These Liverpool days, however, were a famous thing for me; who, thereby6, was enabled after my day's work aboard the Highlander7, to ramble8 about the town for several hours. After I had visited all the noted9 places I could discover, of those marked down upon my father's map, I began to extend my rovings indefinitely; forming myself into a committee of one, to investigate all accessible parts of the town; though so many years have elapsed, ere I have thought of bringing in my report.
This was a great delight to me: for wherever I have been in the world, I have always taken a vast deal of lonely satisfaction in wandering about, up and down, among out-of-the-way streets and alleys10, and speculating upon the strangers I have met. Thus, in Liverpool I used to pace along endless streets of dwelling-houses, looking at the names on the doors, admiring the pretty faces in the windows, and invoking11 a passing blessing12 upon the chubby13 children on the door-steps. I was stared at myself, to be sure: but what of that? We must give and take on such occasions. In truth, I and my shooting-jacket produced quite a sensation in Liverpool: and I have no doubt, that many a father of a family went home to his children with a curious story, about a wandering phenomenon they had encountered, traversing the side-walks that day. In the words of the old song, "I cared for nobody, no not I, and nobody cared for me." I stared my fill with impunity14, and took all stares myself in good part.
Once I was standing15 in a large square, gaping16 at a splendid chariot drawn17 up at a portico18. The glossy19 horses quivered with good-living, and so did the sumptuous20 calves21 of the gold-laced coachman and footmen in attendance. I was particularly struck with the red cheeks of these men: and the many evidences they furnished of their enjoying this meal with a wonderful relish22.
While thus standing, I all at once perceived, that the objects of my curiosity, were making me an object of their own; and that they were gazing at me, as if I were some unauthorized intruder upon the British soil. Truly, they had reason: for when I now think of the figure I must have cut in those days, I only marvel23 that, in my many strolls, my passport was not a thousand times demanded.
Nevertheless, I was only a forlorn looking mortal among tens of thousands of rags and tatters. For in some parts of the town, inhabited by laborers24, and poor people generally; I used to crowd my way through masses of squalid men, women, and children, who at this evening hour, in those quarters of Liverpool, seem to empty themselves into the street, and live there for the time. I had never seen any thing like it in New York. Often, I witnessed some curious, and many very sad scenes; and especially I remembered encountering a pale, ragged25 man, rushing along frantically26, and striving to throw off his wife and children, who clung to his arms and legs; and, in God's name, conjured28 him not to desert them. He seemed bent29 upon rushing down to the water, and drowning himself, in some despair, and craziness of wretchedness. In these haunts, beggary went on before me wherever I walked, and dogged me unceasingly at the heels. Poverty, poverty, poverty, in almost endless vistas30: and want and woe31 staggered arm in arm along these miserable32 streets.
And here, I must not omit one thing, that struck me at the time. It was the absence of negroes; who in the large towns in the "free states" of America, almost always form a considerable portion of the destitute33. But in these streets, not a negro was to be seen. All were whites; and with the exception of the Irish, were natives of the soil: even Englishmen; as much Englishmen, as the dukes in the House of Lords. This conveyed a strange feeling: and more than any thing else, reminded me that I was not in my own land. For there, such a being as a native beggar is almost unknown; and to be a born American citizen seems a guarantee against pauperism34; and this, perhaps, springs from the virtue35 of a vote.
Speaking of negroes, recalls the looks of interest with which negro-sailors are regarded when they walk the Liverpool streets. In Liverpool indeed the negro steps with a prouder pace, and lifts his head like a man; for here, no such exaggerated feeling exists in respect to him, as in America. Three or four times, I encountered our black steward36, dressed very handsomely, and walking arm in arm with a good-looking English woman. In New York, such a couple would have been mobbed in three minutes; and the steward would have been lucky to escape with whole limbs. Owing to the friendly reception extended to them, and the unwonted immunities37 they enjoy in Liverpool, the black cooks and stewards38 of American ships are very much attached to the place and like to make voyages to it.
Being so young and inexperienced then, and unconsciously swayed in some degree by those local and social prejudices, that are the marring of most men, and from which, for the mass, there seems no possible escape; at first I was surprised that a colored man should be treated as he is in this town; but a little reflection showed that, after all, it was but recognizing his claims to humanity and normal equality; so that, in some things, we Americans leave to other countries the carrying out of the principle that stands at the head of our Declaration of Independence.
During my evening strolls in the wealthier quarters, I was subject to a continual mortification39. It was the humiliating fact, wholly unforeseen by me, that upon the whole, and barring the poverty and beggary, Liverpool, away from the docks, was very much such a place as New York. There were the same sort of streets pretty much; the same rows of houses with stone steps; the same kind of side-walks and curbs40; and the same elbowing, heartless-looking crowd as ever.
I came across the Leeds Canal, one afternoon; but, upon my word, no one could have told it from the Erie Canal at Albany. I went into St. John's Market on a Saturday night; and though it was strange enough to see that great roof supported by so many pillars, yet the most discriminating41 observer would not have been able to detect any difference between the articles exposed for sale, and the articles exhibited in Fulton Market, New York.
I walked down Lord-street, peering into the jewelers' shops; but I thought I was walking down a block in Broadway. I began to think that all this talk about travel was a humbug42; and that he who lives in a nut-shell, lives in an epitome43 of the universe, and has but little to see beyond him.
It is true, that I often thought of London's being only seven or eight hours' travel by railroad from where I was; and that there, surely, must be a world of wonders waiting my eyes: but more of London anon.
Sundays were the days upon which I made my longest explorations. I rose bright and early, with my whole plan of operations in my head. First walking into some dock hitherto unexamined, and then to breakfast. Then a walk through the more fashionable streets, to see the people going to church; and then I myself went to church, selecting the goodliest edifice44, and the tallest Kentuckian of a spire45 I could find.
For I am an admirer of church architecture; and though, perhaps, the sums spent in erecting46 magnificent cathedrals might better go to the founding of charities, yet since these structures are built, those who disapprove47 of them in one sense, may as well have the benefit of them in another.
It is a most Christian48 thing, and a matter most sweet to dwell upon and simmer over in solitude49, that any poor sinner may go to church wherever he pleases; and that even St. Peter's in Rome is open to him, as to a cardinal50; that St. Paul's in London is not shut against him; and that the Broadway Tabernacle, in New York, opens all her broad aisles51 to him, and will not even have doors and thresholds to her pews, the better to allure53 him by an unbounded invitation. I say, this consideration of the hospitality and democracy in churches, is a most Christian and charming thought. It speaks whole volumes of folios, and Vatican libraries, for Christianity; it is more eloquent54, and goes farther home than all the sermons of Massillon, Jeremy Taylor, Wesley, and Archbishop Tillotson.
Nothing daunted55, therefore, by thinking of my being a stranger in the land; nothing daunted by the architectural superiority and costliness56 of any Liverpool church; or by the streams of silk dresses and fine broadcloth coats flowing into the aisles, I used humbly57 to present myself before the sexton, as a candidate for admission. He would stare a little, perhaps (one of them once hesitated), but in the end, what could he do but show me into a pew; not the most commodious58 of pews, to be sure; nor commandingly located; nor within very plain sight or hearing of the pulpit. No; it was remarkable59, that there was always some confounded pillar or obstinate60 angle of the wall in the way; and I used to think, that the sextons of Liverpool must have held a secret meeting on my account, and resolved to apportion61 me the most inconvenient62 pew in the churches under their charge. However, they always gave me a seat of some sort or other; sometimes even on an oaken bench in the open air of the aisle52, where I would sit, dividing the attention of the congregation between myself and the clergyman. The whole congregation seemed to know that I was a foreigner of distinction.
It was sweet to hear the service read, the organ roll, the sermon preached—just as the same things were going on three thousand five hundred miles off, at home! But then, the prayer in behalf of her majesty63 the Queen, somewhat threw me back. Nevertheless, I joined in that prayer, and invoked64 for the lady the best wishes of a poor Yankee.
How I loved to sit in the holy hush65 of those brown old monastic aisles, thinking of Harry66 the Eighth, and the Reformation! How I loved to go a roving with my eye, all along the sculptured walls and buttresses67; winding68 in among the intricacies of the pendent ceiling, and wriggling69 my fancied way like a wood-worm. I could have sat there all the morning long, through noon, unto night. But at last the benediction70 would come; and appropriating my share of it, I would slowly move away, thinking how I should like to go home with some of the portly old gentlemen, with high-polished boots and Malacca canes71, and take a seat at their cosy72 and comfortable dinner-tables. But, alas73! there was no dinner for me except at the sign of the Baltimore Clipper.
Yet the Sunday dinners that Handsome Mary served up were not to be scorned. The roast beef of Old England abounded74; and so did the immortal75 plum-puddings, and the unspeakably capital gooseberry pies. But to finish off with that abominable76 "swipes" almost spoiled all the rest: not that I myself patronized "swipes" but my shipmates did; and every cup I saw them drink, I could not choose but taste in imagination, and even then the flavor was bad.
On Sundays, at dinner-time, as, indeed, on every other day, it was curious to watch the proceedings77 at the sign of the Clipper. The servant girls were running about, mustering78 the various crews, whose dinners were spread, each in a separate apartment; and who were collectively known by the names of their ships.
"Where are the Arethusas?—Here's their beef been smoking this half-hour."—"Fly, Betty, my dear, here come the Splendids."— "Run, Molly, my love; get the salt-cellars for the Highlanders ."—"You Peggy, where's the Siddons' pickle-pat?"—"I say, Judy, are you never coming with that pudding for the Lord Nelsons?"
On week days, we did not fare quite so well as on Sundays; and once we came to dinner, and found two enormous bullock hearts smoking at each end of the Highlanders' table. Jackson was indignant at the outrage79.
He always sat at the head of the table; and this time he squared himself on his bench, and erecting his knife and fork like flag-staffs, so as to include the two hearts between them, he called out for Danby, the boarding-house keeper; for although his wife Mary was in fact at the head of the establishment, yet Danby himself always came in for the fault-findings.
Danby obsequiously80 appeared, and stood in the doorway81, well knowing the philippics that were coming. But he was not prepared for the peroration82 of Jackson's address to him; which consisted of the two bullock hearts, snatched bodily off the dish, and flung at his head, by way of a recapitulation of the preceding arguments. The company then broke up in disgust, and dined elsewhere.
Though I almost invariably attended church on Sunday mornings, yet the rest of the day I spent on my travels; and it was on one of these afternoon strolls, that on passing through St. George's-square, I found myself among a large crowd, gathered near the base of George the Fourth's equestrian83 statue.
The people were mostly mechanics and artisans in their holiday clothes; but mixed with them were a good many soldiers, in lean, lank84, and dinnerless undresses, and sporting attenuated85 rattans. These troops belonged to the various regiments86 then in town. Police officers, also, were conspicuous87 in their uniforms. At first perfect silence and decorum prevailed.
Addressing this orderly throng88 was a pale, hollow-eyed young man, in a snuff-colored surtout, who looked worn with much watching, or much toil89, or too little food. His features were good, his whole air was respectable, and there was no mistaking the fact, that he was strongly in earnest in what he was saying.
In his hand was a soiled, inflammatory-looking pamphlet, from which he frequently read; following up the quotations90 with nervous appeals to his hearers, a rolling of his eyes, and sometimes the most frantic27 gestures. I was not long within hearing of him, before I became aware that this youth was a Chartist.
Presently the crowd increased, and some commotion91 was raised, when I noticed the police officers augmenting92 in number; and by and by, they began to glide93 through the crowd, politely hinting at the propriety94 of dispersing95. The first persons thus accosted96 were the soldiers, who accordingly sauntered off, switching their rattans, and admiring their high-polished shoes. It was plain that the Charter did not hang very heavy round their hearts. For the rest, they also gradually broke up; and at last I saw the speaker himself depart.
I do not know why, but I thought he must be some despairing elder son, supporting by hard toil his mother and sisters; for of such many political desperadoes are made.
That same Sunday afternoon, I strolled toward the outskirts97 of the town, and attracted by the sight of two great Pompey's pillars, in the shape of black steeples, apparently98 rising directly from the soil, I approached them with much curiosity. But looking over a low parapet connecting them, what was my surprise to behold99 at my feet a smoky hollow in the ground, with rocky walls, and dark holes at one end, carrying out of view several lines of iron railways; while far beyond, straight out toward the open country, ran an endless railroad. Over the place, a handsome Moorish100 arch of stone was flung; and gradually, as I gazed upon it, and at the little side arches at the bottom of the hollow, there came over me an undefinable feeling, that I had previously101 seen the whole thing before. Yet how could that be? Certainly, I had never been in Liverpool before: but then, that Moorish arch! surely I remembered that very well. It was not till several months after reaching home in America, that my perplexity upon this matter was cleared away. In glancing over an old number of the Penny Magazine, there I saw a picture of the place to the life; and remembered having seen the same print years previous. It was a representation of the spot where the Manchester railroad enters the outskirts of the town.
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1
lengthy
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| adj.漫长的，冗长的 | |
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twilight
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| n.暮光，黄昏；暮年，晚期，衰落时期 | |
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astronomical
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| adj.天文学的，（数字）极大的 | |
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cape
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| n.海角，岬；披肩，短披风 | |
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latitude
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| n.纬度，行动或言论的自由(范围)，(pl.)地区 | |
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thereby
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| adv.因此，从而 | |
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highlander
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| n.高地的人，苏格兰高地地区的人 | |
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ramble
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| v.漫步，漫谈，漫游；n.漫步，闲谈，蔓延 | |
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noted
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| adj.著名的，知名的 | |
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alleys
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| 胡同，小巷( alley的名词复数 )； 小径 | |
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invoking
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| v.援引( invoke的现在分词 )；行使（权利等）；祈求救助；恳求 | |
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blessing
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| n.祈神赐福；祷告；祝福，祝愿 | |
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chubby
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| adj.丰满的，圆胖的 | |
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impunity
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| n.(惩罚、损失、伤害等的)免除 | |
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standing
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| n.持续，地位；adj.永久的，不动的，直立的，不流动的 | |
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gaping
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| adj.口的；张口的；敞口的；多洞穴的v.目瞪口呆地凝视( gape的现在分词 )；张开，张大 | |
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drawn
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| v.拖，拉，拔出；adj.憔悴的，紧张的 | |
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portico
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| n.柱廊，门廊 | |
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glossy
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| adj.平滑的；有光泽的 | |
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sumptuous
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| adj.豪华的，奢侈的，华丽的 | |
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calves
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| n.(calf的复数)笨拙的男子，腓；腿肚子( calf的名词复数 )；牛犊；腓；小腿肚v.生小牛( calve的第三人称单数 )；（冰川）崩解；生（小牛等），产（犊）；使（冰川）崩解 | |
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relish
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| n.滋味，享受，爱好，调味品；vt.加调味料，享受，品味；vi.有滋味 | |
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marvel
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| vi.(at)惊叹vt.感到惊异；n.令人惊异的事 | |
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laborers
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| n.体力劳动者，工人( laborer的名词复数 )；（熟练工人的）辅助工 | |
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ragged
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| adj.衣衫褴褛的，粗糙的，刺耳的 | |
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frantically
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| ad.发狂地, 发疯地 | |
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frantic
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| adj.狂乱的，错乱的，激昂的 | |
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conjured
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| 用魔术变出( conjure的过去式和过去分词 )； 祈求，恳求； 变戏法； （变魔术般地） 使…出现 | |
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bent
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| n.爱好，癖好；adj.弯的；决心的，一心的 | |
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vistas
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| 长条形景色( vista的名词复数 )； 回顾； 展望； （未来可能发生的）一系列情景 | |
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woe
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| n.悲哀，苦痛，不幸，困难；int.用来表达悲伤或惊慌 | |
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miserable
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| adj.悲惨的，痛苦的；可怜的，糟糕的 | |
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destitute
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| adj.缺乏的；穷困的 | |
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pauperism
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| n.有被救济的资格，贫困 | |
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virtue
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| n.德行，美德；贞操；优点；功效，效力 | |
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steward
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| n.乘务员，服务员；看管人；膳食管理员 | |
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immunities
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| 免除，豁免( immunity的名词复数 )； 免疫力 | |
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stewards
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| （轮船、飞机等的）乘务员( steward的名词复数 )； （俱乐部、旅馆、工会等的）管理员； （大型活动的）组织者； （私人家中的）管家 | |
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mortification
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| n.耻辱，屈辱 | |
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curbs
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| v.限制，克制，抑制( curb的第三人称单数 ) | |
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discriminating
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| a.有辨别能力的 | |
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humbug
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| n.花招，谎话，欺骗 | |
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epitome
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| n.典型，梗概 | |
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edifice
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| n.宏伟的建筑物(如宫殿，教室) | |
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spire
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| n.(教堂)尖顶，尖塔，高点 | |
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erecting
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| v.使直立，竖起( erect的现在分词 )；建立 | |
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disapprove
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| v.不赞成，不同意，不批准 | |
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Christian
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| adj.基督教徒的；n.基督教徒 | |
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solitude
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| n. 孤独; 独居,荒僻之地,幽静的地方 | |
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cardinal
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| n.(天主教的)红衣主教；adj.首要的，基本的 | |
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51
aisles
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| n. (席位间的)通道, 侧廊 | |
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aisle
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| n.（教堂、教室、戏院等里的）过道，通道 | |
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allure
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| n.诱惑力，魅力；vt.诱惑，引诱，吸引 | |
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eloquent
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| adj.雄辩的，口才流利的；明白显示出的 | |
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55
daunted
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| 使（某人）气馁，威吓( daunt的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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costliness
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| 昂贵的 | |
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humbly
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| adv. 恭顺地，谦卑地 | |
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commodious
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| adj.宽敞的；使用方便的 | |
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remarkable
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| adj.显著的，异常的，非凡的，值得注意的 | |
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obstinate
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| adj.顽固的，倔强的，不易屈服的，较难治愈的 | |
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apportion
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| vt.（按比例或计划）分配 | |
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inconvenient
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| adj.不方便的，令人感到麻烦的 | |
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majesty
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| n.雄伟，壮丽，庄严，威严；最高权威，王权 | |
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invoked
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| v.援引( invoke的过去式和过去分词 )；行使（权利等）；祈求救助；恳求 | |
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hush
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| int.嘘，别出声；n.沉默，静寂；v.使安静 | |
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harry
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| vt.掠夺，蹂躏，使苦恼 | |
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buttresses
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| n.扶壁，扶垛( buttress的名词复数 )v.用扶壁支撑，加固( buttress的第三人称单数 ) | |
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winding
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| n.绕，缠，绕组，线圈 | |
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wriggling
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| v.扭动，蠕动，蜿蜒行进( wriggle的现在分词 )；（使身体某一部位）扭动；耍滑不做，逃避（应做的事等）；蠕蠕 | |
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70
benediction
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| n.祝福；恩赐 | |
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canes
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| n.（某些植物，如竹或甘蔗的）茎( cane的名词复数 )；（用于制作家具等的）竹竿；竹杖 | |
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cosy
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| adj.温暖而舒适的，安逸的 | |
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alas
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| int.唉(表示悲伤、忧愁、恐惧等) | |
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abounded
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| v.大量存在，充满，富于( abound的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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immortal
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| adj.不朽的；永生的，不死的；神的 | |
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abominable
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| adj.可厌的，令人憎恶的 | |
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proceedings
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| n.进程，过程，议程；诉讼(程序)；公报 | |
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mustering
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| v.集合，召集，集结（尤指部队）( muster的现在分词 )；（自他人处）搜集某事物；聚集；激发 | |
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outrage
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| n.暴行，侮辱，愤怒；vt.凌辱，激怒 | |
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obsequiously
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doorway
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| n.门口，(喻)入门；门路，途径 | |
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peroration
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| n.（演说等之）结论 | |
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83
equestrian
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| adj.骑马的；n.马术 | |
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84
lank
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| adj.瘦削的；稀疏的 | |
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85
attenuated
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| v.（使）变细( attenuate的过去式和过去分词 )；（使）变薄；（使）变小；减弱 | |
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86
regiments
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| （军队的）团( regiment的名词复数 )； 大量的人或物 | |
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conspicuous
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| adj.明眼的，惹人注目的；炫耀的，摆阔气的 | |
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throng
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| n.人群，群众；v.拥挤，群集 | |
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toil
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| vi.辛劳工作，艰难地行动；n.苦工，难事 | |
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quotations
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| n.引用( quotation的名词复数 )；[商业]行情（报告）；（货物或股票的）市价；时价 | |
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commotion
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| n.骚动，动乱 | |
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augmenting
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| 使扩张 | |
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glide
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| n./v.溜，滑行；(时间)消逝 | |
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propriety
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| n.正当行为；正当；适当 | |
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dispersing
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| adj. 分散的 动词disperse的现在分词形式 | |
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accosted
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| v.走过去跟…讲话( accost的过去式和过去分词 )；跟…搭讪；（乞丐等）上前向…乞讨；（妓女等）勾搭 | |
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outskirts
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| n.郊外，郊区 | |
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98
apparently
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| adv.显然地；表面上，似乎 | |
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behold
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| v.看，注视，看到 | |
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100
moorish
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| adj.沼地的，荒野的，生[住]在沼地的 | |
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101
previously
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| adv.以前，先前（地） | |
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