In consequence of the bad character of the Besan?on hotels, even French tourists seldom break their journey here; but, on the opening of the new railway line into Switzerland, joining Besan?on, Ornans, and Morteau, new and better hotels are sure to spring up. At present, wherever we go, we never, by any chance, meet the ubiquitous English traveller with his Murray, and my friends here say that, during a several years' residence in Besan?on, they have never even yet seen such an apparition11! Yet Franche-Comté, at present a terra incognita of tourists, abounds13 in all kinds of beauty; the sublime14, the gracious, the grandiose15, and the pastoral, rock, vast panoramas18, mountain and valley, all are here; and all as free from the trace of the English and American tourist as the garden of Eden before Eve's trespass19!
Besides these quieter beauties are some rare natural phenomena20, such as the Glacière de la Grace Dieu, near Baume-les-Dames, and the famous Osselle grottoes, both of which may be reached by railway. We preferred, however, the open carriages the basket and the tea-pot, and accordingly set off for the latter one superb morning in the highest spirits, which nothing occurred to mar. Quitting this splendid environment of Besan?on, we drive for three hours amid the lovely valley of the Doubs, delighted at every bend of the road with some new feature in the landscape; then choosing a sheltered slope, unpacked22 our basket, lunched al fresco23, with the merriest spirits, and the heartiest24 appetite. Never surely did the renowned25 Besan?on patés taste better, never did the wine of its warm hill-sides prove of a pleasanter flavour! The children sported on the turf like little Loves, the air was sweet with the perfume of new-made hay. The birds sang overhead, and beyond our immediate26 pavilion of greenery, lay the curling blue river and smiling green hills. Leaving the children to sleep under the trees, and the horse to feed at a neighbouring mill—there is no kind of wayside inn here, so we have to beg a little hay from the miller27 or a farmer—we follow a little lad, provided with matches and candles to the entrance of the famous grottoes. Outside the sugar-loaf hill, so marvellously channelled and cased with stalactite formation, has nothing remarkable—it is a mere28 green height, and nothing more. Inside, however, as strange a spectacle meets our eyes as it is possible to conceive. To see these caves in detail, you must spend an hour or two in the bowels29 of the earth, but we were contented30 with half that time, for this underground promenade31 is a very chilly32 one, as in some places we were ankle deep in water. Each provided with a candle, we now follow our youthful guide, who was accompanied by a dog, as familiar as himself with the windings34 of these sombre subterranean35 palaces, for palaces they might be called. Sometimes the stalactite roofs are lofty, sometimes we have to bend our heads in order to pass from one vaulted36 chamber37 to another; here we have a superb column supporting an arch; here a pillar in course of formation, everywhere the strangest, most fantastic architecture, an architecture moreover that is the work of ages; one petrifying38 drop after another doing its apportioned39 work, column, arch, and roof being formed by a process so slow that the life-time of a human being hardly counts in the calculation. There is something sublime in the contemplation of this steady persistence40 of Nature, this undeviating march to a goal; and as we gaze upon the embryo41 stages of the petrifaction42, stalagmite patiently lifting itself upward, stalactite as patiently bending down to the remote but inevitable43 union, we might almost fancy them sentient44 agents in the marvellous transformation45. The stamens of a passion-flower do not more eagerly, as it seems, coil upwards46 to embrace the pistil; the beautiful stamina47 flower of the Vallisneria spiralis does not more determinately seek its mate than these crystal pendants covet48 union with their fellows below. Their perpetual bridals are accomplished49 after countless50 cycles of time, whilst meantime in the sunlit world outside, the faces of whole continents are being changed, and entire civilizations are formed and overthrown51.
The feeble light projected by our four candles in these gloomy yet majestic52 chambers53 was not so feeble as to obscure the insignificant54 names of hundreds of individuals scrawled55 here and there. The great German philosopher Schopenhauer is at pains philosophically56 to explain the foolish propensity57 of travellers to perpetuate58 their names, or as it so seems to them. The Pyramids or Kentucky Caves do not impress their minds at all, but to see their own illustrious names John Brown and Tom Smith cut upon them, does seem a very interesting and important fact. The bones of the Cave bear and other gigantic animals have been formed here; but the principal tenants59 of these antique vaults60 are now the bats, forming huge black clusters in the roof. There is something eerie61 in their cries, but they are more alarmed than alarming; the lights disturbing them not a little.
Pleasant after even this short adventure into the regions of the nether-world, was the return to sunshine, green trees, the children, and the tea-pot! After calling it into requisition, we set off homewards, reaching Besan?on just as the moon made its appearance, a large silver disc above the purple hills; and the next day, good luck still following us, we had a drive and pic-nic in the opposite direction, this time with a less ambitious programme. In fact, we were merely accepting a neighbour's invitation to a friendly dinner out of doors, a few miles from Besan?on. This pic-nic is a fair sample of Franche-Comté hospitality; not only friends were invited but their guests, babies, servants, and "all that was in their house," the various parties being collected by the host in a waggonette. It was Sunday, and though I am here still in a strictly62 Protestant atmosphere, host and guests being Protestants, it was pleasant to find none of the Puritanism characterizing some sections of the Reformed Church in France. The Protestant pastor16, indeed, to whose eloquent63 discourse64 I had listened that morning, was of the party; and it is quite a matter of course here to spend Sunday afternoons thus sociably65 and healthfully. The meeting-place was a rustic66 spot much resorted to by Bisontins on holidays, and easily reached from the little station of Roche on the railway line to Belfort. A winding33 path through a wood leads to the so-called Acier Springs, which, since the Roman epoch67, have continued to supply Besan?on with the delicious water we find here in such abundance. We have just such bits of wood, waterfalls, and mountains in North Wales, but seldom in September such unbroken sunshine to make a pic-nic exactly what it should be. It was warm enough for July, and young and old could disport68 themselves on the turf in perfect security.
As the afternoon wore on, numerous pleasure-parties, mostly belonging to the working-classes, found their way to the same pleasant spot, all amply provided with baskets of wine and provisions. Some went further in search of a little glade69 they could have to themselves, others took possession of nooks and corners in the open space where we tad just before dined so merrily. It was amusing to see how little attention these good people paid to us, or any other outsiders. Two or three of the women, fearing to tear their Sunday gowns in the wood, coolly took them off, hung them on the trees near, and as coolly re-made their toilette when their woodland rambles70 were over.
The train to R?che certainly brought in a goodly contingent71 of pic-nic parties that afternoon and when about four o'clock we prepared to return home, the place was beginning to wear a very animated72 appearance. The moon had risen ere we reached our destination, and, seen in the tender summer twilight73, the valley of the Doubs looked even more beautiful than in the glowing sunshine of mid-day. There is no monotony in these vine-clad hills, rugged74 mountain sides wooded from peak to base, close shut valleys, and bright blue winding rivers; whether seen under the dropping shadows of a shifting sky, or under the glow of sunset, their quiet beauties delight the eye of the mere spectator and commend themselves to the artist. Perhaps no Department in France is richer in rivers than Le Doubs, every landscape has its bit of river, rivulet75 or canal.
To get an idea of the commanding position of Besan?on, we must climb one of these lofty green heights, that of Notre Dame21 des Buis, for instance, an hour's drive from the town. Having reached a sharp eminence76, crowned by a chapel77 and covered with box-wood, we obtain a splendid view of the natural and artificial defences which make Besan?on, strategically speaking, one of the strongest positions in France. Caesar, in his 'Commentaries' speaks almost with enthusiasm of the admirable [Footnote: "Oppidum maximum Sequauorum, natura loci, sic muniebatur ut magnam ad ducendum bellum daret facultatem: propterea quod flumen Dubis ut circino circumductum, pene totum oppidum cingit; reliquum spatium [quod non est amplius pedum DC. quà flumen intermittit,] mons continet magna altitudine, ita ut radices ejus montis ex utra parte ripae fluminis continguat." De Bello Gallico, Lib. I., chap, xxxviii. A marvellous bit of accurate description this, and to be commended to writers of guide-books.] position of Vesontio, the capital of the Sequani, and, when he became master of it, the defeat of Vercingetorix was a mere matter of time. But what would the great general have said, could be have seen his citadel78 thus dwarfed79 into insignificance80 by Vauban's magnificent fortifications? and what would be Vauban's amazement81 could he behold82 the stupendous works of modern strategists?
Beyond these proudly-cresting heights, every peak bristling83 with its defiant84 fort, stretches a vast panorama17; the mountain chains of the Jura, the Vosges, the snow-capped Swiss Alps, the plains of Burgundy, all these lie under our eye, clearly defined in the transparent85 atmosphere of this summer afternoon. The campanula white and blue, with abundance of lovely tinted86 deep orange potentills and rich carmine87 dianthus, were growing at our feet, with numerous other wild flowers. The pretty pink mallow, cultivated in gardens, grows everywhere, but not so luxuriantly here as about Morteau, and the serviceberry and barberry have almost disappeared. This is indeed a paradise for botanists88, but their travels should be made earlier in the year. The walks and drives in the neighbourhood of Besan?on are countless, but that to the little valley of the. World's End, "Le Bout7 du Monde," must on no account be omitted.
Again we follow the limpid89 waters of the winding Doubs; on one side hanging vineyards and orchards90, on the other lines of poplars, above these dimpled green hills and craggy peaks are reflected in the still transparent water. We reach the pretty village of Beurre after a succession of landscapes, "l'un plus joli que l'autre," as our French neighbours say, and then come suddenly upon a tiny valley shut in by lofty rocks, aptly called the World's End of these parts, since here the most adventuresome pedestrian must retrace91 his steps—no possibility of scaling these mountain-walls, from which a cascade92 falls so musically; no outlet93 from these impregnable walls into the pastoral country on the other side. We must go back by the way we have come, first having penetrated94 to the heart of the valley by a winding path, and watched the silvery waters tumble down from the grey rocks that seem to touch the blue sky overhead.
The great charm of these landscapes is the abundance of water to be found everywhere, and no less delightful is the sight of springs, fountains, and pumps in every village. Besan?on is noted95 for its handsome fountains, some of which are real works of art, but the tiniest hamlets in the neighbourhood, and, indeed, throughout the whole department of the Doubs, are as well supplied as the city itself. We know what an aristocratic luxury good water is in many an English village, and how too often the poor have no pure drinking water within reach at all; here they have close at hand enough and to spare of the purest and best, and not only their share of that, but of the good things of the earth as well, a bit of vegetable and fruit-garden, a vineyard, and, generally speaking, a little house of their own. Here, as a rule, everybody possesses something, and the working watchmakers have, most of them, their suburban96 gardens, to which they resort on Sundays and holidays. Besan?on is very rich in suburban retreats, and nothing can be more enticing97 than the cottages and villas98 nestled so cosily along the vine-clad hills that surround it on every side. It is, above all, rich in public walks and promenades99, one of these, the Promenade Chamart—a corruption100 of Champ de Mars—possessing some of the finest plane trees in Europe—a gigantic bit of forest on the verge101 of this city—of wonderful beauty and stateliness. These veteran trees vary in height from thirty to thirty-five yards. The Promenade Micaud, so called after its originator, Mayor of Besan?on, in 1842, winds along the river-side, and affords lovely views at every turn. Then there are so-called "squares" in the heart of the town, where military bands play twice a week, and nursemaids and their charges spend the afternoons. Perhaps no city of its size in all France, Besan?on numbers only sixty thousand inhabitants, is better off in this respect, whilst it is so enriched by vine-clad hills and mountains that the country peeps in everywhere.
Considered from all points of view it is a very attractive place to live in, and possesses all the resources of the capital on a small scale; an excellent theatre, free art schools, and an academy of arts, literary, scientific and artistic102 societies, museums, picture galleries, lastly, one of the finest public libraries in France, of which a word or two more later on. First of all something must be said of the city itself, which is especially interesting to the archaeologist and historian, and is very little frequented by English tourists. Alternately Roman, Burgundian, Arlesian, Anglo-French, and Spanish, Besan?on has seen extraordinary vicissitudes103. In the twelfth century it was constituted a free city or Commune, and was not incorporated into the French kingdom till the reign104 of Louis XIV. Traces of these various occupations remain, and as we enter in at one gate and pass out of another, we have each successive chapter of its history suggested to us in the noble Porte Noire or Roman triumphal arch; the ancient cathedral first forming a Roman basilica; the superb semi-Italian, semi-Spanish Palais Granvelle, the H?tel-de-Ville with its handsome sixteenth century fa?ade; the Renaissance105 council chamber in magnificently carved oak of the Palais de Justice—all these stamp the city with the seal of different epochs, and lend majesty106 to the modern, handsome town into which the Besan?on of former times has been transformed. The so-called Porte Taillée a Roman gate hewn out of the solid rock, forms an imposing107 entry to the city, the triumphal arch before mentioned leading to the Cathedral only. Here most picturesquely108 stand the columns and other fragments of the Roman theatre excavated110 by the learned librarian, M. Castan, a few years back. The Archbishop allows no one to see the art-treasures contained in the archiepiscopal palace, among which is a fine Paul Veronese; but the Cathedral is fortunately open, and there the art-lovers may rejoice in perhaps one of the most beautiful Fra Bartolomeos in the world, unfortunately hung too high to be well seen. Exteriorly111 the Cathedral offers little interest, but the interior is very gorgeous—a dazzling display of gold ornaments112, stained glass, pictures, mosaics113, and ecclesiastical riches of all kinds. The other churches of Besan?on are not interesting, architecturally speaking, though picturesque109, especially St. Pierre, with its clock-tower conspicuously114 seen from every part of the town. The archaeological museum is considered the best arranged, as also, in some respects, it is the richest in France, and contains some wonderfully beautiful things, notably115 the Celtic collection found at Alaise, in the Department of the Jura—supposed by some authorities to be the Alesia of Julius Caesar, whilst others have decided116 in favour of Alise Sainte Reine, in Auvergne, where a statue has been raised to the noble Vercingetorix. There are also Gallo-Roman objects of great interest and beauty collected from Mandeure (Epanuoduorum) and other parts of Franche-Comté. Such collections must be studied in detail to be appreciated, and I only mention them as affording another illustration of the principle of decentralization carried on in France—each city and town being enriched and embellished117, as far as possible, and made a centre artistic, scientific, and literary. The museum contains amongst other things a curious collection of old watches, the speciality of Besan?on, of which more will be said hereafter. But what was my astonishment118 and delight, as I sauntered by the little cases under the window containing coins, medals, and antiquities119 of various kinds, to come suddenly upon a label bearing the inscription:—
"La Montre de Vergniaud."
There it lay, the little gold watch of the great Girondin orator120, choicest, most precious relic121 of the Revolution, historic memento122 unrivalled for interest and romantic associations! Vergniaud's watch! The very words take one's breath away, yet there it was, close under my eyes. All those of my readers who are well acquainted with the history of the Revolution in detail, will remember the Last Banquet of the Girondins, that memorable123 meeting together of the martyrs124 of liberty, each one condemned125 to die next morning for his political creed126. The Girondins ruthlessly swept away, the last barrier removed between principle and passion, and the Revolutionary tide was free to work destruction at its will; of these, Vergniaud was undoubtedly127 the greatest, and anything and everything connected with him has a magic interest. After the banquet, which was held with much state and ceremony in a hall of the Conciergerie, now shown to travellers, the twenty-seven Girondins discoursed128 in Platonic129 fashion upon the subjects nearest their hearts, namely, the future of Republican ideas and the immortality130 of the soul. This solemn symposium131 brought to an end, each occupied himself differently, some in making their last testament132, others in deep thought, one in calm sleep; and it was during the interval133 that Vergniaud with a pin scratched inside the case of his elegant little gold watch the name of Adèle, and having done this he handed it to a trustworthy gaoler to be delivered next day. A few hours later his head had fallen on the guillotine, but his last request was duly delivered to the Adèle for whom he designed it, a little girl of thirteen who was to have become his wife. She became in due time a happy wife and mother, and bequeathed Vergniaud's historic watch to a friend, who generously bestowed134 it upon the Besan?on Museum. Charles Nodier, in his "Dernier Banquet des Girondins," gives an eloquent history of this watch, which most likely he saw and handled as a youth. Vergniaud is undoubtedly one of the most striking and imposing figures in the Revolution, and everything concerning him is of deepest interest. His lofty soul, no more than any other of that epoch, could foresee how the French Republic would be established peaceably and friendly after torrents135 of blood and crimes and errors unspeakable.
The picture-galleries, arranged in fine handsome rooms adjoining, contain several chefs d'oeuvre amid a fairly representative collection of French art. The fine Albert Dürer—an altarpiece in wood—the Moro portraits, the Bronzino—Descent from the Cross—all veritable gems136, lastly the portrait of Cardinal137 Granvelle by Titian. This is a noble work; there are also two canvases attributed to Velasquez, "Galileo," and a "Mathematician138." Seeing that Besan?on was under Spanish protection during the great painter's lifetime, and that all kinds of art-treasures were amassed139 by the Granvelles in their superb palace, it might well happen that works of Velasquez should have found their way here. Authorities must decide on the genuineness of these two real works of art.
Under the same roof is the free art-school for students of both sexes, which is one of the most flourishing institutes of the town, and dates from the year 1794. In the second year of study, drawing is taught from the living model, and every facility is thus afforded to those unable to pursue their studies in Paris, or pay the expense of a private study. There is also a free music-school and technical schools, both gratuitous140, and open to both sexes. Nor must we forget the Academy of Science and Belles141 Lettres, which not only affords complete scientific and literary instruction gratuitously142 to the poor student, but also courses of lectures open to the general public from October till June. These lectures may be compared to the Winter series of our Royal Institution, (alas! the privilege of the rich and at least well-to-do only!) and, besides offering a rare intellectual treat to lovers of science and letters generally, are of the greatest possible use to needy143 students. Indeed, so liberal is the City of Besan?on in this respect that any lad who has been lucky enough to get a nomination144 to the Lycée, may here pass his examination for the Bachelier-ès-Lettres and ès-Science without a farthing of costs. Again I may remark, as far as I know, no English town of 60,000 inhabitants, more or less, offers anything like the same advantages in the matter of higher instruction to those who cannot afford to pay for it; but perhaps my English critics will reply that those who cannot pay the cost of Royal Institution or other lectures are unreasonable145 to expect scientific instruction, or recreation, to which argument I have nothing to say. The fact remains146, as everyone who lives in France knows well enough, that we have nothing to be compared to the free Academies, free art and music schools found there so largely, and which have received considerable development of late years. Many of these date from the great Revolution, when the highest instruction was not considered too good for the people. The superior taste, technical skill, and general intelligence of French workmen are due to those causes, and, of course, chiefly to the accessibility of museums, libraries, art-collections, &c. on Sundays. No matter which of these you may happen to visit on a Sunday, you are sure to find that soldiers, artisans and peasants curiously147 inspecting the treasures displayed to view—even dry geological and archaeological collections attracting their attention. It is impossible to have anything to do with the French working classes, and not observe the effect of this artistic culture, and here and there throughout this work I have adduced instances in point. We have nothing in England to be compared to the general filtration of artistic ideas, by means of gratuitous art and technical instruction, and the opening on Sunday of all art and literary collections.
But after all it is the watchmaking school, or, école d'Horlogerie that will perhaps most interest and instruct the traveller here, and he should by no means neglect to visit it; however short his stay may be. Watchmaking is, as is well known, the speciality of Besan?on, and dates as an important branch of industry from the year 1793. The National Convention is to be thanked for the foundation of the first "horlogerie," having invited to Besan?on the refugee watchmakers of Chaux de Fonds and Locle, who had been prescribed for their adherence148 to the Republican idea. By a decree of the Convention, these exiles were accorded succour, after which the Committee declared watchmaking in the Department of the Doubs to be a national institution. Many hundred thousand watches are made here annually149, and it has been computed150 that, out of every hundred watches in the French market, eighty-six come from Besan?on. In the year 1873, 353,764 watches were made, representing a capital of fifteen millions of francs, and the trade increases annually. The watchmaking school located in the picturesque old Grenier, or public granary of the city, numbers over a hundred pupils of both sexes, and is of course gratuitous. The Besan?on watches are noted for their elegance151 and cheapness, being sold at prices which would surprise eminent152 London watchmakers. Many working watchmakers on a small scale, are here, who, by dint153 of great economy, contrive154 to purchase a bit of garden and summer house outside the town, whither they go on Sundays and holidays to breathe the fresh air, and cultivate their flowers and vegetables. But the majority are capitalists on a large scale, as at Montbéliard, and I fear the workman's hours here are as long as at the latter place. The length of the day's labour in France is appalling155, the one blot156 on a bright picture of thrift157, independence, and a general well-being158.
Delightful hours may be spent in the Public Library, one of the richest of provincial159 France, which is also, like the charming little library of Weimar, a museum as well. The most superb of these bibliographical160 treasures were amassed by the Keeper of the Seals of Charles the Fifth, Perrenot de Granvelle, and afterwards bequeathed by the Abbé Brisot, into whose possession they had fallen, to the town of Besan?on. Among them are some splendid manuscripts from the library of Mathias Corvinus, King of Hungary, and a vast collection of choice Aldines bound in the costliest161 manner. No less than 1,200 volumes of the sixteenth century are here, amongst these several specimens162 of topography printed in Franche-Comté. Lovers of rare MSS., old books, and old bindings, have here a feast, indeed, and are generously allowed access to all. Like most other important, libraries in France, it is under the management of a man of learning and distinction; M. Castan, the present librarian, is the author of some valuable works relating to his native province and to his archaeological labours. Besan?on is mainly indebted not only for the excavations163, which have filled its museums with treasures, but for the imposing Roman remains which adorn164 its streets. Besides its bibliographical collections, the library contains a vast number of coins, medallions, busts165, engravings, and portraits relating to the history of Franche-Comté, many of which are highly interesting. The busts, portraits, and relics166 of such noble Franc-Comtois as have won a European reputation—George Cuvier, for instance, whose brain weighed more than that of any human being ever known; Victor Hugo, whose works are familiar to readers in all languages; Charles Fourier, who saw in the Phalanstery, or, Associated Home, a remedy for the crying social evils of the age, and who, in spite of many aberrations167, is entitled to the gratitude168 of mankind for his efforts on behalf of education, and the elevation169 of the laborious170 classes; Proudhon, whose famous dictum, "La propriété c'est le vol," has become the watchword of a certain school of Socialists171, which even the iron despotism of Russia and Germany cannot keep down; Charles Nodier, charming littérateur, who, at the age of twenty-one, was the author of the first satire172 ever published against the first Napoleon, "La Napoléone," which formulated173 the indignation of the Republican party, and a noble roll-call of artists, authors, savants, soldiers, and men of science.
Noteworthy in this treasure-house of Franc-Comtois history is the fine marble statue of Jouffroy by Pradier. Jouffroy, of whom his native province may well be proud, disputes with Fulton the honour of first having applied174 steam to the purposes of navigation. His efforts, made on the river Doubs and the Sa?ne in 1776 and 1783, failed for the want of means to carry out his ideas in full, but the Academy of Science acknowledged his claim to the discovery in 1840. The Besan?on Library, indeed, whether considered as such pur et simple, or a museum, is full of interest and instruction, and deserves a lengthened175 visit. The collection of works on art, architecture, and archaeology176 bequeathed to the city by Paris, architect and designer to Louis XVI., is a very rich one and there is also a cabinet of medals numbering ten thousand pieces.
Besan?on also boasts of several learned societies, one of which founded in the interests of scientific inquiry177 so far back as 1840, "La Société d'émulation du Doubs," numbers five hundred and odd members. One of the most interesting features in the ancient city is its connection with Spain, and what has been termed the golden age of Franche-Comté under the Emperor Charles the Fifth. It will be remembered that Franche-Comté formed a part of the dowry of Margaret, daughter of the Emperor Maximilian of Austria, and it was under her protectorate during her life-time and reverted178 to her nephew Charles the Fifth on his accession to the crowns of Spain, Austria, the Low Countries, and Burgundy. His minister, Perrenot de Granvelle, born at Ornans, infused new intellectual and artistic life into the place he ruled as a prince. His stately Italian palace, still one of the handsomest monuments of Besan?on, was filled with pictures, statues, books, and precious manuscripts, and the stimulus179 thus given to literature and the fine arts was followed by a goodly array of artists, thinkers, and writers. The learned Gilbert Cousin, secretary of Erasmus, Prévost, pupil of Raffaelle, Goudinel of Besan?on, the master of Palestrina, creator of popular music, the lettered family of Chifflet, and many others, shed lustre180 on this splendid period; while not only Besan?on but Lons-le-Saunier, Arbois, and other small towns bear evidence of Spanish influence on architecture and the arts. In the most out of the way places may be found chefs-d'oeuvre dating from the protectorate of Margaret and the Emperor, and it is such scattered181 treasure-trove that makes travelling in out of the way places in Franche-Comté so fruitful to the art-lover in various fields.
The most salient feature of social life at Besan?on is its Catholicism, the place literally182 swarming183 with priests, and soldiers, to the great detriment184 of public morality. The Protestants, nevertheless, hold their own here, and even gain ground, witness the Protestant Church established within the last ten years at Arbois by the Consistory of Besan?on. They have also succeeded in founding a hospital here for the sick and aged poor, which is the greatest possible boon185. Up till that time, this section of the community had been received in the municipal hospital under the management of the nuns186, who, of course, did all in their power to worry their patients into Catholicism. We know what happens when a hospital is under the charge of nuns, and it can easily be understood that many of these poor people preferred to embrace a crucifix than forego their broth187 when half dead of exhaustion188. Some would go through a mock conversion189, others would endure a martyrdom till the last; but the position alike of weak and obstinate190 was unbearable191. Now there is a home, not only for the indigent192 sick and aged, but for those who can afford to pay a small sum for being well looked after; and it is delightful to witness the home-like ease and comfort everywhere. The poor people welcomed their pastor, who accompanied me on my visit, not only as a priest but as a friend, and it was easy to see how they enjoyed a little talk with Madame, and the prattle193 of the children.
The large shady hospital garden overlooking the town is much resorted to in fine weather, and everywhere we found cheerful faces. It is hardly necessary to say that this admirable work needs money. The Catholic clergy194, of course, regard any step in advance on the part of the Protestants with abhorrence195, and do a little bit of persecution196 whenever opportunity offers. Thus, as perhaps may not be known to all my readers, the parish burial-ground in France is open by the law to all sects197 and denominations198 indiscriminately; Protestant, Jew, Mahometan, or Brahmin may here find a resting-place in spite of M. le Curé. Such is the law, and an admirable law it is, but the law means one thing to a Catholic and another to a Protestant There is no Protestant burial-ground in Besan?on or the neighbouring villages, so that everyone is buried in the town and parish cemetery199; but, as mayors of small country towns and villages often happen not to know the law, the curé tries to circumvent200 his enemy at the last. Accordingly, when the time of burial comes, a Protestant pastor may be kept waiting for hours in consequence of this wilful201 obstinacy202; supposing that the mayor is under clerical influence, useless to argue "La loi est avec nous;" curé and mayor persist, and at the last moment the unfortunate pastor has to telegraph to the Préfet, who, whether clerical or not, knows the law, and is obliged to follow it, and consequently sends an authorization203 which ends the matter. This is very blind on the part of the clericals, for it naturally turns the Protestants into martyrs. It happened in a little village, not far from Besan?on, that, after a scene of this kind, all the village population turned into the cemetery, and, by the time the Préfet's order came, the Protestant pastor had a large audience for his discourse over the grave. "C'est si consolant chez les Protestants, l'enterrement des morts," people were heard to say, and let us hope that the curé and the mayor were punished for their folly204 by a few conversions205 among their flocks to Protestantism.
A mediaeval writer, Fran?ois de Belleforest, thus describes Besan?on:—
"Si par12 l'antiquité, continuée en grandeur206, la bénédiction de Dieu se cognoit en une lieu, il n'y a ville ni cité en toutes les Gaules qui ayt plus grande occasion de remarquer la faveur de Dieu, en soy que la cité dont nous avions prise le discours. Car, en premier208 lieu, elle est assise en aussi bonne et riche assiette que ville du monde; estant entouré de riches costeaux et vignobles, et de belles et hautes f?rets, ayant la rivière du Doux qui passe par le millieu, et enclost pour le plupart d'icelle, estant bien, d'ailleurs fort bien approvisionée. Les fruicts y sont aussi bons, et y a aussi bonne commodité de venaison et de gibier en ceste ville, qu'en autre qu'on sceut choisir. Et puis ce qu'elle est à la cheultes des montagnes, on la tient pour le grenier commun du comté de Bourgogne, comme jadis Sicile estait de l'Itaile. Et s'il était question d'estimer la vertu d'un peuple, qui s'est longtemps maintenu libre sans ployer la gantelet, ni rien perdu de sa réputation, on peut, à bon droit, faire cas de ceste cité. Et certes de tout207 temps ceste brave cité a esté enviée des tyrans, pour en usurper209 la domination. Et il n'y a ni eu ni menaces, ni allêchement qui ayent sceu esbranler les nobles et libres coeurs besan?onnais, pour quicter aucune chose de leurs libertez, quelques couleurs de grandeur et de richesses qu'on leur ayt mis audevant pour se laisser annexer au comté de Bourgogne, et avoir un parlément, et se mettre auxpieds ce qu'il ont aux mains."
点击收听单词发音
1 distractions | |
n.使人分心的事[人]( distraction的名词复数 );娱乐,消遣;心烦意乱;精神错乱 | |
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2 delightful | |
adj.令人高兴的,使人快乐的 | |
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3 inauguration | |
n.开幕、就职典礼 | |
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4 cosily | |
adv.舒适地,惬意地 | |
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5 spout | |
v.喷出,涌出;滔滔不绝地讲;n.喷管;水柱 | |
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6 conspicuous | |
adj.明眼的,惹人注目的;炫耀的,摆阔气的 | |
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7 bout | |
n.侵袭,发作;一次(阵,回);拳击等比赛 | |
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8 aged | |
adj.年老的,陈年的 | |
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9 mar | |
vt.破坏,毁坏,弄糟 | |
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10 enjoyment | |
n.乐趣;享有;享用 | |
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11 apparition | |
n.幽灵,神奇的现象 | |
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12 par | |
n.标准,票面价值,平均数量;adj.票面的,平常的,标准的 | |
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13 abounds | |
v.大量存在,充满,富于( abound的第三人称单数 ) | |
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14 sublime | |
adj.崇高的,伟大的;极度的,不顾后果的 | |
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15 grandiose | |
adj.宏伟的,宏大的,堂皇的,铺张的 | |
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16 pastor | |
n.牧师,牧人 | |
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17 panorama | |
n.全景,全景画,全景摄影,全景照片[装置] | |
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18 panoramas | |
全景画( panorama的名词复数 ); 全景照片; 一连串景象或事 | |
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19 trespass | |
n./v.侵犯,闯入私人领地 | |
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20 phenomena | |
n.现象 | |
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21 dame | |
n.女士 | |
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22 unpacked | |
v.从(包裹等)中取出(所装的东西),打开行李取出( unpack的过去式和过去分词 );拆包;解除…的负担;吐露(心事等) | |
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23 fresco | |
n.壁画;vt.作壁画于 | |
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24 heartiest | |
亲切的( hearty的最高级 ); 热诚的; 健壮的; 精神饱满的 | |
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25 renowned | |
adj.著名的,有名望的,声誉鹊起的 | |
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26 immediate | |
adj.立即的;直接的,最接近的;紧靠的 | |
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27 miller | |
n.磨坊主 | |
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28 mere | |
adj.纯粹的;仅仅,只不过 | |
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29 bowels | |
n.肠,内脏,内部;肠( bowel的名词复数 );内部,最深处 | |
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30 contented | |
adj.满意的,安心的,知足的 | |
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31 promenade | |
n./v.散步 | |
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32 chilly | |
adj.凉快的,寒冷的 | |
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33 winding | |
n.绕,缠,绕组,线圈 | |
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34 windings | |
(道路、河流等)蜿蜒的,弯曲的( winding的名词复数 ); 缠绕( wind的现在分词 ); 卷绕; 转动(把手) | |
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35 subterranean | |
adj.地下的,地表下的 | |
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36 vaulted | |
adj.拱状的 | |
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37 chamber | |
n.房间,寝室;会议厅;议院;会所 | |
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38 petrifying | |
v.吓呆,使麻木( petrify的现在分词 );使吓呆,使惊呆;僵化 | |
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39 apportioned | |
vt.分摊,分配(apportion的过去式与过去分词形式) | |
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40 persistence | |
n.坚持,持续,存留 | |
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41 embryo | |
n.胚胎,萌芽的事物 | |
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42 petrifaction | |
n.石化,化石;吓呆;惊呆 | |
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43 inevitable | |
adj.不可避免的,必然发生的 | |
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44 sentient | |
adj.有知觉的,知悉的;adv.有感觉能力地 | |
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45 transformation | |
n.变化;改造;转变 | |
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46 upwards | |
adv.向上,在更高处...以上 | |
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47 stamina | |
n.体力;精力;耐力 | |
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48 covet | |
vt.垂涎;贪图(尤指属于他人的东西) | |
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49 accomplished | |
adj.有才艺的;有造诣的;达到了的 | |
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50 countless | |
adj.无数的,多得不计其数的 | |
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51 overthrown | |
adj. 打翻的,推倒的,倾覆的 动词overthrow的过去分词 | |
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52 majestic | |
adj.雄伟的,壮丽的,庄严的,威严的,崇高的 | |
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53 chambers | |
n.房间( chamber的名词复数 );(议会的)议院;卧室;会议厅 | |
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54 insignificant | |
adj.无关紧要的,可忽略的,无意义的 | |
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55 scrawled | |
乱涂,潦草地写( scrawl的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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56 philosophically | |
adv.哲学上;富有哲理性地;贤明地;冷静地 | |
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57 propensity | |
n.倾向;习性 | |
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58 perpetuate | |
v.使永存,使永记不忘 | |
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59 tenants | |
n.房客( tenant的名词复数 );佃户;占用者;占有者 | |
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60 vaults | |
n.拱顶( vault的名词复数 );地下室;撑物跳高;墓穴 | |
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61 eerie | |
adj.怪诞的;奇异的;可怕的;胆怯的 | |
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62 strictly | |
adv.严厉地,严格地;严密地 | |
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63 eloquent | |
adj.雄辩的,口才流利的;明白显示出的 | |
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64 discourse | |
n.论文,演说;谈话;话语;vi.讲述,著述 | |
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65 sociably | |
adv.成群地 | |
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66 rustic | |
adj.乡村的,有乡村特色的;n.乡下人,乡巴佬 | |
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67 epoch | |
n.(新)时代;历元 | |
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68 disport | |
v.嬉戏,玩 | |
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69 glade | |
n.林间空地,一片表面有草的沼泽低地 | |
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70 rambles | |
(无目的地)漫游( ramble的第三人称单数 ); (喻)漫谈; 扯淡; 长篇大论 | |
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71 contingent | |
adj.视条件而定的;n.一组,代表团,分遣队 | |
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72 animated | |
adj.生气勃勃的,活跃的,愉快的 | |
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73 twilight | |
n.暮光,黄昏;暮年,晚期,衰落时期 | |
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74 rugged | |
adj.高低不平的,粗糙的,粗壮的,强健的 | |
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75 rivulet | |
n.小溪,小河 | |
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76 eminence | |
n.卓越,显赫;高地,高处;名家 | |
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77 chapel | |
n.小教堂,殡仪馆 | |
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78 citadel | |
n.城堡;堡垒;避难所 | |
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79 dwarfed | |
vt.(使)显得矮小(dwarf的过去式与过去分词形式) | |
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80 insignificance | |
n.不重要;无价值;无意义 | |
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81 amazement | |
n.惊奇,惊讶 | |
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82 behold | |
v.看,注视,看到 | |
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83 bristling | |
a.竖立的 | |
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84 defiant | |
adj.无礼的,挑战的 | |
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85 transparent | |
adj.明显的,无疑的;透明的 | |
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86 tinted | |
adj. 带色彩的 动词tint的过去式和过去分词 | |
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87 carmine | |
n.深红色,洋红色 | |
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88 botanists | |
n.植物学家,研究植物的人( botanist的名词复数 ) | |
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89 limpid | |
adj.清澈的,透明的 | |
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90 orchards | |
(通常指围起来的)果园( orchard的名词复数 ) | |
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91 retrace | |
v.折回;追溯,探源 | |
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92 cascade | |
n.小瀑布,喷流;层叠;vi.成瀑布落下 | |
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93 outlet | |
n.出口/路;销路;批发商店;通风口;发泄 | |
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94 penetrated | |
adj. 击穿的,鞭辟入里的 动词penetrate的过去式和过去分词形式 | |
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95 noted | |
adj.著名的,知名的 | |
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96 suburban | |
adj.城郊的,在郊区的 | |
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97 enticing | |
adj.迷人的;诱人的 | |
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98 villas | |
别墅,公馆( villa的名词复数 ); (城郊)住宅 | |
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99 promenades | |
n.人行道( promenade的名词复数 );散步场所;闲逛v.兜风( promenade的第三人称单数 ) | |
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100 corruption | |
n.腐败,堕落,贪污 | |
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101 verge | |
n.边,边缘;v.接近,濒临 | |
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102 artistic | |
adj.艺术(家)的,美术(家)的;善于艺术创作的 | |
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103 vicissitudes | |
n.变迁,世事变化;变迁兴衰( vicissitude的名词复数 );盛衰兴废 | |
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104 reign | |
n.统治时期,统治,支配,盛行;v.占优势 | |
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105 renaissance | |
n.复活,复兴,文艺复兴 | |
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106 majesty | |
n.雄伟,壮丽,庄严,威严;最高权威,王权 | |
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107 imposing | |
adj.使人难忘的,壮丽的,堂皇的,雄伟的 | |
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108 picturesquely | |
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109 picturesque | |
adj.美丽如画的,(语言)生动的,绘声绘色的 | |
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110 excavated | |
v.挖掘( excavate的过去式和过去分词 );开凿;挖出;发掘 | |
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111 exteriorly | |
adv.从外部,表面上 | |
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112 ornaments | |
n.装饰( ornament的名词复数 );点缀;装饰品;首饰v.装饰,点缀,美化( ornament的第三人称单数 ) | |
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113 mosaics | |
n.马赛克( mosaic的名词复数 );镶嵌;镶嵌工艺;镶嵌图案 | |
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114 conspicuously | |
ad.明显地,惹人注目地 | |
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115 notably | |
adv.值得注意地,显著地,尤其地,特别地 | |
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116 decided | |
adj.决定了的,坚决的;明显的,明确的 | |
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117 embellished | |
v.美化( embellish的过去式和过去分词 );装饰;修饰;润色 | |
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118 astonishment | |
n.惊奇,惊异 | |
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119 antiquities | |
n.古老( antiquity的名词复数 );古迹;古人们;古代的风俗习惯 | |
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120 orator | |
n.演说者,演讲者,雄辩家 | |
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121 relic | |
n.神圣的遗物,遗迹,纪念物 | |
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122 memento | |
n.纪念品,令人回忆的东西 | |
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123 memorable | |
adj.值得回忆的,难忘的,特别的,显著的 | |
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124 martyrs | |
n.martyr的复数形式;烈士( martyr的名词复数 );殉道者;殉教者;乞怜者(向人诉苦以博取同情) | |
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125 condemned | |
adj. 被责难的, 被宣告有罪的 动词condemn的过去式和过去分词 | |
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126 creed | |
n.信条;信念,纲领 | |
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127 undoubtedly | |
adv.确实地,无疑地 | |
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128 discoursed | |
演说(discourse的过去式与过去分词形式) | |
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129 platonic | |
adj.精神的;柏拉图(哲学)的 | |
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130 immortality | |
n.不死,不朽 | |
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131 symposium | |
n.讨论会,专题报告会;专题论文集 | |
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132 testament | |
n.遗嘱;证明 | |
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133 interval | |
n.间隔,间距;幕间休息,中场休息 | |
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134 bestowed | |
赠给,授予( bestow的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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135 torrents | |
n.倾注;奔流( torrent的名词复数 );急流;爆发;连续不断 | |
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136 gems | |
growth; economy; management; and customer satisfaction 增长 | |
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137 cardinal | |
n.(天主教的)红衣主教;adj.首要的,基本的 | |
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138 mathematician | |
n.数学家 | |
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139 amassed | |
v.积累,积聚( amass的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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140 gratuitous | |
adj.无偿的,免费的;无缘无故的,不必要的 | |
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141 belles | |
n.美女( belle的名词复数 );最美的美女 | |
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142 gratuitously | |
平白 | |
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143 needy | |
adj.贫穷的,贫困的,生活艰苦的 | |
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144 nomination | |
n.提名,任命,提名权 | |
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145 unreasonable | |
adj.不讲道理的,不合情理的,过度的 | |
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146 remains | |
n.剩余物,残留物;遗体,遗迹 | |
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147 curiously | |
adv.有求知欲地;好问地;奇特地 | |
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148 adherence | |
n.信奉,依附,坚持,固着 | |
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149 annually | |
adv.一年一次,每年 | |
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150 computed | |
adj.[医]计算的,使用计算机的v.计算,估算( compute的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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151 elegance | |
n.优雅;优美,雅致;精致,巧妙 | |
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152 eminent | |
adj.显赫的,杰出的,有名的,优良的 | |
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153 dint | |
n.由于,靠;凹坑 | |
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154 contrive | |
vt.谋划,策划;设法做到;设计,想出 | |
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155 appalling | |
adj.骇人听闻的,令人震惊的,可怕的 | |
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156 blot | |
vt.弄脏(用吸墨纸)吸干;n.污点,污渍 | |
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157 thrift | |
adj.节约,节俭;n.节俭,节约 | |
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158 well-being | |
n.安康,安乐,幸福 | |
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159 provincial | |
adj.省的,地方的;n.外省人,乡下人 | |
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160 bibliographical | |
书籍解题的,著书目录的 | |
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161 costliest | |
adj.昂贵的( costly的最高级 );代价高的;引起困难的;造成损失的 | |
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162 specimens | |
n.样品( specimen的名词复数 );范例;(化验的)抽样;某种类型的人 | |
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163 excavations | |
n.挖掘( excavation的名词复数 );开凿;开凿的洞穴(或山路等);(发掘出来的)古迹 | |
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164 adorn | |
vt.使美化,装饰 | |
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165 busts | |
半身雕塑像( bust的名词复数 ); 妇女的胸部; 胸围; 突击搜捕 | |
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166 relics | |
[pl.]n.遗物,遗迹,遗产;遗体,尸骸 | |
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167 aberrations | |
n.偏差( aberration的名词复数 );差错;脱离常规;心理失常 | |
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168 gratitude | |
adj.感激,感谢 | |
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169 elevation | |
n.高度;海拔;高地;上升;提高 | |
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170 laborious | |
adj.吃力的,努力的,不流畅 | |
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171 socialists | |
社会主义者( socialist的名词复数 ) | |
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172 satire | |
n.讽刺,讽刺文学,讽刺作品 | |
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173 formulated | |
v.构想出( formulate的过去式和过去分词 );规划;确切地阐述;用公式表示 | |
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174 applied | |
adj.应用的;v.应用,适用 | |
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175 lengthened | |
(时间或空间)延长,伸长( lengthen的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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176 archaeology | |
n.考古学 | |
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177 inquiry | |
n.打听,询问,调查,查问 | |
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178 reverted | |
恢复( revert的过去式和过去分词 ); 重提; 回到…上; 归还 | |
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179 stimulus | |
n.刺激,刺激物,促进因素,引起兴奋的事物 | |
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180 lustre | |
n.光亮,光泽;荣誉 | |
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181 scattered | |
adj.分散的,稀疏的;散步的;疏疏落落的 | |
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182 literally | |
adv.照字面意义,逐字地;确实 | |
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183 swarming | |
密集( swarm的现在分词 ); 云集; 成群地移动; 蜜蜂或其他飞行昆虫成群地飞来飞去 | |
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184 detriment | |
n.损害;损害物,造成损害的根源 | |
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185 boon | |
n.恩赐,恩物,恩惠 | |
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186 nuns | |
n.(通常指基督教的)修女, (佛教的)尼姑( nun的名词复数 ) | |
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187 broth | |
n.原(汁)汤(鱼汤、肉汤、菜汤等) | |
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188 exhaustion | |
n.耗尽枯竭,疲惫,筋疲力尽,竭尽,详尽无遗的论述 | |
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189 conversion | |
n.转化,转换,转变 | |
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190 obstinate | |
adj.顽固的,倔强的,不易屈服的,较难治愈的 | |
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191 unbearable | |
adj.不能容忍的;忍受不住的 | |
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192 indigent | |
adj.贫穷的,贫困的 | |
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193 prattle | |
n.闲谈;v.(小孩般)天真无邪地说话;发出连续而无意义的声音 | |
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194 clergy | |
n.[总称]牧师,神职人员 | |
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195 abhorrence | |
n.憎恶;可憎恶的事 | |
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196 persecution | |
n. 迫害,烦扰 | |
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197 sects | |
n.宗派,教派( sect的名词复数 ) | |
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198 denominations | |
n.宗派( denomination的名词复数 );教派;面额;名称 | |
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199 cemetery | |
n.坟墓,墓地,坟场 | |
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200 circumvent | |
vt.环绕,包围;对…用计取胜,智胜 | |
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201 wilful | |
adj.任性的,故意的 | |
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202 obstinacy | |
n.顽固;(病痛等)难治 | |
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203 authorization | |
n.授权,委任状 | |
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204 folly | |
n.愚笨,愚蠢,蠢事,蠢行,傻话 | |
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205 conversions | |
变换( conversion的名词复数 ); (宗教、信仰等)彻底改变; (尤指为居住而)改建的房屋; 橄榄球(触地得分后再把球射中球门的)附加得分 | |
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206 grandeur | |
n.伟大,崇高,宏伟,庄严,豪华 | |
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207 tout | |
v.推销,招徕;兜售;吹捧,劝诱 | |
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208 premier | |
adj.首要的;n.总理,首相 | |
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209 usurper | |
n. 篡夺者, 僭取者 | |
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