Our only information as to the hotels of Connemara had been gathered from a gentleman whose experience dated some thirty years back. He told us that on arriving at the hotel to which fate had{42} consigned8 him, his modest request for something more substantial than bread and whisky had been received with ill-concealed consternation9. A forlorn hope of children was sent forth10 to find and hunt in a chicken for his dinner; he had watched the search, the chase, the out-man?uvring of the wily victim; he had heard, tempered by a single plank11 door, its death screech12 in the kitchen, and he had even gone the length of eating it, when it was at last served up on a kitchen-plate, brown and shrivelled as “She” in her last moments, and boiled with a little hot water as its only sauce. As to the bedrooms, our friend had been almost more discouraging. He said that while he was dining he heard a trampling13 of feet and the moving of some heavy body in the passage. The door opened, and a feather bed bulged14 through the narrow doorway15 into the room, and was spread on the floor by the table. It was then explained that, as he had asked for dinner and a bed, sure there they were for him, and they were elegant clean feathers, and he should have them for eightpence a pound. With{43} some difficulty the traveller made them understand that, though he meant to carry the dinner away with him, he had no such intentions with regard to the bed; and after a more lucid16 setting forth of his requirements, his host and hostess grasped the position. He was taken into a room which was quite filled by two immense four-post beds, and having been given to understand that one was reserved for domestic requirements, he was offered the other. He was on the point of accepting this couch when a snore arose from its depths.
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A FISHERMAN AT RECESS.
“Ah, sure, that’s only the priest,” said the lady of the house; “and he’s the qui’test man ever ye seen. God bless him! He’ll not disturb ye at all.” This was our friend’s experience, and though possibly it had gained flavour and body with age, it had, at all{44} events, made us look forward with a fearful interest to what might be our lot in Connemara.
But the first vision of the long Recess dinner-table dissipated all our hopes of the comic squalor that is endured gladly for the sake of its literary value, and I may admit that the regret with which my cousin and I affected17 to eat our soup and pursue our dinner through its orderly five or six courses was not altogether sincere. From one point of view it might have been called a fish dinner, as from clear soup, to raspberries one topic alone filled the mouths of the diners—the outwitting of the wiles18 of trout and salmon19. There was a reading-party of Oxford20 men, their blazers glowing rainbow-hued among the murky21 shooting coats of the other diners; there were young curates, and aged23" target="_blank">middle-aged22 majors, and elderly gentlemen—to be an elderly gentleman amounts to a profession in itself—and all, without exception or intermission, talked of fish and fishing. Not to talk to the comrade of your travels at a table d’h?te is an admission of failure and incapacity, so much so that{45} rather than sit silent, I would if need were, repeat portions of the Church Catechism to my friend in a low conversational24 voice. My cousin and I have seldom been forced to this extreme, and on this occasion we kept up the semblance25 of a cultured agreeability to one another in a manner that surprised ourselves. But the volume of discussion raging round us overwhelmed us in the end. We felt the Academy and the jennet to be alike an impertinence; we faltered26 and became silent.
Opposite to us sat one of the most whole-souled of the elderly gentlemen, with a face of the colour and glossy27 texture28 of Aspinall’s Royal Mail red enamel29, in vigorous conversation with a callow youth in a pink blazer, one of whose eyes was closed by midge-bites; and, though the general chorus might rise and wane30 in the long intervals31 between the courses, their strident bass32 and piping tenor33 sustained an unflagging duet.
“I assure you, my dear sir,” protested the elderly gentleman, earnestly, with an almost pathetic oblivion{46} of the difference in age between him and his neighbour, “it is not a matter of a fly with these Glendalough trout. I have seen a man fail repeatedly with a certain butcher, and immediately afterwards the same butcher, put pleasantly to a fish, you understand, rose him at once.”
“H’m,” returned the Pink Blazer, gloomily, receiving this, to us, surprising statement, with perfect calm, “my experience—and I’ve fished these lakes for years—is that a full-bodied Jock Scott”—but we will not betray our ignorance by trying to expound34 second-hand35 the profundities36 of the Pink Blazer. When they had been given to the world, he hid his little midge-bitten face in a tumbler of shandygaff, while his aged companion gravely continued the argument.
There were only two or three other ladies at the table, and they evidently had, by long residence in the hotel, been reduced to assuming an interest in the prevailing38 topic, which we found hard to believe was genuine. They may, of course, have been enthusiasts39, but their looks belied40 them.{47}
Next morning we were awakened41 by the babble42 of fishermen in the hall, then the rattle43 of cars on the gravel37 told that they had started on their daily business, and when at a subsequent period we came down to breakfast, we found ourselves alone, and the hotel generally in a state of peaceful lethargy. It was, so we had heard excited voices in the hall proclaiming, a splendid day for fishing. This meant that when we looked out of the window we saw two blurred44 shadows that we believed to be mountains, and heard the rushings of over-fed streams, which, thanks to the mist, were quite invisible. But the hotel weather-glass stood high, and at ten o’clock we were hopeful; at eleven we were despairing; at twelve we were reckless, and we went to our room to get ready for a walk. We have hitherto omitted all reference to one important item of our equipment, and even now, remembering that we were travelling in a proclaimed district, I mention with bated breath the fact that my second cousin insisted on taking an ancient and rusty45 revolver with her. She had secretly{48} purchased a box of cartridges46, weighing several pounds, and at the last moment she had requested me to stow this armoury in the travelling-bag—“In case of mad dogs and things on the road,” she said. The pistol, in its leather case, I consented to, but the tin box of ammunition48 was intolerable, and we compromised by putting six cartridges into an “Easy Hair Curler” box, which really might have been made for them. So far there had been no occasion to use it, but now, as my cousin struggled into her mackintosh, she remarked tentatively, “Don’t you think this would be a good day for the revolver?”
I said I was not much of a judge, but she might bring it if she liked; and having secreted49 it and a few “easy hair curlers” in her mackintosh pocket, she was ready for the road.
We paused in the hall for a last vengeful look at the barometer50, which still stood cheerfully at Set Fair (we believe its constructor to have been a confirmed fisherman), and at the door we encountered the two hotel dogs—a large silky black creature of the breed{49} that is generally selected to adorn51 penwipers, and a smirking52 fox-terrier, with polite, and even brilliant manners of a certain flashy hotel sort.
“Would they come for a walk with the ladies?” said I, my voice assuming the peculiar53 drivelling tone supposed to be attractive to dogs.
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THE TWO HOTEL DOGS.
“Come along, then!” I said, still more persuasively56 adding, as I stepped out into the thick fine mist, “Cats!{50}”
The amber eyes closed, and their owner curled into an inky heap with a slumbrous growl57; while the fox-terrier, having struck a dashing attitude to keep up his character as a sportsman, affected to believe that the cats I referred to were in the kitchen, and hurried off in that direction. We were snubbed; and we went forth reflecting on the demoralising effect of hotel life. Its ever-changing society and friendships of an hour had turned the penwiper into an ill-mannered cynic, and the fox-terrier into an effete58 and blasé loafer. Thus moralising, we splashed along the road, past the little post and telegraph office, where you write your telegrams in an arbour of roses, and post your letters between the sprays of clematis, and struck gallantly59 forward, with the telegraph posts, along the Clifden road. Glendalough lake lay on our left hand, and the bare mountains towered up on our right—at least, we were given to understand by the guide-books and the waiter that they towered, the mist allowing us no opportunity of judging for ourselves. Across the lake we saw the Glendalough{51} hotel among the woods that came down to the water’s edge, and on it—we allude60 to the lake—were the boats of some of the maniacs61 who had left their comfortable asylum62 in the grey of the morning. We did not see them catching63 any fish; in fact, we have been forced to the conclusion that we had some malign64 influence on the anglers of Connemara, for, though we have watched them long and often, we have never seen so much as a rise.
We left the main road at the end of the lake, and turned into one running in another direction. It was, like every Connemara road, good and level, and in perfect order. Like all the others, too, it disdained65 fence or protection of any kind, unless an occasional deep ditch or lake on each side can be called a reassurance66 to the driver. Here and there on the road the little black demon67 cattle were standing68 disgustedly about, declining to eat the wet grass among the wetter heather, and concentrating all their attention on us in a manner that, taken in connection with the most villainous expression of countenance69, and horns{52} like Malay Krisses, made it advisable to throw stones at them while there was yet time. They at once withdrew, recognising the fact that is early implanted in the mind of every known Irish animal, that sermons in stones are unanswerable. We had got on to a long stretch of bog70 road, bounded only by the vaguely71 suggestive mist, and we were beginning to feel the ardour for a long walk awakening72 in us, when we heard a strange yelping73 on the road behind us, and looking back, saw a large brindled74 bulldog advancing out of the mist at a lumbering75 trot76. No one was with him; a short piece of rope hung round his collar, and his aspect altogether was so terrific that my cousin and I again provided ourselves with the national weapon, and stood discreetly77 aside to let him pass. He instantly stopped and stared at us in what seemed a very threatening manner.
“Perhaps he’s mad!” I suggested. “Where’s the gun?”
“In my pocket,” returned my cousin in a low voice “and I can’t get it out. It’s stuck.{53}”
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“NOW!”
{54}
{55}
“Well, you’d better hurry,” I said, “for he’s coming.”
The bulldog was moving slowly towards us, uttering strange grunts78, and looking excitedly round at the cattle, who were beginning to close in on us and him. My cousin with one strenuous79 effort ripped the pocket off her mackintosh.
“I’ve got it at last!” she panted, putting in a cartridge47 with trembling fingers and cocking the pistol. “It’s awfully80 stiff, and I know it throws high, but anyhow, it will frighten him—I don’t really want to hit him.”
“For goodness’ sake wait till I get behind you,” I replied. “Now!”
There was a report like a cannon81, and I saw my cousin’s arm jerk heavenwards, as if hailing a cab. The next moment the cattle were flying to the four winds of heaven, and the bulldog, far from being alarmed or hurt, was streaking82 through the heather in hot pursuit of the largest cow of the herd83.
This was a more appalling84 result than we could{56} possibly have anticipated. Not only had we failed to intimidate85, but we had positively86 instigated87 him to crime.
“He’s used to guns,” I said. “He thinks we are cow-shooting.”
In another instant the bulldog had overtaken his prey89, and the next, our knees tottering90 under us with horror, we saw him swinging from her nose by his teeth, while her bellowings rent the skies. Back she came down the hill, flinging her head from side to side, while the bulldog adhered with limpet tenacity91 to her nose, and, jumping the bog-ditch like a hunter, she set off down the road, followed by a trumpeting92 host of friends and sympathisers who had re-gathered from the mountain-side on hearing her cries. The whole adventure had been forced upon us so suddenly and unexpectedly that we had no time to argue away the illogical feeling that we were responsible for the bulldog’s iniquities93. I see now that the sensible thing{57} would have been to have gone and hid about among the rocks till it was all over. But that course did not occur to us till afterwards. As a matter of fact, my cousin crammed94 the pistol into her uninjured pocket, I filled my hands with stones, and we pursued at our best speed, seeing from time to time above the heaving backs and brandished95 tails of the galloping96 cattle the dark body of the bulldog as he was swung into the air over his victim’s head. Suddenly the whole cortége wheeled, and flourished up a bohireen that led to a cottage, and in the quick turn the cow fell on her knees, and lay there exhausted97, with the bulldog prone98 beside her, exhausted too, but still holding on. The presumable owner of the cow arrived on the scene at the same instant that we did.
“Call off yer dog!” he roared, in a fearful voice.
“He’s not ours!” we panted; “but come on, and we’ll beat him off!” the bulldog’s evident state of collapse99 encouraging us to this gallantry.
The man’s only reply was to pick up a large stone, and heave it at the dog. It struck his brindled ribs{58} a resounding100 blow, but he was too much blown to bear malice101 satisfactorily; to our deep relief he crawled to his feet, slunk away past us on to the main road, and, setting off at a limping trot in the direction from which he had come, presently vanished into the mist.
The man stooped down and examined the poor cow’s torn and bleeding nose, and she lay, wild-eyed, with heaving sides, at our feet.
“That the divil may blisther the man that owns him!” he said; “and if he isn’t your dog, what call have you taking him out to be running my cows?”
“We met him on the road,” we protested. “We couldn’t help his following us.”
“Aha! thin it’s one of them dirty little fellows of officers that has the fishing lodge102 below that he belongs to!” said the man. “I heard a shot awhile ago, and ye may b’lieve me I’ll have the law o’ them.”
We exchanged guilty glances.
“Yes; I heard a shot, too,” I said nervously103.{59} “Well, I—a—I think we must be getting on now. It’s getting late, and—a—I hope the cow isn’t very bad. Anyhow”—my voice sinking into the indistinct mumble104 that usually accompanies the benefaction—“here’s something to get soft food for her till her nose gets well.”
The ambition for the long walk was dead. With more hurried good wishes and regrets we wished the man good evening, and so home, much shattered.
P.S.—We should like to meet the owner of that bulldog.
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收听单词发音
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1
trout
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| n.鳟鱼；鲑鱼(属) | |
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specimens
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| n.样品( specimen的名词复数 )；范例；（化验的）抽样；某种类型的人 | |
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recess
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| n.短期休息，壁凹（墙上装架子，柜子等凹处） | |
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corpses
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| n.死尸，尸体( corpse的名词复数 ) | |
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waterproofs
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| n.防水衣物，雨衣 usually plural( waterproof的名词复数 )v.使防水，使不透水( waterproof的第三人称单数 ) | |
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reigned
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| vi.当政，统治（reign的过去式形式） | |
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supreme
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| adj.极度的，最重要的；至高的，最高的 | |
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consigned
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| v.把…置于（令人不快的境地）( consign的过去式和过去分词 )；把…托付给；把…托人代售；丟弃 | |
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consternation
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| n.大为吃惊，惊骇 | |
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forth
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| adv.向前；向外，往外 | |
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plank
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| n.板条，木板，政策要点，政纲条目 | |
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screech
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| n./v.尖叫；(发出)刺耳的声音 | |
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trampling
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| 踩( trample的现在分词 )； 践踏； 无视； 侵犯 | |
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bulged
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| 凸出( bulge的过去式和过去分词 )； 充满； 塞满（某物） | |
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15
doorway
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| n.门口，(喻)入门；门路，途径 | |
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lucid
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| adj.明白易懂的，清晰的，头脑清楚的 | |
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affected
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| adj.不自然的，假装的 | |
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wiles
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| n.（旨在欺骗或吸引人的）诡计，花招；欺骗，欺诈( wile的名词复数 ) | |
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salmon
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| n.鲑，大马哈鱼，橙红色的 | |
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Oxford
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| n.牛津（英国城市） | |
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murky
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| adj.黑暗的，朦胧的；adv.阴暗地，混浊地；n.阴暗；昏暗 | |
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middle-aged
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| adj.中年的 | |
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aged
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| adj.年老的，陈年的 | |
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conversational
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| adj.对话的，会话的 | |
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semblance
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| n.外貌，外表 | |
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faltered
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| （嗓音）颤抖( falter的过去式和过去分词 )； 支吾其词； 蹒跚； 摇晃 | |
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glossy
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| adj.平滑的；有光泽的 | |
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texture
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| n.(织物)质地；(材料)构造；结构；肌理 | |
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enamel
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| n.珐琅，搪瓷，瓷釉；(牙齿的)珐琅质 | |
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wane
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| n.衰微，亏缺，变弱；v.变小，亏缺，呈下弦 | |
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intervals
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| n.[军事]间隔( interval的名词复数 )；间隔时间；[数学]区间；（戏剧、电影或音乐会的）幕间休息 | |
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bass
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| n.男低音(歌手)；低音乐器；低音大提琴 | |
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tenor
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| n.男高音（歌手），次中音（乐器），要旨，大意 | |
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expound
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| v.详述；解释；阐述 | |
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second-hand
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| adj.用过的，旧的，二手的 | |
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profundities
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| n.深奥，深刻，深厚( profundity的名词复数 )；堂奥 | |
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gravel
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| n.砂跞；砂砾层；结石 | |
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prevailing
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| adj.盛行的；占优势的；主要的 | |
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enthusiasts
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| n.热心人，热衷者( enthusiast的名词复数 ) | |
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belied
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| v.掩饰( belie的过去式和过去分词 )；证明（或显示）…为虚假；辜负；就…扯谎 | |
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awakened
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| v.（使）醒( awaken的过去式和过去分词 )；（使）觉醒；弄醒；（使）意识到 | |
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babble
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| v.含糊不清地说，胡言乱语地说，儿语 | |
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rattle
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| v.飞奔，碰响；激怒；n.碰撞声；拨浪鼓 | |
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44
blurred
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| v.（使）变模糊( blur的过去式和过去分词 )；（使）难以区分；模模糊糊；迷离 | |
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rusty
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| adj.生锈的；锈色的；荒废了的 | |
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46
cartridges
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| 子弹( cartridge的名词复数 )； （打印机的）墨盒； 录音带盒； （唱机的）唱头 | |
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47
cartridge
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| n.弹壳，弹药筒；(装磁带等的)盒子 | |
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48
ammunition
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| n.军火，弹药 | |
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49
secreted
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| v.（尤指动物或植物器官）分泌( secrete的过去式和过去分词 )；隐匿，隐藏 | |
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50
barometer
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| n.气压表，睛雨表，反应指标 | |
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51
adorn
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| vt.使美化，装饰 | |
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52
smirking
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| v.傻笑( smirk的现在分词 ) | |
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53
peculiar
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| adj.古怪的，异常的；特殊的，特有的 | |
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54
amber
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| n.琥珀；琥珀色；adj.琥珀制的 | |
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55
slumber
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| n.睡眠，沉睡状态 | |
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56
persuasively
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| adv.口才好地；令人信服地 | |
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57
growl
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| v.（狗等）嗥叫，（炮等）轰鸣；n.嗥叫，轰鸣 | |
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effete
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| adj.无生产力的，虚弱的 | |
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gallantly
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| adv. 漂亮地，勇敢地，献殷勤地 | |
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allude
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| v.提及，暗指 | |
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maniacs
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| n.疯子（maniac的复数形式） | |
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62
asylum
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| n.避难所，庇护所，避难 | |
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63
catching
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| adj.易传染的，有魅力的，迷人的，接住 | |
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64
malign
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| adj.有害的；恶性的；恶意的；v.诽谤，诬蔑 | |
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disdained
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| 鄙视( disdain的过去式和过去分词 )； 不屑于做，不愿意做 | |
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reassurance
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| n.使放心，使消除疑虑 | |
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67
demon
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| n.魔鬼，恶魔 | |
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68
standing
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| n.持续，地位；adj.永久的，不动的，直立的，不流动的 | |
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countenance
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| n.脸色，面容；面部表情；vt.支持，赞同 | |
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bog
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| n.沼泽；室...陷入泥淖 | |
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vaguely
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| adv.含糊地，暖昧地 | |
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awakening
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| n.觉醒，醒悟 adj.觉醒中的；唤醒的 | |
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yelping
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| v.发出短而尖的叫声( yelp的现在分词 ) | |
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brindled
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| adj.有斑纹的 | |
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lumbering
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| n.采伐林木 | |
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76
trot
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| n.疾走，慢跑；n.老太婆；现成译本；(复数）trots:腹泻（与the 连用）；v.小跑，快步走，赶紧 | |
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discreetly
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| ad.(言行)审慎地，慎重地 | |
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grunts
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| （猪等）作呼噜声( grunt的第三人称单数 )； （指人）发出类似的哼声； 咕哝着说； 石鲈 | |
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strenuous
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| adj.奋发的，使劲的；紧张的；热烈的，狂热的 | |
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awfully
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| adv.可怕地，非常地，极端地 | |
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81
cannon
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| n.大炮，火炮；飞机上的机关炮 | |
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streaking
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| n.裸奔（指在公共场所裸体飞跑）v.快速移动( streak的现在分词 )；使布满条纹 | |
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herd
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| n.兽群，牧群；vt.使集中，把…赶在一起 | |
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appalling
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| adj.骇人听闻的，令人震惊的，可怕的 | |
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intimidate
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| vt.恐吓，威胁 | |
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positively
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| adv.明确地，断然，坚决地；实在，确实 | |
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instigated
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| v.使（某事物）开始或发生，鼓动( instigate的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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retrieve
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| vt.重新得到，收回；挽回，补救；检索 | |
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prey
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| n.被掠食者，牺牲者，掠食；v.捕食，掠夺，折磨 | |
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tottering
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| adj.蹒跚的，动摇的v.走得或动得不稳( totter的现在分词 )；踉跄；蹒跚；摇摇欲坠 | |
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tenacity
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| n.坚韧 | |
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trumpeting
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| 大声说出或宣告（trumpet的现在分词形式） | |
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iniquities
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| n.邪恶( iniquity的名词复数 )；极不公正 | |
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crammed
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| adj.塞满的，挤满的；大口地吃；快速贪婪地吃v.把…塞满；填入；临时抱佛脚( cram的过去式) | |
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brandished
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| v.挥舞( brandish的过去式和过去分词 )；炫耀 | |
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galloping
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| adj. 飞驰的, 急性的 动词gallop的现在分词形式 | |
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exhausted
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| adj.极其疲惫的，精疲力尽的 | |
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prone
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| adj.(to)易于…的，很可能…的；俯卧的 | |
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99
collapse
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| vi.累倒；昏倒；倒塌；塌陷 | |
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100
resounding
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| adj. 响亮的 | |
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101
malice
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| n.恶意，怨恨，蓄意；[律]预谋 | |
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102
lodge
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| v.临时住宿，寄宿，寄存，容纳；n.传达室，小旅馆 | |
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103
nervously
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| adv.神情激动地，不安地 | |
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104
mumble
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| n./v.喃喃而语，咕哝 | |
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