It was the earliest dawn. The morning only showed itself along the lower edge of a bank of purple clouds pierced by the misty2 peaks of Tahiti. The tropical day seemed too languid to rise. Sometimes, starting fitfully, it decked the clouds with faint edgings of pink and gray, which, fading away, left all dim again. Anon, it threw out thin, pale rays, growing lighter3 and lighter, until at last, the golden morning sprang out of the East with a bound—darting its bright beams hither and thither4, higher and higher, and sending them, broadcast, over the face of the heavens.
All balmy from the groves5 of Tahiti came an indolent air, cooled by its transit6 over the waters; and grateful underfoot was the damp and slightly yielding beach, from which the waves seemed just retired7.
The doctor was in famous spirits; removing his Koora, he went splashing into the sea; and, after swimming a few yards, waded8 ashore9, hopping10, skipping, and jumping along the beach; but very careful to cut all his capers11 in the direction of our journey.
Say what they will of the glowing independence one feels in the saddle, give me the first morning flush of your cheery pedestrian!
Thus exhilarated, we went on, as light-hearted and care-free as we could wish.
And here I cannot refrain from lauding12 the very superior inducements which most intertropical countries afford, not only to mere13 rovers like ourselves, but to penniless people generally. In these genial14 regions one's wants are naturally diminished; and those which remain are easily gratified; fuel, house-shelter, and, if you please, clothing, may be entirely15 dispensed16 with.
How different our hard northern latitudes17! Alas18! the lot of a "poor devil," twenty degrees north of the tropic of Cancer, is indeed pitiable.
At last, the beach contracted to hardly a yard's width, and the dense19 thicket20 almost dipped into the sea. In place of the smooth sand, too, we had sharp fragments of broken coral, which made travelling exceedingly unpleasant. "Lord! my foot!" roared the doctor, fetching it up for inspection21, with a galvanic fling of the limb. A sharp splinter had thrust itself into the flesh through a hole in his boot. My sandals were worse yet; their soles taking a sort of fossil impression of everything trod upon.
Turning round a bold sweep of the beach, we came upon a piece of fine, open ground, with a fisherman's dwelling22 in the distance, crowning a knoll23 which rolled off into the water.
The hut proved to be a low, rude erection, very recently thrown up; for the bamboos were still green as grass, and the thatching fresh and fragrant24 as meadow hay. It was open upon three sides; so that, upon drawing near, the domestic arrangements within were in plain sight. No one was stirring; and nothing was to be seen but a clumsy old chest of native workmanship, a few calabashes, and bundles of tappa hanging against a post; and a heap of something, we knew not what, in a dark corner. Upon close inspection, the doctor discovered it to be a loving old couple, locked in each other's arms, and rolled together in a tappa mantle26.
"Halloa! Darby!" he cried, shaking the one with a beard. But Darby heeded27 him not; though Joan, a wrinkled old body, started up in affright, and yelled aloud. Neither of us attempting to gag her, she presently became quiet; and, after staring hard and asking some unintelligible28 questions, she proceeded to rouse her still slumbering29 mate.
What ailed30 him we could not tell; but there was no waking him. Equally in vain were all his dear spouse's cuffs31, pinches, and other endearments32; he lay like a log, face up, snoring away like a cavalry33 trumpeter.
"Here, my good woman," said Long Ghost, "just let me try"; and, taking the patient right by his nose, he so lifted him bodily into a sitting position, and held him there until his eyes opened. When this event came to pass, Darby looked round like one stupefied; and then, springing to his feet, backed away into a corner, from which place we became the objects of his earnest and respectful attention.
"Permit me, my dear Darby, to introduce to you my esteemed34 friend and comrade, Paul," said the doctor, gallanting me up with all the grimace35 and flourish imaginable. Upon this, Darby began to recover his faculties36, and surprised us not a little by talking a few words of English. So far as could be understood, they were expressive37 of his having been aware that there were two "karhowrees" in the neighbourhood; that he was glad to see us, and would have something for us to eat in no time.
How he came by his English was explained to us before we left. Some time previous, he had been a denizen38 of Papeetee, where the native language is broidered over with the most classic sailor phrases. He seemed to be quite proud of his residence there; and alluded39 to it in the same significant way in which a provincial40 informs you that in his time he has resided in the capital. The old fellow was disposed to be garrulous41; but being sharp-set, we told him to get breakfast; after which we would hear his anecdotes42. While employed among the calabashes, the strange, antiquated43 fondness between these old semi-savages was really amusing. I made no doubt that they were saying to each other, "yes, my love"—"no, my life," just in the same way that some young couples do, at home.
They gave us a hearty44 meal; and while we were discussing its merits, they assured us, over and over again, that they expected nothing in return for their attentions; more: we were at liberty to stay as long as we pleased; and as long as we did stay, their house and everything they had was no longer theirs, but ours; still more: they themselves were our slaves—the old lady, to a degree that was altogether superfluous45. This, now, is Tahitian hospitality! Self-immolation upon one's own hearthstone for the benefit of the guest.
The Polynesians carry their hospitality to an amazing extent. Let a native of Waiurar, the westernmost part of Tahiti, make his appearance as a traveller at Partoowye, the most easterly village of Imeeo; though a perfect stranger, the inhabitants on all sides accost46 him at their doorways47, inviting48 him to enter, and make himself at home. But the traveller passes on, examining every house attentively49; until, at last, he pauses before one which suits him, and then exclaiming, "ah, eda maitai" (this one will do, I think), he steps in, and makes himself perfectly50 at ease; flinging himself upon the mats, and very probably calling for a nice young cocoa-nut, and a piece of toasted breadfruit, sliced thin, and done brown.
Curious to relate, however, should a stranger carrying it thus bravely be afterwards discovered to be without a house of his own, why, he may thenceforth go a-begging for his lodgings52. The "karhowrees," or white men, are exceptions to this rule. Thus it is precisely53 as in civilized54 countries, where those who have houses and lands are incessantly55 bored to death with invitations to come and live in other people's houses; while many a poor gentleman who inks the seams of his coat, and to whom the like invitation would be really acceptable, may go and sue for it. But to the credit of the ancient Tahitians, it should here be observed that this blemish56 upon their hospitality is only of recent origin, and was wholly unknown in old times. So told me, Captain Bob.
In Polynesia it is esteemed "a great hit" if a man succeed in marrying into a family to which the best part of the community is related (Heaven knows it is otherwise with us). The reason is that, when he goes a-travelling, the greater number of houses are the more completely at his service.
Receiving a paternal57 benediction58 from old Darby and Joan, we continued our journey; resolved to stop at the very next place of attraction which offered.
Nor did we long stroll for it. A fine walk along a beach of shells, and we came to a spot where, trees here and there, the land was all meadow, sloping away to the water, which stirred a sedgy growth of reeds bordering its margin59. Close by was a little cove25, walled in with coral, where a fleet of canoes was dancing up and down. A few paces distant, on a natural terrace overlooking the sea, were several native dwellings60, newly thatched, and peeping into view out of the foliage61 like summer-houses.
As we drew near, forth51 came a burst of voices, and, presently, three gay girls, overflowing62 with life, health, and youth, and full of spirits and mischief63. One was arrayed in a flaunting64 robe of calico; and her long black hair was braided behind in two immense tresses, joined together at the ends, and wreathed with the green tendrils of a vine. From her self-possessed and forward air, I fancied she might be some young lady from Papeetee on a visit to her country relations. Her companions wore mere slips of cotton cloth; their hair was dishevelled; and though very pretty, they betrayed the reserve and embarrassment65 characteristic of the provinces.
The little gipsy first mentioned ran up to me with great cordiality; and, giving the Tahitian salutation, opened upon me such a fire of questions that there was no understanding, much less answering them. But our hearty welcome to Loohooloo, as she called the hamlet, was made plain enough. Meanwhile, Doctor Long Ghost gallantly66 presented an arm to each of the other young ladies; which, at first, they knew not what to make of; but at last, taking it for some kind of joke, accepted the civility.
The names of these three damsels were at once made known by themselves: and being so exceedingly romantic, I cannot forbear particularizing them. Upon my comrade's arms, then, were hanging Night and Morning, in the persons of Farnowar, or the Day-Born, and Earnoopoo, or the Night-Born. She with the tresses was very appropriately styled Marhar-Rarrar, the Wakeful, or Bright-Eyed.
By this time, the houses were emptied of the rest of their inmates—a few old men and women, and several strapping67 young fellows rubbing their eyes and yawning. All crowded round, putting questions as to whence we came. Upon being informed of our acquaintance with Zeke, they were delighted; and one of them recognized the boots worn by the doctor. "Keekee (Zeke) maitai," they cried, "nuee nuee hanna hanna portarto"—(makes plenty of potatoes).
There was now a little friendly altercation68 as to who should have the honour of entertaining the strangers. At last, a tall old gentleman, by name Marharvai, with a bald head and white beard, took us each by the hand, and led us into his dwelling. Once inside, Marharvai, pointing about with his staff, was so obsequious69 in assuring us that his house was ours that Long Ghost suggested he might as well hand over the deed.
It was drawing near noon; so after a light lunch of roasted breadfruit, a few whiffs of a pipe, and some lively chatting, our host admonished70 the company to lie down, and take the everlasting71 siesta72. We complied; and had a social nap all round.
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1
hegira
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| n.逃亡 | |
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misty
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| adj.雾蒙蒙的，有雾的 | |
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lighter
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| n.打火机，点火器；驳船；v.用驳船运送；light的比较级 | |
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thither
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| adv.向那里；adj.在那边的，对岸的 | |
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groves
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| 树丛，小树林( grove的名词复数 ) | |
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transit
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| n.经过，运输；vt.穿越，旋转；vi.越过 | |
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retired
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| adj.隐退的，退休的，退役的 | |
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waded
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| （从水、泥等）蹚，走过，跋( wade的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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ashore
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| adv.在(向)岸上，上岸 | |
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hopping
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| n. 跳跃 动词hop的现在分词形式 | |
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capers
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| n.开玩笑( caper的名词复数 )；刺山柑v.跳跃，雀跃( caper的第三人称单数 ) | |
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lauding
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| v.称赞，赞美( laud的现在分词 ) | |
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mere
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| adj.纯粹的；仅仅，只不过 | |
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genial
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| adj.亲切的，和蔼的，愉快的，脾气好的 | |
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entirely
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| ad.全部地，完整地；完全地，彻底地 | |
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dispensed
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| v.分配( dispense的过去式和过去分词 )；施与；配（药） | |
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latitudes
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| 纬度 | |
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alas
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| int.唉(表示悲伤、忧愁、恐惧等) | |
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dense
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| a.密集的，稠密的，浓密的；密度大的 | |
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thicket
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| n.灌木丛，树林 | |
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inspection
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| n.检查，审查，检阅 | |
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dwelling
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| n.住宅，住所，寓所 | |
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knoll
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| n.小山，小丘 | |
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fragrant
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| adj.芬香的，馥郁的，愉快的 | |
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cove
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| n.小海湾，小峡谷 | |
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mantle
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| n.斗篷，覆罩之物，罩子；v.罩住，覆盖，脸红 | |
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27
heeded
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| v.听某人的劝告，听从( heed的过去式和过去分词 )；变平，使（某物）变平( flatten的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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unintelligible
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| adj.无法了解的，难解的，莫明其妙的 | |
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slumbering
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| 微睡，睡眠（slumber的现在分词形式） | |
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ailed
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| v.生病( ail的过去式和过去分词 )；感到不舒服；处境困难；境况不佳 | |
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31
cuffs
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| n.袖口( cuff的名词复数 )v.掌打，拳打( cuff的第三人称单数 ) | |
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endearments
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| n.表示爱慕的话语，亲热的表示( endearment的名词复数 ) | |
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cavalry
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| n.骑兵；轻装甲部队 | |
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esteemed
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| adj.受人尊敬的v.尊敬( esteem的过去式和过去分词 )；敬重；认为；以为 | |
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grimace
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| v.做鬼脸，面部歪扭 | |
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faculties
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| n.能力( faculty的名词复数 )；全体教职员；技巧；院 | |
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expressive
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| adj.表现的，表达…的，富于表情的 | |
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denizen
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| n.居民，外籍居民 | |
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alluded
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| 提及，暗指( allude的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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provincial
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| adj.省的，地方的；n．外省人，乡下人 | |
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garrulous
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| adj.唠叨的，多话的 | |
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42
anecdotes
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| n.掌故，趣闻，轶事( anecdote的名词复数 ) | |
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43
antiquated
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| adj.陈旧的，过时的 | |
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44
hearty
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| adj.热情友好的；衷心的；尽情的，纵情的 | |
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45
superfluous
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| adj.过多的，过剩的，多余的 | |
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46
accost
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| v.向人搭话，打招呼 | |
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47
doorways
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| n.门口，门道( doorway的名词复数 ) | |
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48
inviting
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| adj.诱人的，引人注目的 | |
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attentively
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| adv.聚精会神地；周到地；谛；凝神 | |
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50
perfectly
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| adv.完美地，无可非议地，彻底地 | |
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51
forth
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| adv.向前；向外，往外 | |
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52
lodgings
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| n. 出租的房舍, 寄宿舍 | |
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53
precisely
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| adv.恰好，正好，精确地，细致地 | |
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civilized
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| a.有教养的，文雅的 | |
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incessantly
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| ad.不停地 | |
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56
blemish
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| v.损害；玷污；瑕疵，缺点 | |
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paternal
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| adj.父亲的，像父亲的，父系的，父方的 | |
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benediction
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| n.祝福；恩赐 | |
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margin
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| n.页边空白；差额；余地，余裕；边，边缘 | |
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dwellings
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| n.住处，处所( dwelling的名词复数 ) | |
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foliage
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| n.叶子，树叶，簇叶 | |
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overflowing
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| n. 溢出物,溢流 adj. 充沛的，充满的 动词overflow的现在分词形式 | |
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mischief
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| n.损害，伤害，危害；恶作剧，捣蛋，胡闹 | |
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64
flaunting
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| adj.招摇的，扬扬得意的，夸耀的v.炫耀，夸耀( flaunt的现在分词 )；有什么能耐就施展出来 | |
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embarrassment
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| n.尴尬；使人为难的人(事物)；障碍；窘迫 | |
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gallantly
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| adv. 漂亮地，勇敢地，献殷勤地 | |
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67
strapping
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| adj. 魁伟的, 身材高大健壮的 n. 皮绳或皮带的材料, 裹伤胶带, 皮鞭 动词strap的现在分词形式 | |
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altercation
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| n.争吵，争论 | |
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obsequious
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| adj.谄媚的，奉承的，顺从的 | |
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admonished
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| v.劝告( admonish的过去式和过去分词 )；训诫；（温和地）责备；轻责 | |
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everlasting
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| adj.永恒的，持久的，无止境的 | |
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siesta
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| n.午睡 | |
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