Naples was founded by the Greeks. The charming situation they have chosen, is[121] one proof among thousands, of the fine taste of that ingenious people.
The bay is about thirty miles in circumference3, and twelve in diameter; it has been named Crater4, from its supposed resemblance to a bowl. This bowl is ornamented5 with the most beautiful foliage6, with vines; with olive, mulberry, and orange trees; with hills, dales, towns, villas7, and villages.
At the bottom of the bay of Naples, the town is built in the form of a vast amphitheatre, sloping from the hills towards the sea.
If, from the town, you turn your eyes to the east, you see the rich plains leading to mount Vesuvius, and Portici. If you look to the west, you have the Grotto8 of Pausilippo, the mountain on which Virgil’s tomb is placed, and the fields leading to Puzzoli and the coast of Baia. On the north, are the fertile hills, gradually rising from the shore to the Campagna Felice.[122] On the South, is the bay, confined by the two promontories9 of Misenum and Minerva, the view being terminated by the islands Procida, Ischia, and Caprea; and as you ascend10 to the castle of St. Elmo, you have all these objects under your eye at once, with the addition of a great part of the Campagna.
Independent of its happy situation, Naples is a very beautiful city. The style of architecture, it must be confessed, is inferior to what prevails at Rome; but though Naples cannot vie with that city in the number of palaces, or in the grandeur11 and magnificence of the churches, the private houses in general are better built, and are more uniformly convenient; the streets are broader and better paved. No street in Rome equals in beauty the Strada di Toledo at Naples; and still less can any of them be compared with those beautiful streets which are open to the bay. This is the native country of the Zephyrs12; here[123] the excessive heat of the Sun is often tempered with sea breezes, and with gales13, wafting14 the perfumes of the Campagna Felice.
The houses, in general, are five or six stories in height, and flat at the top; on which are placed, numbers of flower vases or fruit trees, in boxes of earth, producing a very gay and agreeable effect.
The fortress15 of St. Elmo is built on a mountain of the same name. The garrison16 stationed here, have the entire command of the town, and could lay it in ashes at pleasure. A little lower, on the same mountain, is a convent of Carthusians. The situation of this convent is as advantageous17 and beautiful as can be imagined; and much expence has been lavished18 to render the building, the apartments, and the gardens, equal to the situation.
To bestow19 great sums of money in adorning20 the retreat of men who have abandoned the world for the express purpose[124] of passing the remainder of their lives in self-denial and mortification21, seems to be very ill judged; and might, on some occasions, counteract22 the design of their retreat. I expressed this sentiment to a Neapolitan lady at Sir W—— H——’s assembly, the evening after I had visited this convent. She said, “that the elegant apartments, the gardens, and all the expensive ornaments23 I had particularised, could not much impede24 a system of self-denial; for they soon became insipid25 to those who had them constantly before their eyes, and proved no compensation for the want of other comforts.” “In that case,” said I, “the whole expence might have been saved, or bestowed26 in procuring27 comforts to others who have made no vows28 of mortification.” “Tolga iddio!” cried the lady, forgetting her former argument, “for none have so good a title to every comfortable and pleasant thing in this world, as those who have renounced29 it, and placed their affections entirely[125] on the next; instead of depriving these sanctified Carthusians of what they already possess, it would be more meritorious30 to give them what they have not.”
“Give them then, said I, what will afford some satisfaction, instead of the luxuries of sculpture, and paintings and architecture, which, as you say, become so soon insipid; let them have enjoyments31 of a different kind. Why should their diet be confined to fish and vegetables? Let them enjoy the pleasures of the table without any limitation. And since they are so very meritorious, why is your sex deprived of the happiness of their conversation, and why are they denied the pleasure which the society of women might afford them?”
“Cristo benedetto!” cried the lady, “You do not understand this matter.—Though none deserve the pleasures of this world, but those who think only[126] on the next; yet none can obtain the joys of the next, who indulge in the pleasures of this.”
“That is unlucky,” said I.
“Unlucky! to be sure it is the most unlucky thing that could have happened, ecco dove mi doleva,” added the lady.
Though Naples is admirably situated32 for commerce, and no kingdom produces the necessaries and luxuries of life in greater profusion33, yet trade is but in a languishing34 condition; the best silks come from Lyons, and the best woollen goods from England.
The chief articles manufactured here, at present, are, silk stockings, soap, snuff boxes of tortoise shells, and of the lava35 of Mount Vesuvius, tables, and ornamental36 furniture, of marble.
They are thought to embroider37 here better than even in France; and their macaroni[127] is preferred to that made in any other part of Italy. The Neapolitans excel also in liqueurs and confections; particularly in one kind of confection, which is sold at a very high price, called Diabolonis. This drug, as you will guess from its name, is of a very hot and stimulating38 nature, and what I should think by no means requisite39 to Neapolitan constitutions.
The inhabitants of this town are computed40 at three hundred and fifty thousand. I make no doubt of their amounting to that number; for though Naples is not one third of the size of London, yet many of the streets here are more crowded than the Strand41. In London and Paris, the people who fill the streets are mere42 passengers, hurrying from place to place on business; and when they choose to converge43, or to amuse themselves, they resort to the public walks or gardens: at Naples, the citizens have fewer avocations44 of business to excite their activity; no public[128] walks, or gardens to which they can resort; and are, therefore, more frequently seen sauntering and conversing45 in the streets, where a great proportion of the poorest sort, for want of habitations, are obliged to spend the night as well as the day. While you sit in your chamber46 at London, or at Paris, the usual noise you hear from the streets, is that of carriages; but at Naples, where they talk with uncommon47 vivacity48, and where whole streets full of talkers are in continual employment the noise of carriages is completely drowned in the aggregated49 clack of human voices. In the midst of all this idleness, fewer riots or outrages50 of any kind happen, than might be expected in a town where the police is far from being strict, and where such multitudes of poor unemployed51 people meet together every day. This partly proceeds from the national character of the Italians; which, in my opinion, is quiet, submissive, and averse52 to riot or sedition53; and partly to the[129] common people being universally sober, and never inflamed55 with strong and spirituous liquors, as they are in the northern countries. Iced water and lemonade are among the luxuries of the lowest vulgar; they are carried about in little barrels, and sold in half-penny’s worth. The half naked lazzarone is often tempted56 to spend the small pittance57 destined58 for the maintenance of his family, on this bewitching beverage59, as the most dissolute of the low people in London spend their wages on gin and brandy; so that the same extravagance which cools the mob of the one city, tends to inflame54 that of the other to acts of excess and brutality60.
There is not, perhaps, a city in the world, with the same number of inhabitants, in which so few contribute to the wealth of the community by useful, or by productive labour, as Naples; but the numbers of priests, monks61, fiddlers, lawyers, nobility, footmen, and lazzaronis,[130] surpass all reasonable proportion; the last alone are computed at thirty or forty thousand. If these poor fellows are idle, it is not their own fault; they are continually running about the streets, as we are told of the artificers of China; offering their service, and begging for employment; and are considered, by many, as of more real utility than any of the classes above mentioned.
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1 Portuguese | |
n.葡萄牙人;葡萄牙语 | |
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2 etiquette | |
n.礼仪,礼节;规矩 | |
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3 circumference | |
n.圆周,周长,圆周线 | |
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4 crater | |
n.火山口,弹坑 | |
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5 ornamented | |
adj.花式字体的v.装饰,点缀,美化( ornament的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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6 foliage | |
n.叶子,树叶,簇叶 | |
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7 villas | |
别墅,公馆( villa的名词复数 ); (城郊)住宅 | |
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8 grotto | |
n.洞穴 | |
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9 promontories | |
n.岬,隆起,海角( promontory的名词复数 ) | |
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10 ascend | |
vi.渐渐上升,升高;vt.攀登,登上 | |
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11 grandeur | |
n.伟大,崇高,宏伟,庄严,豪华 | |
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12 zephyrs | |
n.和风,微风( zephyr的名词复数 ) | |
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13 gales | |
龙猫 | |
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14 wafting | |
v.吹送,飘送,(使)浮动( waft的现在分词 ) | |
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15 fortress | |
n.堡垒,防御工事 | |
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16 garrison | |
n.卫戍部队;驻地,卫戍区;vt.派(兵)驻防 | |
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17 advantageous | |
adj.有利的;有帮助的 | |
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18 lavished | |
v.过分给予,滥施( lavish的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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19 bestow | |
v.把…赠与,把…授予;花费 | |
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20 adorning | |
修饰,装饰物 | |
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21 mortification | |
n.耻辱,屈辱 | |
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22 counteract | |
vt.对…起反作用,对抗,抵消 | |
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23 ornaments | |
n.装饰( ornament的名词复数 );点缀;装饰品;首饰v.装饰,点缀,美化( ornament的第三人称单数 ) | |
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24 impede | |
v.妨碍,阻碍,阻止 | |
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25 insipid | |
adj.无味的,枯燥乏味的,单调的 | |
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26 bestowed | |
赠给,授予( bestow的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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27 procuring | |
v.(努力)取得, (设法)获得( procure的现在分词 );拉皮条 | |
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28 vows | |
誓言( vow的名词复数 ); 郑重宣布,许愿 | |
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29 renounced | |
v.声明放弃( renounce的过去式和过去分词 );宣布放弃;宣布与…决裂;宣布摒弃 | |
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30 meritorious | |
adj.值得赞赏的 | |
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31 enjoyments | |
愉快( enjoyment的名词复数 ); 令人愉快的事物; 享有; 享受 | |
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32 situated | |
adj.坐落在...的,处于某种境地的 | |
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33 profusion | |
n.挥霍;丰富 | |
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34 languishing | |
a. 衰弱下去的 | |
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35 lava | |
n.熔岩,火山岩 | |
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36 ornamental | |
adj.装饰的;作装饰用的;n.装饰品;观赏植物 | |
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37 embroider | |
v.刺绣于(布)上;给…添枝加叶,润饰 | |
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38 stimulating | |
adj.有启发性的,能激发人思考的 | |
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39 requisite | |
adj.需要的,必不可少的;n.必需品 | |
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40 computed | |
adj.[医]计算的,使用计算机的v.计算,估算( compute的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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41 strand | |
vt.使(船)搁浅,使(某人)困于(某地) | |
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42 mere | |
adj.纯粹的;仅仅,只不过 | |
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43 converge | |
vi.会合;聚集,集中;(思想、观点等)趋近 | |
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44 avocations | |
n.业余爱好,嗜好( avocation的名词复数 );职业 | |
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45 conversing | |
v.交谈,谈话( converse的现在分词 ) | |
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46 chamber | |
n.房间,寝室;会议厅;议院;会所 | |
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47 uncommon | |
adj.罕见的,非凡的,不平常的 | |
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48 vivacity | |
n.快活,活泼,精神充沛 | |
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49 aggregated | |
a.聚合的,合计的 | |
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50 outrages | |
引起…的义愤,激怒( outrage的第三人称单数 ) | |
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51 unemployed | |
adj.失业的,没有工作的;未动用的,闲置的 | |
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52 averse | |
adj.厌恶的;反对的,不乐意的 | |
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53 sedition | |
n.煽动叛乱 | |
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54 inflame | |
v.使燃烧;使极度激动;使发炎 | |
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55 inflamed | |
adj.发炎的,红肿的v.(使)变红,发怒,过热( inflame的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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56 tempted | |
v.怂恿(某人)干不正当的事;冒…的险(tempt的过去分词) | |
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57 pittance | |
n.微薄的薪水,少量 | |
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58 destined | |
adj.命中注定的;(for)以…为目的地的 | |
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59 beverage | |
n.(水,酒等之外的)饮料 | |
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60 brutality | |
n.野蛮的行为,残忍,野蛮 | |
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61 monks | |
n.修道士,僧侣( monk的名词复数 ) | |
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