From Bussang to Remiremont our infant stream gurgles plashingly along; sometimes it conceals2 itself in little tranquil3 pools, where the large trout4 lie deep beneath the roots of the overshadowing trees; sometimes it falls with a gentle splash over an obstruction5, leaping, as we do in early life, over all difficulties with a smile, even seeming to enjoy that which at a maturer age too often frets6 and chafes7 us, though we conceal1 our chagrin8 under an unruffled surface.
Sometimes our stream passes, broken into ripples9, [13]over smooth shiny pebbles10,—here the trout from time to time suddenly dart11 up and seize their insect food; and sometimes it glides12 between green banks which hem13 it in (fair setting for so bright a gem): here it is blue, reflecting the sky above.
Through the sultry summer days, hours spent splashing in this little stream, or dreaming on its banks, are most delicious,—but beware, O bather! of the shining pebbles that gleam mid14 the blue tide, for
Beneath the waters bright
The glitt’ring pebbles lie,
Like nymphs whose eyes the light
Shines on with brilliancy:
Like wicked water-sprites
These rounded pebbles trip
The bather, who delights
His body here to dip.
The timid foot is placed
Upon the tempting15 stone,
Then downward in all haste
The luckless wight is thrown.
And when he wrathful tries
His footing to regain16,
The sprites, with shining eyes,
Just trip him up again.
The scenery down the valley is altogether charming, occasionally grand, but oftener sweetly beautiful; the hills are of considerable height, some cultivated in patches of grain-crops, some covered with trees, while others again are brightly green with turf, except where [14]grey rocks crop out and break the outline. Farther off the large shadowy mountains rise, calmly shutting in the minor17 hills, the valley, and the stream; the fleecy clouds float gently on, and rest upon their summits.
Groups of trees half hide the houses which frequently appear within the valley; the numerous bridges are generally of wood, some covered as in Switzerland.
The peasant women, in great straw hats or little close caps, work hard amidst the fields storing the hay crop; the oxen yoked18 together munch19 their fill of sweet fresh grass, that has grown in the well-watered meadows; round them the children play, piling the hay upon each other until, overcome by the heat, they hasten off to bathe in our cool stream.
Here, at a short distance above Remiremont, is the confluence20 of two branches of our river; and river the Moselle now becomes. Leaving her infant days she glides forth21, with all the sunny joyousness22 of girlhood, through the valleys of Remiremont and Epinal, then on through the undulating plain, past Toul, to meet her confidant the Meurthe.
Remiremont is a well-built, clean town, with rivulets23 flowing constantly on both sides the roadway; it contains a fine church, near which are the buildings that formerly24 held the celebrated25 Dames26 de Remiremont, of whom the following account is given.
In the seventh century a monk27 named Amé arrived at the court of King Theodobert of Austrasia; moved [15]by his preaching, one of the principal officers of the king, named Romaric, embraced the monastic life, and gave an estate to found a monastery28 of nuns29: the mountain on which this monastery was built was called “Mons Romarici,” hence the modern name of Remiremont.
A community of monks30 was established shortly after, near the nunnery, and St. Amé governed both; he dying, Romaric succeeded him: but now the female monastery was governed by an abbess,—it is said, a daughter of Romaric.
To this monastery Charlemagne came to enjoy the pleasures of the chase, and here the unhappy Waldrada, wife of Lothaire II., came to die after her long persecution31 by the Church.
In the tenth century the Huns penetrated32 here, and ravaged33 the monastery; a few years after it was totally destroyed by fire; after this event it was rebuilt at the foot of the mountain: the two communities now separated, the ladies entering on their new abode34, and the monks retiring to the mountain.
The ladies lived such scandalous lives that Pope Eugenius reproached them with dishonouring35 the religious habit; his complaints were useless, and the ladies soon threw off even the appearance of religieuses, and remained bound together by a sort of female feudality. The abbesses were people of the best families, and none were admitted as members of the community but those who could prove themselves of noble blood on both sides for two hundred years. [16]
The abbess ranked as a princess of the Empire, and held a feudal36 court,—a drawn37 sword was carried before her by one of the officers, of whom she had many in her service; she received her investiture from the hands of the Emperor himself, and had many rights over different parts of the surrounding country, her power often clashing with that of the Dukes of Lorraine.
The Dukes were bound to appear before the monastery on the 15th of July of each year, and to carry on their shoulders the shrine38 of St. Romaric; they then signed, in a large book plated with gold and kept for that purpose, a confirmation39 of all the privileges of the abbey. In consideration of these services, however, they gained certain solid advantages.
One of the most violent quarrels between “les Dames” and the Dukes of Lorraine was owing to Duke Charles III. refusing to carry the saint’s relics41 on his shoulders; eventually the ladies gave up the point on consideration of receiving, in lieu, an annuity42 of 400 francs.
In 1637 Duke Charles IV. besieged43 the town, which had been garrisoned44 by the French with fifteen companies of the regiment45 of Normandy. These soldiers being driven to extremity46, declared, rather than submit without conditions, they would burn the abbess, abbey, and all the ladies, as well as the citizens; the ladies despatched six of their number to the Duke, who, overcome by the tears of beauty, granted an advantageous47 capitulation to the Norman rascals48.
Next year Turenne appeared before the city, which [17]the Duke had left feebly garrisoned; but the abbess, mindful of the Duke’s kindness, so stoutly49 defended it, that after three assaults Turenne retired50 with considerable loss. After this the abbess obtained from the French king a promise of neutrality.
The power of these extraordinary “Dames de Remiremont” lasted (though somewhat shorn) until the tide of the French Revolution swept away for a time even the name of the town, which was called Libremont. The church and buildings still remain, the last remnants of this extraordinary community.
Having climbed the hills above Remiremont and seated ourselves amid the heather and ferns, the valley in folds of bright green extends itself beneath; the hills around are varied51 and beautiful, clumps53 of trees adorn54 the meadows, and great shadows steal along, presenting to our eyes a constant succession of moving pictures.
One of these shadows we watch roll down the distant mountain-side, leaving it bright and glowing with the grain,—then, coming onwards, it rests upon a great clump52 of trees, whose contrasted darkness lights up the grass beyond: they in their turn are left behind, and, now quivering in light, they stand backed by the sombre mountain wrapped in a succeeding veil; these clouds roll on, and others quickly following, give to the valley an appearance similar to that of a rolling prairie: now they approach, and envelope the hill on which we sit in gloom; but shortly all again is clear, the sky above is pure, the air is sweet; the meadows [18]glory in their abundance, and our river, bending and turning, now to the far side of the valley, now towards the town, freshens the heated herbage with its limpid55 stream.
From the valley, beautiful though it be, we turn our eyes to the more glorious beauty of the
NOONDAY CLOUDS.
Over our heads the sunbeams quiver,
The air is filled with heat and light,
While at our feet the shining river
Sparkles with thousand dimples bright.
The distant hills, in sombre masses,
Sleep calmly on amidst the haze56;
A mighty57 cloud through heaven passes,
And from the earth arrests our gaze.
For in the shadows of that cloud,
We seem to see extending far
Valleys and hills, where seraphs bow’d,
Praising their great Creator are.
Praising for ever “Him on high.”
Those glorious seraphs also pray,
That from this planet crime may die,
From man and earth sin pass away.
The shades of these hills of central air,
The gales58 that spring ’mid their lake,
Spread over our earthly valleys fair,
From our souls the weariness take;
And hope reviving emits its glad beam,
Which brightens our hearts, as sun does the stream.
Where we sit the ground is heaped into all sorts of forms, and covered with ferns and heather,—from the [19]latter rushes a large covey of whirring partridges, and swoops59 into the valley.
Above, the still forest sends down its treasures of bark and firewood, which are borne in creaking waggons60 down the steep ascent61; the oxen stagger beneath the weight, while the drivers shout encouragement, and their great dogs look calmly from the overhanging bank upon the busy scene.
All the environs of Remiremont are beautiful, and the town itself is a favourable62 specimen63 of a French country town: it is much better paved than those towns usually are, and the principal street has arcades64 under the first floor, beneath whose shade it is pleasant to sit during the midday heat, and hear the water rushing through the tiny canals.
In the little busy inns people come and go rapidly, the fashionable watering-place of Plombières being only some twelve miles distant: the tables d’h?te at these inns are wonderful, the number of dishes, the rapidity with which they are served, and the really excellent cookery. Most of the diners are men, and they one and all make love to the woman who, in conjunction with a lad, waits on some twenty guests, and yet finds time to parry all their jokes with sharp repartee65.
Here may be seen a good specimen of the false politeness of the French,—they never help themselves to the vin ordinaire without filling up their neighbour’s glass, whether he wants more or not, and they almost invariably pick out the choice morsel66 from the dish which the aforesaid neighbour eyes with longing67 looks: [20]one, an epicure68, reaches over you to secure the oil and pepper, with which to make additions to some vile40 sauce he is compounding for a coming dish; another will have something out of its proper turn, which irritates the handmaid; all eat voraciously69, and with knives scoop70 up superfluous71 gravy72, endangering the fair proportions of their mouths. After dinner (which is at twelve), cards and coffee fill the time until a little gentle exercise brings them to a second dinner at seven, when the knives play their part again.
Travelling in the smaller diligences is very miserable73, but the little rattling74 carts that can be hired are worse and slower. Journeying, again, brings out the politeness of the French men,—who secure the best seats if possible, never giving them up to ladies, and fill the vehicle with very bad tobacco smoke.
Leaving them to the smoke and dust, we will go down into the meadows, and walk with our fresh river through the fields it waters on its passage to the gay town of Epinal.
Nurses and Children.
Nurses and Children.
[21]
On a slight elevation75 at the entrance of the town is a public garden of fine old beech-trees, that shade seats and walks; rough grass lawns fill the intervening spaces. Here plays a military band on Sundays and fête-days, and the young men sun themselves in the eyes of the fair ladies, who in many-hued attire76 float up and down, ostensibly listening to the military music, but really to that of the voices of their admirers.
Here on all days play the children, and on the grass sit the picturesquely-dressed nurses, with great bows in their hair and snowy sleeves puffed77 out upon their arms. It is a pleasant lounge and of considerable extent; on one side is the river, the main body of which falls over a wear, while a portion of the water is conducted through the town in a clear stream, which reunites itself with the main body below the town: thus an island is formed, and Epinal stands on both banks as well as on this island, several bridges joining the different quarters.
There is near the end of the town a very beautiful old church; on the hill above, was formerly a strong castle, only a few stones of which now remain: the hill is covered by a private garden commanding fine views.
Epinal is on the site of a very ancient town that was twice destroyed by a fire and pillage78; the modern town arose round the walls of a monastery founded in 980 A.D. by a Bishop79 of Metz, and enlarged in the following century.
The ladies of this monastery appear to have rivalled [22]the “Dames de Remiremont” in leading scandalous lives, if not in power; and when, in the thirteenth century, a Bishop of Toul undertook to re-establish the primitive80 rules among them, they refused to take any vow81, and ended by secularising themselves, but still kept in some measure aloof82 from the world: they had two dresses, one for the convent, the other for society. They existed as a community till last century.
As a Bishop of Metz had founded this monastery, his successors assumed the sovereignty of the town, and one of them, in the thirteenth century, caused it to be fortified83. This sovereignty was often disputed by the townspeople on the one hand, and by certain seigneurs, who had been declared guardians84 of the monastery, on the other: thus many disputes arose; at last it was agreed that the town should be ceded85 to the Dukes of Lorraine, and to this house it remained attached.
Frequently taken by the French, and as often retaken, it suffered much from war, but was always constant to its ducal rulers until Lorraine became finally incorporated in France. At the present day it is bustling86, dirty, thriving, and ill-paved.
And now away, over the hills and valleys. The river swells87 on beneath or past us, leaving Thaon, Chatel, Charmes, and many other towns and villages behind; on it flows, falling over wears and circling many islands, wearing its course along until it leaves the Department des Vosges and enters on that of the Meurthe. [23]
Laughing and gay, we shall in the next chapter find “the fair girl” basking88 amid the corn-fields that adorn her course near Toul.
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1
conceal
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| v.隐藏，隐瞒，隐蔽 | |
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conceals
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| v.隐藏，隐瞒，遮住( conceal的第三人称单数 ) | |
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3
tranquil
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| adj. 安静的, 宁静的, 稳定的, 不变的 | |
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4
trout
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| n.鳟鱼；鲑鱼(属) | |
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5
obstruction
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| n.阻塞，堵塞；障碍物 | |
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6
frets
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| 基质间片； 品丝（吉他等指板上定音的）( fret的名词复数 ) | |
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7
chafes
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| v.擦热（尤指皮肤）( chafe的第三人称单数 )；擦痛；发怒；惹怒 | |
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8
chagrin
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| n.懊恼；气愤；委屈 | |
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9
ripples
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| 逐渐扩散的感觉( ripple的名词复数 ) | |
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10
pebbles
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| [复数]鹅卵石； 沙砾； 卵石，小圆石( pebble的名词复数 ) | |
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11
dart
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| v.猛冲，投掷；n.飞镖，猛冲 | |
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12
glides
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| n.滑行( glide的名词复数 )；滑音；音渡；过渡音v.滑动( glide的第三人称单数 )；掠过；（鸟或飞机 ） 滑翔 | |
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13
hem
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| n.贴边，镶边；vt.缝贴边；(in)包围，限制 | |
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14
mid
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| adj.中央的，中间的 | |
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15
tempting
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| a.诱人的, 吸引人的 | |
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16
regain
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| vt.重新获得，收复，恢复 | |
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17
minor
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| adj.较小(少)的，较次要的；n.辅修学科；vi.辅修 | |
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18
yoked
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| 结合（yoke的过去式形式） | |
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19
munch
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| v.用力嚼，大声咀嚼 | |
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20
confluence
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| n.汇合，聚集 | |
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21
forth
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| adv.向前；向外，往外 | |
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22
joyousness
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| 快乐，使人喜悦 | |
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23
rivulets
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| n.小河，小溪( rivulet的名词复数 ) | |
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24
formerly
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| adv.从前，以前 | |
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25
celebrated
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| adj.有名的，声誉卓著的 | |
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26
dames
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| n.（在英国）夫人（一种封号），夫人（爵士妻子的称号）( dame的名词复数 )；女人 | |
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27
monk
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| n.和尚，僧侣，修道士 | |
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28
monastery
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| n.修道院，僧院，寺院 | |
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29
nuns
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| n.（通常指基督教的）修女， （佛教的）尼姑( nun的名词复数 ) | |
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30
monks
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| n.修道士，僧侣( monk的名词复数 ) | |
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31
persecution
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| n. 迫害,烦扰 | |
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32
penetrated
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| adj. 击穿的，鞭辟入里的 动词penetrate的过去式和过去分词形式 | |
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33
ravaged
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| 毁坏( ravage的过去式和过去分词 )； 蹂躏； 劫掠； 抢劫 | |
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34
abode
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| n.住处，住所 | |
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35
dishonouring
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| 使（人、家族等）丧失名誉（dishonour的现在分词形式） | |
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36
feudal
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| adj.封建的，封地的，领地的 | |
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37
drawn
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| v.拖，拉，拔出；adj.憔悴的，紧张的 | |
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38
shrine
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| n.圣地，神龛，庙；v.将...置于神龛内，把...奉为神圣 | |
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39
confirmation
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| n.证实，确认，批准 | |
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40
vile
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| adj.卑鄙的，可耻的，邪恶的；坏透的 | |
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41
relics
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| [pl.］n.遗物，遗迹，遗产；遗体，尸骸 | |
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42
annuity
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| n.年金；养老金 | |
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43
besieged
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| 包围，围困，围攻( besiege的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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44
garrisoned
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| 卫戍部队守备( garrison的过去式和过去分词 )； 派部队驻防 | |
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45
regiment
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| n.团，多数，管理；v.组织，编成团，统制 | |
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46
extremity
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| n.末端，尽头；尽力；终极；极度 | |
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47
advantageous
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| adj.有利的；有帮助的 | |
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48
rascals
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| 流氓( rascal的名词复数 )； 无赖； （开玩笑说法）淘气的人（尤指小孩）； 恶作剧的人 | |
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49
stoutly
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| adv.牢固地，粗壮的 | |
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50
retired
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| adj.隐退的，退休的，退役的 | |
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51
varied
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| adj.多样的，多变化的 | |
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52
clump
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| n.树丛，草丛；vi.用沉重的脚步行走 | |
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53
clumps
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| n.（树、灌木、植物等的）丛、簇( clump的名词复数 )；（土、泥等）团；块；笨重的脚步声v.（树、灌木、植物等的）丛、簇( clump的第三人称单数 )；（土、泥等）团；块；笨重的脚步声 | |
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54
adorn
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| vt.使美化，装饰 | |
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55
limpid
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| adj.清澈的，透明的 | |
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56
haze
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| n.霾，烟雾；懵懂，迷糊；vi.(over)变模糊 | |
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57
mighty
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| adj.强有力的；巨大的 | |
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58
gales
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| 龙猫 | |
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59
swoops
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| 猛扑，突然下降( swoop的名词复数 ) | |
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waggons
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| 四轮的运货马车( waggon的名词复数 )； 铁路货车； 小手推车 | |
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61
ascent
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| n.(声望或地位)提高；上升，升高；登高 | |
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62
favourable
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| adj.赞成的，称赞的，有利的，良好的，顺利的 | |
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63
specimen
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| n.样本，标本 | |
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64
arcades
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| n.商场( arcade的名词复数 )；拱形走道（两旁有商店或娱乐设施）；连拱廊；拱形建筑物 | |
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65
repartee
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| n.机敏的应答 | |
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66
morsel
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| n.一口，一点点 | |
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67
longing
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| n.（for）渴望 | |
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68
epicure
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| n.行家，美食家 | |
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69
voraciously
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| adv.贪婪地 | |
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70
scoop
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| n.铲子，舀取，独家新闻；v.汲取，舀取，抢先登出 | |
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71
superfluous
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| adj.过多的，过剩的，多余的 | |
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72
gravy
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| n.肉汁；轻易得来的钱，外快 | |
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73
miserable
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| adj.悲惨的，痛苦的；可怜的，糟糕的 | |
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74
rattling
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| adj. 格格作响的, 活泼的, 很好的 adv. 极其, 很, 非常 动词rattle的现在分词 | |
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75
elevation
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| n.高度；海拔；高地；上升；提高 | |
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76
attire
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| v.穿衣，装扮[同]array；n.衣着；盛装 | |
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77
puffed
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| adj.疏松的v.使喷出( puff的过去式和过去分词 )；喷着汽（或烟）移动；吹嘘；吹捧 | |
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78
pillage
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| v.抢劫；掠夺；n.抢劫，掠夺；掠夺物 | |
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79
bishop
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| n.主教，（国际象棋）象 | |
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80
primitive
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| adj.原始的；简单的；n.原(始)人，原始事物 | |
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81
vow
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| n.誓(言)，誓约；v.起誓，立誓 | |
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82
aloof
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| adj.远离的；冷淡的，漠不关心的 | |
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83
fortified
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| adj. 加强的 | |
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84
guardians
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| 监护人( guardian的名词复数 )； 保护者，维护者 | |
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85
ceded
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| v.让给，割让，放弃( cede的过去式 ) | |
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86
bustling
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| adj.喧闹的 | |
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87
swells
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| 增强( swell的第三人称单数 )； 肿胀； （使）凸出； 充满（激情） | |
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88
basking
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| v.晒太阳，取暖( bask的现在分词 )；对…感到乐趣；因他人的功绩而出名；仰仗…的余泽 | |
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