As soon as the Kushok had reached the summit of the hill above our own camp, we saw that he was pointing with his hand at something or other which was causing this uproar2, for men were now firing off their matchlocks at some distant rocks. Just then Nimbri came to us to borrow our glasses for the Kushok. He came with such an air of superiority that we declined to lend them, which enraged3 the Kushok in no slight degree.
Being bitten with curiosity to find out what they were all gazing and pointing at, we climbed the hill ourselves, and saw, a long way down the valley, on the other bank of the Shugatza, smoke ascending4 to the skies, and apparently5 coming from some camp or other, for close to the place where the smoke rose were a number of animals dotted about, but whether they were yak6, mules7, or ponies8, even with our glasses we could not clearly make out. One thing we all felt certain of was that there was another large encampment, even larger than the Tibetan one, on the banks of the Shuga Gol. Whether it was that belonging to another body of merchants, or, what was considered more likely, a large camp of the Golok tribe, it was impossible to decide at that distance.
Without more ado we made up our minds as to what line 219 of action to take. We gave orders to our men to load up the three mules and the pony9, and, going up to the Kushok, told him we were off to join the new encampment, telling him that if these strangers proved to be another body of merchants, we would, without a doubt, be able to get supplies from them, and that if, on the other hand, they proved to be some of the Golok, why, we had no fear of them, for we were well armed.
Such a turning of the tables brought the Kushok to his proper standard, and made him recognize the fact that Englishmen have more ways of shifting than one. He begged us to remain with his caravan10 and give him our assistance, but finding that our decision was not to be revoked11, for the mules, too, were by this time being loaded, he made up his mind still to benefit as much as he could by selling us the flour, etc.; and we, on our side, deeming that four or five days' certain supply was preferable to risking the chance of finding other merchants who would sell, decided12 to purchase this amount from him. Having settled it, we lost no time in completing the loading and leaving in triumph the Kushok's camp, receiving a hostile salute13 from the fierce dogs at our departure.
Although we had misgivings14 about finding our way to Barong, in the Tsaidam, and blamed the merchants for their secretiveness in this respect, still, we parted with feelings of friendship, for we could not forget the great hospitality and help they had given us in our distress15, in spite of our anything but winning appearance, and, after all is said and done, the hankering after the rupees is the natural bent16 not only of Tibetan merchants, but of almost all other merchants of every civilized17 or uncivilized country.
Thus, on the afternoon of the 16th September, we once more launched forth18 into the wilds, an independent little party. We marched till long after dark that evening, but 220 could see no light to show us where this strange encampment was located.
The first thing the next morning I ascended19 a hill, and, remarkable20 to relate, became convinced that the baggage animals we had seen from the Kushok's camp grazing, were nothing else than immense numbers of wild yak and wild kyang, and, as to the smoke, we accounted for this by the natural phenomenon of mist arising from the river, for we could see no signs of any encampment at all. During the morning we had but little difficulty in finding our way, for the route was marked by previous encampments and old chulas. We unloaded for breakfast by a fresh spring at the foot of some red hills, the home of the chough, whilst many hares dwelt in the stones and grass below.
Soon after starting again we noticed a nullah turning up northwards to our left, marked in a very conspicuous21 way by a natural wall of earth at the mouth, on which had been placed, as well as on the neighbouring hills, several heaps of stones piled one on the other three or four feet high. We knew by our map we should have to leave the Shuga Gol and cross a range of mountains called the Burhan Bota before reaching the Tsaidam, and we thought that this must be the spot, and that it had been thus significantly ornamented22, that no one travelling this route could go past without noticing the way.
We found on nearer approach there were two roads into the nullah, one by a narrow pathway over the wall, and the other, a broader one, by a small stream on the right side of the wall. As we followed the stream a few hundred yards up the mouth of the nullah we came to the source of this water. It was busily bubbling forth from the top of a rock between four and five feet high that stood midway in our path. The rock was stained a black and yellow colour, and the water itself was quite hot, but was tasteless.
Just inside the wall at the entrance, other lower and 221 smaller walls had been built, apparently to afford protection from the winds. Against these were several chulas, and lying everywhere were quantities of bones of animals. The hot spring was doubtless the cause of all these landmarks23, which had not been stuck up as a signboard to show the road to the Tsaidam, as we had taken it to mean, and in consequence of our mistake, we had a long, useless climb right up the nullah, over stony24 mountains, and down another nullah back to our valley again, on the banks of the Shugatza, having made but little progress, and tired our transport to no purpose.
Our men were complaining that they must have a meal of tea and tsampa before starting the morning's march, as they could not walk for five hours without. It appeared that one of them had a watch, and told them they had been marching five hours, whereas they had not been going for three. When I explained to them that they had only marched for this length of time, they were quite themselves again, and the sour looks which had disfigured their faces were soon changed to one of laughter.
We found numbers of yak and kyang along the banks of the river, but they were too knowing to allow of our shooting them. By reason of this, we had been doubting whether the track we were following was that of wild animals or otherwise, until our minds were relieved by Lassoo finding some camel droppings. These assuring signs, added to the discovery of more chulas, and marks of previous encampments, cast all doubts aside, and at length brought us to the mouth of a broad, stony nullah, which ran in the direction of some white, rocky hills, which looked perfectly25 impenetrable.
We began to regret not having exchanged with the merchants all our remaining rupees for more tsampa. It was always a pleasure to see our faithful followers26 enjoy this simple feast. They would eat their fill in silence, or 222 rather partial fill, their eyes disclosing their thoughts, which wandered far back to their homes in Ladakh, where tea and tsampa is their staple27 food.
We had now left the banks of the Shuga Gol, and were about to enter the narrow opening of a nullah, which we rightly conjectured28 would take us over the Shuga range of mountains. At this spot were many camel droppings and other signs, which made it manifest that those who attempted to cross these mountains camped here just before or just after the toilsome journey.
It was a rugged29, rough, cold-looking pass, and, at the various bends, the wind blew with violent, cruel blasts. For nearly four hours we continued to mount up this stony gorge30, till a small patch of grass and the pangs31 of hunger demanded a halt. This was accompanied with much cold and damp, for during most of the morning snow and sleet32 had been falling. As we continued the ascent33, our anxiety increased as to the chances of having to spend the night in so high and cheerless a place. Our fears were doubled by our finding every mile three or four skeletons of dead yak—tame ones, easily recognized by the small size and thinness of their horns. The caravan that had last marched by this route must have made a terrible and disastrous journey. Amongst other signs of their misfortunes we picked up a keg of opium34.
At length joy crowned our fears, for we reached a large pile of stones, denoting that the summit of the pass was here. We continued from this point to descend35 steadily36, till after sunset, and pitched our little tent in an old encamping ground. We knew that such was the case, for, close at hand, stood out alone a small hill, on which were three piles of stones the size of men. It is probable that there is a spring somewhere near this hill, but none of us had inclination37 to go in search, when we could satisfy our wants with the snow that lay around. 223
After a bitterly cold night we descended38 gaily39 over grassy40 plains, for the morning was bright and the sun had polished up the snow peaks that surrounded us on all sides, so that they shone again. Kyang, antelope41, and sand-grouse had selected these pastures, and afforded us sport and provender42 as we marched. The pleasure of the day was somewhat marred43 by our inability to find any water before nightfall. At that hour we came to a very noticeable hill, standing44 at the entrance of a nullah. On the top of this hill was a large heap of stones decorated with many sticks and red rags. We were all glad to see it, for we had learnt by now that this signified a camping ground. There lay a few skeletons of tame yak. A spring of beautifully clear water took its rise here, while lovely grass grew everywhere.
We afterwards learnt that this remarkable spot is named Dapsoga, and the hill Ser, and that from here there are two roads which lead over the Burhan Bota range of mountains into the Tsaidam. One of these roads, called the Burhan Bota Pass, takes a more westerly course, and is longer than the other, which is called the Namoran Dawan (Pass). This latter road, though shorter, is more difficult by reason of the thick brushwood and the river, which has frequently to be crossed. Merchants who go this way complain that they invariably lose some of their baggage animals in the undergrowth. Of course, at the time of our arrival, we knew nothing about any road at all, and quite unconsciously elected to take the Namoran Dawan.
We followed the stream whose source we had found, which flowed rapidly over a stony bottom, so that, although the water was only knee deep, it was difficult for us to keep our footing. The precipitous mountains, that sometimes ran clean down to the water's edge, compelled us, on each occasion, to cross the torrent46. These hills were rugged and bare. At other times the nullah became broad, with a wider bed to the river. At such places there grew grass and thick 224 brushwood, some of it eight feet high. At one of these delightful47 spots we made our midday halt, as other caravans48 had done, judging from the many chulas we found. Further on we found many traces along the path of people, sheep and ponies having journeyed this way.
We found our commissariat was at its lowest ebb49, for although we had seen a hare and three snipe, we had shot nothing, and we reflected that unless we killed something the next day we should have to live on air and water. As we looked down stream it seemed as though it would soon issue out into open plains, where we anticipated finding people.
It was hard to make a start the next morning, for Esau and Lassoo had got silly fancies into their heads that the water was too cold to cross, and until we explained to them the impossibility of this fact we remained at a standstill. The truth of their statement, nevertheless, we inwardly agreed to, and afterwards outwardly felt the force of it. Without any sun, and a strong north-east wind blowing, our constant plunging50 into the torrent, ever increasing in force and volume, deprived our legs of all feeling. Fortunately a solitary51 kyang fell to Malcolm's rifle, and at noon we saw, on the other side of the river, thick brushwood, unmistakably an old camping ground. Once more we stumbled over the stony bottom of the river, and then, collecting a pile of the thickest brushwood, we made a huge fire to dry our clothes by and to cook our wild donkey for breakfast.
As we proceeded after this rest and repast, we came to more jungle, composed principally of wild raspberry and currant bushes, and other red berries, to all of which we did ample justice; even the little dog, Ruby52, picked the berries from the bushes with her mouth, for she must have felt the want of other nourishment53 as much as we ourselves did. 225
Around and about the bushes were more marks of sheep having recently been grazing there. All were jubilant, for even if we did not find people that evening, we had a small supply of meat. Our men at last lost all control as, with shouts of joy, they tore along through the fruit bushes towards a stone building which had appeared in sight.
All thought our goal at last was reached. On drawing closer to this, we found it consisted of a small stone building, about twelve feet square and of the same height. Looking through the rails of the small wooden door, we found the whole space occupied by a large prayer-wheel, which for ever was being turned round by the force of the stream. Over the door, in a ledge54, was a packet of prayers, which I appropriated. The prayers were written on paper and wrapped up in cloth. On looking around for more curiosities, I found prayers and rags were hanging from several of the bushes and trees; on one particular fruit tree was the longest prayer of all, written on white cloth and tied by ropes to it. The temptation to take this religious offering was too great for me, for I untied55 the knots, and pulling down the cloth with a feeling of sacrilege, overpowered by that of curiosity, I hastily rolled the thing up and hid it away, glancing round in case there might be some one looking on unobserved but close at hand. It would have been a bad beginning to strike up a friendship with strangers by being caught in the act of outraging56 their religion. We were not, however, destined57 to meet people just at present. Shortly after our excitement had worn off, we saw slowly moving along with measured pace, on the opposite bank of the river, a fine black bear. This was his last evening walk, for Malcolm soon bowled him over with a well-directed bullet through the head. This episode, and the misty58 rain that now enshrouded us, demanded a halt.
We had to bring the bear's skin and fat over the river, after cutting him up on the other side, yet this unpleasant 226 work and the wet weather made no impression on the good spirits of the men. Our Duffadar was perhaps the most jubilant, for he fully45 expected the next day to swagger through a Mongol village with all the war-paint he could muster59 under the trying times.
As we marched down the gorge we found strings60 of prayers hung from tree to tree, written on pieces of red, blue, and white-coloured cloth. But after about three miles' tramp through the fruit bushes, we crossed over a highish ridge61 and then debouched into an arid62, stony plain, and our river wended away to the south. This was a very bitter disappointment to all, for just at the moment when we had expected to view the homely63 comfort of a nomad's camp, or of a Mongol village, we could see nothing but a stretch of desert country to relieve the eye.
We reproached ourselves for having been so thoughtless about our supply of meat, for we had only with us a small portion of the last donkey slain64, and some of the bear's grease. Our three mules, though thin, were fairly strong, and we determined65 not to dally66 and bemoan67 our fate, but rather to hasten on all the quicker and try and cross this desolate68 country. After about twelve miles we hit off our stream again, and found a spot to halt by a little undergrowth. Everywhere else was bare and arid; even the hills, which gradually died away into the plains we were crossing, were entirely69 devoid70 of vegetation. At our little camp we could see signs of former encampments, and there was a pile of stones on the other side of the river, inviting71 us to cross, with as much as to say, "This is the way, gentlemen."
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1
disastrous
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| adj.灾难性的，造成灾害的；极坏的，很糟的 | |
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uproar
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| n.骚动，喧嚣，鼎沸 | |
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3
enraged
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| 使暴怒( enrage的过去式和过去分词 )； 歜； 激愤 | |
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4
ascending
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| adj.上升的，向上的 | |
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apparently
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| adv.显然地；表面上，似乎 | |
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yak
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| n.牦牛 | |
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mules
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| 骡( mule的名词复数 )； 拖鞋； 顽固的人； 越境运毒者 | |
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8
ponies
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| 矮种马，小型马( pony的名词复数 )； ￡25 25 英镑 | |
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pony
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| adj.小型的；n.小马 | |
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caravan
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| n.大蓬车；活动房屋 | |
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revoked
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| adj.[法]取消的v.撤销，取消，废除( revoke的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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12
decided
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| adj.决定了的，坚决的；明显的，明确的 | |
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13
salute
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| vi.行礼，致意，问候，放礼炮；vt.向…致意，迎接，赞扬；n.招呼，敬礼，礼炮 | |
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14
misgivings
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| n.疑虑，担忧，害怕；疑虑，担心，恐惧( misgiving的名词复数 )；疑惧 | |
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15
distress
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| n.苦恼，痛苦，不舒适；不幸；vt.使悲痛 | |
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16
bent
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| n.爱好，癖好；adj.弯的；决心的，一心的 | |
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17
civilized
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| a.有教养的，文雅的 | |
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forth
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| adv.向前；向外，往外 | |
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ascended
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| v.上升，攀登( ascend的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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20
remarkable
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| adj.显著的，异常的，非凡的，值得注意的 | |
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21
conspicuous
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| adj.明眼的，惹人注目的；炫耀的，摆阔气的 | |
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22
ornamented
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| adj.花式字体的v.装饰，点缀，美化( ornament的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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23
landmarks
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| n.陆标( landmark的名词复数 )；目标；（标志重要阶段的）里程碑 ~ (in sth)；有历史意义的建筑物（或遗址） | |
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24
stony
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| adj.石头的，多石头的，冷酷的，无情的 | |
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perfectly
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| adv.完美地，无可非议地，彻底地 | |
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followers
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| 追随者( follower的名词复数 )； 用户； 契据的附面； 从动件 | |
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27
staple
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| n.主要产物，常用品，主要要素，原料，订书钉，钩环；adj.主要的，重要的；vt.分类 | |
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28
conjectured
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| 推测，猜测，猜想( conjecture的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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29
rugged
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| adj.高低不平的，粗糙的，粗壮的，强健的 | |
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30
gorge
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| n.咽喉，胃，暴食，山峡；v.塞饱，狼吞虎咽地吃 | |
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31
pangs
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| 突然的剧痛( pang的名词复数 )； 悲痛 | |
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sleet
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| n.雨雪；v.下雨雪，下冰雹 | |
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33
ascent
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| n.(声望或地位)提高；上升，升高；登高 | |
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34
opium
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| n.鸦片；adj.鸦片的 | |
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35
descend
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| vt./vi.传下来，下来，下降 | |
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steadily
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| adv.稳定地；不变地；持续地 | |
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37
inclination
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| n.倾斜；点头；弯腰；斜坡；倾度；倾向；爱好 | |
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38
descended
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| a.为...后裔的，出身于...的 | |
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gaily
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| adv.欢乐地，高兴地 | |
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40
grassy
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| adj.盖满草的；长满草的 | |
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antelope
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| n.羚羊；羚羊皮 | |
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42
provender
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| n.刍草；秣料 | |
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43
marred
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| adj. 被损毁, 污损的 | |
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44
standing
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| n.持续，地位；adj.永久的，不动的，直立的，不流动的 | |
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45
fully
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| adv.完全地，全部地，彻底地；充分地 | |
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46
torrent
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| n.激流，洪流；爆发，(话语等的)连发 | |
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47
delightful
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| adj.令人高兴的，使人快乐的 | |
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48
caravans
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| （可供居住的）拖车（通常由机动车拖行）( caravan的名词复数 )； 篷车； （穿过沙漠地带的）旅行队（如商队） | |
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49
ebb
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| vi.衰退，减退；n.处于低潮，处于衰退状态 | |
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50
plunging
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| adj.跳进的，突进的v.颠簸( plunge的现在分词 )；暴跌；骤降；突降 | |
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51
solitary
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| adj.孤独的，独立的，荒凉的；n.隐士 | |
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52
ruby
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| n.红宝石，红宝石色 | |
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53
nourishment
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| n.食物，营养品；营养情况 | |
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54
ledge
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| n.壁架，架状突出物；岩架，岩礁 | |
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55
untied
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| 松开，解开( untie的过去式和过去分词 )； 解除，使自由； 解决 | |
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56
outraging
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| 引起…的义愤，激怒( outrage的现在分词 ) | |
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57
destined
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| adj.命中注定的；(for)以…为目的地的 | |
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58
misty
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| adj.雾蒙蒙的，有雾的 | |
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59
muster
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| v.集合，收集，鼓起，激起；n.集合，检阅，集合人员，点名册 | |
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60
strings
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| n.弦 | |
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61
ridge
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| n.山脊；鼻梁；分水岭 | |
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62
arid
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| adj.干旱的；(土地)贫瘠的 | |
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63
homely
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| adj.家常的，简朴的；不漂亮的 | |
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64
slain
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| 杀死，宰杀，杀戮( slay的过去分词 )； (slay的过去分词) | |
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65
determined
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| adj.坚定的；有决心的 | |
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66
dally
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| v.荒废(时日)，调情 | |
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67
bemoan
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| v.悲叹，哀泣，痛哭；惋惜，不满于 | |
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68
desolate
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| adj.荒凉的，荒芜的；孤独的，凄凉的；v.使荒芜，使孤寂 | |
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69
entirely
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| ad.全部地，完整地；完全地，彻底地 | |
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70
devoid
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| adj.全无的，缺乏的 | |
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71
inviting
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| adj.诱人的，引人注目的 | |
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