Such has our Moselle become when she winds among the mountains past Neumagen and Piesport.
The promontory5 at the back of Neumagen is divided into two parts by the little river Drohn. It is supposed by many that it was on the bank of this little stream that the celebrated6 Palace of the Thirty Towers stood. This palace, built by the Archbishop Nicetius of Trèves, is supposed to have been most beautiful, and formed entirely8 of marble, with pleasure-grounds sloping to the stream and river. The description given of these gardens by the poet, Venantius Fortunatus, reads more like an Eastern account of those gardens of Paradise sometimes for [112]a moment unveiled to the wanderer in the Arabian desert. Bishofstein (lower down the stream) also claims the honour of being on the site of the Palace of the Thirty Towers, but it does not in any way answer the description. Whether the banks of the Drohn were the site of this marble palace or not, the beauty of the situation certainly gives it a claim to have been so, and the Archbishops did possess a country-house near Neumagen.
A few miles below Trèves we pass Pfalzel, which lies on the left bank; this little town is interesting, as it is said to be the site of the beautiful legend of Genoveva, handed down to us in so many different versions.
[Contents]
LEGEND OF GENOVEVA.
The Pfalz-graf Siegfried was married to a lovely and virtuous10 lady, named Genoveva, and they lived together in great happiness and content, until a wicked courtier, named Golo, whose attentions the lady had repulsed11, plotted how he might ruin her in her lord’s esteem12.
To this end he poisoned the Pfalz-graf’s mind against his virtuous wife, and so, deeming her guilty of crimes she never even imagined, her lord drove Genoveva from his castle, that so she might be slain13 of wild beasts or die of hunger.
Genoveva, as she passed out from the castle gates, threw her wedding-ring into the water, that so the [113]crime of her lord might be lessened14, as he was thus released from the marriage-tie.
Time passed on, and Siegfried, being on a hunting excursion, wished for food and rest; he therefore ordered a tent to be pitched on the banks of a stream. No sooner was this done than two fishermen arrived with a great fish, which they presented to the Pfalz-graf; the fish being opened, a ring was found, which the Pfalz-graf no sooner saw than he perceived it was that of his dead wife.
Returning home he was much troubled at this circumstance, and falling asleep he dreamt that he saw a dragon persecuting15 Genoveva, who still was dearer to him than all the world beside. He related this dream to Golo, who pacified16 him for a time: but again he dreamt, and in his dream he hunted a pure white hind17, following, and persecuting it remorselessly; awaking, he felt that the hind was Genoveva, and he was indeed a cruel huntsman, who had chased a spotless deer to death.
He ordered everything to be prepared for the chase,—why, he knew not, but felt the dream must be followed out; Golo was seized with agony when the Pfalz-graf set forth18, and secretly followed his master’s steps.
A spotless hind was found, and the Pfalz-graf eagerly followed on her track, wounding her with an arrow; on sped the hind, until, with a last bound, it forced its way through the bushes, and fell bleeding and exhausted19 at Genoveva’s feet. [114]
Siegfried followed close, and threw himself on his knees before his injured wife, who had been wonderfully preserved from death, and, together with the child to which she had given birth, nourished by the poor deer, which now was dying of her wounds.
Pointing to her babe, Genoveva showed that in every feature it was the counterpart of her lord: thus was Golo’s treachery made manifest, and his head, being struck from off the body, was exposed upon the castle walls.
Another legend of Pfalzel tells of a wicked nun20, who, by the devil’s aid, worked a magic garment and presented it to the Archbishop; immediately on putting it on horrible desires seized on him, and he felt as if the fiend were dragging him to perdition. Throwing it off, others tried it, and on all it had the same effect; being therefore convinced of the iniquity21 of the worker, the Archbishop turned the nun out of the convent, but finding that her sister nuns22 were as bad as she, he was compelled to treat them all in a similar manner: the garment, however, still exists, and is worn by many.
Inland of Pfalzel is Rammstein, where a certain Count of Vianden (like Adalbert of St. Cross) came to an untimely end by an overfondness for wine. He had once taken the Bishop7 prisoner and put him into fetters23; this the latter never forgot or forgave, so, knowing the Count’s fondness for wine, he, one very sultry day, sent a string of carts filled with [115]barrels past the walls of the Count’s strong castle; down swooped24 the Count’s followers25, like beasts of prey26 as they were, and carried off the convoy27; then they all set to work drinking, in the true German fashion.
While thus carousing28, the armed followers of the Bishop suddenly surprised them, and the castle was taken and burnt; the Bishop shouted to the Count, who in his turn was put in fetters, “Behold the consequence of raising thy hand against the Lord’s anointed!”
Near Pfalzel several brooks29 run into the Moselle; one on the same bank, named the Kill, passes Rammstein, and flowing through a charming valley, waters a large strip of most productive garden-ground, which extends from the Moselle to some distance inland.
These lateral30 valleys are very frequent on our river. We can scarcely wander along her banks for a quarter of a mile but a recess31 in the neighbouring hills is seen, through which a little stream comes dancing. Penetrating32 into the gorge33 we find busy little mills at work, and are led into scenery which at every turn seems to increase in beauty. We shall hereafter have to describe some of these lateral valleys, so need not now dwell on their delights.
On the opposite shore, which is watered by another stream, is Grünhaus, and above it Grüneberg. From these vineyards come the most highly-prized wines of the Moselle, though many think the wines of Zeltingen more delicate in flavour. [116]
Past little islands, and through rich fields filled with garden produce, we glide34 on, following the serpentine35 course of our river. The wood-embosomed villages peep at us as we go by, each group of houses has its church rising in the midst: gradually the banks grow steeper, hills swell36 up inland, and here and there come down to look on the Moselle. These reconnoiterers retire, and having told their chiefs of the approach of the glorious stream, at Trittenheim we find the right bank covered with mountain-giants, come to do homage37 to the spirit of the waters.
At Trittenheim is one of those flying bridges, almost peculiar38 to the Moselle. It is thus formed: two strong towers are built, one on each side of the stream; from the summits of these towers, attached to great posts built into the solid wall, stretches a rope, which falls in a curve over the river; a stout39 cord attached to a swivel, which runs freely along the rope, descends40 to the surface of the river, and to it is fastened a barge41, which propelled by the action of the swift running stream, and guided by the boatman, passes from side to side at his pleasure, carrying heavy loads, with little labour to the ferryman.
Where the breadth of the river admits, these sort of flying bridges are used; in other parts, those with which the reader is probably familiar on the Rhine are in operation; and again, where the stream is sluggish42, barges43 unattached to any rope are poled up stream, and floated across.
Trittenheim was the birth-place of the celebrated [117]Trithemius, famous for his many writings and his learning. He, in common with all learned men of his time (end of fifteenth century), was considered a sorcerer, and the Emperor Maximilian applied44 to him to raise the spirit of his deceased wife, Mary of Burgundy. This he is said to have done, and the dead Princess reappeared in all the charms of her youthful beauty: but a more probable account of this transaction is given in the following version, taken from the beautiful poem in the Mosel sagen.
[Contents]
TRITHEMIUS AND THE EMPEROR.
One very dark night a man wrapped in a mantle45, so as to conceal46 his features, entered the cloister47 at Spanheim, and demanded to see the Abbot.
Trithemius (the Abbot) advanced to meet his visitor, who he immediately recognised as the Emperor Maximilian. The Emperor requested him to raise the shade of his first wife, Mary; upon which Trithemius took him by the hand, and leading him out of doors, pointed48 to two bright constellations49 in the form of staves, which were shining in the sky, and addressed him as follows:—
“You see there, my Prince, the two principles of government; by ruling with the one, bad princes beat down their subjects beneath their feet, and cause those little stars, which represent drops of blood and tears, to flow; in that garden where the seeds of time are ripening50, this staff will stand like a [118]parched trunk, but the other staff will flourish green as a palm-tree, unhurt by the heat of the summer’s day; for this last is a righteous sceptre, a staff of pure gold, serving to support and strengthen those who lean trustfully upon it, and use it to benefit their subjects. Choose, then, O Monarch51, with which staff thou wilt52 rule.”
While the Priest thus spoke53 another star shone forth, and directing the Emperor’s attention towards it, Trithemius again addressed him.
“I see, O King, a young and smiling face beam from the newly-risen star. Tearless and blissfully it smiles on you, wearing the look of your glorified55 wife. Pain and tears are left behind her in the grave, on which they blossom like pale roses. Mary beckons56 to you from on high to join her in the gardens of God.
“Choose, then, thy sceptre, O Prince. Erect57 to thy loved wife a monument of deeds. To act is a ruler’s duty. We priests have had bestowed58 upon us a magic virtue59; it consists in wiping away your tears, and animating60 you to tread the right path with the sceptre of blessings62 in your hand.
“Be strong, be wise, my Prince, and receive my blessing61 on your noble path. Farewell.”
The Prince, perceiving the value of the counsel he had received, departed through the night, which now was luminous63, with the words of truth.
The promontory on which Trittenheim is situated64 [119]is clothed with fruit-trees, and rivals in fertility the opposite shore, on which, a little lower down, Neumagen is situated.
Before reaching Neumagen we pass a little chapel65, erected66 at the spot where, according to tradition, the waters of the Moselle ceased to be tinged67 with the blood shed at Trèves in the massacre68 of Christian69 martyrs70.
Neumagen enjoys a most agreeable site. Sheltered by the hills which rise at its back, it faces the bold cliffs that now have arisen on the left bank of our river. On ascending71 the hills at the back of the town we find ourselves on a level platform, with the Moselle on one side of us and the Drohn on the other; beyond these, other table-lands swell into hills, and varied72 outlines of distant mountains curve into the sky.
On this elevated table-land a refreshing73 breeze blows, even on the most sultry days, and the tender blue lines of the receding74 hills give an air of coolness which is delicious to the heated pedestrian. Such variety of scenery as the walking tourist meets on the Moselle is scarcely to be exceeded; hill and dale, mountain, river, wood, and plain, all are there combining their charms.
It was over these hills that Constantine was marching when, at break of day,1 the fiery75 cross appeared in the sky, with the inscription76, “In hoc vince.” Wonder arose in the minds of Constantine and his [120]legions, but none could interpret the meaning of the celestial77 sign. At night, in a dream, Constantine saw Jesus with a cross in his arms, like to that he had seen in the heavens; and the vision commanded him to attach a mark of the same form to his standard, telling him that by so doing he should vanquish78 all his enemies.
Arriving at Trèves, Constantine, mindful of his dream and the celestial sign, called together cunning artificers; and a cross, surmounted79 with a crown of gold and jewels, was set upon the lance from which the purple standard of royalty80 floated.
And all his enemies were conquered, in accordance with the words spoken to him in his dream. So Christianity triumphed over idolatry.
* * *
Walking across the promontory that lies between Neumagen and Piesport, we found the ground covered with the delicate autumn crocus, whose jewels sparkled among the grass; and apples, with their ruddy hues81, lay beneath the trees, from which they had abundantly fallen.
Piesport is confined by the mountain at its back to one narrow, straggling street; it possesses a handsome church, from which we saw, soon after our arrival, issue forth a long procession. First came men, two and two, clad in blue frocks; then children, followed by women in like order; these preceded the old priest and choristers; then again came men; and, lastly, old women. The procession wound its chanting stream along, round the little town, and returning, made the [121]circuit of the church and re-entered the edifice82. The object of the ceremony was to charm rain from the sky by their chanting. The performers and assisters ill the scene gossiped and chatted to each other in the intervals83 of singing, and the poor old priest seemed quite wearied, and glad to return to his church. The singing did not in any way influence the weather, certainly for some weeks.
The mountain behind Piesport is entirely covered with vineyards. These celebrated vineyards were considered the best on the Moselle in the earlier part of last century; but having gained this reputation for their wine, the cultivators introduced a worse sort of grape, which bore more fruit, in order to make a greater quantity of wine; but, fortunately for the place, a new Curé, who was appointed in 1770, induced them to restore the old sort of vine, and thus regain84 the reputation they were rapidly losing.
Having succeeded in getting up nearly to the summit of the mountain without un coup85 de soleil, we got among groves86 of picturesquely-formed oak, many of the trees being of considerable size. Throwing ourselves down beneath their grateful shade, a fine view of the surrounding district is before us. This view we have endeavoured to lay before our readers in the vignette at the head of the chapter. The spire87 of the church at Piesport is seen cutting against the bed of the river, and the peep of distance gives a good idea of the peculiar formation of the hills.
The hills of the Moselle are not hills in the ordinary [122]acceptation of the word, as they all form part of a high table-land, which extends from near here to beyond Andernach-on-Rhine, on the left bank, and on the right to Bingen. The range on the right bank are called the Hunsruck mountains; that on the left bank, the Eifel. Through the great table-land thus formed flow the Rhine and Moselle; thus the banks of both rivers are very similar in formation, and average about the same height: but the Moselle, being a much smaller river, of course her banks appear more mountainous; the ranges also approach nearer to the stream, and the lateral valleys are far more frequent.
It is astonishing at first, after climbing unceasingly for an hour, to find one’s self standing88 on a gently undulating plain waving with grain, and forest-trees growing in masses. The river is then seen to be in a gorge, worn by the perpetual action of her waters, and we have only attained to the natural level of the country.
This level is, however, broken by many other gorges89, each containing its stream, bounding downwards90 to our river. Towards the horizon also (as we have mentioned in describing the view above Neumagen) the table-land generally rises into higher ranges; thus there is never any monotony about the scenery, which is enlivened by the spires91 of churches, and busy labourers at work in what seemed to us like Jack92 and the Bean-stalk’s country. It so strongly resembles the description given, where the immortal93 Jack climbs up and up his bean-stalk, until at length he arrives at the level of a new world. [123]
In autumn, when the weeds, &c. are being burnt, the scenes on this table-land are very striking. Far as the eye can reach wreathe up the columns of white smoke, spreading a purifying smell of burning, and wrapping the view in a filmy veil that increases its beauty.
The name of Piesport is derived94 from Pipini Portus, the place having been thus called from being an allod of the Carlovingian house, of which Pepin was the founder95.
Clausen, which lies at a short distance from Piesport, contains a miraculous96 picture of the Virgin97, which was originally brought from Trèves by the zealous98 Saint Eberhard, whose hermitage stood in the forest.
The Saint built a chapel, and in it he placed this wonderful picture: here many miracles were performed; on one occasion a paralytic99 man was completely restored to the use of his limbs: he threw away his crutches100, and walked home, no longer requiring the horse that had brought him.
The miracles wrought101 in the Saint’s little chapel gave great offence to the constituted Priest of Clausen, and eventually the picture was removed to his church; but it ceased to perform miracles, its virtue was gone, and now it is only regarded with veneration102 on account of its former celebrity103.
Having now arrived in the heart of the wine-district, we will proceed to give some little account of the vintage, which occupies all attention and employs all hands in these parts. [124]
And, with the merry peasants, we will sing the praise of their good genius:—
THE VINE.
The vine! the vine!
Hurrah104 for the vine!
That gives us wine—
Bright, joyous105 wine;
Hurrah for the merry vine!
O maiden106 mine,
Press out the wine
With feet that shine
Like gems107 in mine,—
Press out the glorious wine!
The clusters press
With firm caress108
Of glist’ning feet,
That merry meet:
Flow freely forth, O wine!
Then, maiden sweet,
With full lip meet
My offer’d kiss;
Complete my bliss54,
And quaff109 with me the wine.
So love and wine
Shall thus combine,
And no alloy110
Shall mar9 our joy,
As thus we quaff the wine.
So, sing the vine—
Hurrah for the vine!
That gives us wine—
Bright, joyous wine;
Hurrah for the merry vine!
1 According to Eusebius.
点击收听单词发音
1 attained | |
(通常经过努力)实现( attain的过去式和过去分词 ); 达到; 获得; 达到(某年龄、水平、状况) | |
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2 enchantment | |
n.迷惑,妖术,魅力 | |
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3 replete | |
adj.饱满的,塞满的;n.贮蜜蚁 | |
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4 trifling | |
adj.微不足道的;没什么价值的 | |
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5 promontory | |
n.海角;岬 | |
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6 celebrated | |
adj.有名的,声誉卓著的 | |
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7 bishop | |
n.主教,(国际象棋)象 | |
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8 entirely | |
ad.全部地,完整地;完全地,彻底地 | |
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9 mar | |
vt.破坏,毁坏,弄糟 | |
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10 virtuous | |
adj.有品德的,善良的,贞洁的,有效力的 | |
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11 repulsed | |
v.击退( repulse的过去式和过去分词 );驳斥;拒绝 | |
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12 esteem | |
n.尊敬,尊重;vt.尊重,敬重;把…看作 | |
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13 slain | |
杀死,宰杀,杀戮( slay的过去分词 ); (slay的过去分词) | |
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14 lessened | |
减少的,减弱的 | |
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15 persecuting | |
(尤指宗教或政治信仰的)迫害(~sb. for sth.)( persecute的现在分词 ); 烦扰,困扰或骚扰某人 | |
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16 pacified | |
使(某人)安静( pacify的过去式和过去分词 ); 息怒; 抚慰; 在(有战争的地区、国家等)实现和平 | |
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17 hind | |
adj.后面的,后部的 | |
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18 forth | |
adv.向前;向外,往外 | |
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19 exhausted | |
adj.极其疲惫的,精疲力尽的 | |
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20 nun | |
n.修女,尼姑 | |
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21 iniquity | |
n.邪恶;不公正 | |
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22 nuns | |
n.(通常指基督教的)修女, (佛教的)尼姑( nun的名词复数 ) | |
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23 fetters | |
n.脚镣( fetter的名词复数 );束缚v.给…上脚镣,束缚( fetter的第三人称单数 ) | |
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24 swooped | |
俯冲,猛冲( swoop的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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25 followers | |
追随者( follower的名词复数 ); 用户; 契据的附面; 从动件 | |
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26 prey | |
n.被掠食者,牺牲者,掠食;v.捕食,掠夺,折磨 | |
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27 convoy | |
vt.护送,护卫,护航;n.护送;护送队 | |
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28 carousing | |
v.痛饮,闹饮欢宴( carouse的现在分词 ) | |
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29 brooks | |
n.小溪( brook的名词复数 ) | |
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30 lateral | |
adj.侧面的,旁边的 | |
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31 recess | |
n.短期休息,壁凹(墙上装架子,柜子等凹处) | |
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32 penetrating | |
adj.(声音)响亮的,尖锐的adj.(气味)刺激的adj.(思想)敏锐的,有洞察力的 | |
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33 gorge | |
n.咽喉,胃,暴食,山峡;v.塞饱,狼吞虎咽地吃 | |
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34 glide | |
n./v.溜,滑行;(时间)消逝 | |
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35 serpentine | |
adj.蜿蜒的,弯曲的 | |
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36 swell | |
vi.膨胀,肿胀;增长,增强 | |
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37 homage | |
n.尊敬,敬意,崇敬 | |
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38 peculiar | |
adj.古怪的,异常的;特殊的,特有的 | |
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40 descends | |
v.下来( descend的第三人称单数 );下去;下降;下斜 | |
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41 barge | |
n.平底载货船,驳船 | |
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42 sluggish | |
adj.懒惰的,迟钝的,无精打采的 | |
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43 barges | |
驳船( barge的名词复数 ) | |
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44 applied | |
adj.应用的;v.应用,适用 | |
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45 mantle | |
n.斗篷,覆罩之物,罩子;v.罩住,覆盖,脸红 | |
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46 conceal | |
v.隐藏,隐瞒,隐蔽 | |
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47 cloister | |
n.修道院;v.隐退,使与世隔绝 | |
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48 pointed | |
adj.尖的,直截了当的 | |
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49 constellations | |
n.星座( constellation的名词复数 );一群杰出人物;一系列(相关的想法、事物);一群(相关的人) | |
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50 ripening | |
v.成熟,使熟( ripen的现在分词 );熟化;熟成 | |
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51 monarch | |
n.帝王,君主,最高统治者 | |
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52 wilt | |
v.(使)植物凋谢或枯萎;(指人)疲倦,衰弱 | |
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53 spoke | |
n.(车轮的)辐条;轮辐;破坏某人的计划;阻挠某人的行动 v.讲,谈(speak的过去式);说;演说;从某种观点来说 | |
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54 bliss | |
n.狂喜,福佑,天赐的福 | |
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55 glorified | |
美其名的,变荣耀的 | |
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56 beckons | |
v.(用头或手的动作)示意,召唤( beckon的第三人称单数 ) | |
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57 erect | |
n./v.树立,建立,使竖立;adj.直立的,垂直的 | |
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58 bestowed | |
赠给,授予( bestow的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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59 virtue | |
n.德行,美德;贞操;优点;功效,效力 | |
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60 animating | |
v.使有生气( animate的现在分词 );驱动;使栩栩如生地动作;赋予…以生命 | |
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61 blessing | |
n.祈神赐福;祷告;祝福,祝愿 | |
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62 blessings | |
n.(上帝的)祝福( blessing的名词复数 );好事;福分;因祸得福 | |
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63 luminous | |
adj.发光的,发亮的;光明的;明白易懂的;有启发的 | |
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64 situated | |
adj.坐落在...的,处于某种境地的 | |
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65 chapel | |
n.小教堂,殡仪馆 | |
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66 ERECTED | |
adj. 直立的,竖立的,笔直的 vt. 使 ... 直立,建立 | |
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67 tinged | |
v.(使)发丁丁声( ting的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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68 massacre | |
n.残杀,大屠杀;v.残杀,集体屠杀 | |
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69 Christian | |
adj.基督教徒的;n.基督教徒 | |
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70 martyrs | |
n.martyr的复数形式;烈士( martyr的名词复数 );殉道者;殉教者;乞怜者(向人诉苦以博取同情) | |
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71 ascending | |
adj.上升的,向上的 | |
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72 varied | |
adj.多样的,多变化的 | |
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73 refreshing | |
adj.使精神振作的,使人清爽的,使人喜欢的 | |
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74 receding | |
v.逐渐远离( recede的现在分词 );向后倾斜;自原处后退或避开别人的注视;尤指问题 | |
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75 fiery | |
adj.燃烧着的,火红的;暴躁的;激烈的 | |
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76 inscription | |
n.(尤指石块上的)刻印文字,铭文,碑文 | |
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77 celestial | |
adj.天体的;天上的 | |
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78 vanquish | |
v.征服,战胜;克服;抑制 | |
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79 surmounted | |
战胜( surmount的过去式和过去分词 ); 克服(困难); 居于…之上; 在…顶上 | |
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80 royalty | |
n.皇家,皇族 | |
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81 hues | |
色彩( hue的名词复数 ); 色调; 信仰; 观点 | |
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82 edifice | |
n.宏伟的建筑物(如宫殿,教室) | |
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83 intervals | |
n.[军事]间隔( interval的名词复数 );间隔时间;[数学]区间;(戏剧、电影或音乐会的)幕间休息 | |
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84 regain | |
vt.重新获得,收复,恢复 | |
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85 coup | |
n.政变;突然而成功的行动 | |
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86 groves | |
树丛,小树林( grove的名词复数 ) | |
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87 spire | |
n.(教堂)尖顶,尖塔,高点 | |
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88 standing | |
n.持续,地位;adj.永久的,不动的,直立的,不流动的 | |
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89 gorges | |
n.山峡,峡谷( gorge的名词复数 );咽喉v.(用食物把自己)塞饱,填饱( gorge的第三人称单数 );作呕 | |
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90 downwards | |
adj./adv.向下的(地),下行的(地) | |
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91 spires | |
n.(教堂的) 塔尖,尖顶( spire的名词复数 ) | |
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92 jack | |
n.插座,千斤顶,男人;v.抬起,提醒,扛举;n.(Jake)杰克 | |
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93 immortal | |
adj.不朽的;永生的,不死的;神的 | |
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94 derived | |
vi.起源;由来;衍生;导出v.得到( derive的过去式和过去分词 );(从…中)得到获得;源于;(从…中)提取 | |
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95 Founder | |
n.创始者,缔造者 | |
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96 miraculous | |
adj.像奇迹一样的,不可思议的 | |
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97 virgin | |
n.处女,未婚女子;adj.未经使用的;未经开发的 | |
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98 zealous | |
adj.狂热的,热心的 | |
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99 paralytic | |
adj. 瘫痪的 n. 瘫痪病人 | |
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100 crutches | |
n.拐杖, 支柱 v.支撑 | |
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101 wrought | |
v.引起;以…原料制作;运转;adj.制造的 | |
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102 veneration | |
n.尊敬,崇拜 | |
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103 celebrity | |
n.名人,名流;著名,名声,名望 | |
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104 hurrah | |
int.好哇,万岁,乌拉 | |
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105 joyous | |
adj.充满快乐的;令人高兴的 | |
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106 maiden | |
n.少女,处女;adj.未婚的,纯洁的,无经验的 | |
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107 gems | |
growth; economy; management; and customer satisfaction 增长 | |
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108 caress | |
vt./n.爱抚,抚摸 | |
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109 quaff | |
v.一饮而尽;痛饮 | |
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110 alloy | |
n.合金,(金属的)成色 | |
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