After a frosty night, a still morning with a cloudless sky favoured us as we started forth5 to cross the stream that barred our way. It was no easy undertaking6, for the sand was deep and treacherous7, and the stream was filled with great lumps of floating ice. Some time was spent in these aquatic8 operations, for the mules9 sank deep into the water and had to be unloaded. Two fine gulls10 flew overhead, affording an easy shot for our guns and food for the party.
We made a double march to-day, and in the afternoon pursued our course along the sandy bed of the river, congratulating ourselves upon the firm level going. Presently, the river made a bend, so that if we wanted to stick to the bed, it became necessary to recross it. On sounding the bottom for this purpose we found it far too treacherous to dream of doing so. On first inspection11 of the banks of the river it seemed as though we should have to retrace12 our steps, for they looked too steep for climbing up. Still, we found that, owing to the soft nature of the sand, we were able to reach the top by marching in a slanting13 direction. By taking our time we at length reached the grassy14 plains above, and decided15 for the future to stick to them, instead of the uncertain bed of the river.
On the 20th August we found we were again running 173 out of meat, and decided whenever we saw anything to shoot that one of us should go after it, and if successful, that the caravan16 should at once halt. The country was favourable17 for game, so we had but little doubt that we should soon supply our wants. Such proved to be the case, for Malcolm shot a kyang, and we were all soon making a square meal.
We were ready for a second march in the afternoon, but were caught in a violent storm. We could see no distance ahead of us. We could not have halted and pitched our camp; we could not have found any shelter. To have halted would have meant frozen limbs. There was nothing to do but to face the storm and make what headway we could. As soon as the weather had abated18, we found our way down to the river, and halted in a nook sheltered by the steep banks.
We all felt convinced that with so much grass and water people must be at hand. It was therefore arranged that Malcolm and Esau should go on ahead with knapsacks, rifles, and a good supply of meat, while I should follow on as quickly as I could with the other three men and the three mules, and still keep up the surveying. All set to work to make a big fire for cooking a large supply of wild donkey flesh to take on their journey. We were all busy with the preparations, and full of hopes for the venture of the morrow. It was arranged that the two adventurers should have a substantial breakfast before starting. Disappointment on this occasion was in store for us. Rain and sleet19 greeted us at dawn, and fell incessantly20 till midday. At that hour we fastened on the two knapsacks, and Malcolm and Esau set forth in search of people. We had arranged that both parties should keep on the north side of the river, so that there could be no danger of our losing one another.
As soon as these two had gone, I and the remainder 174 struck camp, and made preparations to march too. Again rain began to fall even heavier than before, and to add to our troubles, one of the three mules refused to be caught and loaded. Two whole hours did we waste in this soaking rain in our endeavours to catch this most obstinate21, aggravating22, yet clever mule. Then I felt that, as the day was drawing to a close, our wisest plan was to leave the animal victorious23, and own ourselves beaten. I therefore gave orders to unload and pitch the camp again. Every one and everything was wet through, and just as we had fixed24 up our little shelter, Malcolm and Esau returned. The weather was altogether too intolerant, and they, like ourselves, had on this day to give in to the inevitable25. We both agreed that the day was not quite good enough to start on. All we could do was to lie down and endeavour to keep warm, an impossibility, for everything was damp. We reaped some comfort in conjuring26 up thoughts of other snug27 places where all was warmth and sunshine.
After dark, as the rain had nearly ceased, we both went to the men's tent, where they had managed to keep themselves warmer than we had by means of a fire. Certainly the smoke was blinding, but what did that matter? We brought with us our store of brandy, and were soon cheerful under its influence with hot water. We talked to the men of boats and trains, of towns and other countries, so that they might know what sights were awaiting them as soon we had crossed this uninhabited land.
A dull, quiet morning succeeded this stormy weather. The two men again set forth, while I followed with the rest. As we proceeded we discovered we had marched into a cul de sac. On our right hand our road was blocked by the river, now increased to double its size. In front of us stretched a fine fresh-water lake, while on our left an arm of this lake lay, covering a distance of some miles to our rear. There was, under these circumstances, no alternative left. 175 I should either have to cross this arm or march back all the way round it. The first plan I attempted, but to no purpose, for the soil of the lake was too soft. I had, therefore, to begin a retrograde march. I felt lucky that the mules had not been lost altogether in the arm of the lake, as seemed probable at one time, so was less bitter against having to march in a westerly direction. Everywhere on the banks of this lake grew magnificent green grass, and there were signs of many yak. By the edges of this shallow freshwater lay innumerable bones and scores of very fine heads and skeletons of dead yak. It seemed as though they all came to die by the shore of this wonderful lake.
I halted the little party in a garden of vegetables, and having made a meal off the last piece of the wild donkey, set out in search of game, but only bagged a couple of fat hares. About here I noticed large carrion28 birds, generally a sign that people are living in the neighbourhood. Enjoying the lake, too, were a multitude of various white birds, mostly in the middle of it.
It was my wish to start early, but the ground was white with snow at daybreak. In consequence, as we marched along the edge of the lake, the going was of the heaviest. A kyang came trotting29 up to see what we were after. Unfortunately, I only broke his foreleg, for, although I chased him for a very long way, he was still able to evade30 my shots and escape. It was satisfactory to find oneself marching east again. I at length pitched camp close to the water's edge, opposite my camp of the day before, on the other side of the arm.
As soon as the storm which had broken over us had passed off, I climbed the grassy hills that bordered the north shore of the lake, to shoot some food. I crept close up to two yak and wounded one of them, and chased him till the approaching darkness and a violent storm warned me it was time to return. I cared not how it rained, for I 176 was angry and vexed31 with myself at having in one day wounded two harmless animals, and at the same time at having provided no food for the party.
As I made my way homewards along and down the steep grassy slopes, I saw another kyang, and, to fill up the cup of anguish32, I wounded him, even with my last round of ammunition33. Although in this condition he could not travel fast, still he could evade my getting near him. By exerting myself to the utmost, I found I could not only keep him in sight, but could drive him in the direction I wanted. It flashed across my mind, what if I could actually drive the poor kyang as far as the camp, where he would be caught, and oceans of meat would be provided for all, without the trouble of having to fetch it? Then on looking round I knew that darkness would end the chase, for camp was some miles off. As I pursued the kyang, or rather drove him, he entered a steepish nullah, down which a stream flowed, and by the side of this he succumbed34. I rushed up with mixed feelings of joy and pity, and before he could struggle to his feet I had plunged35 my knife into him. At the same moment a deafening36 storm of thunder and lightning broke over me, and darkness followed.
For fear of losing my way I kept to the nullah, which finally emerged by the edge of the lake, along whose banks I trudged37 till, eventually, a dim light from the men's tent showed me where the camp was. Shortly after my arrival the storm passed off and the moon shone out. The men were hungry, and when I narrated38 my adventures, two of them, arming themselves with knives and a sack, set out under the lucid39 instructions I gave them to find the kyang and bring in some of the flesh. I had slept soundly before I was aroused again by the arrival of the hissing40 frying pan into my tent, alive with fresh meat and wild onions.
The morning after these storms was still, as though the elements had exhausted41 themselves. The lake resembled 177 a large sheet of the smoothest glass, partially42 hidden by some light clouds that rested on it, awaiting a breath of wind or the sun's rays before they could be lifted. As I walked along the edge of the water I shot four hares, for in some of the rocky places they were plentiful43 enough.
Although I had hit off a well-defined track frequented by wild animals, still the sandy soil was so laden44 with moisture that the mules sank deep at almost every step. The lake, by reason of its sandy and rocky shore, reminded me more of an inlet sea than anything else. Then grassy slopes with flowers and vegetables eventually rose into high hills, which again were backed by snow-capped peaks. On the south side of the lake a vast plain extended to distant mountains. In whatever direction I chanced to look numbers of wild yak and kyang could be seen grazing, while on the lake itself many water-fowl had found a home. It was a veritable sportsman's or artist's paradise.
As soon as the mules were tired, I halted and went off to shoot a yak. A yak was always preferable to a kyang, for there was more fat to be got from the body. I soon found one above camp and had but little difficulty in shooting him. Having loaded myself with a sack of meat I descended45 again to camp. On arrival, to my surprise, Malcolm and Esau had returned. They had had, in fact, enough of trying to find people in stormy weather, when they had not even been able to light a fire. They, however, gave good reports of the road ahead, which they said would still bring us to abundance of grass teeming46 with yak, at the same time gradually descending47.
This afternoon the three mules unfortunately strayed, and we turned into bed without even knowing where they had gone to. It seemed as though they were tired of carrying heavy loads over sodden48 ground and were bent49 upon a little pleasure of their own. One of the three mules invariably used to give us a deal of trouble in catching50 him 178 for loading up. We found the only way of securing the rascal51 was for two of us to hold a long rope at both ends, allowing it to lie flat on the ground. Then the rest of us would drive the mule towards the rope, which was tightened52 as he reached it. Then those who held the two ends would run round in opposite directions, and thus encircle the animal in the coils. This plan, however, took up so much time and energy that eventually we used to fasten the mule with a long rope to one of the other two, when there was no difficulty in catching him. Of course, when his load was on, he made no attempt at escaping, but rather the reverse, for he would thrust himself forward as much as to say, "Just take off these things, please, and let's be off." He was a wonderfully clever mule, and the most useful one we had. Although small, he used to carry 400 pounds weight of baggage, about the equal of what the other two carried together.
After we had tracked the three wandering mules, who had selected a cosy53 nook, well concealed54 from view, we continued our march along the edge of the lake. Hares, terns, and gulls fell to our guns, and at night-time we camped by a garden of onions and rhubarb. Although this wonderful lake was a charming and delightful55 spot, with a genial56 climate, still we were not sorry on the 26th August to reach the eastern corner of it. Here we found sandy, hillocky ground, with good grass, a favourite haunt of the kyang.
A short distance from the lake we were lucky enough to strike another small stream, that took its rise from some of the neighbouring hills. This stream flowed away in an easterly direction, sometimes sluggish57, at others fairly fast. The water was clear with sandy bottom, a few yards across, and only about a foot deep. In some places we could see numbers of tiny fish, which always made off at our approach. The banks of this little stream were sandy and grassy. All 179 were delighted at having hit upon this sign of civilization. We decided, whatever happened, to follow it. By so doing we knew we must be descending the whole time, and what was more important still, we knew we should never suffer from scarcity58 of water. There would be, as well, always more chance of finding game and grass. We made a double and pleasant march along the stream, which all the time was increasing in volume, but at night-time we were almost beaten down by a heavy thunder-storm.
The next day we left the river, hitting it off again before halting. During the night the mules once more strayed, and prevented us from marching the following morning. Perhaps they had been taking shelter from another storm that had visited us. As the morning was fine we were not in the best frame of mind at having to wait till they were found. Yet we had plenty to do in writing, and mapping, and cleaning all our guns, etc. As we marched off in the afternoon, I was ahead carrying my shot-gun, and suddenly came close upon a goa. Although he was stung with No. 2 shot, he unfortunately managed to escape into the grassy hills. That evening another storm broke over us, just as we were flattering ourselves that we had escaped.
A yak probably carries his heart very low, for most of those which were shot received the bullet just behind the shoulder, yet on opening the dead body, we never found any wound inflicted59 on the heart itself. We were glad that the yak was provided with such internal arrangements, for the heart was the tit-bit of the animal. It was so tender that it could always be eaten directly after death. The kidneys were excellent, the liver was fair, and the tongue as tough and as hard as wood, according to our way of curing it. The probability is that, with proper means, the tongue would have been the most toothsome bit of any. The flesh itself was, as a rule, tough, even after several days' keeping, and was never as tender as the flesh of the 180 kyang, but although close-grained, it was very sound, nutritious60 meat.
The choicest part of the wild donkey was its heart. I fancy the flesh of this animal, when we had stored it up for several days, had more flavour to it, a flavour, too, which was peculiar61 to the animal itself. As for antelope62 and goa, every particle of flesh was juicy and tender, and was always eagerly devoured63 by us all.
A DEAD ANTELOPE.
On the 29th August, when we vowed64 our three mules were worth their weight in gold, for with heavy loads they plodded65 most pluckily66 through the sodden soil, and over nasty, deep, stony67 nullahs, I happened to be walking on higher ground along the side of hills. I had my shot-gun and was after hares, for we were all very fond of them. Quite by chance I came upon the first sign of man's work. 181 I had found a māné. A māné is a heap of stones, consisting of only a few or of thousands, upon which are inscribed sacred sayings. They are common all over the country, wherever Tibetans live. This particular māné consisted of three stones placed edgeways in the ground, and forming three sides of a square. Resting on these was a fourth stone, and they all bore inscriptions68. This was a great find, and I shouted and waved to Malcolm and the men below, two of whom were soon eagerly making their way towards me to learn the news.
All were buoyed69 up with hope of soon meeting people, and when we halted after our first march, all were full of suggestions and expectations, and looked forward to once more getting some flour, mutton, salt, sugar, and butter. In two days at the most we calculated nomads70 would be found.
On one green hill we could see hundreds upon hundreds of yak grazing; there was, I believe, more yak visible than hill. We were particularly partial to these animals, for the reason already given on a previous page. The fat of the yak was so precious to us that we used to boil down every ounce of it, and put it into our old cocoa tins. These cakes of yak's fat were very much appreciated by all. We used to knock off bits of it and eat it as if it were Everton toffy.
We found that to cross the river would have been hazardous71, but we discovered that, after winding72 round to the left, it made a sharp bend to the right again, and at this point rose up precipitous cliffs, forming the basis of high hills. We should, therefore, either have to go round or over these hills. The former would have taken days, and probably have led us out of our depth altogether. In such a situation we had no choice, and commenced to climb them.
In the midst of our difficulty, another of those violent 182 storms fell on us, accompanied with hail, that was blown painfully against man and beast. It was impossible to struggle on against such adversity—a stiff ascent73 and a blinding storm. Even this came to an end, when we slowly breasted the hill again. By nightfall we had come out victorious; we had descended again the other side, and had encamped close to the river. We knew, though, that we were not sufficiently74 strong to overcome many more obstacles such as we had just surmounted75. A wet morning of mist and rain followed this event. When we were able, we marched off again along the banks of the river till we found it was joined by another river coming from the north. This we had to cross with care.
On the other side, some distance off, I saw a yak, and set out ahead to shoot it. I wounded him grievously, and feeling certain that he would not go very far, I waited for the caravan to arrive, so that a man could come after me to bring along some meat. He gave me a longer chase than I had anticipated, but the last bullet told, when he rolled over on his back and kicked violently with all fours in his final struggles. He was a very fine fellow, as the man with me remarked, "Pahar ke muafic" (like a mountain), and his horns were over three feet long.
Laden with meat, I walked on in search of our camp, and was beginning to get a little uneasy at not having seen any signs of which way they had gone, for the sun was setting, when two very faint shots announced their whereabouts. That night we fared sumptuously76, for Malcolm too had slain77 a yak near camp, as he thought it quite possible that the one I had gone after might have escaped altogether, which would have meant no supper.
We were aroused early by moans from Lassoo. We found him lying on his back and groaning78, and argued that he must have been suffering from indigestion. We had been anxious to make an early start, but Lassoo's sickness and 183 a thick, wetting mist quickly dispelled79 this wish. By midday Lassoo was relieved by administering warm flannel80 and Cockle's pills, and the mist, too, by the cheering sun. On the march I shot a goa with my shot-gun. He was very tame, never attempting to run away more than twenty yards from me. Later on two yak came charging down upon our caravan, within fifteen yards. Had they come much nearer we should have had to shoot them in self defence; yet we had no wish to, for we had abundance of meat for the time being, as much as we could manage to carry.
AN ENORMOUS YAK.
Although Colonel Prjevalsky writes that "wild yak shooting is as dangerous as it is exciting, for a wounded beast, especially an old bull, will often attack the pursuer," yet, personally speaking, I never found a yak attempt to 184 charge, wounded or not, and consider there to be absolutely no more danger in shooting a yak than an antelope.
Towards evening, when we were thinking of calling a halt, we found another important river running in from the north, and which we should have to cross. We elected to do so that same evening, for we doubted being able to get the men to face the icy water the first thing in the morning. Both Lassoo and Shukr Ali were sick, so we only had Shahzad Mir and Esau to help us.
In first attempting to find a crossing, the current carried me off my legs, for the water was waist deep at this spot. By making more trials we found we could manage higher up the river, by crossing in a diagonal direction with the current. Here the river was twenty-five yards across, with the water up to the thighs81, and the bed was uneven82 with big boulders83.
These operations took some time, for, fearing accidents, we had to make double journeys. Worst of all was the cold north wind, that blew without pity. It was chilly84 work, to say the least of it, and when all had reached the green turf on the other bank, we all felt we could never have crossed that river again, not even for a sack of sovereigns!
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1
mule
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| n.骡子，杂种，执拗的人 | |
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yak
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| n.牦牛 | |
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inscribed
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| v.写，刻( inscribe的过去式和过去分词 )；内接 | |
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arduous
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| adj.艰苦的，费力的，陡峭的 | |
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forth
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| adv.向前；向外，往外 | |
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undertaking
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| n.保证，许诺，事业 | |
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treacherous
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| adj.不可靠的，有暗藏的危险的；adj.背叛的，背信弃义的 | |
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aquatic
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| adj.水生的，水栖的 | |
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mules
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| 骡( mule的名词复数 )； 拖鞋； 顽固的人； 越境运毒者 | |
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gulls
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| n.鸥( gull的名词复数 )v.欺骗某人( gull的第三人称单数 ) | |
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inspection
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| n.检查，审查，检阅 | |
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retrace
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| v.折回；追溯，探源 | |
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slanting
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| 倾斜的，歪斜的 | |
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grassy
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| adj.盖满草的；长满草的 | |
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decided
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| adj.决定了的，坚决的；明显的，明确的 | |
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caravan
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| n.大蓬车；活动房屋 | |
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favourable
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| adj.赞成的，称赞的，有利的，良好的，顺利的 | |
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abated
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| 减少( abate的过去式和过去分词 )； 减去； 降价； 撤消（诉讼） | |
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sleet
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| n.雨雪；v.下雨雪，下冰雹 | |
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incessantly
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| ad.不停地 | |
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obstinate
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| adj.顽固的，倔强的，不易屈服的，较难治愈的 | |
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aggravating
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| adj.恼人的，讨厌的 | |
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victorious
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| adj.胜利的，得胜的 | |
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fixed
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| adj.固定的，不变的，准备好的；(计算机)固定的 | |
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inevitable
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| adj.不可避免的，必然发生的 | |
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conjuring
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| n.魔术 | |
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snug
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| adj.温暖舒适的，合身的，安全的；v.使整洁干净，舒适地依靠，紧贴；n.（英）酒吧里的私房 | |
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carrion
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| n.腐肉 | |
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trotting
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| 小跑，急走( trot的现在分词 )； 匆匆忙忙地走 | |
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evade
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| vt.逃避，回避；避开，躲避 | |
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vexed
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| adj.争论不休的；（指问题等）棘手的；争论不休的问题；烦恼的v.使烦恼( vex的过去式和过去分词 )；使苦恼；使生气；详细讨论 | |
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anguish
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| n.(尤指心灵上的)极度痛苦，烦恼 | |
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ammunition
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| n.军火，弹药 | |
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succumbed
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| 不再抵抗（诱惑、疾病、攻击等）( succumb的过去式和过去分词 )； 屈从； 被压垮； 死 | |
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plunged
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| v.颠簸( plunge的过去式和过去分词 )；暴跌；骤降；突降 | |
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deafening
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| adj. 振耳欲聋的, 极喧闹的 动词deafen的现在分词形式 | |
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trudged
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| vt.& vi.跋涉，吃力地走（trudge的过去式与过去分词形式） | |
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narrated
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| v.故事( narrate的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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lucid
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| adj.明白易懂的，清晰的，头脑清楚的 | |
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hissing
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| n. 发嘶嘶声, 蔑视 动词hiss的现在分词形式 | |
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exhausted
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| adj.极其疲惫的，精疲力尽的 | |
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partially
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| adv.部分地，从某些方面讲 | |
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plentiful
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| adj.富裕的，丰富的 | |
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laden
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| adj.装满了的；充满了的；负了重担的；苦恼的 | |
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descended
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| a.为...后裔的，出身于...的 | |
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teeming
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| adj.丰富的v.充满( teem的现在分词 )；到处都是；（指水、雨等）暴降；倾注 | |
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descending
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| n. 下行 adj. 下降的 | |
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sodden
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| adj.浑身湿透的；v.使浸透；使呆头呆脑 | |
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bent
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| n.爱好，癖好；adj.弯的；决心的，一心的 | |
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catching
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| adj.易传染的，有魅力的，迷人的，接住 | |
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rascal
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| n.流氓；不诚实的人 | |
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tightened
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| 收紧( tighten的过去式和过去分词 )； （使）变紧； （使）绷紧； 加紧 | |
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cosy
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| adj.温暖而舒适的，安逸的 | |
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concealed
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| a.隐藏的，隐蔽的 | |
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delightful
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| adj.令人高兴的，使人快乐的 | |
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genial
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| adj.亲切的，和蔼的，愉快的，脾气好的 | |
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sluggish
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| adj.懒惰的，迟钝的，无精打采的 | |
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scarcity
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| n.缺乏，不足，萧条 | |
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inflicted
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| 把…强加给，使承受，遭受( inflict的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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nutritious
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| adj.有营养的，营养价值高的 | |
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peculiar
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| adj.古怪的，异常的；特殊的，特有的 | |
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antelope
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| n.羚羊；羚羊皮 | |
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devoured
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| 吞没( devour的过去式和过去分词 )； 耗尽； 津津有味地看； 狼吞虎咽地吃光 | |
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vowed
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| 起誓，发誓（vow的过去式与过去分词形式） | |
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plodded
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| v.沉重缓慢地走（路）( plod的过去式和过去分词 )；努力从事；沉闷地苦干；缓慢进行（尤指艰难枯燥的工作） | |
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pluckily
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| adv.有勇气地，大胆地 | |
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stony
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| adj.石头的，多石头的，冷酷的，无情的 | |
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inscriptions
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| （作者）题词( inscription的名词复数 )； 献词； 碑文； 证劵持有人的登记 | |
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buoyed
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| v.使浮起( buoy的过去式和过去分词 )；支持；为…设浮标；振奋…的精神 | |
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nomads
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| n.游牧部落的一员( nomad的名词复数 )；流浪者；游牧生活；流浪生活 | |
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hazardous
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| adj.(有)危险的，冒险的；碰运气的 | |
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winding
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| n.绕，缠，绕组，线圈 | |
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ascent
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| n.(声望或地位)提高；上升，升高；登高 | |
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sufficiently
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| adv.足够地，充分地 | |
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surmounted
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| 战胜( surmount的过去式和过去分词 )； 克服（困难）； 居于…之上； 在…顶上 | |
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sumptuously
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| 奢侈地，豪华地 | |
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slain
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| 杀死，宰杀，杀戮( slay的过去分词 )； (slay的过去分词) | |
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groaning
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| adj. 呜咽的, 呻吟的 动词groan的现在分词形式 | |
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dispelled
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| v.驱散，赶跑( dispel的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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flannel
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| n.法兰绒；法兰绒衣服 | |
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thighs
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| n.股，大腿( thigh的名词复数 )；食用的鸡（等的）腿 | |
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uneven
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| adj.不平坦的，不规则的，不均匀的 | |
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boulders
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| n.卵石( boulder的名词复数 )；巨砾；（受水或天气侵蚀而成的）巨石；漂砾 | |
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chilly
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| adj.凉快的，寒冷的 | |
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