It was hard work on the following morning to climb again into the saddle, but the Major was insensible to all appeals for delay. Stern and inflexible1 as Rhadamanthus, he mounted stiffly upon his feather pillow and gave the signal for a start. With the aid of two sympathetic Kamchadals, who had perhaps experienced the misery2 of a stiff back, I succeeded in getting astride a fresh horse, and we rode away into the Genal (gen-ahl') valley—the garden of southern Kamchatka.
The village of Malqua lies on the northern slope of the Kamchatka River watershed3, surrounded by low barren granite4 hills, and reminded me a little in its situation of Virginia City, Nevada. It is noted5 chiefly for its hot mineral springs, but as we did not have time to visit these springs ourselves, we were compelled to take the natives' word for their temperature and their medicinal properties, and content ourselves with a distant view of the pillar of steam which marked their location.
North of the village opens the long narrow valley of Genal—the most beautiful as well as the most fertile spot in all the Kamchatkan peninsula. It is about thirty miles in length, and averages three in breadth, and is bounded on both sides by chains of high snow-covered mountains, which stretch away from Malqua in a long vista6 of white ragged7 peaks and sharp cliffs, almost to the head-waters of the Kamchatka River. A small stream runs in a tortuous8 course through the valley, fringed with long wild grass four or five feet in height, and shaded here and there by clumps9 of birches, willows10, and alders12. The foliage13 was beginning already to assume the brilliant colours of early autumn, and broad stripes of crimson14, yellow, and green ran horizontally along the mountain sides, marking on a splendid chromatic15 scale the successive zones of vegetation as they rose in regular gradation from the level of the valley to the pure glittering snows of the higher peaks.
As we approached the middle of the valley just before noon, the scenery assumed a vividness of colour and grandeur16 of outline which drew forth17 the most enthusiastic exclamations18 of delight from our little party. For twenty-five miles in each direction lay the sunny valley, through which the Genal River was stretched like a tangled19 chain of silver, linking together the scattered20 clumps of birch and thickets21 of alder11, which at intervals23 diversified24 its banks. Like the Happy Valley of Rasselas, it seemed to be shut out from the rest of the world by impassable mountains, whose snowy peaks and pinnacles25 rivalled in picturesque26 beauty, in variety and singularity of form, the wildest dream of eastern architect. Half down their sides was a broad horizontal belt of dark-green pines, thrown into strong and beautiful contrast with the pure white snow of the higher summits and the rich crimson of the mountain ash which flamed below. Here and there the mountains had been cleft27 asunder28 by some Titanic29 power, leaving deep narrow gorges30 and wild ravines where the sunlight could hardly penetrate31, and the eye was lost in soft purple haze32. Imagine with all this, a warm fragrant33 atmosphere and a deep blue sky in which floated a few clouds, too ethereal even to cast shadows, and you will perhaps have a faint idea of one of the most beautiful landscapes in all Kamchatka. The Sierra Nevadas may afford views of more savage34 wildness, but nowhere in California or Nevada have I ever seen the distinctive35 features of both winter and summer—snow and roses, bare granite and brilliantly coloured foliage—blended into so harmonious36 a picture as that presented by the Genal valley on a sunshiny day in early autumn.
Dodd and I devoted37 most of our leisure time during the afternoon to picking and eating berries. Galloping38 furiously ahead until we had left the caravan40 several miles behind, we would lie down in a particularly luxuriant thicket22 by the river bank, tie our horses to our feet, and bask41 in the sunshine and feast upon yellow honeyed "moroshkas" (mo-ro'-shkas) and the dark purple globes of delicious blueberries, until our clothes were stained with crimson spots, and our faces and hands resembled those of a couple of Comanches painted for the war-path.
The sun was yet an hour high when we approached the native village of Genal. We passed a field where men and women were engaged in cutting hay with rude sickles42, returned their stare of amazement43 with unruffled serenity44, and rode on until the trail suddenly broke off into a river beyond which stood the village.
Kneeling upon our saddles we succeeded in fording the shallow stream without getting wet, but in a moment we came to another of about the same size. We forded that, and were confronted by a third. This we also passed, but at the appearance of the fourth river the Major shouted despairingly to Dodd, "Ay! Dodd! How many pagánni rivers do we have to wade45 through in getting to this beastly village?" "Only one," replied Dodd composedly. "One! Then how many times does this one river run past this one settlement?" "Five times," was the calm response. "You see," he explained soberly, "these poor Kamchadals haven't got but one river to fish in, and that isn't a very big one, so they have made it run past their settlement five times, and by this ingenious contrivance they catch five times as many salmon46 as they would if it only passed once!" The Major was surprised into silence, and seemed to be considering some abstruse47 problem. Finally he raised his eyes from the pommel of his saddle, transfixed the guilty Dodd with a glance of severe rebuke48, and demanded solemnly, "How many times must a given fish swim past a given settlement, in order to supply the population with food, provided the fish is caught every time he goes past?" This reductio ad absurdum was too much for Dodd's gravity; he burst into a laugh, and digging his heels into his horse's ribs49, dashed with a great splatter into the fourth arm or bend of the river, and rode up on the other side into the village of Genal.
We took up our quarters at the house of the "starosta" (stah'-ro-stah) or head man of the village, and spread our bearskins out on the clean white floor of a low room, papered in a funny way with old copies of the Illustrated50 London News. A coloured American lithograph51, representing the kiss of reconciliation52 between two offended lovers, hung against the wall on one side, and was evidently regarded with a good deal of pride by the proprietor53, as affording incontestable evidence of culture and refined taste, and proving his familiar acquaintance with American art, and the manners and customs of American society.
Dodd and I, notwithstanding our fatigue54, devoted the evening entirely55 to literary pursuits; searching diligently56 with tallow candles over the wall and ceiling for consecutive57 numbers of the Illustrated London News, reading court gossip from a birch plank58 in the corner, and obituaries59 of distinguished60 Englishmen from the back of a door. By dint61 of industry and perseverance62 we finished one whole side of the house before bedtime, and having gained a vast amount of valuable information with regard to the war in New Zealand, we were encouraged to pursue our investigations63 in the morning upon the three remaining sides and the ceiling. To our great regret, however, we were obliged to start on our pilgrimage without having time to find out how that war terminated, and we have never been able to ascertain64 to this day! Long before six o'clock we were off with fresh horses for a long ride of ninety versts to Pushchin (poosh′-chin).
The costumes of our little party had now assumed a very motley and brigandish appearance, every individual having discarded from time to time, such articles of his civilised dress as proved to be inconvenient65 or uncomfortable, and adopted various picturesque substitutes, which filled more nearly the requirements of a barbarous life. Dodd had thrown away his cap, and tied a scarlet66 and yellow handkerchief around his head. Viushin had ornamented67 his hat with a long streamer of crimson ribbon, which floated gayly in the wind like a whip-pennant. A blue hunting-shirt and a red Turkish fez had superseded68 my uniform coat and cap. We all carried rifles slung69 across our backs, and revolvers belted around our waists, and were transformed generally into as fantastic brigands70 as ever sallied forth from the passes of the Apennines to levy71 blackmail72 upon unwary travellers. A timid tourist, meeting us as we galloped73 furiously across the plain toward Pushchin would have fallen on his knees and pulled out his purse without asking any unnecessary questions.
Being well mounted on fresh, spirited horses, the Major, Dodd, Viushin, and I rode far in advance of the rest of the party throughout the day. Late in the afternoon, as we were going at a slashing74 rate across the level plain known as the Kamchatkan tundra75, [Footnote: A treeless expanse carpeted with moss76 and low berry-bushes.] the Major suddenly drew his horse violently back on his haunches, wheeled half round, and shouted, "Medveid! medveid!" and a large black bear rose silently out of the long grass at his very feet.
The excitement, I can conscientiously77 affirm, was terrific. Viushin unslung his double-barrelled fowling-piece, and proceeded to pepper him with duck-shot; Dodd tugged78 at his revolver with frantic79 energy while his horse ran away with him over the plain; the Major dropped his bridle80, and implored81 me by all I held sacred not to shoot him, while the horses plunged82, kicked, and snorted in the most animated83 manner. The only calm and self-possessed individual in the whole party was the bear! He surveyed the situation coolly for a few seconds, and then started at an awkward gallop39 for the woods. In an instant our party recovered its conjoint presence of mind, and charged with the most reckless heroism84 upon his flying footsteps, shouting frantically85 to "stop him!" popping away in the most determined86 and unterrified manner with four revolvers and a shotgun, and performing prodigies87 of valour in the endeavour to capture the ferocious88 beast, without getting in his way or coming nearer to him than a hundred yards. All was in vain. The bear vanished in the forest like a flying shadow; and, presuming from his known ferocity and vindictiveness89 that he had prepared an ambuscade for us in the woods, we deemed it the better part of valour to abandon the pursuit. Upon comparing notes, we found that we had all been similarly impressed with his enormous size, his shagginess, and his generally savage appearance, and had all been inspired at the same moment with an irresistible90 inclination91 to take him by the throat and rip him open with a bowie-knife, in a manner so beautifully illustrated by the old geographies. Nothing but the fractiousness of our horses and the rapidity of his flight had prevented this desirable consummation. The Major even declared positively92 that he had seen the bear a long time before, and only rode over him "to scare him up," and said almost in the words of the redoubtable93 Falstaff, "that if we would do him honour for it, so; if not, we might scare up the next bear ourselves." Looking at the matter calmly and dispassionately afterward94, I thought it extremely probable that if another bear did not scare the Major up, he never would go out of his way to scare up another bear. We felt it to be our duty, however, to caution him against imperilling the success of our expedition by such reckless exploits in the way of scaring up wild beasts.
Long before we reached Pushchin it grew dark; but our tired horses freshened up after sunset, with the cool evening air, and about eight o'clock we heard the distant howling of dogs, which we had already come to associate with hot tea, rest, and sleep. In twenty minutes we were lying comfortably on our bearskins in a Kamchadal house.
We had made sixty miles since daybreak; but the road had been good. We were becoming more accustomed to horseback riding, and were by no means so tired as we had been at Malqua. Only thirty versts now intervened between us and the head-waters of the Kamchatka River, where we were to abandon our horses and float down two hundred and fifty miles on rafts or in native canoes.
A sharp trot95 of four hours over a level plain brought us on the following morning to Sherom (sheh-rome′), where rafts had already been prepared for our use.
It was with no little regret that I ended for the present my horseback travel. The life suited me in every respect, and I could not recall any previous journey which had ever afforded me more pure, healthful enjoyment96, or seemed more like a delightful97 pleasure excursion than this. All Siberia, however, lay before us; and our regret at leaving scenes which we should never again revisit was relieved by anticipations98 of future adventures equally novel, and prospective99 scenery grander even than anything which we had yet witnessed.
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1
inflexible
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| adj.不可改变的，不受影响的，不屈服的 | |
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misery
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| n.痛苦，苦恼，苦难；悲惨的境遇，贫苦 | |
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watershed
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| n.转折点，分水岭，分界线 | |
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granite
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| adj.花岗岩，花岗石 | |
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noted
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| adj.著名的，知名的 | |
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vista
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| n.远景，深景，展望，回想 | |
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ragged
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| adj.衣衫褴褛的，粗糙的，刺耳的 | |
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tortuous
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| adj.弯弯曲曲的，蜿蜒的 | |
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clumps
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| n.（树、灌木、植物等的）丛、簇( clump的名词复数 )；（土、泥等）团；块；笨重的脚步声v.（树、灌木、植物等的）丛、簇( clump的第三人称单数 )；（土、泥等）团；块；笨重的脚步声 | |
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willows
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| n.柳树( willow的名词复数 )；柳木 | |
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alder
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| n.赤杨树 | |
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alders
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| n.桤木( alder的名词复数 ) | |
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foliage
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| n.叶子，树叶，簇叶 | |
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crimson
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| n./adj.深(绯)红色(的)；vi.脸变绯红色 | |
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chromatic
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| adj.色彩的，颜色的 | |
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grandeur
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| n.伟大，崇高，宏伟，庄严，豪华 | |
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forth
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| adv.向前；向外，往外 | |
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exclamations
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| n.呼喊( exclamation的名词复数 )；感叹；感叹语；感叹词 | |
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tangled
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| adj. 纠缠的，紊乱的 动词tangle的过去式和过去分词 | |
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scattered
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| adj.分散的，稀疏的；散步的；疏疏落落的 | |
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thickets
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| n.灌木丛( thicket的名词复数 )；丛状物 | |
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thicket
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| n.灌木丛，树林 | |
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intervals
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| n.[军事]间隔( interval的名词复数 )；间隔时间；[数学]区间；（戏剧、电影或音乐会的）幕间休息 | |
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diversified
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| adj.多样化的，多种经营的v.使多样化，多样化( diversify的过去式和过去分词 )；进入新的商业领域 | |
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pinnacles
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| 顶峰( pinnacle的名词复数 )； 顶点； 尖顶； 小尖塔 | |
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picturesque
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| adj.美丽如画的，（语言）生动的，绘声绘色的 | |
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cleft
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| n.裂缝；adj.裂开的 | |
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asunder
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| adj.分离的，化为碎片 | |
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titanic
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| adj.巨人的，庞大的，强大的 | |
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gorges
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| n.山峡，峡谷( gorge的名词复数 )；咽喉v.（用食物把自己）塞饱，填饱( gorge的第三人称单数 )；作呕 | |
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penetrate
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| v.透(渗)入；刺入，刺穿；洞察，了解 | |
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haze
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| n.霾，烟雾；懵懂，迷糊；vi.(over)变模糊 | |
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fragrant
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| adj.芬香的，馥郁的，愉快的 | |
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savage
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| adj.野蛮的；凶恶的，残暴的；n.未开化的人 | |
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distinctive
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| adj.特别的，有特色的，与众不同的 | |
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harmonious
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| adj.和睦的，调和的，和谐的，协调的 | |
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devoted
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| adj.忠诚的，忠实的，热心的，献身于...的 | |
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galloping
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| adj. 飞驰的, 急性的 动词gallop的现在分词形式 | |
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gallop
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| v./n.(马或骑马等)飞奔；飞速发展 | |
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caravan
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| n.大蓬车；活动房屋 | |
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bask
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| vt.取暖，晒太阳，沐浴于 | |
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sickles
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| n.镰刀( sickle的名词复数 ) | |
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amazement
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| n.惊奇，惊讶 | |
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serenity
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| n.宁静，沉着，晴朗 | |
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wade
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| v.跋涉，涉水；n.跋涉 | |
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salmon
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| n.鲑，大马哈鱼，橙红色的 | |
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abstruse
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| adj.深奥的，难解的 | |
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rebuke
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| v.指责，非难，斥责 [反]praise | |
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ribs
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| n.肋骨( rib的名词复数 )；（船或屋顶等的）肋拱；肋骨状的东西；（织物的）凸条花纹 | |
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illustrated
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| adj. 有插图的，列举的 动词illustrate的过去式和过去分词 | |
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lithograph
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| n.平板印刷，平板画；v.用平版印刷 | |
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reconciliation
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| n.和解，和谐，一致 | |
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proprietor
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| n.所有人；业主；经营者 | |
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fatigue
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| n.疲劳，劳累 | |
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entirely
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| ad.全部地，完整地；完全地，彻底地 | |
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diligently
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| ad.industriously;carefully | |
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consecutive
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| adj.连续的，联贯的，始终一贯的 | |
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plank
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| n.板条，木板，政策要点，政纲条目 | |
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obituaries
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| 讣告，讣闻( obituary的名词复数 ) | |
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distinguished
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| adj.卓越的，杰出的，著名的 | |
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dint
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| n.由于，靠；凹坑 | |
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perseverance
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| n.坚持不懈，不屈不挠 | |
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investigations
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| （正式的）调查( investigation的名词复数 )； 侦查； 科学研究； 学术研究 | |
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ascertain
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| vt.发现，确定，查明，弄清 | |
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inconvenient
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| adj.不方便的，令人感到麻烦的 | |
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scarlet
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| n.深红色，绯红色，红衣；adj.绯红色的 | |
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ornamented
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| adj.花式字体的v.装饰，点缀，美化( ornament的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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superseded
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| [医]被代替的，废弃的 | |
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slung
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| 抛( sling的过去式和过去分词 )； 吊挂； 遣送； 押往 | |
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brigands
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| n.土匪，强盗( brigand的名词复数 ) | |
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levy
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| n.征收税或其他款项，征收额 | |
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blackmail
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| n.讹诈，敲诈，勒索，胁迫，恫吓 | |
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galloped
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| （使马）飞奔，奔驰( gallop的过去式和过去分词 )； 快速做[说]某事 | |
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slashing
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| adj.尖锐的；苛刻的；鲜明的；乱砍的v.挥砍( slash的现在分词 )；鞭打；割破；削减 | |
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tundra
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| n.苔原，冻土地带 | |
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moss
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| n.苔，藓，地衣 | |
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conscientiously
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| adv.凭良心地；认真地，负责尽职地；老老实实 | |
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tugged
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| v.用力拉，使劲拉，猛扯( tug的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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frantic
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| adj.狂乱的，错乱的，激昂的 | |
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bridle
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| n.笼头，束缚；vt.抑制，约束；动怒 | |
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implored
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| 恳求或乞求（某人）( implore的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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82
plunged
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| v.颠簸( plunge的过去式和过去分词 )；暴跌；骤降；突降 | |
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animated
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| adj.生气勃勃的，活跃的，愉快的 | |
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84
heroism
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| n.大无畏精神，英勇 | |
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85
frantically
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| ad.发狂地, 发疯地 | |
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86
determined
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| adj.坚定的；有决心的 | |
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87
prodigies
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| n.奇才，天才（尤指神童）( prodigy的名词复数 ) | |
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88
ferocious
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| adj.凶猛的，残暴的，极度的，十分强烈的 | |
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89
vindictiveness
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| 恶毒；怀恨在心 | |
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90
irresistible
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| adj.非常诱人的，无法拒绝的，无法抗拒的 | |
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91
inclination
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| n.倾斜；点头；弯腰；斜坡；倾度；倾向；爱好 | |
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positively
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| adv.明确地，断然，坚决地；实在，确实 | |
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redoubtable
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| adj.可敬的；可怕的 | |
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afterward
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| adv.后来；以后 | |
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95
trot
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| n.疾走，慢跑；n.老太婆；现成译本；(复数）trots:腹泻（与the 连用）；v.小跑，快步走，赶紧 | |
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96
enjoyment
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| n.乐趣；享有；享用 | |
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97
delightful
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| adj.令人高兴的，使人快乐的 | |
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98
anticipations
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| 预期( anticipation的名词复数 )； 预测； （信托财产收益的）预支； 预期的事物 | |
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99
prospective
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| adj.预期的，未来的，前瞻性的 | |
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