THE twilight3 of Cattaro was fast merging4 into darkness when I returned with my companions to the esplanade, where my horses were ready to take me on to Budua. Our adieux were short but cordial, and in a few minutes I was cantering away in company with Signor Jackschich, who lives in a villa5 a couple of miles away from Cattaro. 281
If the tracks and paths of Montenegro are rugged6 and wild, the beautiful road we were now travelling on made ample amends7 for the discomfort8 I had endured in riding during the last few days. As we passed Signor Jackschich's villa, I insisted on his remaining there, or his courtesy would have induced him to keep me company ever so much further on; so wishing him adieu for the twentieth time, I lit my cigar, and sticking spurs into my pony9, cantered away on my road to Budua. The ride was not interesting. I started too late; I should have remembered that in those latitudes10, except at Cattaro, there is no twilight.
On leaving Cattaro the road is at first directly south, leading across the isthmus11 of the peninsula which forms the western shore of the gulf12 of that name. Having reached the sea, it continues to skirt the Adriatic, except in those places where to avoid rounding a headland it runs inland straight across the base of the promontory13.
The night was fine, and we got on famously, but whether in consequence of the good dinner, or the genial14 sensation produced by the atmosphere, 282 or the early hour I had risen in the morning, when it came to be about eleven o'clock an indescribable feeling of lassitude and intense sleepiness came over me. I would have given anything to lie down even for half-an-hour; but it was out of the question, as we were at that time crossing a sort of marsh15, and there was not a dry spot to lie down on. So I was compelled to ride on; but I suspect I dozed16, and then during those moments of extreme lassitude and prostration17, when my vital powers were standing18 at their lowest, I fear I imbibed19 some of those zymotic germs, some malarious20 molecules22, which a few days later manifested themselves by a smart attack of fever. Thanks, however, to a good constitution and a few doses of quinine, I was able to cut it short in three days, though it stuck to me for a little while longer in the shape of an indescribable sort of malaise.
At one o'clock a.m., we reached the gates of Budua, where I was met by Baron Heydeg and Signor Marco Medin. Heydeg was an officer quartered with his regiment23 at Budua, whose acquaintance I had made at Pola, and with whom 283 I had subsequently travelled. Medin was a native of Budua, who had left his country many years before, had made money in California, had married there a buxom24 Irish girl, a native of Ballinrobe, and had now returned, a rich man, to end his days among his relations in Dalmatia.
They had been waiting for me a long time, and had walked some miles on the road to Cattaro to meet me, but were beginning to think I was not going to keep my word.
We were soon seated together at a comfortable supper, and at half-past two a.m. I was finally allowed to retire to my bed, which Medin had kindly25 procured26 for me in a private house—because here, as in Cattaro, there is no hotel of any kind.
Tired and sleepy as I was, I passed but an indifferent night, for, notwithstanding that my room had two large windows overlooking the sea, and that I kept them both open, the heat was perfectly27 stifling28.
I was just thinking of going out the next morning about ten, when in walked the Baron and Signor Medin, and we at once adjourned29 for 284 breakfast at the same place where we had supped the previous night; I say place, as it was neither an inn nor a café. How shall I describe it? The following is the way we got at it, anyhow. In the main street of Budua, near to the land gate, on the left hand as you come in, you meet with five rugged stone steps, flanked by a shaky single iron railing. These lead up to a strong wooden door, which at some period, of its existence may have enjoyed the privilege of paint, but of which no trace remains31 at the present moment, not even enough to enable one to make a guess at the colour it once enjoyed.
Entering by this door, I found myself in a stuffy32, dirty hall, "a terreno" pervaded33 by a multitude of vile30 smells, one more awful than the other, but all so dovetailed and commingled34 that it was perfectly impossible to tell what the composition was. Turning sharp to the left, we mounted a steep stone staircase, at the top of which we were greeted by the same odour that had met us on entering, in which now the smell of assaf?tida and garlic clearly predominated. We found ourselves in the kitchen of the establishment, over 285 which reigned35 supreme36 a good-humoured, fat German Frau of fifty or more, assisted by two bright-eyed, sharp-looking Dalmatian lads, begrimed with dirt and shining with grease and perspiration37. The Frau piloted us through this kitchen, where the heat must have been 110°, if not more, and brought us into the dining-room, a pretty good-sized room with windows round the three sides of it, the furniture consisting solely38 of one long deal table down the middle, and a score of rush-bottomed chairs around it. At this table were seated a dozen or so of German officers demolishing39 their "early bit."
I was here received by the Frau's worse half, a portly man of sixty or thereabouts. His coat was off, but he had on instead a huge pair of silver spectacles. He at once showed me to my seat at the table, when I apologised, through the Baron, to the officers for disturbing them at their breakfast.
Notwithstanding the unpromising condition of things, the breakfast was excellent; but mine host in the shirt sleeves, with whom I kept up a running conversation in Italian, was even better. 286 An Italian by birth and education (for he was very well educated), he had rambled40 all over the Austrian dominions41 and the Turkish provinces in Europe. He had forgotten most of his native tongue without learning any other, and the jargon42 he spoke43 was something marvellous. Still, he varied44 this pot-pourri according to the nationality of those he addressed. The foundation was always Italian, but if he spoke to an Austrian the German element would predominate, while if he spoke to a Montenegrin the Slave would be in the ascendant. He was a most amusing character, and combined in himself the functions of doctor, dentist and apothecary, as well as that of keeper of a restaurant in Budua—hence the villainous combination of the odours of a scullery, a kitchen, and a pharmacy45.
In spite of his griminess and the vile odours, I had some very pleasant conversation with him. I found him very well informed, and he gave me a most interesting account of the last descent of the Montenegrins. He had a most unconquerable horror of my favourite mountaineers, and believed there could be no peace nor prosperity 287 in that part of the world until they should be all exterminated46.
Having finished our breakfast, Heydeg and I strolled outside the walls to where the market is held under some magnificent old carob trees, and there, as at Cattaro, were numbers of Montenegrins disposing of their produce. Here we had some delicious fresh figs47, and then lighting48 our cigars we went round the old fortifications, which are now only just sufficient for protection at night against any sudden incursion of the wild tribes of the interior. Then we had a good bathe in a most delicious little cove49, entirely50 girt round with rocks, and with a sandy bottom that felt like velvet51 under our feet. We then again lit another cigar, and started on a tour of exploration through this old town.
Budua, situated52 at the extreme end of Dalmatia, in what used to be called Northern Albania, is the last Austrian city on the coast of the Adriatic. It is built on a low rocky promontory, and possesses no interest, save in its picturesque53 appearance, which it derives54 from its medi?val walls and machicolated towers—useless, indeed, 288 against a civilized55 enemy, but still offering some protection against possible irruptions from Albanian freebooters. It is especially picturesque as seen from the sea, with its rugged background of naked mountains. Immediately about it there is some cultivation56 on the narrow strip of land which lies between the mountains and the sea; and corn, vines, olive trees, and mulberries for the rearing of silk-worms, are diligently57 grown.
Inside, it is not attractive—its streets are extremely narrow, no more than six feet wide in many instances; they are, however, well paved, and would do well enough, were it not for the utter disregard to cleanliness and drainage. Still there are some wealthy people living there, and many of the houses are very good and substantial. There are several good shops, (perhaps the word stores would best describe them), where a brisk trade seemed to be carried on. The Baron and I poked58 our way through all the nooks and crannies of the place. We found nothing to invite attention, but a great deal to shock the sight, and even the sense of smell. So we hurried on and went to pay a visit to 289 my buxom Ballinrobe friend, who had not only quite forgotten her ancestral brogue, but had actually exchanged it for a decided59 American accent, which, to my ears, was not an improvement. She offered us neither English tea nor Irish whiskey punch, but gave us some delicious lemonade and maraschino; and showed by her manner that, if the brogue was gone, the hearty60 Irish welcome was there still.
From thence I went with the Baron to his own little apartment, which opened on to an enchanting61 little terrace, covered over with a grand "pergola" of vines, under whose refreshing62 shade we smoked away the time till we should go to dinner.
We had not been long enjoying an excellent repast at our pharmaceutical63 (deuced hard name to spell, by-the-by) restaurant when we were informed that the steamer for Corfu was entering the harbour, and would leave in two hours.
The time for parting had come at last, fresh bottles were tapped, and we all drank each others' health, and a happy journey to me amidst noisy demonstrations64 and much clinking of glasses. Dinner being at last completed, we all arose and 290 walked in a body to the Mole21, where, my luggage having preceded me, I went at once on board. There was no time for lengthy65 adieux, the steamer was whistling, and almost while we were shaking hands she cast off her moorings, and we were off.
点击收听单词发音
1 baron | |
n.男爵;(商业界等)巨头,大王 | |
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2 apothecary | |
n.药剂师 | |
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3 twilight | |
n.暮光,黄昏;暮年,晚期,衰落时期 | |
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4 merging | |
合并(分类) | |
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5 villa | |
n.别墅,城郊小屋 | |
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6 rugged | |
adj.高低不平的,粗糙的,粗壮的,强健的 | |
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7 amends | |
n. 赔偿 | |
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8 discomfort | |
n.不舒服,不安,难过,困难,不方便 | |
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9 pony | |
adj.小型的;n.小马 | |
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10 latitudes | |
纬度 | |
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11 isthmus | |
n.地峡 | |
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12 gulf | |
n.海湾;深渊,鸿沟;分歧,隔阂 | |
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13 promontory | |
n.海角;岬 | |
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14 genial | |
adj.亲切的,和蔼的,愉快的,脾气好的 | |
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15 marsh | |
n.沼泽,湿地 | |
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16 dozed | |
v.打盹儿,打瞌睡( doze的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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17 prostration | |
n. 平伏, 跪倒, 疲劳 | |
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18 standing | |
n.持续,地位;adj.永久的,不动的,直立的,不流动的 | |
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19 imbibed | |
v.吸收( imbibe的过去式和过去分词 );喝;吸取;吸气 | |
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20 malarious | |
(患)疟疾的,(有)瘴气的 | |
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21 mole | |
n.胎块;痣;克分子 | |
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22 molecules | |
分子( molecule的名词复数 ) | |
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23 regiment | |
n.团,多数,管理;v.组织,编成团,统制 | |
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24 buxom | |
adj.(妇女)丰满的,有健康美的 | |
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25 kindly | |
adj.和蔼的,温和的,爽快的;adv.温和地,亲切地 | |
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26 procured | |
v.(努力)取得, (设法)获得( procure的过去式和过去分词 );拉皮条 | |
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27 perfectly | |
adv.完美地,无可非议地,彻底地 | |
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28 stifling | |
a.令人窒息的 | |
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29 adjourned | |
(使)休会, (使)休庭( adjourn的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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30 vile | |
adj.卑鄙的,可耻的,邪恶的;坏透的 | |
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31 remains | |
n.剩余物,残留物;遗体,遗迹 | |
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32 stuffy | |
adj.不透气的,闷热的 | |
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33 pervaded | |
v.遍及,弥漫( pervade的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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34 commingled | |
v.混合,掺和,合并( commingle的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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35 reigned | |
vi.当政,统治(reign的过去式形式) | |
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36 supreme | |
adj.极度的,最重要的;至高的,最高的 | |
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37 perspiration | |
n.汗水;出汗 | |
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38 solely | |
adv.仅仅,唯一地 | |
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39 demolishing | |
v.摧毁( demolish的现在分词 );推翻;拆毁(尤指大建筑物);吃光 | |
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40 rambled | |
(无目的地)漫游( ramble的过去式和过去分词 ); (喻)漫谈; 扯淡; 长篇大论 | |
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41 dominions | |
统治权( dominion的名词复数 ); 领土; 疆土; 版图 | |
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42 jargon | |
n.术语,行话 | |
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43 spoke | |
n.(车轮的)辐条;轮辐;破坏某人的计划;阻挠某人的行动 v.讲,谈(speak的过去式);说;演说;从某种观点来说 | |
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44 varied | |
adj.多样的,多变化的 | |
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45 pharmacy | |
n.药房,药剂学,制药业,配药业,一批备用药品 | |
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46 exterminated | |
v.消灭,根绝( exterminate的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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47 figs | |
figures 数字,图形,外形 | |
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48 lighting | |
n.照明,光线的明暗,舞台灯光 | |
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49 cove | |
n.小海湾,小峡谷 | |
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50 entirely | |
ad.全部地,完整地;完全地,彻底地 | |
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51 velvet | |
n.丝绒,天鹅绒;adj.丝绒制的,柔软的 | |
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52 situated | |
adj.坐落在...的,处于某种境地的 | |
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53 picturesque | |
adj.美丽如画的,(语言)生动的,绘声绘色的 | |
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54 derives | |
v.得到( derive的第三人称单数 );(从…中)得到获得;源于;(从…中)提取 | |
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55 civilized | |
a.有教养的,文雅的 | |
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56 cultivation | |
n.耕作,培养,栽培(法),养成 | |
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57 diligently | |
ad.industriously;carefully | |
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58 poked | |
v.伸出( poke的过去式和过去分词 );戳出;拨弄;与(某人)性交 | |
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59 decided | |
adj.决定了的,坚决的;明显的,明确的 | |
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60 hearty | |
adj.热情友好的;衷心的;尽情的,纵情的 | |
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61 enchanting | |
a.讨人喜欢的 | |
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62 refreshing | |
adj.使精神振作的,使人清爽的,使人喜欢的 | |
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63 pharmaceutical | |
adj.药学的,药物的;药用的,药剂师的 | |
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64 demonstrations | |
证明( demonstration的名词复数 ); 表明; 表达; 游行示威 | |
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65 lengthy | |
adj.漫长的,冗长的 | |
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