We left Dumbarton at noon, taking the rail to Balloch, and the steamer to the head of Loch Lomond.
Wild mountain scenery is not very good to describe, nor do I think any distinct impressions are ever conveyed by such attempts; so I mean to be brief in what I saw about this part of our tour, especially as I suspect that I have said whatever I knew how to say in the record of my former visit to the Highlands. As for Loch Lomond, it lies amidst very striking scenery, being poured in among the gorges10 of steep and lofty mountains, which nowhere stand aside to give it room, but, on the contrary, do their best to shut it in. It is everywhere narrow, compared with its length of thirty miles; but it is the beauty of a lake to be of no greater width than to allow of the scenery of one of its shores being perfectly11 enjoyed from the other. The scenery of the Highlands, so far as I have seen it, cannot properly be called rich, but stern and impressive, with very hard outlines, which are unsoftened, mostly, by any foliage12, though at this season they are green to their summits. They have hardly flesh enough to cover their bones,—hardly earth enough to lie over their rocky substance,—as may be seen by the minute variety,—the notched13 and jagged appearance of the profile of their sides and tops; this being caused by the scarcely covered rocks wherewith these great hills are heaped together.
Our little steamer stopped at half a dozen places on its voyage up the lake, most of them being stations where hotels have been established. Morally, the Highlands must have been more completely sophisticated by the invention of railways and steamboats than almost any other part of the world; but physically14 it can have wrought15 no great change. These mountains, in their general aspect, must be very much the same as they were thousands of years ago; for their sides never were capable of cultivation16, nor even with such a soil and so bleak17 an atmosphere could they have been much more richly wooded than we see them now. They seem to me to be among the unchangeable things of nature, like the sea and sky; but there is no saying what use human ingenuity18 may hereafter put them to. At all events, I have no doubt in the world that they will go out of fashion in due time; for the taste for mountains and wild scenery is, with most people, an acquired taste, and it was easy to see to-day that nine people in ten care nothing about them. One group of gentlemen and ladies—at least, men and women—spent the whole time in listening to a trial for murder, which was read aloud by one of their number from a newspaper. I rather imagine that a taste for trim gardens is the most natural and universal taste as regards landscape. But perhaps it is necessary for the health of the human mind and heart that there should be a possibility of taking refuge in what is wild and uncontaminated by any meddling19 of man's hand, and so it has been ordained20 that science shall never alter the aspect of the sky, whether stern, angry, or beneficent,— nor of the awful sea, either in calm or tempest,—nor of these rude Highlands. But they will go out of general fashion, as I have said, and perhaps the next fashionable taste will be for cloud land,—that is, looking skyward, and observing the wonderful variety of scenery, that now constantly passes unnoticed, among the clouds.
At the head of the lake, we found that there was only a horse-cart to convey our luggage to the hotel at Inverannan, and that we ourselves must walk, the distance being two miles. It had sprinkled occasionally during our voyage, but was now sunshiny, and not excessively warm; so we set forth21 contentedly22 enough, and had an agreeable walk along an almost perfectly level road; for it is one of the beauties of these hills, that they descend23 abruptly24 down, instead of undulating away forever. There were lofty heights on each side of us, but not so lofty as to have won a distinctive25 name; and adown their sides we could see the rocky pathways of cascades26, which, at this season, are either quite dry, or mere27 trickles28 of a rill. The hills and valleys abound29 in streams, sparkling through pebbly30 beds, and forming here and there a dark pool; and they would be populous31 with trout32 if all England, with one fell purpose, did not come hither to fish them. A fisherman must find it difficult to gratify his propensities33 in these days; for even the lakes and streams in Norway are now preserved. J——-, by the way, threatens ominously34 to be a fisherman. He rode the latter portion of the way to the hotel on the luggage-cart; and when we arrived, we found that he had already gone off to catch fish, or to attempt it (for there is as much chance of his catching35 a whale as a trout), in a mountain stream near the house. I went in search of him, but without success, and was somewhat startled at the depth and blackness of some of the pools into which the stream settled itself and slept. Finally, he came in while we were at dinner. We afterwards walked out with him, to let him play at fishing again, and discovered on the bank of the stream a wonderful oak, with as many as a dozen holes springing either from close to the ground or within a foot or two of it, and looking like twelve separate trees, at least, instead of one.
点击收听单词发音
1 pier | |
n.码头;桥墩,桥柱;[建]窗间壁,支柱 | |
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2 antiquity | |
n.古老;高龄;古物,古迹 | |
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3 fully | |
adv.完全地,全部地,彻底地;充分地 | |
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4 ascends | |
v.上升,攀登( ascend的第三人称单数 ) | |
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5 obtusely | |
adv.钝地,圆头地 | |
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6 quaint | |
adj.古雅的,离奇有趣的,奇怪的 | |
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7 mansion | |
n.大厦,大楼;宅第 | |
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8 turrets | |
(六角)转台( turret的名词复数 ); (战舰和坦克等上的)转动炮塔; (摄影机等上的)镜头转台; (旧时攻城用的)塔车 | |
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9 standing | |
n.持续,地位;adj.永久的,不动的,直立的,不流动的 | |
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10 gorges | |
n.山峡,峡谷( gorge的名词复数 );咽喉v.(用食物把自己)塞饱,填饱( gorge的第三人称单数 );作呕 | |
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11 perfectly | |
adv.完美地,无可非议地,彻底地 | |
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12 foliage | |
n.叶子,树叶,簇叶 | |
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13 notched | |
a.有凹口的,有缺口的 | |
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14 physically | |
adj.物质上,体格上,身体上,按自然规律 | |
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15 wrought | |
v.引起;以…原料制作;运转;adj.制造的 | |
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16 cultivation | |
n.耕作,培养,栽培(法),养成 | |
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17 bleak | |
adj.(天气)阴冷的;凄凉的;暗淡的 | |
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18 ingenuity | |
n.别出心裁;善于发明创造 | |
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19 meddling | |
v.干涉,干预(他人事务)( meddle的现在分词 ) | |
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20 ordained | |
v.任命(某人)为牧师( ordain的过去式和过去分词 );授予(某人)圣职;(上帝、法律等)命令;判定 | |
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21 forth | |
adv.向前;向外,往外 | |
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22 contentedly | |
adv.心满意足地 | |
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23 descend | |
vt./vi.传下来,下来,下降 | |
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24 abruptly | |
adv.突然地,出其不意地 | |
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25 distinctive | |
adj.特别的,有特色的,与众不同的 | |
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26 cascades | |
倾泻( cascade的名词复数 ); 小瀑布(尤指一连串瀑布中的一支); 瀑布状物; 倾泻(或涌出)的东西 | |
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27 mere | |
adj.纯粹的;仅仅,只不过 | |
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28 trickles | |
n.细流( trickle的名词复数 );稀稀疏疏缓慢来往的东西v.滴( trickle的第三人称单数 );淌;使)慢慢走;缓慢移动 | |
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29 abound | |
vi.大量存在;(in,with)充满,富于 | |
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30 pebbly | |
多卵石的,有卵石花纹的 | |
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31 populous | |
adj.人口稠密的,人口众多的 | |
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32 trout | |
n.鳟鱼;鲑鱼(属) | |
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33 propensities | |
n.倾向,习性( propensity的名词复数 ) | |
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34 ominously | |
adv.恶兆地,不吉利地;预示地 | |
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35 catching | |
adj.易传染的,有魅力的,迷人的,接住 | |
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