The valley of this river is unquestionably the most fertile part of the whole Kamchatkan peninsula. Nearly all of the villages that we passed were surrounded by fields of rye and neatly1 fenced gardens; the banks everywhere were either covered with timber or waving with wild grass five feet in height; and the luxuriant growth in many places of flowers and weeds testified to the richness of the soil and the warm humidity of the climate. Primroses2, cowslips, marsh3 violets, buttercups, wild-roses, cinquefoil, iris4, and azure5 larkspur grow everywhere throughout the valley in the greatest abundance; and a peculiar6 species of umbelliferae, with hollow-jointed stems, attains7 in many places a height of six feet, and grows so densely9 that its huge serrated leaves hide a man from sight at a distance of a few yards. All this is the growth of a single summer.
There are twelve native settlements between the head-waters of the river and the Kluchefskoi volcano, and nearly all are situated10 in picturesque11 locations, and surrounded by gardens and fields of rye. Nowhere does the traveller see any evidences of the barrenness, sterility12, and frigid13 desolation which have always been associated with the name of Kamchatka.
After leaving our hospitable14 native friends and our imperial dignity at Milkova, on Monday morning, we floated slowly down the river for three days, catching15 distant glimpses of the snowy mountain ranges which bounded the valley, roaming through the woods in search of bears and wild cherries, camping at night on the river-bank among the trees, and living generally a wild, free, delightful16 life. We passed the native settlements of Kirgánic (keer-gan'-ic), Márshura (mar'-shoo-rah), Shchápina (shchap'-in-ah), and Tolbachic, where we were received with boundless17 hospitality; and on Wednesday, September 13th, camped in the woods south of Kazerefski (kaz-er-ef'-ski), only a hundred and twenty versts distant from the village of Kluchei (kloo-chay'). It rained nearly all day Wednesday, and we camped at night among the dripping trees, with many apprehensions18 that the storm would hide the magnificent scenery of the lower Kamchatka, through which we were about to pass. It cleared away, however, before midnight; and I was awakened19 at an early hour in the morning by a shouted summons from Dodd to get up and look at the mountains. There was hardly a breath of air astir, and the atmosphere had that peculiar crystalline transparency which may sometimes be seen in California. A heavy hoar-frost lay white on the boats and grass, and a few withered20 leaves dropped wavering through the still cool air from the yellow birch trees which overhung our tent. There was not a sound to break harshly upon the silence of dawn; and only the tracks of wild reindeer21 and prowling wolves, on the smooth sandy beach showed that there was life in the quiet lonely wilderness22 around us. The sun had not yet risen, but the eastern heavens were aglare with yellow light, even up to the morning-star, which, although "paling its ineffectual fires," still maintained its position as a glittering outpost between the contending powers of night and day. Far away to the north-eastward, over the yellow forest, in soft purple relief against the red sunrise, stood the high sharp peaks of Kluchei, grouped around the central wedge-like cone23 of the magnificent Kluchefskoi volcano. Nearly a month before I had seen these noble mountains from the tossing deck of a little brig, seventy-five miles at sea; but I little thought then that I should see them again from a lonely camp in the woods of the Kamchatka River.
For nearly half an hour Dodd and I sat quietly on the beach, absent-mindedly throwing pebbles24 into the still water, watching the illumination of the distant mountains by the rising sun, and talking over the adventures which we had experienced since leaving Petropavlovsk. With what different impressions had I come to look at Siberian life since I first saw the precipitous coast of Kamchatka looming25 up out of the blue water of the Pacific!
Then it was an unknown, mysterious land of glaciers26 and snowy mountains, filled with possibilities of adventure, but lonely and forbidding in its uninhabited wildness. Now it was no longer lonely or desolate27. Every mountain peak was associated with some hospitable village nestled at its feet; every little stream was connected with the great world of human interests by some pleasant recollection of camp life. The possibilities of adventure were still there, but the imaginary loneliness and desolation had vanished with one week's experience. I thought of the vague conceptions which I had formed in America of this beautiful country, and tried to compare them with the more recent impressions by which they had been crowded out, but the effort was vain. I could not surround myself again with the lost intellectual atmosphere of civilisation28, nor reconcile those earlier anticipations29 with this strangely different experience. The absurd fancies, which had seemed so vivid and so true only three months before, had now faded away into the half-remembered imagery of a dream, and nothing was real but the tranquil30 river which flowed at my feet, the birch tree which dropped its yellow leaves upon my head, and the far-away purple mountains.
I was roused from my reverie by the furious beating of a tin mess-kettle, which was the summons to breakfast. In half an hour breakfast was despatched, the tent struck, camp equipage packed up, and we were again under way. We floated all day down the river toward Kluchei, getting ever-changing views of the mountains as they were thrown into new and picturesque combinations by our motion to the northward31. We reached Kazerefski at dark, and, changing our crew, continued our voyage throughout the night. At daybreak on Friday we passed Kristi (kris-tee'), and at two o'clock in the afternoon arrived at Kluchei, having been just eleven days out from Petropavlovsk.
The village of Kluchei is situated in an open plain on the right bank of the Kamchatka River, at the very foot of the magnificent Kluchefskoi volcano, and has nothing to distinguish it from other Kamchadal towns, except the boldness and picturesque beauty of its situation. It lies exactly in the midst of the group of superb isolated32 peaks which guard the entrance to the river, and is shadowed over frequently by the dense8, black smoke of two volcanoes. It was founded early in the eighteenth century by a few Russian peasants who were taken from their homes in central Russia, and sent with seeds and farming utensils33 to start a colony in far-away Kamchatka. After a long adventurous34 journey of six thousand miles across Asia by way of Tobolsk (to-bolsk'), Irkutsk (eer-kootsk'), Yakutsk (yah-kootsk'), and Kolyma (kol-e-mah'), the little band of involuntary emigrants35 finally reached the peninsula, and settled boldly on the Kamchatka River, under the shadow of the great volcano. Here they and their descendants have lived for more than a hundred years, until they have almost forgotten how they came there and by whom they were sent. Notwithstanding the activity and frequent eruption37 of the two volcanoes behind the village, its location never has been changed, and its inhabitants have come to regard with indifference38 the occasional mutterings of warning which come from the depths of the burning craters40, and the showers of ashes which are frequently sifted41 over their houses and fields. Never having heard of Herculaneum or Pompeii, they do not associate any possible danger with the fleecy cloud of smoke which floats in pleasant weather from the broken summit of Kluchefskoi, or the low thunderings by which its smaller, but equally dangerous, neighbour asserts its wakefulness during the long winter nights. Another century may perhaps elapse without bringing any serious disaster upon the little village; but after hearing the Kluchefskoi volcano rumble42 at a distance of sixty miles, and seeing the dense volumes of black vapour which it occasionally emitted, I felt entirely43 satisfied to give its volcanic44 majesty45 a wide berth46, and wondered at the boldness of the Kamchadals in selecting such a site for their settlement.
The Kluchefskoi is one of the highest as well as one of the most uninterruptedly active volcanoes in all the great volcanic chain of the North Pacific. Since the seventeenth century very few years have elapsed without an eruption of greater or less violence, and even now, at irregular intervals47 of a few months, it bursts into flame and scatters48 ashes over the whole width of the peninsula and on both seas. The snow in winter is frequently so covered with ashes for twenty-five miles around Kluchei that travel upon sledges49 becomes almost impossible. Many years ago, according to the accounts of the natives, there was an eruption of terrible magnificence. It began in the middle of a clear, dark winter's night, with loud thunderings and tremblings of the earth, which startled the inhabitants of Kluchei from their sleep and brought them in affright to their doors. Far up in the dark winter's sky, 16,000 feet above their heads, blazed a column of lurid50 flame from the crater39, crowned by a great volume of fire-lighted vapour. Amid loud rumblings, and dull reverberations from the interior, the molten lava51 began to flow in broad fiery52 rivers down the snow-covered mountain side, until for half the distance to its base it was one glowing mass of fire which lighted, up the villages of Kristi, Kazerefski, and Kluchei like the sun, and illuminated53 the whole country within a radius54 of twenty-five miles. This eruption is said to have scattered55 ashes over the peninsula for three hundred versts to a depth of an inch and a half.
The lava has never yet descended56 much, if any, below the snow line; but I see no reason why it may not at some future time overwhelm the settlement of Kluchei and fill the channel of the Kamchatka River with a fiery flood.
The volcano, so far as I know, has never been ascended57, and its reported height, 16,500 feet, is probably the approximative estimate of some Russian officer. It is certainly, however, the highest peak of the Kamchatkan peninsula, and is more likely to exceed 16,000 feet than fall below it. We felt a strong temptation to try to scale its smooth snowy sides and peer over into its smoking crater; but it would have been folly58 to make the attempt without two or three weeks' training, and we had not the time to spare. The mountain is nearly a perfect cone, and from the village of Kluchei it is so deceitfully foreshortened that the last 3,000 feet appear to be absolutely perpendicular60. There is another volcano whose name, if it have any, I could not ascertain61, standing36 a short distance south-east of the Kluchefskoi, and connected with it by an irregular broken ridge62. It does not approach the latter in height, but it seems to draw its fiery supplies from the same source, and is constantly puffing63 out black vapour, which an east wind drives in great clouds across the white sides of Kluchefskoi until it is sometimes almost hidden from sight.
We were entertained at Kluchei in the large comfortable house of the starosta, or local magistrate64 of the village. The walls of our room were gayly hung with figured calico, the ceiling was covered with white cotton drill, and the rude pine furniture was scoured65 with soap and sand to the last attainable66 degree of cleanliness. A coarsely executed picture, which I took to be Moses, hung in a gilt67 frame in the corner; but the sensible prophet had apparently68 shut his eyes to avoid the smoke of the innumerable candles which had been burned in his honour, and the expression of his face was somewhat marred69 in consequence. Table-cloths of American manufacture were spread on the tables, pots of flowers stood in the curtained windows, a little mirror hung against the wall opposite the door, and all the little fixtures70 and rude ornaments71 of the room were disposed with a taste and a view to general effect which the masculine mind may admire but never can imitate. American art, too, had lent a grace to this cottage in the wilderness, for the back of one of the doors was embellished72 with pictorial73 sketches74 of Virginian life and scenery from the skilful75 pencil of Porte Crayon. I thought of the well-known lines of Pope:
"The things, we know, are neither rich nor rare,
But wonder how the d—— they came there."
In such comfortable, not to say luxurious76, quarters as these, we succeeded, of course, in passing away pleasantly the remainder of the day.
At Kluchei we were called upon to decide what route we would adopt in our journey to the northward. The shortest, and in many respects the best, was that usually taken by the Russian traders—crossing the central range of mountains to Tigil (tee-gill'), by the pass of the Yolofka (yo-loff'-ka), and then following up the west coast of the peninsula to the head of the Okhotsk Sea. The only objections to this were the lateness of the season and the probability of finding deep snow in the mountain passes. Our only alternative was to continue our journey from Kluchei up the eastern coast to a settlement called Dranka (dran'-kah), where the mountains sank into insignificant77 hills, and cross there to the Kamchadal village of Lesnoi (less-noi') on the Okhotsk Sea. This route was considerably78 longer than the one by the Yolofka pass, but its practicability was much more certain.
After a great many prolonged consultations79 with sundry80 natives, who were supposed to know something about the country, but who carefully avoided responsibility by telling as little as possible, the Major concluded to try the Yolofka pass, and ordered canoes to be ready on Saturday morning to carry us up the Yolofka River.
At the worst, we could only fail to get over the mountains, and there would be time enough then to return to Kluchei, and try the other route before the opening of winter.
As soon as we had decided81 the momentous82 question of our route, we gave ourselves up to the unrestrained enjoyment83 of the few pleasures which the small and sedate84 village of Kluchei afforded. There was no afternoon promenade85 where we could, as the Russians say, "show ourselves and see the people"; nor would an exhibition of our tattered86 and weather-stained garments on a public promenade have been quite the proper thing, had it been possible. We must try something else. The only places of amusement of which we could hear were the village bath-house and the church; and the Major and I started out, late in the afternoon, with the intention of "doing" these points of interest in the most approved style of modern tourists. For obvious reasons we took the bath-house first. Taking a steam-bath was a very mild sort of dissipation; and if it were true that "cleanliness was next to godliness," the bath-house certainly should precede the church. I had often heard Dodd speak of the "black baths" of the Kamchadals; and without knowing definitely what he meant, I had a sort of vague impression that these "black baths" were taken in some inky fluid of Kamchatkan manufacture, which possessed87 peculiar detersive properties. I could think of no other reason than this for calling a bath "black." Upon entering the "black bath," however, at Kluchei, I saw my mistake, and acknowledged at once the appropriateness of the adjective. Leaving our clothes in a little rude entry, which answered the purposes without affording any of the conveniences of a dressing-room, we stooped to a low fur-clad door and entered the bath-room proper, which was certainly dark enough and black enough to justify88 the gloomiest, murkiest89 adjective in the language. A tallow candle, which was burning feebly on the floor, gave just light enough to distinguish the outlines of a low, bare apartment, about ten feet square, built solidly of unhewn logs, without a single opening for the admission of air or light. Every square inch of the walls and ceiling was perfectly90 black with a sooty deposit from the clouds of smoke with which the room had been filled in the process of heating. A large pile of stones, with a hollow place underneath91 for a fire, stood in one end of the room, and a series of broad steps, which did not seem to lead anywhere, occupied the other. As soon as the fire had gone out, the chimney-hole had been closed and hermetically sealed, and the pile of hot stones was now radiating a fierce dry heat, which made _res_piration a painful duty, and _per_spiration an unpleasant necessity. The presiding spirit of this dark, infernal place of torture soon made his appearance in the shape of a long-haired, naked Kamchadal, and proceeded to throw water upon the pile of red-hot stones until they hissed92 like a locomotive, and the candle burned blue in the centre of a steamy halo. I thought it was hot before, but it was a Siberian winter compared with the temperature which this manoeuvre93 produced. My very bones seemed melting with fervent94 heat. After getting the air of the room as nearly as possible up to 212°, the native seized me by the arm, spread me out on the lowest of the flight of steps, poured boiling suds over my face and feet with reckless impartiality95, and proceeded to knead me up, as if he fully59 intended to separate me into my original elements. I will not attempt to describe the number, the variety, and the diabolical96 ingenuity97 of the tortures to which I was subjected during the next twenty minutes. I was scrubbed, rolled, pounded, drenched98 with cold water and scalded with hot, beaten with bundles of birch twigs99, rubbed down with wads of hemp100 which scraped like brickbats, and finally left to recover my breath upon the highest and hottest step of the whole stairway. A douse101 of cold water finally put an end to the ordeal102 and to my misery103; and, groping my way out into the entry, I proceeded, with chattering104 teeth, to dress. In a moment I was joined by the Major, and we resumed our walk, feeling like disembodied spirits.
Owing to the lateness of the hour, we were compelled to postpone105 indefinitely our visit to the church; but we had been sufficiently106 amused for one day, and returned to the house satisfied, if not delighted, with our experience of Kamchatkan black baths.
The evening was spent in questioning the inhabitants of the village about the northern part of the peninsula, and the facilities for travel among the wandering Koraks; and before nine o'clock we went to bed, in order that we might make an early start on the following morning.
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1
neatly
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| adv.整洁地，干净地，灵巧地，熟练地 | |
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primroses
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| n.报春花( primrose的名词复数 )；淡黄色；追求享乐（招至恶果） | |
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marsh
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| n.沼泽，湿地 | |
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iris
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| n.虹膜，彩虹 | |
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azure
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| adj.天蓝色的，蔚蓝色的 | |
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peculiar
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| adj.古怪的，异常的；特殊的，特有的 | |
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attains
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| （通常经过努力）实现( attain的第三人称单数 )； 达到； 获得； 达到（某年龄、水平、状况） | |
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8
dense
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| a.密集的，稠密的，浓密的；密度大的 | |
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9
densely
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| ad.密集地；浓厚地 | |
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10
situated
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| adj.坐落在...的，处于某种境地的 | |
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picturesque
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| adj.美丽如画的，（语言）生动的，绘声绘色的 | |
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sterility
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| n.不生育，不结果，贫瘠，消毒，无菌 | |
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frigid
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| adj.寒冷的，凛冽的；冷淡的；拘禁的 | |
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hospitable
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| adj.好客的；宽容的；有利的，适宜的 | |
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15
catching
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| adj.易传染的，有魅力的，迷人的，接住 | |
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delightful
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| adj.令人高兴的，使人快乐的 | |
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boundless
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| adj.无限的；无边无际的；巨大的 | |
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apprehensions
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| 疑惧 | |
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19
awakened
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| v.（使）醒( awaken的过去式和过去分词 )；（使）觉醒；弄醒；（使）意识到 | |
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withered
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| adj. 枯萎的，干瘪的，（人身体的部分器官）因病萎缩的或未发育良好的 动词wither的过去式和过去分词形式 | |
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reindeer
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| n.驯鹿 | |
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wilderness
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| n.杳无人烟的一片陆地、水等，荒漠 | |
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cone
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| n.圆锥体，圆锥形东西，球果 | |
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pebbles
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| [复数]鹅卵石； 沙砾； 卵石，小圆石( pebble的名词复数 ) | |
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looming
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| n.上现蜃景（光通过低层大气发生异常折射形成的一种海市蜃楼）v.隐约出现，阴森地逼近( loom的现在分词 )；隐约出现，阴森地逼近 | |
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glaciers
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| 冰河，冰川( glacier的名词复数 ) | |
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desolate
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| adj.荒凉的，荒芜的；孤独的，凄凉的；v.使荒芜，使孤寂 | |
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civilisation
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| n.文明，文化，开化，教化 | |
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anticipations
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| 预期( anticipation的名词复数 )； 预测； （信托财产收益的）预支； 预期的事物 | |
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tranquil
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| adj. 安静的, 宁静的, 稳定的, 不变的 | |
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northward
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| adv.向北；n.北方的地区 | |
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isolated
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| adj.与世隔绝的 | |
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utensils
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| 器具，用具，器皿( utensil的名词复数 )； 器物 | |
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adventurous
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| adj.爱冒险的；惊心动魄的，惊险的，刺激的 | |
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emigrants
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| n.（从本国移往他国的）移民( emigrant的名词复数 ) | |
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standing
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| n.持续，地位；adj.永久的，不动的，直立的，不流动的 | |
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eruption
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| n.火山爆发；（战争等）爆发；（疾病等）发作 | |
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indifference
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| n.不感兴趣，不关心，冷淡，不在乎 | |
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crater
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| n.火山口，弹坑 | |
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craters
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| n.火山口( crater的名词复数 )；弹坑等 | |
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sifted
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| v.筛( sift的过去式和过去分词 )；筛滤；细查；详审 | |
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42
rumble
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| n.隆隆声；吵嚷；v.隆隆响；低沉地说 | |
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43
entirely
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| ad.全部地，完整地；完全地，彻底地 | |
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volcanic
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| adj.火山的；象火山的；由火山引起的 | |
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majesty
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| n.雄伟，壮丽，庄严，威严；最高权威，王权 | |
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46
berth
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| n.卧铺，停泊地，锚位；v.使停泊 | |
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intervals
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| n.[军事]间隔( interval的名词复数 )；间隔时间；[数学]区间；（戏剧、电影或音乐会的）幕间休息 | |
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48
scatters
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| v.（使）散开， （使）分散，驱散( scatter的第三人称单数 )；撒 | |
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49
sledges
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| n.雪橇，雪车( sledge的名词复数 )v.乘雪橇( sledge的第三人称单数 )；用雪橇运载 | |
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50
lurid
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| adj.可怕的；血红的；苍白的 | |
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lava
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| n.熔岩，火山岩 | |
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52
fiery
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| adj.燃烧着的，火红的；暴躁的；激烈的 | |
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illuminated
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| adj.被照明的；受启迪的 | |
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54
radius
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| n.半径，半径范围；有效航程，范围，界限 | |
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scattered
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| adj.分散的，稀疏的；散步的；疏疏落落的 | |
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56
descended
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| a.为...后裔的，出身于...的 | |
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57
ascended
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| v.上升，攀登( ascend的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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folly
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| n.愚笨，愚蠢，蠢事，蠢行，傻话 | |
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59
fully
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| adv.完全地，全部地，彻底地；充分地 | |
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perpendicular
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| adj.垂直的，直立的；n.垂直线，垂直的位置 | |
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61
ascertain
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| vt.发现，确定，查明，弄清 | |
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62
ridge
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| n.山脊；鼻梁；分水岭 | |
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63
puffing
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| v.使喷出( puff的现在分词 )；喷着汽（或烟）移动；吹嘘；吹捧 | |
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64
magistrate
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| n.地方行政官，地方法官，治安官 | |
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65
scoured
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| 走遍（某地）搜寻（人或物）( scour的过去式和过去分词 )； （用力）刷； 擦净； 擦亮 | |
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66
attainable
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| a.可达到的，可获得的 | |
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67
gilt
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| adj.镀金的；n.金边证券 | |
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68
apparently
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| adv.显然地；表面上，似乎 | |
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marred
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| adj. 被损毁, 污损的 | |
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fixtures
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| （房屋等的）固定装置( fixture的名词复数 )； 如（浴盆、抽水马桶）； 固定在某位置的人或物； （定期定点举行的）体育活动 | |
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71
ornaments
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| n.装饰( ornament的名词复数 )；点缀；装饰品；首饰v.装饰，点缀，美化( ornament的第三人称单数 ) | |
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72
embellished
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| v.美化( embellish的过去式和过去分词 )；装饰；修饰；润色 | |
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pictorial
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| adj.绘画的；图片的；n．画报 | |
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sketches
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| n.草图( sketch的名词复数 )；素描；速写；梗概 | |
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75
skilful
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| (=skillful)adj.灵巧的，熟练的 | |
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luxurious
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| adj.精美而昂贵的；豪华的 | |
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insignificant
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| adj.无关紧要的，可忽略的，无意义的 | |
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considerably
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| adv.极大地；相当大地；在很大程度上 | |
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consultations
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| n.磋商（会议）( consultation的名词复数 )；商讨会；协商会；查找 | |
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sundry
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| adj.各式各样的，种种的 | |
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81
decided
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| adj.决定了的，坚决的；明显的，明确的 | |
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momentous
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| adj.重要的，重大的 | |
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83
enjoyment
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| n.乐趣；享有；享用 | |
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84
sedate
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| adj.沉着的，镇静的，安静的 | |
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85
promenade
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| n./v.散步 | |
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86
tattered
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| adj.破旧的，衣衫破的 | |
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87
possessed
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| adj.疯狂的；拥有的，占有的 | |
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88
justify
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| vt.证明…正当(或有理)，为…辩护 | |
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89
murkiest
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| adj.阴暗的( murky的最高级 )；昏暗的；（指水）脏的；混浊的 | |
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perfectly
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| adv.完美地，无可非议地，彻底地 | |
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underneath
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| adj.在...下面，在...底下；adv.在下面 | |
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92
hissed
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| 发嘶嘶声( hiss的过去式和过去分词 )； 发嘘声表示反对 | |
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manoeuvre
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| n.策略，调动；v.用策略，调动 | |
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fervent
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| adj.热的，热烈的，热情的 | |
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impartiality
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| n. 公平, 无私, 不偏 | |
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diabolical
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| adj.恶魔似的，凶暴的 | |
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97
ingenuity
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| n.别出心裁；善于发明创造 | |
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98
drenched
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| adj.湿透的；充满的v.使湿透( drench的过去式和过去分词 )；在某人（某物）上大量使用（某液体） | |
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99
twigs
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| 细枝，嫩枝( twig的名词复数 ) | |
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100
hemp
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| n.大麻；纤维 | |
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101
douse
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| v.把…浸入水中，用水泼；n.泼洒 | |
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102
ordeal
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| n.苦难经历，（尤指对品格、耐力的）严峻考验 | |
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103
misery
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| n.痛苦，苦恼，苦难；悲惨的境遇，贫苦 | |
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104
chattering
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| n. （机器振动发出的）咔嗒声，(鸟等)鸣，啁啾 adj. 喋喋不休的，啾啾声的 动词chatter的现在分词形式 | |
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105
postpone
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| v.延期，推迟 | |
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106
sufficiently
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| adv.足够地，充分地 | |
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