I was on snowshoes and for a week we had been camping and tramping through the snowy forests and glacier5 meadows at the source of Grand River, two miles above the sea. The primeval Rocky Mountain forests are just as near to Nature's heart in winter as in summer. I had found so much to study and enjoy that the long[Pg 310] distance from a food-supply, even when the last mouthful was eaten, had not aroused me to the seriousness of the situation. Scotch had not complained, and appeared to have the keenest collie interest in the tracks and trails, the scenes and silences away from the haunts of man. The snow lay seven feet deep, but by keeping in my snowshoe tracks Scotch easily followed me about. Our last camp was in the depths of an alpine6 forest at an altitude of ten thousand feet. Here, though zero weather prevailed, we were easily comfortable beside a fire under the protection of an overhanging cliff.
ON GRAND RIVER, MIDDLE PARK, IN WINTER ON GRAND RIVER, MIDDLE PARK, IN WINTER
After a walk through woods the sun came blazing in our faces past the snow-piled crags on Long's Peak, and threw slender blue shadows of the spiry7 spruces far out in a white glacier meadow to meet us. R?entering the tall but open woods, we saw, down the long aisles8 and limb-arched avenues, a forest of tree columns, entangled9 in sunlight and shadow, standing10 on a snowy marble floor.
We were on the Pacific slope, and our plan was to cross the summit by the shortest way between [Pg 311] timber-line and timber-line on the Atlantic side. This meant ascending11 a thousand feet, descending12 an equal distance, traveling five miles amid bleak13, rugged14 environment. Along the treeless, gradual ascent15 we started, realizing that the last steep icy climb would be dangerous and defiant16. Most of the snow had slid from the steeper places, and much of the remainder had blown away. Over the unsheltered whole the wind was howling. For a time the sun shone dimly through the wind-driven snow-dust that rolled from the top of the range, but it disappeared early behind wild, windswept clouds.
After gaining a thousand feet of altitude through the friendly forest, we climbed out and up above the trees on a steep slope at timber-line. This place, the farthest up for trees, was a picturesque17, desolate18 place. The dwarfed19, gnarled, storm-shaped trees amid enormous snow-drifts told of endless, and at times deadly, struggles of the trees with the elements. Most of the trees were buried, but here and there a leaning or a storm-distorted one bent20 bravely above the snows.[Pg 312]
At last we were safely on a ridge21 and started merrily off, hoping to cover speedily the three miles of comparatively level plateau.
How the wind did blow! Up more than eleven thousand feet above the sea, with not a tree to steady or break, it had a royal sweep. The wind appeared to be putting forth22 its wildest efforts to blow us off the ridge. There being a broad way, I kept well from the edges. The wind came with a dash and heavy rush, first from one quarter, then from another. I was watchful23 and faced each rush firmly braced24. Generally, this preparedness saved me; but several times the wind apparently25 expanded or exploded beneath me, and, with an upward toss, I was flung among the icy rocks and crusted snows. Finally I took to dropping and lying flat whenever a violent gust26 came ripping among the crags.
There was an arctic barrenness to this alpine ridge,—not a house within miles, no trail, and here no tree could live to soften27 the sternness of the landscape or to cheer the traveler. The way was amid snowy piles, icy spaces, and windswept crags.[Pg 313]
The wind slackened and snow began to fall just as we were leaving the smooth plateau for the broken part of the divide. The next mile of way was badly cut to pieces with deep gorges29 from both sides of the ridge. The inner ends of several of these broke through the centre of the ridge and extended beyond the ends of the gorges from the opposite side. This made the course a series of sharp, short zigzags30.
We went forward in the flying snow. I could scarcely see, but felt that I could keep the way on the broken ridge between the numerous rents and ca?ons. On snowy, icy ledges31 the wind took reckless liberties. I wanted to stop but dared not, for the cold was intense enough to freeze one in a few minutes.
Fearing that a snow-whirl might separate us, I fastened one end of my light, strong rope to Scotch's collar and the other end to my belt. This proved to be fortunate for both, for while we were crossing an icy, though moderate, slope, a gust of wind swept me off my feet and started us sliding. It was not steep, but was so slippery I could not stop, nor see where the slope ended,[Pg 314] and I grabbed in vain at the few icy projections32. Scotch also lost his footing and was sliding and rolling about, and the wind was hurrying us along, when I threw myself flat and dug at the ice with fingers and toes. In the midst of my unsuccessful efforts we were brought to a sudden stop by the rope between us catching33 over a small rock-point that was thrust up through the ice. Around this in every direction was smooth, sloping ice; this, with the high wind, made me wonder for a moment how we were to get safely off the slope. The belt axe34 proved the means, for with it I reached out as far as I could and chopped a hole in the ice, while with the other hand I clung to the rock-point. Then, returning the axe to my belt, I caught hold in the chopped place and pulled myself forward, repeating this until on safe footing.
In oncoming darkness and whirling snow I had safely rounded the ends of two gorges and was hurrying forward over a comparatively level stretch, with the wind at my back boosting along. Scotch was running by my side and evidently was trusting me to guard against all[Pg 315] dangers. This I tried to do. Suddenly, however, there came a fierce dash of wind and whirl of snow that hid everything. Instantly I flung myself flat, trying to stop quickly. Just as I did this I caught the strange, weird35 sound made by high wind as it sweeps across a ca?on, and at once realized that we were close to a storm-hidden gorge28. I stopped against a rock, while Scotch slid in and was hauled back with the rope.
The gorge had been encountered between two out-thrusting side gorges, and between these in the darkness I had a cold time feeling my way out. At last I came to a cairn of stones which I recognized. The way had been missed by only a few yards, but this miss had been nearly fatal.
Not daring to hurry in the darkness in order to get warm, I was becoming colder every moment. I still had a stiff climb between me and the summit, with timber-line three rough miles beyond. To attempt to make it would probably result in freezing or tumbling into a gorge. At last I realized that I must stop and spend the[Pg 316] night in a snow-drift. Quickly kicking and trampling36 a trench37 in a loose drift, I placed my elk-skin sleeping-bag therein, thrust Scotch into the bag, and then squeezed into it myself.
I was almost congealed38 with cold. My first thought after warming up was to wonder why I had not earlier remembered the bag. Two in a bag would guarantee warmth, and with warmth a snow-drift on the crest39 of the continent would not be a bad place in which to lodge40 for the night.
The sounds of wind and snow beating upon the bag grew fainter and fainter as we were drifted and piled over with the latter. At the same time our temperature rose, and before long it was necessary to open the flap of the bag slightly for ventilation.
At last the sounds of the storm could barely be heard. Was the storm quieting down, or was its roar muffled41 and lost in the deepening cover of snow, was the unimportant question occupying my thoughts when I fell asleep.
Scotch awakened42 me in trying to get out of the bag. It was morning. Out we crawled, and,[Pg 317] standing with only my head above the drift, I found the air still and saw a snowy mountain world all serene43 in the morning sun. I hastily adjusted sleeping-bag and snowshoes, and we set off for the final climb to the summit.
The final one hundred feet or so rose steep, jagged, and ice-covered before me. There was nothing to lay hold of; every point of vantage was plated and coated with non-prehensible ice. There appeared only one way to surmount44 this icy barrier and that was to chop toe and hand holes from the bottom to the top of this icy wall, which in places was close to vertical45. Such a climb would not be especially difficult or dangerous for me, but could Scotch do it? He could hardly know how to place his feet in the holes or on the steps properly; nor could he realize that a slip or a misstep would mean a slide and a roll to death.
Leaving sleeping-bag and snowshoes with Scotch, I grasped my axe and chopped my way to the top and then went down and carried bag and snowshoes up. Returning for Scotch, I started him climbing just ahead of me, so that I[Pg 318] could boost and encourage him. We had gained only a few feet when it became plain that sooner or later he would slip and bring disaster to both. We stopped and descended46 to the bottom for a new start.
SNOW AND SHADOW SNOW AND SHADOW
Though the wind was again blowing a gale47, I determined48 to carry him. His weight was forty pounds, and he would make a top-heavy load and give the wind a good chance to upset my balance and tip me off the wall. But, as there appeared no other way, I threw him over my shoulder and started up.
Many times Scotch and I had been in ticklish49 places together, and more than once I had pulled him up rocky cliffs on which he could not find footing. Several times I had carried him over gulches50 on fallen logs that were too slippery for him. He was so trusting and so trained that he relaxed and never moved while in my arms or on my shoulder.
Arriving at the place least steep, I stopped to transfer Scotch from one shoulder to the other. The wind was at its worst; its direction frequently changed and it alternately calmed and [Pg 319] then came on like an explosion. For several seconds it had been roaring down the slope; bracing51 myself to withstand its force from this direction, I was about moving Scotch, when it suddenly shifted to one side and came with the force of a breaker. It threw me off my balance and tumbled me heavily against the icy slope.
Though my head struck solidly, Scotch came down beneath me and took most of the shock. Instantly we glanced off and began to slide swiftly. Fortunately I managed to get two fingers into one of the chopped holes and held fast. I clung to Scotch with one arm; we came to a stop, both saved. Scotch gave a yelp52 of pain when he fell beneath me, but he did not move. Had he made a jump or attempted to help himself, it is likely that both of us would have gone to the bottom of the slope.
Gripping Scotch with one hand and clinging to the icy hold with the other, I shuffled53 about until I got my feet into two holes in the icy wall. Standing in these and leaning against the ice, with the wind butting54 and dashing, I attempted the ticklish task of lifting Scotch again to my shoulder—and succeeded. A minute later we paused to breathe on the summit's icy ridge, between two oceans and amid seas of snowy peaks.
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1
scotch
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| n.伤口，刻痕；苏格兰威士忌酒；v.粉碎，消灭，阻止；adj.苏格兰(人)的 | |
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continental
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| adj.大陆的，大陆性的，欧洲大陆的 | |
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blizzard
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| n.暴风雪 | |
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discomforts
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| n.不舒适( discomfort的名词复数 )；不愉快，苦恼 | |
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glacier
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| n.冰川，冰河 | |
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alpine
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| adj.高山的；n.高山植物 | |
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spiry
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| adj.尖端的，尖塔状的，螺旋状的 | |
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aisles
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| n. (席位间的)通道, 侧廊 | |
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entangled
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| adj.卷入的；陷入的；被缠住的；缠在一起的v.使某人（某物/自己）缠绕，纠缠于（某物中），使某人（自己）陷入（困难或复杂的环境中）( entangle的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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standing
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| n.持续，地位；adj.永久的，不动的，直立的，不流动的 | |
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ascending
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| adj.上升的，向上的 | |
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descending
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| n. 下行 adj. 下降的 | |
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13
bleak
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| adj.(天气)阴冷的；凄凉的；暗淡的 | |
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rugged
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| adj.高低不平的，粗糙的，粗壮的，强健的 | |
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ascent
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| n.(声望或地位)提高；上升，升高；登高 | |
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defiant
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| adj.无礼的，挑战的 | |
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picturesque
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| adj.美丽如画的，（语言）生动的，绘声绘色的 | |
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desolate
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| adj.荒凉的，荒芜的；孤独的，凄凉的；v.使荒芜，使孤寂 | |
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dwarfed
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| vt.（使）显得矮小（dwarf的过去式与过去分词形式） | |
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bent
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| n.爱好，癖好；adj.弯的；决心的，一心的 | |
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ridge
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| n.山脊；鼻梁；分水岭 | |
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forth
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| adv.向前；向外，往外 | |
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watchful
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| adj.注意的，警惕的 | |
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braced
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| adj.拉牢的v.支住( brace的过去式和过去分词 )；撑牢；使自己站稳；振作起来 | |
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25
apparently
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| adv.显然地；表面上，似乎 | |
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gust
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| n.阵风，突然一阵（雨、烟等），（感情的）迸发 | |
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soften
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| v.(使)变柔软；(使)变柔和 | |
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gorge
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| n.咽喉，胃，暴食，山峡；v.塞饱，狼吞虎咽地吃 | |
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29
gorges
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| n.山峡，峡谷( gorge的名词复数 )；咽喉v.（用食物把自己）塞饱，填饱( gorge的第三人称单数 )；作呕 | |
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30
zigzags
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| n.锯齿形的线条、小径等( zigzag的名词复数 )v.弯弯曲曲地走路，曲折地前进( zigzag的第三人称单数 ) | |
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31
ledges
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| n.（墙壁，悬崖等）突出的狭长部分( ledge的名词复数 )；（平窄的）壁架；横档；（尤指）窗台 | |
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projections
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| 预测( projection的名词复数 )； 投影； 投掷； 突起物 | |
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catching
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| adj.易传染的，有魅力的，迷人的，接住 | |
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axe
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| n.斧子；v.用斧头砍，削减 | |
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weird
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| adj.古怪的，离奇的；怪诞的，神秘而可怕的 | |
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36
trampling
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| 踩( trample的现在分词 )； 践踏； 无视； 侵犯 | |
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37
trench
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| n./v.(挖)沟，(挖)战壕 | |
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38
congealed
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| v.使凝结，冻结( congeal的过去式和过去分词 )；（指血）凝结 | |
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39
crest
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| n.顶点；饰章；羽冠；vt.达到顶点；vi.形成浪尖 | |
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40
lodge
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| v.临时住宿，寄宿，寄存，容纳；n.传达室，小旅馆 | |
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41
muffled
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| adj.（声音）被隔的；听不太清的；（衣服）裹严的；蒙住的v.压抑，捂住( muffle的过去式和过去分词 )；用厚厚的衣帽包着（自己） | |
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42
awakened
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| v.（使）醒( awaken的过去式和过去分词 )；（使）觉醒；弄醒；（使）意识到 | |
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serene
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| adj. 安详的，宁静的，平静的 | |
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44
surmount
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| vt.克服；置于…顶上 | |
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45
vertical
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| adj.垂直的，顶点的，纵向的；n.垂直物，垂直的位置 | |
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46
descended
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| a.为...后裔的，出身于...的 | |
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47
gale
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| n.大风，强风，一阵闹声（尤指笑声等） | |
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48
determined
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| adj.坚定的；有决心的 | |
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49
ticklish
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| adj.怕痒的；问题棘手的；adv.怕痒地；n.怕痒，小心处理 | |
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50
gulches
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| n.峡谷( gulch的名词复数 ) | |
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51
bracing
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| adj.令人振奋的 | |
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52
yelp
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| vi.狗吠 | |
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53
shuffled
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| v.洗（纸牌）( shuffle的过去式和过去分词 )；拖着脚步走；粗心地做；摆脱尘世的烦恼 | |
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54
butting
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| 用头撞人（犯规动作） | |
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