After a refit and taking on board six months’ provisions and stores, as we were ordered to fit foreign, our signal was made to proceed to sea under sealed orders, taking with us a sloop5 of war. On the tenth day we anchored in Funchal Roads, Madeira, with our consort6. The day following was the natal7 day of our gracious Queen, on which occasion we both fired a royal salute8 and dressed the ships with flags. The captain, with as many of the officers as could be spared, was invited to dine with the consul9 at Funchal. At four o’clock the captain, two of my messmates and myself, left the ship, and in half an hour afterwards we reached the consul’s house, where we met an agreeable party, consisting of four English ladies and eight gentlemen. It was the month of June, and the weather was very warm, but it did not prevent us from seeing the town and visiting some of the nunneries. The former was scarcely worth our trouble, and the latter gave us, from the nuns’ [pg 235]appearance, no very high opinion of female beauty. We visited some of the vineyards. The vines, trained over arched trellis work, extend to some distance, and when in full leaf afford a delightful10 shade. The grapes are generally remarkably11 large and of a delicious flavour. The morning before sailing I found the best bower12 cable was two-thirds cut through by some small, sharp instrument on the turn round the bit-head. The hands were turned up and singly interrogated13. Nobody knew anything about it. All appeared anxious to find out the culprit, but in vain. Had the cable parted in the night we should not have had room to have let go the small bower, and must have gone on the rocks.
In the afternoon we sailed, ran along the Canary Islands, and in five days afterwards anchored off the island of Goree. This small, tolerably well-fortified island is a few miles from Cape de Verde. It possesses no harbour, but the anchorage off the town is good. It produces nothing but a few cotton bushes. The inhabitants are very poor. They manufacture cotton cloths, in which they clothe themselves. They are a mixture of black, brown and white. Their features are more of the Arabian than the African cast. They speak corrupt14 English, French and Portuguese15. They are very proud and equally independent. The better class live in small houses made of mud and clay, the inferiors in cone-shaped buildings something like Indian kraals, formed [pg 236]neatly of bamboo and surrounded by a bamboo wall. The Governor, Colonel Lloyd, gave us an invitation to dinner and a ball. I was one of the party. The former consisted of buffalo16 soup, fish, and Muscovy ducks, the latter of a number of brown ladies dressed like bales of cotton. Dancing with them might be compared to a cooper working round a cask. Some few had tolerably regular features, and I noticed the captain making love like a Greenland bear to the girl I danced with.
The second morning after our arrival I was sent with two cutters to haul the seine off the mainland about three miles to the westward17 of Cape de Verde. As soon as we had made the first haul, in which we had taken a quantity of herrings, about twenty of the inhabitants of that part of the coast rushed towards the fish with the intention of seizing them. I desired the marines we had with us to present their muskets20 in order to frighten them. It answered perfectly21, and they retired22. I then desired two of the seamen23 to take a quantity of the fish and lay them down at some short distance, and I beckoned24 to the natives to come and take them, which they did, tumbling over each other in the scramble25. After having taken a quantity of herrings in three hauls, besides several larger fish, I proceeded with one of the marines and the coxswain to the town.
I found it a miserable26 place, much like Goree, but three times the size, and surrounded by a high fence of thick bamboo matting, supported by [pg 237]long stakes. All I could purchase were two old Muscovy ducks, some pumpkins28, and a few cocoanuts. One of the ducks got adrift, and a long, lean, hungry girl caught it and ran off with it into the brushwood, where we lost sight of her. The people of Goree informed us they were terrible thieves, and we proved it. The following day I again paid a visit to these Patagonian people, for the greater part of the men at Cape de Verde were more than six feet in stature29 and very slight. They all carried long lances, principally because of the numerous pattigoes, or hyenas30, in their neighbourhood. The purser, who was with me, purchased with some rum which the coxswain of the boat brought with him two sacks of beans and some oranges. I mentioned the loss of my duck the day before to a man who understood English and spoke31 it indifferently. As I stood alongside of him, both the purser and myself, who were five feet seven, appeared like pigmies. He was at least seven feet two inches, and had an amazing long lance in his hand. He laughed loud and long at my recital32. “Ah, Buckra,” at last he chuckled33 out, “you takee care anoder time, eh! and you no lettee de duck run abay; if you do, anoder piccaninny girl hab it again, eh?”
“Confound this fellow!” said the purser; “I believe he is a worse rogue34 than the girl. Have you had enough of his palaver35?” “Almost too much,” answered I. “Let us pull foot.” We returned to the boat, and after an hour’s row [pg 238]got on board. The following day I dined with Commissary Hamilton, who showed me a letter from the interesting Mr. Mungo Park, who was surgeon of the regiment36 he belonged to. Mr. Hamilton told me he had set out with forty in his party, but that in consequence of sickness it was reduced to twenty-five; but notwithstanding these drawbacks Park wrote in good spirits, and was determined37 to persevere38 in his journey to Timbuctoo.
Before we sailed I made another excursion on the mainland, and fell in with fourteen Arabian travelling merchants. They were seated on the ground like London tailors, surrounded by their bales of goods, principally rough cotton, with six camels and two tame ostriches40. The former were lying down, the latter walking about and searching for food among the short, rank grass and stones. Some of the latter I observed they swallowed. I purchased from the merchants some ostrich39 eggs. They asked me to give them rum. One of them, who spoke a little English, and was interpreter for the others, told me they intended coming on board to see the ship, and to shake hands with the captain. I informed him he would feel himself highly flattered by such Arabian condescension41, but that they must make haste, as the ship would sail in a day or two. They all begged to shake hands with us, for the marine18 officer accompanied me. On returning to the boat we found two of the natives, who appeared at a distance more like maypoles [pg 239]than men, endeavouring to hold a conversation with the boat’s crew. The coxswain told me they had fallen in love with the boat-hook, and offered in exchange one of their lances. When we appeared their thoughts were turned from the boat-hook to the marine officer’s sword, and they requested him, by signs, to make an exchange. Another native had joined the other two, armed with a musket19. I made signs to him to let me look at it, but he would not trust it out of his hands. I remarked it was an old English worn-out gun without a hammer to the lock. Perceiving that they were beginning to be troublesome, we jumped into the boat and threw them some biscuits, which they devoured42 with the appetite of wolves.
We had not been on board an hour when we were honoured with a visit from four of the Arabians, who, without ceremony, went up to the captain and shook him by the hand, and asked him for the purser. The latter very opportunely43 made his appearance, when the captain pointed2 him out to the Arab who spoke broken English. He soon left the latter, and accosted44 the former with unblushing effrontery45, and asked him for a cask of flour. “And for what?” demanded the purser. “Because I your good friend,” was the answer. “You are an impudent46, beggarly rascal,” said our hasty-tempered purveyor47 of provisions to him. “What can I see in your precious ugly black face that will induce me to give you anything but a good kicking?” “Patience and policy, messmate,” I said. [pg 240]“Where is your philosophy? Let your steward48 give them a few biscuits and a dram, and get rid of them.” To this proposal, after a grumble49, he assented50, and they departed.
The following morning we weighed, and made all sail for Cape Coast Roads. On our passage we experienced heavy squalls of wind and rain, which frequently obliged us to clew all up. We anchored at Sierra Leone on the fourth day, and found the colony healthy. After remaining two days to complete our water, we left it, and proceeded to our destination. We anchored off Cape Coast a few days afterwards, at a respectable distance, as the surf breaks two miles from the shore. The ship’s boats on this part of the coast are useless. Were they to attempt to land they would soon be swamped and knocked to pieces, and the crews drowned. Native canoes of from eight to twenty paddles are only used, and it requires great caution and dexterity51 by the black boatmen to prevent their being upset. I once came off in a large canoe with twenty paddles. On the third rolling surf she was half filled, and I was washed out of the chair among the paddlers. As soon as the sails were furled, a large canoe came off from the Governor with an invitation for the captain to dine with him. I remarked that the greater part of the coal-coloured crew of the canoe had the wool on their heads tied into about thirty tails an inch in length. A painter might have manufactured a tolerable Gorgonian head from among them.
[pg 241]
On the following day we were visited by several flat-nosed, thick-lipped, black-skinned ladies, who came off with the express purpose of being married to some of the man-of-war buckras. They soon found husbands. In the afternoon a canoe came alongside with a tall grasshopper52 of a woman as ugly as sin and as black as the ace27 of spades, with a little girl about seven years old a shade, if possible, blacker, and as great a beauty as herself. One of the canoe men came on the quarter-deck with them. He made a leg and pulled one of the many tails of his wool, and addressed me as follows: “Massa officer, Massa Buckra Captain hab sent him wife off and him piccaninny.” Saying this he gave me a note, which was addressed to his steward, the barber, who came and told me, to my amazement53, that the animal on two ill-formed legs was to have the use of the captain’s cabin. Thinks I to myself, “Wonders will never cease. There is no accounting54 for taste. Some people are over nice, some not nice enough.” About two hours after our gallant55 captain came on board, I presume love-sick, for he either looked love or shame-stricken. Probably I was mistaken, as I concluded he had discarded the latter when he entered the Service as an unmanly appendage56.
Whilst here I went on shore with some of my messmates, and dined with the mess at the Castle off goat, boiled, broiled57, roasted, stewed58, and devilled, and some fish. In short they have nothing else except some half-starved [pg 242]fowls and Muscovy ducks; sometimes, but not very often, buffalo beef, which is so tough that after you have swallowed it—for you cannot chew it—you are liable to indigestion for two months or so; so naturally they prefer young goat. The Castle, which stands on an eminence60, is strong on the sea face, but I presume it would not hold out long on the land side against a regular siege, but as I am no engineer, I will leave it, as Moore’s Almanac says of the hieroglyphic61, to the learned and the curious. The town consists of small, low huts, the greater part of which are built of stakes and mud, whitewashed62 over, and thatched with palm leaves. I saw a spot of parched63, arid64 ground which was designated a botanical garden. If it did not contain many exotics, it did a most savage65 tiger, which was enclosed in an iron cage.
We had been cruising along the coast, and sometimes anchoring for about five weeks, when the captain of the sloop of war was promoted from this fleeting66 world to a better. I was, in consequence, appointed as her captain, being in my ninth year as lieutenant67 when I obtained my promotion68. I parted company with the frigate69 shortly afterwards, and anchored off Accrah. A canoe soon came off with an invitation from the Governor requesting my company to dinner. I accepted it and went on shore, where I was received by a young man who was more merchant than soldier, but who had command of the fort which commanded the roadstead and the town. He informed me that a little distance from [pg 243]the town was a large lagoon70 or lake in which were frequently found four or more large tame alligators. “For,” added he, “although the natives often suffer from their depredations71, and once one of their children was devoured by one of these reptiles73, they hold them sacred, and they are ‘fetiched’ or made holy.” “I should much like to see one,” said I. “I will,” answered he, “send for one of the Cabaceers, or head men of the town, and we shall soon know if there are any in the neighbourhood.” A quarter of an hour had elapsed when in came a grave-looking black man dressed in blue serge, with a gold-headed long cane74 in his hand, the badge of his office. He informed the Governor there was a large alligator4 at the bottom of the lake, and that if he would provide him with a white fowl59 and a bottle of rum, his people might possibly lure75 him out. About an hour expired when we heard a bustle76 not far distant, and a man came to apprise77 us that the alligator was in the town, that a marabout, or priest, was ready to fetich it, and only waited for us. We had not proceeded more than twelve yards from the fort when we saw the reptile72, which was about eighteen feet long, in full trot78 after a man who held the unfortunate fowl destined79 to be the victim. As soon as we approached he turned short round. The reptile, with his upper jaw80 nearly thrown on the back of his head, was some time in turning, owing to its length and the shortness of its legs, and was again in chase of the man who held the fowl. The marabout now came after it, and [pg 244]when close to its tail, threw the rum over it, mumbling81 some strange sounds. It was then considered sacred, and death would have been the punishment of those who hurt it. Before it came to the margin82 of the lagoon, the man with the poor fowl, which was more than half-dead with fright, slackened his pace, and threw it into the alligator’s mouth. The reptile then made for the water, sank to the bottom, and ate the miserable bird. We returned to dinner, which consisted of a hearty83 welcome, some excellent fish, fowl soup, boiled fowl with ham, and a roasted saddle of kid, with yams and plantains, pine-apples and oranges, madeira and sherry. In the evening I took leave of my hospitable84 host and repaired on board, and the following morning put to sea.
After cruising for six weeks in chase of the wind—for we saw nothing during that period except two slave ships from Liverpool, from whom we procured85 a few indifferent potatoes—we again anchored off Cape Coast. I went on shore and paid my respects to the Governor, General Tourenne, in a new character. I had once dined with him when lieutenant of the frigate; he did not recollect86 me, but requested me whenever I was disposed to take up my residence at the Castle, and to consider it my home during the time I remained on the station. “The Ashantee, or Assentee nation have,” continued he, “been very troublesome of late and have declared war against the Fantee nation, who are under our protection, as it is through them all the [pg 245]commerce along the coast takes place, and of this, the Ashantees, who are the inland nation, wish to partake. Your being in the roads will in some measure check them.” I promised to visit the roads as often as my other duties would permit me, and if necessary assist with the marines.
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1
cape
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| n.海角，岬；披肩，短披风 | |
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pointed
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| adj.尖的，直截了当的 | |
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alligators
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| n.短吻鳄( alligator的名词复数 ) | |
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alligator
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| n.短吻鳄(一种鳄鱼) | |
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sloop
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| n.单桅帆船 | |
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consort
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| v.相伴；结交 | |
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natal
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| adj.出生的，先天的 | |
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salute
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| vi.行礼，致意，问候，放礼炮；vt.向…致意，迎接，赞扬；n.招呼，敬礼，礼炮 | |
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consul
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| n.领事；执政官 | |
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delightful
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| adj.令人高兴的，使人快乐的 | |
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remarkably
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| ad.不同寻常地，相当地 | |
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bower
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| n.凉亭，树荫下凉快之处；闺房；v.荫蔽 | |
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interrogated
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| v.询问( interrogate的过去式和过去分词 )；审问；（在计算机或其他机器上）查询 | |
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corrupt
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| v.贿赂，收买；adj.腐败的，贪污的 | |
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Portuguese
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| n.葡萄牙人；葡萄牙语 | |
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buffalo
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| n.(北美)野牛；(亚洲)水牛 | |
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westward
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| n.西方，西部；adj.西方的，向西的；adv.向西 | |
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marine
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| adj.海的；海生的；航海的；海事的；n.水兵 | |
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musket
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| n.滑膛枪 | |
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muskets
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| n.火枪，（尤指）滑膛枪( musket的名词复数 ) | |
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perfectly
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| adv.完美地，无可非议地，彻底地 | |
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retired
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| adj.隐退的，退休的，退役的 | |
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seamen
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| n.海员 | |
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beckoned
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| v.（用头或手的动作）示意，召唤( beckon的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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scramble
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| v.爬行，攀爬，杂乱蔓延，碎片，片段，废料 | |
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miserable
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| adj.悲惨的，痛苦的；可怜的，糟糕的 | |
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ace
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| n.A牌；发球得分；佼佼者；adj.杰出的 | |
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pumpkins
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| n.南瓜( pumpkin的名词复数 )；南瓜的果肉，南瓜囊 | |
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stature
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| n.（高度）水平，（高度）境界，身高，身材 | |
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hyenas
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| n.鬣狗( hyena的名词复数 ) | |
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spoke
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| n.（车轮的）辐条；轮辐；破坏某人的计划；阻挠某人的行动 v.讲，谈（speak的过去式）；说；演说；从某种观点来说 | |
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recital
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| n.朗诵，独奏会，独唱会 | |
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chuckled
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| 轻声地笑( chuckle的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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rogue
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| n.流氓；v.游手好闲 | |
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palaver
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| adj.壮丽堂皇的；n.废话，空话 | |
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regiment
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| n.团，多数，管理；v.组织，编成团，统制 | |
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determined
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| adj.坚定的；有决心的 | |
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persevere
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| v.坚持，坚忍，不屈不挠 | |
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ostrich
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| n.鸵鸟 | |
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ostriches
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| n.鸵鸟( ostrich的名词复数 )；逃避现实的人，不愿正视现实者 | |
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condescension
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| n.自以为高人一等，贬低(别人) | |
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devoured
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| 吞没( devour的过去式和过去分词 )； 耗尽； 津津有味地看； 狼吞虎咽地吃光 | |
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opportunely
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| adv.恰好地，适时地 | |
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accosted
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| v.走过去跟…讲话( accost的过去式和过去分词 )；跟…搭讪；（乞丐等）上前向…乞讨；（妓女等）勾搭 | |
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45
effrontery
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| n.厚颜无耻 | |
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impudent
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| adj.鲁莽的，卑鄙的，厚颜无耻的 | |
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purveyor
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| n.承办商，伙食承办商 | |
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steward
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| n.乘务员，服务员；看管人；膳食管理员 | |
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grumble
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| vi.抱怨；咕哝；n.抱怨，牢骚；咕哝，隆隆声 | |
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assented
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| 同意，赞成( assent的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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51
dexterity
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| n.(手的)灵巧，灵活 | |
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grasshopper
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| n.蚱蜢，蝗虫，蚂蚱 | |
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amazement
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| n.惊奇，惊讶 | |
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accounting
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| n.会计，会计学，借贷对照表 | |
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gallant
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| adj.英勇的，豪侠的；(向女人)献殷勤的 | |
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appendage
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| n.附加物 | |
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broiled
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| a.烤过的 | |
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stewed
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| adj.焦虑不安的，烂醉的v.炖( stew的过去式和过去分词 )；煨；思考；担忧 | |
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fowl
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| n.家禽，鸡，禽肉 | |
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eminence
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| n.卓越，显赫；高地，高处；名家 | |
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hieroglyphic
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| n.象形文字 | |
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whitewashed
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| 粉饰，美化，掩饰( whitewash的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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parched
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| adj.焦干的；极渴的；v.（使）焦干 | |
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arid
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| adj.干旱的；(土地)贫瘠的 | |
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savage
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| adj.野蛮的；凶恶的，残暴的；n.未开化的人 | |
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fleeting
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| adj.短暂的，飞逝的 | |
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lieutenant
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| n.陆军中尉，海军上尉；代理官员，副职官员 | |
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promotion
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| n.提升，晋级；促销，宣传 | |
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frigate
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| n.护航舰，大型驱逐舰 | |
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lagoon
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| n.泻湖，咸水湖 | |
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depredations
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| n.劫掠，毁坏( depredation的名词复数 ) | |
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reptile
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| n.爬行动物；两栖动物 | |
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reptiles
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| n.爬行动物，爬虫( reptile的名词复数 ) | |
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cane
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| n.手杖，细长的茎，藤条；v.以杖击，以藤编制的 | |
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lure
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| n.吸引人的东西，诱惑物；vt.引诱，吸引 | |
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bustle
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| v.喧扰地忙乱，匆忙，奔忙；n.忙碌；喧闹 | |
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apprise
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| vt.通知，告知 | |
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trot
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| n.疾走，慢跑；n.老太婆；现成译本；(复数）trots:腹泻（与the 连用）；v.小跑，快步走，赶紧 | |
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destined
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| adj.命中注定的；(for)以…为目的地的 | |
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jaw
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| n.颚，颌，说教，流言蜚语；v.喋喋不休，教训 | |
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mumbling
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| 含糊地说某事，叽咕，咕哝( mumble的现在分词 ) | |
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margin
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| n.页边空白；差额；余地，余裕；边，边缘 | |
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hearty
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| adj.热情友好的；衷心的；尽情的，纵情的 | |
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hospitable
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| adj.好客的；宽容的；有利的，适宜的 | |
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procured
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| v.（努力）取得， （设法）获得( procure的过去式和过去分词 )；拉皮条 | |
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recollect
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| v.回忆，想起，记起，忆起，记得 | |
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