It must also be explained that as the mere tourist is a rare phenomenon in these remote parts, the hotels are not arranged in order to meet his wants, but those of the commis-voyageur, or commercial traveller, who is the chief and best customer of innkeepers all over the country. You meet no one else at the table-d'h?te but the commis-voyageurs, and it must not be supposed that they are in any way objectionable company. They quietly sit out the various courses, then retire to the billiard-room, and they are particularly polite to ladies. Throughout the journey we were on the borders of Switzerland, the thinnest possible partition dividing the land of cleanliness, order, and first-rate accommodation from that of dirt, noise, and discomfort; yet so rigid8 is the demarcation that no sooner do you put foot on Swiss ground than you find the difference. Quite naturally, English travellers keep on the other side of the border, and only a stray one now and then crosses it.
Our little calèche and horse left much to desire, but the good qualities of our driver made up for everything. He was a fine old man, with a face worthy9 of a Roman Emperor, and, having driven all over the country for thirty years, knew it well, and found friends everywhere. Although wearing a blue cotton blouse, he was in the best sense of the word a gentleman, and we were somewhat astonished to find him seated opposite to us at our first table-d'h?te breakfast. We soon saw that he well deserved the respect shown him; quiet, polite, dignified10, he was the last person in the world to abuse his privileges, never dreaming of familiarity. The extreme politeness shown towards the working classes here by all in a superior social station doubtless accounts for the good manners we find among them. My fellow-traveller, the widow of a French officer, never dreamed of accosting11 our good Eugène without the preliminary Monsieur, and did not feel herself at all aggrieved12 at having him for her vis-à-vis at meals. Eugène, like the greater part of his fellow-countrymen, is proud and economical, and, in order not to become dependent upon his children, or charity, in his old age, had already with his savings13 bought a house and garden. It is impossible to give any idea of the thrift14 and laboriousness15 of the better order of working classes here.
Soon after quitting Montbéliard we began to ascend16, and for the rest of the day were climbing, gradually exchanging the region of corn-fields and vineyards for that of the pine. From Montbéliard to St. Hippolyte is a superb drive of about five hours, amid wild gorges17, grandiose18 rocks that have here taken every imaginable form—rampart, citadel19, fortress20, tower, all trellised and tasselled with the brightest green; and narrow mountains, valleys, here called "combes"—delicious little emerald islands shut in by towering heights on every side. The mingled21 wildness and beauty of the scenery reach their culminating point at St. Hippolyte, a pretty little town with picturesque22 church, superbly situated23 at the foot of three mountain gorges and the confluence24 of the Doubs with the Dessoubre, the latter river here turning off in the direction of Fuans. Here we halt for breakfast, and in two hours' time are again ascending25, looking down from a tremendous height at the town, incomparably situated in the very heart of these solitary26 passes and ravines. Our road is a wonderful bit of achievement, curling as it does around what below appear unapproachable precipices27, and from the beginning of our journey to the end, we never ceased admiring it. This famous road was constructed with many others in Louis Philippe's time, and must have done great things for the progress of the country. Excepting an isolated28 little chateau29 here and there, and an occasional diligence and band of cantonniers, all is solitary, and the solitariness30 and grandeur31 increase as we leave the region of rocks and ravines to enter that of the pine—still getting higher and higher. From St. Hippolyte to our next halting place, Ma?che, the road only quits one pine-forest to enter another, our way now being perfectly32 solitary, no herdsman's hut in sight, no sound of bird or animal, nothing to break the silence. Some of these trees are of great height—their sombre foliage33 at this season of the year being relieved by an abundance of light brown cones34, which give them the appearance of gigantic Christmas trees hung with golden gifts. Glorious as is the scenery we had lately passed, hoary35 rocks clothed with richest green, verdant36 slopes, valleys, and mountain sides all glowing in the sunshine—the majestic37 gloom and isolation38 of the pine-forests appeal more to the imagination, and fill the mind with deeper delight. Next to the sea, the pine-forest, to my thinking, is the sublimest40 of nature's handiworks. Nothing can lessen41, nothing can enlarge such grandeur as we have here. Sea and pine-forest are the same, alike in thunder-cloud or under a serene42 sky—summer and winter, lightning and rain—we can hardly add by a hairbreadth to the profundity43 of the impression they produce.
Ma?che might conveniently be made a summer resort, and I can fancy nothing healthier and pleasanter than such a sojourn44 around these fragrant45 pines. The hotel, too, from what we saw of it, pleased us greatly, and the landlady46, like most of the people we have to do with in these parts, was all kindness, obligingness, and good-nature. In large cities and cosmopolitan47 hotels, a traveller is Number one, two, or three, as the case may be and nothing more. Here, host and hostess interest themselves in all their visitors, and regard them as human beings. The charges moreover are so trifling48 that, in undertaking49 a journey of this kind, hotel expenses need hardly count at all—the real cost is the carriage.
From Ma?che to Le Russey, our halting place for the night, is a distance of three hours only, during which we are still in the pine-woods. Le Russey possesses no attractions, except a quaint50 and highly artistic51 monument to the memory of one of her children, a certain Jesuit missionary52, whose imposing53 statue, cross in hand, is conspicuously54 placed above the public fountain. We cannot have too many of these local monuments, unfortunately rarer in England than in France. They lend character to provincial55 towns, and keep up a spirit of patriotism56 and emulation57 among the people. The little town of Le Russey should, if possible, be halted at for an hour or two only, the hotels are dirty and uncomfortable; we fared worse there than I ever remember to have fared in France—which is saying a good deal!
Next morning we were off at eight o'clock; our road, now level for the most part, leading us through very different scenery from that of the day before, monotonous58 open country, mostly pasturage, with lines of pine and fir against the horizon—in many places were rocky wastes, hardly affording scant59 herbage for the cattle. Much of this scenery reminded me of the Fell district or North Wales, but by degrees we entered upon a far more interesting region. We were now close to Switzerland, and the landscape already wore a Swiss look. There is nothing prettier in a quiet way than this Swiss borderland, reached after a long stretch of dreary60 country; here we have grace without severity, beauty without gloom, pastoral hills and dales alive with the tinkling61 of cattle-bells, and pleasingly diversified62 with villages scattered63 here and there; a church spire64 rising above the broad-roofed, white-washed chalets on every side, undulating green pastures, in some places shut in by pine-clad ridges65, in others by smiling green hills. We see patches of corn still too green to cut, also bits of beet-root, maize66, hemp67, and potatoes; the chief produce of these parts is of course that of the dairy, the "Beurre de Montagne," being famous in these parts. Throughout our journey we have never lost sight of the service-berry tree; the road from Ma?che to Morteau is indeed planted with them, and nothing can be handsomer than the clusters of bright red, coral-like berries we have on every side. The hedges show also the crimson-tasselled fruit of the barberry, no less ornamental68 than the service-berry tree. It is evident the greatest possible care is taken of these wayside plantations69, and in a few years' time the road will present the appearance of a boulevard. At La Chenalotte, a hamlet half way between Le Russey and Morteau, enterprising pedestrians70, may alight and take a two hours' walk by a mountain path to the Falls of the Doubs; but as the roads were very bad on account of the late heavy rains, we prefer to drive on to the little hamlet of Les Pargots, beyond Morteau, and from thence reach the falls by means of a boat, traversing the lake of Les Brenets and the basin of the Doubs. The little Swiss village of Les Brenets is coquettishly perched on a green hill commanding the lake, and we are now indeed on Swiss ground, being within a few miles only of Chaux de Fonds, and a short railway journey of Neufchatel and Pontarlier.
We trust ourselves to the care of an experienced boatwoman, and are soon in a fairy-like scene, a long sheet of limpid71 water surrounded by verdant ridges, amid which peep chalets here and there, and velvety72 pastures slope down to the water's edge; all is here tenderness, loveliness, and peace. As we glide73 from the lake to the basins, the scenery takes a severer character, and there is sublimity74 in these gigantic walls of rock rising sheer from the silvery lakelike sheets of water, each successive one seeming to us more beautiful and romantic than the last. Perfect solitude75 reigns76 here, for so precipitous and steep are these fortress-like rocks that there is no "coigne of vantage," even for the mountain goat, not the tiniest path from summit to base, no single break in the shelving masses, some of which take the weirdest77 forms. Seen as we first saw them with a brilliant blue sky overhead, no shadow on the gold green verdure, these exquisite78 little lakes—twin pearls on a string—afford the daintiest, most delightful79 spectacle; but a leaden sky and a driving wind turn this scene of enchantment80 into gloom and monotony, as we find on our way back.
The serene beauty of the lake, and the imposing aspect of these rock-shut basins give an ascending scale of beauty, and the climax81 is reached when, having glided82 in and out from the first to the last, we alight, climb a mountain path, and behold83 far below at our feet, amid a deafening84 roar, the majestic Falls of the Doubs.
Such things are indescribable; but to come from the sublime39 to the ludicrous, I would advise future travellers not to follow our example in respect of a woman-boatman. The good woman, who acted as guide to the Falls could not hold her tongue for a single moment, and her loud inharmonious tittle-tattle put us in ill-humour for the rest of the day. When you make a long journey to see such a phenomenon as this, you should see it alone, or, at least, in perfect quiet. We had come opportunely85 for the Falls, however, the enormous quantity of rain that had fallen within the last few weeks having greatly augmented86 their volume. It was as if no river, but a sea were leaping from its prison here, rejoiced to leave its rocky home and follow its own wild way. The profound impression created by such a scene as this, to my thinking, lies chiefly in the striking contrast we have here before us—a vast eddy87 of snow-white foam88, the very personification of impetuous movement, also of lightness, sparkling whiteness, with a background of pitchy black rock, still, immoveable, changeless, as the heavens above.
As we stood thus lost, peering down at the silvery whirlpools and its sombre environment, we were bedewed with a light mist, spray sent upward by the frothing waters. Our terrible female Cerberus gabbled on, and so to be rid of her we descended89. There is a Restaurant on the French, also on the Swiss side of the basin we had just crossed, and we chose the latter, not with particular success. Very little we got either to eat or drink, and a very long while we had to wait for it, but at last we had dined, and again embarked90 to cross the basin and lake. In the meantime the weather had entirely91 changed, and, instead of a glowing blue sky and bright sun, we had hovering92 clouds and high winds, making our boatwoman's task difficult in the extreme. However she continued to clear one little promontory93 after another, and, when once out of the closely confined basins on to the more open lake, all was as easy as possible.
We found the H?tel Gimbard at Morteau a vast improvement upon that of Le Russey, and woke up refreshed next morning after having well supped and well slept, to find, alas94! thunder, lightning, and torrents95 of rain the order of the day. The programme had been to turn off at Morteau in the direction of Fuans and the picturesque banks of the Dessoubre, reaching St. Hippolyte at night, but with great reluctance96 we were now obliged to give up this round. From Morteau to St. Hippolyte is a day's journey, only to be made by starting at eight in the morning, and there are not even decent wayside inns. So we patiently waited till the storm was over, and as by that time it was past midday, there was nothing to do but drive leisurely97 back to Ma?che. More fortunate travellers than ourselves, in the matter of weather, however, are particularly recommended the other route. Ma?che is a good specimen98 of the large, flourishing villages, or bourgs, found in these parts, and a greater contrast with those of Brittany cannot be conceived. There you find no upper or middle-class element, no progress, little communication with the outer world; some of the towns even, St. Pol de Léon, for instance, being literally99 asleep. Here all is life, bustle100, and animation101, and, though we are now amid a Catholic community, order and comparative cleanliness prevail. Some of the cottage gardens are quite charming, and handsome modern homes in large numbers denote the existence of rich bourgeois102 families, as is also the case in the villages near Montbéliard. The commune of Ma?che has large revenues, especially in forest lands, and we can thus account for the really magnificent cure, or presbytère, the residence of the curé, also the imposing H?tel-de-Ville, and new costly103 decoration of the church. There is evidently money for everything, and the curé of Ma?che must be a happy person, contrasting his position favorably with that of his fellow-curés in the Protestant villages around Montbéliard. The down-hill drive from our airy eminence104 amid the pine-forests was even more striking than our ascent105 two days before; and we naturally got over the ground in less than half the time. It is a pity such delightful scenery as this should not be made more accessible to travellers by a first rate inn. There are several hotels at Ma?che, also at St. Hippolyte and Pont de Roide, but they are adapted rather to the wants of the commis-voyageur than the tourist. Yet there is a friendliness106, a bonhomie, and disinterestedness107 about the hotel-keepers, which would soon disappear were Franche Comté turned into a little Switzerland. At the table-d'h?te dinner, the master of the house always presides and looks after the guests, waiters there are none; sometimes the plates are changed by the landlady, who also superintends the kitchen, sometimes by the landlord, sometimes by a guest, and shortcomings are always made up for by general geniality108. Everyone knows everyone, and the dinner is a meeting of old friends.
All this will soon be changed with the new line of railway to lead from Besan?on by way of St. Hippolyte and Morteau into Switzerland, and future travellers will be able to see this beautiful country with very little fatigue109. As yet Franche Comté is an unknown region, and the sight of an English tourist is of rare occurrence. When we leave Pont de Ro?de, we once more enter the region of Protestantism, every village possessing a Protestant as well as a Catholic Church. The drive to Blamont is charming—a bit of Devonshire, with green lanes, dells, and glades110, curling streams and smooth pastures. Blamont itself is romantically situated, crossing a verdant mountain side, its twin spires111 (Protestant and Catholic) rising conspicuously above the scattered villages; beyond these, the low mountain range of Blamont.
We have been all this time, be it remembered, geographically112 speaking in the Jura, though departmentally in the Doubs, the succession of rocks and mountains passed through forming part of the Jura range which vanishes in the green slopes of Blamont.
The next village, Glaye, is hardly less picturesque, and indeed all this neighbourhood would afford charming excursions for the pedestrian. The rest of our drive lay through an open, fairly-cultivated plain with little manufacturing colonies, thickly scattered among the rural population. In many cases the tall black chimneys spoil the pastoralness of the scene.
It was with extreme regret I took farewell of the friendly little Protestant town of Montbéliard, soon after this journey. I had entered it a few weeks before, a stranger, I quitted it amid the good wishes, hand-clasps, and affectionate farewells of a dozen kind friends. Two hours' railway journey, through a beautiful country, brought me to Besan?on, where, as at Montbéliard, I received the warmest welcome, and felt at home at once.
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1
amiability
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| n.和蔼可亲的，亲切的，友善的 | |
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growl
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| v.（狗等）嗥叫，（炮等）轰鸣；n.嗥叫，轰鸣 | |
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grumble
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| vi.抱怨；咕哝；n.抱怨，牢骚；咕哝，隆隆声 | |
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discomfort
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| n.不舒服，不安，难过，困难，不方便 | |
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persistent
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| adj.坚持不懈的，执意的；持续的 | |
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mere
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| adj.纯粹的；仅仅，只不过 | |
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amiable
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| adj.和蔼可亲的，友善的，亲切的 | |
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rigid
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| adj.严格的，死板的；刚硬的，僵硬的 | |
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worthy
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| adj.(of)值得的，配得上的；有价值的 | |
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dignified
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| a.可敬的，高贵的 | |
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accosting
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| v.走过去跟…讲话( accost的现在分词 )；跟…搭讪；（乞丐等）上前向…乞讨；（妓女等）勾搭 | |
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aggrieved
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| adj.愤愤不平的，受委屈的；悲痛的；（在合法权利方面）受侵害的v.令委屈，令苦恼，侵害( aggrieve的过去式)；令委屈，令苦恼，侵害( aggrieve的过去式和过去分词) | |
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savings
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| n.存款，储蓄 | |
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thrift
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| adj.节约，节俭；n.节俭，节约 | |
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laboriousness
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ascend
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| vi.渐渐上升，升高；vt.攀登，登上 | |
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gorges
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| n.山峡，峡谷( gorge的名词复数 )；咽喉v.（用食物把自己）塞饱，填饱( gorge的第三人称单数 )；作呕 | |
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grandiose
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| adj.宏伟的，宏大的，堂皇的，铺张的 | |
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citadel
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| n.城堡；堡垒；避难所 | |
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fortress
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| n.堡垒，防御工事 | |
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mingled
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| 混合，混入( mingle的过去式和过去分词 )； 混进，与…交往[联系] | |
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picturesque
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| adj.美丽如画的，（语言）生动的，绘声绘色的 | |
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situated
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| adj.坐落在...的，处于某种境地的 | |
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confluence
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| n.汇合，聚集 | |
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ascending
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| adj.上升的，向上的 | |
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solitary
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| adj.孤独的，独立的，荒凉的；n.隐士 | |
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precipices
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| n.悬崖，峭壁( precipice的名词复数 ) | |
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isolated
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| adj.与世隔绝的 | |
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chateau
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| n.城堡，别墅 | |
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solitariness
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| n.隐居；单独 | |
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grandeur
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| n.伟大，崇高，宏伟，庄严，豪华 | |
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perfectly
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| adv.完美地，无可非议地，彻底地 | |
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foliage
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| n.叶子，树叶，簇叶 | |
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cones
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| n.（人眼）圆锥细胞；圆锥体( cone的名词复数 )；球果；圆锥形东西；（盛冰淇淋的）锥形蛋卷筒 | |
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hoary
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| adj.古老的；鬓发斑白的 | |
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verdant
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| adj.翠绿的，青翠的，生疏的，不老练的 | |
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majestic
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| adj.雄伟的，壮丽的，庄严的，威严的，崇高的 | |
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isolation
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| n.隔离，孤立，分解，分离 | |
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sublime
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| adj.崇高的，伟大的；极度的，不顾后果的 | |
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40
sublimest
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| 伟大的( sublime的最高级 )； 令人赞叹的； 极端的； 不顾后果的 | |
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41
lessen
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| vt.减少，减轻；缩小 | |
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42
serene
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| adj. 安详的，宁静的，平静的 | |
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profundity
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| n.渊博；深奥，深刻 | |
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44
sojourn
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| v./n.旅居，寄居；逗留 | |
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45
fragrant
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| adj.芬香的，馥郁的，愉快的 | |
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landlady
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| n.女房东，女地主 | |
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cosmopolitan
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| adj.世界性的，全世界的，四海为家的，全球的 | |
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trifling
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| adj.微不足道的；没什么价值的 | |
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49
undertaking
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| n.保证，许诺，事业 | |
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quaint
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| adj.古雅的，离奇有趣的，奇怪的 | |
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51
artistic
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| adj.艺术(家)的，美术(家)的；善于艺术创作的 | |
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52
missionary
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| adj.教会的，传教(士)的；n.传教士 | |
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53
imposing
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| adj.使人难忘的，壮丽的，堂皇的，雄伟的 | |
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conspicuously
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| ad.明显地，惹人注目地 | |
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provincial
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| adj.省的，地方的；n．外省人，乡下人 | |
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patriotism
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| n.爱国精神，爱国心，爱国主义 | |
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emulation
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| n.竞争；仿效 | |
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58
monotonous
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| adj.单调的，一成不变的，使人厌倦的 | |
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59
scant
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| adj.不充分的，不足的；v.减缩，限制，忽略 | |
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dreary
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| adj.令人沮丧的，沉闷的，单调乏味的 | |
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61
tinkling
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| n.丁当作响声 | |
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diversified
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| adj.多样化的，多种经营的v.使多样化，多样化( diversify的过去式和过去分词 )；进入新的商业领域 | |
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scattered
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| adj.分散的，稀疏的；散步的；疏疏落落的 | |
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spire
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| n.(教堂)尖顶，尖塔，高点 | |
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ridges
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| n.脊( ridge的名词复数 )；山脊；脊状突起；大气层的)高压脊 | |
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maize
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| n.玉米 | |
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hemp
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| n.大麻；纤维 | |
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ornamental
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| adj.装饰的；作装饰用的；n.装饰品；观赏植物 | |
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plantations
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| n.种植园，大农场( plantation的名词复数 ) | |
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pedestrians
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| n.步行者( pedestrian的名词复数 ) | |
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limpid
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| adj.清澈的，透明的 | |
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velvety
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| adj. 像天鹅绒的, 轻软光滑的, 柔软的 | |
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glide
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| n./v.溜，滑行；(时间)消逝 | |
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sublimity
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| 崇高，庄严，气质高尚 | |
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solitude
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| n. 孤独; 独居,荒僻之地,幽静的地方 | |
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reigns
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| n.君主的统治( reign的名词复数 )；君主统治时期；任期；当政期 | |
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weirdest
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| 怪诞的( weird的最高级 )； 神秘而可怕的； 超然的； 古怪的 | |
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exquisite
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| adj.精美的；敏锐的；剧烈的，感觉强烈的 | |
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delightful
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| adj.令人高兴的，使人快乐的 | |
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enchantment
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| n.迷惑，妖术，魅力 | |
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climax
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| n.顶点；高潮；v.(使)达到顶点 | |
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glided
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| v.滑动( glide的过去式和过去分词 )；掠过；（鸟或飞机 ） 滑翔 | |
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behold
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| v.看，注视，看到 | |
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deafening
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| adj. 振耳欲聋的, 极喧闹的 动词deafen的现在分词形式 | |
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opportunely
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| adv.恰好地，适时地 | |
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Augmented
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| adj.增音的 动词augment的过去式和过去分词形式 | |
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eddy
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| n.漩涡，涡流 | |
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foam
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| v./n.泡沫，起泡沫 | |
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descended
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| a.为...后裔的，出身于...的 | |
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embarked
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| 乘船( embark的过去式和过去分词 )； 装载； 从事 | |
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entirely
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| ad.全部地，完整地；完全地，彻底地 | |
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hovering
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| 鸟( hover的现在分词 )； 靠近（某事物）； （人）徘徊； 犹豫 | |
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promontory
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| n.海角；岬 | |
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alas
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| int.唉(表示悲伤、忧愁、恐惧等) | |
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torrents
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| n.倾注；奔流( torrent的名词复数 )；急流；爆发；连续不断 | |
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reluctance
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| n.厌恶，讨厌，勉强，不情愿 | |
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leisurely
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| adj.悠闲的；从容的，慢慢的 | |
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specimen
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| n.样本，标本 | |
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literally
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| adv.照字面意义，逐字地；确实 | |
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bustle
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| v.喧扰地忙乱，匆忙，奔忙；n.忙碌；喧闹 | |
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animation
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| n.活泼，兴奋，卡通片／动画片的制作 | |
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bourgeois
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| adj./n.追求物质享受的(人)；中产阶级分子 | |
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costly
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| adj.昂贵的，价值高的，豪华的 | |
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eminence
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| n.卓越，显赫；高地，高处；名家 | |
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ascent
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| n.(声望或地位)提高；上升，升高；登高 | |
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friendliness
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| n.友谊，亲切，亲密 | |
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107
disinterestedness
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geniality
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| n.和蔼，诚恳；愉快 | |
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fatigue
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| n.疲劳，劳累 | |
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glades
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| n.林中空地( glade的名词复数 ) | |
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spires
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| n.（教堂的） 塔尖，尖顶( spire的名词复数 ) | |
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geographically
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| adv.地理学上，在地理上，地理方面 | |
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