AFTER leaving Budua we kept close in shore, enjoying the wild rugged2 scenery of the Dalmatian coast till we reached Antivari, where we first came into immediate3 contact with the Turks on their own Ottoman soil. The first impression, I must confess, was certainly not a favourable4 one.
Should any one of my readers, with a bias5 in 292 favour of Ottomans and Ottoman rule, ever determine on visiting Turkey, let him not receive his first impression of that empire by a visit to Antivari. A few wretched hovels, a miserable6 white-washed house, with a small and dirty red flag over it; a group of miserably-dressed, vile-countenanced, ragamuffin-looking soldiers, in baggy8 blue trousers and crimson9 fezzes, constituted all the features of the place. The town of Antivari itself, I heard, was a few miles inland, but if one may judge of the town from its villainous port, it must be wretched in the extreme.
The steamer remained here a couple of hours to land goods and take in passengers, but as the heat was excessive and the prospect11 of the country most unpromising, I made no attempt to land. I did not however lack entertainment, and while I lounged over the bulwarks12 on the shady side of the steamer, I amused myself pitching half-francs into the water, which was of very considerable depth and of the clearest and limpidest blue, to half a score or so of lads and small boys who were swimming, and diving, and treading the 293 water in the most surprising manner; they seemed just as much at home in the sea as on the land, and fetched up the coins from the bottom as easily as I could have picked them up from the deck.
When tired of looking at the swimmers, I turned to watch the new arrivals, of which we had a considerable number, all Orientals, and almost all deck passengers. The first which caught my eye, coming up the side of the steamer, was a wretched-looking, squalid creature, dressed in rags, but most picturesque13 withal. He was small, slight, and extremely dark, just short of black, but with distinctly Caucasian features, not a negroid by any means. He had a small bundle over his shoulders, and in his right hand he carried a short lance, with a very bright steel head, ornamented14 with a few lines of Damascene work in gold. His head was covered with a somewhat conical-shaped cap, encircled with a scanty15 and very ragged16 green turban, while at his side he carried a moderate sized bottle-gourd. He was a very singular looking being, and all I could make out through 294 the captain was that he thought he was a dervish returning home from visiting some sacred shrine17 in Mahomedan Europe. As to his home, he suspected from his costume it might be in Kurdistan, but it was very much guess work, as the Captain spoke18 neither Arabic nor Turkish.
Another interesting group consisted of three gaily19 dressed Orientals, in bag trousers tight at the knees, turban, and highly embroidered20 jackets. They made their way to the quarter-deck abaft21 the paddle box, and were about being summarily ejected by the steward22 in consequence of being deck passengers, when I interposed, and got him to let them stay for a while. They perfectly23 well understood that it was owing to my interference they were allowed to remain, and so we knocked up a sort of acquaintance, and carried on a lame24, very lame conversation by the help of the youngest, who could speak a very few words of Italian. I could not make out any thing about them, whence they came, or whither they were going, but from their features I could easily see they were Asiatics, Arabs most 295 probably, and the youngest, who was also the lightest in colour, had three scars on each cheek, not unlike in shape to our broad arrow.
How I longed for a knowledge of Arabic, how I envied Captain Burton! If he had been there we should at once have known all about them, and the dervish and everyone else, including a tall, handsome Soudani slave, who kept grinning and showing his teeth from ear to ear, while I was carrying on my lame conversation with the Arabs.
Up to this point, Italian and German had enabled me to get on famously; but now that I was getting among Asiatics, although I was still in Europe, I felt my utter helplessness, and the absolute necessity for a knowledge of the language of the Koran, for those who wish to visit the East with pleasure and profit.
The whole deck forward was encumbered25 with passengers. In one corner seated on a pile of luggage, but well bolstered26 up by rolls of Persian carpets, was a most truculent-looking 296 Oriental, attended by an intelligent-looking young negro, with a most astonishing Caucasian type of countenance7. He wore nothing but a white calico sort of shirt with loose sleeves, and a string of red beads27 round his neck. He had none of the characteristics of the negro except the colour; had I known anything of Arabic, I could most probably have learnt something about his origin.
In another corner of the deck a Mahomedan merchant (as I was informed he was) had contrived28 to screen off a place for himself and his family, one of whom, about three years old, was sprawling29 stark30 naked on a rug in the broiling31 sun, while a closely veiled female, his mother I suppose, was chasing small deer all over his person, which was closely spotted32 as if with measles—but they were only bites!
Quite at the prow33 of the vessel34, somewhat apart, and separated from the rest, was a military officer, evidently of some considerable rank, if one could judge by the orders and stars fastened to his breast, his handsome hilted sabre, and his patent leather boots. He was a heavy morose-looking 297 man of about fifty, with close cropped black beard, blue Turkish uniform, and crimson fez. I was told he was a real pasha, and had with him a suite35 of two officers and half a dozen soldiers. He was only a deck passenger like the others; but whether he travelled so from poverty, from motives36 of economy, or from scorning to associate with the hated and envied Nazarenes, I cannot tell, though I strongly suspect that genuine impecuniosity37 was the real cause of it.
The Turkish troops I saw in this part of Albania were the most wretched specimens38 I ever witnessed, small, mean, dirty, disreputable-looking in the extreme, and their officers matched them to perfection. Having remarked on their appearance, I was told by the captain of the steamer not to form an opinion of the Ottoman army by such samples, as they always sent their worst regiments39 to Albania, and that these wretched troops, both officers and men, were always months in arrears40 of pay.
At last every one was on board, the last package was hoisted41 over the side, and again we were 298 steaming down southwards. The afternoon was very enjoyable, the heat much less, and as the number of cabin passengers was small, we were able to have our supper on deck, which we enjoyed immensely.
After the meal was concluded, I again went forward among the natives, and soon made friends with many of the dusky passengers by means of a few signs; but our conversation was not lively—signs and gesticulations and dumb show were the principal means of conversation—of language we made little or no use. Had I known ever so little of Arabic we could have got on fairly enough—the pantomime of these Orientals being so wonderfully expressive42. So I returned to the quarter-deck, where I had some coffee with the captain, and then feeling tired, I went down to my camerino, and was soon asleep.
On awaking the next morning I found we were at anchor opposite the town and fortress of Castel Durazzo, telling of its Venetian origin by its name. Here we remained a few hours, but the place did not look attractive, and as I did not feel quite "the thing," I did not go on shore, but 299 remained on deck looking at the motley groups as they passed up and down. Again we had the usual interchange of passengers and goods, and after a few hours' delay we were just about steaming away when the return steamer from Corfu came alongside of us.
As chance would have it, it turned out to be the very boat which had brought me down to Cattaro; and no sooner did the captain spy me out on deck than he shouted that the quarantine had been declared at Corfu against all vessels43 coming from Trieste, and that if I went on I should be detained to perform fourteen days of quarantine in the Lazzaretto, instead of being allowed to continue my journey on to Constantinople. I asked him to come over, which he did at once, and having held a consultation45 with the other captain, who entirely46 agreed with him that I should most certainly be detained a fortnight at Corfu, and be compelled to perform my quarantine in the Lazzaretto, I determined47 on returning to Trieste. Fourteen days in a Lazzaretto anywhere would be a severe ordeal48, but fourteen days of such an imprisonment49 during the dog-days at Corfu could 300 not possibly have been faced; it would not only have been a severe trial of patience in every shape and form, but might have been conducive50 to serious illness.
There was no time to be lost, so my luggage was at once put into the captain's boat, and in a few minutes I again found myself on board the old steamer, where Giovanni, the steward, greeted me as if I had been an old friend.
At sunset we steamed away northward51 from Castel Durazzo. The captain was delighted to see me again, and Giovanni was most affable, doing his utmost to promote my happiness. But like Rachel of old I would not be comforted, all my plans were thoroughly52 upset; I could not bring myself to make fresh arrangements. I was turning my back on my beloved South and I was retracing53 my steps—both things I utterly54 detested55. But non ci era rimedio, the quarantine and the Lazzaretto I could not face, so there was nothing else to do but resign oneself to the fates.
The next morning we came abreast56 of Budua, but I did not land as I did not feel well. I 301 screwed up my courage, however, and attempted a little sketch57 of its castle and harbour, with its blue sea and its background of rocky mountains. After a little, and just as we were leaving the place, I felt worse, so I took some medicine and went to lie down. In two hours more I was in high fever, with a racking pain in my head and back, and I felt my mind almost wandering. We reached the Bocche that evening, but the beauties of the Fjord were lost to me—I lay in my cabin prostrated58. Giovanni came instantly to see me, trying to comfort me by telling me I had only caught "la febbre," and that I should send for the doctor at Cattaro to get myself bled, and take quinine, when I should be all right. I think that the idea of Giovanni's bringing a doctor and having me bled, nolens volens, roused me up. I made myself some tea, and just as we reached Cattaro I felt much better—the fever had abated59, and now, said I, is the time to take the quinine.
I had brought lots of it with me, so I measured out as much as I could pile upon a shilling, and bolted it. It certainly cut short the disease, as 302 the fever did not set in again; but I was not well for many days after, and even when I arrived at Trieste I felt quite weak and out of sorts.
The next morning early we left Cattaro, and in the afternoon got to Gravosa. I felt somewhat better, and hearing that Consul44 Paton, who was then alive, and his family were in a villa10 just opposite to where the steamer was moored60, I took a boat and spent two delightful61 hours with them, till the steam-whistle told me how quickly the time had flown. I reluctantly made my adieux, and soon was steaming out of the harbour.
It wanted scarcely an hour of sunset: the sun was low in the horizon—all the lights and shades were the more intensely marked, while the constantly changing tints62, from brightest rose and golden yellow to the deepest violets and blues63, created such a fairy scene that I would not venture to describe it.
I was in the fullest enjoyment64 of that sunset, gazing on where the sun was just dipping into the sea, sending a flood of golden light along the surface from himself to us, when the captain 303 tapped me on the shoulder, saying, "Vada giù, you had la febbre last night; don't expose yourself to the air al tramonto;" so I took his advice, and went down below, notwithstanding the heat, and so ended the 23rd day of July!
The following day saw us at Lesina and at Curzola, and again at Lissa. The day after brought us abreast of Spalato, where again I enjoyed a couple of hours' ramble65 among those glorious ruins. Then we cruised through the countless66 islands near the mouth of the Quarnero, and finally reached Trieste, where, after having enjoyed two pleasant days with Captain Burton and his charming and talented lady, I turned my steps towards home.
Here I take my leave of the reader. If he shall be disappointed with my style and my many shortcomings I shall not be surprised; but I shall be disappointed indeed if, following a somewhat similar track to the one I have been tracing, only penetrating67, if possible, more into Servia proper, and going across it from the Danube to the Adriatic, he shall not feel himself amply repaid 304 by having taken my advice in visiting those countries which I have endeavoured to describe.
THE END.
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1
fortress
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| n.堡垒，防御工事 | |
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rugged
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| adj.高低不平的，粗糙的，粗壮的，强健的 | |
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immediate
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| adj.立即的；直接的，最接近的；紧靠的 | |
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4
favourable
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| adj.赞成的，称赞的，有利的，良好的，顺利的 | |
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bias
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| n.偏见，偏心，偏袒；vt.使有偏见 | |
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miserable
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| adj.悲惨的，痛苦的；可怜的，糟糕的 | |
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7
countenance
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| n.脸色，面容；面部表情；vt.支持，赞同 | |
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8
baggy
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| adj.膨胀如袋的，宽松下垂的 | |
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crimson
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| n./adj.深(绯)红色(的)；vi.脸变绯红色 | |
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villa
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| n.别墅，城郊小屋 | |
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prospect
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| n.前景，前途；景色，视野 | |
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bulwarks
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| n.堡垒( bulwark的名词复数 )；保障；支柱；舷墙 | |
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13
picturesque
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| adj.美丽如画的，（语言）生动的，绘声绘色的 | |
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14
ornamented
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| adj.花式字体的v.装饰，点缀，美化( ornament的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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15
scanty
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| adj.缺乏的，仅有的，节省的，狭小的，不够的 | |
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16
ragged
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| adj.衣衫褴褛的，粗糙的，刺耳的 | |
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shrine
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| n.圣地，神龛，庙；v.将...置于神龛内，把...奉为神圣 | |
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18
spoke
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| n.（车轮的）辐条；轮辐；破坏某人的计划；阻挠某人的行动 v.讲，谈（speak的过去式）；说；演说；从某种观点来说 | |
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gaily
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| adv.欢乐地，高兴地 | |
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embroidered
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| adj．绣花的 | |
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abaft
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| prep.在…之后；adv.在船尾，向船尾 | |
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steward
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| n.乘务员，服务员；看管人；膳食管理员 | |
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23
perfectly
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| adv.完美地，无可非议地，彻底地 | |
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lame
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| adj.跛的，(辩解、论据等)无说服力的 | |
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encumbered
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| v.妨碍，阻碍，拖累( encumber的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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26
bolstered
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| v.支持( bolster的过去式和过去分词 )；支撑；给予必要的支持；援助 | |
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27
beads
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| n.（空心）小珠子( bead的名词复数 )；水珠；珠子项链 | |
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28
contrived
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| adj.不自然的，做作的；虚构的 | |
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sprawling
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| adj.蔓生的，不规则地伸展的v.伸开四肢坐[躺]( sprawl的现在分词 )；蔓延；杂乱无序地拓展；四肢伸展坐着（或躺着） | |
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stark
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| adj.荒凉的；严酷的；完全的；adv.完全地 | |
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broiling
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| adj.酷热的，炽热的，似烧的v.（用火）烤（焙、炙等）( broil的现在分词 )；使卷入争吵；使混乱；被烤（或炙） | |
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spotted
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| adj.有斑点的，斑纹的，弄污了的 | |
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prow
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| n.(飞机)机头，船头 | |
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vessel
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| n.船舶；容器，器皿；管，导管，血管 | |
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suite
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| n.一套(家具)；套房；随从人员 | |
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motives
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| n.动机，目的( motive的名词复数 ) | |
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impecuniosity
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| n.（经常）没有钱，身无分文，贫穷 | |
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specimens
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| n.样品( specimen的名词复数 )；范例；（化验的）抽样；某种类型的人 | |
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39
regiments
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| （军队的）团( regiment的名词复数 )； 大量的人或物 | |
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arrears
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| n.到期未付之债，拖欠的款项；待做的工作 | |
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41
hoisted
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| 把…吊起，升起( hoist的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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42
expressive
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| adj.表现的，表达…的，富于表情的 | |
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43
vessels
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| n.血管( vessel的名词复数 )；船；容器；（具有特殊品质或接受特殊品质的）人 | |
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44
consul
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| n.领事；执政官 | |
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consultation
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| n.咨询；商量；商议；会议 | |
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46
entirely
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| ad.全部地，完整地；完全地，彻底地 | |
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determined
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| adj.坚定的；有决心的 | |
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48
ordeal
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| n.苦难经历，（尤指对品格、耐力的）严峻考验 | |
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49
imprisonment
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| n.关押，监禁，坐牢 | |
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50
conducive
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| adj.有益的，有助的 | |
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51
northward
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| adv.向北；n.北方的地区 | |
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52
thoroughly
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| adv.完全地，彻底地，十足地 | |
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53
retracing
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| v.折回( retrace的现在分词 )；回忆；回顾；追溯 | |
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utterly
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| adv.完全地，绝对地 | |
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55
detested
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| v.憎恶，嫌恶，痛恨( detest的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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abreast
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| adv.并排地；跟上(时代)的步伐，与…并进地 | |
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sketch
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| n.草图；梗概；素描；v.素描；概述 | |
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58
prostrated
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| v.使俯伏，使拜倒( prostrate的过去式和过去分词 )；（指疾病、天气等）使某人无能为力 | |
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abated
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| 减少( abate的过去式和过去分词 )； 减去； 降价； 撤消（诉讼） | |
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moored
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| adj. 系泊的 动词moor的过去式和过去分词形式 | |
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delightful
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| adj.令人高兴的，使人快乐的 | |
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62
tints
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| 色彩( tint的名词复数 )； 带白的颜色； （淡色）染发剂； 痕迹 | |
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63
blues
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| n.抑郁，沮丧；布鲁斯音乐 | |
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enjoyment
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| n.乐趣；享有；享用 | |
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ramble
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| v.漫步，漫谈，漫游；n.漫步，闲谈，蔓延 | |
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66
countless
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| adj.无数的，多得不计其数的 | |
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67
penetrating
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| adj.（声音）响亮的，尖锐的adj.（气味）刺激的adj.（思想）敏锐的，有洞察力的 | |
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