I cannot remember any journey in my whole life which gave me more enjoyment1 at the time, or which is more pleasant in recollection, than our first horseback ride of 275 versts over the flowery hills and through the green valleys of southern Kamchatka. Surrounded as we continually were by the wildest and most beautiful scenery in all northern Asia, experiencing for the first time the novelty and adventurous2 excitement of camp life, and rejoicing in a newly found sense of freedom and perfect independence, we turned our backs gaily3 on civilisation4, and rode away with light hearts into the wilderness5, making the hills ring to the music of our songs and halloos.
Our party, aside from drivers and guides, consisted of four men—Major Abaza, chief of Asiatic exploration, Dodd the young American, whom we had engaged in Petropavlovsk, Viushin (view'-shin) a Cossack orderly, and myself. The biting sarcasm6 directed by Mithridates at the army of Lucullus—that if they came as ambassadors they were too many, if as soldiers too few—would have applied7 with equal force to our small party made up as it was of only four men; but strength is not always to be measured by numbers, and we had no fears that we should not be able to cope with any obstacles which might lie in our way. We could certainly find subsistence where a larger party might starve.
On Sunday, September 3d, our horses were loaded and despatched in advance to a small village on the opposite side of the bay, where we intended to meet them with a whale-boat. On Monday the 4th, we made our farewell calls upon the Russian authorities, drank an inordinate8 quantity of champagne9 to our own health and success, and set out in two whale-boats for Avacha, accompanied by the whole American population of Petropavlovsk. Crossing the bay under spritsail and jib, with a slashing10 breeze from the south-west, we ran swiftly into the mouth of the Avacha River, and landed at the village to refresh ourselves for the fifteenth time with "fifteen drops," and take leave of our American friends, Pierce, Hunter, and Fronefield. Copious11 libations were poured out to the tutelary12 saint of Kamchatkan explorers, and giving and receiving three hearty13 cheers we pushed off and began to make our way slowly up the river with poles and paddles toward the Kamchadal settlement of Okuta (o-koo'-tah).
Our native crew, sharing in the universal dissipation which had attended our departure, and wholly unaccustomed to such reckless drinking, were reduced by this time to a comical state of happy imbecility, in which they sang Kamchadal songs, blessed the Americans, and fell overboard alternately, without contributing in any marked degree to the successful navigation of our heavy whale-boat. Viushin, however, with characteristic energy, hauled the drowning wretches14 in by their hair, rapped them over the head with a paddle to restore consciousness, pushed the boat off sand-bars, kept its head up stream, poled, rowed, jumped into the water, shouted, swore, and proved himself fully15 equal to any emergency.
It was considerably16 after noon when we left Petropavlovsk, and owing to the incompetency17 of our Kamchadal crew, and the frequency of sand-bars, night overtook us on the river some distance below Okuta. Selecting a place where the bank was dry and accessible, we beached our whale-boat and prepared for our first bivouac in the open air. Beating down the high wet grass, Viushin pitched our little cotton tent, carpeted it with warm, dry bearskins, improvised18 a table and a cloth out of an empty candle-box and a clean towel, built a fire, boiled tea, and in twenty minutes set before us a hot supper which would not have done discredit19 to the culinary skill of Soyer himself. After supper we sat by the fire smoking and talking until the long twilight20 died away in the west, and then, rolling ourselves up in heavy blankets, we lay down on our bearskins and listened to the low quacking22 of a half-awakened duck in the sedges, and the lonely cries of night birds on the river until at last we fell asleep.
Day was just breaking in the east when I awoke. The mist, which for a week had hung in grey clouds around the mountains, had now vanished, and the first object which met my eyes through the open door of the tent was the great white cone23 of Villuchinski gleaming spectrally24 through the greyness of the dawn. As the red flush in the east deepened, all nature seemed to awake. Ducks and geese quacked25 from every bunch of reeds along the shore; the strange wailing26 cries of sea-gulls could be heard from the neighbouring coast; and from the clear, blue sky came down the melodious27 trumpeting28 of wild swans, as they flew inland to their feeding-places. I washed my face in the clear, cold water of the river, and waked Dodd to see the mountains. Directly behind our tent, in one unbroken sheet of snow, rose the colossal29 peak of Korátskoi (ko-rat'-skoi), ten thousand five hundred feet in height, its sharp white summit already crimsoning30 with the rays of the rising sun, while the morning star yet throbbed31 faintly over the cool purple of its eastern slope. A little to the right was the huge volcano of Avacha, with a long banner of golden smoke hung out from its broken summit, and the Raselskoi (rah'-sel-skoi) volcano puffing32 out dark vapour from three craters34. Far down the coast, thirty miles away, stood the sharp peak of Villúchinski, with the watch-fires of morning already burning upon its summit, and beyond it the hazy35 blue outlines of the coast range. Shreds36 of fleecy mist here and there floated up the mountain sides, and vanished like the spirits of the night dews rising from earth to heaven in bright resurrection. Steadily37 the warm, rosy38 flush of sunrise crept down the snowy slopes of the mountains, until at last, with a quick sudden burst, it poured a flood of light into the valley, tinging39 our little white tent with a delicate pink, like that of a wild-rose petal40, turning every pendent dewdrop into a twinkling brilliant, and lighting41 up the still water of the river, until it became a quivering, flashing mass of liquid silver.
"I'm not romantic, but, upon my word,
There are some moments when one can't help feeling
As if his heart's chords were so strongly stirred
By things around him, that 'tis vain concealing42
A little music in his soul still lingers,
Whene'er the keys are touched by Nature's fingers."
I was just delivering the above quotation43 in impassioned style, when Dodd, who never allowed his enthusiasm for the beauties of nature to interfere44 with a proper regard for the welfare of his stomach, emerged from the tent, and, with a mock solemn apology for interrupting my soliloquy, said that if I could bring my mind down to the contemplation of material things he would inform me that breakfast was ready, and begged to suggest that the little music in my soul be allowed to "linger," since it could do so with less detriment45 than the said breakfast. The force of this suggestion, seconded as it was by a savoury odour from the interior of the tent, could not be denied. I went, but still continued between the spoonfuls of hot soup to "rave," as Dodd expressed it, about the scenery. After breakfast the tent was struck, camp equipage packed up, and taking seats in the stern-sheets of our whale-boat we pushed off and resumed our slow ascent46 of the river.
The vegetation everywhere, untouched as yet by the autumn frosts, seemed to have an almost tropical luxuriance. High wild grass, mingled47 with varicoloured flowers, extended to the very river's brink48; Alpine49 roses and cinquefoil grew in dense50 thickets51 along the bank, and dropped their pink and yellow petals52 like fairy boats upon the surface of the clear still water; yellow columbine drooped53 low over the river, to see its graceful54 image mirrored beside that of the majestic55 volcano; and strange black Kamchatkan lilies, with downcast looks, stood here and there in sad loneliness, mourning in funeral garb56 some unknown flowery bereavement57.
Nor was animal life wanting to complete the picture. Wild ducks, with long outstretched necks, shot past us, continually in their swift level flight, uttering hoarse58 quacks59 of curiosity and apprehension60; the honking61 of geese came to us, softened62 by distance, from the higher slopes of the mountains; and now and then a magnificent eagle, startled from his solitary63 watch on some jutting64 rock, expanded his broad-barred wings, launched himself into air, and soared upward in ever-widening circles until he became a mere65 moving speck66 against the white snowy crater33 of the Avachinski volcano. Never had I seen a picture of such wild primitive67 loneliness as that presented by this beautiful fertile valley, encircled by smoking volcanoes and snow-covered mountains, yet green as the Vale of Tempe, teeming68 with animal and vegetable life, yet solitary, uninhabited by man, and apparently69 unknown. About noon the barking of dogs announced our approach to a settlement, and turning an abrupt70 bend in the river we came in sight of the Kamchadal village of Okuta (o-koo'-tah).
A Kamchadal village differs in some respects so widely from an American frontier settlement, that it is worthy71, perhaps, of a brief description. It is situated72 generally on a little elevation73 near the bank of some river or stream, surrounded by scattered74 clumps75 of poplar and yellow birch, and protected by high hills from the cold northern winds. Its houses, which are clustered irregularly together near the beach, are very low, and are made of logs squared and notched76 at the ends, and chinked with masses of dry moss77. The roofs are covered with a rough thatch78 of long coarse grass or with overlapping79 strips of tamarack bark, and project at the ends and sides into wide overhanging eaves. The window-frames, although occasionally glazed80, are more frequently covered with an irregular patchwork81 of translucent82 fish bladders, sewn together with thread made of the dried and pounded sinews of the reindeer83. The doors are almost square, and the chimneys are nothing but long straight poles, arranged in a circle and plastered over thickly with clay. Here and there between the houses stand half a dozen curious architectural quadrupeds called "balagáns" (bah-lah-gans'), or fish storehouses. They are simply conical log tents, elevated from the ground on four posts to secure their contents from the dogs, and resemble as much as anything small haystacks trying to walk away on four legs. High square frames of horizontal poles stand beside every house, filled with thousands of drying salmon84; and "an ancient and fish-like smell," which pervades85 the whole atmosphere, betrays the nature of the Kamchadals' occupation and of the food upon which they live. Half a dozen dugout canoes lie bottom upward on the sandy shelving beach, covered with large neatly86 tied seines; two or three long, narrow dog-sledges87 stand up on their ends against every house, and a hundred or more sharp-eared wolfish dogs, tied at intervals88 to long heavy poles, lie panting in the sun, snapping viciously at the flies and mosquitoes which disturb their rest. In the centre of the village, facing the west, stands, in all the glory of Kamchatko-Byzantine architecture, red paint, and glittering domes89, the omnipresent Greek church, contrasting strangely with the rude log houses and conical balagáns over which it extends the spiritual protection of its resplendent golden cross. It is built generally of carefully hewn logs, painted a deep brick-red, covered with a green sheet-iron roof, and surmounted90 by two onion-shaped domes of tin which are sometimes coloured sky-blue and spangled with golden stars. Standing91 with all its glaring contrasts of colour among a few unpainted log houses in a primitive wilderness, it has a strange picturesque92 appearance not easily described. If you can imagine a rough American backwoods settlement of low log houses clustered round a gaily coloured Turkish mosque93, half a dozen small haystacks mounted on high vertical94 posts, fifteen or twenty Titanic95 wooden gridirons similarly elevated and hung full of drying fish, a few dog-sledges and canoes lying carelessly around, and a hundred or more grey wolves tied here and there between the houses to long heavy poles, you will have a general but tolerably accurate idea of a Kamchadal settlement of the better class. They differ somewhat in respect to their size and their churches; but the grey log houses, conical balagáns drying fish, wolfish dogs, canoes, sledges, and fishy96 odours are all invariable features.
The inhabitants of these native settlements in southern Kamchatka are a dark swarthy race, considerably below the average stature97 of Siberian natives, and are very different in all their characteristics from the wandering tribes of Koraks and Chukchis who live farther north. The men average perhaps five feet three or four inches in height, have broad flat faces, prominent cheek bones, small and rather sunken eyes, no beards, long, lank21, black hair, small hands and feet, very slender limbs, and a tendency to enlargement and protrusion98 of the abdomen99. They are probably of central Asiatic origin, but they certainly have had no very recent connection with any other Siberian tribe with which I am acquainted, and are not at all like the Chukchis, Koraks, Yakuts (yah-koots'), or Tunguses (toon-goo'-ses). From the fact of their living a settled instead of a wandering life they were brought under Russian subjection much more easily than their nomadic100 neighbours, and have since experienced in a greater degree the civilising influences of Russian intercourse101. They have adopted almost universally the religion, customs, and habits of their conquerors102, and their own language, which is a very curious one, is already falling into disuse. It would be easy to describe their character by negatives. They are not independent, self-reliant, or of a combative103 disposition104 like the northern Chukchis and Koraks; they are not avaricious105 or dishonest, except where those traits are the results of Russian education; they are not suspicious or distrustful, but rather the contrary; and for generosity106, hospitality, simple good faith, and easy, equable good-nature under all circumstances, I have never met their equals. As a race they are undoubtedly107 becoming extinct. Since 1780, they have diminished in numbers more than one half, and frequently recurring108 epidemics109 and famines will soon reduce them to a comparatively weak and unimportant tribe, which will finally be absorbed in the growing Russian population of the peninsula. They have already lost most of their distinctive110 customs and superstitions111, and only an occasional sacrifice of a dog to some malignant112 spirit of storm or disease enables the modern traveller to catch a glimpse of their original paganism. They depend mainly for subsistence upon the salmon, which every summer run into these northern rivers in immense numbers to spawn113, and are speared, caught in seines, and trapped in weirs114 by thousands. These fish, dried without salt in the open air, are the food of the Kamchadals and of their dogs throughout the long, cold northern winter. During the summer, however, their bill of fare is more varied115. The climate and soil of the river bottoms in southern Kamchatka admit of the cultivation116 of rye, potatoes, and turnips117, and the whole peninsula abounds118 in animal life. Reindeer and black and brown bears roam everywhere over the mossy plains and through the grassy119 valleys; wild sheep and a species of ibex are not unfrequently found in the mountains; and millions upon millions of ducks, geese, and swans, in almost endless variety, swarm120 about every river and little marshy121 lake throughout the country. These aquatic122 fowls123 are captured in great multitudes while moulting by organised "drives" of fifty or seventy-five men in canoes, who chase the birds in one great flock up some narrow stream, at the end of which a huge net is arranged for their reception. They are then killed with clubs, cleaned, and salted for winter use. Tea and sugar have been introduced by the Russians, and have been received with great favour, the annual consumption now being more than 20,000 pounds of each in the Kamchatkan peninsula alone. Bread is now made of rye, which the Kamchadals raise and grind for themselves; but previous to the settlement of the country by the Russians, the only native substitute for bread was a sort of baked paste, consisting chiefly of the grated tubers of the purple Kamchatkan lily. [Footnote: A species of fritillaria.] The only fruits in the country are berries and a species of wild cherry. Of the berries, however, there are fifteen or twenty different kinds, of which the most important are blueberries, "maróshkas" (mah-ro'-shkas), or yellow cloud-berries, and dwarf124 cranberries125. These the natives pick late in the fall, and freeze for winter consumption. Cows are kept in nearly all the Kamchadal settlements, and milk is always plenty. A curious native dish of sour milk, baked curds126, and sweet cream, covered with powdered sugar and cinnamon, is worthy of being placed upon a civilised table.
It will thus be seen that life in a Kamchatkan settlement, gastronomically127 considered, is not altogether so disagreeable as we have been led to believe. I have seen natives in the valley of the Kamchatka as pleasantly situated, and enjoying as much comfort and almost as many luxuries, as nine tenths of the settlers upon the frontiers of our western States and Territories.
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1
enjoyment
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| n.乐趣；享有；享用 | |
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adventurous
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| adj.爱冒险的；惊心动魄的，惊险的，刺激的 | |
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gaily
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| adv.欢乐地，高兴地 | |
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civilisation
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| n.文明，文化，开化，教化 | |
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wilderness
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| n.杳无人烟的一片陆地、水等，荒漠 | |
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sarcasm
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| n.讥讽，讽刺，嘲弄，反话 （adj.sarcastic） | |
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7
applied
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| adj.应用的；v.应用，适用 | |
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8
inordinate
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| adj.无节制的；过度的 | |
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9
champagne
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| n.香槟酒；微黄色 | |
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slashing
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| adj.尖锐的；苛刻的；鲜明的；乱砍的v.挥砍( slash的现在分词 )；鞭打；割破；削减 | |
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11
copious
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| adj.丰富的，大量的 | |
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tutelary
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| adj.保护的；守护的 | |
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13
hearty
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| adj.热情友好的；衷心的；尽情的，纵情的 | |
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wretches
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| n.不幸的人( wretch的名词复数 )；可怜的人；恶棍；坏蛋 | |
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fully
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| adv.完全地，全部地，彻底地；充分地 | |
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considerably
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| adv.极大地；相当大地；在很大程度上 | |
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17
incompetency
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| n.无能力，不适当 | |
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improvised
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| a.即席而作的,即兴的 | |
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19
discredit
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| vt.使不可置信；n.丧失信义；不信，怀疑 | |
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20
twilight
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| n.暮光，黄昏；暮年，晚期，衰落时期 | |
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lank
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| adj.瘦削的；稀疏的 | |
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quacking
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| v.（鸭子）发出嘎嘎声( quack的现在分词 ) | |
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cone
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| n.圆锥体，圆锥形东西，球果 | |
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spectrally
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| adv.幽灵似地，可怕地 | |
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quacked
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| v.（鸭子）发出嘎嘎声( quack的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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26
wailing
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| v.哭叫，哀号( wail的现在分词 )；沱 | |
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27
melodious
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| adj.旋律美妙的，调子优美的，音乐性的 | |
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28
trumpeting
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| 大声说出或宣告（trumpet的现在分词形式） | |
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29
colossal
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| adj.异常的，庞大的 | |
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30
crimsoning
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| 变为深红色（crimson的现在分词形式） | |
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31
throbbed
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| 抽痛( throb的过去式和过去分词 )； （心脏、脉搏等）跳动 | |
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32
puffing
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| v.使喷出( puff的现在分词 )；喷着汽（或烟）移动；吹嘘；吹捧 | |
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33
crater
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| n.火山口，弹坑 | |
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craters
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| n.火山口( crater的名词复数 )；弹坑等 | |
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hazy
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| adj.有薄雾的，朦胧的；不肯定的，模糊的 | |
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shreds
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| v.撕碎，切碎( shred的第三人称单数 )；用撕毁机撕毁（文件） | |
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steadily
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| adv.稳定地；不变地；持续地 | |
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rosy
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| adj.美好的，乐观的，玫瑰色的 | |
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tinging
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| v.（使）发丁丁声( ting的现在分词 ) | |
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petal
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| n.花瓣 | |
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lighting
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| n.照明，光线的明暗，舞台灯光 | |
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concealing
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| v.隐藏，隐瞒，遮住( conceal的现在分词 ) | |
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quotation
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| n.引文，引语，语录；报价，牌价，行情 | |
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interfere
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| v.(in)干涉，干预；(with)妨碍，打扰 | |
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45
detriment
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| n.损害；损害物，造成损害的根源 | |
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46
ascent
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| n.(声望或地位)提高；上升，升高；登高 | |
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47
mingled
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| 混合，混入( mingle的过去式和过去分词 )； 混进，与…交往[联系] | |
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48
brink
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| n.(悬崖、河流等的)边缘，边沿 | |
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alpine
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| adj.高山的；n.高山植物 | |
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dense
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| a.密集的，稠密的，浓密的；密度大的 | |
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thickets
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| n.灌木丛( thicket的名词复数 )；丛状物 | |
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52
petals
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| n.花瓣( petal的名词复数 ) | |
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53
drooped
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| 弯曲或下垂，发蔫( droop的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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54
graceful
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| adj.优美的，优雅的；得体的 | |
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majestic
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| adj.雄伟的，壮丽的，庄严的，威严的，崇高的 | |
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garb
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| n.服装，装束 | |
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bereavement
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| n.亲人丧亡，丧失亲人，丧亲之痛 | |
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hoarse
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| adj.嘶哑的，沙哑的 | |
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quacks
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| abbr.quacksalvers 庸医，骗子(16世纪习惯用水银或汞治疗梅毒的人)n.江湖医生( quack的名词复数 )；江湖郎中；（鸭子的）呱呱声v.（鸭子）发出嘎嘎声( quack的第三人称单数 ) | |
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apprehension
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| n.理解，领悟；逮捕，拘捕；忧虑 | |
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honking
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| v.（使）发出雁叫似的声音，鸣（喇叭），按（喇叭）( honk的现在分词 ) | |
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softened
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| （使）变软( soften的过去式和过去分词 )； 缓解打击； 缓和； 安慰 | |
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solitary
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| adj.孤独的，独立的，荒凉的；n.隐士 | |
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jutting
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| v.（使）突出( jut的现在分词 )；伸出；（从…）突出；高出 | |
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mere
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| adj.纯粹的；仅仅，只不过 | |
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speck
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| n.微粒，小污点，小斑点 | |
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primitive
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| adj.原始的；简单的；n.原(始)人，原始事物 | |
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teeming
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| adj.丰富的v.充满( teem的现在分词 )；到处都是；（指水、雨等）暴降；倾注 | |
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apparently
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| adv.显然地；表面上，似乎 | |
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abrupt
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| adj.突然的，意外的；唐突的，鲁莽的 | |
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worthy
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| adj.(of)值得的，配得上的；有价值的 | |
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situated
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| adj.坐落在...的，处于某种境地的 | |
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elevation
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| n.高度；海拔；高地；上升；提高 | |
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scattered
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| adj.分散的，稀疏的；散步的；疏疏落落的 | |
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clumps
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| n.（树、灌木、植物等的）丛、簇( clump的名词复数 )；（土、泥等）团；块；笨重的脚步声v.（树、灌木、植物等的）丛、簇( clump的第三人称单数 )；（土、泥等）团；块；笨重的脚步声 | |
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notched
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| a.有凹口的，有缺口的 | |
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moss
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| n.苔，藓，地衣 | |
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78
thatch
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| vt.用茅草覆盖…的顶部；n.茅草(屋) | |
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overlapping
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| adj./n.交迭（的） | |
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glazed
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| adj.光滑的，像玻璃的；上过釉的；呆滞无神的v.装玻璃( glaze的过去式)；上釉于，上光；（目光）变得呆滞无神 | |
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patchwork
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| n.混杂物；拼缝物 | |
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82
translucent
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| adj.半透明的；透明的 | |
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83
reindeer
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| n.驯鹿 | |
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84
salmon
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| n.鲑，大马哈鱼，橙红色的 | |
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pervades
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| v.遍及，弥漫( pervade的第三人称单数 ) | |
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neatly
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| adv.整洁地，干净地，灵巧地，熟练地 | |
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sledges
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| n.雪橇，雪车( sledge的名词复数 )v.乘雪橇( sledge的第三人称单数 )；用雪橇运载 | |
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intervals
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| n.[军事]间隔( interval的名词复数 )；间隔时间；[数学]区间；（戏剧、电影或音乐会的）幕间休息 | |
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domes
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| n.圆屋顶( dome的名词复数 )；像圆屋顶一样的东西；圆顶体育场 | |
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surmounted
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| 战胜( surmount的过去式和过去分词 )； 克服（困难）； 居于…之上； 在…顶上 | |
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standing
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| n.持续，地位；adj.永久的，不动的，直立的，不流动的 | |
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picturesque
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| adj.美丽如画的，（语言）生动的，绘声绘色的 | |
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mosque
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| n.清真寺 | |
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vertical
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| adj.垂直的，顶点的，纵向的；n.垂直物，垂直的位置 | |
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titanic
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| adj.巨人的，庞大的，强大的 | |
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fishy
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| adj. 值得怀疑的 | |
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stature
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| n.（高度）水平，（高度）境界，身高，身材 | |
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protrusion
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| n.伸出，突出 | |
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abdomen
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| n.腹，下腹(胸部到腿部的部分) | |
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nomadic
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| adj.流浪的；游牧的 | |
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intercourse
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| n.性交；交流，交往，交际 | |
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102
conquerors
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| 征服者，占领者( conqueror的名词复数 ) | |
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combative
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| adj.好战的；好斗的 | |
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disposition
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| n.性情，性格；意向，倾向；排列，部署 | |
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avaricious
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| adj.贪婪的，贪心的 | |
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generosity
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| n.大度，慷慨，慷慨的行为 | |
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undoubtedly
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| adv.确实地，无疑地 | |
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108
recurring
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| adj.往复的，再次发生的 | |
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109
epidemics
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| n．流行病 | |
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110
distinctive
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| adj.特别的，有特色的，与众不同的 | |
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111
superstitions
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| 迷信，迷信行为( superstition的名词复数 ) | |
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112
malignant
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| adj.恶性的，致命的；恶意的，恶毒的 | |
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113
spawn
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| n.卵，产物，后代，结果；vt.产卵，种菌丝于，产生，造成；vi.产卵，大量生产 | |
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weirs
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| n.堰，鱼梁（指拦截游鱼的枝条篱）( weir的名词复数 ) | |
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115
varied
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| adj.多样的，多变化的 | |
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116
cultivation
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| n.耕作，培养，栽培（法），养成 | |
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117
turnips
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| 芜青( turnip的名词复数 )； 芜菁块根； 芜菁甘蓝块根； 怀表 | |
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118
abounds
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| v.大量存在，充满，富于( abound的第三人称单数 ) | |
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grassy
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| adj.盖满草的；长满草的 | |
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120
swarm
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| n.(昆虫)等一大群；vi.成群飞舞；蜂拥而入 | |
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121
marshy
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| adj.沼泽的 | |
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122
aquatic
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| adj.水生的，水栖的 | |
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123
fowls
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| 鸟( fowl的名词复数 )； 禽肉； 既不是这； 非驴非马 | |
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124
dwarf
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| n.矮子，侏儒，矮小的动植物；vt.使…矮小 | |
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125
cranberries
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| n.越橘( cranberry的名词复数 ) | |
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126
curds
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| n.凝乳( curd的名词复数 ) | |
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127
gastronomically
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| adj.美食法的，美食学的 | |
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