EARLY in the afternoon we left Spalato, and steaming away from the coast we stood out to sea, making for Lissa, a large island of the Adriatic, celebrated4 in the days of the first Napoleon for the stout5 sea fight in which, on the 13th of March 1811, Captain Hoste, (afterwards Sir William Hoste), with four ships mounting 156 guns, utterly6 defeated the French fleet of twenty-seven sail, mounting 284, 108 having on board 500 troops. In 1808 we occupied Lissa, and having established free trade and other institutions, the island improved so much under our administration that in less than three years from the time we occupied it the population had risen to 12,000 inhabitants (at present it has scarcely 5000).
The French were naturally sorely tried by the advantageous7 position we occupied in front of their coast, and the very good use we made of our opportunities of pushing our commerce in every direction. They determined8 therefore on expelling us from Lissa and the Adriatic, as from the smallness of our armament there they had no doubt as to their success. Swiftly and silently they fitted out an expedition at Ancona, which under the command of the brave Captain Dubourdieu arrived at Lissa on the 13th March, 1811. It consisted of four 44 gun frigates9, ten 32 gun corvettes, one 16 gun brig, a schooner10, ten gun-boats, and a xebeque, in all 284 guns.
The British Squadron consisted of only four ships, the 'Amphion,' 'Active,' 'Cerberus,' and 'Volage,' mounting but 156 guns all told, but it 109 was commanded and manned by British seamen11! the result could not be doubted, and although Dubourdieu fought like a gallant12 sailor as he was, the victory remained with us. Our losses were severe, and in a quiet retired13 little nook, on the left hand as one enters the land-locked harbour of Lissa, are buried those who fell in that engagement; while on the right hand side is another burial place, where under a handsome sepulchral14 monument lie the remains15 of those Austrians who fell in the latest naval engagement at Lissa when a few years ago the Italian Navy, the pet toy, an expensive one by the by, of King Victor Emmanuel, was all but annihilated16 by the Austrians under Admiral Tegethoff.
At Lissa we remained a very short time, so short that I had not even time to go ashore17, though I should have very much liked to visit the burial place of those brave English sailors who fell in the naval action of 1811. The business of the steamer, which seemed principally to consist in shipping18 a bridal party, was soon concluded, and after a very short stay we were again under full steam for Lesina, another island of the same 110 archipelago, but much smaller and closer in to the Dalmatian coast.
The bridal party we had taken on board consisted of the bride and bridegroom, both very plain and very much, even tawdrily over-dressed in Parisian costume, and with remarkably20 dirty hands and otherwise unwashed appearance. A bishop21 with a couple of priests in attendance on his reverence22, and half-a-dozen relations and friends of the newly-married couple, who seemed principally to study not to take any notice of each other but went about making themselves generally agreeable.
The groom19 most kindly23 insisted on my smoking his cigars (and villainously bad they were, but had I declined them he would have been awfully24 offended) and drinking his maraschino, which fortunately was as good as his cigars were bad, whilst the bride, luckily for me, persistently25 avoided me, probably from fear of heretical contamination, and exclusively devoted26 her attentions to the Bishop and his priests.
After a few hours steaming through the smoothest and bluest of seas, in full view of the grand mountains 111 of Dalmatia, in due time we arrived at Lesina a little before sunset. This island is said to derive27 its name from being somewhat shaped like an awl28, in Italian lesina. It is just a thin strip of land forty-two miles long, blunt at one end (which represents the handle) and sharp at the other. I doubt, however, the correctness of its etymology29, and am inclined to think that its present name is more probably derived30 from its ancient one of "Pharos Insula," often reduced by elision into simply "Insula;" now the anagram of "Insula" is "Lusina," a word much more in harmony with the genius of the Italian language, and from Lusina to Lesina is but a shade. I think I am fortified31 in this etymology by the fact of at least two other instances in the Adriatic of this identical transposition of letters, and the conversion32 of Insula to Lusina, in the names of two islands near the Quarnero, named respectively Lussin Grande and Lussin Piccolo, which are evidently the anagram of Insula Grande and Insula Piccola.
We arrived just in time to enjoy the effect of the setting sun upon that rocky landscape and the 112 exquisitely33 pretty town at the foot of the mountain, and sufficiently34 early to be able to take a rapid sketch35 just as the sun was beginning to sink behind the tower which rises to the west of the town. The fort behind and above the town was still in full sunlight, as was also the more distant fortress of San Nicolo, brought forcibly into relief by a bank of dark purple clouds which were massed behind it. Down below, close to the water's edge, lay the town bathed in a flood of amber36 light, partly caused by the reflection of the golden sunset beyond, and partly by the colouring of the town itself, the houses of which are all painted with the warmest tints37.
In the middle of the town, close to the water's edge, are the "Loggie" or Portico38, an elegant building, which in the olden times of Venetian supremacy39 was used by the merchants as an exchange to transact40 business in, as well as a hall of justice for the administration of the laws, and at the back a room is still shown where criminals and suspected persons underwent the question by torture.
Immediately behind and above the Loggie rises 113 Fort Spagnuolo, built by Charles V, connected with the town below by two long crenelated walls, enclosing in front a considerable space planted thick with colossal41 aloes (Agave Americana), which in case of assault would, in olden times, have offered a very considerable impediment to the advance of troops.
The island of Lesina is barren, and its commerce very insignificant42; it grows, however, an immense quantity of rosemary, from which is distilled43 a celebrated essential oil Oleum Anthos, and the Aqua Regia, or rosemary water, which are both largely exported.
It was dark when we left; shaping our way for Curzola where we arrived about midnight. My friend, the Capuchin, who sat chatting with me till we arrived there, regretted I could not see it by daylight, as contrary to the other islands, which are conspicuous44 for their barrenness, Curzola is well wooded, and is celebrated for the size and magnificence of its pine trees.
We did not make any long delay here, and were soon threading our course again between the 114 islands and the mainland in the direction of Ragusa, but I know nothing about them. The Monk45 wished me good-night and went to his cabin, when again I took my usual place on deck, and was soon as comfortably asleep on that oaken plank46 as if I had been in the most luxurious47 bed in England.
I was awakened48 from my night's sleep by my friend the Capuchin monk, who had been my travelling companion all the way from Trieste.
"Get up, my lazy friend," said he, touching49 me with his foot. "We shall soon be entering the port of Gravosa; and there," stretching, out his arm towards the Dalmatian coast, "is the island of Lachroma, once the property of the unfortunate Emperor Maximilian of Mexico, and in ancient times a harbour of refuge to your great King Richard, C?ur-de-Lion."
Hard though my bed had been, for nothing but my doubled up old rug had interposed between myself and the deck, I had slept profoundly, "à la belle50 étoile," and far more comfortably than if I had condescended51 to take my place in the dirty and stuffy52 camerino down below, where all the other 115 passengers, including my friend the Capuchin and his lay-brother, fearing bad smells, fleas53, and other small game much less than the delicious night-air of the balmy Adriatic, had carefully stowed themselves away the previous night. I was up in an instant, and I shall not easily forget the sight that greeted my eyes from the deck of the little 'San Carlo.'
We were about three miles from the shore; the sun, though high above the horizon, had not yet acquired sufficient force to destroy the freshness of the morning breeze which delicately rippled54 the surface of the sea, making it in the sunshine like a sheet of frosted gold, while in the shade it was like liquid sapphire55. On my left rose the wild, rocky cliffs of Dalmatia, rendered still more desolate-looking by the almost total absence of vegetation; while in front and on my right, stretching away to the extreme verge56 of the horizon, were the sparkling waters of the Adriatic, thickly studded with countless57 islets, to the nearest of which, Lachroma, the Monk had drawn58 my attention.
"It is now many years," said the Capuchin, 116 "since your great crusading King found a refuge in that island."
"I was not aware that King Richard was shipwrecked here," said I. "I knew that he met with a terrific storm in this sea on his return from Palestine, but I always imagined he had been wrecked61 near the top of the Adriatic, on the coast of Istria, in the neighbourhood of Aquileia."
"Yes," replied the Monk, "it is not generally known that it was on the rocks of Lachroma that C?ur-de-Lion was cast away; and it is strange how this error should have crept into history and held its ground and place in every standard work, including your own invaluable62 Cyclop?dias. But we have ample proofs of the truth of what I am telling you, and documentary evidence to establish the accuracy of my assertion; for your King, in gratitude64 to Divine Providence65 for delivering him from shipwreck59, vowed67 to build a church in honour of the Blessed Virgin68, on whatever land he should first set foot, and having safely landed at Lachroma, he proceeded to make good his vow66 by committing to the abbot and monks69 of a 117 Benedictine monastery70, which already existed on the island, the task of building this church, to defray the expenses of which the good King devoted no less than 100,000 nummi argentei, which sum he borrowed from his British lieges. But the Rettore of Ragusa (so the President of that ancient Republic was styled), having heard of King Richard's shipwreck opposite his city, went to visit him in state, with all the magistrates71 and councillors of the Republic, and invited him to Ragusa, where he was received with every demonstration72 of respect, and all the hospitality and attention due to so distinguished73 a guest.
King Richard, pleased at the reception given him by the Republicans, and charmed by the attractive graces of the Ragusan ladies, rested there for some time; and then at the suggestion of these fair ones and the urgent entreaties74 of the authorities, who promised to obtain a dispensation for him from the Pope, he altered the terms of his donation, and founded in Ragusa itself the church to the Blessed Virgin which he had originally vowed on the island of Lachroma; on the condition, however, that the Benedictine Abbot of Lachroma, assisted by the 118 monks of his convent, should have the privilege and the right to celebrate mass in this church in Ragusa every year on the day of the feast of the Purification. The gift of Richard C?ur-de-Lion having been further increased by donations from the inhabitants, this votive church grew into that celebrated cathedral which for so many years held the first rank among all the churches of Illyria.[5] 119 At last, however, came one fatal morning, the 6th of April, 1667, when Ragusa was all but annihilated by an earthquake. In a few moments all the principal edifices75 in the town were laid low, including the Cathedral of King Richard, and upwards76 of six thousand inhabitants, more than one-fifth of the entire population were buried in the ruins. There was not a family in the whole city which had not one or more to mourn for. Several of my ancestors perished, and among others a lineal ancestor of my mother, Simone Ghetaldi, then Rettore of the Republic; he and several senators were assembled in the Council Chamber77, and about to receive the visit of a Dutch Embassy (which had stopped at Ragusa on its way to Constantinople, to which court it was accredited) when they were all engulphed; not one escaped, and it is supposed that at that spot the earth must have opened and closed over them again. The Archbishop barely escaped with his life by jumping out of a window as the floors of his palace were giving way beneath him, and more than nine-tenths of the clergy78 perished. 120 We preserve in our family a manuscript which gives an accurate account of this terrible catastrophe79; as a youngster, I was often made to copy it out, and I therefore know it almost off by heart. It tells how the morning of the 6th of April, 1667, broke calm and bright, and that the atmosphere was still and serene80, without anything to indicate the approaching danger, when suddenly, without any premonitory sound, about two hours after sunrise, while most of the inhabitants were still in their houses, or in the churches hearing early mass, the earth shook so violently that in a few minutes the whole town was in ruins, with the exception of the fortress, and a few other buildings, the walls of which were enormously thick. In addition to the destruction caused by falling houses, large rocks came toppling down, detached from the mountain, which, as you see, apparently81 overhangs the city. This added greatly to the terror and devastation82. So far as we know there was but one shock, and it lasted only a few seconds; but no where and at no time was so much damage done thus instantaneously.
"Many harrowing scenes were recounted, but 121 perhaps the most terrible of all was that of a school of boys which was swallowed up beneath the ruins. All the unfortunate lads perished, most of them by a miserable83 lingering death, and for days their moans and cries for help and water could be heard by their distracted friends, without the possibility of giving them any relief. One would have thought this a sufficient visitation for poor Ragusa, but calamities84 never come singly. A fire broke out on the same day, and towards evening a strong wind arose and fanned the flames, thus increasing the conflagration beyond the power of control. Night came on, and the whole side of the mountains was illuminated85 by the flames of the burning city. Then the wild mountaineers, the Morlacchi, came down in swarms86 to pilfer87 and snatch whatever they could from the universal wreck60. The scenes then enacted88 defied all powers of description. The fires were burning with exceptional brightness and fury, in consequence of the conflagration having reached the stores of oil, tallow and tar63 accumulated in the Arsenal89 and elsewhere. Groups of Morlacchi, undeterred by the crumbling90 walls and the scorching91 rafters, could be seen flitting about among ruins 122 regardless of the danger! Occasionally some such group having ventured too far, would disappear with a fearful scream into some yawning gulf92; while in another spot two parties of the same plunderers might be seen in deadly conflict, fighting with their long straight knives over their unlawful booty. It was a fearful night.
"But all this is ancient history; there is another tragic93 episode connected with Lachroma. Another calamity94 is brought to our minds when we look upon its shores. Poor Prince Maximilian!—alas95! alas! he was a good and kind man,—and that noble unfortunate Princess Charlotte! I had the honour of being in their company more than once, both in Europe and Mexico; they were so good, so affable, so happy, till in an evil hour they allowed themselves to be led away by ambition. The Prince seemed all along to have had a presentiment96 of evil. I was told by one who was present, that nothing could be more melancholy97 than his departure from Miramar, and the leave-taking when he was waited on by a deputation from Trieste was the most painful scene he ever witnessed. The Prince was completely overcome, and fairly broke 123 down on this occasion. After his assassination98 the island was sold, and now I hear it is for sale again."
The good old Monk was silent for a few minutes, and then gently putting his hand on my shoulder, he said,
"You are English, non è vero? You are not American? I would not say a hurtful word to mortal, but I cannot help thinking that the President of the United States was nearly as much to blame as the Mexican savage99 for the murder of Maximilian; one word from the United States' President would have saved the Emperor's life."
"But what about the French Emperor?" I asked; "he who got the poor Prince into the scrape, and then left him to get out of it as best he could?"
"Ah; true—true," repeated the Monk. "e quell'altro birbaccione di Bazaine! Ah! Providence will overtake them all. But look, see how beautiful Ragusa is, how picturesque100! Although I am only a poor Capuchin monk, I feel proud of my native city—che mi son Raguséo!" he exclaimed, breaking 124 out into his native Venetian dialect. "Though most of my life has been spent far away in foreign missions, I still cling with fondness to my native shores, and feel thankful, most thankful," he repeated, bending his head, "that it has pleased His Holiness and our General to order me back here again at last."
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1
naval
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| adj.海军的，军舰的，船的 | |
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fortress
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| n.堡垒，防御工事 | |
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conflagration
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| n.建筑物或森林大火 | |
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celebrated
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| adj.有名的，声誉卓著的 | |
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utterly
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| adv.完全地，绝对地 | |
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advantageous
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| adj.有利的；有帮助的 | |
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determined
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| adj.坚定的；有决心的 | |
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frigates
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| n.快速军舰( frigate的名词复数 ) | |
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schooner
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| n.纵帆船 | |
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seamen
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| n.海员 | |
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gallant
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| adj.英勇的，豪侠的；(向女人)献殷勤的 | |
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retired
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| adj.隐退的，退休的，退役的 | |
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sepulchral
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| adj.坟墓的，阴深的 | |
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remains
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| n.剩余物，残留物；遗体，遗迹 | |
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annihilated
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| v.（彻底）消灭( annihilate的过去式和过去分词 )；使无效；废止；彻底击溃 | |
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ashore
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| adv.在(向)岸上，上岸 | |
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shipping
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| n.船运（发货，运输，乘船） | |
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groom
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| vt.给（马、狗等）梳毛，照料，使...整洁 | |
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remarkably
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| ad.不同寻常地，相当地 | |
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bishop
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| n.主教，（国际象棋）象 | |
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reverence
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| n.敬畏，尊敬，尊严；Reverence:对某些基督教神职人员的尊称；v.尊敬，敬畏，崇敬 | |
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kindly
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| adj.和蔼的，温和的，爽快的；adv.温和地，亲切地 | |
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awfully
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| adv.可怕地，非常地，极端地 | |
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persistently
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| ad.坚持地；固执地 | |
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devoted
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| adj.忠诚的，忠实的，热心的，献身于...的 | |
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derive
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| v.取得；导出；引申；来自；源自；出自 | |
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awl
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| n.尖钻 | |
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etymology
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| n.语源；字源学 | |
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derived
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| vi.起源；由来；衍生；导出v.得到( derive的过去式和过去分词 )；（从…中）得到获得；源于；（从…中）提取 | |
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fortified
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| adj. 加强的 | |
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conversion
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| n.转化，转换，转变 | |
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exquisitely
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| adv.精致地；强烈地；剧烈地；异常地 | |
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sufficiently
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| adv.足够地，充分地 | |
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sketch
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| n.草图；梗概；素描；v.素描；概述 | |
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amber
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| n.琥珀；琥珀色；adj.琥珀制的 | |
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tints
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| 色彩( tint的名词复数 )； 带白的颜色； （淡色）染发剂； 痕迹 | |
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portico
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| n.柱廊，门廊 | |
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supremacy
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| n.至上；至高权力 | |
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transact
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| v.处理；做交易；谈判 | |
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colossal
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| adj.异常的，庞大的 | |
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insignificant
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| adj.无关紧要的，可忽略的，无意义的 | |
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distilled
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| adj.由蒸馏得来的v.蒸馏( distil的过去式和过去分词 )；从…提取精华 | |
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conspicuous
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| adj.明眼的，惹人注目的；炫耀的，摆阔气的 | |
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monk
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| n.和尚，僧侣，修道士 | |
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plank
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| n.板条，木板，政策要点，政纲条目 | |
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luxurious
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| adj.精美而昂贵的；豪华的 | |
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awakened
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| v.（使）醒( awaken的过去式和过去分词 )；（使）觉醒；弄醒；（使）意识到 | |
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touching
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| adj.动人的，使人感伤的 | |
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belle
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| n.靓女 | |
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condescended
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| 屈尊，俯就( condescend的过去式和过去分词 )； 故意表示和蔼可亲 | |
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stuffy
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| adj.不透气的，闷热的 | |
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fleas
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| n.跳蚤( flea的名词复数 )；爱财如命；没好气地（拒绝某人的要求） | |
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rippled
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| 使泛起涟漪（ripple的过去式与过去分词形式） | |
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sapphire
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| n.青玉，蓝宝石；adj.天蓝色的 | |
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56
verge
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| n.边，边缘；v.接近，濒临 | |
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countless
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| adj.无数的，多得不计其数的 | |
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drawn
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| v.拖，拉，拔出；adj.憔悴的，紧张的 | |
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shipwreck
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| n.船舶失事，海难 | |
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wreck
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| n.失事，遇难；沉船；vt.(船等)失事，遇难 | |
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61
wrecked
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| adj.失事的，遇难的 | |
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62
invaluable
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| adj.无价的，非常宝贵的，极为贵重的 | |
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tar
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| n.柏油，焦油；vt.涂或浇柏油/焦油于 | |
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64
gratitude
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| adj.感激，感谢 | |
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providence
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| n.深谋远虑，天道，天意；远见；节约；上帝 | |
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vow
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| n.誓(言)，誓约；v.起誓，立誓 | |
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vowed
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| 起誓，发誓（vow的过去式与过去分词形式） | |
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virgin
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| n.处女，未婚女子；adj.未经使用的；未经开发的 | |
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monks
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| n.修道士，僧侣( monk的名词复数 ) | |
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monastery
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| n.修道院，僧院，寺院 | |
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magistrates
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| 地方法官，治安官( magistrate的名词复数 ) | |
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demonstration
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| n.表明，示范，论证，示威 | |
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distinguished
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| adj.卓越的，杰出的，著名的 | |
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entreaties
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| n.恳求，乞求( entreaty的名词复数 ) | |
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edifices
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| n.大建筑物( edifice的名词复数 ) | |
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upwards
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| adv.向上，在更高处...以上 | |
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chamber
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| n.房间，寝室；会议厅；议院；会所 | |
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clergy
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| n.[总称]牧师，神职人员 | |
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catastrophe
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| n.大灾难，大祸 | |
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serene
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| adj. 安详的，宁静的，平静的 | |
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apparently
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| adv.显然地；表面上，似乎 | |
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82
devastation
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| n.毁坏；荒废；极度震惊或悲伤 | |
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83
miserable
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| adj.悲惨的，痛苦的；可怜的，糟糕的 | |
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84
calamities
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| n.灾祸，灾难( calamity的名词复数 )；不幸之事 | |
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85
illuminated
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| adj.被照明的；受启迪的 | |
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swarms
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| 蜂群，一大群( swarm的名词复数 ) | |
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pilfer
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| v.盗，偷，窃 | |
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enacted
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| 制定（法律），通过（法案）( enact的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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89
arsenal
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| n.兵工厂，军械库 | |
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crumbling
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| adj.摇摇欲坠的 | |
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scorching
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| adj. 灼热的 | |
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gulf
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| n.海湾；深渊，鸿沟；分歧，隔阂 | |
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tragic
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| adj.悲剧的，悲剧性的，悲惨的 | |
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calamity
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| n.灾害，祸患，不幸事件 | |
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95
alas
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| int.唉(表示悲伤、忧愁、恐惧等) | |
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presentiment
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| n.预感，预觉 | |
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97
melancholy
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| n.忧郁，愁思；adj.令人感伤（沮丧）的，忧郁的 | |
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assassination
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| n.暗杀；暗杀事件 | |
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savage
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| adj.野蛮的；凶恶的，残暴的；n.未开化的人 | |
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100
picturesque
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| adj.美丽如画的，（语言）生动的，绘声绘色的 | |
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