Port Lyttelton at the time was but an insignificant1 town in comparison with what it has since become, although from its confined situation it is unlikely ever to attain2 to any great size. It is the port of the capital of the province, Christchurch, from which it is separated by a chain of hills. A rough and somewhat dangerous cart road led from it to the capital, along and around the hill side, which was twelve miles in length, but there was also a bridle3 track direct across the hills, by which the distance was reduced by one-half. This path, however, could be used only by pedestrians4, or on horseback with difficulty. In 1862 it was decided5 to connect the port with Christchurch by a railway, cutting a tunnel through the hill, and the project was completed in 1866. In 1859 Port Lyttelton was built entirely6 of wood, the houses being for the most part single-storeyed. There was a main street running parallel to the beach, with two or three branch streets, running up the hill therefrom; there were a few shops, several stores, stables, and small inns. The harbour was an open roadstead, and possessed7 but a primitive8 sort of quay9 or landing place for boats and vessels10 of small tonnage.
We were invited on shore by the Leach's sheep-farming cousin, who had come to meet them, but we returned on board to sleep. The following morning, getting our luggage together, we all four started for Christchurch on hired horses, sending our kit12 round the hill by cart. The climb up the bridle path (we had to lead the horses) was a stiff pull for fellows just out of a three months' voyage, but we were repaid on reaching the top by the magnificent panorama13 opened out before us. To our right was the open ocean, blue and calm, dotted with a few white sails; to the left the long low range of hills encircling the bay, and on a pinnacle14 of which we stood. At our feet lay Christchurch, with its few well-laid-out streets and white houses, young farms, fences, trees, gardens, and all the numerous signs of a prosperous and thriving young colony, the little river Avon winding15 its peaceful way to the sea and encircling[Pg 15] the infant town like a silver cord, and the muddy Heathcote with its few white sails and heavily-laden barges16. While beyond stretched away for sixty miles the splendid Canterbury Plains bounded in their turn by the southern Alps with their towering snow-capped peaks and glaciers17 sparkling in the sun; the patches of black pine forest lying sombre and dark against the mountain sides, in contrast with the purple, blue, and gray of the receding18 gorges19, changing, smiling, or frowning as clouds or sunshine passed over them. All this heightened by the extremely rare atmosphere of New Zealand, in which every detail stood out at even that distance clear and distinct, made up a picture which for beauty and grandeur20 can rarely be equalled in the world.
Upon arrival at Christchurch we put up at a neat little inn on the outskirts21 of the town, called Rule's accommodation house. It was a picture of neatness, cleanliness, and comfort. We found it occupied by several squatters of what might be called the better class, who, on their occasional business visits to Christchurch, preferred a quiet establishment to the larger and more noisy hotels, of which the town possessed two.
These gentlemen were clothed in cord breeches and high boots, with guernsey smock frocks, in which costume they appeared to live. English coats and collars and light boots were luxuries unknown or contemned23 by these hardy24 sons of the bush, whom we found very pleasant company, but who, it was apparent to us before we were many minutes in their society, regarded us as very raw material indeed. According to bush custom it was usual to dub25 all fresh arrivals "new chums" until they had satisfactorily passed certain ordeals26 in bush life. They should be able to ride a buckjumper, or, at any rate, hold on till the saddle went, use a stockwhip, cut up and light a pipe of tobacco with a single wax vesta while riding full speed in the teeth of a sou'-wester, and be ready and competent to take a hand at any manual labour going.
After dinner some of our new acquaintances entertained us with some miraculous27 tales of bush life, while others looked carelessly on to see how far we could be gulled28 with impunity29. An amusing incident, however, occurred presently which rapidly increased their respect for the raw material. C—— was a young giant, six feet three in his stockings, and the last man to put up with an indignity30.[Pg 16] One of the party—a rough, vulgar sort of fellow, who had been romancing considerably31, and who evidently was not on the most cordial terms with the rest of the company—carried his rudeness so far as to drop into C——'s seat when the latter had vacated it for a moment. On his return C—— asked him to leave it, which the fellow refused to do. C—— put his hand on his collar. "Now," said he, "get out! Once, twice, three times"—and at the last word he lifted the chap bodily and threw him over the table, whence he fell heavily on the floor. He was thoroughly32 cowed, and with a few oaths left the room. It needed only such an incident as this to put us on the friendliest terms with them all, and we enjoyed a pleasant afternoon and gathered much information.
The Arrival of Lapworth
The Arrival of Lapworth.
The following morning, whilst waiting for breakfast, sitting out on the grass in front of the house, we heard a stampede coming along the road from the direction of the Fort, and presently there hove in sight Lapworth astride a hired nag11, coming ahead at a gallop33, one hand grasping the mane and the other the crupper, while stirrups and reins34 were flying in the wind. In his rear were Bob Stavelly, third mate, and the boatswain, astride another animal, Bob steering35, and the boatswain holding on, seemingly by the tail. Lapworth, a quarter of a mile off, was shouting "Stop her! Stop her!" but the mare36 needed no assistance; she evidently understood where she was required to go, and decided to do it in her own time and way. Galloping37 to the grass plot on which we were standing38 she suddenly stopped short and deposited Lapworth ignominiously39 at our feet. The other animal followed suit, but did not succeed in clearing itself, and after some tacking40 Bob and the boatswain got under weigh again and steered41 for the "White Hart," where they were bent42 on a spree.
Christchurch at this time was about fourteen years in existence. It consisted of only a few hundred houses, chiefly single-storeyed and entirely constructed of timber. The streets were well laid out, broad, and on the principle of the best modern towns, but few of them were as yet made or metalled. There were not many buildings of architectural pretensions43, but all were characterised by an air of comfort, neatness, and suitability, and it was apparent the rapid strides the young colony was making would ere long place it high in the rank of its order. There were two churches, a town hall, used on occasion as court house, [Pg 17]ball-room, or theatre; three hotels, some very presentable shops and stores, and a few particularly neat and handsome residences standing in luxuriant grounds, such as those occupied by the Superintendent44, Bishop45, Judge, etc. The suburbs were extending on all sides with the fencing in of farms, erection of homesteads, and conversion46 of the native soil into land suitable for growing English corn and grass.
Through the rising city wound the little river Avon, only twenty to thirty yards in width, spanned by two wooden bridges, and a couple of mills had also been erected47 upon it. The river was only about fifteen miles from its source to the sea, and at the time to which I refer was almost covered with watercress. This plant was not indigenous48; it was introduced a few years before by a colonist49, who was so partial to the vegetable that he brought some roots from home with him, and planted them near the source of the river, where he squatted50. The watercress took so kindly51 to the soil that it had now covered the river to its mouth, and the Colonial Government were put to very considerable annual expense to remove it.
As I have already stated, we had been provided with introductions to some of the most influential52 families in Christchurch—namely, the Bishop, the Chief Justice Gresson, and some others. The following day we made our calls and were most hospitably53 received, especially by Mr. and Mrs. Gresson, who from that time during my stay in New Zealand were my constant and valued friends. We were introduced to many of the best up-country people, and a month was passed pleasantly visiting about to enable us to decide on what line we would take up as a commencement. We possessed very little money, so a life of service in some form was an absolute necessity at the beginning.
While awaiting events, C—— and I were invited by young Mr. H——, son of the Bishop, to visit his sheep station at Malvern Hills, some forty-five miles distant across the plains, where we could see what station life was like and have some sport after wild pigs, ducks, etc. Procuring55 the loan of a couple of horses we all started early one morning, what change of clothes we needed being strapped56 with our blankets before and behind on our saddles, and I carried a gun.
It was an exhilarating ride in the cool, fragrant57 atmosphere, although a description would lead one to think it would be monotonous58 to ride forty-five miles over an almost perfectly59 flat plain, with no more than an occasional shepherd's[Pg 18] hut, a mob of sheep, or an isolated60 homestead to break the surrounding view. The plain was almost bare of vegetation, beyond short yellow grass here and there burnt in patches, and now and then a solitary61 cabbage tree (a kind of palm) dotted the wide expanse. Beyond a few paradise ducks feeding on the burnt patches, or an occasional family of wild pigs, we met with no animal life. Quail62 used to be abundant, but the run fires were fast destroying them. We had before us the nearing view of the Malvern Hills, the sloping pine forests and scrub, with the long, undulating spurs running back to the foot of great snow-clad peaks.
The station, or homestead, stood on a plateau some fifty feet above the plain; it consisted of two huts, mud-walled and thatched with snow grass. One of these contained the general kitchen and sleeping room for the station hands, the other was the residence of the squatter22 and his overseer. Behind these there were a wool shed for clipping and pressing the wool, with sheep yards attached, a stockyard for cattle, and a fenced in paddock in which a few station hacks63 were kept for daily use.
On arrival our first duty was to remove saddles, bridles64, and swags and lead the horses to some good pasture, where they were each tethered to a tussock by thirty yards of fine hemp65 rope, which they carried tied about their necks. Then, after a rough wash in the open, we were soon gathered round a hospitable66 table in the kitchen, where all sat in common to a substantial meal of mutton, bread, and tea, the standard food with little variation of a squatter's homestead.
Night had closed in by now, and we were soon glad to retire to our blankets, and the sweet fresh beds of Manuka twigs67 laid on the floor of Harper's hut, for the temporary accommodation of us visitors. We slept like tops till roused at daybreak to breakfast, after which the forenoon was spent in being shown over the station and in a climb to the forests, where we saw the pine trees being felled, and split up into posts and rails. After the midday meal a pig hunt was organised, and a few animals were accounted for, falling chiefly to Harper's rifle. (Pig hunting I will specially54 refer to later on.) We passed a pleasant and instructive week at Malvern Station, taking a hand in all the routine work, riding after the stock, working in the bush, and occasionally taking a cross-country ride of fifteen or twenty miles to visit a neighbouring station.
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1
insignificant
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| adj.无关紧要的，可忽略的，无意义的 | |
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attain
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| vt.达到，获得，完成 | |
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bridle
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| n.笼头，束缚；vt.抑制，约束；动怒 | |
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pedestrians
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| n.步行者( pedestrian的名词复数 ) | |
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decided
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| adj.决定了的，坚决的；明显的，明确的 | |
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entirely
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| ad.全部地，完整地；完全地，彻底地 | |
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possessed
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| adj.疯狂的；拥有的，占有的 | |
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primitive
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| adj.原始的；简单的；n.原(始)人，原始事物 | |
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quay
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| n.码头，靠岸处 | |
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vessels
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| n.血管( vessel的名词复数 )；船；容器；（具有特殊品质或接受特殊品质的）人 | |
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nag
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| v.(对…)不停地唠叨；n.爱唠叨的人 | |
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kit
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| n.用具包，成套工具；随身携带物 | |
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panorama
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| n.全景，全景画，全景摄影，全景照片[装置] | |
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pinnacle
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| n.尖塔，尖顶，山峰；(喻)顶峰 | |
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winding
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| n.绕，缠，绕组，线圈 | |
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barges
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| 驳船( barge的名词复数 ) | |
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glaciers
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| 冰河，冰川( glacier的名词复数 ) | |
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receding
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| v.逐渐远离( recede的现在分词 )；向后倾斜；自原处后退或避开别人的注视；尤指问题 | |
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gorges
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| n.山峡，峡谷( gorge的名词复数 )；咽喉v.（用食物把自己）塞饱，填饱( gorge的第三人称单数 )；作呕 | |
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grandeur
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| n.伟大，崇高，宏伟，庄严，豪华 | |
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outskirts
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| n.郊外，郊区 | |
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squatter
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| n.擅自占地者 | |
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contemned
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| v.侮辱，蔑视( contemn的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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hardy
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| adj.勇敢的，果断的，吃苦的；耐寒的 | |
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dub
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| vt.（以某种称号）授予，给...起绰号，复制 | |
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ordeals
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| n.严峻的考验，苦难的经历( ordeal的名词复数 ) | |
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miraculous
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| adj.像奇迹一样的，不可思议的 | |
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gulled
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| v.欺骗某人( gull的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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impunity
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| n.(惩罚、损失、伤害等的)免除 | |
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indignity
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| n.侮辱，伤害尊严，轻蔑 | |
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considerably
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| adv.极大地；相当大地；在很大程度上 | |
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thoroughly
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| adv.完全地，彻底地，十足地 | |
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gallop
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| v./n.(马或骑马等)飞奔；飞速发展 | |
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reins
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| 感情，激情； 缰( rein的名词复数 )； 控制手段； 掌管； （成人带着幼儿走路以防其走失时用的）保护带 | |
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steering
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| n.操舵装置 | |
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mare
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| n.母马，母驴 | |
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galloping
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| adj. 飞驰的, 急性的 动词gallop的现在分词形式 | |
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standing
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| n.持续，地位；adj.永久的，不动的，直立的，不流动的 | |
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ignominiously
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| adv.耻辱地，屈辱地，丢脸地 | |
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tacking
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| （帆船）抢风行驶，定位焊[铆]紧钉 | |
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steered
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| v.驾驶( steer的过去式和过去分词 )；操纵；控制；引导 | |
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bent
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| n.爱好，癖好；adj.弯的；决心的，一心的 | |
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pretensions
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| 自称( pretension的名词复数 )； 自命不凡； 要求； 权力 | |
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superintendent
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| n.监督人，主管，总监；(英国)警务长 | |
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bishop
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| n.主教，（国际象棋）象 | |
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conversion
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| n.转化，转换，转变 | |
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47
ERECTED
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| adj. 直立的，竖立的，笔直的 vt. 使 ... 直立，建立 | |
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indigenous
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| adj.土产的，土生土长的，本地的 | |
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colonist
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| n.殖民者，移民 | |
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squatted
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| v.像动物一样蹲下( squat的过去式和过去分词 )；非法擅自占用（土地或房屋）；为获得其所有权；而占用某片公共用地。 | |
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kindly
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| adj.和蔼的，温和的，爽快的；adv.温和地，亲切地 | |
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influential
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| adj.有影响的，有权势的 | |
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hospitably
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| 亲切地，招待周到地，善于款待地 | |
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specially
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| adv.特定地；特殊地；明确地 | |
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procuring
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| v.（努力）取得， （设法）获得( procure的现在分词 )；拉皮条 | |
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strapped
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| adj.用皮带捆住的，用皮带装饰的；身无分文的；缺钱；手头紧v.用皮带捆扎(strap的过去式和过去分词)；用皮带抽打；包扎；给…打绷带 | |
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fragrant
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| adj.芬香的，馥郁的，愉快的 | |
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monotonous
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| adj.单调的，一成不变的，使人厌倦的 | |
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perfectly
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| adv.完美地，无可非议地，彻底地 | |
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isolated
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| adj.与世隔绝的 | |
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solitary
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| adj.孤独的，独立的，荒凉的；n.隐士 | |
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quail
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| n.鹌鹑；vi.畏惧，颤抖 | |
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hacks
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| 黑客 | |
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bridles
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| 约束( bridle的名词复数 )； 限动器； 马笼头； 系带 | |
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hemp
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| n.大麻；纤维 | |
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hospitable
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| adj.好客的；宽容的；有利的，适宜的 | |
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twigs
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| 细枝，嫩枝( twig的名词复数 ) | |
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