TRULY very little is known about Montenegro and its mountaineers, and that little is very incorrect. They have been generally represented as wild, savage3, bloodthirsty, thieving scoundrels, closely allied4 to Italian brigands5 and Greek palikari—if anything, worse than either. Fond of fighting for fighting's sake, and when not engaged in that amiable6 recreation, spending their time in 249 strutting7 about in their fine clothes, peacocking in the sunshine, while those too poor to have fine trappings whiled away the weary hours and forgot their fleas8 and their sorrows in the tones of their national guzla, while the women were left to do all the labour in the fields.
Such was certainly not my impression. The part of Montenegro through which I travelled, though sterile9 and barren to a degree, was a wonderful specimen10 of what man could do when driven to it. Every little nook, where the least bit of soil could be found, among that wilderness11 of rocks where stones had rained from Heaven, was carefully taken advantage of; the rocks adjoining these little nooks were often removed by the most laborious13 exertions14, and in some instances earth was scraped up here and there, and carried in small baskets to these spots, in order to increase their depth of soil. I saw clearings of so small a size as barely to admit of one potatoe plant or three of maize15, and little fields not one yard in diameter!
Hard at work, cultivating the soil, I saw not only women but plenty of sturdy mountaineers. 250 At Niegosh I observed one of the Petrovichs, the handsome young fellow who entertained me on my way to Cettigne, superintending himself a number of men who were working in a field near his house; and the only difference I could observe between them and our own labourers was that they were all fully12 armed, although employed at the peaceful occupation of agriculture. They have not yet turned their yataghans into spades and reaping hooks, but they have done the next best thing by keeping the first at ease while energetically plying16 the others.
I have seen the Montenegrins in their own valleys and mountain fastnesses, and I utterly17 deny the charges brought against them. They are not lazy—leaving all the hard work to their women—that is utterly false, and the best proof I perhaps can give, lies in the self-asserting fact of the toiling19 colony of three thousand Montenegrin Facchini at Constantinople, well known as about the most hard-working and honest labouring men in that capital. It is true that they allow the women to do much of the heavy agricultural work, and carry heavy loads up and down the mountains; 251 but it must be remembered that for years past the Montenegrins, like the proscribed20 clans21 of Scotland in the last century, have been treated by their neighbours, the Turks, very little better than wild beasts. They would long ago have been exterminated22, but for their indomitable courage and constant fighting, during which period, of necessity, the agricultural duties fell entirely23 on the decrepit24 old men and the women, as all men who were at all able to carry arms were engaged in fighting—and many of the women too! It must also be remembered that in all mountainous countries the women toil18 more heavily than in the plains, and even in civilized25 Italy hear what a distinguished26 Italian, Massimo d'Azeglio, writes:
"For example, if a faggot of wood and a bunch of chickens have to be carried down to the shore from one of the villages half way up the mountain, the labour is thus distributed in the family. The wife loads herself with the faggot of wood which weighs half a hundredweight, and the husband will take the chickens which weigh a mere27 nothing." The Montenegrins are not, therefore, singularly and atrociously barbarous in this respect. 252
Considering the small extent of the Principality and its great sterility28, it is wonderful the amount of produce they are able to export, even with the disabilities under which they labour, being entirely deprived of any seaboard, though clearly entitled to one. One of the most important of their natural products, one which under favourable29 circumstances might be increased a thousandfold is "sumach," a substance largely used in tanning the more expensive kinds of leather. A small amount is exported to Holland, none comes to England, but a small parcel I brought over with me was declared by competent judges to be equal to the best Sicilian, which is considered the best of all sumachs.
They have vast forests of walnut30 trees which, under proper management and due facilities of exportation, might be rendered most productive, both as to walnut oil and timber for cabinet work. They export immense quantities of a small dried fish "scoranza," much used in the neighbouring Catholic and Greek countries during their religious feasts; and without further wearying my readers, I will simply 253 add that but for the difficulties they labour under, they could export every one of the following articles in very considerable quantities:—
Castradina (dried mutton and goat hams), honey, wax, goat and kid skins to any amount, as also martin, fox, and hare skins, together with many other substances I have forgotten.
The Prince is doing all he can to spread instruction among his people. He has established numberless schools, and as all over the Principality education is compulsory31, in another generation the man or woman unable to read and write will be a phenomenon indeed in Montenegro.
The renewed booming of the cannon32 and the ringing of the convent bells now gave us warning that the Prince was going to hear Mass, and in a few seconds I saw the whole cortège pass on foot under my window. First a squad33 of guards, then His Highness the Prince leading the beautiful Princess, immediately accompanied by the Russian Consul34 in full uniform, and then a number of 254 Voyvodes in gorgeous costumes, while another squad of body-guards brought up the rear. They walked quickly past, and in a few minutes were lost completely to sight under the buttresses35 of the old Palace. The pageant was of short duration, but it was well worth seeing, even in that land of sunshine and gorgeous costumes.
Mass over, everyone turned in for his dinner and siesta36. The Commandant of the Grahovo went to his own abode37, and I followed the general example.
In the afternoon some wonderful foot races were to be held, but not till near sunset, when the great heat of the day would be somewhat abated38. I determined39 therefore to fill up the space between the end of my siesta and the visit to the races, with a call on Monsignor Roganovich, the Metropolitan40 of Montenegro. I had brought letters of recommendation to the Archimandrite of Cettigne, and in his company I went to the monastery41 to pay my respects. We entered by the great gate, after crossing the threshing floor, and having crossed the court we ascended42 by a very rough stone staircase, which landed us in a 255 sort of primitive43 cloister44 looking on a garden, on which opened the suite45 of rooms occupied by the Metropolitan.
We were at once shown in, and had not to wait many seconds before Monsignor Roganovich made his appearance. His reception was most cordial. He took me by the hand and made me sit on the divan46 by his side, expressing his regret that he could not converse47 with me except through an interpreter, owing to his not speaking any other language than Illyrian and Russian. We got on, however, remarkably48 well, thanks to the rapidity with which the Archimandrite almost guessed what I was going to say in Italian, translating it into Illyrian with equal rapidity. Coffee, as usual, was served up, unaccompanied however by the customary pipes, as the orthodox clergy49 are forbidden to smoke.
And now as I am sipping50 my coffee, let me endeavour to describe what I saw as my eyes wandered about. The room itself was small and low, simply white-washed, with no other furniture than one small table in front of the divan, and four rush chairs of the homeliest description. 256 Around the walls were a few coloured prints of saints, and the floor was utterly uncarpeted. All this simplicity51, however, served to bring out in greater contrast and relief the portly figure of Monsignor Roganovich, as he sat on the divan in his ample cassock and gown of violet-purple silk. He was not a handsome man, strictly52 speaking, his was more a jolly countenance53 than a handsome one, still it was a face one liked to look at, with his grand black beard flowing down to his waist. He wore his hair in ample curls down his back as if it had never known the shears54, and on his head the little Montenegrin cap of black silk. On his breast glittered the star of the Montenegrin order, and round his neck a massive gold chain, from which depended a Panagia or image of the Virgin55 and Child, nearly as large as a saucer, surrounded with large diamonds.
His manners were courtly and his smile most pleasing, and he gave me the idea of one who would make an excellent companion for a little dinner party of four, and who would be more in his element on the Boulevard des Italiens at Paris, 257 than in his monastic seclusion56 at Cettigne. We conversed57 for half an hour or so when I rose to take my leave, and he gave me the Apostolic Benediction58, and embraced me on both cheeks. As we walked back to the Palace, the Archimandrite told me he took great interest in the schools, which he visited daily, examining and cross-examining the students, to see that they made good use of their time.
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1 minor | |
adj.较小(少)的,较次要的;n.辅修学科;vi.辅修 | |
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2 pageant | |
n.壮观的游行;露天历史剧 | |
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3 savage | |
adj.野蛮的;凶恶的,残暴的;n.未开化的人 | |
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4 allied | |
adj.协约国的;同盟国的 | |
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5 brigands | |
n.土匪,强盗( brigand的名词复数 ) | |
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6 amiable | |
adj.和蔼可亲的,友善的,亲切的 | |
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7 strutting | |
加固,支撑物 | |
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8 fleas | |
n.跳蚤( flea的名词复数 );爱财如命;没好气地(拒绝某人的要求) | |
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9 sterile | |
adj.不毛的,不孕的,无菌的,枯燥的,贫瘠的 | |
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10 specimen | |
n.样本,标本 | |
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11 wilderness | |
n.杳无人烟的一片陆地、水等,荒漠 | |
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12 fully | |
adv.完全地,全部地,彻底地;充分地 | |
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13 laborious | |
adj.吃力的,努力的,不流畅 | |
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14 exertions | |
n.努力( exertion的名词复数 );费力;(能力、权力等的)运用;行使 | |
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15 maize | |
n.玉米 | |
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16 plying | |
v.使用(工具)( ply的现在分词 );经常供应(食物、饮料);固定往来;经营生意 | |
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17 utterly | |
adv.完全地,绝对地 | |
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18 toil | |
vi.辛劳工作,艰难地行动;n.苦工,难事 | |
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19 toiling | |
长时间或辛苦地工作( toil的现在分词 ); 艰难缓慢地移动,跋涉 | |
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20 proscribed | |
v.正式宣布(某事物)有危险或被禁止( proscribe的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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21 clans | |
宗族( clan的名词复数 ); 氏族; 庞大的家族; 宗派 | |
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22 exterminated | |
v.消灭,根绝( exterminate的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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23 entirely | |
ad.全部地,完整地;完全地,彻底地 | |
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24 decrepit | |
adj.衰老的,破旧的 | |
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25 civilized | |
a.有教养的,文雅的 | |
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26 distinguished | |
adj.卓越的,杰出的,著名的 | |
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27 mere | |
adj.纯粹的;仅仅,只不过 | |
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28 sterility | |
n.不生育,不结果,贫瘠,消毒,无菌 | |
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29 favourable | |
adj.赞成的,称赞的,有利的,良好的,顺利的 | |
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30 walnut | |
n.胡桃,胡桃木,胡桃色,茶色 | |
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31 compulsory | |
n.强制的,必修的;规定的,义务的 | |
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32 cannon | |
n.大炮,火炮;飞机上的机关炮 | |
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33 squad | |
n.班,小队,小团体;vt.把…编成班或小组 | |
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34 consul | |
n.领事;执政官 | |
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35 buttresses | |
n.扶壁,扶垛( buttress的名词复数 )v.用扶壁支撑,加固( buttress的第三人称单数 ) | |
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36 siesta | |
n.午睡 | |
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37 abode | |
n.住处,住所 | |
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38 abated | |
减少( abate的过去式和过去分词 ); 减去; 降价; 撤消(诉讼) | |
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39 determined | |
adj.坚定的;有决心的 | |
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40 metropolitan | |
adj.大城市的,大都会的 | |
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41 monastery | |
n.修道院,僧院,寺院 | |
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42 ascended | |
v.上升,攀登( ascend的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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43 primitive | |
adj.原始的;简单的;n.原(始)人,原始事物 | |
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44 cloister | |
n.修道院;v.隐退,使与世隔绝 | |
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45 suite | |
n.一套(家具);套房;随从人员 | |
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46 divan | |
n.长沙发;(波斯或其他东方诗人的)诗集 | |
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47 converse | |
vi.谈话,谈天,闲聊;adv.相反的,相反 | |
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48 remarkably | |
ad.不同寻常地,相当地 | |
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49 clergy | |
n.[总称]牧师,神职人员 | |
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50 sipping | |
v.小口喝,呷,抿( sip的现在分词 ) | |
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51 simplicity | |
n.简单,简易;朴素;直率,单纯 | |
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52 strictly | |
adv.严厉地,严格地;严密地 | |
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53 countenance | |
n.脸色,面容;面部表情;vt.支持,赞同 | |
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54 shears | |
n.大剪刀 | |
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55 virgin | |
n.处女,未婚女子;adj.未经使用的;未经开发的 | |
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56 seclusion | |
n.隐遁,隔离 | |
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57 conversed | |
v.交谈,谈话( converse的过去式 ) | |
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58 benediction | |
n.祝福;恩赐 | |
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