By Sub-Lieutenant L. Gilmont, Director of the Automobile1 Park, Ocean Ambulance, La Panne
When the battle of the Yser was over, and the Teuton hordes2 were stopped, Nieuport, the advance post of the immense front reaching from the North Sea to the Vosges, had to suffer pitiless destruction. It was the ransom3 we had to pay, because their ineffectual effort had been crushed by the steadfast4 defence of our heroes. I was present at the slow death of Nieuport and, as I had to go there frequently, I never passed by the heaped-up ruins without experiencing a sentiment of infinite sadness mingled5 with revolt. How many times its faithful admirers questioned me about its fate! How the old city had always charmed us by its exquisite6 archaism, with its little narrow, picturesque7 streets cut in straight angles, its quaint8, yellow-ochre buildings with their green shutters9, its church with the parvis planted with tall, protecting trees, its imposing10 Templars' Tower, its Archdukes' House teeming11 with memories, and above all its massive Cloth Hall, proudly situated12 on the Market Place. What pen can ever faithfully depict13 the havoc14 that seventeen months of war have made of the exquisite Flemish city we had all known and[Pg 362] loved? As far away as Oostdunkerque, the vision of war begins. The population has been evacuated15 and here and there, along the streets, there are shattered houses. Then comes the winding16 road across deserted17 fields and the triangular18 wood, that ill-omened wood, where so many of our brave men fell, where the shells rained down with desperate persistency19. At present, all is sad silence, disturbed only by detonations20 in the vicinity, by the sound of a cart passing, or by the measured tread of troops filing by along the edge of the road. On coming out of the wood, the horizon is suddenly in view and the sight is heart-rending. In the background is the town in ruins, and all along the road little houses that have fallen in. On each side a former arm of the sea cuts the dreary22 moor23, which is skirted by uncultivated meadows, partially24 wooded. Most of the sublime25 old trees are lying there, all twisted by the machine-guns, silent for evermore. Some of those which are still standing26 seem to be lifting their bare branches heavenwards, in fruitless protest. We crossed the bridge and the level-crossing, with its little guard-house. The latter had fallen on to a cart, which now stood there unable to move under its unexpected burden. And there, with its Boulevard leading to the old station, all perforated now with enormous craters27, are the first houses of the town. The deflagrations were all brittle28, and we were in the very midst of the furnace. It was a vision of all that is horrible and, above everything else, there was that indescribable, persistent29 odour of rubbish, dust, and death....
Other martyred towns allow the spectator time enough to become accustomed to the frightful30 vision. The farther one goes, the more do the wounds appear[Pg 363] huge and cruel. But here, the chaos32 and ruin strike one immediately.
Nieuport, like Dixmude and Ypres, shared the sad privilege of an absolute and systematic33 destruction. There are rent walls everywhere and piled-up ruins, from which the most extraordinary fragments of rubbish emerge, showing all that remains34 of furniture, so often endeared to its owners by fond memories. Not a single house has been spared. The roofs and the floors, riddled35 by shells, are shapeless masses now lying on the ground. A few house fronts are still standing, showing the trace of streets all dismal36 and deserted, except when a few rare soldiers pass silently by, looking like so many wandering ghosts in the midst of fantastical scenery. The Market Place, adjoining the church, was specially37 aimed at. It is now unrecognisable, thanks to constant bombardment. In a corner, can be seen the massive outline of the Cloth Hall. It is disfigured by horrible wounds, but is still fascinating. It was one of the most interesting monuments of our Flemish art of the fifteenth century. The injuries of time, and those of men, had hitherto respected its primitive38 architecture. The roof, which was of a special technique, had escaped until now, but these last days it fell in, under a veritable avalanche39 of balls. Quite near to it stands the spectre of the ruined church. I could still see it, as it used to be, dominating the whole town with its imposing mass, interesting to contemplate40 and to study in every detail. It was original, too, on account of its various reconstructions41, the traces of which could be seen in the different styles composing it, from primitive Gothic to the Renaissance42 and Louis XIV. And what is left now of all this? One night, it was[Pg 364] set on fire by shells, and the deluge43 of shrapnels, which immediately surrounded the building, prevented anyone from saving the least object. The vaulted44 roof fell in. Charred45 walls, riddled by shell fragments, now frame the columns which are still standing, supporting the graceful46 ogives that had been sullied by the odious47 aggression48. Quantities of material lie in unequal piles; here and there a few decorative49 pieces, disfigured by their fall. It is an imposing looking skeleton, though, in its despair, and it seems as though it wants to remain there, as a witness, after its own death, to its past grandeur50.
One tragic51 relic52 of its wreckage53 still remains, and that is the Tower. In spite of numberless projectiles54, its massive construction, devastated55, but not conquered, persists in dominating the horizon of Flanders. It had been constructed, primitively56, to support three times its weight. It scorned the shells which wounded it without knocking it down, and its dark mass, proudly standing in the midst of the heaped-up ruins, seems to be defying the infernal inventions aimed at it.
The cemetery57 adjoining the church is a most touching58 sight. Loving hands have managed to keep the graves in order and they are covered with flowers. There are very many of these graves, and some are even on the paths. Not a single tomb is neglected. There are flowers, vases, statuettes, and ancient woodwork, side by side with figures of coloured plaster. All that could be rescued from the ruins has been used for honouring the memory of those who are no more. There is one grave which I shall never forget. It is surrounded by the ironwork of a child's bedstead and, with infinite care, climbing plants and flowers have[Pg 365] been trained over this. In the centre, there are more plants, a crucifix and two statues forming a calvary.
One night we were crossing this resting-place, where so many heroes are sleeping their last sleep, when we witnessed a touching scene. We heard the tread of approaching footsteps and a murmur59 of voices. The chaplain, in his surplice, advanced, reciting the Prayers for the Dead. Behind him, on a stretcher, carried by two sailors, was a long form. They went on their way slowly to the other end of the cemetery, where a grave had been prepared. They had to wait a little, as in order to find the grave they needed the light of the fuses. The body was lowered, a few more prayers were said, and then the dull thud of the earth falling, and that was all.... There was the most impressive silence, in spite of the cannon60 which kept vomiting61 forth62 death, and the almost uninterrupted crackling of the bullets. A few hundred yards away, the horizon, forming a semi-circle was lighted up at quick intervals63 by the fuses which rose, throwing their reddish glow over the darkness, lighting64 up the dreary plain, on the screen of which the sombre mass of the tower, and the irregular lines of the dismantled65 pilasters and of the arches, stood out all the more distinctly. A terrified bat turned wildly about in the air, seeking a shelter that it could no longer find.
I remember that I spent that night at the relief station of the Fusiliers, where I found a shelter for my men and where I was most hospitably66 treated. In a cellar, adjoining the one in which their poor wounded comrades were lying, a bed was very quickly made for me. The walls of this improvised67 bedroom were papered with red, striped paper, comfortable furniture was arranged here and there, and I should certainly[Pg 366] have slept, and not thought any more about the war, if it had not been for the sound of the cannon, the detonations of the grenades, and the clack of the bullets which, from time to time, came flattening68 themselves against the outside of the wall.
At 3 o'clock, I was called, and we went on to the Town Hall, to do some work there at daybreak. It was absolutely calm just then; not the faintest sound, not even the slightest detonation21 could be heard to disturb the great silence. We arrived at Rue31 Longue and I saw the beautiful Louis XIV. fa?ade once more. It was so characteristic, with its double flight of stone steps. It stood there almost intact, in one of the angles of the two streets that it ornaments69. We went up one flight of stairs and entered the Museum through the bay window. We stopped short in front of a huge, gaping70 hole, obstructed71 by all kinds of material. Two shells of 420 calibre had fallen there, taking away with them the whole of the back of the building. When we had finished our work, before leaving what had been the Museum, I looked out at the horizon. There was a wider view from there now, thanks to the fall, one after another, of the crumbling72 gables. I could see the line of the Yser, and the canals, the destroyed houses of the lock-keepers, and, in the background, the great downs. I then glanced at the place where the huge, documentary picture of the Siege of Nieuport used to hang. I had fetched it away in 1910, and the Kaiser, on his visit to Brussels, had stopped a long time looking at it in a thoughtful, interested way....
On our return, we passed through the town again. It was just rousing to its military life. The firing had recommenced, and from time to time a bullet whizzed through the air.
[Pg 367]
As we passed by, we looked at what had been the relief station for the sailors. We had seen so much suffering there. Our colleague, Chopard, had been hit near by and had died there. On leaving the town, we passed along the country roads. The sun was shining brightly and it bid fair to be a glorious day. The most fragrant73 odours came to us from the woods, and the fields were all refreshed with the dew. The birds were singing.... We came to an inhabited farm. Children were playing outside, careless of all danger. The father was moving to and fro, attending to his usual daily work. In front of the half open door, the mother could be seen feeding her baby. The hours we had lived through seemed now like a horrible nightmare which we would fain forget. When we came to La Panne, the bell of the Convent of the "Pauvres Claires" of Nieuport, which rings in the little tower of the simple Ocean Chapel74, reminded us that it, too, had witnessed tragic moments. Poor little bell! It seems to me that I can see it falling down from its graceful bell-tower, after the brutal75 and monstrous76 blow given by the murderous shell. I can still hear its rebounding77 fall above the noise of the tumbling walls, in the midst of the ghastly furnace. I could hear its last echoing groan78, a last protest against the odious destruction. Go on ringing timidly, little bell, in the calm of this bright morning, a calm only disturbed by the noise of the work of death. Very soon, that song shall be followed by another one. You shall ring out then, to all the echoes, the song of joy, the song of victory, announcing to the crowd, thrilled with joy unspeakable, that the hour of the great deliverance has arrived, the hour when we shall find our heroic Belgium free once more and born anew!
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1
automobile
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| n.汽车，机动车 | |
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2
hordes
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| n.移动着的一大群( horde的名词复数 )；部落 | |
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ransom
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| n.赎金，赎身；v.赎回，解救 | |
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steadfast
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| adj.固定的，不变的，不动摇的；忠实的；坚贞不移的 | |
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mingled
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| 混合，混入( mingle的过去式和过去分词 )； 混进，与…交往[联系] | |
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exquisite
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| adj.精美的；敏锐的；剧烈的，感觉强烈的 | |
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picturesque
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| adj.美丽如画的，（语言）生动的，绘声绘色的 | |
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quaint
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| adj.古雅的，离奇有趣的，奇怪的 | |
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shutters
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| 百叶窗( shutter的名词复数 )； （照相机的）快门 | |
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imposing
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| adj.使人难忘的，壮丽的，堂皇的，雄伟的 | |
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teeming
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| adj.丰富的v.充满( teem的现在分词 )；到处都是；（指水、雨等）暴降；倾注 | |
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12
situated
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| adj.坐落在...的，处于某种境地的 | |
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13
depict
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| vt.描画，描绘；描写，描述 | |
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14
havoc
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| n.大破坏，浩劫，大混乱，大杂乱 | |
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evacuated
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| 撤退者的 | |
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winding
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| n.绕，缠，绕组，线圈 | |
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deserted
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| adj.荒芜的，荒废的，无人的，被遗弃的 | |
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triangular
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| adj.三角（形）的，三者间的 | |
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persistency
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| n. 坚持(余辉, 时间常数) | |
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20
detonations
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| n.爆炸 （声）( detonation的名词复数 ) | |
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detonation
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| n.爆炸；巨响 | |
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22
dreary
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| adj.令人沮丧的，沉闷的，单调乏味的 | |
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moor
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| n.荒野，沼泽；vt.(使)停泊；vi.停泊 | |
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24
partially
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| adv.部分地，从某些方面讲 | |
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25
sublime
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| adj.崇高的，伟大的；极度的，不顾后果的 | |
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standing
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| n.持续，地位；adj.永久的，不动的，直立的，不流动的 | |
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27
craters
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| n.火山口( crater的名词复数 )；弹坑等 | |
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28
brittle
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| adj.易碎的；脆弱的；冷淡的；(声音)尖利的 | |
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persistent
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| adj.坚持不懈的，执意的；持续的 | |
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frightful
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| adj.可怕的；讨厌的 | |
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rue
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| n.懊悔，芸香，后悔；v.后悔，悲伤，懊悔 | |
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chaos
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| n.混乱，无秩序 | |
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systematic
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| adj.有系统的，有计划的，有方法的 | |
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remains
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| n.剩余物，残留物；遗体，遗迹 | |
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riddled
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| adj.布满的；充斥的；泛滥的v.解谜，出谜题(riddle的过去分词形式) | |
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dismal
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| adj.阴沉的，凄凉的，令人忧郁的，差劲的 | |
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specially
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| adv.特定地；特殊地；明确地 | |
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38
primitive
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| adj.原始的；简单的；n.原(始)人，原始事物 | |
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avalanche
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| n.雪崩，大量涌来 | |
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contemplate
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| vt.盘算，计议；周密考虑；注视，凝视 | |
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reconstructions
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| 重建( reconstruction的名词复数 )； 再现； 重建物； 复原物 | |
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renaissance
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| n.复活，复兴，文艺复兴 | |
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43
deluge
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| n./vt.洪水，暴雨，使泛滥 | |
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vaulted
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| adj.拱状的 | |
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45
charred
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| v.把…烧成炭( char的过去式)；烧焦 | |
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46
graceful
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| adj.优美的，优雅的；得体的 | |
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odious
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| adj.可憎的，讨厌的 | |
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48
aggression
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| n.进攻，侵略，侵犯，侵害 | |
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49
decorative
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| adj.装饰的，可作装饰的 | |
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50
grandeur
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| n.伟大，崇高，宏伟，庄严，豪华 | |
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51
tragic
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| adj.悲剧的，悲剧性的，悲惨的 | |
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52
relic
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| n.神圣的遗物，遗迹，纪念物 | |
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53
wreckage
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| n.（失事飞机等的）残骸，破坏，毁坏 | |
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54
projectiles
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| n.抛射体( projectile的名词复数 )；（炮弹、子弹等）射弹，（火箭等）自动推进的武器 | |
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55
devastated
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| v.彻底破坏( devastate的过去式和过去分词)；摧毁；毁灭；在感情上（精神上、财务上等）压垮adj.毁坏的；极为震惊的 | |
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primitively
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| 最初地，自学而成地 | |
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57
cemetery
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| n.坟墓，墓地，坟场 | |
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58
touching
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| adj.动人的，使人感伤的 | |
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murmur
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| n.低语，低声的怨言；v.低语，低声而言 | |
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cannon
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| n.大炮，火炮；飞机上的机关炮 | |
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vomiting
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| 吐 | |
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62
forth
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| adv.向前；向外，往外 | |
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intervals
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| n.[军事]间隔( interval的名词复数 )；间隔时间；[数学]区间；（戏剧、电影或音乐会的）幕间休息 | |
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64
lighting
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| n.照明，光线的明暗，舞台灯光 | |
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65
dismantled
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| 拆开( dismantle的过去式和过去分词 )； 拆卸； 废除； 取消 | |
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hospitably
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| 亲切地，招待周到地，善于款待地 | |
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improvised
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| a.即席而作的,即兴的 | |
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flattening
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| n. 修平 动词flatten的现在分词 | |
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69
ornaments
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| n.装饰( ornament的名词复数 )；点缀；装饰品；首饰v.装饰，点缀，美化( ornament的第三人称单数 ) | |
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70
gaping
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| adj.口的；张口的；敞口的；多洞穴的v.目瞪口呆地凝视( gape的现在分词 )；张开，张大 | |
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71
obstructed
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| 阻塞( obstruct的过去式和过去分词 )； 堵塞； 阻碍； 阻止 | |
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72
crumbling
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| adj.摇摇欲坠的 | |
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73
fragrant
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| adj.芬香的，馥郁的，愉快的 | |
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74
chapel
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| n.小教堂，殡仪馆 | |
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brutal
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| adj.残忍的，野蛮的，不讲理的 | |
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76
monstrous
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| adj.巨大的；恐怖的；可耻的，丢脸的 | |
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rebounding
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| 蹦跳运动 | |
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groan
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| vi./n.呻吟，抱怨；(发出)呻吟般的声音 | |
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