In defence it can be claimed that the moral atmosphere in Monte Carlo is not so vitiated as it is in London or in Paris. There are visitors to the principality—both men and women—who are indulgently described as “undesirable”; but they are not peculiar3 to Monte Carlo, nor do they form even a conspicuous4 item in its holiday population.
Moreover the innocent visitor to the town is not of necessity thrust into the society of these people. If they are not desired they can be avoided as easily as they can be at Trouville or at Brighton. Monte Carlo may not be sanctimonious5, but it does not flaunt6 its vices7 as some towns do their virtues9.
Moreover so well is Monte Carlo controlled that the young lady, when necessity demands, can walk from the Opera House to her hotel without fear of being incommoded, a venture that she would not essay in either London or Paris; while she will see less to offend her on the Casino Terrace than in the Bois de Boulogne. As for the young man he is more free from molestation10 in the boulevards of Monte Carlo than he would be in Regent Street.
Those who wish to live the plain, unemotional life of a French country town will find that Monte Carlo fulfils their needs. They will meet with neither shocks nor distractions11 unless they seek them; for the circle within which the florid society of the town revolves12 is—like the roulette wheel—extremely small; whereas the quiet streets of Monaco, the olive groves13, the hill paths, the lonely walks form a world that opens far.
The Gambling14.—The strictures bestowed15 upon the gaming rooms are apt to be a little violent and sweeping16. I assume that no one can say a word in favour of gambling, nor even excuse it. It is no doubt a feeble apology to claim that there are degrees of gambling, that every race-course and every Bourse exhibits a more pernicious and more damaging form of “play” than can be laid to the charge of the Casino. The gambler at Monte Carlo injures no one directly but himself. He knows at least that the Administration is above suspicion and that the same virtue8 cannot be claimed for the whole body of bookmakers. Gambling on the public markets may implicate17 innocent people to their undoing18 and when it deals with the necessaries of life and leads to the making of “corners” in this commodity or in that it may involve a whole community in loss and distress19. There is indeed a wide difference between gambling with plaques20 on a green cloth and gambling with corn.
MONTE CARLO: THE TERRACE, CHRISTMAS DAY.
Play at the Casino is for the reckless rich and the foolish and these happen to be two varieties of mankind peculiarly difficult to control. When once it is understood that, in the long run, the Tables must win and do win then let the poor man be advised. The fool will not accept advice, the rich man does not need it and so the game goes on.
It is, no doubt, an equally feeble defence to point out that the Casino does great good with its gains. It keeps the little principality in perfect order and makes it a reliable health resort. It is no vain boast to say that Monte Carlo is the cleanest and trimmest town in France, that it is dustless and that its sanitation21 is good. The Casino provides the police and the public officers, maintains the roads and a garden which is the delight of many, while it affords to its people a degree of comfort and security which is not to be belittled22 at the present day. Moreover through funds derived23 from the Administration churches and museums are built, schools and hospitals are maintained and real poverty is abolished. These facts do not make gambling a virtue, but they serve to temper a slashing24 and wholly destructive criticism.
A large proportion of people gamble for what they call “the fun of the thing.” The term is difficult to define, but if they find amusement and can afford that amusement there is little to be said.
It is unnecessary to describe the salles de jeu. They have been pictured—with exact or inexact details—a hundred times and have figured more often in works of fiction than have any other actual apartments in the world. The miscellaneous people who cluster round the tables are said to provide an interesting study in faces. The study is limited. All are supposed to be “playing”—playing, it may be assumed, as children play at a game—but their countenances25 are so sad and so serious that a stranger to the “games” of modern life might think that they were sitting round a post-mortem table with a deceased person laid out on the cloth. An observer, endowed with especial gifts might detect evidences of greed, of anxiety, of despair, of forlorn hope, but to an ordinary looker-on there is little to note beyond a general expression of uneasy boredom26.
The Pigeon Shooting.—There is one blot27 on Monte Carlo—a large, crimson28 blot—in the form of the pigeon shooting. This diversion takes place on a pleasant green just below the terrace of the Casino, between it and the sea. There lies a level lawn upon which one might expect to see lads and lasses playing croquet; but in the centre of the grass are certain slabs29 of concrete arranged in a curve with horrible precision. They may be the marks upon which blindfolded30 criminals are stood when ranged out to be shot, but this execution yard is used for a different purpose.
On the concrete disks, when the sport is in progress, iron traps are placed and into each of these a pigeon, half-crazed with fright, is stuffed. The trap drops open with a clatter31, the bird sees before it the quiet blue of heaven, rises on its wings, and in a second is either maimed or dead. If not too badly wounded it may flutter over the fence and fall into the sea to be grabbed by a man in a boat, for some half-dozen boats are always waiting under the lee of the rock for such choice windfalls.
People in some numbers watch this vile32 massacre33 from the terrace, but their concern—almost to a man—is with the pigeon. If the pigeon escapes unharmed, as occasionally happens, there is a gasp34 of relief and gratification. The bird so saved generally alights on the Casino roof and, in course of time, no doubt joins the fearless crowd of pigeons who haunt the roadway and strut35 among the out-of-door tables of the Café de Paris. There is a curious bond uniting this community of birds, the common tie of having been condemned36 to death and of having been by accident reprieved37.
In pigeon shooting from traps there is not the faintest element of sport. It is merely an exhibition of mean brutality38 which is totally opposed to the British conception of sport and it is gratifying to note that among the competitors in this contemptible39 game an English name is uncommon40. The terrified pigeon pegged41 out to be shot at has practically no chance, while the skill displayed by the most apt of the pseudo-sportsmen is of a paltry42 order.
To realise a turning of the tables it should happen one day that the sides of the trap would drop and reveal, not a shivering pigeon, but a live man-eating tiger who, with his yellow and black stripes showing well against the green, would stalk, snarling43, towards the firing party. It would be interesting to see these deadly marksmen bolt screaming right and left and throw themselves into the sea to be picked up by the boatmen on the look-out for wounded pigeons.
The Theatre.—The opera, the concerts and the minor44 entertainments at Monte Carlo are famous and are allowed to be of very high order. A series of ballets also occupies the season and these too are approved by heads of families. It is to be owned that in most of the ballets a love element is prominent, but the love-making is conducted on such formal and gymnastic lines that it is not likely to encourage imitators.
The young man, according to accepted practice, pursues the lady. In doing so he revolves like a top, while she also gyrates after the manner of that toy. He rubs his chest with his hand to show that his heart is affected45. She then lifts her foot above her head to show that she is unmoved by the information. He pursues her again but this time with bounds. She retreats with tiny steps and ultimately takes refuge in the extreme corner of the stage by the footlights. Here she wriggles46 her shoulders and puts a forefinger47 in the corner of her mouth. He is much encouraged by these evidences of a dawning amiability49 and leaps repeatedly into the air. They then dance together with some exuberance50 and finally he grasps her by the waist and turns her upside down, so that her head rests on the boards. This shows that they are engaged; a conclusion which is approved by a sudden crowd of lightly clad villagers in antics of bewildering violence.
The Dog Show.—A feature of the season at Monte Carlo is the Dog Show. It is held on the terrace and is unique of its kind. It is not really a dog show but rather a dogs’ afternoon party or conversazione, where dogs of both sexes meet, renew acquaintances, gossip after their fashion with much tail-wagging and at times cut one another or quarrel. There are no stands upon which the dogs are staged, no kennels51, no baskets with rugs in which they lie curled up and bored to death, no posts to which they can be tied and howl. There are no placards, no cards, no advertisements of dog biscuits, no straw and, indeed, none of the paraphernalia52 of an actual dog show.
The affair is, in reality, a Show of Dog Owners held for the edification and amusement of the dogs and, incidentally, of others. The dog owners (mostly ladies) are dressed in their very best, as they should be when on show, and are led about by the dogs through a cheerful, rambling53 crowd. At intervals54 a man with a megaphone shouts from the bandstand the names of certain dog owners. Whereupon the dogs lead their owners, thus selected, into a circle beneath the megaphone and some judging takes place. There is a general hubbub55, much chattering56 and barking and some craning of necks when an exceptionally pretty owner occupies the ring.
At the end rosettes, as badges of merit, are handed to the fortunate and are affixed58 to the dogs’ collars. The dog who is pleased with what his owner has won trots60 off with contentment and with the lady; but the dog who is dissatisfied sits obstinately61 down, in spite of all protests, and proceeds to remove the offensive emblem62 with his foot.
Golf.—In the early hours of the day there is often a spectacle provided in Monte Carlo which is difficult to appreciate. A number of persons—young, middle-aged48 and ancient, male and female—will arise at an unwonted hour, scramble64 through breakfast and start to climb up a cliff of 3,000 feet. They cannot be making this arduous65 ascent66 to see the sun rise, for the sun is already up. They can hardly be contemplating67 a view from the height, for the hill may be hidden in mist. They could not be hastening to a pilgrimage church to pray, because they do not look devotional enough; nor is there a suggestion of piety68 in their dress, for they wear boots heavy with nails, knickerbockers and a reckless type of hat.
They are ascending70 some 3,000 feet under arduous conditions for the purpose of knocking a ball—a small and expensive ball—along the ground with a stick. This is golf; a proceeding71 that is with many one of the rare joys of life. Golf has many charms and not the least is that it is a game for everyone. It fires the youth with ambition and comforts the aged, for it fosters the delusion72 that the end of their days is not yet. The inefficient73 can play with the expert, without heartburnings and without reproach and receive sympathy in the place of sarcasm74. The lamb, indeed, can lie down with the lion and now and then bleat75, in the golfer’s tongue, “like as we lie.” The man who wishes to be alone can play alone. The man who loves company can “go round” in a party of four and chatter57 to them all at once and all the time. Golf too is a discipline, for the spirit of golf is hope. The golfer who has abandoned hope is lost. Lost too is the fatalist who knows he is in a bunker before he gets there.
MONTE CARLO: THE CASINO GARDEN.
Golf, moreover, is played under pleasant conditions in the open air, among sand dunes76, or by sea beaches, or on breezy downs and in light-hearted surroundings; for there are few links that are not picturesque77 and cheery. It is besides a pleasant game to watch for the human element in it is so interesting. There is, for example, that fascinating disproportion between the effort made and the result that may be attained78. The man at the tee stands with rigid79 limbs, with every muscle tense, with clenched80 teeth and a fixed59 glare in the eye. Then comes a swish with a club that—if a sword—would decapitate an ox and, as a result, the ball dribbles81 languidly a few mocking feet. If the man fails by misapplied violence the lady is apt to fail by moulding her action on the photographic pose of lady players in the society journals. She wants to get to the “follow through” attitude, when her club will be in the air, her face in a good light and the tip of her right shoe just touching82 the ground.
The caddies too are an interesting company to watch. Being young they are unable to restrain the expression of the emotions and this is often disconcerting. When a fine shot is made the aspect of the caddie is that of serious anxiety, for he has to keep the ball in sight. When a really bad stroke is taken he must laugh and when he is compelled—in order to conceal83 his laughter—to bury his face in the breast of a fellow-caddie the sight of the convulsed boy, hanging on to a friend, calls for great restraint on the part of the player.
The fragments of English picked up by foreign caddies are always curious and nearly always unhappy. I recall a caddie in Egypt who spoke84 nothing but Arabic; but who, after a very woeful shot burst out, to my surprise, with the petulant85 remark, “Hell’s own luck!” I learnt later that he used to “carry” for a profane86 judge.
An excellent motor-bus service takes the golfer up to the links direct, or, if he prefers it, he can ascend69 by train to La Turbie and climb the rest of the way by the path. The links are on a breezy plateau just below the peak of Mont Agel and at the height of some 3,000 feet above the sea. It is a plateau that means well, that intends to be orderly but is always backsliding and reverting87 to savagery88. It is constantly tempted89 to break out into a precipice90 or lapse91 into a gorge92 but restrains itself just in time. Its praiseworthy efforts to become a green plateau are almost pathetic but it gives way often and original sin crops out in the form of horrible rocks.
The result is an area of rugged93 land of great variety and picturesqueness94, a beautiful medley95 of half-tamed meads and wild boulders96, of smooth lawns like sheets of green velvet97 amid grey and wizened98 crags. The view is astounding99. To the north are the Maritime100 Alps, peak after peak, deep in snow; to the south is the warm, blue Mediterranean101 and, often enough, the ghostly island of Corsica lying on the sea like a lilac cloud. On either side is a stretch of coast of immeasurable extent, leading far down into Italy on the east and, on the west, ranging beyond the Lerin Islands and the Esterels to St. Tropez, near Hyères, a distance of some fifty miles. The club house is a model of modern comfort and as the restaurant is controlled by the H?tel de Paris the golfer and the crowd of visitors can obtain as good a lunch on this bare mountain-top as they would obtain in Monte Carlo and that too with a better appetite. The success of the club is largely due to the untiring efforts of the secretary, Mr. Galbraith Horn, whose geniality102, capacity and kindness are held in grateful memory by every visitor to Mont Agel.
Coming back from the links in the motor-bus the whispered conversations that may be overheard are illustrative and will vary much according to the speaker. A fat man may be saying, “The gravy103 was the best I ever tasted,” and the lean man, “Although I did it in five I had to halve104 the hole”; while a lady may remark, “Well! how she could come out in that hat I don’t know!”
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corrupt
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| v.贿赂，收买；adj.腐败的，贪污的 | |
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accusation
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| n.控告，指责，谴责 | |
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peculiar
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| adj.古怪的，异常的；特殊的，特有的 | |
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conspicuous
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| adj.明眼的，惹人注目的；炫耀的，摆阔气的 | |
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sanctimonious
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| adj.假装神圣的，假装虔诚的，假装诚实的 | |
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flaunt
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| vt.夸耀，夸饰 | |
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vices
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| 缺陷( vice的名词复数 )； 恶习； 不道德行为； 台钳 | |
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virtue
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| n.德行，美德；贞操；优点；功效，效力 | |
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virtues
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| 美德( virtue的名词复数 )； 德行； 优点； 长处 | |
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molestation
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| n.骚扰，干扰，调戏；折磨 | |
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distractions
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| n.使人分心的事[人]( distraction的名词复数 )；娱乐，消遣；心烦意乱；精神错乱 | |
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revolves
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| v.（使）旋转( revolve的第三人称单数 )；细想 | |
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groves
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| 树丛，小树林( grove的名词复数 ) | |
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gambling
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| n.赌博；投机 | |
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bestowed
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| 赠给，授予( bestow的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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sweeping
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| adj.范围广大的，一扫无遗的 | |
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implicate
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| vt.使牵连其中，涉嫌 | |
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undoing
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| n.毁灭的原因，祸根；破坏，毁灭 | |
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distress
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| n.苦恼，痛苦，不舒适；不幸；vt.使悲痛 | |
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plaques
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| （纪念性的）匾牌( plaque的名词复数 )； 纪念匾； 牙斑； 空斑 | |
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sanitation
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| n.公共卫生，环境卫生，卫生设备 | |
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belittled
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| 使显得微小，轻视，贬低( belittle的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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derived
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| vi.起源；由来；衍生；导出v.得到( derive的过去式和过去分词 )；（从…中）得到获得；源于；（从…中）提取 | |
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slashing
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| adj.尖锐的；苛刻的；鲜明的；乱砍的v.挥砍( slash的现在分词 )；鞭打；割破；削减 | |
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countenances
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| n.面容( countenance的名词复数 )；表情；镇静；道义支持 | |
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boredom
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| n.厌烦，厌倦，乏味，无聊 | |
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blot
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| vt.弄脏（用吸墨纸）吸干；n.污点，污渍 | |
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crimson
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| n./adj.深(绯)红色(的)；vi.脸变绯红色 | |
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slabs
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| n.厚板，平板，厚片( slab的名词复数 )；厚胶片 | |
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blindfolded
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| v.（尤指用布）挡住（某人）的视线( blindfold的过去式 )；蒙住（某人）的眼睛；使不理解；蒙骗 | |
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clatter
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| v./n.(使)发出连续而清脆的撞击声 | |
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vile
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| adj.卑鄙的，可耻的，邪恶的；坏透的 | |
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massacre
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| n.残杀，大屠杀；v.残杀，集体屠杀 | |
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gasp
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| n.喘息，气喘；v.喘息；气吁吁他说 | |
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strut
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| v.肿胀，鼓起；大摇大摆地走；炫耀；支撑；撑开；n.高视阔步；支柱，撑杆 | |
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condemned
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| adj. 被责难的, 被宣告有罪的 动词condemn的过去式和过去分词 | |
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reprieved
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| v.缓期执行（死刑）( reprieve的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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brutality
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| n.野蛮的行为，残忍，野蛮 | |
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contemptible
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| adj.可鄙的，可轻视的，卑劣的 | |
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uncommon
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| adj.罕见的，非凡的，不平常的 | |
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41
pegged
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| v.用夹子或钉子固定( peg的过去式和过去分词 )；使固定在某水平 | |
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42
paltry
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| adj.无价值的，微不足道的 | |
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43
snarling
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| v.（指狗）吠，嗥叫， （人）咆哮( snarl的现在分词 )；咆哮着说，厉声地说 | |
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44
minor
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| adj.较小(少)的，较次要的；n.辅修学科；vi.辅修 | |
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affected
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| adj.不自然的，假装的 | |
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46
wriggles
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| n.蠕动，扭动( wriggle的名词复数 )v.扭动，蠕动，蜿蜒行进( wriggle的第三人称单数 )；（使身体某一部位）扭动；耍滑不做，逃避（应做的事等） | |
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47
forefinger
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| n.食指 | |
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48
aged
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| adj.年老的，陈年的 | |
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amiability
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| n.和蔼可亲的，亲切的，友善的 | |
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50
exuberance
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| n.丰富；繁荣 | |
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51
kennels
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| n.主人外出时的小动物寄养处，养狗场；狗窝( kennel的名词复数 )；养狗场 | |
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paraphernalia
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| n.装备；随身用品 | |
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53
rambling
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| adj.[建]凌乱的，杂乱的 | |
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54
intervals
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| n.[军事]间隔( interval的名词复数 )；间隔时间；[数学]区间；（戏剧、电影或音乐会的）幕间休息 | |
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55
hubbub
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| n.嘈杂；骚乱 | |
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chattering
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| n. （机器振动发出的）咔嗒声，(鸟等)鸣，啁啾 adj. 喋喋不休的，啾啾声的 动词chatter的现在分词形式 | |
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chatter
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| vi.／n.喋喋不休；短促尖叫；(牙齿)打战 | |
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58
affixed
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| adj.[医]附着的，附着的v.附加( affix的过去式和过去分词 )；粘贴；加以；盖（印章） | |
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59
fixed
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| adj.固定的，不变的，准备好的；(计算机)固定的 | |
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60
trots
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| 小跑，急走( trot的名词复数 )； 匆匆忙忙地走 | |
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61
obstinately
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| ad.固执地，顽固地 | |
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62
emblem
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| n.象征，标志；徽章 | |
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middle-aged
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| adj.中年的 | |
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scramble
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| v.爬行，攀爬，杂乱蔓延，碎片，片段，废料 | |
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arduous
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| adj.艰苦的，费力的，陡峭的 | |
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ascent
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| n.(声望或地位)提高；上升，升高；登高 | |
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contemplating
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| 深思，细想，仔细考虑( contemplate的现在分词 )； 注视，凝视； 考虑接受（发生某事的可能性）； 深思熟虑，沉思，苦思冥想 | |
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piety
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| n.虔诚，虔敬 | |
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ascend
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| vi.渐渐上升，升高；vt.攀登，登上 | |
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ascending
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| adj.上升的，向上的 | |
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proceeding
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| n.行动，进行，(pl.)会议录，学报 | |
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delusion
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| n.谬见，欺骗，幻觉，迷惑 | |
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inefficient
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| adj.效率低的，无效的 | |
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sarcasm
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| n.讥讽，讽刺，嘲弄，反话 （adj.sarcastic） | |
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75
bleat
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| v.咩咩叫，(讲)废话，哭诉；n.咩咩叫，废话，哭诉 | |
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76
dunes
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| 沙丘( dune的名词复数 ) | |
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picturesque
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| adj.美丽如画的，（语言）生动的，绘声绘色的 | |
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attained
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| （通常经过努力）实现( attain的过去式和过去分词 )； 达到； 获得； 达到（某年龄、水平、状况） | |
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rigid
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| adj.严格的，死板的；刚硬的，僵硬的 | |
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clenched
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| v.紧握，抓紧，咬紧( clench的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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81
dribbles
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| n.涓滴( dribble的名词复数 )；细滴；少量（液体）v.流口水( dribble的第三人称单数 )；（使液体）滴下或作细流；运球，带球 | |
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82
touching
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| adj.动人的，使人感伤的 | |
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83
conceal
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| v.隐藏，隐瞒，隐蔽 | |
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84
spoke
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| n.（车轮的）辐条；轮辐；破坏某人的计划；阻挠某人的行动 v.讲，谈（speak的过去式）；说；演说；从某种观点来说 | |
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petulant
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| adj.性急的，暴躁的 | |
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profane
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| adj.亵神的，亵渎的；vt.亵渎，玷污 | |
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reverting
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| 恢复( revert的现在分词 )； 重提； 回到…上； 归还 | |
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savagery
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| n.野性 | |
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tempted
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| v.怂恿（某人）干不正当的事；冒…的险（tempt的过去分词） | |
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precipice
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| n.悬崖，危急的处境 | |
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lapse
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| n.过失，流逝，失效，抛弃信仰，间隔；vi.堕落，停止，失效，流逝；vt.使失效 | |
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gorge
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| n.咽喉，胃，暴食，山峡；v.塞饱，狼吞虎咽地吃 | |
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rugged
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| adj.高低不平的，粗糙的，粗壮的，强健的 | |
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picturesqueness
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medley
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| n.混合 | |
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boulders
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| n.卵石( boulder的名词复数 )；巨砾；（受水或天气侵蚀而成的）巨石；漂砾 | |
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velvet
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| n.丝绒，天鹅绒；adj.丝绒制的，柔软的 | |
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wizened
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| adj.凋谢的；枯槁的 | |
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astounding
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| adj.使人震惊的vt.使震惊，使大吃一惊astound的现在分词) | |
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100
maritime
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| adj.海的，海事的，航海的，近海的，沿海的 | |
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101
Mediterranean
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| adj.地中海的；地中海沿岸的 | |
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102
geniality
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| n.和蔼，诚恳；愉快 | |
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103
gravy
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| n.肉汁；轻易得来的钱，外快 | |
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104
halve
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| vt.分成两半，平分；减少到一半 | |
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