On the following morning we commenced our retirement2, followed by a large body of Tibetans, armed with matchlocks and spears. Most of them were very dirty-looking little fellows, with long black locks, strongly reminding one of some of Punch's "Prehistoric3 Peeps." Their guns, which we examined, consisted of a long smooth-bore barrel, roughly fastened on to a stock, with a wooden prong on which to rest the gun when firing.
At the corner of this nullah, where it joined the main Rundore valley, was a small nomad4 encampment called Kerinagar. These people lived in some very dirty and dilapidated old tents, and possessed5 a small amount of grain and a few sheep, but the prices they demanded for them were high. Close by was a hill called Chotenchenbo, conspicuous6 amongst a chain of others. The hill is probably volcanic7, as these nomads8 informed us that every month much noise was emitted from the summit, which has so worked upon their imaginations that they hold it in the deepest veneration9, and on the 15th day of each month numbers of people from the surrounding district come to worship and propitiate10 the spirit of the mountain.
We found it heartrending work having to retrace11 our steps to the Napu La again, and in order to waste as little time as possible, and reach new ground, we made long 75 marches, testing our animals to the utmost. Certainly there is a shorter road to Lanak La crossing over the Serai La and cutting off a corner. But here again we were foiled, for the men we sent on ahead to discover the possibility of going that way reported the pass to be deep in snow and absolutely impassable for ponies and mules13. As we marched along this valley we had more leisure for shikar, as our surveying, etc., had already been completed. Malcolm knocked over an antelope14, and being alone at the time, hallaled the animal himself; but our followers15, being filled with pride and mutton, declared that nothing on earth would induce them to eat the meat, for it had not been hallaled by one after their own religion. Little did they dream at the time how, before very long, they would have to change their minds and be a little less particular. Our four nomad guides thoroughly16 enjoyed their frugal17 feast, as they sat round a fire of droppings, boiling what meat we gave them in a small pot, while the bones themselves, after having scraped off every particle of meat and skin from them, they broke between two stones, and ate the marrow18 raw, just as it was, without any boiling or stewing19.
This was the last occasion on which we saw anything of our big dog Tundu. He wasn't going over that Napu La again, and having had a royal repast over portions of the slain20 antelope, he perhaps imagined that if he remained where he was there would be an equally big meal every evening. Nearly a year after this desertion of Tundu we learnt, when we were back in India again, that this dog had turned up one day at the Residency in Leh, where Capt. Trench21 was living, in somewhat reduced condition. He must have found his way back of his own accord over three hundred miles. Our little fox terrier bitch Ruby22 had no hesitation23 in re-crossing the Napu La, for nothing on earth would have induced her to remain with the nomads, amongst whom she had made her presence most obnoxious24. 76
We made a long, toilsome march over the pass again, down to the entrance of the gorge25, close by Lake Treb. There we found two small pools of fresh water close to our camp, but no grass whatever, so there was nothing left for us but to lessen26 our loads by doling27 out a pound of grain all round and three bags of bhoussa.
During the recrossing of this pass, there were a few of the animals who were unable to keep pace with the majority, necessitating28 one of the men being left behind to bring them on. This was the first experience of many such delays we were about to meet with during the next few months.
In this gorge we picked up some curiously-pointed stones, relics29, perhaps, of a bygone age.
Owing to the great care we took of our animals when recrossing the Napu La, they were better off as regards sore backs and galls30 than we could have anticipated. Their chief ailment31 showed itself in the shoulder, at the point where the front ends of the saddle terminated. The shoulders used to swell32 from the irritation33 caused, and matter would form, yet there appeared to be but very little pain attached to it, and after the swelling34 had broken, and the place had healed, the animal never suffered again from the same cause. When possible, we used to change the palan with the wooden saddle of another animal, and in some cases averted35 the evil altogether. There is no doubt, with properly padded palans so as to prevent the ends from pressing against the shoulders, or if the ends themselves were bevelled off, there would be none of these sore shoulders at all. Our sore backs up to the present time were practically nil36.
As we marched northwards along the eastern shore of our old friend Lake Treb, shut in on one hand by the mountains, and on the other by the water, the sun's morning rays beat down with surprising warmth at this height of just under 16,000 feet, and finding no fresh water 77 running into the lake we were tempted37 to test the water of Treb itself. It turned out to be far less saltish than that on the other side of the lake, and on giving our ponies and mules free access to the water's edge they drank the precious liquid eagerly. The four guides informed us that the nomads frequently bring their ponies to the lake to drink the water for its medicinal purposes. It was more than ever a wonder to us to find the water very nearly fresh, for along the banks there lay a white crust of saline particles resembling snow, and when the wind blew, a cloud of this fine white powder was raised, not at all unlike sea spray. In some places close to the edge was a layer of ice.
At nightfall we halted by the northern edge of this lake by a fresh water spring. Here we found numerous Brahminis and a few geese, and a fair amount of antelope dwelt in the hills close by.
That evening the wind blew with sufficient force to create considerable waves in the lake. The water itself was of dark Prussian blue, its colour being intensified38 by the background of snow mountains and the last rays of the setting sun. This grand sight, together with the clouds of fine salt, reminded one vividly39 of the sea itself. Our ponies and mules were let loose all the night long, but as no other grass could be seen, excepting what was close to the spring, they had no occasion to stray; besides, they had really not recovered from the effects of the useless double crossing of the Napu La.
We left the lake behind us blessed with another brilliant morning, the sun again becoming intensely hot about 8 or 9 o'clock. At this time, we used to find this the hottest hour of the day, before the wind had come; then, with the rising wind, clouds were very often blown over too, making the middle of the day sometimes quite chilly40. After sunset again the wind would drop, and every star would shine out clearly and brightly. 78
This same day, the 29th May, we reached the foot of the eastern side of the pass, called Lanak La, the very same pass that Bower41 had crossed some five years ago, when, first of explorers in this direction, he made his famous journey across Tibet, passing a few miles north of Lhassa. We found fairly good grass growing here, the best, in fact, we had come across since leaving Niagzu. We decided42, therefore, to stop a day and give our transport a chance to recover their strength, especially as on that very evening two ponies and one mule12 had failed to reach camp. Our casualties were already beginning in earnest.
It was now a full month since the day when our caravan43, under Shahzad Mir, had started from Leh for the Pangong Lake. They had only traversed 397 miles and were already beginning to give way, yet we had only just reached the borderland of Tibet, for Lanak La separates Ladakh from Tibet, and our journey across this country only commenced from here. Our store of grain and bhoussa was now reduced to thirteen maunds of grain and twenty maunds of bhoussa, while nearly a month's rations44 of the men had been consumed. That evening there were twenty-four degrees of frost, and little Ruby, who during her life had only felt the severity of an Indian winter, begged for a warm seat, and was allowed one on my knees beneath a thick fur-lined coat, while we made our evening repast. Her appreciation45 of this comfortable bed she signified by giving birth to five pups. Three of these little beggars we soon put out of their misery46, and after the first day Ruby would have nothing to do with the remaining couple. They were placed in a box well protected from any wind or cold, placed between some bags of bhoussa on the back of a quiet mule. Ruby, however, would only condescend47 to cross Tibet in this lordly fashion for one day. Her nose was outside the box all throughout the march, with no consideration for her two little pups. On the second march she jumped 79 out altogether, for she far more enjoyed trotting48 along by our sides and putting her nose into every little hole with the chance of finding shikar.
On the morning after our arrival at the foot of Lanak La, we woke up with the astounding49 news that our four nomad guides had deserted50, with what object it was difficult to imagine. We had intended before parting with them to have given them some slight remuneration, for they had been willing helpers, and had proved themselves useful to us in many ways.
On leaving this place, we wanted, if possible, to strike off a route which is called the Polu road, running in a northerly direction into Turkistan, and after following this road for a few days to strike due east again.
Our men, however, seemed more in favour of crossing the Lanak La into Ladakh, and finding a way from thence into Turkistan, and thence across to China. An idea of this kind we would not entertain for a moment, inasmuch as we should have at once given up the object of our expedition. They enumerated51 the amount of supplies that had already been consumed, and were anxious to travel as far as Khotan, and lay in a fresh store before making for China. We explained to them the distance we were from Khotan, and the idiocy52 of adopting such a measure, and reassured53 them that as long as we had guns and ammunition54 there was no need to fear of ever running short of food, and even if we did that we could easily strike north again at any moment, and reach Turkistan in a very short time. Fortunately, that same day, when Malcolm was away spying out the country, he shot a yak55, and as one of the muleteers was at hand to hallal the beast, he and his comrades were enabled to feast on all the tit-bits they fancied to their heart's content, helping56 considerably57 to put them in a better frame of mind.
At daybreak, the man who remained behind with the 80 mule and two ponies, came into camp with the former, declaring that the ponies were too weak to go any further. Not wishing to lose any animals so early in our trip, we sent back other men with grain, but they too returned, corroborating58 what had already been told us by the first man. As we could not leave them to die slowly in that cold, bleak59 land, a poor return for the good service they had done for us, we sent Shahzad Mir on a stout60 pony61 with a carbine to go and shoot them. His journey was, however, unnecessary, for he found that both the ponies had already died.
Whenever a mule or pony lagged behind it was our custom to leave a man or two men with them, as well as clothing and food for both; but in nine cases out of ten this arrangement was a waste of labour, for if an animal is incapable62 of carrying a load any further, the most satisfactory and economical way is to shoot the poor brute63, unless there is at one's disposal time to halt for three or four days by some good grass, giving it a chance of recovering some of its lost strength. Without being able to do this, an animal will be driven along for several days carrying no load, and at the same time, it must be remembered, he is being fed up with more than his full share of grain, which the other animals are carrying, in the hope that he will recover sufficiently64 to earn his keep. When once they have given in, and there is no chance of a halt whereby to recoup, it is false economy to drive them along any further. Yet we did this over and over again, to our own detriment65, for one forms a great attachment66 for such patient and long-suffering animals as our mules and ponies proved themselves to be.
The district of Lanak La is a good shooting-ground for yak and antelope, and it would well repay a sportsman shooting in Ladakh to quietly pop over the frontier and enjoy his sport in secrecy67.
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1
ponies
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| 矮种马，小型马( pony的名词复数 )； ￡25 25 英镑 | |
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retirement
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| n.退休，退职 | |
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prehistoric
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| adj.（有记载的）历史以前的，史前的，古老的 | |
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nomad
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| n.游牧部落的人，流浪者，游牧民 | |
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possessed
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| adj.疯狂的；拥有的，占有的 | |
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conspicuous
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| adj.明眼的，惹人注目的；炫耀的，摆阔气的 | |
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volcanic
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| adj.火山的；象火山的；由火山引起的 | |
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nomads
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| n.游牧部落的一员( nomad的名词复数 )；流浪者；游牧生活；流浪生活 | |
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veneration
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| n.尊敬，崇拜 | |
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propitiate
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| v.慰解，劝解 | |
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retrace
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| v.折回；追溯，探源 | |
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mule
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| n.骡子，杂种，执拗的人 | |
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mules
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| 骡( mule的名词复数 )； 拖鞋； 顽固的人； 越境运毒者 | |
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antelope
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| n.羚羊；羚羊皮 | |
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followers
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| 追随者( follower的名词复数 )； 用户； 契据的附面； 从动件 | |
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16
thoroughly
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| adv.完全地，彻底地，十足地 | |
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frugal
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| adj.节俭的，节约的，少量的，微量的 | |
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marrow
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| n.骨髓；精华；活力 | |
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stewing
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| 炖 | |
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20
slain
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| 杀死，宰杀，杀戮( slay的过去分词 )； (slay的过去分词) | |
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trench
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| n./v.(挖)沟，(挖)战壕 | |
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ruby
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| n.红宝石，红宝石色 | |
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hesitation
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| n.犹豫，踌躇 | |
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obnoxious
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| adj.极恼人的，讨人厌的，可憎的 | |
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gorge
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| n.咽喉，胃，暴食，山峡；v.塞饱，狼吞虎咽地吃 | |
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lessen
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| vt.减少，减轻；缩小 | |
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doling
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| 救济物( dole的现在分词 )； 失业救济金 | |
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28
necessitating
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| 使…成为必要，需要( necessitate的现在分词 ) | |
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relics
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| [pl.］n.遗物，遗迹，遗产；遗体，尸骸 | |
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30
galls
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| v.使…擦痛( gall的第三人称单数 )；擦伤；烦扰；侮辱 | |
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ailment
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| n.疾病，小病 | |
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swell
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| vi.膨胀，肿胀；增长，增强 | |
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irritation
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| n.激怒，恼怒，生气 | |
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swelling
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| n.肿胀 | |
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35
averted
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| 防止，避免( avert的过去式和过去分词 )； 转移 | |
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nil
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| n.无，全无，零 | |
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tempted
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| v.怂恿（某人）干不正当的事；冒…的险（tempt的过去分词） | |
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38
intensified
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| v.（使）增强， （使）加剧( intensify的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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vividly
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| adv.清楚地，鲜明地，生动地 | |
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chilly
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| adj.凉快的，寒冷的 | |
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41
bower
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| n.凉亭，树荫下凉快之处；闺房；v.荫蔽 | |
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42
decided
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| adj.决定了的，坚决的；明显的，明确的 | |
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caravan
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| n.大蓬车；活动房屋 | |
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44
rations
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| 定量( ration的名词复数 )； 配给量； 正常量； 合理的量 | |
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45
appreciation
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| n.评价；欣赏；感谢；领会，理解；价格上涨 | |
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46
misery
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| n.痛苦，苦恼，苦难；悲惨的境遇，贫苦 | |
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47
condescend
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| v.俯就，屈尊；堕落，丢丑 | |
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48
trotting
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| 小跑，急走( trot的现在分词 )； 匆匆忙忙地走 | |
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49
astounding
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| adj.使人震惊的vt.使震惊，使大吃一惊astound的现在分词) | |
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50
deserted
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| adj.荒芜的，荒废的，无人的，被遗弃的 | |
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51
enumerated
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| v.列举，枚举，数( enumerate的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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52
idiocy
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| n.愚蠢 | |
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53
reassured
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| adj.使消除疑虑的；使放心的v.再保证，恢复信心( reassure的过去式和过去分词) | |
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54
ammunition
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| n.军火，弹药 | |
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55
yak
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| n.牦牛 | |
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56
helping
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| n.食物的一份&adj.帮助人的，辅助的 | |
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considerably
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| adv.极大地；相当大地；在很大程度上 | |
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corroborating
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| v.证实，支持（某种说法、信仰、理论等）( corroborate的现在分词 ) | |
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59
bleak
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| adj.(天气)阴冷的；凄凉的；暗淡的 | |
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pony
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| adj.小型的；n.小马 | |
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incapable
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| adj.无能力的，不能做某事的 | |
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brute
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| n.野兽，兽性 | |
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sufficiently
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| adv.足够地，充分地 | |
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detriment
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| n.损害；损害物，造成损害的根源 | |
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attachment
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| n.附属物，附件；依恋；依附 | |
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secrecy
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| n.秘密，保密，隐蔽 | |
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