I am almost ashamed to tell you, that we did not go to see the famous cataract7, near[372] this town, which is usually visited by travellers, and which, by all accounts, is so worthy8 of their curiosity. Innumerable streams from the highest Apennines, meeting in one channel, form the river Velino, which flows placidly9, for some time, through a plain almost horizontal, and afterwards, when the river becomes more rapid by the contracting and sloping of the channel, the plain terminates of a sudden in a precipice11 three hundred feet high, over which, the river rushing, dashes with such violence against the rocky bottom, that a vast cloud of watery12 smoke is raised all around. The river Velino does not long survive the fall, but broken, groaning13, and foaming14, soon finishes his course in the Nera. Mr. Addison is of opinion, that Virgil had this gulph in his eye when he described the place in the middle of Italy, through which the Fury Alecto descended into Tartarus.
A very heavy rain which fell while we were at Terni, the fatigue15 and difficulty of[373] climbing up the Monte di Marmore, from whence this fall appears to the greatest advantage, and our impatience16 to be at Rome, prevented us from seeing that celebrated17 cataract, which we regretted the less, as we had frequently seen one of the same kind in Scotland, about twelve miles above Hamilton, at a place called Corace, where the river Clyde, falling perpendicular18 from a vast height, produces the same effects, in every respect, unless, that he outlives the accident, and continues his course for near fifty miles before he joins the Atlantic ocean.
The distance from Terni to Narni is about seven miles; the road is uncommonly19 good, and the country on each side delightful20. When we came near Narni, while the chaises proceeded to the town, I walked to take a view of the bridge of Augustus. This stately fabric21 is wholly of marble, and without cement, as many other antique buildings are. Only one of the[374] arches remains22 intire, which is the first on the side of the river where I was; under it there was no water; it is one hundred and fifty feet wide. The next arch, below which the river flows, is twenty feet wider, and has a considerable slope, being higher on the side next the first arch, than on that next the third. The remaining two arches are, in every respect, smaller than the two first. What could be the reason of such ungraceful irregularity in a work, in other respects so magnificent, and upon which so much labour and expence must have been bestowed23, I cannot imagine. It is doubtful, whether there were originally four arches, or only three; for that which is supposed by some to be the basis from which the two lesser24 arches sprung; is thought by others, to be the remains of a square pillar, raised some time after the bridge was built, to support the middle of the third arch; which, on the supposition that there were but three, must have been of a very extraordinary width.
[375]
This fabric is usually called Augustus’s Bridge, and Mr. Addison thinks that without doubt Martial25 alludes26 to it, in the ninety-second Epigram of the seventh book; but some other very judicious27 travellers imagine, it is the remains of an aqueduct, because those arches joined two mountains, and are infinitely28 higher than was necessary for a bridge over the little river which flows under them. It has also been supposed, not without great appearance of probability, that this fabric was originally intended to serve the purposes of both.
As the rain still continued, my curiosity to see this fine ruin procured29 me a severe drenching30: this I received with due resignation, as a punishment for having been intimidated31 by rain, from visiting the fine cascade32 at Terni. It was with great difficulty I got up the hill, by a path which I thought was shorter and easier than the high road; this unfortunately led to no[376] gate. At last, however, I observed a broken part of the wall, over which I immediately clambered into the town. Martial takes notice of the difficulty of access to this town.
Narnia, sulphureo quam gurgite candidus amnis
Circuit, ancipiti vix adeunda Jugo.
The town itself is very poor, and thinly inhabited. It boasts, however, of being the native city of the Emperor Nerva, and some other celebrated men.
The road from Narni to the post-house at Otricoli, is exceeding rough and mountainous. This is a very poor village, but advantageously situated on a rising ground. Between this and the Tiber, at some little distance from the road, there is a considerable tract10 of ground, covered with many loose antique fragments and vaults33: these are generally considered as the ruins of the ancient Ocriculum. We passed along this road early in the morning, and were entertained, great part of the way, with vocal[377] music from the pilgrims, several hordes34 of whom we met near this place, on their return from Rome, where they had been on account of the jubilee35.
The only place of note between Otricoli and Rome, is Civita Castellana. Terni is the last town of the province of Umbria, and Castellana the first of ancient Latium, coming to Rome by the Flaminian way. Castellana is considered, by many antiquarians, as the Fescennium of the ancients; a schoolmaster of which, as we are informed by Livy, by an unexampled instance of wickedness, betrayed a number of the sons of the principal citizens into the power of the Dictator Camillus, at that time besieging36 the place. The generous Roman, equally abhorring37 the treachery and the traitor38, ordered this base man to be stripped, to have his hands tied behind, and to be delivered over to the boys, who, armed with rods, beat him back to Fescennium, and delivered him up to their parents, to be used as they should think he deserved.
[378]
Civita Castellana stands upon a high rock, and must formerly have been a place of great strength, but is now in no very flourishing condition. Many of the towns I have mentioned, lying on the road to Rome, by the Flaminian way, have suffered, at different periods, more than those of any other part of Italy; by the inroads of Visigoths and Huns, as well as by some incursions of a later date.
This, I am convinced, is the only country in the world, where the fields become more desolate39 as you approach the capital. After having traversed the cultivated and fertile vallies of Umbria, one is affected40 with double emotion at beholding41 the deplorable state of poor neglected Latium. For several posts before you arrive at Rome, few villages, little cultivation42, and scarcely any inhabitants, are to be seen. In the Campania of Rome, formerly the best cultivated and best peopled spot in the world, no houses, no trees, no inclosures;[379] nothing but the scattered43 ruins of temples and tombs, presenting the idea of a country depopulated by a pestilence44. All is motionless, silent, and forlorn.
In the midst of these deserted45 fields the ancient Mistress of the World rears her head, in melancholy46 majesty47.
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1 descended | |
a.为...后裔的,出身于...的 | |
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2 situated | |
adj.坐落在...的,处于某种境地的 | |
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3 formerly | |
adv.从前,以前 | |
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4 standing | |
n.持续,地位;adj.永久的,不动的,直立的,不流动的 | |
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5 exuberantly | |
adv.兴高采烈地,活跃地,愉快地 | |
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6 windings | |
(道路、河流等)蜿蜒的,弯曲的( winding的名词复数 ); 缠绕( wind的现在分词 ); 卷绕; 转动(把手) | |
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7 cataract | |
n.大瀑布,奔流,洪水,白内障 | |
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8 worthy | |
adj.(of)值得的,配得上的;有价值的 | |
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9 placidly | |
adv.平稳地,平静地 | |
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10 tract | |
n.传单,小册子,大片(土地或森林) | |
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11 precipice | |
n.悬崖,危急的处境 | |
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12 watery | |
adj.有水的,水汪汪的;湿的,湿润的 | |
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13 groaning | |
adj. 呜咽的, 呻吟的 动词groan的现在分词形式 | |
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14 foaming | |
adj.布满泡沫的;发泡 | |
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15 fatigue | |
n.疲劳,劳累 | |
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16 impatience | |
n.不耐烦,急躁 | |
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17 celebrated | |
adj.有名的,声誉卓著的 | |
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18 perpendicular | |
adj.垂直的,直立的;n.垂直线,垂直的位置 | |
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19 uncommonly | |
adv. 稀罕(极,非常) | |
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20 delightful | |
adj.令人高兴的,使人快乐的 | |
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21 fabric | |
n.织物,织品,布;构造,结构,组织 | |
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22 remains | |
n.剩余物,残留物;遗体,遗迹 | |
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23 bestowed | |
赠给,授予( bestow的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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24 lesser | |
adj.次要的,较小的;adv.较小地,较少地 | |
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25 martial | |
adj.战争的,军事的,尚武的,威武的 | |
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26 alludes | |
提及,暗指( allude的第三人称单数 ) | |
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27 judicious | |
adj.明智的,明断的,能作出明智决定的 | |
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28 infinitely | |
adv.无限地,无穷地 | |
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29 procured | |
v.(努力)取得, (设法)获得( procure的过去式和过去分词 );拉皮条 | |
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30 drenching | |
n.湿透v.使湿透( drench的现在分词 );在某人(某物)上大量使用(某液体) | |
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31 intimidated | |
v.恐吓;威胁adj.害怕的;受到威胁的 | |
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32 cascade | |
n.小瀑布,喷流;层叠;vi.成瀑布落下 | |
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33 vaults | |
n.拱顶( vault的名词复数 );地下室;撑物跳高;墓穴 | |
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34 hordes | |
n.移动着的一大群( horde的名词复数 );部落 | |
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35 jubilee | |
n.周年纪念;欢乐 | |
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36 besieging | |
包围,围困,围攻( besiege的现在分词 ) | |
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37 abhorring | |
v.憎恶( abhor的现在分词 );(厌恶地)回避;拒绝;淘汰 | |
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38 traitor | |
n.叛徒,卖国贼 | |
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39 desolate | |
adj.荒凉的,荒芜的;孤独的,凄凉的;v.使荒芜,使孤寂 | |
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40 affected | |
adj.不自然的,假装的 | |
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41 beholding | |
v.看,注视( behold的现在分词 );瞧;看呀;(叙述中用于引出某人意外的出现)哎哟 | |
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42 cultivation | |
n.耕作,培养,栽培(法),养成 | |
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43 scattered | |
adj.分散的,稀疏的;散步的;疏疏落落的 | |
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44 pestilence | |
n.瘟疫 | |
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45 deserted | |
adj.荒芜的,荒废的,无人的,被遗弃的 | |
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46 melancholy | |
n.忧郁,愁思;adj.令人感伤(沮丧)的,忧郁的 | |
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47 majesty | |
n.雄伟,壮丽,庄严,威严;最高权威,王权 | |
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