At Okuta we found our horses and men awaiting our arrival; and after eating a hasty lunch of bread, milk, and blueberries in a little native house, we clambered awkwardly into our saddles, and filed away in a long irregular line through the woods, Dodd and I taking the advance, singing Bonnie Dundee.
We kept continually near the group of mountains which had presented so beautiful an appearance in the morning; but, owing to the forest of birch and mountain ash which clothed the foot-hills, we caught only occasional glimpses between the tree-tops of their white snowy summits.
Just before sunset, we rode into another little native village, whose ingeniously constructed name defied all my inexperienced attempts to pronounce it or write it down. Dodd was good-natured enough to repeat it to me five or six times; but as it sounded worse and more unintelligible5 every time, I finally called it Jerusalem, and let it go at that. For the sake of geographical6 accuracy I have so marked it down on my map; but let no future commentator7 point to it triumphantly8 as a proof that the lost tribes of Israel emigrated to Kamchatka; I don't believe that they did, and I know that this unfortunate settlement, before I took pity on it and called it Jerusalem, was distinguished9 by a name so utterly10 barbarous that neither the Hebrew alphabet nor any other known to ancient literature could have begun to do it justice.
Tired by the unusual exercise of horseback riding, I entered Jerusalem at a walk, and throwing my bridle to a Kamchadal in blue nankeen shirt and buckskin trousers, who saluted11 me with a reverential bow, I wearily dismounted and entered the house which Viushin indicated as the one we were to occupy.
The best room, which had been prepared for our reception, was a low bare apartment about twelve feet square, whose walls, ceiling, and floor of unpainted birch planks13 were scoured14 to a smooth snowy purity which would have been creditable even to the neat housewives of the Dutch paradise of Broek. An immense clay oven, neatly15 painted red, occupied one side of the room; a bench, three or four rude chairs, and a table, were arranged with severe propriety16 against the other. Two windows of glass, shaded by flowery calico curtains, admitted the warm sunshine; a few coarse American lithographs17 hung here and there against the wall; and the air of perfect neatness, which prevailed everywhere, made us suddenly and painfully conscious of our own muddy boots and rough attire19. No tools except axes and knives had been used in the construction of the house or of its furniture; but the unplaned, unpainted boards had been diligently20 scrubbed with water and sand to a delicate creamy whiteness, which made amends21 for all rudeness of workmanship. There was not a plank12 in the floor from which the most fastidious need have hesitated to eat. The most noticeable peculiarity23 of this, as of all the other Kamchadal houses which we saw in southern Kamchatka, was the lowness of its doors. They seemed to have been designed for a race of beings whose only means of locomotion24 were hands and knees, and to enter them without making use of those means required a flexibility25 of spinal26 vertebrae only to be acquired by long and persevering27 practice. Viushin and Dodd, who had travelled in Kamchatka before, experienced no difficulty in accommodating themselves to this peculiarity of native architecture; but the Major and I, during the first two weeks of our journey, bore upon the fore4 parts of our heads, bumps whose extraordinary size and irregularity of development would have puzzled even Spurzheim and Gall28. If the abnormal enlargement of the bumps had only been accompanied by a corresponding enlargement of the respective faculties29, there would have been some compensation for this disfiguration of our heads; but unfortunately "perception" might be suddenly developed by the lintel of a door until it looked like a goose-egg, without enabling us to perceive the very next beam which came in our way until after we had struck our heads against it.
The Cossack who had been sent through the peninsula as an avant-courier to notify the natives of our coming, had carried the most exaggerated reports of our power and importance, and elaborate preparations had been made by the Jerusalemites for our reception. The house that was to be honoured by our presence had been carefully scrubbed, swept, and garnished30; the women had put on their most flowery calico dresses, and tied their hair up in their brightest silk handkerchiefs; most of the children's faces had been painfully washed and polished with soap, water, and wads of fibrous hemp31; the whole village had been laid under contribution to obtain the requisite32 number of plates, cups, and spoons, for our supper-table, while offerings of ducks, reindeer-tongues, blueberries, and clotted33 cream poured in upon us with a profusion34 which testified to the good-will and hospitality of the inhabitants, as well as to their ready appreciation35 of tired travellers' wants. In an hour we sat down, with appetites sharpened by the pure mountain air, to an excellent supper of cold roast duck, broiled36 reindeer-tongues, black-bread and fresh butter, blueberries and cream, and wild-rose petals crushed with white sugar into a rich delicious jam. We had come to Kamchatka with minds and mouths heroically made up for an unvarying diet of blubber, tallow candles, and train-oil; but imagine our surprise and delight at being treated instead to such Sybaritic luxuries as purple blueberries, cream, and preserved rose-leaves! Did Lucullus ever feast upon preserved rose-petals in his, vaunted pleasure-gardens of Tusculum? Never! The original recipe for the preparation of celestial37 ambrosia38 had been lost before ever "Lucullus supped with Lucullus"; but it was rediscovered by the despised inhabitants of Kamchatka, and is now offered, to the world as the first contribution of the Hyperboreans to gastronomical39 science. Take equal quantities of white loaf sugar and the petals of the Alpine40 rose, add a little juice of crushed blueberries, macerate41 together to a rich crimson42 paste, serve in the painted cups of trumpet43 honeysuckles, and imagine yourself feasting with the gods upon the summit of high Olympus!
As soon as possible after supper, I stretched myself out upon the floor under a convenient table, which answered practically and aesthetically44 all the purposes of a four-post bedstead, inflated45 my little rubber pillow, rolled myself up, à la mummy, in a blanket, and slept.
The Major, always an early riser, was awake on the following morning at daylight. Dodd and I, with a coincidence of opinion as rare as it was gratifying, regarded early rising as a relic46 of barbarism which no American, with a proper regard for the civilisation47 of the nineteenth century, would demean himself by encouraging. We had therefore entered into a mutual48 agreement upon this occasion to sleep peacefully until the "caravan," as Dodd irreverently styled it, should be ready to start, or at least until we should receive a summons for breakfast. Soon after daybreak, however, a terrific row began about something, and with a vague impression that I was attending a particularly animated49 primary meeting in the Ninth Ward3, I sprang up, knocked my head violently against a table-leg, opened my eyes in amazement50, and stared wildly at the situation. The Major, in a scanty51 déshabillé, was storming furiously about the room, cursing our frightened drivers in classical Russian, because the horses had all stampeded during the night and gone, as he said with expressive52 simplicity53, "Chort tolko znal kooda"—"the devil only knew where." This was rather an unfortunate beginning of our campaign; but in the course of two hours most of the wandering beasts were found, packs were adjusted, and after an unnecessary amount of profanity from the drivers, we turned our backs on Jerusalem and rode slowly away over the rolling grassy54 foot-hills of the Avachinski volcano.
It was a warm, beautiful Indian summer day, and a peculiar22 stillness and Sabbath-like quiet seemed to pervade55 all nature. The leaves of the scattering56 birches and alders57 along the trail hung motionless in the warm sunshine, the drowsy58 cawing of a crow upon a distant larch59 came to our ears with strange distinctness, and we even imagined that we could hear the regular throbbing60 of the surf upon the far-away coast. A faint murmurous61 hum of bees was in the air, and a rich fruity fragrance62 came up from the purple clusters of blueberries which our horses crushed under foot at every step. All things seemed to unite in tempting63 the tired traveller to stretch himself out on the warm fragrant64 grass, and spend the day in luxurious65 idleness, listening to the buzzing of the sleepy bees, inhaling66 the sweet smell of crushed blueberries, and watching the wreaths of curling smoke which rose lazily from the lofty crater67 of the great white volcano. I laughingly said to Dodd that instead of being in Siberia—the frozen land of Russian exiles—we had apparently68 been transported by some magical Arabian Night's contrivance to the clime of the "Lotus Eaters," which would account for the dreamy, drowsy influence of the atmosphere. "Clime of the Lotus Eaters be hanged!" he broke out impetuously, making a furious slap at his face; "the poet doesn't say that the Lotus Eaters were eaten up themselves by such cursed mosquitoes as these, and they're sufficient evidence that we're in Kamchatka—they don't grow as big as bumblebees in any other country!" I reminded him mildly that according to Walton—old Isaac—every misery69 we missed was a new mercy, and that, consequently, he ought to be thankful for every mosquito that didn't bite him. His only reply was that he "wished he had old Isaac there." What summary reprisals70 were to be made upon old Isaac I did not know, but it was evident that Dodd did not approve of his philosophy, or of my attempt at consolation71, so I desisted.
Maximof (max-im'-off), the chief of our drivers, labouring under a vague impression that, because everything was so still and quiet, it must be Sunday, rode slowly through the scattered72 clumps73 of silver birch which shaded the trail, chanting in a loud, sonorous74 voice a part of the service of the Greek Church, suspending this devotional exercise, occasionally, to curse his vagrant75 horses in a style which would have excited the envy and admiration76 of the most profane77 trooper of the army in Flanders.
"Oh! let my pray-er be-e-e (Here! you pig! Keep in the road!) set forth78 as the in-cense; and let the lifting up of my han-n-n-ds be—(Get up! you korova! You old, blind, broken-legged son of the Evil Spirit! Where you going to!)—an eve-n-ing sacrifice: let not my heart be inclined to—(Lie down again, will you! Thwack? Take that, you old sleepy-headed svinya proclatye!)—any e-vil thing; let me not be occupied with any evil works (Akh! What a horse! Bokh s'nim!). Set a watch before my mouth, and keep the do-o-o-r of my lips—(Whoa! You merzavitz! What did you run into that tree for? Ecca voron! Podletz! Slepoi takoi! Chart tibi vasmee!)"—and Maximof lapsed79 into a strain of such ingenious and metaphorical80 profanity that my imagination was left to supply the deficiencies of my imperfect comprehension. He did not seem to be conscious of any inconsistency between the chanted psalm81 and the profane interjections by which it was accompanied; but, even if he had been fully18 aware of it, he probably would have regarded the chanting as a fair offset82 to the profanity, and would have gone on his way with serene83 indifference84, fully assured that if he sang a sacred verse every time he swore, his celestial account must necessarily balance!
The road, or rather trail, from Jerusalem turned away to the westward85, and wound around the bases of a range of low bare mountains, through a dense86 forest of poplar and birch. Now and then we would come out into little grassy openings, where the ground was covered with blueberries, and every eye would be on the lookout87 for bears; but all was still and motionless—even the grasshoppers88 chirping89 sleepily and lazily, as if they too were about to yield to the somnolence90 which seemed to overpower all nature.
To escape the mosquitoes, whose relentless91 persecution92 became almost unendurable, we rode on more briskly through a broad, level valley, filled with a dense growth of tall umbelliferous plants, trotted93 swiftly up a little hill, and rode at a thundering gallop94 into the village of Korak, amid the howling and barking of a hundred and fifty half-wild dogs, the neighing of horses, running to and fro of men, and a scene of general confusion.
At Korak we changed most of our horses and men, ate an al fresco95 lunch under the projecting eaves of a mossy Kamchadal house, and started at two o'clock for Malqua, another village, fifty or sixty miles distant, across the watershed96 of the Kamchatka River. About sunset, after a brisk ride of fifteen or eighteen miles, we suddenly emerged from the dense forest of poplar, birch, and mountain ash which had shut in the trail, and came out into a little grassy opening, about an acre in extent, which seemed to have been made expressly with a view to camping out. It was surrounded on three sides by woods, and opened on the fourth into a wild mountain gorge97, choked up with rocks, logs, and a dense growth of underbrush and weeds. A clear cold stream tumbled in a succession of tinkling98 cascades99 down the dark ravine, and ran in a sandy flower-bordered channel through the grassy glade100, until it disappeared in the encircling forest. It was useless to look for a better place than this to spend the night, and we decided101 to stop while we still had daylight. To picket102 our horses, collect wood for a fire, hang over our teakettles, and pitch our little cotton tent, was the work of only a few moments, and we were soon lying at full length upon our warm bearskins, around our towel-covered candle-box, drinking hot tea, discussing Kamchatka, and watching the rosy103 flush of sunset as it slowly faded over the western mountains.
As I was lulled104 to sleep that night by the murmuring plash of falling water, and the tinkling of our horses' bells from the forest behind our tent, I thought that nothing could be more delightful105 than camp life in Kamchatka.
We reached Malqua on the following day, in a generally exhausted106 and used-up condition. The road had been terribly rough and broken, running through narrow ravines blocked up with rocks and fallen trees, across wet mossy swamps, and over rugged107 precipitous hills, where we dared not attempt to ride our horses. We were thrown repeatedly from our saddles; our provision-boxes were smashed against trees, and wet through by sinking in swamps; girths gave way, drivers swore, horses fell down, and we all came to grief, individually and collectively. The Major, unaccustomed as he was to these vicissitudes108 of Kamchatkan travel, held out like a Spartan109; but I noticed that for the last ten miles he rode upon a pillow, and shouted at short intervals110 to Dodd, who, with stoical imperturbability111, was riding quietly in advance: "Dodd! oh, Dodd! haven't we got most to that con-found-ed Malqua yet?" Dodd would strike his horse a sharp blow with a willow112 switch, turn half round in his saddle, and reply, with a quizzical smile, that we were "not most there yet, but would be soon!"—an equivocal sort of consolation which did not inspire us with much enthusiasm. At last, when it had already begun to grow dark, we saw a high column of white steam in the distance, which rose, Dodd and Viushin said, from the hot springs of Malqua; and in fifteen minutes we rode, tired, wet, and hungry, into the settlement. Supper was a secondary consideration with me that night. All I wanted was to crawl under a table where no one would step on me, and be let alone. I had never before felt such a vivid consciousness of my muscular and osseous system. Every separate bone and tendon in my body asserted its individual existence by a distinct and independent ache, and my back in twenty minutes was as inflexible113 as an iron ramrod. I felt a melancholy114 conviction that I never should measure five feet ten inches again, unless I could lie on some Procrustean115 bed and have my back stretched out to its original longitude116. Repeated perpendicular117 concussions118 had, I confidently believed, telescoped my spinal vertebrae into each other, so that nothing short of a surgical119 operation would ever restore them to their original positions. Revolving120 in my mind such mournful considerations, I fell asleep under a table, without even pulling off my boots.
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1
bridle
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| n.笼头，束缚；vt.抑制，约束；动怒 | |
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petals
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| n.花瓣( petal的名词复数 ) | |
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3
ward
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| n.守卫，监护，病房，行政区，由监护人或法院保护的人（尤指儿童）；vt.守护，躲开 | |
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fore
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| adv.在前面；adj.先前的；在前部的；n.前部 | |
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unintelligible
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| adj.无法了解的，难解的，莫明其妙的 | |
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geographical
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| adj.地理的；地区(性)的 | |
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commentator
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| n.注释者，解说者；实况广播评论员 | |
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8
triumphantly
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| ad.得意洋洋地；得胜地；成功地 | |
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9
distinguished
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| adj.卓越的，杰出的，著名的 | |
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utterly
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| adv.完全地，绝对地 | |
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saluted
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| v.欢迎，致敬( salute的过去式和过去分词 )；赞扬，赞颂 | |
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plank
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| n.板条，木板，政策要点，政纲条目 | |
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planks
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| （厚）木板( plank的名词复数 )； 政纲条目，政策要点 | |
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scoured
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| 走遍（某地）搜寻（人或物）( scour的过去式和过去分词 )； （用力）刷； 擦净； 擦亮 | |
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neatly
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| adv.整洁地，干净地，灵巧地，熟练地 | |
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propriety
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| n.正当行为；正当；适当 | |
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lithographs
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| n.平版印刷品( lithograph的名词复数 ) | |
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fully
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| adv.完全地，全部地，彻底地；充分地 | |
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attire
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| v.穿衣，装扮[同]array；n.衣着；盛装 | |
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diligently
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| ad.industriously;carefully | |
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amends
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| n. 赔偿 | |
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peculiar
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| adj.古怪的，异常的；特殊的，特有的 | |
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peculiarity
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| n.独特性，特色；特殊的东西；怪癖 | |
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locomotion
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| n.运动，移动 | |
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flexibility
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| n.柔韧性，弹性，（光的）折射性，灵活性 | |
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spinal
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| adj.针的，尖刺的，尖刺状突起的；adj.脊骨的，脊髓的 | |
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persevering
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| a.坚忍不拔的 | |
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gall
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| v.使烦恼，使焦躁，难堪；n.磨难 | |
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faculties
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| n.能力( faculty的名词复数 )；全体教职员；技巧；院 | |
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garnished
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| v.给（上餐桌的食物）加装饰( garnish的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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hemp
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| n.大麻；纤维 | |
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requisite
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| adj.需要的，必不可少的；n.必需品 | |
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clotted
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| adj.凝结的v.凝固( clot的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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profusion
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| n.挥霍；丰富 | |
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appreciation
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| n.评价；欣赏；感谢；领会，理解；价格上涨 | |
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broiled
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| a.烤过的 | |
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celestial
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| adj.天体的；天上的 | |
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ambrosia
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| n.神的食物；蜂食 | |
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gastronomical
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| adj.美食法的，美食学的 | |
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alpine
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| adj.高山的；n.高山植物 | |
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macerate
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| v.浸软，使消瘦 | |
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crimson
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| n./adj.深(绯)红色(的)；vi.脸变绯红色 | |
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43
trumpet
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| n.喇叭，喇叭声；v.吹喇叭，吹嘘 | |
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aesthetically
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| adv.美地，艺术地 | |
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inflated
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| adj.（价格）飞涨的；（通货）膨胀的；言过其实的；充了气的v.使充气（于轮胎、气球等）( inflate的过去式和过去分词 )；（使）膨胀；（使）通货膨胀；物价上涨 | |
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46
relic
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| n.神圣的遗物，遗迹，纪念物 | |
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civilisation
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| n.文明，文化，开化，教化 | |
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mutual
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| adj.相互的，彼此的；共同的，共有的 | |
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animated
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| adj.生气勃勃的，活跃的，愉快的 | |
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amazement
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| n.惊奇，惊讶 | |
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51
scanty
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| adj.缺乏的，仅有的，节省的，狭小的，不够的 | |
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52
expressive
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| adj.表现的，表达…的，富于表情的 | |
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53
simplicity
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| n.简单，简易；朴素；直率，单纯 | |
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grassy
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| adj.盖满草的；长满草的 | |
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pervade
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| v.弥漫，遍及，充满，渗透，漫延 | |
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56
scattering
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| n.[物]散射；散乱，分散；在媒介质中的散播adj.散乱的；分散在不同范围的；广泛扩散的；（选票）数量分散的v.散射(scatter的ing形式)；散布；驱散 | |
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57
alders
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| n.桤木( alder的名词复数 ) | |
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58
drowsy
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| adj.昏昏欲睡的，令人发困的 | |
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larch
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| n.落叶松 | |
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60
throbbing
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| a. 跳动的,悸动的 | |
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murmurous
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| adj.低声的 | |
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fragrance
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| n.芬芳，香味，香气 | |
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tempting
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| a.诱人的, 吸引人的 | |
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fragrant
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| adj.芬香的，馥郁的，愉快的 | |
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65
luxurious
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| adj.精美而昂贵的；豪华的 | |
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66
inhaling
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| v.吸入( inhale的现在分词 ) | |
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crater
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| n.火山口，弹坑 | |
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apparently
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| adv.显然地；表面上，似乎 | |
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misery
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| n.痛苦，苦恼，苦难；悲惨的境遇，贫苦 | |
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70
reprisals
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| n.报复（行为）( reprisal的名词复数 ) | |
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71
consolation
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| n.安慰，慰问 | |
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72
scattered
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| adj.分散的，稀疏的；散步的；疏疏落落的 | |
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73
clumps
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| n.（树、灌木、植物等的）丛、簇( clump的名词复数 )；（土、泥等）团；块；笨重的脚步声v.（树、灌木、植物等的）丛、簇( clump的第三人称单数 )；（土、泥等）团；块；笨重的脚步声 | |
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74
sonorous
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| adj.响亮的，回响的；adv.圆润低沉地；感人地；n.感人，堂皇 | |
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75
vagrant
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| n.流浪者，游民；adj.流浪的，漂泊不定的 | |
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76
admiration
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| n.钦佩，赞美，羡慕 | |
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77
profane
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| adj.亵神的，亵渎的；vt.亵渎，玷污 | |
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78
forth
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| adv.向前；向外，往外 | |
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79
lapsed
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| adj.流失的，堕落的v.退步( lapse的过去式和过去分词 )；陷入；倒退；丧失 | |
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80
metaphorical
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| a.隐喻的，比喻的 | |
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81
psalm
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| n.赞美诗，圣诗 | |
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82
offset
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| n.分支，补偿；v.抵消，补偿 | |
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83
serene
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| adj. 安详的，宁静的，平静的 | |
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84
indifference
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| n.不感兴趣，不关心，冷淡，不在乎 | |
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85
westward
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| n.西方，西部；adj.西方的，向西的；adv.向西 | |
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86
dense
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| a.密集的，稠密的，浓密的；密度大的 | |
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87
lookout
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| n.注意，前途，瞭望台 | |
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88
grasshoppers
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| n.蚱蜢( grasshopper的名词复数 )；蝗虫；蚂蚱；（孩子）矮小的 | |
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89
chirping
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| 鸟叫，虫鸣( chirp的现在分词 ) | |
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90
somnolence
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| n.想睡，梦幻；欲寐；嗜睡；嗜眠 | |
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91
relentless
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| adj.残酷的，不留情的，无怜悯心的 | |
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92
persecution
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| n. 迫害,烦扰 | |
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93
trotted
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| 小跑，急走( trot的过去分词 )； 匆匆忙忙地走 | |
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94
gallop
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| v./n.(马或骑马等)飞奔；飞速发展 | |
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95
fresco
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| n.壁画；vt.作壁画于 | |
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96
watershed
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| n.转折点，分水岭，分界线 | |
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97
gorge
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| n.咽喉，胃，暴食，山峡；v.塞饱，狼吞虎咽地吃 | |
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98
tinkling
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| n.丁当作响声 | |
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99
cascades
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| 倾泻( cascade的名词复数 )； 小瀑布（尤指一连串瀑布中的一支）； 瀑布状物； 倾泻（或涌出）的东西 | |
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100
glade
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| n.林间空地，一片表面有草的沼泽低地 | |
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101
decided
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| adj.决定了的，坚决的；明显的，明确的 | |
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102
picket
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| n.纠察队；警戒哨；v.设置纠察线；布置警卫 | |
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103
rosy
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| adj.美好的，乐观的，玫瑰色的 | |
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104
lulled
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| vt.使镇静，使安静（lull的过去式与过去分词形式） | |
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105
delightful
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| adj.令人高兴的，使人快乐的 | |
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106
exhausted
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| adj.极其疲惫的，精疲力尽的 | |
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107
rugged
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| adj.高低不平的，粗糙的，粗壮的，强健的 | |
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108
vicissitudes
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| n.变迁，世事变化；变迁兴衰( vicissitude的名词复数 )；盛衰兴废 | |
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109
spartan
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| adj.简朴的，刻苦的；n.斯巴达；斯巴达式的人 | |
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110
intervals
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| n.[军事]间隔( interval的名词复数 )；间隔时间；[数学]区间；（戏剧、电影或音乐会的）幕间休息 | |
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111
imperturbability
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| n.冷静；沉着 | |
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112
willow
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| n.柳树 | |
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113
inflexible
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| adj.不可改变的，不受影响的，不屈服的 | |
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114
melancholy
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| n.忧郁，愁思；adj.令人感伤（沮丧）的，忧郁的 | |
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115
procrustean
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| adj.强求一致的 | |
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116
longitude
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| n.经线，经度 | |
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117
perpendicular
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| adj.垂直的，直立的；n.垂直线，垂直的位置 | |
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118
concussions
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| n.震荡( concussion的名词复数 )；脑震荡；冲击；震动 | |
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119
surgical
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| adj.外科的，外科医生的，手术上的 | |
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120
revolving
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| adj.旋转的，轮转式的；循环的v.（使）旋转( revolve的现在分词 )；细想 | |
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