The South-west is different from all other parts of the country. The Anglo-Saxon is everywhere else in the ascendant. Here the Latin races are dominant1. It is astonishing to find so many oldest churches all over the country. The superlative is a national trait. We have either the oldest or the youngest, the greatest or the smallest, or the only thing in the world. However, it is almost certain that the oldest church and house are to be found in Santa Fé. The Church of San Miguel was built seventy years before the landing of the Pilgrims, and the house next to the church fifty years. It is the oldest settled, is the farthest behind, has the most church-members per capita, and is the most ignorant and superstitious2 part of the land. In one part Mormonism holds[221] sway. In the other, Roman Catholicism of two centuries ago is still the prevailing3 religion.
It is a curious fact; but in this latter respect the North-east and the South-west almost join hands; for Lower Canada sent us Old France, and the South-west remains5 Old Spain. Here, as a man travels through Western Texas, New Mexico, and Arizona, only his Pullman car, and especially his Pullman porter, makes him realize that he is in America. In the eastern part of Texas the buzzards fill the air as they are hovering6 over the dead cattle. In the western part the dead cattle dry up and are blown away. Meat keeps indefinitely. There are no flies there, few insects, and the flowers are almost odorless, perhaps on account of the lack of insect-life. The very butcher-signs look strange. Instead of the fat, meek7 ox on a sign, we have a mad bull charging a Spanish matador8.
Here comes a Mexican with a fifty-dollar hat on his head, and fifty cents would[222] almost buy the rest of his clothes. He marches by with the strut9 of a drum-major. The best streets and the finest houses are often not homes. The plains look as if they would not keep a cow alive; and yet here in the South-west we find some of the finest grazing-lands in the world, although it takes twenty-five acres to feed a cow. But what of that? the acres are unlimited10. The black-tailed antelope11 are seen running from your train; while the prairie-dog sits, like all small things, barking impudently12, or, with a few electric twists of his little tail he dives below, where a rattlesnake and an owl13 keep his house in order, i.e., keep the population down so that the progeny14 would not kill all the grass, and so starve at last; with himself would go the cattle; so the economy of nature keeps up its reputation everywhere. As some have said, when salmon15 are scarce hens' eggs become dear; for the otter16 takes to the land and kills the rabbits, and the weasel, finding his stores low, visits the hen-coops—and up goes the price of eggs.
[223]The minute-man in the South-west has a big field. He is often hundreds of miles from his next church. He preaches to the cowboys one day, to the Digger Indians or the blanket variety the next. He is off among the miners, and sometimes in less than four hours he must change from the cold mountain air to the heat which requires two roofs to the house in order to keep it cool enough. He eats steak that has come one thousand miles from the East, although ten thousand cattle are all about him. He passes a million cows, and yet has to use condensed milk for his coffee or go without.
He finds himself in the midst of the grandest scenery on the continent. In his long journey he often finds himself sleeping on the plain outside the teepees of his red brother, rather risking the tarantulas, lizards17, and rattlers that may come, than the thousands of smaller nuisances that are sure to come if he goes under cover. He is in the midst of a past age; and as he visits the pueblos18, he would not be surprised[224] to see De Soto come forth19, so Spanish are his surroundings. The adobe20 building prevails everywhere, cool in summer, warm in winter, and in this climate well nigh indestructible.
The priesthood are centuries removed from those of the East. Here he will meet with men living in the Middle Ages, beating their backs with cactus22 until the blood streams, and often dying under self-inflicted blows. We often hear of America having no ruins, no ancient history. This may be so in regard to time; but in regard to conditions we are in the time of Boadicea of the ancient Briton, and in the South-west are ruins of buildings that were inhabited when William was crowned at Westminster. So great are the States of the South-west that the counties are larger than New England States; and you may be stuck in a blizzard23 in northern Texas, while people in the southern portion are eating oranges out-doors with the oleanders for shade-trees.
I will close this chapter with a description[225] given me in part by the Rev4. E. Lyman Hood21, who was Superintendent24 of Missions in the South-west until he was broken down by his arduous25 toil26.
One evening he found himself at the opening of an immense ca?on, on the lofty tops of which the snow was perpetual. Sheltered beneath its mighty27 walls, flowers of semi-tropical luxuriance flourished, and birds of gorgeous plumage flitted here and there; while humming-birds, like balls of metal, darted28 among the flowers. A little silver streamlet ran down the ca?on until lost in the blue distance; and here our minute-man stood lost in reverent29 admiration30. The sun was going down in pomp of purple and gold; and the little stream changed its colors with the clouds, until in a moment it became black; a cold wind came down the ca?on, the flowers closed their petals31, and with a twitter here and there the birds went to roost. And then our minute-man looked up aloft, where the sun still gilded32 the great ca?on's shoulders until they glowed[226] like molten metal, and kissed the forehead of an Indian who stood like a statue waiting the sun's setting. Another moment and it was gone, and our Indian stood like a silhouette33 against the sky, when he at once wheeled toward the east, and, stooping, lit a fire; then drawing his ragged34 blanket around him, prepared to watch all night until the sun came up in the eastern horizon, watching for the return of his Saviour35 Montezuma. And thus far he has watched in vain.
A strange fact,—a poor tribe still waiting and watching for a Saviour in a land where there are over twenty million church-members, some of whom ride past him in their palace-cars to take a palatial36 steamer, and travel thousands of miles to find a soul to save. Over twelve denominations37 striving in Mexico to win souls, and scarcely a thing done for the hundreds of thousands of Mexicans in our own land, and over forty tribes of Indians. And all this in the year of our Lord 1895.
点击收听单词发音
1 dominant | |
adj.支配的,统治的;占优势的;显性的;n.主因,要素,主要的人(或物);显性基因 | |
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2 superstitious | |
adj.迷信的 | |
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3 prevailing | |
adj.盛行的;占优势的;主要的 | |
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4 rev | |
v.发动机旋转,加快速度 | |
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5 remains | |
n.剩余物,残留物;遗体,遗迹 | |
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6 hovering | |
鸟( hover的现在分词 ); 靠近(某事物); (人)徘徊; 犹豫 | |
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7 meek | |
adj.温顺的,逆来顺受的 | |
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8 matador | |
n.斗牛士 | |
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9 strut | |
v.肿胀,鼓起;大摇大摆地走;炫耀;支撑;撑开;n.高视阔步;支柱,撑杆 | |
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10 unlimited | |
adj.无限的,不受控制的,无条件的 | |
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11 antelope | |
n.羚羊;羚羊皮 | |
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12 impudently | |
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13 owl | |
n.猫头鹰,枭 | |
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14 progeny | |
n.后代,子孙;结果 | |
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15 salmon | |
n.鲑,大马哈鱼,橙红色的 | |
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16 otter | |
n.水獭 | |
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17 lizards | |
n.蜥蜴( lizard的名词复数 ) | |
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18 pueblos | |
n.印第安人村庄( pueblo的名词复数 ) | |
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19 forth | |
adv.向前;向外,往外 | |
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20 adobe | |
n.泥砖,土坯,美国Adobe公司 | |
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21 hood | |
n.头巾,兜帽,覆盖;v.罩上,以头巾覆盖 | |
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22 cactus | |
n.仙人掌 | |
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23 blizzard | |
n.暴风雪 | |
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24 superintendent | |
n.监督人,主管,总监;(英国)警务长 | |
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25 arduous | |
adj.艰苦的,费力的,陡峭的 | |
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26 toil | |
vi.辛劳工作,艰难地行动;n.苦工,难事 | |
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27 mighty | |
adj.强有力的;巨大的 | |
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28 darted | |
v.投掷,投射( dart的过去式和过去分词 );向前冲,飞奔 | |
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29 reverent | |
adj.恭敬的,虔诚的 | |
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30 admiration | |
n.钦佩,赞美,羡慕 | |
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31 petals | |
n.花瓣( petal的名词复数 ) | |
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32 gilded | |
a.镀金的,富有的 | |
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33 silhouette | |
n.黑色半身侧面影,影子,轮廓;v.描绘成侧面影,照出影子来,仅仅显出轮廓 | |
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34 ragged | |
adj.衣衫褴褛的,粗糙的,刺耳的 | |
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35 saviour | |
n.拯救者,救星 | |
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36 palatial | |
adj.宫殿般的,宏伟的 | |
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37 denominations | |
n.宗派( denomination的名词复数 );教派;面额;名称 | |
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