The narrow Alpine1 zone of peaks and snow that forms the crest2 of the Rocky Mountains has its own individual elemental moods, its characteristic winds, its electrical and other peculiarities3, and a climate of its own. Commonly its days are serene5 and sunny, but from time to time it has hail and snow and showers of wind-blown rain, cold as ice-water. It is subject to violent changes from clear, calm air to blizzard6.
I have enjoyed these strange, silent heights in every season of the year. In climbing scores of these peaks, in crossing the passes, often on snowshoes, and in camping here and there on the skyline, I have encountered these climatic changes and had numerous strange experiences. From these experiences I realize that the transcontinental aviator8, with this realm of peak and sky, will have some delightful9 as well as serious surprises. He will encounter stern conditions.[Pg 72] He may, like a storm-defying bird, be carried from his course by treacherous10 currents and battle with breakers or struggle in vain in the monstrous11, invisible maelstroms that beset12 this ocean of air. Of these skyline factors the more imposing13 are wind, cold, clouds, rain, snow, and subtle, capricious electricity.
High winds are common across the summits of these mountains; and they are most prevalent in winter. Those of summer, though less frequent and much more short-lived, are a menace on account of their fury and the suddenness with which they surprise and sweep the heights.
Early one summer, while exploring a wide alpine moorland above the timber-line, I—and some others—had an experience with one of those sudden stormbursts. The region was utterly15 wild, but up to it straggling tourists occasionally rode for a view of the surrounding mountain world. All alone, I was studying the ways of the wild inhabitants of the heights. I had spent the calm, sunny morning in watching a solitary16 bighorn that was feeding among some boulders18. He was aged19, and he ate as though his[Pg 73] teeth were poor and walked as though afflicted20 with rheumatism21. Suddenly this patriarch forgot his age and fled precipitately22, with almost the speed of frightened youth. I leaped upon a boulder17 to watch him, but was instantly knocked headlong by a wild blast of wind. In falling I caught sight of a straw hat and a wrecked24 umbrella falling out of the sky. Rising amid the pelting25 gale26 of flung hail, ice-water, and snow, I pushed my way in the teeth of the storm, hoping for shelter in the lee of a rock-pile about a hundred yards distant. A lady's disheveled hat blew by me, and with the howl of the wind came, almost drowned, excited human utterances27. Nearing the rock-pile, I caught a vague view of a merry-go-round of man and horse, then a glimpse of the last gyration28, in which an elderly Eastern gentleman parted company with a stampeded bronco.
Five tourists had ridden up in the sunshine to enjoy the heights, and the suddenness and fierceness of the storm had thrown them into a panic and stampeded their horses. They were drenched29 and severely30 chilled, and they were[Pg 74] frightened. I made haste to tell them that the storm would be brief. While I was still trying to reassure31 them, the clouds commenced to dissolve and the sun came out. Presently all were watching the majestic32 soaring of two eagles up in the blue, while I went off to collect five scattered33 saddle-ponies that were contentedly34 feeding far away on the moor14.
Though the winter winds are of slower development, they are more prolonged and are tempestuously36 powerful. Occasionally these winds blow for days; and where they follow a fall of snow they blow and whirl this about so wildly that the air is befogged for several hundred feet above the earth. So violently and thickly is the powdered snow flung about that a few minutes at a time is the longest that one can see or breathe in it. These high winter winds come out of the west in a deep, broad stratum37 that is far above most of the surface over which they blow. Commonly a high wind strikes the western slope of the Continental7 Divide a little below the altitude of eleven thousand feet. This striking throws it into fierce confusion. It rolls[Pg 75] whirling up the steeps and frequently shoots far above the highest peaks. Across the passes it sweeps, roars down the ca?ons on the eastern slope, and rushes out across the plains. Though the western slope below eleven thousand feet is a calm zone, the entire eastern slope is being whipped and scourged38 by a flood of wind. Occasionally the temperature of these winds is warm.
These swift, insistent39 winds, torn, intercepted40, and deflected41 by dashing against the broken skyline, produce currents, counter-currents, sleepy eddies42, violent vertical43 whirls, and milling maelstroms that are tilted44 at every angle. In places there is a gale blowing upward, and here and there the air pours heavily down in an invisible but almost crushing air-fall.
One winter I placed an air-meter in Granite45 Pass, at twelve thousand feet altitude on the slope of Long's Peak. During the first high wind I fought my way up to read what the meter said. Both the meter and myself found the wind exceeded the speed limit. Emerging above the trees at timber-line, I had to face the un[Pg 76]broken fury of the gale as it swept down the slope from the heights above. The region was barren of snow. The wind dashed me with sandblasts and pelted46 me with gravel47 volleys that were almost unbearable48. My face and wrists were bruised49, and blood was drawn51 in many places where the gravel struck.
WIND-BLOWN TREES AT TIMBER-LINE WIND-BLOWN TREES AT TIMBER-LINE
Seeking rest and shelter from this persistent52 punishment, I approached a crag and when only a few yards away was struck and overturned by the milling air-current around it. The air was so agitated53 around this crag that its churnings followed me, like disturbed water, under and behind the large rock-fragments, where shelter was hoped for but only partly secured.
On the last slope below the meter the wind simply played with me. I was overthrown54, tripped, knocked down, blown explosively off my feet and dropped. Sometimes the wind dropped me heavily, but just as often it eased me down. I made no attempt to stand erect55; most of the time this was impossible and at all times it was very dangerous. Now and then the wind rolled me as I lay resting upon a smooth [Pg 77] place. Advancing was akin56 to swimming a whirlpool or to wrestling one's way up a slope despite the ceaseless opposition57 of a vigorous, tireless opponent.
At last I crawled and climbed up to the buzzing cups of the meter. So swiftly were they rotating they formed a blurred58 circle, like a fast-revolving life-preserver. The meter showed that the wind was passing with a speed of from one hundred and sixty-five to one hundred and seventy miles an hour. The meter blew up—or, rather, flew to pieces—during a swifter spurt59.
The wind so loudly ripped and roared round the top of the peak that I determined60 to scale the summit and experience its wildest and most eloquent61 efforts. All my strength and climbing knowledge were required to prevent my being literally62 blown out of converging63 rock channels through which the wind gushed64; again and again I clung with all my might to avoid being torn from the ledges65. Fortunately not a bruise50 was received, though many times this was narrowly avoided.[Pg 78]
The top of the peak, an area of between three and four acres and comparatively level, was in an easy eddy66, almost a calm when compared with the wind's activities below and near by. Apparently67 the wind-current collided so forcefully with the western wall of the peak that it was thrown far above the summit before recovering to continue its way eastward69; but against the resisting spurs and pinnacles70 a little below summit-level the wind roared, boomed, and crashed in its determined, passionate71 onsweep.
The better to hear this grand uproar72, I advanced to the western edge of the summit. Here my hat was torn off, but not quite grasped, by the upshooting blast. It fell into the swirl73 above the summit and in large circles floated upward at slow speed, rising directly above the top of the peak. It rose and circled so slowly that I threw several stones at it, trying to knock it down before it rose out of range. The diameter of the circle through which it floated was about one hundred and fifty feet; when it had risen five, or perhaps six, hundred feet above the summit it suddenly tumbled over and over as[Pg 79] though about to fall, but instead of falling it sailed off toward the east as though a carrier pigeon hurrying for a known and definite place in the horizon.
Some of the gulf-streams, hell-gates, whirlpools, rough channels, and dangerous tides in the sea of air either are in fixed74 places or adjust themselves to winds from a different quarter so definitely that their location can be told by considering them in connection with the direction of the wind. Thus the sea of air may be partly charted and the position of some of its dangerous places, even in mountain-top oceans, positively75 known.
However, there are dangerous mountain-top winds of one kind, or, more properly, numerous local air-blasts, that are sometimes created within these high winds, that do not appear to have any habits. It would be easier to tell where the next thunderbolt would fall than where the next one of these would explode. One of these might be called a cannon76 wind. An old prospector77, who had experienced countless78 high winds among the crags, once stated that high,[Pg 80] gusty79 winds on mountain-slopes "sometimes shoot off a cannon." These explosive blasts touch only a short, narrow space, but in this they are almost irresistible80.
Isolated81 clouds often soften82 and beautify the stern heights as they silently float and drift among peaks and passes. Flocks of these sky birds frequently float about together. On sunny days, in addition to giving a charm to the peaks, their restless shadows never tire of readjusting themselves and are ever trying to find a foundation or a place of rest upon the tempestuous35 topography of the heights below. Now and then a deep, dense83 cloud-stratum will cover the crests84 and envelop85 the summit slopes for days. These vapory strata86 usually feel but little wind and they vary in thickness from a few hundred to a few thousand feet. Sometimes one of these rests so serenely87 that it suggests an aggregation88 of clouds pushed off to one side because temporarily the sky does not need them elsewhere for either decorative89 or precipitative purposes. Now and then they do drop rain or snow, but most of the time they appear to be in a procrastinating[Pg 81] mood and unable to decide whether to precipitate23 or to move on.
Commonly the upper surfaces of cloud-strata appear like a peaceful silver-gray sea. They appear woolly and sometimes fluffy90, level, and often so vast that they sweep away beyond the horizon. Peaks and ridges91 often pierce their interminable surface with romantic continents and islands; along their romantic shores, above the surface of the picturesque93 sea, the airship could sail in safe poetic94 flight, though the foggy depths below were too dense for any traveler to penetrate95.
One spring the snow fell continuously around my cabin for three days. Reports told that the storm was general over the Rocky Mountain region. Later investigations96 showed that that cloud and storm were spread over a quarter of a million square miles. Over this entire area there was made a comparatively even deposit of thirty inches of snow.
All over the area, the bottom, or under surface, of the cloud was at an altitude of approximately nine thousand feet. My cabin, with an[Pg 82] altitude of nine thousand, was immersed in cloud, though at times it was one hundred feet or so below it. Fully68 satisfied of the widespread and general nature of the storm, and convinced of the comparatively level line of the bottom surface of the cloud, I determined to measure its vertical depth and observe its slow movements by climbing above its silver lining97. This was the third day of the storm. On snowshoes up the mountainside I went through this almost opaque98 sheep's-wool cloud. It was not bitterly cold, but cloud and snow combined were blinding, and only a ravine and instinct enabled me to make my way.
At an altitude of about twelve thousand feet the depth of the snow became suddenly less, soon falling to only an inch or so. Within a few rods of where it began to grow shallow I burst through the upper surface of the cloud. Around me and above there was not a flake99 of snow. Over the entire storm-area of a quarter of a million square miles, all heights above twelve thousand had escaped both cloud and snow. The cloud, which thus lay between the altitudes[Pg 83] of nine thousand and twelve thousand feet, was three thousand feet deep.
When I rose above the surface of this sea the sun was shining upon it. It was a smooth sea; not a breath of wind ruffled100 it. The top of Long's Peak rose bald and broken above. Climbing to the top of a commanding ridge92, I long watched this beautiful expanse of cloud and could scarcely realize that it was steadily101 flinging multitudes of snowflakes upon slopes and snows below. Though practically stationary102, this cloud expanse had some slight movements. These were somewhat akin to those of a huge raft that is becalmed in a quiet harbor. Slowly, easily, and almost imperceptibly the entire mass slid forward along the mountains; it moved but a short distance, paused for some minutes, then slowly slid back a trifle farther than it had advanced. After a brief stop the entire mass, as though anchored in the centre, started to swing in an easy, deliberate rotation103; after a few degrees of movement it paused, hesitated, then swung with slow, heavy movement back. In addition to these shifting horizontal motions[Pg 84] there was a short vertical one. The entire mass slowly sank and settled two or three hundred feet, then, with scarcely a pause, rose easily to the level from which it sank. Only once did it rise above this level.
During all seasons of the year there are oft-recurring periods when the mountains sit in sunshine and all the winds are still. In days of this kind the transcontinental passengers in glass-bottomed airships would have a bird's-eye view of sublime104 scenes. The purple forests, the embowered, peaceful parks, the drifted snows, the streams that fold and shine through the forests,—all these combine and cover magnificently the billowed and broken distances, while ever floating up from below are the soft, ebbing105, and intermittent106 songs from white water that leaps in glory.
Though the summits of the Rocky Mountains are always cool, it is only in rare, brief times that they fall within the frigid107 spell of Farthest North and become cruelly cold. The climate among these mountain-tops is much milder than people far away imagine.[Pg 85]
The electrical effects that enliven and sometimes illuminate108 these summits are peculiar4 and often highly interesting. Thunderbolts—lightning-strokes—are rare, far less frequent than in most lowland districts. However, when lightning does strike the heights, it appears to have many times the force that is displayed in lowland strokes. My conclusions concerning the infrequency of thunderbolts on these sky-piercing peaks are drawn chiefly from my own experience. I have stood through storms upon more than a score of Rocky Mountain summits that were upward of fourteen thousand feet above the tides. Only one of these peaks was struck; this was Long's Peak, which rises to the height of 14,256 feet above the sea.
Seventy storms I have experienced on the summit of this peak, and during these it was struck but three times to my knowledge. One of these strokes fell a thousand feet below the top; two struck the same spot on the edge of the summit. The rock struck was granite, and the effects of the strokes were similar; hundreds of pounds of shattered rock fragments were flung[Pg 86] horizontally afar. Out of scores of experiences in rain-drenched passes I have record of but two thunderbolts. Both of these were heavy. In all these instances the thunderbolt descended109 at a time when the storm-cloud was a few hundred feet above the place struck.
During the greater number of high-altitude storms the cloud is in contact with the surface or but little removed from it. Never have I known the lightning to strike when the clouds were close to the surface or touching110 it. It is, however, common, during times of low-dragging clouds, for the surface air to be heavily charged with electrical fluid. This often is accompanied with strange effects. Prominent among these is a low pulsating111 hum or an intermittent buz-z-z-z, with now and then a sharp zit-zit! Sometimes accompanying, at other times only briefly112 breaking in, are subdued113 camp-fire cracklings and roarings. Falling snowflakes, during these times, are occasionally briefly luminous114, like fireflies, the instant they touch the earth. Hair-pulling is the commonest effect that people experience in these sizzling electrical[Pg 87] storms. There is a straightening of the hairs and apparently a sharp pull upon each. As John Muir has it, "You are sure to be lost in wonder and praise and every hair of your head will stand up and hum and sing like an enthusiastic congregation." Most people take very gravely their first experience of this kind; especially when accompanied, as it often is, with apparent near-by bee-buzzings and a purplish roll or halo around the head. During these times a sudden finger movement will produce a crackling snap or spark.
On rare occasions these interesting peculiarities become irritating and sometimes serious to one. In "A Watcher on the Heights," in "Wild Life on the Rockies," I have described a case of this kind. A few people suffer from a muscular cramp115 or spasm116, and occasionally the muscles are so tensed that breathing becomes difficult and heart-action disturbed. I have never known an electrical storm to be fatal. Relief from the effects of such a storm may generally be had by lying between big stones or beneath shelving rocks. On one occasion I saw two[Pg 88] ladies and four gentlemen lay dignity aside and obtain relief by jamming into a place barely large enough for two. In my own case, activity invariably intensified117 these effects; and the touching of steel or iron often had the same results. For some years a family resided upon the slope of Mt. Teller118, at an altitude of twelve thousand feet. Commonly during storms the stove and pipe were charged with fluid so heavily that it was a case of hands off and let dinner wait, and sometimes spoil, until the heavens shut off the current.
The sustaining buoyancy of the air to aerial things decreases with altitude. In this "light" air some motor machinery119 is less efficient than it is in the lowlands. It is probable that aviators120 will always find the air around uplifted peaks much less serviceable than this element upon the surface of the sea. But known and unknown dangers in the air will be mastered, and ere long the dangers to those who take flight through the air will be no greater than the dangers to those who go down to the sea in ships. Flying across the crest of the continent, above[Pg 89] the crags and ca?ons, will be enchanting121, and this journey through the upper air may bring to many the first stirring message from the rocks and templed hills.
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1
alpine
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adj.高山的;n.高山植物 | |
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2
crest
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n.顶点;饰章;羽冠;vt.达到顶点;vi.形成浪尖 | |
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peculiarities
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n. 特质, 特性, 怪癖, 古怪 | |
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peculiar
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adj.古怪的,异常的;特殊的,特有的 | |
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5
serene
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adj. 安详的,宁静的,平静的 | |
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blizzard
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n.暴风雪 | |
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continental
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adj.大陆的,大陆性的,欧洲大陆的 | |
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aviator
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n.飞行家,飞行员 | |
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9
delightful
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adj.令人高兴的,使人快乐的 | |
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treacherous
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adj.不可靠的,有暗藏的危险的;adj.背叛的,背信弃义的 | |
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monstrous
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adj.巨大的;恐怖的;可耻的,丢脸的 | |
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12
beset
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v.镶嵌;困扰,包围 | |
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imposing
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adj.使人难忘的,壮丽的,堂皇的,雄伟的 | |
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moor
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n.荒野,沼泽;vt.(使)停泊;vi.停泊 | |
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15
utterly
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adv.完全地,绝对地 | |
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solitary
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adj.孤独的,独立的,荒凉的;n.隐士 | |
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17
boulder
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n.巨砾;卵石,圆石 | |
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boulders
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n.卵石( boulder的名词复数 );巨砾;(受水或天气侵蚀而成的)巨石;漂砾 | |
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19
aged
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adj.年老的,陈年的 | |
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afflicted
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使受痛苦,折磨( afflict的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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21
rheumatism
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n.风湿病 | |
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22
precipitately
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adv.猛进地 | |
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23
precipitate
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adj.突如其来的;vt.使突然发生;n.沉淀物 | |
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24
wrecked
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adj.失事的,遇难的 | |
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pelting
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微不足道的,无价值的,盛怒的 | |
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26
gale
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n.大风,强风,一阵闹声(尤指笑声等) | |
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27
utterances
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n.发声( utterance的名词复数 );说话方式;语调;言论 | |
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gyration
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n.旋转 | |
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29
drenched
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adj.湿透的;充满的v.使湿透( drench的过去式和过去分词 );在某人(某物)上大量使用(某液体) | |
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severely
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adv.严格地;严厉地;非常恶劣地 | |
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reassure
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v.使放心,使消除疑虑 | |
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majestic
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adj.雄伟的,壮丽的,庄严的,威严的,崇高的 | |
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scattered
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adj.分散的,稀疏的;散步的;疏疏落落的 | |
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contentedly
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adv.心满意足地 | |
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tempestuous
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adj.狂暴的 | |
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tempestuously
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adv.剧烈地,暴风雨似地 | |
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stratum
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n.地层,社会阶层 | |
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scourged
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鞭打( scourge的过去式和过去分词 ); 惩罚,压迫 | |
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insistent
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adj.迫切的,坚持的 | |
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intercepted
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拦截( intercept的过去式和过去分词 ); 截住; 截击; 拦阻 | |
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deflected
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偏离的 | |
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eddies
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(水、烟等的)漩涡,涡流( eddy的名词复数 ) | |
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vertical
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adj.垂直的,顶点的,纵向的;n.垂直物,垂直的位置 | |
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tilted
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v. 倾斜的 | |
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45
granite
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adj.花岗岩,花岗石 | |
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46
pelted
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(连续地)投掷( pelt的过去式和过去分词 ); 连续抨击; 攻击; 剥去…的皮 | |
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gravel
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n.砂跞;砂砾层;结石 | |
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unbearable
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adj.不能容忍的;忍受不住的 | |
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bruised
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[医]青肿的,瘀紫的 | |
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50
bruise
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n.青肿,挫伤;伤痕;vt.打青;挫伤 | |
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51
drawn
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v.拖,拉,拔出;adj.憔悴的,紧张的 | |
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52
persistent
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adj.坚持不懈的,执意的;持续的 | |
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agitated
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adj.被鼓动的,不安的 | |
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54
overthrown
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adj. 打翻的,推倒的,倾覆的 动词overthrow的过去分词 | |
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55
erect
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n./v.树立,建立,使竖立;adj.直立的,垂直的 | |
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56
akin
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adj.同族的,类似的 | |
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opposition
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n.反对,敌对 | |
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58
blurred
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v.(使)变模糊( blur的过去式和过去分词 );(使)难以区分;模模糊糊;迷离 | |
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spurt
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v.喷出;突然进发;突然兴隆 | |
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determined
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adj.坚定的;有决心的 | |
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eloquent
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adj.雄辩的,口才流利的;明白显示出的 | |
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literally
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adv.照字面意义,逐字地;确实 | |
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63
converging
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adj.收敛[缩]的,会聚的,趋同的v.(线条、运动的物体等)会于一点( converge的现在分词 );(趋于)相似或相同;人或车辆汇集;聚集 | |
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64
gushed
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v.喷,涌( gush的过去式和过去分词 );滔滔不绝地说话 | |
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ledges
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n.(墙壁,悬崖等)突出的狭长部分( ledge的名词复数 );(平窄的)壁架;横档;(尤指)窗台 | |
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eddy
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n.漩涡,涡流 | |
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apparently
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adv.显然地;表面上,似乎 | |
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fully
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adv.完全地,全部地,彻底地;充分地 | |
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eastward
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adv.向东;adj.向东的;n.东方,东部 | |
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pinnacles
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顶峰( pinnacle的名词复数 ); 顶点; 尖顶; 小尖塔 | |
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passionate
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adj.热情的,热烈的,激昂的,易动情的,易怒的,性情暴躁的 | |
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uproar
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n.骚动,喧嚣,鼎沸 | |
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swirl
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v.(使)打漩,(使)涡卷;n.漩涡,螺旋形 | |
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fixed
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adj.固定的,不变的,准备好的;(计算机)固定的 | |
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positively
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adv.明确地,断然,坚决地;实在,确实 | |
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cannon
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n.大炮,火炮;飞机上的机关炮 | |
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prospector
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n.探矿者 | |
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countless
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adj.无数的,多得不计其数的 | |
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gusty
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adj.起大风的 | |
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irresistible
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adj.非常诱人的,无法拒绝的,无法抗拒的 | |
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isolated
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adj.与世隔绝的 | |
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soften
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v.(使)变柔软;(使)变柔和 | |
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dense
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a.密集的,稠密的,浓密的;密度大的 | |
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crests
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v.到达山顶(或浪峰)( crest的第三人称单数 );到达洪峰,达到顶点 | |
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envelop
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vt.包,封,遮盖;包围 | |
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strata
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n.地层(复数);社会阶层 | |
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serenely
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adv.安详地,宁静地,平静地 | |
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aggregation
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n.聚合,组合;凝聚 | |
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decorative
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adj.装饰的,可作装饰的 | |
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fluffy
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adj.有绒毛的,空洞的 | |
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ridges
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n.脊( ridge的名词复数 );山脊;脊状突起;大气层的)高压脊 | |
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ridge
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n.山脊;鼻梁;分水岭 | |
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picturesque
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adj.美丽如画的,(语言)生动的,绘声绘色的 | |
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poetic
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adj.富有诗意的,有诗人气质的,善于抒情的 | |
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penetrate
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v.透(渗)入;刺入,刺穿;洞察,了解 | |
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investigations
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(正式的)调查( investigation的名词复数 ); 侦查; 科学研究; 学术研究 | |
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lining
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n.衬里,衬料 | |
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opaque
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adj.不透光的;不反光的,不传导的;晦涩的 | |
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flake
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v.使成薄片;雪片般落下;n.薄片 | |
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ruffled
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adj. 有褶饰边的, 起皱的 动词ruffle的过去式和过去分词 | |
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steadily
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adv.稳定地;不变地;持续地 | |
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stationary
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adj.固定的,静止不动的 | |
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103
rotation
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n.旋转;循环,轮流 | |
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sublime
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adj.崇高的,伟大的;极度的,不顾后果的 | |
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ebbing
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(指潮水)退( ebb的现在分词 ); 落; 减少; 衰落 | |
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intermittent
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adj.间歇的,断断续续的 | |
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frigid
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adj.寒冷的,凛冽的;冷淡的;拘禁的 | |
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illuminate
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vt.照亮,照明;用灯光装饰;说明,阐释 | |
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descended
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a.为...后裔的,出身于...的 | |
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touching
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adj.动人的,使人感伤的 | |
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pulsating
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adj.搏动的,脉冲的v.有节奏地舒张及收缩( pulsate的现在分词 );跳动;脉动;受(激情)震动 | |
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briefly
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adv.简单地,简短地 | |
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subdued
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adj. 屈服的,柔和的,减弱的 动词subdue的过去式和过去分词 | |
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luminous
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adj.发光的,发亮的;光明的;明白易懂的;有启发的 | |
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115
cramp
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n.痉挛;[pl.](腹)绞痛;vt.限制,束缚 | |
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spasm
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n.痉挛,抽搐;一阵发作 | |
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117
intensified
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v.(使)增强, (使)加剧( intensify的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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118
teller
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n.银行出纳员;(选举)计票员 | |
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119
machinery
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n.(总称)机械,机器;机构 | |
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120
aviators
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飞机驾驶员,飞行员( aviator的名词复数 ) | |
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enchanting
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a.讨人喜欢的 | |
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