The poor people of this inn, however, shewed the utmost desire to please. They must have unfortunate tempers indeed, who, observing this, could have shocked them by fretfulness, or an air of dissatisfaction. Besides, if the entertainment had been still more homely7, even those travellers who are accustomed to the greatest delicacies8, might be induced to bear it with patience for one night, from this consideration, That the people of the place, who have just as good a natural right to the luxuries of life as themselves, are obliged to bear it always. Nothing is more apt to raise indignation than to behold9 men repining and fretting,[364] on account of little inconveniencies, in the hearing of those who are bearing much greater every day with cheerfulness. There is a want of sense, as well as a want of temper, in such behaviour. The only use of complaining of hardships to those who cannot relieve them, must be to obtain sympathy; but if those to whom they complain, are suffering the same hardships in a greater degree, what sympathy can those repiners expect? They certainly find none.
Next morning we encountered the Apennines. The fatigue10 of this day’s journey was compensated11 by the beauty and variety of the views among those mountains. On the face of one of the highest, I remarked a small hut, with a garden near it. I was told this was inhabited by an old infirm Hermit12. I could not understand how a person in that condition could scramble13 up and down such a mountain to procure14 for himself the necessaries of life. I was informed, he had not quitted his hermitage[365] for several years, the neighbouring peasants supplying him plentifully15 with all he requires. This man’s reputation for sanctity is very great, and those who take the trouble of carrying him provisions, think themselves well repaid by his prayers.
I imagine I am acquainted with a country where provisions are in greater plenty than in the Apennines; and yet the greatest saint in the nation, who should take up his residence on one of its mountains, would be in great danger of starving, if he depended for his sustenance16 upon the provisions that should be carried up to him in exchange for his prayers.
There are mountains and precipices17 among the Apennines, which do not appear contemptible18 in the eyes even of those who have travelled among the Alps; while on the other hand, those delightful19 plains, contained within the bosom20 of the former, are infinitely21 superior, in beauty and fertility, to the vallies among the latter. We[366] now entered the rich province of Umbria, and soon after arrived at Foligno, a thriving town, in which there is more appearance of industry than in any of the towns we have seen, since we left Ancona; there are considerable manufactures of paper, cloth, and silk. In a convent of Nuns22, is a famous picture by Raphael, generally visited by travellers, and much admired by connoisseurs23.
The situation of this town is peculiarly happy. It stands in a charming valley, laid out in corn-fields and vineyards, interfered24 by mulberry and almond trees, and watered by the river Clitumnus; the view terminating on one side by hills crowned with cities, and on the other by the loftiest mountains of the Apennines. I never experienced such a sudden and agreeable change of climate, as on descending25 from those mountains, in many places, at present, covered with snow; to this pleasant valley of Umbria,
[367]
From Foligno to Vene, the road lies through this fine plain. A little before you come to the post-house at Vene, on the right hand, there is a little building; the front which looks to the valley, is adorned28 with six Corinthian pillars; the two in the middle enriched by a laurel foliage29: on one side, is a crucifix in basso relievo, with vine branches curling around it. On this building, there are some inscriptions30 which mention the resurrection. Some, who think the architecture too fine for the first ages of Christianity, and the Temple too old to have been built since the revival32 of that art, have conjectured33, that this little edifice34 is antique, and originally erected35 by the ancient inhabitants of Umbria, as a temple, in honour of the river God Clitumnus; but, at some subsequent period, converted into a Christian31 chapel36, and the crucifix and inscriptions added after its consecration37. Other very respectable judges[368] think, the style of architecture is by no means pure, but adulterated by meretricious38 ornament39, and worthy40 enough of the first ages of Christianity.
Mr. Addison has given many quotations41 from the Latin poets, in honour of this river, all of which countenance42 the popular opinion with regard to the quality of the water. The breed of white cattle, which gave such a reputation to the river, still remains43 in this country. We saw many of them as we passed, some milk white, but the greatest numbers of a whitish grey. The common people still retain the ancient opinion, with respect to the effect of the water. Spoletto, the capital of Umbria, is situated on a high rock, the ascent44 to which is very steep on all sides. This town retains little appearance of its ancient importance. Keysler says, that, like other paltry45 towns in Italy, it exhibits bombastic46 inscriptions concerning its antiquity47, and many trivial occurrences which have happened there; the only inscription,[369] however, which he quotes, and the only one which I saw, is that over the Porta di Fuga, from which the Carthaginian army is supposed to have been repaired.
ANNIBAL
C?SIS AD THRASYMENUM ROMANIS
URBEM ROMAM INFENSO AGMINE PETENS,
SPOLETO MAGNA SUORUM CLADE REPULSUS,
INSIGNI FUGA PORT? NOMEN FECIT.
I cannot perceive any thing bombastic in this; Livy mentions the fact in his twenty-second book, in the following terms:
Annibal recto itinere per Umbriam usque ad Spoletum venit, inde quum perpopulato agro urbem oppugnare adortus esset, cum magna c?de suorum repulsus, conjectans ex unius coloni? haud nimis prospere tentat? viribus quanta moles48 Roman? urbis esset.
If the inhabitants of the greatest capital in the world had equal authority for their ancestors having repulsed49 such a general as Hannibal, would they not be inclined to[370] receive it as truth, and to transmit it to the latest posterity50?
This town is still supplied with water, by means of an antique aqueduct, one of the most entire, and the highest in Europe. In the centre, where the height is greatest, there is a double arcade51; the other arches diminish in height, as they recede52 from it, towards the sloping sides of the two mountains which this magnificent work unites.
In the cathedral, there is a picture of the Virgin53 by St. Luke; but we had already seen sufficient specimens54 of this saint’s abilities, as a sculptor55 and a painter, and we had not the least curiosity to see any more.
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1 situated | |
adj.坐落在...的,处于某种境地的 | |
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2 expedient | |
adj.有用的,有利的;n.紧急的办法,权宜之计 | |
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3 ascend | |
vi.渐渐上升,升高;vt.攀登,登上 | |
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4 affected | |
adj.不自然的,假装的 | |
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5 victuals | |
n.食物;食品 | |
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6 displeasing | |
不愉快的,令人发火的 | |
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7 homely | |
adj.家常的,简朴的;不漂亮的 | |
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8 delicacies | |
n.棘手( delicacy的名词复数 );精致;精美的食物;周到 | |
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9 behold | |
v.看,注视,看到 | |
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10 fatigue | |
n.疲劳,劳累 | |
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11 compensated | |
补偿,报酬( compensate的过去式和过去分词 ); 给(某人)赔偿(或赔款) | |
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12 hermit | |
n.隐士,修道者;隐居 | |
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13 scramble | |
v.爬行,攀爬,杂乱蔓延,碎片,片段,废料 | |
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14 procure | |
vt.获得,取得,促成;vi.拉皮条 | |
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15 plentifully | |
adv. 许多地,丰饶地 | |
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16 sustenance | |
n.食物,粮食;生活资料;生计 | |
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17 precipices | |
n.悬崖,峭壁( precipice的名词复数 ) | |
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18 contemptible | |
adj.可鄙的,可轻视的,卑劣的 | |
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19 delightful | |
adj.令人高兴的,使人快乐的 | |
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20 bosom | |
n.胸,胸部;胸怀;内心;adj.亲密的 | |
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21 infinitely | |
adv.无限地,无穷地 | |
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22 nuns | |
n.(通常指基督教的)修女, (佛教的)尼姑( nun的名词复数 ) | |
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23 connoisseurs | |
n.鉴赏家,鉴定家,行家( connoisseur的名词复数 ) | |
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24 interfered | |
v.干预( interfere的过去式和过去分词 );调停;妨碍;干涉 | |
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25 descending | |
n. 下行 adj. 下降的 | |
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26 gales | |
龙猫 | |
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27 lavish | |
adj.无节制的;浪费的;vt.慷慨地给予,挥霍 | |
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28 adorned | |
[计]被修饰的 | |
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29 foliage | |
n.叶子,树叶,簇叶 | |
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30 inscriptions | |
(作者)题词( inscription的名词复数 ); 献词; 碑文; 证劵持有人的登记 | |
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31 Christian | |
adj.基督教徒的;n.基督教徒 | |
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32 revival | |
n.复兴,复苏,(精力、活力等的)重振 | |
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33 conjectured | |
推测,猜测,猜想( conjecture的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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34 edifice | |
n.宏伟的建筑物(如宫殿,教室) | |
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35 ERECTED | |
adj. 直立的,竖立的,笔直的 vt. 使 ... 直立,建立 | |
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36 chapel | |
n.小教堂,殡仪馆 | |
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37 consecration | |
n.供献,奉献,献祭仪式 | |
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38 meretricious | |
adj.华而不实的,俗艳的 | |
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39 ornament | |
v.装饰,美化;n.装饰,装饰物 | |
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40 worthy | |
adj.(of)值得的,配得上的;有价值的 | |
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41 quotations | |
n.引用( quotation的名词复数 );[商业]行情(报告);(货物或股票的)市价;时价 | |
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42 countenance | |
n.脸色,面容;面部表情;vt.支持,赞同 | |
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43 remains | |
n.剩余物,残留物;遗体,遗迹 | |
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44 ascent | |
n.(声望或地位)提高;上升,升高;登高 | |
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45 paltry | |
adj.无价值的,微不足道的 | |
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46 bombastic | |
adj.夸夸其谈的,言过其实的 | |
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47 antiquity | |
n.古老;高龄;古物,古迹 | |
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48 moles | |
防波堤( mole的名词复数 ); 鼹鼠; 痣; 间谍 | |
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49 repulsed | |
v.击退( repulse的过去式和过去分词 );驳斥;拒绝 | |
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50 posterity | |
n.后裔,子孙,后代 | |
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51 arcade | |
n.拱廊;(一侧或两侧有商店的)通道 | |
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52 recede | |
vi.退(去),渐渐远去;向后倾斜,缩进 | |
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53 virgin | |
n.处女,未婚女子;adj.未经使用的;未经开发的 | |
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54 specimens | |
n.样品( specimen的名词复数 );范例;(化验的)抽样;某种类型的人 | |
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55 sculptor | |
n.雕刻家,雕刻家 | |
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