I suspect the American clouds are more picturesque12 than those of Great Britain, whatever our mountains may be; at least, I remember the Berkshire hills looking grander, under the influence of mist and cloud, than the Highlands did to-day. Our clouds seem to be denser13 and heavier, and more decided14, and form greater contrasts of light and shade. I have remarked in England that the cloudy firmament15, even on a day of settled rain, always appears thinner than those I had been accustomed to at home, so as to deceive me with constant expectations of better weather. It has been the same to-day.
Whenever I looked upward, I thought it might be going to clear up; but, instead of that, it began to rain more in earnest after midday, and at half past two we left Inverannan in a smart shower. At the head of the lake, we took the steamer, with the rain pouring more heavily than ever, and landed at Inversnaid under the same dismal16 auspices17. We left a very good hotel behind us, and have come to another that seems also good. We are more picturesquely18 situated19 at this spot than at Inverannan, our hotel being within a short distance of the lake shore, with a glen just across the water, which will doubtless be worth looking at when the mist permits us to see it. A good many tourists were standing20 about the door when we arrived, and looked at us with the curiosity of idle and weather-bound people. The lake is here narrow, but a hundred fathoms21 deep; so that a great part of the height of the mountains which beset22 it round is hidden beneath its surface.
July 4th.—This morning opened still misty, but with a more hopeful promise than yesterday, and when I went out, after breakfast, there were gleams of sunshine here and there on the hillsides, falling, one did not exactly see how, through the volumes of cloud. Close beside the hotel of Inversnaid is the waterfall; all night, my room being on that side of the house, I had heard its voice, and now I ascended23 beside it to a point where it is crossed by a wooden bridge. There is thence a view, upward and downward, of the most striking descents of the river, as I believe they call it, though it is but a mountain-stream, which tumbles down an irregular and broken staircase in its headlong haste to reach the lake. It is very picturesque, however, with its ribbons of white foam25 over the precipitous steps, and its deep black pools, overhung by black rocks, which reverberate26 the rumble27 of the falling water. J——- and I ascended a little distance along the cascade28, and then turned aside; he going up the hill, and I taking a path along its side which gave me a view across the lake. I rather think this particular stretch of Loch Lomond, in front of Inversnaid, is the most beautiful lake and mountain view that I have ever seen. It is so shut in that you can see nothing beyond, nor would suspect anything more to exist than this watery29 vale among the hills; except that, directly opposite, there is the beautiful glen of Invernglass, which winds away among the feet of Ben Crook30, Ben Ein, Ben Vain, and Ben Voirlich, standing mist-inwreathed together. The mists, this morning, had a very soft and beautiful effect, and made the mountains tenderer than I have hitherto felt them to be; and they lingered about their heads like morning-dreams, flitting and retiring, and letting the sunshine in, and snatching it away again. My wife came up, and we enjoyed it together, till the steamer came smoking its pipe along the loch, stopped to land some passengers, and steamed away again. While we stood there, a Highlander31 passed by us, with a very dark tartan, and bare shanks, most enormously calved. I presume he wears the dress for the sole purpose of displaying those stalwart legs; for he proves to be no genuine Gael, but a manufacturer, who has a shooting-box, or a share in one, on the hill above the hotel.
We now engaged a boat, and were rowed to Rob Roy's cave, which is perhaps half a mile distant up the lake. The shores look much more striking from a rowboat, creeping along near the margin32, than from a steamer in the middle of the loch; and the ridge24, beneath which Rob's cave lies, is precipitous with gray rocks, and clothed, too, with thick foliage33. Over the cave itself there is a huge ledge34 of rock, from which immense fragments have tumbled down, ages and ages ago, and fallen together in such a way as to leave a large irregular crevice35 in Rob Roy's cave. We scrambled36 up to its mouth by some natural stairs, and scrambled down into its depths by the aid of a ladder. I suppose I have already described this hole in the record of my former visit. Certainly, Rob Roy, and Robert Bruce, who is said to have inhabited it before him, were not to be envied their accommodations; yet these were not so very intolerable when compared with a Highland10 cabin, or with cottages such as Burns lived in.
J——- had chosen to remain to fish. On our return from the cave, we found that he had caught nothing; but just as we stepped into the boat, a fish drew his float far under water, and J——— tugging37 at one end of the line, and the fish at the other, the latter escaped, with the hook in his month. J——— avers38 that he saw the fish, and gives its measurement as about eighteen inches; but the fishes that escape us are always of tremendous size. The boatman thought, however, that it might have been a pike.
点击收听单词发音
1 misty | |
adj.雾蒙蒙的,有雾的 | |
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2 rugged | |
adj.高低不平的,粗糙的,粗壮的,强健的 | |
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3 enveloped | |
v.包围,笼罩,包住( envelop的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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4 drizzle | |
v.下毛毛雨;n.毛毛雨,蒙蒙细雨 | |
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5 scotch | |
n.伤口,刻痕;苏格兰威士忌酒;v.粉碎,消灭,阻止;adj.苏格兰(人)的 | |
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6 premises | |
n.建筑物,房屋 | |
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7 intervals | |
n.[军事]间隔( interval的名词复数 );间隔时间;[数学]区间;(戏剧、电影或音乐会的)幕间休息 | |
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8 monotonous | |
adj.单调的,一成不变的,使人厌倦的 | |
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9 rivulets | |
n.小河,小溪( rivulet的名词复数 ) | |
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10 highland | |
n.(pl.)高地,山地 | |
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11 countless | |
adj.无数的,多得不计其数的 | |
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12 picturesque | |
adj.美丽如画的,(语言)生动的,绘声绘色的 | |
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13 denser | |
adj. 不易看透的, 密集的, 浓厚的, 愚钝的 | |
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14 decided | |
adj.决定了的,坚决的;明显的,明确的 | |
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15 firmament | |
n.苍穹;最高层 | |
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16 dismal | |
adj.阴沉的,凄凉的,令人忧郁的,差劲的 | |
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17 auspices | |
n.资助,赞助 | |
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18 picturesquely | |
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19 situated | |
adj.坐落在...的,处于某种境地的 | |
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20 standing | |
n.持续,地位;adj.永久的,不动的,直立的,不流动的 | |
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21 fathoms | |
英寻( fathom的名词复数 ) | |
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22 beset | |
v.镶嵌;困扰,包围 | |
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23 ascended | |
v.上升,攀登( ascend的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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24 ridge | |
n.山脊;鼻梁;分水岭 | |
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25 foam | |
v./n.泡沫,起泡沫 | |
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26 reverberate | |
v.使回响,使反响 | |
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27 rumble | |
n.隆隆声;吵嚷;v.隆隆响;低沉地说 | |
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28 cascade | |
n.小瀑布,喷流;层叠;vi.成瀑布落下 | |
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29 watery | |
adj.有水的,水汪汪的;湿的,湿润的 | |
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30 crook | |
v.使弯曲;n.小偷,骗子,贼;弯曲(处) | |
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31 highlander | |
n.高地的人,苏格兰高地地区的人 | |
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32 margin | |
n.页边空白;差额;余地,余裕;边,边缘 | |
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33 foliage | |
n.叶子,树叶,簇叶 | |
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34 ledge | |
n.壁架,架状突出物;岩架,岩礁 | |
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35 crevice | |
n.(岩石、墙等)裂缝;缺口 | |
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36 scrambled | |
v.快速爬行( scramble的过去式和过去分词 );攀登;争夺;(军事飞机)紧急起飞 | |
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37 tugging | |
n.牵引感v.用力拉,使劲拉,猛扯( tug的现在分词 ) | |
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38 avers | |
v.断言( aver的第三人称单数 );证实;证明…属实;作为事实提出 | |
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