The palace at Casserta was begun in the year 1750, after a plan of Vanvitelli; the work is now carried on under the direction of his son. While the present King of Spain remained at Naples, there were generally about two thousand workmen employed; at present there are about five hundred. It will be finished in a few years, and will then, unquestionably, be one of the most spacious1 and magnificent palaces in Europe. It has been said, that London is too large a capital for the island of Great Britain; and it has been compared to a turgid head[302] placed on an emaciated2 body. The palace of Casserta also seems out of proportion with the revenues of this kingdom. It is not, properly speaking, a head too large for the body; but rather an ornament3, by much too expensive and bulky for either head or body. This palace is situated4 about sixteen miles north from Naples, on the plain where ancient Capua stood. It was thought prudent5 to found a building, on which such sums of money were to be lavished6, at a considerable distance from Mount Vesuvius. It were to be wished, that the contents of the cabinet at Portici were removed from the same dangerous neighbourhood. That he might not be limited in ground for the gardens, may have been his Spanish Majesty7’s motive8 for choosing that his palace should be at a distance from Naples; and that it might not be exposed to insult from an enemy’s fleet, was probably the reason that determined9 him to place it at a distance from the sea.
[303]
This immense building is of a rectangular form, seven hundred and fifty feet English, by five hundred and eighty; about one hundred and twelve feet high, comprehending five habitable stories, which contain such a number of apartments as will accommodate the most numerous court, without any accessary buildings.
The rectangle is divided into four courts, each of about two hundred and fifty-two feet by one hundred and seventy. In each of the two principal fronts, are three corresponding gates, forming three openings, which pierce the whole building. The middle gate forms the entry to a magnificent portico10, through which the coaches drive. In the middle of this, and in the centre of the edifice11, there is a vestibule of an octogonal form, which opens into the four grand courts at four sides of the octogon; two other sides open into the portico, one to the staircase; and, at the eighth side, there is a statue of Hercules,[304] crowned by Victory, with this inscription12,
VIRTUS POST FORTIA FACTA CORONAT.
The grand staircase is adorned13 with the richest marble; the upper vestibule to which you ascend14 by this noble stair, is an octogon also, and surrounded by twenty-four pillars of yellow marble, each of which is of one piece of eighteen feet high, without including the pedestal or capital. From this upper vestibule there are entries into—But I have a notion you are tired of this description, which I assure you is likewise my case. I beg, therefore, you may take it for granted, that the apartments within, particularly their Majesties15, and that destined16 for balls and theatrical17 entertainments, correspond with the magnificence of the external appearance.
Among the workmen employed in finishing this palace and the gardens, there are one hundred and fifty Africans; for[305] as the King of Naples is constantly at war with the Barbary States, he always has a number of their sailors prisoners, all of whom are immediately employed as slaves in the gallies, or at some public work. There are at present at Casserta, about the same number of Christian18 slaves; all of these have been condemned19 to this servitude for some crime, some of them for the greatest of all crimes; they are, however, better clothed and fed than the Africans. This is done, no doubt, in honour of the Christian religion, and to demonstrate that Christians20, even after they have been found guilty of the blackest crimes, are worthier21 men, and more deserving of lenity, than Mahometan prisoners, however innocent they may be in all other respects.
The gardens belonging to this palace are equally extensive and magnificent. A great number of fine statues, most of them copies of the best antique, are kept in a storehouse till the gardens are finished,[306] when they will be placed in them. The largest and finest elephant I ever saw is here at present; he is kept by African slaves: they seem to know how to manage him perfectly22; he is well thriven, and goes through a number of tricks and evolutions with much docility23 and judgment24.
In the garden, there is an artificial water and island. This, if one may venture to say so, seems a little injudicious; it brings to our memory the bay of Naples, with its islands, a recollection by no means favourable25 to this royal contrivance. In this island there is a kind of a castle, regularly fortified26, with a ditch around it, and ramparts, bastions, sally-ports, &c. &c. and a numerous train of artillery27, some of them nine or ten ouncers. I no sooner entered this fort, than I wished that Uncle Toby and Corporal Trim had been of our party; it would have charmed the soul of the worthy28 veteran and his faithful servant.
I asked the man who attended us, What he imagined this fortification was intended for?—Sir H—— F—— said, “The cannon29 were certainly designed against the frogs, who were continually attempting to scale the ramparts from the ditch.”—I asked again, What was the real design of erecting30 this fort? The man answered, stretching out his arms, and making as wide a circle with them as he could, “Tutto, tutto per il sollazo del Re.” “Yes,” said I, “it is surely in the highest degree reasonable, that not only this fort, but the whole kingdom, should be appropriated to the amusement of his Majesty.”—“Certo,” replied the man. I wished to see how far the fellow’s liberality would go—“Not only this kingdom,” continued I, “but all Europe would be highly honoured in contributing to the amusement of his Majesty.” “Certo, certo,” said the man.
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1 spacious | |
adj.广阔的,宽敞的 | |
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2 emaciated | |
adj.衰弱的,消瘦的 | |
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3 ornament | |
v.装饰,美化;n.装饰,装饰物 | |
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4 situated | |
adj.坐落在...的,处于某种境地的 | |
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5 prudent | |
adj.谨慎的,有远见的,精打细算的 | |
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6 lavished | |
v.过分给予,滥施( lavish的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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7 majesty | |
n.雄伟,壮丽,庄严,威严;最高权威,王权 | |
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8 motive | |
n.动机,目的;adv.发动的,运动的 | |
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9 determined | |
adj.坚定的;有决心的 | |
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10 portico | |
n.柱廊,门廊 | |
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11 edifice | |
n.宏伟的建筑物(如宫殿,教室) | |
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12 inscription | |
n.(尤指石块上的)刻印文字,铭文,碑文 | |
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13 adorned | |
[计]被修饰的 | |
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14 ascend | |
vi.渐渐上升,升高;vt.攀登,登上 | |
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15 majesties | |
n.雄伟( majesty的名词复数 );庄严;陛下;王权 | |
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16 destined | |
adj.命中注定的;(for)以…为目的地的 | |
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17 theatrical | |
adj.剧场的,演戏的;做戏似的,做作的 | |
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18 Christian | |
adj.基督教徒的;n.基督教徒 | |
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19 condemned | |
adj. 被责难的, 被宣告有罪的 动词condemn的过去式和过去分词 | |
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20 Christians | |
n.基督教徒( Christian的名词复数 ) | |
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21 worthier | |
应得某事物( worthy的比较级 ); 值得做某事; 可尊敬的; 有(某人或事物)的典型特征 | |
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22 perfectly | |
adv.完美地,无可非议地,彻底地 | |
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23 docility | |
n.容易教,易驾驶,驯服 | |
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24 judgment | |
n.审判;判断力,识别力,看法,意见 | |
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25 favourable | |
adj.赞成的,称赞的,有利的,良好的,顺利的 | |
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26 fortified | |
adj. 加强的 | |
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27 artillery | |
n.(军)火炮,大炮;炮兵(部队) | |
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28 worthy | |
adj.(of)值得的,配得上的;有价值的 | |
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29 cannon | |
n.大炮,火炮;飞机上的机关炮 | |
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30 erecting | |
v.使直立,竖起( erect的现在分词 );建立 | |
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