After remaining a few days, during which time nothing transpired4 that required our presence, we again weighed and sailed along the coast towards the Bight of Benin. We experienced frequent calms with much squally weather, attended with vivid lightning and heavy rain. Finding a current setting round the bight to the eastward5, we were obliged to carry a press of sail to act against it, and were nearly three weeks working up from Cape St. Paul’s to Dix Cove6, where we anchored. On this part of the coast, particularly Dix Cove, you may land without the assistance of a canoe, as the surf is not so rolling or so high. There is a small English settlement here, which I visited, and dined with the principal settler. The town is small and not worth a description. We procured7 a quantity of oranges and cocoanuts, and I had the opportunity of witnessing the native dancing. A tom-tom, or rough kind of long drum, is beaten by two men, to the noise of which (for it was anything but music) they keep time. The dancers, particularly the [pg 247]women, appeared by their gestures and movements to be in a state of delirium8; they certainly were much excited, and kept up such a continued howl that I soon took my departure.
As I turned round I came in contact with a most pitiable object—a sickly, dead-white coloured native. I had heard of such beings, but had never seen one. He was about five feet five inches high, and very thin; his features were rather more prominent than those of a negro, his eyes were very small, very weak, and of a reddish hue9. He appeared by his manner to be an idiot. He held out his hands to me in a supplicating10 manner. I gave him a small piece of money; he looked earnestly in my face, and mixed with the crowd. On returning to the town I passed three females with different coloured ochres smeared11 over their bodies. On inquiry12, I found they were subject to fever and ague, and the application of different earths was their best mode of treating this complaint. Three weeks afterwards we again visited Cape Coast Roads, where we found the frigate13, who had lost the marine14 officer and several of the seamen15. Whenever the surgeon reported five men on the sick list in harbour I immediately put to sea, and to amuse the crew we got up some pantomimes. They were ridiculous enough, but they answered the purpose and kept all hands in good humour. The consequence was that we did not lose one man during the four months we were on the coast.
I received orders from the captain of the frigate [pg 248]to repair to Sierra Leone and proceed to the West Indies with the slave ships as soon as they were ready. We had now been more than two months on this station without capturing anything, and we were much pleased with the order to change. On taking leave of the Governor, he told me he had had a palaver16 with the King of the Ashantees, whom he described as a fine, high-spirited young man. “I have been trying,” said he, “to prevail on him to make peace with the Fantees. The King’s answer to my request was brief and positive. ‘What,’ asked he, ‘is your most sacred oath?’ ‘We swear by our God,’ I replied. ‘Then,’ said the king of the savages17, ‘I swear by an Englishman’s God that instead of making peace with the Fantee nation I will exterminate19 the whole race.’ ‘Not those under the protection of the British flag?’ said I. ‘Yes,’ returned he, ‘all, and without exception.’ ‘Then if you do persist in so fatal a purpose, you must take the consequences, for I also swear that if you or any of your people come in a hostile manner within reach of our guns, I will shoot every one of you.’ He gave me a look of fierce defiance20, and informed me by the interpreter that the palaver was over. On which I took my leave, not highly pleased. You are going to leave us, I understand,” said he. “I much regret it, for we have just made your acquaintance, and I should like to have continued it.” I acknowledged the compliment, which I believe was sincere. “To-morrow,” [pg 249]continued he, “I am invited to dine at the Danish settlement. The Governor is a very good kind of man, well-informed, and hospitable21. Would you like to accompany me? He speaks English, and I am sure would feel flattered by your visit.”
I consented, and at four o’clock in the afternoon on the following day I was at the Castle, where eight stout22 black men, with palanquins, were ready to carry us. I found this mode of travelling very easy and agreeable. The hammock in which I reclined was made of a long grass, stained with several colours; two of the bearers carried it on their shoulders by a pole, the other two sang songs, kept off the mosquitoes and sunflies by whisking about a branch of a cocoanut tree over the hammock, and occasionally relieved the others. On our journey we paid a short visit and took Schnapps with the Governor of a Dutch settlement, who saluted23 us with his four guns (all he had), and in so doing knocked down some of the parapet of his fort, which dismounted half of them. My bearers were so frightened by the report that they let me fall. As their fears soon subsided24, and I was not hurt, we continued our journey. About three-quarters of an hour brought us within sight of Cronenburg Castle, the Danish settlement, when we were met by a set of wild black men, who called themselves men of war. They had a leathern case containing a musket25 cartridge26 hanging from the cartilage of their noses. This gave them the appearance of having large moustachios, and if they did not look very [pg 250]warlike, they looked ridiculously savage18. They kept constantly charging and firing muskets27, without any order, in honour of our visit.
We at length entered the great gate, and were ushered28, by two black lacqueys in livery, into a large hall, which, for Africa, was tolerably furnished. The Danish Governor, who was dressed in a blue embroidered29 coat, soon made his appearance. He was a portly person, with much good humour in his countenance30. At six we sat down to dinner, which was abundant, and, for the first time, I eat some kous-kous, or palm nut soup. I thought it excellent, and the pepper pot was magnificent—so a Frenchman would have said had he been one of the party. My old acquaintance, goat’s flesh, did not make its appearance, but instead we had not badly-flavoured mutton—which, to tell you a secret, was not very tender. We remained until half-past nine o’clock, when we took our departure. The men of war with their cartridge moustachios saluted us by firing their muskets, the wadding of which struck me and my palanquin, for which I did not thank them, as a bit of the wadding burnt my cheek.
On reaching the Castle at Cape Coast I was so wearied that I was almost too lazy to undress. I slept soundly, and ate a late breakfast, took a final leave of the good General (who made me a present of a fine pointer), repaired on board the frigate, whose captain was tormented31 with the blue devils; he requested me to remain until the [pg 251]following day, when, as he had chased them away by a few glasses of his favourite beverage—good stiff grog—and there was no further hope of posting myself into the frigate, I ordered the anchor to be tripped, and we soon made the sparkling, transparent32 wave curl like an old maid’s wig33 before us.
We were three tedious weeks before we reached Sierra Leone, owing to what sailors term “Irish hurricanes”—when the wind is perpendicular35, or, in plain English, no wind at all. On landing, I met the Governor, Mr. Ludlow, who had kindly36 come to welcome me, and begged that I would consider the Fort my home. I made suitable acknowledgments, and accompanied him to his house, which was convenient, tolerably cool, and comfortable. He showed me a clean, cool room, which he was pleased to call my sleeping room. I found him an amiable37 and good person, and was happy and proud of his acquaintance. He told me he intended to make an excursion into the interior, in order to discover the source of a water-fall, and invited me to be one of the party, to which, as I was naturally fond of voyages of discovery, I willingly consented.
The day after, at daybreak, we started, the Governor and myself in palanquins with awnings38 and mosquito nets. We were thirty-five in party, including twenty-four black pioneers, the captain of whom was an intelligent white man. We cut a path through an immense large forest, which boasted some noble-looking cotton, manchineel and iron trees, and a red tree something resembling the bastard39 mahogany. [pg 252]Although we had penetrated40 and ascended41 more than half-way up one of the Mountains of Lions, we discovered nothing living but a variety of beautifully-plumaged birds, which, unused to the intrusion of other bipeds, uttered most discordant42 screams. After a fatiguing43 march, in which we were directed by a pocket compass, we descried44 a small rivulet45. We followed its course for some time, and at length arrived at the base of a stupendous rock from which it issued. We, by calculation, were distant at this time from the town nineteen miles, nearly seven of which we had cut through the forest. We all took refreshment46 and drank His Majesty’s health, first in wine and then in a crystal draught47 from the spring. In returning we kept on the bank of the rivulet until it swelled48 into a small river. The ground then became thickly beset49 with jungle and swampy50.
By five o’clock in the afternoon we arrived at the fall, which, by measurement, was one hundred and seven feet perpendicular, and about forty-two wide without a break—it was a beautiful sight. We dined on a large rock about a quarter of a mile from its base, and even at that distance our clothes were damp from its spray. We discovered a large rock of granite51 from which issued a small stream of water that became tributary52 to that of the fall. We also saw two brown monkeys, one of which was shot. Some of the blacks brought it with them; it was of the small kind, and they told me it was good eating.
[pg 253]
We arrived at the Fort at three o’clock the next morning, when I was suddenly attacked with a severe headache and a violent fit of the bile. As this was nothing new to me, I kept myself quiet, and Nature was my best physician. The slave convoy53 for the West Indies, I found, consisted of three ships and a brig, with about eleven hundred slaves. As the rice season was backward, I was petitioned by the merchants to postpone54 the convoy a fortnight, to which I consented, and made a short cruise off the Los Islands, where I anchored and made an excursion up the Rio Pongo. I passed a small English settlement near its mouth, not fortified55, at which I landed, and was informed that a slave ship belonging to Bristol was in a state of mutiny, and that her surgeon was confined in irons. As she was lying about twenty miles farther up the river, and we had to pull that distance under a burning sun, I thought it no joke. However, as there was no alternative, we made up our minds to bear it, and reached her after a fatiguing four hours’ pull. I found her a rakish-looking vessel56 with her boarding netting triced up. On gaining her deck I inquired for her captain. “He is on shore,” was the answer. “Who are you?” said I to the spokesman. “The chief mate,” returned he. “Turn your hands up and let me see what sort of stuff you are made of. You look very privateerish outside.” Nine men made their appearance, some of whom looked sickly. “These are not all your crew; where are the remainder?” [pg 254]“On shore, sir?” “Where is the surgeon?” “On shore also.” “Show me the ship’s papers.” “The captain has them.” “Now,” said I, “I tell you what, Master Mate, I am going on shore to have some conversation with the African Prince Lawrence, and if your captain and surgeon are not with me at the chieftain’s house in half an hour after I land, I will put an officer and men on board your ship, and if everything I have heard against his conduct is not cleared up to my satisfaction, I will carry her to Jamaica.”
The river at this beautiful place, for the country appeared green and fresh and ornamented58 with a profusion59 of lofty palm and cocoanut trees, was much wider than at its mouth. On landing, a number of the natives had assembled on the shore to view us as sea-monsters or curiosities, as they had never seen two men-of-war’s boats at their settlement before. The prince’s son, who was among them, came up to me. He was dressed in a white linen60 jacket and trousers, with a white English hat. He spoke57 tolerable English. He requested me to go to his father’s house, which was a long, low, whitewashed61 building, with a four-pounder sticking out of a kind of window at one end of it, and before it was a mud battery of four more four-pounders in bad repair. On being introduced to him I found he also spoke English. He asked me the occasion of my visit. I acquainted him, when he, without ceremony, summoned one of the cabaceers, or principal men, and desired him to find the captain [pg 255]of the slave-ship and bring him with him. “I dine at three o’clock,” said he; “I hope you will favour me with your company.” I accepted the invitation. This prince’s appearance was like that of an European, his features were regular and pleasing. He informed me his father was an Arabian chief, but that he was born on the spot where he now resided, and that he had married one of the native king’s daughters. He had two sons; the eldest62 was with him, and the other in England for his education. “I am very partial to the English,” added he, “and should like to go to England, but that is impossible.” Our conversation was interrupted by the entrance of the native magistrate63 with the master of the slave-ship, a sharp-looking, rather slight man. He pulled off his hat. “I understand, sir, that you wish to speak with me.” “I most assuredly do,” answered I. “Have you brought the ship’s papers and the surgeon with you?” “I have the first about me,” saying this he took them from his coat-pocket and gave them to me. “As for the surgeon,” said he, “he has behaved infamously64 and ungratefully. I paid his lodgings65 at Bristol, and if he had not come with me he must have starved or have been put in prison.” “This,” answered I, “is your concern and not mine. I want to know where he is.” “He is in a house about a quarter of a mile off, where I intend keeping him until I am ready for sea, for he has also made a mutiny in the ship and the greater part of the men have gone on shore [pg 256]without leave.” “I have only one order to give,” said I, “and that is that you show my lieutenant66 and two marines, whom I will send with you, where you have confined the surgeon.” He reluctantly consented, and in about an hour the lieutenant and his party returned with an emaciated67, tall young man. He had been confined in irons and fed on bread and water, with sometimes a few vegetables.
As it was too long a story for me to investigate, I left it to be discussed by the proper authorities on the ship’s arrival at Jamaica. I had the men who had left the ship brought before me. They refused to join her again until I told them that if they did not I would impress the whole of them. Five of the best of them immediately stepped forward and begged to enter. As there were fourteen others I accepted them. The others returned to the ship on the captain promising68 to use them well and to overlook all past grievances69. The papers were regular, which I returned, admonishing70 him at the same time to be more considerate in his conduct to his men. A dinner was sent to the boats’ crews by the prince, and I desired the midshipmen to entertain the surgeon, who had expressed a wish to join our ship.
After all this much ado about something, I was ready for my dinner, and in a quarter of an hour it was announced by the blowing of a conch. In passing through a large hall I found myself surrounded by coal-coloured gentlemen of all grades, one of whom wished to look at my dirk. He examined it very [pg 257]closely; it appeared to take his fancy as it was silver gilt71, but as I did not take the hint, and was very hungry, I took it from him and hastened into the dining-room. The dinner was laid out on a large table on trestles; all the dishes were covered with cones72 made of cane34 and stained different colours. The table was also covered with light cane mats; altogether it had a very pretty effect. The eatables consisted of fowls73 stewed74 to death, ducks and buffalo75, and an abundance of rice, which was served up with every dish. My favourite dish, pepper-pot, was much in request, and I could, by a sly peep, see some of the Massa Blackies use their fingers instead of their spoons. Roasted plantain was eaten instead of bread; palm-wine and grog were the principal beverages76, although the prince, the lieutenant and myself drank two bottles of madeira which I had brought in the boat. The princess was amiability77 itself; she was very black, very fat and very good-natured. After dinner we walked round the mansion78. In one of the yards the young prince showed us a black ostrich79, which was considered a rarity. It stood with its neck erect80, and was about eleven feet high to the crown of its head. Its eyes were fierce and resembled rubies81.
At six o’clock I took my leave of the chieftain and his wife. On entering the boat, I found a milch cow and calf82, two dozen ducks, and a dozen fowls, besides bows and quivers filled with arrows, a variety of fruits, and some [pg 258]tiger skins. He had also, at parting, presented me with a gold ring weighing four ounces. I was overpowered with his disinterested83 kindness, and sent him some rum and gunpowder84. Before I left the place I obtained from the master of the slave-ship an order, payable85 at Jamaica, for the surgeon’s salary and wages of the seamen who had entered. We got on board the same evening. The next morning I visited the largest of the Los or Loes Islands, which, I presume, in days of yore had been created by a volcanic86 eruption87. I struck off some of the rock which contained iron, and had a ringing sound, and on rubbing it together it smelt88 of sulphur. There were a few small houses on the island inhabited by fishermen, who appeared as poor as Job’s stable-boy.
点击收听单词发音
1 consul | |
n.领事;执政官 | |
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2 cape | |
n.海角,岬;披肩,短披风 | |
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3 disturbance | |
n.动乱,骚动;打扰,干扰;(身心)失调 | |
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4 transpired | |
(事实,秘密等)被人知道( transpire的过去式和过去分词 ); 泄露; 显露; 发生 | |
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5 eastward | |
adv.向东;adj.向东的;n.东方,东部 | |
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6 cove | |
n.小海湾,小峡谷 | |
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7 procured | |
v.(努力)取得, (设法)获得( procure的过去式和过去分词 );拉皮条 | |
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8 delirium | |
n. 神智昏迷,说胡话;极度兴奋 | |
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9 hue | |
n.色度;色调;样子 | |
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10 supplicating | |
v.祈求,哀求,恳求( supplicate的现在分词 ) | |
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11 smeared | |
弄脏; 玷污; 涂抹; 擦上 | |
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12 inquiry | |
n.打听,询问,调查,查问 | |
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13 frigate | |
n.护航舰,大型驱逐舰 | |
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14 marine | |
adj.海的;海生的;航海的;海事的;n.水兵 | |
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15 seamen | |
n.海员 | |
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16 palaver | |
adj.壮丽堂皇的;n.废话,空话 | |
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17 savages | |
未开化的人,野蛮人( savage的名词复数 ) | |
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18 savage | |
adj.野蛮的;凶恶的,残暴的;n.未开化的人 | |
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19 exterminate | |
v.扑灭,消灭,根绝 | |
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20 defiance | |
n.挑战,挑衅,蔑视,违抗 | |
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21 hospitable | |
adj.好客的;宽容的;有利的,适宜的 | |
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23 saluted | |
v.欢迎,致敬( salute的过去式和过去分词 );赞扬,赞颂 | |
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24 subsided | |
v.(土地)下陷(因在地下采矿)( subside的过去式和过去分词 );减弱;下降至较低或正常水平;一下子坐在椅子等上 | |
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25 musket | |
n.滑膛枪 | |
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26 cartridge | |
n.弹壳,弹药筒;(装磁带等的)盒子 | |
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27 muskets | |
n.火枪,(尤指)滑膛枪( musket的名词复数 ) | |
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28 ushered | |
v.引,领,陪同( usher的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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29 embroidered | |
adj.绣花的 | |
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30 countenance | |
n.脸色,面容;面部表情;vt.支持,赞同 | |
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31 tormented | |
饱受折磨的 | |
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32 transparent | |
adj.明显的,无疑的;透明的 | |
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33 wig | |
n.假发 | |
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34 cane | |
n.手杖,细长的茎,藤条;v.以杖击,以藤编制的 | |
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35 perpendicular | |
adj.垂直的,直立的;n.垂直线,垂直的位置 | |
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36 kindly | |
adj.和蔼的,温和的,爽快的;adv.温和地,亲切地 | |
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37 amiable | |
adj.和蔼可亲的,友善的,亲切的 | |
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38 awnings | |
篷帐布 | |
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39 bastard | |
n.坏蛋,混蛋;私生子 | |
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40 penetrated | |
adj. 击穿的,鞭辟入里的 动词penetrate的过去式和过去分词形式 | |
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41 ascended | |
v.上升,攀登( ascend的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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42 discordant | |
adj.不调和的 | |
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43 fatiguing | |
a.使人劳累的 | |
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44 descried | |
adj.被注意到的,被发现的,被看到的 | |
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45 rivulet | |
n.小溪,小河 | |
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46 refreshment | |
n.恢复,精神爽快,提神之事物;(复数)refreshments:点心,茶点 | |
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47 draught | |
n.拉,牵引,拖;一网(饮,吸,阵);顿服药量,通风;v.起草,设计 | |
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48 swelled | |
增强( swell的过去式和过去分词 ); 肿胀; (使)凸出; 充满(激情) | |
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49 beset | |
v.镶嵌;困扰,包围 | |
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50 swampy | |
adj.沼泽的,湿地的 | |
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51 granite | |
adj.花岗岩,花岗石 | |
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52 tributary | |
n.支流;纳贡国;adj.附庸的;辅助的;支流的 | |
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53 convoy | |
vt.护送,护卫,护航;n.护送;护送队 | |
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54 postpone | |
v.延期,推迟 | |
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55 fortified | |
adj. 加强的 | |
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56 vessel | |
n.船舶;容器,器皿;管,导管,血管 | |
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57 spoke | |
n.(车轮的)辐条;轮辐;破坏某人的计划;阻挠某人的行动 v.讲,谈(speak的过去式);说;演说;从某种观点来说 | |
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58 ornamented | |
adj.花式字体的v.装饰,点缀,美化( ornament的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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59 profusion | |
n.挥霍;丰富 | |
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60 linen | |
n.亚麻布,亚麻线,亚麻制品;adj.亚麻布制的,亚麻的 | |
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61 whitewashed | |
粉饰,美化,掩饰( whitewash的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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62 eldest | |
adj.最年长的,最年老的 | |
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63 magistrate | |
n.地方行政官,地方法官,治安官 | |
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64 infamously | |
不名誉地 | |
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65 lodgings | |
n. 出租的房舍, 寄宿舍 | |
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66 lieutenant | |
n.陆军中尉,海军上尉;代理官员,副职官员 | |
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67 emaciated | |
adj.衰弱的,消瘦的 | |
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68 promising | |
adj.有希望的,有前途的 | |
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69 grievances | |
n.委屈( grievance的名词复数 );苦衷;不满;牢骚 | |
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70 admonishing | |
v.劝告( admonish的现在分词 );训诫;(温和地)责备;轻责 | |
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71 gilt | |
adj.镀金的;n.金边证券 | |
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72 cones | |
n.(人眼)圆锥细胞;圆锥体( cone的名词复数 );球果;圆锥形东西;(盛冰淇淋的)锥形蛋卷筒 | |
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73 fowls | |
鸟( fowl的名词复数 ); 禽肉; 既不是这; 非驴非马 | |
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74 stewed | |
adj.焦虑不安的,烂醉的v.炖( stew的过去式和过去分词 );煨;思考;担忧 | |
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75 buffalo | |
n.(北美)野牛;(亚洲)水牛 | |
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76 beverages | |
n.饮料( beverage的名词复数 ) | |
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77 amiability | |
n.和蔼可亲的,亲切的,友善的 | |
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78 mansion | |
n.大厦,大楼;宅第 | |
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79 ostrich | |
n.鸵鸟 | |
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80 erect | |
n./v.树立,建立,使竖立;adj.直立的,垂直的 | |
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81 rubies | |
红宝石( ruby的名词复数 ); 红宝石色,深红色 | |
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82 calf | |
n.小牛,犊,幼仔,小牛皮 | |
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83 disinterested | |
adj.不关心的,不感兴趣的 | |
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84 gunpowder | |
n.火药 | |
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85 payable | |
adj.可付的,应付的,有利益的 | |
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86 volcanic | |
adj.火山的;象火山的;由火山引起的 | |
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87 eruption | |
n.火山爆发;(战争等)爆发;(疾病等)发作 | |
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88 smelt | |
v.熔解,熔炼;n.银白鱼,胡瓜鱼 | |
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