Radiating from this modest centre, like the petals5 of a sunflower spreading from its small brown disc, are the long, straight streets, the yellow and white houses and the red roofs of modern Nice. This new town appears from afar as an immense expanse of bright biscuit-yellow spread between the blue of the bay and the deep green of the uplands. It presents certain abrupt6 excrescences on its surface, like isolated warts7 on a pale face. These are the famous hotels. This city of to-day is of little interest. It commends itself merely as a very modern and very prosperous seaside resort. Within the narrow circuit of the old town, on the other hand, there is much that is worthy8 to be seen and to be pondered over.
It is said that Nice was founded by the Phoc?ans about the year 350 B.C., and that the name of the place, Nic?a, the city of victory, records the victory of these very obscure people over the still more obscure Ligurians. The Romans paid little heed9 to Nice. They passed it by and founded their own city, Cemenelum (now Cimiez), on higher ground away from the sea. Nice was then merely the port, the poor suburb, the fishers’ town. After Cimiez came to an end Nice began to grow and flourish. It was, in the natural course of events, duly sacked or burned by barbarous hordes10 and by Saracens, and was besieged11 as soon as it had walls and was besiegable. It took part in the local wars, now on this side, now on that. It had, in common with nearly every town in Europe, its periods of pestilence13 and its years of famine.
In the thirteenth century it fell into the hands of the Counts of Provence, and at the end of the fourteenth century it came under the protection of the Dukes of Savoy. Like many a worthier14 place it was shifted to and fro like a pawn15 on a chess-board. It had for years a strong navy and the reputation of being a terror to the Barbary pirates. These tiresome16 men from Barbary interfered17 with the pursuits of Nice, which consisted largely of robbery on the high seas. Nice did not object to the Barbary men as pirates but as poachers on the Nice grounds. The picture drawn18 by one writer who represents Nice in the guise19 of an indignant moralist repressing piracy20 because of its wickedness, may be compared with the conception of Satan rebuking21 sin. In 1250 Charles of Anjou, Prince of Provence, built a naval22 arsenal23 at Nice. It occupied the area now covered by the Cours Saleya but was entirely24 swept away by a storm in 1516.
In 1548 Nice—then a town of Savoy—was attacked by the French and sustained a very memorable25 siege, which is dealt with in the chapter which follows. After this it became quite a habit with the French to besiege12 Nice; for they set upon it, with varying success, in 1600, again in 1691, in 1706, and again in 1744. Finally, after changes of ownership too complex to mention, Nice was annexed26 to France, together with Savoy, in the year 1860.
In Bosio’s interesting work[2] there is a plan of the city of Nice published in 1610. Although bearing the date named it represents the disposition27 of the city as it existed at a much earlier period. It shows that the town was situated28 on the left or east bank of the Paillon and that it was divided into two parts, the High Town and the Low Town. The former occupied the summit of the Castle Hill, was strongly fortified29 and surrounded by substantial walls. On this plateau were the castle of the governor, the cathedral, the bishop’s palace, the H?tel de Ville, and the residences of certain nobles. The Low Town, at the foot of the hill, was occupied by the houses and shops of merchants, by private residences, and the humbler dwellings30 of sailors, artisans and poor folk. In the earliest days the High Town, or Haute Ville, alone existed; for Nice was then a settlement on an isolated hill as difficult of access as Monaco. In the fifteenth century the castle was represented only by the old keep or donjon, a structure, no doubt, massive enough but not adapted for other than a small garrison31. It was Nicode de Menthon who enlarged the fortress32 of Nice and greatly increased the defences of the town during the century named.
As years progressed the military needs of the time caused the High Town, as a place of habitation, to cease to exist; for the whole of the top of the hill was given up to fortifications, bastions, gun emplacements, magazines, armouries and barracks. It is said by Bosio that the private houses and public buildings within the walls of the High Town were abandoned in 1518 to be replaced by the military works just named. The whole of these works were finally levelled to the ground in the year 1706 by order of Louis XIV.
The Low Town, la Ville Basse, was bounded on the south by the sea, on the east by the Castle Hill, and on the west by a line running from the shore to the Paillon and roughly represented in position and direction by the present Rue33 de la Terrasse. To the north the town extended as far as the Boulevard du Pont Vieux. The town was surrounded by ramparts and bastions. On the ruins of the bastions Sincaire and Pa?roliera the Place Victor[3] (now the Place Garibaldi) was constructed in 1780. The position of the two bastions on the north is indicated roughly by the present Rue Sincaire and Rue Pairollière. On one side of the Rue Sincaire there still stands, against the flank of the hill, a solid and lofty mass of masonry34 which is a relic35 of the defences of old days.
There were four gates to the old town, Porte de la Marine36, Porte St. Eloi, Porte St. Antoine, and the Pa?roliera Gate. The St. Eloi and the Pa?roliera gates were broken down during the great siege of 1543, and the others have since been cleared away. Of these various gates that of St. Antoine was the most important. It was at this gate that criminals were pilloried37. A faint trace of the old walls is still to be seen near the end of the Fish Market.
The Bellanda Tower was built in 1517 by de Bellegarde, the then Governor of Nice. It served to protect the city from the sea. The tower now exists as a low round work which has been incorporated in the grounds of an hotel and converted into a “belvedere.” It might, however, be readily mistaken for a stone water-tank. There was another tower, called the Malavicina, which was constructed to defend the town upon the land side; but of this erection no trace remains38. A little suburb, or small borough39, existed just outside the old town and on the other side of the river. It was called St. Jean Baptiste, and was connected with the town by a bridge in front of the St. Antoine Gate. Its position is indicated by the present Quai St. Jean Baptiste.
The old town of Nice is small and well circumscribed40. It occupies a damp and dingy41 corner at the foot of the Castle Hill. It seems as if it had been pushed into this corner by the over-assertive new town. Its lanes are so compressed and its houses, by comparison, so tall that it gives the idea of having been squeezed and one may imagine that with a little more force the houses on the two sides of a street would touch. It is traversed from end to end by an alley42 called the Rue Droite. This was the Oxford43 Street of the ancient city. A series of narrower lanes cross the Rue Droite; those on one side mount uphill towards the castle rock, those on the other incline towards the river.
The lanes are dark, dirty and dissolute-looking. The town is such a one as Gustave Doré loved to depict44 or such as would be fitting to the tales of Rabelais. One hardly expects to find it peopled by modern mechanics, tram conductors, newspaper boys and honest housewives; nor do electric lights seem to be in keeping with the place. Its furtive45 ways would be better suited to men in cloaks and slouched hats carrying rapiers, and at night to muffled46 folk groping about with lanterns. One expects rather to see quaint47 signboards swinging over shops and women with strange headgear looking out of lattice windows. In the place of all this is modern respectability—the bowler48 hat, the stiff collar and the gramophone.
The only thing that has not changed is the smell. It may be fainter than it was, but it must be centuries old. It is a complex smell—a mingling49 of cheese and stale wine, of salt fish and bad health, a mouldy and melancholy50 smell that is hard to bear even though it be so very old. The ancient practice of throwing all refuse into the street has drawbacks, but it at least lacks the insincere delicacy51 of the modern dustbin.
Strange and interesting industries are carried on in doorways52 and on the footpath54. Intimate affairs of domestic life are pursued with unblushing frankness in the open and with a singular absence of restraint. Each street, besides being a public way, is also a laundry, a play-room for children and a fowl55 run.
The houses are of no particular interest, for, with a few exceptions, they have been monotonously56 modernised. The lanes are so pinched that the dwellings are hard to see as a whole. If the visitor throws back his head and looks in the direction in which he believes the sky to be, he will be aware of dingy walls in blurred57 tints58 of pink or yellow, grey or blue with green sun-shutters which are swinging open at all angles. From any one of the windows may protrude59 a mattress—like a white or red tongue—or a pole may appear from which hang clothes to dry, or, more commonly still, a female head will project. Women talk to one another from windows all day long. Indeed, social intercourse60 in old Nice is largely conducted from windows. If one looks along a lane, these dark heads projecting at various levels from the houses are like hobnails on the sole of a boot. The sun-shutters, it may be explained, are not for the purpose of keeping out the sun, but serve as a protection from the far more piercing ray of the neighbour’s eye.
A picturesque61 street is the Rue du Malonat. It mounts up to the foot of the Castle Hill by wide, low steps like those on a mule-path. Poor as the street may be, there is in it an old stone doorway53, finely carved, which is of no little dignity. At the bottom of the lane is a corner house with three windows furnished with grilles. This is said to have been at one time the residence of the Governor of Nice. The house in the Rue de la Préfecture (No. 20) where Paganini died is featureless but for its old stone entry, and its ground floor has become a shop where knitted goods are sold.[4]
In the Rue Droite (No. 15) is an amazing house which one would never expect to find in a mean street. It is the palace of the great Lascaris family. Theodore Lascaris, the founder62 of the family, is said to have been driven from his Byzantine throne in 1261 and to have taken refuge in Nice. There he built himself a palace. It could not have been erected63 in the Rue Droite, as so many writers repeat, since the Lower Town as a retreat for ex-emperors, had no existence at this period. The descendants of the exile, however, continued to live in Nice for some centuries, and the present building dates, with little doubt, from the early part of the seventeenth century.
The street is so narrow that it is difficult to appreciate the fine fa?ade of this palace; but by assuming the attitude of a star-gazer it is possible to see that the great house of four stories would look illustrious even in Piccadilly. It has a very finely carved stone doorway which leads into a vaulted64 hall. In the road outside the door are heaps of vegetable refuse, a pyramid of mouldy lemons and a pile of pea husks. From the upper windows hang bedding and clothes to dry. It is quite evident that the exposed garments do not belong to the family of an ex-emperor. On the main floor, or piano nobile, are seven large and ornate windows, each provided with a balcony.
From the hall a stone staircase ascends65 in many flights. It has a vaulted ceiling, supported by large stone columns. On the wall are niches66 containing busts67 of indefinite men and some elaborate work in plaster. The staircase on one side is open to a well all the way and so the lights and shadows that cross it are very fascinating. Still more fascinating is it to recall for a moment the people who have passed up and down the stair and upon whom these lights and shadows have fallen during the last three hundred years. Among them would be the old count on his way to the justice room, the faltering68 bride whose hand has rested on this very balustrade, the tired child crawling up to bed with a frightened glance at the fearsome busts upon the wall.[5]
The rooms on the piano nobile have domed69 ceilings, which are either covered with frescoes70 or are richly ornamented71 by plaster work. There is a great display on the walls of gilt73 panelling and bold mouldings. The rooms are dark and empty and so dirty that they have apparently74 not been cleaned since the Lascaris family took their departure. Apart from the filth75 and the neglect the place provides a vivid realisation of the town house of a nobleman of Nice in the olden days.
NICE: RUE DU SENAT.
A stroll through the town will reveal many reminiscences of the past, which, although trivial enough, are still very pleasant to come upon amidst squalid surroundings. For instance over the doorway of a house in the Rue Centrale are carved, in a very boyish fashion, the letters I.H.S. with beneath them the sacred heart, the date 1648 and the initials of the owner of the building. Then again in the Rue Droite (No. 1), high up on the plain, deadly-modern wall of a wine-shop, is one very exquisite76 little window whose three arches are supported by two graceful77 columns. It is as unexpected as a plaque78 by Della Robbia on the outside of a gasometer.
There are several churches in the old town but they cannot claim to be notable. The cathedral of Sainte Réparate stands in an obscure and meagre square. It became a cathedral in 1531 but was reconstructed in 1737 and its interior “restored” in 1901. Outside it is quite mediocre79, but within it is so ablaze80 with crude colours, so laden81 with extravagant82 and restless ornament72, so profuse83 in its fussy84 and irritating decoration that it is not, in any sense, a sanctuary85 of peace. The old town hall of Nice in the Place St. Fran?ois is a small, simple building in the Renaissance86 style which can claim to be worthy of the Nice that was.
There are two objects outside the old town which the visitor will assuredly see—the Pont Vieux and the Croix de Marbre. The former which dates from 1531 is a weary-looking old bridge of three arches, worn and patched. Any charm it may have possessed87 is destroyed by the uncouth88 structure of wood and iron which serves to widen its narrow medi?val way. The cross stands in the district once occupied by the convent of Sainte Croix which was destroyed during the siege of 1543. The monument serves to commemorate89 the meeting of peace held in 1538 by Pope Paul III, Fran?ois I and the Emperor Charles V. The cross, which is very simple, rises under a canopy90 of old, grey stone, supported by pillars with very primitive91 capitals. The cross was hidden away during the Revolution but was replaced in 1806 by the then Countess de Villeneuve. The venerable monument, standing92 as it does in a busy street through which the tramcars rumble93, looks singularly forlorn and out of place.
The Castle Hill is now merely a wooded height which has been converted into a quite delightful94 public park. Among the forest of trees are many remains of the ancient citadel, masses of tumbled masonry, a half-buried arch or a stone doorway. There are indications also of the foundations of the old cathedral. The view from the platform on the summit is very fine, while at the foot are the jumbled95 roofs of old Nice. It is easy to appreciate how strong a fortress it was and how it proved to be impregnable to the forces of Barbarossa in the siege of 1543. It is a hill with a great history, illumined with great memories, but these are not encouraged by the stall for postcards and the refreshment96 bar which now occupy the place of the old donjon.
[2]
“La Province des Alpes Maritimes,” 1902.
[3]
So named after King Victor Amadeus III of Sardinia.
[4]
The strange wanderings of Paganini after death are dealt with in the account of Villefranche (page 114).
[5]
A good photograph of this staircase will be found in Mr. Loveland’s “Romance of Nice,” page 146.
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1
parvenu
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| n.暴发户，新贵 | |
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isolated
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| adj.与世隔绝的 | |
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citadel
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| n.城堡；堡垒；避难所 | |
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jumble
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| vt.使混乱，混杂；n.混乱；杂乱的一堆 | |
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petals
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| n.花瓣( petal的名词复数 ) | |
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abrupt
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| adj.突然的，意外的；唐突的，鲁莽的 | |
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warts
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| n.疣( wart的名词复数 )；肉赘；树瘤；缺点 | |
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worthy
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| adj.(of)值得的，配得上的；有价值的 | |
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heed
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| v.注意，留意；n.注意，留心 | |
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hordes
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| n.移动着的一大群( horde的名词复数 )；部落 | |
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besieged
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| 包围，围困，围攻( besiege的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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besiege
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| vt.包围，围攻，拥在...周围 | |
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pestilence
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| n.瘟疫 | |
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worthier
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| 应得某事物( worthy的比较级 )； 值得做某事； 可尊敬的； 有（某人或事物）的典型特征 | |
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pawn
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| n.典当，抵押，小人物，走卒；v.典当，抵押 | |
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tiresome
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| adj.令人疲劳的，令人厌倦的 | |
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interfered
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| v.干预( interfere的过去式和过去分词 )；调停；妨碍；干涉 | |
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drawn
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| v.拖，拉，拔出；adj.憔悴的，紧张的 | |
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guise
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| n.外表，伪装的姿态 | |
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piracy
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| n.海盗行为，剽窃，著作权侵害 | |
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rebuking
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| 责难或指责( rebuke的现在分词 ) | |
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naval
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| adj.海军的，军舰的，船的 | |
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arsenal
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| n.兵工厂，军械库 | |
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entirely
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| ad.全部地，完整地；完全地，彻底地 | |
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memorable
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| adj.值得回忆的，难忘的，特别的，显著的 | |
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annexed
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| [法] 附加的，附属的 | |
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disposition
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| n.性情，性格；意向，倾向；排列，部署 | |
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situated
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| adj.坐落在...的，处于某种境地的 | |
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fortified
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| adj. 加强的 | |
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dwellings
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| n.住处，处所( dwelling的名词复数 ) | |
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garrison
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| n.卫戍部队；驻地，卫戍区；vt.派(兵)驻防 | |
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fortress
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| n.堡垒，防御工事 | |
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rue
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| n.懊悔，芸香，后悔；v.后悔，悲伤，懊悔 | |
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masonry
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| n.砖土建筑；砖石 | |
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relic
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| n.神圣的遗物，遗迹，纪念物 | |
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marine
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| adj.海的；海生的；航海的；海事的；n.水兵 | |
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pilloried
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| v.使受公众嘲笑( pillory的过去式和过去分词 )；将…示众；给…上颈手枷；处…以枷刑 | |
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remains
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| n.剩余物，残留物；遗体，遗迹 | |
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borough
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| n.享有自治权的市镇；(英)自治市镇 | |
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circumscribed
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| adj.[医]局限的：受限制或限于有限空间的v.在…周围划线( circumscribe的过去式和过去分词 )；划定…范围；限制；限定 | |
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dingy
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| adj.昏暗的，肮脏的 | |
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alley
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| n.小巷，胡同；小径，小路 | |
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Oxford
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| n.牛津（英国城市） | |
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depict
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| vt.描画，描绘；描写，描述 | |
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furtive
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| adj.鬼鬼崇崇的，偷偷摸摸的 | |
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muffled
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| adj.（声音）被隔的；听不太清的；（衣服）裹严的；蒙住的v.压抑，捂住( muffle的过去式和过去分词 )；用厚厚的衣帽包着（自己） | |
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quaint
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| adj.古雅的，离奇有趣的，奇怪的 | |
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bowler
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| n.打保龄球的人，（板球的）投（球）手 | |
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mingling
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| adj.混合的 | |
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melancholy
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| n.忧郁，愁思；adj.令人感伤（沮丧）的，忧郁的 | |
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delicacy
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| n.精致，细微，微妙，精良；美味，佳肴 | |
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doorways
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| n.门口，门道( doorway的名词复数 ) | |
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doorway
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| n.门口，(喻)入门；门路，途径 | |
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footpath
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| n.小路，人行道 | |
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fowl
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| n.家禽，鸡，禽肉 | |
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monotonously
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| adv.单调地，无变化地 | |
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blurred
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| v.（使）变模糊( blur的过去式和过去分词 )；（使）难以区分；模模糊糊；迷离 | |
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tints
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| 色彩( tint的名词复数 )； 带白的颜色； （淡色）染发剂； 痕迹 | |
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protrude
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| v.使突出，伸出，突出 | |
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intercourse
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| n.性交；交流，交往，交际 | |
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picturesque
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| adj.美丽如画的，（语言）生动的，绘声绘色的 | |
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Founder
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| n.创始者，缔造者 | |
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ERECTED
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| adj. 直立的，竖立的，笔直的 vt. 使 ... 直立，建立 | |
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vaulted
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| adj.拱状的 | |
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ascends
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| v.上升，攀登( ascend的第三人称单数 ) | |
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niches
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| 壁龛( niche的名词复数 )； 合适的位置[工作等]； （产品的）商机； 生态位（一个生物所占据的生境的最小单位） | |
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busts
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| 半身雕塑像( bust的名词复数 )； 妇女的胸部； 胸围； 突击搜捕 | |
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68
faltering
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| 犹豫的，支吾的，蹒跚的 | |
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69
domed
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| adj. 圆屋顶的, 半球形的, 拱曲的 动词dome的过去式和过去分词形式 | |
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70
frescoes
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| n.壁画( fresco的名词复数 )；温壁画技法，湿壁画 | |
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71
ornamented
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| adj.花式字体的v.装饰，点缀，美化( ornament的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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ornament
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| v.装饰，美化；n.装饰，装饰物 | |
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73
gilt
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| adj.镀金的；n.金边证券 | |
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74
apparently
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| adv.显然地；表面上，似乎 | |
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filth
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| n.肮脏，污物，污秽；淫猥 | |
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exquisite
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| adj.精美的；敏锐的；剧烈的，感觉强烈的 | |
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graceful
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| adj.优美的，优雅的；得体的 | |
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plaque
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| n.饰板，匾，(医)血小板 | |
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mediocre
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| adj.平常的，普通的 | |
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80
ablaze
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| adj.着火的，燃烧的；闪耀的，灯火辉煌的 | |
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laden
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| adj.装满了的；充满了的；负了重担的；苦恼的 | |
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82
extravagant
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| adj.奢侈的；过分的；(言行等)放肆的 | |
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profuse
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| adj.很多的，大量的，极其丰富的 | |
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fussy
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| adj.为琐事担忧的，过分装饰的，爱挑剔的 | |
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85
sanctuary
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| n.圣所，圣堂，寺庙；禁猎区，保护区 | |
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86
renaissance
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| n.复活，复兴，文艺复兴 | |
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possessed
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| adj.疯狂的；拥有的，占有的 | |
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uncouth
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| adj.无教养的，粗鲁的 | |
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commemorate
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| vt.纪念，庆祝 | |
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canopy
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| n.天篷，遮篷 | |
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primitive
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| adj.原始的；简单的；n.原(始)人，原始事物 | |
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standing
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| n.持续，地位；adj.永久的，不动的，直立的，不流动的 | |
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rumble
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| n.隆隆声；吵嚷；v.隆隆响；低沉地说 | |
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94
delightful
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| adj.令人高兴的，使人快乐的 | |
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95
jumbled
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| adj.混乱的；杂乱的 | |
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refreshment
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| n.恢复，精神爽快，提神之事物；（复数）refreshments:点心，茶点 | |
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