Luxembourg means that portion of the Heart of Europe lying between the Meuse and the Moselle, and one line drawn8 from Limbourg to Trèves, another from Verdun to Metz. It is now a tithe9 of this, but who can say what may be in the future? All its great northern portion has for long been incorporated in the eternally honourable10 kingdom of Belgium, and there it will remain, but there is always the old Archbishopric of Trèves with its Moselle valley, and there are the lands along the Saar and the new (and old) frontiers of France. At present, as a result of three treaties in which it played the passive part of victim, it is a fourth the size it once had under its first Duke Wenceslas; the first section was lost in 1659, the second at the Congress of Vienna in 1815, the third and largest at London in 1859, but, as a Japanese guide remarked at the monastery12 of Horiuji, “The quality is not dependent on the numerality of quantity,” and as nothing was lost but land the indomitable spirit of the people remained intact and merely concentrated{298} itself still more intensely within its shrunken borders.
Luxembourg lies along that line where first the Teuton blended with the primitive13 Gaul, or Celt, and where a second mingling14 later took place between the result of the first—the Salian Frank—and the same old Teutonic stock. It is the mating-place of races and therefore the fighting-place as well, and always will remain so, as they and we now realise only too clearly. They were far enough apart, these Celts and Germans, to guarantee good progeny15. The Gaul was huge of stature16, blonde, long-haired, fond of fine clothes and golden chains. He was pastoral and agricultural, aristocratic in his social and political systems, incontinent, good-natured, quick-tempered, superstitious17, Druidical. The Teuton was red-haired, shaven except for a fierce top-knot, grim in his clothing, contemptuous of agriculture and of everything else except fighting; as a youth he wore an iron collar which could not be removed until he had killed his man. Politically he was ultra-democratic; socially, monogamous and chaste18; theologically, monotheistic. From the fusion19 of these two elements came the many tribes of Gallia Belgica, and in good time most of the{299} peoples of the Heart of Europe, of Flanders, Brabant, Luxembourg, Lorraine, the hither Rhineland, Champagne20, Burgundy, Picardy, Artois. Trèves, head city of the Treveri, was the natural capital and so it became under the C?sars when they had made their wilderness21 and called it peace.
It did not remain a wilderness long; presently came the pacific C?sars of a later day and the whole land became first the “kitchen-garden of Rome” and then the Newport of the Empire. Fine roads cut the forests in every direction, land was cleared, agriculture intensified22, so that shortly the whole region was a garden dotted with private parks and estates. Trèves was made a great city, with palaces, temples, baths, amphitheatres, the summer capital of Europe and second in Gaul only to Lyons. A city of manifold pleasures and as many beauties; rich, sumptuous23, sensuous24, where from the shores of Tiber and Bosporus enervated25 and exhausted26 devotees of the joy of living came to cool themselves and restore their vitality27 in the fresh air and the green river valleys of this curiously28 picturesque29 retreat. All along the Moselle rose gorgeous villas30 with their rooms of sheeted marble and mosaic31 and gilded32 cedar{300} and splendid fabrics33, their terraced gardens and cool groves34 and wide-spreading parks. A golden day-dream focussed along the windings36 of a little river and destined, the sleepers37 dreamed, to endure for ever.
And then the greater dream of empire began to turn into nightmare. The Gallic legions revolted against a weakening hand in Rome, and C?sars of a day and a thousand votes fought back and forth over the land, and burned and murdered and died until peace came again, and restoration, with real emperors refreshing38 themselves in their imperial city of Trèves and their dim forests on the hilly walls of the winding35 Moselle. War again, and ruin, this time of a nature to last for generations and to leave the marble villas to the slow but kindly39 burial of trees and vines and moss40. Out of the terrible east the Huns came like a flood with the deadly Attila at their head, blind terror before them, death and silence behind. Just to the west, at Chalons, they were beaten back and fled eastward41 again (men thought for ever), and what was left became part of the new Frankish kingdom. Of the makers42 of this nation and the stock from which sprang Merovings, Carolings, and most of the other royal houses of Europe, the Reverend T. H. Passmore writes engagingly thus:
The record of this people, until the close of the fifth century, is dim and discursive43. Up to that time they were more like a firework display than a people. They appear and disappear on the historic horizon confusingly, the only unifying44 condition being a general and most sacred sense of mission, the mission being the demolition45 of the universe. The first head upon which history steadily46 focusses its light is that of the great Clovis. He was lord of the small Salian tribe in Batavia and sacked and plundered47 all around him to such an extent that the other Frankish tribes who lived along the Belgic rivers were smitten48 with admiration49 and flocked to the standard of so virtuous50 a prince.... The pious51 Clovis was a born diplomatist. He was a sanguinary Teuton, a cultured Roman, and a Christian52 saint according to circumstances. He was great.
After clearing Gaul of the Burgundians and other Germans who still barred his progress, and wiping out the Alemanni—those chronic53 foes54 whom Rome had found invincible—Clovis listened to the prayers of his Christian wife, Clotilde, and was baptised in Rheims Cathedral by St. Remigius with three thousand of his devoted55 Franks, who would probably have heard of it again had they made any trouble about the matter. He does not seem, however, to have grown any nicer or kinder on this account. St. Gregory of Tours, his biographer and panegyrist, who was somewhat modestly endowed with the sense of humour, tells us gravely that on one occasion, after dismissing with prayer a synod of the Gallican Church, he quietly proceeded to butcher all the Merovingian princes. Having pushed his arms into France, he fixed56 on Paris as his royal seat; conquered the Goths under Alaric, his only remaining rivals; and was invested{302} with purple tunic57 in St. Martin’s church at Tours. Twenty-five years after his death the Emperor Justinian generously bestowed58 on his sons the provinces of Gaul, which they already possessed59; and most gracefully60 absolved61 its inhabitants from their allegiance to himself, which had only existed in his own august imagination. Thus the French kingdom of the Merovingians, to the generation succeeding Clovis, already included all Gaul from western France to the Rhine and their suzerainty reached to the Alps and beyond them.
Luxembourg had long been Christian after a fashion; the first Bishop11 of Trèves had been appointed by St. Peter himself, while the Emperor Constantine, who had lived much in the city, fostered the new religion in every way. Later, at the time of the era-making Pepin of Heristal, St. Willibrord came from England on his great mission to the heathen of Friesland, and while converting them, and much of Norway and Denmark to boot, established here at Echternach a great monastery that was his spiritual power-house, from which he drew the energy that sent him on his endless journeys and cruises, by land and sea, for the winning of souls to Christ. He did his work well, none better, and wherever he went Christianity went with him, and a new civilisation62, a new culture, that remained for many centuries after he had been called to his high reward,{303} buried in his dear abbey at Echternach and enrolled63 in the Kalendar of Saints.
It was a vast monastery and a magnificent one, but it is a monastery no longer; for centuries it continued to pour out from its inexhaustible Benedictine store, missionaries64, prophets, priests, leaders and protectors of the people; fostering education, agriculture, the arts; establishing order, nursing a piety65 that found its reward in this world through the consciousness of an ever-widening civilisation, and a greater reward in heaven. Then the power and wealth grew too great for the equanimity66 of princes, and it was robbed by one after another, oppressed by lay abbots in commendam, its Benedictine monks67 driven out and secular68 canons intruded69, and finally pillaged70 by recreant71 bishops72 of the new dispensation of humanism and enlightenment and by that concentration and apotheosis73 of the same, Le Roi Soleil, and so handed over to the emissaries of the deluge74 that followed him, the attractive exemplars of revolution, who swept the place clean of books and pictures and statues and all the hoarded75 art of a thousand years—yes, even of the poor ashes of the good saint himself—to make place a half century later for the ashes and{304} slag76 of blast-furnaces set up within the ancient walls, and for the housing of soldiers and their mounts.
Still, the work could not wholly be undone77, Luxembourg was a Christian state and so it remained, through fair days and foul78, the fairest being perhaps those when, united to Flanders and Brabant under the Emperor Maximilian, it fell into the charge of that great lady and unofficial saint, Margaret “of Malines,” whose story I have tried to tell elsewhere.
With the wars of religion this peace and prosperity came to an end and for two hundred years all the duchy was devastated79 by all the armies of Europe, from those of Francis I to the obscene hordes80 of the French Republic. It had never revolted against the Catholic religion nor against its varied81 rulers, and its reward was a slow and savage82 extermination83. Cities were burned and their names forgotten; great abbeys and churches like those of Orval and Clairefontaine were utterly84 extinguished; tall castles that crowned every height of land were blown up with gunpowder85; fields and farms became waste land; and through starvation, massacre86, and exile the population was reduced to a tithe of its former numbers, and{305} at last, by the republic that came to bring liberty, taxed into an all-engulfing penury87.
The era of enlightenment had not been wholly happy in its action on Luxembourg, but it was free at last, and, in 1867, independent, as it remained until that memorable88 day in August, 1914, the day of broken treaties, when the little Grand Duchess backed her motor-car across the bridge, closing it with a pathetic barrier in the vain protest of honour against a force that did not recognise the meaning of the word or the existence of the thing it signified.
Luxembourg to-day is not a place where one may go to revel89 in the artistic90 memorials of a great past; the great past is there, and its memory is still green, but even more than Brabant or Champagne has it borne the grievous harrowing of endless wars and recrudescent barbarisms, not the least destructive of these visitations being the nineteenth century in its satisfying completeness, which saw many an abbey and old haunted castle dismantled91, reduced to road-metal, and carted away for the value inherent in its raw material, or turned to inconceivably base uses from all of which some pecuniary92 profit might be obtained. Once it was as rich in enormous castles{306} as any country in the world that happily has a medi?val past. Bourscheid on its great hill, lordly and dominating still and a wilderness of vast crags of masonry93, in spite of all that man could do; Brandenbourg, rigid94 and riven in its ring of mountains; Esch, split into towering and sundered95 fragments on the raw cliffs overhanging the S?re; Hollenfel, Clervaux, spared by war to fall victim to the contemptuous neglect of owners who preferred pseudo-Gothic villas with all modern conveniences; Beaufort, with its noble proportions and its beauty of a later and more gracious medi?valism; Vianden, most fascinating of all with its dizzy gables, and its chapel96 still intact in spite of the wide ruin of its surroundings. And every castle ruin is haunted to heart’s desire, crowded with attested97 ghosts whose consistent habits and dependable visitations are a peculiar98 joy in a world that until a twelvemonth ago could not believe in the impossible and promptly99 discounted the improbable. Any peasant in Luxembourg knew better, and not only the ruins but the whole duchy is honeycombed by the midnight prowlings of an entire population of delectable100 phantoms101, while the stories and legends of their commerce in the past with lords and ladies and{307} knights102 and monks and bishops form a literature in themselves.
In spite of its losses, the land was one of infinite and unfamiliar103 charm; a land of wide and high plateaus cut by many winding river courses, each a possible journey of varying delights. Our and S?re and Black Erenz; Alzette and Clerf and White Erenz, with many others of minor104 flow, cut the duchy in every direction, all at last finding the goal of their waters in the magical Moselle, as it flows past old Roman Trèves on its devious105 way to the Rhine. And it was a kind of little earthly paradise as well, for the fifty years of its well-earned peace. A land of farms and gardens and pastures, of contented106 little villages and river-bordered hamlets, and a kindly and devoted people. Coal and iron have left little mark, though the efficient Baedeker (to whom shall we go for guidance on our journeys in the long days to come?), in one of his concise107 and unpremeditately dramatic paragraphs does say: “18? M. Weilerbach, for the iron-foundry of Weilerbach and the former summer-house of the Abbots of Echternach, magnificently situated108 amidst wood”—an antithesis109 of startling illumination. Protestantism passed it by, except for purposes of plun{308}der, and it has always been unanimously and enthusiastically Catholic, with a record for public and private morality that puts any and every other part of Europe to sudden shame.
What is to be its future when the great storm that is cleaning the soiled world of its dust and ashes of false ideals and burnt-out superstitions110 sweeps away into the hollows of a night that is only in its darkness the promise of a new day? Who shall say? but any one can weave his vision, and to some it already appears that, with the meting111 out of inadequate112 earthly reward for irreparable bodily suffering, will come the lands to the east as far as the Kyll, with to the south Saarbourg, and the far side of the Moselle to the Hochwald, including ancient Trèves, no longer a forgotten relic113 of an old imperialism114 but a greater and better and more potent115 Hague, a central city of Europe and of peace, where, under the united guarantees of all the states, is permanently116 sitting a great council of ambassadors for the devising of measures of common interest, the adjustment of international differences, the preservation117 of a righteous peace between nations, and with authority to suppress any violation118 of treaties or any wilful119 aggression120 of one state against another,{309} by calling into the field against the offender121 all the military and naval122 forces of all the other powers signatory to an European Treaty of Permanent Peace and represented in the council of ambassadors.
Or perhaps Trèves, with surrounding territory within a five-mile radius123, might be erected124 into an international city of council, surrounded by Luxembourg, Belgium, which may be extended to the Moselle and eastward half-way to the Rhine, France, the new frontiers of which would be the old eastern borders of Alsace and Lorraine, and a restored Palatinate limited to the north and east by the Rhine and the Moselle. Central in this circle of guarding states, with all Europe for added defence against any possible recrudescence of local egoism in any place, Trèves might again become a great city of refuge and of Christian righteousness, with noble buildings on its circle of surrounding hills, a centre of religion and education and mercy, guardian125 of the peace of Europe, a living and glorious symbol of the world enlightenment that came through the clean purging126 of a war greater than all former wars because the need was greater.
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1
fatality
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| n.不幸，灾祸，天命 | |
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remains
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| n.剩余物，残留物；遗体，遗迹 | |
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amorphous
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| adj.无定形的 | |
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imprisoned
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| 下狱，监禁( imprison的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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forth
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| adv.向前；向外，往外 | |
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destined
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| adj.命中注定的；(for)以…为目的地的 | |
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triumphant
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| adj.胜利的，成功的；狂欢的，喜悦的 | |
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drawn
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| v.拖，拉，拔出；adj.憔悴的，紧张的 | |
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tithe
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| n.十分之一税；v.课什一税，缴什一税 | |
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honourable
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| adj.可敬的；荣誉的，光荣的 | |
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bishop
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| n.主教，（国际象棋）象 | |
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monastery
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| n.修道院，僧院，寺院 | |
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primitive
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| adj.原始的；简单的；n.原(始)人，原始事物 | |
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mingling
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| adj.混合的 | |
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progeny
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| n.后代，子孙；结果 | |
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stature
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| n.（高度）水平，（高度）境界，身高，身材 | |
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superstitious
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| adj.迷信的 | |
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chaste
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| adj.贞洁的；有道德的；善良的；简朴的 | |
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fusion
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| n.溶化；熔解；熔化状态，熔和；熔接 | |
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champagne
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| n.香槟酒；微黄色 | |
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wilderness
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| n.杳无人烟的一片陆地、水等，荒漠 | |
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intensified
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| v.（使）增强， （使）加剧( intensify的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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sumptuous
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| adj.豪华的，奢侈的，华丽的 | |
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sensuous
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| adj.激发美感的；感官的，感觉上的 | |
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enervated
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| adj.衰弱的，无力的v.使衰弱，使失去活力( enervate的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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exhausted
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| adj.极其疲惫的，精疲力尽的 | |
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vitality
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| n.活力，生命力，效力 | |
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curiously
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| adv.有求知欲地；好问地；奇特地 | |
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picturesque
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| adj.美丽如画的，（语言）生动的，绘声绘色的 | |
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villas
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| 别墅，公馆( villa的名词复数 )； （城郊）住宅 | |
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mosaic
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| n./adj.镶嵌细工的，镶嵌工艺品的，嵌花式的 | |
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gilded
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| a.镀金的，富有的 | |
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fabrics
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| 织物( fabric的名词复数 )； 布； 构造； （建筑物的）结构（如墙、地面、屋顶）：质地 | |
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groves
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| 树丛，小树林( grove的名词复数 ) | |
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winding
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| n.绕，缠，绕组，线圈 | |
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windings
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| （道路、河流等）蜿蜒的，弯曲的( winding的名词复数 )； 缠绕( wind的现在分词 )； 卷绕； 转动（把手） | |
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sleepers
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| n.卧铺（通常以复数形式出现）；卧车( sleeper的名词复数 )；轨枕；睡觉（呈某种状态）的人；小耳环 | |
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refreshing
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| adj.使精神振作的，使人清爽的，使人喜欢的 | |
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kindly
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| adj.和蔼的，温和的，爽快的；adv.温和地，亲切地 | |
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moss
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| n.苔，藓，地衣 | |
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eastward
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| adv.向东；adj.向东的；n.东方，东部 | |
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makers
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| n.制造者，制造商（maker的复数形式） | |
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discursive
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| adj.离题的，无层次的 | |
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unifying
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| 使联合( unify的现在分词 )； 使相同； 使一致； 统一 | |
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demolition
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| n.破坏,毁坏,毁坏之遗迹 | |
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steadily
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| adv.稳定地；不变地；持续地 | |
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plundered
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| 掠夺，抢劫( plunder的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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smitten
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| 猛打，重击，打击( smite的过去分词 ) | |
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admiration
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| n.钦佩，赞美，羡慕 | |
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virtuous
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| adj.有品德的，善良的，贞洁的，有效力的 | |
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pious
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| adj.虔诚的；道貌岸然的 | |
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Christian
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| adj.基督教徒的；n.基督教徒 | |
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chronic
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| adj.(疾病)长期未愈的，慢性的；极坏的 | |
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foes
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| 敌人，仇敌( foe的名词复数 ) | |
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devoted
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| adj.忠诚的，忠实的，热心的，献身于...的 | |
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fixed
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| adj.固定的，不变的，准备好的；(计算机)固定的 | |
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tunic
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| n.束腰外衣 | |
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bestowed
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| 赠给，授予( bestow的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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possessed
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| adj.疯狂的；拥有的，占有的 | |
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gracefully
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| ad.大大方方地；优美地 | |
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absolved
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| 宣告…无罪，赦免…的罪行，宽恕…的罪行( absolve的过去式和过去分词 )； 不受责难，免除责任 [义务] ,开脱（罪责） | |
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civilisation
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| n.文明，文化，开化，教化 | |
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enrolled
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| adj.入学登记了的v.[亦作enrol]( enroll的过去式和过去分词 )；登记，招收，使入伍（或入会、入学等），参加，成为成员；记入名册；卷起，包起 | |
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missionaries
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| n.传教士( missionary的名词复数 ) | |
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piety
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| n.虔诚，虔敬 | |
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equanimity
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| n.沉着，镇定 | |
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monks
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| n.修道士，僧侣( monk的名词复数 ) | |
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secular
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| n.牧师，凡人；adj.世俗的，现世的，不朽的 | |
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intruded
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| n.侵入的，推进的v.侵入，侵扰，打扰( intrude的过去式和过去分词 )；把…强加于 | |
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70
pillaged
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| v.抢劫，掠夺( pillage的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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71
recreant
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| n.懦夫；adj.胆怯的 | |
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72
bishops
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| （基督教某些教派管辖大教区的）主教( bishop的名词复数 )； （国际象棋的）象 | |
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73
apotheosis
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| n.神圣之理想；美化；颂扬 | |
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74
deluge
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| n./vt.洪水，暴雨，使泛滥 | |
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75
hoarded
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| v.积蓄并储藏（某物）( hoard的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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76
slag
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| n.熔渣，铁屑，矿渣；v.使变成熔渣，变熔渣 | |
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77
undone
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| a.未做完的，未完成的 | |
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78
foul
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| adj.污秽的；邪恶的；v.弄脏；妨害；犯规；n.犯规 | |
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79
devastated
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| v.彻底破坏( devastate的过去式和过去分词)；摧毁；毁灭；在感情上（精神上、财务上等）压垮adj.毁坏的；极为震惊的 | |
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80
hordes
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| n.移动着的一大群( horde的名词复数 )；部落 | |
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81
varied
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| adj.多样的，多变化的 | |
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82
savage
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| adj.野蛮的；凶恶的，残暴的；n.未开化的人 | |
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83
extermination
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| n.消灭，根绝 | |
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84
utterly
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| adv.完全地，绝对地 | |
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85
gunpowder
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| n.火药 | |
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86
massacre
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| n.残杀，大屠杀；v.残杀，集体屠杀 | |
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87
penury
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| n.贫穷，拮据 | |
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88
memorable
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| adj.值得回忆的，难忘的，特别的，显著的 | |
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89
revel
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| vi.狂欢作乐，陶醉；n.作乐，狂欢 | |
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90
artistic
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| adj.艺术(家)的，美术(家)的；善于艺术创作的 | |
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91
dismantled
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| 拆开( dismantle的过去式和过去分词 )； 拆卸； 废除； 取消 | |
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92
pecuniary
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| adj.金钱的；金钱上的 | |
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93
masonry
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| n.砖土建筑；砖石 | |
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94
rigid
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| adj.严格的，死板的；刚硬的，僵硬的 | |
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95
sundered
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| v.隔开，分开( sunder的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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96
chapel
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| n.小教堂，殡仪馆 | |
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97
attested
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| adj.经检验证明无病的，经检验证明无菌的v.证明( attest的过去式和过去分词 )；证实；声称…属实；使宣誓 | |
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98
peculiar
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| adj.古怪的，异常的；特殊的，特有的 | |
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99
promptly
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| adv.及时地，敏捷地 | |
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100
delectable
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| adj.使人愉快的；美味的 | |
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101
phantoms
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| n.鬼怪，幽灵( phantom的名词复数 ) | |
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102
knights
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| 骑士； （中古时代的）武士( knight的名词复数 )； 骑士； 爵士； （国际象棋中）马 | |
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103
unfamiliar
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| adj.陌生的，不熟悉的 | |
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104
minor
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| adj.较小(少)的，较次要的；n.辅修学科；vi.辅修 | |
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105
devious
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| adj.不坦率的，狡猾的；迂回的，曲折的 | |
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106
contented
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| adj.满意的，安心的，知足的 | |
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107
concise
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| adj.简洁的，简明的 | |
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108
situated
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| adj.坐落在...的，处于某种境地的 | |
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109
antithesis
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| n.对立；相对 | |
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110
superstitions
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| 迷信，迷信行为( superstition的名词复数 ) | |
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111
meting
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| v.（对某人）施以，给予（处罚等）( mete的现在分词 ) | |
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112
inadequate
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| adj.(for,to)不充足的，不适当的 | |
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113
relic
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| n.神圣的遗物，遗迹，纪念物 | |
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114
imperialism
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| n.帝国主义，帝国主义政策 | |
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115
potent
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| adj.强有力的，有权势的；有效力的 | |
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116
permanently
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| adv.永恒地，永久地，固定不变地 | |
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117
preservation
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| n.保护，维护，保存，保留，保持 | |
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118
violation
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| n.违反(行为)，违背(行为)，侵犯 | |
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119
wilful
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| adj.任性的，故意的 | |
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120
aggression
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| n.进攻，侵略，侵犯，侵害 | |
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121
offender
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| n.冒犯者，违反者，犯罪者 | |
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122
naval
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| adj.海军的，军舰的，船的 | |
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123
radius
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| n.半径，半径范围；有效航程，范围，界限 | |
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124
ERECTED
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| adj. 直立的，竖立的，笔直的 vt. 使 ... 直立，建立 | |
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125
guardian
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| n.监护人；守卫者，保护者 | |
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126
purging
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| 清洗； 清除； 净化； 洗炉 | |
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