From Berncastel, then, in the grey of early morning, we wander forth1. There are roads on both banks,[154]—small pleasant by-roads, through gardens and vineyards. As we proceed, and begin to think that coffee and new-laid eggs would be no encumbrance2, but rather help to balance the system, a faint tinge3 of crimson4 appears over the grey hills; little wreaths of mist break away from the mass of watery5 vapour that clings to the river’s banks, and curl upwards6 to the light, and then with all its glory comes the
BREAK OF DAY.
How beautiful the first faint rays of light,
Gilding7 the clouds that, banishing8 the night,
Come like swift messengers, and drive away
From us the darkness, ushering9 in the day!
The day approaches, brighter and more bright;
The heavens seem bursting with the coming light;
Up flames the sun! and first the lofty hills,
The corn and uplands, with his lustre10 fills;
The shades retire, the birds melodious11 sing,
The glad earth turns to meet its gracious King;
Cool blows the wind, the water freshly flows,
All earth rejoices and in sunlight glows.
How strong and full of life we feel as (having break-fasted) we stride along, drinking in with every breath the pure sweet air! “Guten morgen” has not yet given place to “Guten tag,” and the peasants are ascending12 to their labour amid the vines; suddenly a strain of martial13 music fills the air, and all look towards the trees through which now wind a body of soldiers, with their helmets glittering in the light; gaily14 they march along; the music ceases, and voices take up the strain, [155]which gradually sounds fainter as “the pomp of war” recedes15 into the distance, until at length the air is left free to the songs of birds.
The birds, the flowers, the trees, the river,—all inoculate16 our senses with their delights; all claim our praise and thankfulness: but to which shall we award
THE PRIZE OF BEAUTY?
The birds sang, “Unto us the prize
“Of beauty must be given;
“Our songs at morn and evening rise,
“Filling the vault17 of heaven.”
The flowers uplifted their bright heads
From where they had their birth;
“Nay, for our scented18 beauty sheds
“A charm o’er all the earth.”
The trees from ev’ry leafy glade19
Their claims with haste expressed;
They urged that they “gave cooling shade,
“’Neath which mankind could rest.”
The stream in gentle music said,
“Like birds I sweetly sing;
“Like flowers a charm o’er earth I spread,
“Like trees I coolness fling:
“Thus all their beauties I combine;
“And unto me is given
“A greater glory, for I shine
“With light that flows from heaven.”
Where we come to patches of grain-land we find the ploughman busy with his oxen turning up the fresh earth. The oxen are coupled together by short beams of wood, which are fastened to their heads, [156]and must keep the poor animals in a constant state of misery20; in other respects the cattle seem well cared for.
Occasionally we meet droves of sheep tended by boys and dogs. The sheep crop a precarious21 livelihood22 from the bits of waste land near the river and on the slopes of hills, whose aspect is unfavourable to the culture of the vine.
Arriving at Zeltingen, on the right bank, we taste one of the most delicious wines on the Moselle; it is of a fine rich colour, with a highly-scented flavour, but is withal light and sparkling. In the following incident it will be seen that this wine was properly appreciated by the prebends who owned the Martinshof farm in former days.
[Contents]
THE CASK IN RESERVE.
The fame of the wine made from the grapes that grew in the Martinshof vineyard penetrated23 even to Trèves, and the Elector Philip was very desirous to drink of a wine so renowned24; but the monks25, who owned the vineyard, would not take heed26 of the hints dropped by the Elector on this subject, as they did not love his tyrannical government.
The Elector, therefore, determined27, under the pretext28 of an official inspection29, to visit the Cloister30.
He accordingly arrived, and the prebends, who had been summoned to meet him, did not fail to make their appearance. [157]
The Abbot perceived that the inspection concerned more his cellar than his cloister. He kept his own counsel, and ordered different sorts of Rhine, Moselle, and Nahe wine to be set before the guests, murmuring the while to himself, “Drink on—drink away, my noble Elector and guests; but the Martinshof wine remains31, bright in the cellar: of the mother cask shalt thou never taste.”
When the Elector was about to leave he called the Abbot aside, and praised highly the wine he had drunk, and thanked him for his hospitality; he also invited the Abbot to Trèves, but told him he feared he could not give him as good wine as his own Martinshofberger.
The Abbot smiled, thanked him for the compliment, and added, that when the Elector should come to see his cloister, not his cellar, he would serve to him the real Martinshof wine; till then it would be saved for his true friends.
The prebendaries and monks were so fond of good wine, that the people suppose their saints must also have a liking32 for grape-juice; therefore, as soon as the new wine is made each year, a bottle is placed in the hands of the effigy33 of the Patron Saint, or offered at his shrine34: who drinks it eventually, does not appear.
We seem to be quite out of the world on the banks of the Moselle. We wander along amid its ever-varying scenery with that delight which novelty always gives. At every turn new views break upon [158]us; at every step something calls our attention; now it is a flower, then a rock, and again a castle, a group of old houses or trees, or perhaps a little gay boat adorned35 with boughs36 of trees, in which children, celebrating a holiday, are singing: so we wander on, and find at midday that, owing to the many detentions37 caused by these things, and the frequent sketches38 the beauty of the localities have compelled us to make, we have progressed but little on our road. But what does it matter? we cannot be in a paradise too long; and at every few miles we are sure of finding a little village inn, with a clean room in which we may eat or sleep.
Cloister-Machern is on the left bank of our river, a little further down the stream than Zeltingen. This cloister once contained a lovely nun39, named
[Contents]
ERMESINDE.
Antioch had fallen before the Crusaders’ arms, and the Cross waved from her towers. The joyful40 tidings were brought to the banks of the Moselle, and bonfires celebrated41 the event. The pilgrim who had brought this news from over sea was feasted by Ermesinde’s father, and all gathered round him, eagerly catching42 his words.
He told of the deeds of valour performed by the Christian43 Knights45; and as Ermesinde greedily listened, but feared to question the pilgrim, he mentioned the name of her lover, and highly extolled46 him, mournfully adding, “Such valour as this Knight44 showed forth was [159]surpassed by none, but now the grave is closed over his glory.”
Hearing, poor Ermesinde fell as though dead, and lay motionless on the stone floor; then the pilgrim saw by the looks of those present that he had incautiously broken her heart. Further interrogating47 the pilgrim, Ermesinde’s father only gained a repetition of the first story told him, and other particulars seemed to confirm it.
The walls of Cloister-Machern received the poor broken reed, who offered to heaven a heart that was dead to the world.
Soon poor Ermesinde found that stone walls do not shut out wickedness, nor sombre dresses cover only morality; for in Cloister-Machern the nuns48, one and all, led scandalous lives, and mocked her for not joining with them. She resisted their wiles49, and sought refuge in prayer.
One evening a pilgrim arrived at the gate, and asked Ermesinde, who answered the bell, to give him refreshment50. As a strain of music, once familiar and dear, the sounds smote51 on the nun’s ear, and with a bewildered look she gazed on the pilgrim’s face; the light fell on her pale features, and the pilgrim exclaimed, “Ermesinde!” One long look into each other’s eyes and time had vanished, care was forgotten, intervening years had rolled away, and Ermesinde and Rupert were in each other’s arms.
Bound by her vows52, Ermesinde would not consent to accompany her lover in flight, but she agreed to [160]see him at intervals53; and while her sister nuns rioted in the hall she sometimes knelt with Rupert in the chapel54, where they prayed for each other’s happiness.
When waiting one night for her lover, an old beggar drew near, and prayed for some food. Ermesinde went in to fetch some, but the others refused her request that the old beggar should be relieved, and coming out to him, they drove him away with threats and abuse.
Then the old beggar turned round, and raising his hand to the heavens, cried out: “Woe be unto you, ye false servants of God! chastisement55 will soon overtake you.” So saying, he vanished into the dark cloudy night.
Rupert and Ermesinde were kneeling within the chapel when the storm which was threatening burst forth; fire struck from the clouds on the cloister, destroying the nuns in the hall; the chapel alone was preserved.
Ermesinde now was persuaded that she was released from her vows, and soon she pledged them to Rupert, and as his loved wife she worshipped her God and performed all her duties far better than those who uselessly shut themselves up from the world.
A curious old robbers’ nest is still to be seen in the Michaelslei, which is a tall red cliff, a mile or two further on. It consists of a cave, with a strong wall built over its mouth. No path used to lead there, and [161]long ladders were used by the robbers, who, drawing them up after them, were in perfect security.
This castellated cave was once used as a prison, in which an Archbishop was placed; this was the good Bishop56 Kuno, who was on his road to Trèves, where he was to be installed as Archbishop.
The prebends of Trèves wished not to have Kuno for their Archbishop. They, therefore, excited Count Theodorich, who was governor of their town, to send out armed men and capture the Bishop.
Accordingly, when halting at Kylburg, the Bishop, who was travelling in company with the Bishop of Spires57, was seized and carried off to the Michaelslei fortress58, and there thrown into a dungeon59.
Many days the good Bishop languished60 in his damp cell. At length four ruffians entered and carried him forth to the top of the rock; there binding61 his limbs, they addressed him as follows: “We have brought you here to see whether you are, indeed, elected of God; as if so, no harm will befall you.” Thus jeering62, they threw him down into the valley; but the Bishop sustaining no hurt, they twice repeated their deed.
Finding he was not thus to be slain63, they ended by killing64 him with their swords, and cut off his head.
The good Bishop was laid in a tomb, and many miracles were there performed. These coming to the ears of the Count Theodorich, his conscience smote him, and he took the cross and proceeded to the Holy Land. The vessel65, unable to uphold his guilty weight, [162]sank down, and the waters now shroud66 the remains of this wicked Count.
Rounding the promontory67 on which the Wolf’s Cloister is buried in trees, our river’s course turns for awhile in the direction of its source, so much does it wind. The Wolf Cloister is only a ruin, of which but little remains.
At a small chapel near here the Pastor68 of Traben used to perform a service on each Tuesday after Pentecost, and here gathered crowds from all parts to attend at the ceremony. All were covered with flowers, and the young of both sexes pelted69 each other with bouquets70, and dancing and merriment occupied all. But now, says the narrator (Storck), the convent and the sanctuary71 are no more; their place is filled with vineyards. The present age respects nothing but gold; popular fêtes, sanctuaries72, souvenirs of antiquity73, and rustic74 simplicity75, are alike swallowed up, and all is sacrificed for money.
A wonderful story is told of a young lady of these parts. One fine day in summer, a very beautiful girl of the family of Meesen was sitting at her open window, engaged in knitting. She was so occupied with her work or her thoughts, that she did not perceive the fearful storm that was rising over the mountains, until suddenly there came a clap of thunder that shook the whole house. Arising in haste, the “fr?ulein” endeavoured to shut to the window; but before she could accomplish her object a thunderbolt fell, and striking the metal-work which adorned the laces that [163]fastened her bodice, it passed through her garments, softening76 the metal clasps of her garters, and partially77 melting her shoe-buckles; then, without having harmed the fair fr?ulein, it burst its way out by the floor.1
Very high hills are surrounding us as we approach Trarbach, a beautifully wooded slope, and rich cliffs announce a site of more than ordinary beauty; but before we take our evening’s rest in Trarbach we must, landing at Riesbach, climb to the top of Mount Royal.
This fortress was made by Vauban for Louis XIV. It cost an immense sum of money, and people from all parts were collected and forced to work at its ramparts; but sixteen years after its completion it was dismantled78 in compliance79 with treaties, and only a few mounds80 and walls now mark the site.
Splendid views are seen from it on all sides. The river, starting from our feet, appears gliding81 in all directions; and the evening shadows are filling the valleys and climbing the hills, while the glory of the departing sun hangs yet upon the corn-fields.
MOUNT ROYAL.
Upon the Royal Mount I stood,
The day was waning82 to its close;
Soon the great “Giver of all good”
Would send to weary man repose83.
[164]
The glorious brilliancy of day
Now soon would leave the world to rest;
And speed on glowing wings away,
To shine on regions further west.
Beneath my feet, the haunts of men
With many sounds of eve were teeming84;
The herds85 returning home again
Drank where the river’s tide was gleaming.
Beside me were the wrecks86 of power
That had been grasped by hand of man;
Around me was that evening hour,
Reminding me how short the span
Of life which kingly pomp and pride,
Though strong on earth, yet vainly tries
To lengthen87 or to set aside,
When dying on his couch he lies.
Throw down thine iron sceptres then, O kings!
Lift up thy feet from off thy people’s necks;
No longer look on fellow-men as things,
Whose toil88 enriches and whose labour decks
Thy fleeting89 pomp, thy quickly-passing pride,
Which leaves thee but a worm when life decays;
When no proud robe thy earthly dust shall hide,
And vanished be the pomp of former days.
Like this dead king, whose ruined forts surround,
Lay not up on earth what ye deem glory,
But store that which hereafter may be found
Immortal90 crowns and thrones to set before ye.
1 This extraordinary incident is related as a simple matter of fact, which is well known in these parts.
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1
forth
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| adv.向前；向外，往外 | |
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2
encumbrance
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| n.妨碍物，累赘 | |
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3
tinge
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| vt.(较淡)着色于，染色；使带有…气息；n.淡淡色彩，些微的气息 | |
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4
crimson
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| n./adj.深(绯)红色(的)；vi.脸变绯红色 | |
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5
watery
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| adj.有水的，水汪汪的；湿的，湿润的 | |
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6
upwards
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| adv.向上，在更高处...以上 | |
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7
gilding
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| n.贴金箔，镀金 | |
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8
banishing
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| v.放逐，驱逐( banish的现在分词 ) | |
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9
ushering
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| v.引，领，陪同( usher的现在分词 ) | |
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10
lustre
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| n.光亮，光泽；荣誉 | |
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11
melodious
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| adj.旋律美妙的，调子优美的，音乐性的 | |
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12
ascending
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| adj.上升的，向上的 | |
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13
martial
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| adj.战争的，军事的，尚武的，威武的 | |
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14
gaily
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| adv.欢乐地，高兴地 | |
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15
recedes
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| v.逐渐远离( recede的第三人称单数 )；向后倾斜；自原处后退或避开别人的注视；尤指问题 | |
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16
inoculate
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| v.给...接种，给...注射疫苗 | |
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17
vault
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| n.拱形圆顶，地窖，地下室 | |
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18
scented
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| adj.有香味的；洒香水的；有气味的v.嗅到(scent的过去分词) | |
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19
glade
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| n.林间空地，一片表面有草的沼泽低地 | |
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20
misery
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| n.痛苦，苦恼，苦难；悲惨的境遇，贫苦 | |
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21
precarious
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| adj.不安定的，靠不住的；根据不足的 | |
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22
livelihood
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| n.生计，谋生之道 | |
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23
penetrated
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| adj. 击穿的，鞭辟入里的 动词penetrate的过去式和过去分词形式 | |
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24
renowned
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| adj.著名的，有名望的，声誉鹊起的 | |
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25
monks
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| n.修道士，僧侣( monk的名词复数 ) | |
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26
heed
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| v.注意，留意；n.注意，留心 | |
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27
determined
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| adj.坚定的；有决心的 | |
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28
pretext
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| n.借口，托词 | |
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29
inspection
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| n.检查，审查，检阅 | |
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30
cloister
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| n.修道院；v.隐退，使与世隔绝 | |
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31
remains
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| n.剩余物，残留物；遗体，遗迹 | |
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32
liking
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| n.爱好；嗜好；喜欢 | |
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33
effigy
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| n.肖像 | |
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34
shrine
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| n.圣地，神龛，庙；v.将...置于神龛内，把...奉为神圣 | |
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35
adorned
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| [计]被修饰的 | |
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36
boughs
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| 大树枝( bough的名词复数 ) | |
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37
detentions
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| 拘留( detention的名词复数 )； 扣押； 监禁； 放学后留校 | |
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38
sketches
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| n.草图( sketch的名词复数 )；素描；速写；梗概 | |
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nun
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| n.修女，尼姑 | |
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40
joyful
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| adj.欢乐的，令人欢欣的 | |
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41
celebrated
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| adj.有名的，声誉卓著的 | |
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42
catching
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| adj.易传染的，有魅力的，迷人的，接住 | |
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43
Christian
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| adj.基督教徒的；n.基督教徒 | |
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44
knight
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| n.骑士，武士；爵士 | |
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45
knights
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| 骑士； （中古时代的）武士( knight的名词复数 )； 骑士； 爵士； （国际象棋中）马 | |
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46
extolled
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| v.赞颂，赞扬，赞美( extol的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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47
interrogating
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| n.询问技术v.询问( interrogate的现在分词 )；审问；（在计算机或其他机器上）查询 | |
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48
nuns
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| n.（通常指基督教的）修女， （佛教的）尼姑( nun的名词复数 ) | |
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49
wiles
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| n.（旨在欺骗或吸引人的）诡计，花招；欺骗，欺诈( wile的名词复数 ) | |
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refreshment
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| n.恢复，精神爽快，提神之事物；（复数）refreshments:点心，茶点 | |
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51
smote
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| v.猛打，重击，打击( smite的过去式 ) | |
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vows
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| 誓言( vow的名词复数 )； 郑重宣布，许愿 | |
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53
intervals
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| n.[军事]间隔( interval的名词复数 )；间隔时间；[数学]区间；（戏剧、电影或音乐会的）幕间休息 | |
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chapel
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| n.小教堂，殡仪馆 | |
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chastisement
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| n.惩罚 | |
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bishop
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| n.主教，（国际象棋）象 | |
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spires
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| n.（教堂的） 塔尖，尖顶( spire的名词复数 ) | |
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fortress
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| n.堡垒，防御工事 | |
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dungeon
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| n.地牢，土牢 | |
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60
languished
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| 长期受苦( languish的过去式和过去分词 )； 受折磨； 变得（越来越）衰弱； 因渴望而变得憔悴或闷闷不乐 | |
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binding
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| 有约束力的，有效的，应遵守的 | |
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jeering
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| adj.嘲弄的，揶揄的v.嘲笑( jeer的现在分词 ) | |
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slain
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| 杀死，宰杀，杀戮( slay的过去分词 )； (slay的过去分词) | |
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killing
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| n.巨额利润；突然赚大钱，发大财 | |
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65
vessel
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| n.船舶；容器，器皿；管，导管，血管 | |
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shroud
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| n.裹尸布，寿衣；罩，幕；vt.覆盖，隐藏 | |
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promontory
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| n.海角；岬 | |
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pastor
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| n.牧师，牧人 | |
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69
pelted
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| （连续地）投掷( pelt的过去式和过去分词 )； 连续抨击； 攻击； 剥去…的皮 | |
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70
bouquets
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| n.花束( bouquet的名词复数 )；（酒的）芳香 | |
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71
sanctuary
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| n.圣所，圣堂，寺庙；禁猎区，保护区 | |
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72
sanctuaries
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| n.避难所( sanctuary的名词复数 )；庇护；圣所；庇护所 | |
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73
antiquity
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| n.古老；高龄；古物，古迹 | |
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74
rustic
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| adj.乡村的，有乡村特色的；n.乡下人，乡巴佬 | |
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75
simplicity
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| n.简单，简易；朴素；直率，单纯 | |
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76
softening
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| 变软，软化 | |
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77
partially
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| adv.部分地，从某些方面讲 | |
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78
dismantled
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| 拆开( dismantle的过去式和过去分词 )； 拆卸； 废除； 取消 | |
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compliance
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| n.顺从；服从；附和；屈从 | |
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80
mounds
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| 土堆，土丘( mound的名词复数 )； 一大堆 | |
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81
gliding
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| v. 滑翔 adj. 滑动的 | |
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82
waning
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| adj.（月亮）渐亏的，逐渐减弱或变小的n.月亏v.衰落( wane的现在分词 )；（月）亏；变小；变暗淡 | |
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83
repose
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| v.(使)休息；n.安息 | |
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84
teeming
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| adj.丰富的v.充满( teem的现在分词 )；到处都是；（指水、雨等）暴降；倾注 | |
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85
herds
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| 兽群( herd的名词复数 )； 牧群； 人群； 群众 | |
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86
wrecks
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| n.沉船( wreck的名词复数 )；（事故中）遭严重毁坏的汽车（或飞机等）；（身体或精神上）受到严重损伤的人；状况非常糟糕的车辆（或建筑物等）v.毁坏[毁灭]某物( wreck的第三人称单数 )；使（船舶）失事，使遇难，使下沉 | |
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87
lengthen
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| vt.使伸长，延长 | |
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88
toil
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| vi.辛劳工作，艰难地行动；n.苦工，难事 | |
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89
fleeting
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| adj.短暂的，飞逝的 | |
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90
immortal
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| adj.不朽的；永生的，不死的；神的 | |
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