascends
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v.上升,攀登( ascend的第三人称单数 ) | |
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chauffeur
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n.(受雇于私人或公司的)司机;v.为…开车 | |
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precipices
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n.悬崖,峭壁( precipice的名词复数 ) | |
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precipice
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n.悬崖,危急的处境 | |
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turquoise
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n.绿宝石;adj.蓝绿色的 | |
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relish
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n.滋味,享受,爱好,调味品;vt.加调味料,享受,品味;vi.有滋味 | |
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alpine
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adj.高山的;n.高山植物 | |
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precariously
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adv.不安全地;危险地;碰机会地;不稳定地 | |
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quaint
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adj.古雅的,离奇有趣的,奇怪的 | |
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majestic
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adj.雄伟的,壮丽的,庄严的,威严的,崇高的 | |
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champagne
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n.香槟酒;微黄色 | |
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bungalows
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n.平房( bungalow的名词复数 );单层小屋,多于一层的小屋 | |
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cistern
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n.贮水池 | |
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Buddhism
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n.佛教(教义) | |
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savages
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未开化的人,野蛮人( savage的名词复数 ) | |
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filthy
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adj.卑劣的;恶劣的,肮脏的 | |
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aroma
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n.香气,芬芳,芳香 | |
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guardian
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n.监护人;守卫者,保护者 | |
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deity
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n.神,神性;被奉若神明的人(或物) | |
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crater
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n.火山口,弹坑 | |
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cultivation
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n.耕作,培养,栽培(法),养成 | |
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meager
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adj.缺乏的,不足的,瘦的 | |
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acting
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n.演戏,行为,假装;adj.代理的,临时的,演出用的 | |
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outfit
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n.(为特殊用途的)全套装备,全套服装 | |
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funnel
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n.漏斗;烟囱;v.汇集 | |
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narcotic
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n.麻醉药,镇静剂;adj.麻醉的,催眠的 | |
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utilized
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v.利用,使用( utilize的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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58
thereby
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adv.因此,从而 | |
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fronds
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n.蕨类或棕榈类植物的叶子( frond的名词复数 ) | |
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consistency
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n.一贯性,前后一致,稳定性;(液体的)浓度 | |
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61
grudge
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n.不满,怨恨,妒嫉;vt.勉强给,不情愿做 | |
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inhaled
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v.吸入( inhale的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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63
panorama
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n.全景,全景画,全景摄影,全景照片[装置] | |
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64
ponies
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矮种马,小型马( pony的名词复数 ); £25 25 英镑 | |
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hardy
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adj.勇敢的,果断的,吃苦的;耐寒的 | |
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rim
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n.(圆物的)边,轮缘;边界 | |
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literally
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adv.照字面意义,逐字地;确实 | |
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pony
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adj.小型的;n.小马 | |
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cavalry
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n.骑兵;轻装甲部队 | |
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70
blindfolded
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v.(尤指用布)挡住(某人)的视线( blindfold的过去式 );蒙住(某人)的眼睛;使不理解;蒙骗 | |
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71
grandeur
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n.伟大,崇高,宏伟,庄严,豪华 | |
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72
rein
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n.疆绳,统治,支配;vt.以僵绳控制,统治 | |
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sublime
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adj.崇高的,伟大的;极度的,不顾后果的 | |
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excavation
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n.挖掘,发掘;被挖掘之地 | |
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titanic
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adj.巨人的,庞大的,强大的 | |
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hemmed
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缝…的褶边( hem的过去式和过去分词 ); 包围 | |
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perpendicular
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adj.垂直的,直立的;n.垂直线,垂直的位置 | |
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wafted
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v.吹送,飘送,(使)浮动( waft的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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mighty
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adj.强有力的;巨大的 | |
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slashed
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v.挥砍( slash的过去式和过去分词 );鞭打;割破;削减 | |
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81
clumps
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n.(树、灌木、植物等的)丛、簇( clump的名词复数 );(土、泥等)团;块;笨重的脚步声v.(树、灌木、植物等的)丛、簇( clump的第三人称单数 );(土、泥等)团;块;笨重的脚步声 | |
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stunted
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adj.矮小的;发育迟缓的 | |
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solitude
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n. 孤独; 独居,荒僻之地,幽静的地方 | |
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lengthening
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(时间或空间)延长,伸长( lengthen的现在分词 ); 加长 | |
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brass
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n.黄铜;黄铜器,铜管乐器 | |
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flicker
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vi./n.闪烁,摇曳,闪现 | |
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87
cone
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n.圆锥体,圆锥形东西,球果 | |
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88
corrugated
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adj.波纹的;缩成皱纹的;波纹面的;波纹状的v.(使某物)起皱褶(corrugate的过去式和过去分词) | |
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rivulets
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n.小河,小溪( rivulet的名词复数 ) | |
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lava
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n.熔岩,火山岩 | |
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belching
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n. 喷出,打嗝 动词belch的现在分词形式 | |
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belch
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v.打嗝,喷出 | |
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rumble
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n.隆隆声;吵嚷;v.隆隆响;低沉地说 | |
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scramble
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v.爬行,攀爬,杂乱蔓延,碎片,片段,废料 | |
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brink
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n.(悬崖、河流等的)边缘,边沿 | |
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accomplished
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adj.有才艺的;有造诣的;达到了的 | |
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fumes
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n.(强烈而刺激的)气味,气体 | |
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veneration
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n.尊敬,崇拜 | |
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huddles
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(尤指杂乱地)挤在一起的人(或物品、建筑)( huddle的名词复数 ); (美式足球)队员靠拢(磋商战术) | |
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gasping
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adj. 气喘的, 痉挛的 动词gasp的现在分词 | |
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groaning
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adj. 呜咽的, 呻吟的 动词groan的现在分词形式 | |
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102
solitudes
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n.独居( solitude的名词复数 );孤独;荒僻的地方;人迹罕至的地方 | |
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teeming
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adj.丰富的v.充满( teem的现在分词 );到处都是;(指水、雨等)暴降;倾注 | |
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metropolis
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n.首府;大城市 | |
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refreshing
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adj.使精神振作的,使人清爽的,使人喜欢的 | |
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belongings
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n.私人物品,私人财物 | |
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malaria
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n.疟疾 | |
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108
enervated
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adj.衰弱的,无力的v.使衰弱,使失去活力( enervate的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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bustling
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adj.喧闹的 | |
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phlegmatic
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adj.冷静的,冷淡的,冷漠的,无活力的 | |
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siesta
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n.午睡 | |
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112
curb
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n.场外证券市场,场外交易;vt.制止,抑制 | |
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diminutive
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adj.小巧可爱的,小的 | |
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warehouses
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仓库,货栈( warehouse的名词复数 ) | |
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machinery
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n.(总称)机械,机器;机构 | |
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luxurious
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adj.精美而昂贵的;豪华的 | |
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acumen
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n.敏锐,聪明 | |
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industrious
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adj.勤劳的,刻苦的,奋发的 | |
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chambers
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n.房间( chamber的名词复数 );(议会的)议院;卧室;会议厅 | |
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120
indigo
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n.靛青,靛蓝 | |
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121
plantations
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n.种植园,大农场( plantation的名词复数 ) | |
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122
decided
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adj.决定了的,坚决的;明显的,明确的 | |
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123
gauge
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v.精确计量;估计;n.标准度量;计量器 | |
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124
compartments
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n.间隔( compartment的名词复数 );(列车车厢的)隔间;(家具或设备等的)分隔间;隔层 | |
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125
discomfort
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n.不舒服,不安,难过,困难,不方便 | |
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126
necessitates
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使…成为必要,需要( necessitate的第三人称单数 ) | |
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127
massage
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n.按摩,揉;vt.按摩,揉,美化,奉承,篡改数据 | |
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128
torrents
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n.倾注;奔流( torrent的名词复数 );急流;爆发;连续不断 | |
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129
mattresses
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褥垫,床垫( mattress的名词复数 ) | |
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130
cylindrical
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adj.圆筒形的 | |
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131
bolster
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n.枕垫;v.支持,鼓励 | |
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132
touching
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adj.动人的,使人感伤的 | |
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133
synonym
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n.同义词,换喻词 | |
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134
astonishment
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n.惊奇,惊异 | |
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135
dubious
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adj.怀疑的,无把握的;有问题的,靠不住的 | |
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136
syrup
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n.糖浆,糖水 | |
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137
acorns
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n.橡子,栎实( acorn的名词复数 ) | |
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138
blight
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n.枯萎病;造成破坏的因素;vt.破坏,摧残 | |
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139
leisurely
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adj.悠闲的;从容的,慢慢的 | |
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140
dwelling
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n.住宅,住所,寓所 | |
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141
mansions
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n.宅第,公馆,大厦( mansion的名词复数 ) | |
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142
retinues
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n.一批随员( retinue的名词复数 ) | |
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143
authorized
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a.委任的,许可的 | |
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144
laborers
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n.体力劳动者,工人( laborer的名词复数 );(熟练工人的)辅助工 | |
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145
gratuitous
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adj.无偿的,免费的;无缘无故的,不必要的 | |
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146
predilections
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n.偏爱,偏好,嗜好( predilection的名词复数 ) | |
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147
temperament
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n.气质,性格,性情 | |
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148
pajamas
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n.睡衣裤 | |
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149
slippers
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n. 拖鞋 | |
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150
amass
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vt.积累,积聚 | |
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151
decadent
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adj.颓废的,衰落的,堕落的 | |
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152
gambling
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n.赌博;投机 | |
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153
utterly
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adv.完全地,绝对地 | |
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154
virility
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n.雄劲,丈夫气 | |
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155
followers
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追随者( follower的名词复数 ); 用户; 契据的附面; 从动件 | |
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156
compulsory
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n.强制的,必修的;规定的,义务的 | |
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157
systematic
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adj.有系统的,有计划的,有方法的 | |
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158
injustice
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n.非正义,不公正,不公平,侵犯(别人的)权利 | |
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159
administrators
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n.管理者( administrator的名词复数 );有管理(或行政)才能的人;(由遗嘱检验法庭指定的)遗产管理人;奉派暂管主教教区的牧师 | |
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160
insular
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adj.岛屿的,心胸狭窄的 | |
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161
picturesque
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adj.美丽如画的,(语言)生动的,绘声绘色的 | |
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162
delightful
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adj.令人高兴的,使人快乐的 | |
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163
lighting
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n.照明,光线的明暗,舞台灯光 | |
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164
sanitary
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adj.卫生方面的,卫生的,清洁的,卫生的 | |
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165
sufficiently
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adv.足够地,充分地 | |
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166
illuminated
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adj.被照明的;受启迪的 | |
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167
ascending
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adj.上升的,向上的 | |
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168
lesser
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adj.次要的,较小的;adv.较小地,较少地 | |
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169
enchanting
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a.讨人喜欢的 | |
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170
conspicuously
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ad.明显地,惹人注目地 | |
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171
villas
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别墅,公馆( villa的名词复数 ); (城郊)住宅 | |
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172
retired
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adj.隐退的,退休的,退役的 | |
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173
fragrant
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adj.芬香的,馥郁的,愉快的 | |
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174
situated
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adj.坐落在...的,处于某种境地的 | |
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175
gracefully
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ad.大大方方地;优美地 | |
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176
colonnaded
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adj.有列柱的,有柱廊的 | |
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177
manor
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n.庄园,领地 | |
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178
foliage
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n.叶子,树叶,簇叶 | |
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179
dwellings
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n.住处,处所( dwelling的名词复数 ) | |
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180
improper
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adj.不适当的,不合适的,不正确的,不合礼仪的 | |
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181
recording
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n.录音,记录 | |
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182
censors
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删剪(书籍、电影等中被认为犯忌、违反道德或政治上危险的内容)( censor的第三人称单数 ) | |
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183
botanist
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n.植物学家 | |
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184
specimens
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n.样品( specimen的名词复数 );范例;(化验的)抽样;某种类型的人 | |
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185
rattan
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n.藤条,藤杖 | |
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186
ornamental
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adj.装饰的;作装饰用的;n.装饰品;观赏植物 | |
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187
utilitarian
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adj.实用的,功利的 | |
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188
scarlet
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n.深红色,绯红色,红衣;adj.绯红色的 | |
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189
crimson
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n./adj.深(绯)红色(的);vi.脸变绯红色 | |
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190
withering
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使人畏缩的,使人害羞的,使人难堪的 | |
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191
porcelains
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n.瓷,瓷器( porcelain的名词复数 ) | |
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192
fiber
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n.纤维,纤维质 | |
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193
starch
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n.淀粉;vt.给...上浆 | |
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194
nave
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n.教堂的中部;本堂 | |
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195
raffles
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n.抽彩售物( raffle的名词复数 )v.以抽彩方式售(物)( raffle的第三人称单数 ) | |
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196
swampy
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adj.沼泽的,湿地的 | |
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197
boroughs
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(尤指大伦敦的)行政区( borough的名词复数 ); 议会中有代表的市镇 | |
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198
residential
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adj.提供住宿的;居住的;住宅的 | |
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199
relic
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n.神圣的遗物,遗迹,纪念物 | |
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200
relics
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[pl.]n.遗物,遗迹,遗产;遗体,尸骸 | |
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201
delightfully
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大喜,欣然 | |
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202
dominant
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adj.支配的,统治的;占优势的;显性的;n.主因,要素,主要的人(或物);显性基因 | |
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203
schooling
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n.教育;正规学校教育 | |
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204
founders
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n.创始人( founder的名词复数 ) | |
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205
crafty
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adj.狡猾的,诡诈的 | |
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206
stipulation
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n.契约,规定,条文;条款说明 | |
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207
promptly
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adv.及时地,敏捷地 | |
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208
Vogue
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n.时髦,时尚;adj.流行的 | |
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209
Portuguese
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n.葡萄牙人;葡萄牙语 | |
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210
whitewash
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v.粉刷,掩饰;n.石灰水,粉刷,掩饰 | |
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211
skull
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n.头骨;颅骨 | |
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212
inscription
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n.(尤指石块上的)刻印文字,铭文,碑文 | |
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213
detested
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v.憎恶,嫌恶,痛恨( detest的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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214
traitor
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n.叛徒,卖国贼 | |
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215
agitator
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n.鼓动者;搅拌器 | |
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216
conspired
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密谋( conspire的过去式和过去分词 ); 搞阴谋; (事件等)巧合; 共同导致 | |
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217
disaffected
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adj.(政治上)不满的,叛离的 | |
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218
massacre
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n.残杀,大屠杀;v.残杀,集体屠杀 | |
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219
imperative
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n.命令,需要;规则;祈使语气;adj.强制的;紧急的 | |
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220
colonists
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n.殖民地开拓者,移民,殖民地居民( colonist的名词复数 ) | |
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221
dread
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vt.担忧,忧虑;惧怕,不敢;n.担忧,畏惧 | |
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222
impaled
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钉在尖桩上( impale的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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223
reminder
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n.提醒物,纪念品;暗示,提示 | |
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