That notebook is memorable3 also in a statistical4 way, and perchance may serve future historians as a document proving the moderate cost of wayfaring5 in those halcyon6 days. Nothing in Mr. Pepys' diary is more interesting than his meticulous7 record of what his amusements cost him. Mayhap some future economist8 will pore upon these guileless confessions9. For in the black memorandum10 book I succeeded, for almost the only time in my life, in keeping an accurate record of the lapse11 of coin during nine whole days. I shall deposit the document with the Congressional Library in Washington for future annalists; in the meantime I make no excuse for recounting the items of the first sixty hours. Let no one take amiss the frequent entries marked "cider." July, 1911, was a hot month and a dusty, and we were biking fifty miles the day. Please reckon exchange at two cents per penny.
July 16 ￡ s. d
? pint cider 1?
lunch at Banbury 2 2
pint cider at Ettington 3
supper at Stratford 1 3
stamp and postcard 2
4 3?
July 17
Postcards and stamps 9
pencil 1
Warwick Castle 2 -
cider at the Bear and Baculus
(which Mifflin would call
the Bear and Bacillus) 2?
breakfast 3 2
Lunch, Kenilworth 1 6
Kenilworth Castle 6
Postcards 4
Lemonade, Coventry 4
Cider 2?
Supper, Tamworth,
The Castle Hotel 2 1
16 5?
July 18
Johnson house, Lichfield 3
cider at The Three Crowns 4
postcard and shave 4
The King's Head, bed and breakfast 3 7
cider 2
tip on road[A] 1?
lunch, Uttoxeter 1 3
cider, Ashbourne,The Green Man 3
landlord's drink, Ashbourne[B] 1
supper, Newhaven House, 1 -
lemonade, Buxton 3
TOTAL ￡1 s.4 d.1
($5.78)
[A]
As far as I can remember, this was a gratuity15 to a rather tarnished16 subject who directed us at a fork in the road, near a railway crossing.
[B]
This was a copper17 well lavished18; for the publican, a ventripotent person with a liquid and glamorous19 brown eye, told us excellent gossip about Dr. Johnson and George Eliot, both heroes in that neighbourhood. "Yes," we said, "that man Eliot was a great writer," and he agreed.
That is to say, 24 bob for two and a half days. We used to reckon that ten shillings a day would do us very nicely, barring luxuries and emergencies. We attained20 a zealous21 proficiency22 in reckoning shillings and pence, and our fervour in posting our ledgers23 would have gladdened a firm of auditors24. I remember lying on the coping of a stone bridge over the water of Teviot near Hawick, admiring the green-brown tint25 of the swift stream bickering26 over the stones. Mifflin was writing busily in his notebook on the other side of the bridge. I thought to myself, "Bless the lad, he's jotting27 down some picturesque28 notes of something that has struck his romantic eye." And just then he spoke—"Four and eleven pence half-penny so far to-day!"
Would I could retrogress over the devious29 and enchanting30 itinerary31. The McGill route from Oxford32 to Auld33 Reekie is 417 miles; it was the afternoon of the ninth day when with thumping34 hearts we saw Arthur's Seat from a dozen miles away. Our goal was in sight!
There was a reason for all this pedalling madness. Ever since the days when we had wandered by Darby Creek35, reading R.L.S. aloud to one another, we had planned this trip to the gray metropolis36 of the north. A score of sacred names had beckoned37 us, the haunts of the master. We knew them better than any other syllables38 in the world. Heriot Row, Princes Street, the Calton Hill, Duddingston Loch, Antigua Street, the Water of Leith, Colinton, Swanston, the Pentland Hills—O my friends, do those names mean to you what they did to us? Then you are one of the brotherhood39—what was to us then the sweetest brotherhood in the world!
In a quiet little hotel in Rutland Square we found decent lodging40, in a large chamber41 which was really the smoking room of the house. The city was crowded with tourists on account of an expected visit of the King and Queen; every other room in the hotel was occupied. Greatly to our satisfaction we were known as "the smoking-room gentlemen" throughout our stay. Our windows opened upon ranks of corridor-cars tying on the Caledonian Railway sidings, and the clink and jar of buffers42 and coupling irons were heard all night long. I seem to remember that somewhere in his letters R.L.S. speaks of that same sound. He knew Rutland Square well, for his boyhood friend Charles Baxter lived there. Writing from Samoa in later years he says that one memory stands out above all others of his youth—Rutland Square. And while that was of course only the imaginative fervour of the moment, yet we were glad to know that in that quiet little cul de sac behind the railway terminal we were on ground well loved by Tusitala.
The first evening, and almost every twilight43 while we were in Auld Reekie, we found our way to 17 Heriot Row—famous address, which had long been as familiar to us as our own. I think we expected to find a tablet on the house commemorating44 the beloved occupant; but no; to our surprise it was dark, dusty, and tenantless45. A sign TO SELL was prominent. To take the name of the agent was easy. A great thought struck us. Could we not go over the house in the character of prospective46 purchasers? Mifflin and I went back to our smoking room and concocted47 a genteel letter to Messrs. Guild48 and Shepherd, Writers to the Signet.
16 Charlotte Square,
Edinburgh.
26th July, 1911
DEAR SIR,
17 HERIOT ROW
We have received your letter regarding this house. The house can be seen at any time, and if you will let us know when you wish to view it we shall arrange to have it opened.
We are,
Yours faithfully,
GUILD AND SHEPHERD.
Our hearts were uplifted, but now we were mightily50 embarrassed as to the figure we would cut before the Writers to the Signet. You must remember that we were two young vagabonds in the earliest twenties, travelling with slim knapsacks, and much soiled by a fortnight on the road. I was in knickerbockers and khaki shirt; Mifflin in greasy51 gray flannels52 and subfusc Norfolk. Our only claims to gentility were our monocles. Always take a monocle on a vagabond tour: it is a never-failing source of amusement and passport of gentility. No matter how ragged54 you are, if you can screw a pane55 in your eye you can awe56 the yokel57 or the tradesman.
The private records of the firm of Guild and Shepherd doubtless show that on Friday, July 28, 1911, one of their polite young attachés, appearing as per appointment at 17 Heriot Row, was met by two eccentric young gentlemen, clad in dirty white flannel53 hats, waterproof58 capes59, each with an impressive monocle. Let it be said to the honour of the attaché in question that he showed no symptoms of surprise or alarm. We explained, I think, that we were scouting60 for my father, who (it was alleged) greatly desired to settle down in Edinburgh. And we had presence of mind enough to enquire61 about plumbing62, stationary63 wash-tubs, and the condition of the flues. I wish I could remember what rent was quoted.
He showed us all through the house; and you may imagine that we stepped softly and with beating hearts. Here we were on the very track of the Magician himself: his spirit whispered in the lonely rooms. We imagined R.L.S. as a little child, peering from the windows at dusk to see Leerie light the street-lamps outside—a quaint64, thin, elvish face with shining brown eyes; or held up in illness by Cummie to see the gracious dawn heralded65 by oblongs of light in the windows across the Queen Street gardens. We saw the college lad, tall, with tweed coat and cigarette, returning to Heriot Row with an armful of books, in sad or sparkling mood. The house was dim and dusty: a fine entrance hall, large dining room facing the street—and we imagined Louis and his parents at breakfast. Above this, the drawing room, floored with parquet66 oak, a spacious67 and attractive chamber. Above this again, the nursery, and opening off it the little room where faithful Cummie slept. But in vain we looked for some sign or souvenir of the entrancing spirit. The room that echoed to his childish glee, that heard his smothered68 sobs69 in the endless nights of childish pain, the room where he scribbled70 and brooded and burst into gusts71 of youth's passionate72 outcry, is now silent and forlorn.
With what subtly mingled73 feelings we peered from room to room, seeing everything, and yet not daring to give ourselves away to the courteous74 young agent. And what was it he said?—"This was the house of Lord So-and-so" (I forget the name)—"and incidentally, Robert Louis Stevenson lived here once. His signature occurs once or twice in the deeds."
Incidentally!...
Like many houses in Auld Reekie, 17 Heriot Row is built on a steep slant75 of ground, so that the rear of the house is a storey or more higher than the face. We explored the kitchens, laundries, store-rooms, and other "offices" with care, imagining that little "Smoutie" may have run here and there in search of tid-bits from the cook. Visions of that childhood, fifty years before, were almost as real as our own. We seemed to hear the young treble of his voice. That house was the home of the Stevensons for thirty years (1857-1887)—surely even the thirty years that have gone by since Thomas Stevenson died cannot have laid all those dear ghosts we conjured76 up!
We thanked our guide and took leave of him. If the firm of Guild and Shepherd should ever see this, surely they will forgive our innocent deception77, for the honour of R.L.S. I wonder if any one has yet put a tablet on the house? If not, Mifflin and I will do so, some day.
In the evenings we used to wander up to Heriot Row in the long Northern dusk, to sit on the front steps of number 17 waiting for Leerie to come and light the famous lamp which still stands on the pavement in front of the dining-room windows:
For we are very lucky, with a lamp before the door,
And Leerie stops to light it as he lights so many more;
And O! before you hurry by with ladder and with light,
O Leerie, see a little child and nod to him to-night!
But no longer does Leerie "with lantern and with ladder come posting up the street." Nowadays he carries a long pole bearing a flame cunningly sheltered in a brass79 socket80. But the Leerie of 1911 ("Leerie-light-the-lamps" is a generic81 nickname for all lamplighters in Scotland) was a pleasant fellow even if ladderless, and we used to have a cigar ready for him when he reached 17. We told him of R.L.S., of whom he had vaguely82 heard, and explained the sanctity of that particular lamp. He in turn talked freely of his craft, and learning that we were Americans he told us of his two sisters "in Pennsylvania, at 21 Thorn Street." He seemed to think Pennsylvania a town, but finally we learned that the Misses Leerie lived in Sewickley where they were doing well, and sending back money to the "kiddies." Good Leerie, I wonder do you still light the lamps on Heriot Row, or have you too seen redder beacons83 on Flanders fields?
One evening I remember we fell into discussion whether the lamp-post was still the same one that R.L.S. had known. We were down on hands and knees on the pavement, examining the base of the pillar by match-light in search of possible dates. A very seedy and disreputable looking man passed, evidently regarding us with apprehension84 as detectives. Mifflin, never at a loss, remarked loudly "No, I see no footprints here," and as the ragged one passed hastily on with head twisted over his shoulder, we followed him. At the corner of Howe Street he broke into an uneasy shuffle85, and Mifflin turned a great laugh into a Scotland Yard sneeze.
Howe Street crosses Heriot Row at right angles, only a few paces prom No. 17. It dips sharply downhill toward the Water of Leith, and Mifflin and I used to stand at the corner and wonder just where took place the adventure with the lame78 boy which R.L.S. once described when setting down some recollections of childhood.
In Howe street, round the corner from our house, I often saw a lame boy of rather a rough and poor appearance. He had one leg much shorter than the other, and wallowed in his walk, in consequence, like a ship in a seaway. I had read more than enough, in tracts86 and goody story books, of the isolation87 of the infirm; and after many days of bashfulness and hours of consideration, I finally accosted88 him, sheepishly enough I daresay, in these words: "Would you like to play with me?" I remember the expression, which sounds exactly like a speech from one of the goody books that had nerved me to the venture. But the answer was not one I had anticipated, for it was a blast of oaths. I need not say how fast I fled. This incident was the more to my credit as I had, when I was young, a desperate aversion to addressing strangers, though when once we had got into talk I was pretty certain to assume the lead. The last particular may still be recognized. About four years ago I saw my lame lad, and knew him again at once. He was then a man of great strength, rolling along, with an inch of cutty in his mouth and a butcher's basket on his arm. Our meeting had been nothing to him, but it was a great affair to me.
We strolled up the esplanade below the Castle, pausing in Ramsay's Gardens to admire the lighted city from above. In the valley between the Castle and Princes Street the pale blue mist rises at night like an exhalation from the old gray stones. The lamps shining through it blend in a delicate opalescent89 sheen, shot here and there with brighter flares90. As the sky darkens the castle looms91 in silhouette92, with one yellow square below the Half Moon Battery. "There are no stars like the Edinburgh street lamps," says R.L.S. Aye, and the brightest of them all shines on Heriot Row.
The vision of that child face still comes to me, peering down from the dining-room window. R.L.S. may never have gratified his boyish wish to go round with Leerie and light the lamps, but he lit many and more enduring flames even in the hearts of those who never saw him.
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1
testament
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| n.遗嘱；证明 | |
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steer
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| vt.驾驶，为…操舵；引导；vi.驾驶 | |
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memorable
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| adj.值得回忆的，难忘的，特别的，显著的 | |
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4
statistical
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| adj.统计的，统计学的 | |
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5
wayfaring
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| adj.旅行的n.徒步旅行 | |
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6
halcyon
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| n.平静的，愉快的 | |
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7
meticulous
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| adj.极其仔细的，一丝不苟的 | |
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8
economist
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| n.经济学家，经济专家，节俭的人 | |
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9
confessions
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| n.承认( confession的名词复数 )；自首；声明；（向神父的）忏悔 | |
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memorandum
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| n.备忘录，便笺 | |
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11
lapse
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| n.过失，流逝，失效，抛弃信仰，间隔；vi.堕落，停止，失效，流逝；vt.使失效 | |
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12
pint
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| n.品脱 | |
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13
bowling
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| n.保龄球运动 | |
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14
puncture
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| n.刺孔，穿孔；v.刺穿，刺破 | |
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15
gratuity
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| n.赏钱，小费 | |
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16
tarnished
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| （通常指金属）（使）失去光泽，（使）变灰暗( tarnish的过去式和过去分词 )； 玷污，败坏 | |
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17
copper
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| n.铜；铜币；铜器；adj.铜(制)的；(紫)铜色的 | |
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18
lavished
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| v.过分给予，滥施( lavish的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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19
glamorous
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| adj.富有魅力的；美丽动人的；令人向往的 | |
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20
attained
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| （通常经过努力）实现( attain的过去式和过去分词 )； 达到； 获得； 达到（某年龄、水平、状况） | |
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21
zealous
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| adj.狂热的，热心的 | |
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22
proficiency
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| n.精通，熟练，精练 | |
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23
ledgers
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| n.分类账( ledger的名词复数 ) | |
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24
auditors
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| n.审计员，稽核员( auditor的名词复数 )；（大学课程的）旁听生 | |
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25
tint
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| n.淡色，浅色；染发剂；vt.着以淡淡的颜色 | |
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26
bickering
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| v.争吵( bicker的现在分词 )；口角；（水等）作潺潺声；闪烁 | |
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27
jotting
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| n.简短的笔记，略记v.匆忙记下( jot的现在分词 )；草草记下，匆匆记下 | |
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28
picturesque
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| adj.美丽如画的，（语言）生动的，绘声绘色的 | |
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29
devious
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| adj.不坦率的，狡猾的；迂回的，曲折的 | |
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30
enchanting
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| a.讨人喜欢的 | |
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31
itinerary
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| n.行程表，旅行路线；旅行计划 | |
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32
Oxford
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| n.牛津（英国城市） | |
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33
auld
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| adj.老的，旧的 | |
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34
thumping
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| adj.重大的，巨大的；重击的；尺码大的；极好的adv.极端地；非常地v.重击(thump的现在分词)；狠打；怦怦地跳；全力支持 | |
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35
creek
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| n.小溪，小河，小湾 | |
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metropolis
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| n.首府；大城市 | |
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37
beckoned
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| v.（用头或手的动作）示意，召唤( beckon的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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38
syllables
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| n.音节( syllable的名词复数 ) | |
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39
brotherhood
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| n.兄弟般的关系，手中情谊 | |
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40
lodging
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| n.寄宿，住所；(大学生的)校外宿舍 | |
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41
chamber
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| n.房间，寝室；会议厅；议院；会所 | |
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42
buffers
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| 起缓冲作用的人（或物）( buffer的名词复数 )； 缓冲器； 减震器； 愚蠢老头 | |
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43
twilight
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| n.暮光，黄昏；暮年，晚期，衰落时期 | |
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44
commemorating
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| v.纪念，庆祝( commemorate的现在分词 ) | |
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tenantless
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| adj.无人租赁的，无人居住的 | |
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46
prospective
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| adj.预期的，未来的，前瞻性的 | |
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47
concocted
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| v.将（尤指通常不相配合的）成分混合成某物( concoct的过去式和过去分词 )；调制；编造；捏造 | |
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48
guild
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| n.行会，同业公会，协会 | |
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promptly
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| adv.及时地，敏捷地 | |
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mightily
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| ad.强烈地；非常地 | |
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greasy
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| adj. 多脂的，油脂的 | |
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52
flannels
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| 法兰绒男裤； 法兰绒( flannel的名词复数 ) | |
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flannel
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| n.法兰绒；法兰绒衣服 | |
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ragged
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| adj.衣衫褴褛的，粗糙的，刺耳的 | |
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pane
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| n.窗格玻璃，长方块 | |
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56
awe
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| n.敬畏，惊惧；vt.使敬畏，使惊惧 | |
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yokel
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| n.乡下人；农夫 | |
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waterproof
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| n.防水材料；adj.防水的；v.使...能防水 | |
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capes
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| 碎谷； 斗篷( cape的名词复数 )； 披肩； 海角； 岬 | |
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scouting
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| 守候活动，童子军的活动 | |
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enquire
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| v.打听，询问；调查，查问 | |
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plumbing
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| n.水管装置；水暖工的工作；管道工程v.用铅锤测量（plumb的现在分词）；探究 | |
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stationary
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| adj.固定的，静止不动的 | |
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quaint
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| adj.古雅的，离奇有趣的，奇怪的 | |
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heralded
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| v.预示( herald的过去式和过去分词 )；宣布（好或重要） | |
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parquet
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| n.镶木地板 | |
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spacious
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| adj.广阔的，宽敞的 | |
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68
smothered
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| （使）窒息， （使）透不过气( smother的过去式和过去分词 )； 覆盖； 忍住； 抑制 | |
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sobs
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| 啜泣（声），呜咽（声）( sob的名词复数 ) | |
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scribbled
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| v.潦草的书写( scribble的过去式和过去分词 )；乱画；草草地写；匆匆记下 | |
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71
gusts
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| 一阵强风( gust的名词复数 )； （怒、笑等的）爆发； （感情的）迸发； 发作 | |
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72
passionate
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| adj.热情的，热烈的，激昂的，易动情的，易怒的，性情暴躁的 | |
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73
mingled
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| 混合，混入( mingle的过去式和过去分词 )； 混进，与…交往[联系] | |
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74
courteous
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| adj.彬彬有礼的，客气的 | |
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75
slant
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| v.倾斜，倾向性地编写或报道；n.斜面，倾向 | |
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76
conjured
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| 用魔术变出( conjure的过去式和过去分词 )； 祈求，恳求； 变戏法； （变魔术般地） 使…出现 | |
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77
deception
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| n.欺骗，欺诈；骗局，诡计 | |
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78
lame
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| adj.跛的，(辩解、论据等)无说服力的 | |
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79
brass
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| n.黄铜；黄铜器，铜管乐器 | |
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80
socket
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| n.窝，穴，孔，插座，插口 | |
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81
generic
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| adj.一般的，普通的，共有的 | |
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82
vaguely
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| adv.含糊地，暖昧地 | |
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83
beacons
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| 灯塔( beacon的名词复数 )； 烽火； 指路明灯； 无线电台或发射台 | |
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84
apprehension
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| n.理解，领悟；逮捕，拘捕；忧虑 | |
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85
shuffle
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| n.拖著脚走，洗纸牌；v.拖曳，慢吞吞地走 | |
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86
tracts
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| 大片土地( tract的名词复数 )； 地带； （体内的）道； （尤指宣扬宗教、伦理或政治的）短文 | |
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isolation
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| n.隔离，孤立，分解，分离 | |
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88
accosted
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| v.走过去跟…讲话( accost的过去式和过去分词 )；跟…搭讪；（乞丐等）上前向…乞讨；（妓女等）勾搭 | |
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89
opalescent
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| adj.乳色的，乳白的 | |
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90
flares
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| n.喇叭裤v.（使）闪耀( flare的第三人称单数 )；（使）（船舷）外倾；（使）鼻孔张大；（使）（衣裙、酒杯等）呈喇叭形展开 | |
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91
looms
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| n.织布机( loom的名词复数 )v.隐约出现，阴森地逼近( loom的第三人称单数 )；隐约出现，阴森地逼近 | |
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92
silhouette
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| n.黑色半身侧面影，影子，轮廓；v.描绘成侧面影，照出影子来，仅仅显出轮廓 | |
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