We have said in our haste that we never hold on on{24} jaunting-cars, but as the dromedary to the park hack9, so is the mail-car to the ordinary “outside” of its species. It is large enough to hold six people on each side, and is dragged by three horses at a speed that takes no account of ruts and patches of stones and sharp corners, or of the fact that the unstable10 passenger has nothing to grasp at in time of need, except his equally unstable fellow-traveller. We held on to the priest and the tourist with all the power of our elbows, and derived11 at least some moral support from the certainty that when we fell off the car we should, like Samson, carry widespread disaster with us. But somehow people do not fall off these cars; and even the most unschooled of Saxons sits and swings and bows on the narrow seat with a security that must surprise himself.
An Irish mile is, roughly speaking, a mile and a quarter English, so we leave to the accomplished reader the computation of the distance from Galway to Oughterard according to the rightful standard. It is not in the ordinary sense a very interesting drive;{25} the guide-books pass it over in a breath in their haste to blossom out into the hotels and fisheries of Connemara; but to the eye that comes fresh to it from the offensively sleek12 and primly-partitioned pastures of England this first impression of Galway and its untrammelled bogs13 and rocks will be as lasting15 as any that come after. We ourselves might have framed many moving sentences about the desolate16 houses standing17 amongst the neglected timber within their broken demesne18 walls, but “all our mind was clouded with a doubt,” and from the peculiar19 protrusion20 of my cousin’s nether21 lip, I could gather that her moodiness22 was the outward token of an agitated23 mental parade of all the Oughterard horseflesh with which she was acquainted.
We spent that night at Oughterard in Miss Murphy’s comfortable little hotel, and the next morning found us embarked24 once more in search of a means of travel. The trap had been unearthed—the trap of our brightest dreams—a governess-cart that would just hold two people and a reasonable amount of luggage; but the{26} horse was the trouble. Various suggestions had been made: some had been feasible, and the one thing on which we were firmly decided25, viz., the governess-cart, seemed an impossibility.
“Well, Miss, ye see, she’s only just in off grass; sure she’ll rejoice greatly in the coorse of the next few days, and she’d fit the shafts26 well enough so.”
Thus spoke27 the proprietor28 of many flocks and herds29 to whom we had addressed ourselves. “It’s a pity there’s nothing would suit ye only the little thrap, but surely ye might thry her whatever.”
“She” was a farm mare30 of mountainous proportions, who after violent exertions31 had been squeezed between the shafts of the governess-cart, and she now stood gazing plaintively32 at us, and switching her flowing tail, while the shafts made grooves33 for themselves in her fat sides.
“Sit in now, Miss, and dhrive her out o’ the yard.” My second cousin got in with ease, the step of the trap being almost on the ground, owing to the unnatural34 elevation35 of its shafts, and the mare strode{27} heavily forward. My cousin clutched the front rail convulsively.
“I am slipping out!” she said with a sudden tension in her voice. Had she thought of it she might have held on by the tail, which hung down like a massive bell-rope above her, but as it was, after a moment or two of painful indecision, she made a hurried but safe exit over the door of the trap. The fate of the expedition trembled in the balance, and the group of spectators who had formed round us began to look concerned. The mare was extracted with some difficulty from the pinioning36 shafts, and all things were as they were, the governess-cart with its shafts on the ground, and my cousin and I with our hearts in our boots, when a voice came to us from the crowd—
“Johnny Flaherty have a nice jinnet.”
“A betther never shtud in Galway!” said another voice. “She’s able to kill anny horse on the road.”
An excited discussion followed, in the course of which it was brought forward as the jennet’s strongest{28}
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“SHE’S A LITTLE GIDDY ABOUT THE HEAD, MISS.”
recommendation that she was the daughter of the lady whose majestic37 build had lost to us the enjoyment38 of her admirable moral qualities. Finally a portion of the crowd detached itself and ran up the street, returning in a few minutes with Johnny Flaherty and{29} a long-legged, long-eared brown animal, which, as it approached, cast an eye of sour suspicion upon us and its mother. There was no doubt but that this creature would fit the trap, but with haunting memories of the iniquities39 of mules40 and their like we asked if it was gentle.
“She’s a little giddy about the head, Miss,” said the owner diffidently; “but if ye’ll not touch the ears she’s the quietest little thing at all. Back in, Sibbie!”
Sibbie backed in with an almost unwholesome docility41, and was harnessed in the twinkling of an eye, the lookers-on assisting enthusiastically. She was led out of the yard. We got in with Mr. Flaherty, and before the crowd had time to cross themselves we were out of sight.
“Perfection!” I gasped42, with the wind whistling in my teeth as Sibbie sped like a rat between the shafts that had given her good mother her first insight into tight lacing. “She goes splendidly—the very thing! but now isn’t it time to go back and get in our things?{30}”
My cousin did not answer; she was driving, and something told me that the same idea had occurred to her. She was leaning rigidly43 back, and one of her gloves had burst at the knuckles44. Johnny Flaherty extended a large hand and laid it on the reins45.
“She’s over-anxious for the road,” he said apologetically, as he brought the jennet to a standstill; “but I’ll put a curb-chain on her for ye.”
We turned and wheeled back into Oughterard, a positive adoration46 for Sibbie, with her discreet47 brown quarters and slender, rapier-like legs, welling up in us. Now, thinking over these things, it seems possible that her week’s hire approached her net value, but at the time of bargaining we felt that her price was far above rubies48.
As this is the record of a genuine expedition, it is perhaps advisable to say that our luggage consisted of a portmanteau, a dressing49 bag, a well-supplied luncheon50 basket, and a large and reliable gingham umbrella, purchased for the sum of three shillings in Oughterard. We viewed the elaborate stowing of{31}
{32}
{33}
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“WE VIEWED THE STOWING OF THE GOVERNESS-CART.”
these in the governess cart, and then went to Mr. Flaherty for his final sailing orders.
“Ye’ll mind her passing Flanigan’s; she have a fashion of running in there; and as for passing our own place, I have a boy standin’ there now in the archway with a stick, the way he’d turn her back out of it if she’d make a dart51 for the stable, and I’ll put a rope in the thrap for fear anything might break on ye.”
Mr. Flaherty looked a little anxious as he gave us these directions, and when he had gone for the rope, an old woman, who had been regarding us with a sympathetic solicitude52, came up to my cousin and took her by the arm.
“That the Lord may save yees! that’s all I’ll say,” she groaned53; “if ’twas a horse itself, I’d say nothin’, but thim mules is nayther here nor there. Sure asthore, ye couldn’t tell the minnit he’d turn into a boghole, when he doesn’t know ye, and thim Cunnemarra roads has nothin’ before him to shtop him only the grace of God! and the wather up aich side of the road by yees as deep as a well!{34}”
It was painful to find that Oughterard credited the jennet with the sole conduct of the expedition, and regarded us as helpless dependents on her will and pleasure. But the old woman’s agitation54 was quite unaffected, and the last thing we heard, as we flourished down the main street, was her voice uplifted in prayerful lamentation55.
Owing possibly to the fact that Mr. Flaherty’s boy was demonstrating with the pitch-fork in the archway leading to the stable, Sibbie made no attempt to “dart” into it as her owner had anticipated, and nothing marred56 the dignity of our departure. We turned cautiously over the crooked57 bridge, and drove along beside the river, running black under tall trees, with patches of foam58 sailing fast on it. Villas59 with trimly clipped ivy60 and flower-beds all ablaze61 were on our other hand, suburban62 in self-respecting neatness, romantic by force of surroundings and of something old-fashioned and solid in their build.
“This is the best village for its size this side of Galway,” said my cousin, with a languid indifference63{35} that, as I well knew, masked the seething64 self-satisfaction of the resident in the neighbourhood. “And the place has improved so wonderfully. For instance, there’s the Widow’s Almshouse. It isn’t so very long ago since an old woman said to my grandmother, ‘That’s the Widdies’ Almhouse, and sorra widdy in it but one little owld man,’ and now it’s simply bursting with widows—at least, I mean——”
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“MR. FLAHERTY’S BOY WAS DEMONSTRATING WITH A PITCH-FORK.”
This remarkable65 illustration of the prosperity of Oughterard was suddenly interrupted. We had forgotten that the residence of the too fascinating Mr. Flanigan was at hand, but not so Sibbie. With the subtlety66 of her race, she cloaked her design in a fulsome67 submissiveness, as the deadly spirit is sheathed68 in the syrup69 of the liqueur, and turning in full career,{36} without so much as an indication from her long expressive70 ears, she made for the gate of which we had been warned. By a special interposition of Providence71 it was closed, but we were both jerked forward in a very humiliating way, and there was much unseemly hectoring and lashing72 before we could drag her from the haven73 where she would be. The seeds of distrust were from that moment sown in our hearts, and we proceeded with a want of confidence that we had never afterwards reason to regret.
A few moments of steep ascent74 brought us out on to the moor75 that is the entrance to Connemara; a wide brown place of heather and bog14, with the sinuous76 shining of the Oughterard river saving it from the suspicion of monotony. The level road ran out in front of us till it dwindled77 into a white thread, the distant hills were no more than confidential78 blue hints of what we were to see, the sun shone, the strong west wind made us rejoice that we had stitched elastic79 into our hats, and the exhilaration of our feelings found vent80 in one passion-fraught word—luncheon.{37}
A great many people have asked us why we did not make our journey through Connemara on tricycles: the roads are so good, the mail-cars offer such facilities for the transport of baggage, the speed and simplicity81 are so great. To this we have our reply—what then of the luncheon hamper? These objectors have not taken into account the comfortable wayside halt by the picturesque82 and convenient lake; the unpacking83 of the spirit lamp, and its glittering bride the tin kettle, the dinner knives at sixpence apiece, the spoons at two-pence-halfpenny; the potted meats, the Bath Olivers, the Bovril and the Burgundy. In the abstract we are not fond of picnics, and agree with the Bard84 of “Ballads from Punch” in thinking that—
They who in contempt, the Dryad’s haunts
But a long road and an early breakfast create an earnestness and sincerity88 in the matter of luncheon{38} that were lacking in the artificial junketings of the Bard. Certainly, our stopping-places were not such as a Dryad could haunt with any degree of comfort. On this first day we pulled up under the lee of a low bank, one of the few roadside fences we had come to in that waste of heather and grey-blue lakes, and spread out our eatables on the seats of the cart with a kind of bashfulness of the possible passer-by; a bashfulness soon to be hardened by custom into a brazen89 contempt for even the passing mail-car and the fraternal backward grin of its driver. Most people who have wolfed the furtive90 sandwich in a crowded railway carriage have felt all of a sudden how gross and animal was the action, but how, if persevered91 in, a callous92 indifference may be attained93; this was the case with us.
After that first lunch the complexion94 of things changed. The wind sharpened into a wet whip, the clouds swooped95 down on the hilltops, the lakes turned a ruffled96 black, like a Spanish hen with its plumage blown the wrong way, and the first mishap97 to the{39}
[Image unavailable.]
expedition occurred. I turned my head to look with mild surprise at the end of an iron bedstead with which an ingenious farmer had closed an opening in his stone wall, and as I did so my hat soared upwards99 from my head, and flew like a live thing towards the lake by which we were driving. I followed with as much speed as I possess, while my cousin lay in idiot laughter in the cart, and had the pleasure of seeing{40} my hat plunge100 with the élan of a Marcus Curtius into a bed of waterlilies by the bank. From this I drew it, pale, half-drowned, but sane101 and submissive; and placing it in solitary102 confinement103 at the bottom of the trap, I donned a chilly104 knitted Tam o’Shanter, and we pursued our way to Recess.
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1
accomplished
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| adj.有才艺的；有造诣的；达到了的 | |
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dubious
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| adj.怀疑的，无把握的；有问题的，靠不住的 | |
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ingenuity
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| n.别出心裁；善于发明创造 | |
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countenance
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| n.脸色，面容；面部表情；vt.支持，赞同 | |
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amazement
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| n.惊奇，惊讶 | |
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rim
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| n.(圆物的)边，轮缘；边界 | |
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hamper
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| vt.妨碍，束缚，限制；n.(有盖的)大篮子 | |
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hack
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| n.劈，砍，出租马车；v.劈，砍，干咳 | |
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unstable
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| adj.不稳定的，易变的 | |
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derived
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| vi.起源；由来；衍生；导出v.得到( derive的过去式和过去分词 )；（从…中）得到获得；源于；（从…中）提取 | |
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sleek
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| adj.光滑的，井然有序的；v.使光滑，梳拢 | |
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bogs
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| n.沼泽，泥塘( bog的名词复数 )；厕所v.（使）陷入泥沼， （使）陷入困境( bog的第三人称单数 )；妨碍，阻碍 | |
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bog
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| n.沼泽；室...陷入泥淖 | |
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15
lasting
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| adj.永久的，永恒的；vbl.持续，维持 | |
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desolate
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| adj.荒凉的，荒芜的；孤独的，凄凉的；v.使荒芜，使孤寂 | |
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standing
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| n.持续，地位；adj.永久的，不动的，直立的，不流动的 | |
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demesne
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| n.领域，私有土地 | |
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peculiar
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| adj.古怪的，异常的；特殊的，特有的 | |
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protrusion
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| n.伸出，突出 | |
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nether
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| adj.下部的，下面的；n.阴间；下层社会 | |
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moodiness
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| n.喜怒无常；喜怒无常，闷闷不乐；情绪 | |
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agitated
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| adj.被鼓动的，不安的 | |
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embarked
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| 乘船( embark的过去式和过去分词 )； 装载； 从事 | |
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decided
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| adj.决定了的，坚决的；明显的，明确的 | |
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shafts
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| n.轴( shaft的名词复数 )；（箭、高尔夫球棒等的）杆；通风井；一阵（疼痛、害怕等） | |
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27
spoke
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| n.（车轮的）辐条；轮辐；破坏某人的计划；阻挠某人的行动 v.讲，谈（speak的过去式）；说；演说；从某种观点来说 | |
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proprietor
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| n.所有人；业主；经营者 | |
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herds
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| 兽群( herd的名词复数 )； 牧群； 人群； 群众 | |
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mare
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| n.母马，母驴 | |
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exertions
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| n.努力( exertion的名词复数 )；费力；（能力、权力等的）运用；行使 | |
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plaintively
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| adv.悲哀地，哀怨地 | |
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grooves
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| n.沟( groove的名词复数 )；槽；老一套；（某种）音乐节奏v.沟( groove的第三人称单数 )；槽；老一套；（某种）音乐节奏 | |
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unnatural
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| adj.不自然的；反常的 | |
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elevation
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| n.高度；海拔；高地；上升；提高 | |
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pinioning
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| v.抓住[捆住]（双臂）( pinion的现在分词 ) | |
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majestic
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| adj.雄伟的，壮丽的，庄严的，威严的，崇高的 | |
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38
enjoyment
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| n.乐趣；享有；享用 | |
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iniquities
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| n.邪恶( iniquity的名词复数 )；极不公正 | |
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mules
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| 骡( mule的名词复数 )； 拖鞋； 顽固的人； 越境运毒者 | |
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docility
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| n.容易教，易驾驶，驯服 | |
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gasped
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| v.喘气( gasp的过去式和过去分词 )；喘息；倒抽气；很想要 | |
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rigidly
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| adv.刻板地，僵化地 | |
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knuckles
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| n.（指人）指关节( knuckle的名词复数 )；（指动物）膝关节，踝v.（指人）指关节( knuckle的第三人称单数 )；（指动物）膝关节，踝 | |
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45
reins
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| 感情，激情； 缰( rein的名词复数 )； 控制手段； 掌管； （成人带着幼儿走路以防其走失时用的）保护带 | |
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adoration
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| n.爱慕，崇拜 | |
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discreet
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| adj.(言行)谨慎的；慎重的；有判断力的 | |
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48
rubies
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| 红宝石( ruby的名词复数 )； 红宝石色，深红色 | |
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49
dressing
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| n.(食物)调料；包扎伤口的用品，敷料 | |
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50
luncheon
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| n.午宴，午餐，便宴 | |
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51
dart
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| v.猛冲，投掷；n.飞镖，猛冲 | |
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52
solicitude
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| n.焦虑 | |
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53
groaned
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| v.呻吟( groan的过去式和过去分词 )；发牢骚；抱怨；受苦 | |
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54
agitation
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| n.搅动；搅拌；鼓动，煽动 | |
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55
lamentation
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| n.悲叹，哀悼 | |
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56
marred
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| adj. 被损毁, 污损的 | |
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57
crooked
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| adj.弯曲的；不诚实的，狡猾的，不正当的 | |
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58
foam
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| v./n.泡沫，起泡沫 | |
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villas
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| 别墅，公馆( villa的名词复数 )； （城郊）住宅 | |
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ivy
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| n.常青藤，常春藤 | |
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61
ablaze
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| adj.着火的，燃烧的；闪耀的，灯火辉煌的 | |
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62
suburban
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| adj.城郊的，在郊区的 | |
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63
indifference
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| n.不感兴趣，不关心，冷淡，不在乎 | |
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64
seething
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| 沸腾的，火热的 | |
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65
remarkable
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| adj.显著的，异常的，非凡的，值得注意的 | |
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66
subtlety
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| n.微妙，敏锐，精巧；微妙之处，细微的区别 | |
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67
fulsome
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| adj.可恶的，虚伪的，过分恭维的 | |
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68
sheathed
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| adj.雕塑像下半身包在鞘中的；覆盖的；铠装的；装鞘了的v.将（刀、剑等）插入鞘( sheathe的过去式和过去分词 )；包，覆盖 | |
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69
syrup
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| n.糖浆，糖水 | |
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70
expressive
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| adj.表现的，表达…的，富于表情的 | |
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71
providence
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| n.深谋远虑，天道，天意；远见；节约；上帝 | |
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72
lashing
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| n.鞭打；痛斥；大量；许多v.鞭打( lash的现在分词 )；煽动；紧系；怒斥 | |
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73
haven
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| n.安全的地方，避难所，庇护所 | |
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74
ascent
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| n.(声望或地位)提高；上升，升高；登高 | |
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75
moor
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| n.荒野，沼泽；vt.(使)停泊；vi.停泊 | |
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76
sinuous
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| adj.蜿蜒的，迂回的 | |
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77
dwindled
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| v.逐渐变少或变小( dwindle的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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78
confidential
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| adj.秘（机）密的，表示信任的，担任机密工作的 | |
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79
elastic
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| n.橡皮圈，松紧带；adj.有弹性的；灵活的 | |
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80
vent
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| n.通风口，排放口；开衩；vt.表达，发泄 | |
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81
simplicity
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| n.简单，简易；朴素；直率，单纯 | |
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82
picturesque
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| adj.美丽如画的，（语言）生动的，绘声绘色的 | |
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83
unpacking
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| n.取出货物，拆包[箱]v.从（包裹等）中取出（所装的东西），打开行李取出( unpack的现在分词 )；拆包；解除…的负担；吐露（心事等） | |
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84
bard
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| n.吟游诗人 | |
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85
profane
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| adj.亵神的，亵渎的；vt.亵渎，玷污 | |
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86
tarts
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| n.果馅饼( tart的名词复数 )；轻佻的女人；妓女；小妞 | |
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87
wasps
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| 黄蜂( wasp的名词复数 )； 胡蜂； 易动怒的人； 刻毒的人 | |
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88
sincerity
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| n.真诚，诚意；真实 | |
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89
brazen
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| adj.厚脸皮的，无耻的，坚硬的 | |
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90
furtive
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| adj.鬼鬼崇崇的，偷偷摸摸的 | |
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91
persevered
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| v.坚忍，坚持( persevere的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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92
callous
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| adj.无情的，冷淡的，硬结的，起老茧的 | |
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93
attained
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| （通常经过努力）实现( attain的过去式和过去分词 )； 达到； 获得； 达到（某年龄、水平、状况） | |
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94
complexion
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| n.肤色；情况，局面；气质，性格 | |
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95
swooped
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| 俯冲，猛冲( swoop的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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96
ruffled
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| adj. 有褶饰边的, 起皱的 动词ruffle的过去式和过去分词 | |
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97
mishap
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| n.不幸的事，不幸；灾祸 | |
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98
recess
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| n.短期休息，壁凹（墙上装架子，柜子等凹处） | |
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99
upwards
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| adv.向上，在更高处...以上 | |
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100
plunge
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| v.跳入，(使)投入，(使)陷入；猛冲 | |
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101
sane
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| adj.心智健全的，神志清醒的，明智的，稳健的 | |
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102
solitary
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| adj.孤独的，独立的，荒凉的；n.隐士 | |
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103
confinement
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| n.幽禁，拘留，监禁；分娩；限制，局限 | |
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104
chilly
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| adj.凉快的，寒冷的 | |
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