The hill-side is of interest on account of the number of pre-historic walled camps which are to be found on its slopes. These camps form a series of strongholds which extends from Cap d’Ail to Roquebrune. There are some seven of these forts within this range. The one furthest to the west is Le Castellar de la Brasca in the St. Laurent valley on the Nice side of Cap d’Ail. Then come L’Abeglio just above the Cap d’Ail church, the Bautucan on the site of the old signal station above the Mid-Corniche, the Castellaretto over the Boulevard de l’Observatoire, Le Cros near the mule-path to La Turbie and lastly Mont des Mules2 and Le Ricard near Roquebrune.
Of these the camp most easily viewed—but by no means the most easy to visit—is that of the Mont des Mules, on the way up to La Turbie. This is a bare hill of rough rocks upon the eastern eminence3 of which is a camp surrounded by a very massive wall built up of huge unchiselled stones. It is fitly called a “camp of the giants,” for no weaklings ever handled such masses of rock as these. The Romans who first penetrated5 into the country must have viewed these military works with amazement6, for competent writers affirm that they date from about 2,000 years before the birth of Christ.
Along this hill-side also are traces of the old Roman road, fragments which have been but little disturbed and which, perhaps, are still paved with the very stones over which have marched the legions from the Imperial City. To the east of La Turbie and just below La Grande Corniche are two Roman milestones7, side by side, in excellent preservation9. There are two, because they have been placed in position by two different surveyors.
They stand by the ancient way and show clearly enough the mileage—603. The next milestone8 (604) stood on the Aurelian Way just outside La Turbie, at the point where the road is crossed by the railway, but only the base of it remains10. Between it and the previous milestone is a Roman wayside fountain under a rounded arch. It is still used as a water supply by the cottagers and the conduit that leads to it can be traced for some distance up the hill.
The first Roman milestone to the west of La Turbie (No. 605) is on the side of the Roman road as it turns down towards Laghet.[49] This milestone is the finest in the district and is remarkably11 well preserved. Those who comment on the closeness of these milliaires must remember that the Roman mile was 142 yards shorter than the English.
THE ROMAN FOUNTAIN NEAR LA TURBIE.
Above the Mont des Mules is Mont Justicier. It is a hill so bleak12 and so desolate13 that it is little more than a wind-swept pile of stones. It has been used for centuries as a quarry14 and much of the material employed in the building of the Roman trophy15 at La Turbie came from its barren sides. Its dreariness16 is rendered more dismal17 by its history and by the memories that cloud its past. These memories do not recall a busy throng18 of quarrymen who roared out chanties as they worked at their cranes and whose chatter19 could be heard above the thud of the pick and the clink of the chisel4. They recall the time when this dread20 mound21 was the Hill of Death and a terror in the land.
On the summit of Mont Justicier is a tall, solitary22 column. It appears, at a distance, to be a shaft23 of marble; but it is made up of small pieces of white stone cemented together. It is a large column nearly three feet in diameter and some fifteen feet in height. Near it is the base of a second column of identical proportions to the first. The distance between the two pillars is twelve feet and they stand on a platform which faces southwards across the sea. These columns were the posts of a gigantic gallows24. Their summits were connected by a cross beam and from that beam at least six ropes could dangle25. This is why the mound is named Mont Justicier, or, as it would be called in England, Gallows Hill.
The Mount became a place of execution in the Middle Ages and towards the end of the seventeenth century there would never be a time when bodies could not be seen swinging from the beam of the great gallows, since it was here that the brigands26 known as the Barbets were hanged.
The term “Barbet” has a somewhat curious history. It was originally a nickname given by the Catholics to the Protestant Vaudois and later to the Protestants of the Cevennes and elsewhere. The name had origin in the circumstance that the Vaudois called their ministers “barbes” or “uncles,” in somewhat the same way that the Catholics call their priests “fathers.”
The term was later applied27 to Protestant heretics generally and notably28 to the Albigensians who held to the mountains of Piedmont and Dauphiné. They refused baptism, the Mass, the adoration29 of the Cross, the traffic in indulgences. “What was originally a logical revolt of pure reason against dogmatic authority soon took unfortunately varying forms, and then reached unpardonable extremes.”[50] These men were outlawed30, were hunted down and massacred and treated as rogues31 and vagabonds of a pernicious type. For their ill name they were themselves not a little to blame. They kept to the mountains from which great efforts were made to dislodge them about the end of the seventeenth century.
The term Barbets was subsequently given to the inhabitants of the valleys of the Alps who lived by plunder32 and contraband33 and finally to any brigands or robbers who had their lairs34 among the mountains. “In the year 1792,” writes Rosio,[51] “irregular bands were formed, under the name of Barbets, which were trained and commanded by military officers devoted35 to Sardinia. These bands of men harassed36 the French army, pillaged37 the camps and held up convoys38. When the House of Savoy lost its hold on the Continent the Barbets divided into smaller companies and gave themselves up to open brigandage39. Their habitat was in the mountains of Levens, of L’Escarene, Eze and La Turbie. Near Levens the unfortunates who fell into their hands were hurled40 into the Vesubie from a rock 300 metres high which is still called Le Saut des Fran?ais.”
GALLOWS HILL.
MONT JUSTICIER: THE TWO PILLARS OF THE GALLOWS.
At the foot of Mont Justicier, near to the gallows and by the side of the actual Roman road, is the little chapel41 of St. Roch. It is a very ancient chapel and its years weigh heavily upon it, for it has nearly come to the end of its days. It is built of rough stones beneath a coating of plaster and has a cove42 roof covered with red tiles. The base of the altar still stands, traces of frescoes43 can be seen on the walls and on one side of the altar is an ambry or small, square wall-press. It was in this sorrowful little chapel that criminals about to be executed made confession44 and received the last offices of the Church.
A sadder place than this in which to die could hardly be realised. The land around is so harsh, the hill so heartless, the spot so lonely. And yet many troubled souls have here bid farewell to life and have started hence on their flight into the unknown. Before the eyes of the dying men would stretch the everlasting45 sea. On the West—where the day comes to an end—the world is shut out by the vast bastion of the Tête de Chien; but on the East, as far as the eye can reach, all is open and welcoming and full of pity. It is to the East that the closing eyes would turn, to the East where the dawn would break and where would glow, in kindly46 tints47 of rose and gold, the promise of another day.
There is one lonely tree on this Hill of Death—a shivering pine; while, as if to show the kindliness48 of little things, some daisies and a bush of wild thyme have taken up their place at the foot of the gallows.
[49]
The ancient road lies above and to the west of the modern road to the convent.
[50]
“Old Provence,” by T. A. Cook, Vol. 2, p. 169.
[51]
“Les Alpes Maritimes,” 1902.
THE CHAPEL OF ST. ROCH.
点击收听单词发音
1 diligently | |
ad.industriously;carefully | |
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2 mules | |
骡( mule的名词复数 ); 拖鞋; 顽固的人; 越境运毒者 | |
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3 eminence | |
n.卓越,显赫;高地,高处;名家 | |
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4 chisel | |
n.凿子;v.用凿子刻,雕,凿 | |
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5 penetrated | |
adj. 击穿的,鞭辟入里的 动词penetrate的过去式和过去分词形式 | |
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6 amazement | |
n.惊奇,惊讶 | |
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7 milestones | |
n.重要事件( milestone的名词复数 );重要阶段;转折点;里程碑 | |
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8 milestone | |
n.里程碑;划时代的事件 | |
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9 preservation | |
n.保护,维护,保存,保留,保持 | |
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10 remains | |
n.剩余物,残留物;遗体,遗迹 | |
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11 remarkably | |
ad.不同寻常地,相当地 | |
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12 bleak | |
adj.(天气)阴冷的;凄凉的;暗淡的 | |
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13 desolate | |
adj.荒凉的,荒芜的;孤独的,凄凉的;v.使荒芜,使孤寂 | |
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14 quarry | |
n.采石场;v.采石;费力地找 | |
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15 trophy | |
n.优胜旗,奖品,奖杯,战胜品,纪念品 | |
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16 dreariness | |
沉寂,可怕,凄凉 | |
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17 dismal | |
adj.阴沉的,凄凉的,令人忧郁的,差劲的 | |
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18 throng | |
n.人群,群众;v.拥挤,群集 | |
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19 chatter | |
vi./n.喋喋不休;短促尖叫;(牙齿)打战 | |
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20 dread | |
vt.担忧,忧虑;惧怕,不敢;n.担忧,畏惧 | |
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21 mound | |
n.土墩,堤,小山;v.筑堤,用土堆防卫 | |
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22 solitary | |
adj.孤独的,独立的,荒凉的;n.隐士 | |
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23 shaft | |
n.(工具的)柄,杆状物 | |
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24 gallows | |
n.绞刑架,绞台 | |
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25 dangle | |
v.(使)悬荡,(使)悬垂 | |
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26 brigands | |
n.土匪,强盗( brigand的名词复数 ) | |
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27 applied | |
adj.应用的;v.应用,适用 | |
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28 notably | |
adv.值得注意地,显著地,尤其地,特别地 | |
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29 adoration | |
n.爱慕,崇拜 | |
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30 outlawed | |
宣布…为不合法(outlaw的过去式与过去分词形式) | |
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31 rogues | |
n.流氓( rogue的名词复数 );无赖;调皮捣蛋的人;离群的野兽 | |
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32 plunder | |
vt.劫掠财物,掠夺;n.劫掠物,赃物;劫掠 | |
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33 contraband | |
n.违禁品,走私品 | |
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34 lairs | |
n.(野兽的)巢穴,窝( lair的名词复数 );(人的)藏身处 | |
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35 devoted | |
adj.忠诚的,忠实的,热心的,献身于...的 | |
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36 harassed | |
adj. 疲倦的,厌烦的 动词harass的过去式和过去分词 | |
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37 pillaged | |
v.抢劫,掠夺( pillage的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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38 convoys | |
n.(有护航的)船队( convoy的名词复数 );车队;护航(队);护送队 | |
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39 brigandage | |
n.抢劫;盗窃;土匪;强盗 | |
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40 hurled | |
v.猛投,用力掷( hurl的过去式和过去分词 );大声叫骂 | |
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41 chapel | |
n.小教堂,殡仪馆 | |
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42 cove | |
n.小海湾,小峡谷 | |
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43 frescoes | |
n.壁画( fresco的名词复数 );温壁画技法,湿壁画 | |
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44 confession | |
n.自白,供认,承认 | |
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45 everlasting | |
adj.永恒的,持久的,无止境的 | |
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46 kindly | |
adj.和蔼的,温和的,爽快的;adv.温和地,亲切地 | |
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47 tints | |
色彩( tint的名词复数 ); 带白的颜色; (淡色)染发剂; 痕迹 | |
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48 kindliness | |
n.厚道,亲切,友好的行为 | |
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