A short distance out of the town we passed two immense sawmills on the lake shore where the huge logs cut on the surrounding hills and floated to the mills are converted into merchantable82 lumber5. Great log-rafts could be seen moored6 along the banks or being towed by little steam tugs7. A railroad closely following the shore line gives outlet8 to the finished product. Klamath Lake is now playing a similar part in lumbering9 to that which Tahoe underwent thirty years ago and we must confess that it does not add to the beauty of the scene. Yet we realized when we ascended10 the long grades which brought us to splendid vantage points commanding practically the whole lake, that Klamath was very beautiful and picturesque12—not the equal of Tahoe, it is true, but a lake that would attract many pilgrims on its own account were it not overshadowed by more famous rivals.
The day was rather dull and gave little opportunity to judge what the play of color might be under a bright, clear sky, but the lake is shallow and probably the blue monotone that we saw on Goose Lake would prevail under such conditions. On the opposite side the purple hills come up to the very shore and beyond them the wooded crests14 stretch out in a vast panorama16 to the blue haze17 of the horizon. Below us was an extensive marsh18 covered with reeds through which a monster steam dredge was eating its way and rapidly converting the reed-covered swamp into wonderfully fertile grain fields, some of which were already bearing bountiful harvests.83 Between the main body of the lake and Pelican21 Bay, an offshoot at the northern end, we crossed Williamson River, a broad, clear, full-flowing stream whose still surface was occasionally ruffled22 by the breeze.
Leaving the lake we sped onward23 over a level and fairly good road winding24 through meadows studded with pine trees and passing Klamath Agency, the capital of the Indian Reservation. Fort Klamath is a town of three hundred people just outside the reservation. The Indian trade and the outfitting25 and supplies required by tourists make it a lively place during the season—from July to September inclusive. The principal resource of the roundabout country, an obliging garage owner informed us, is cattle raising, in which most of the people of the town are interested directly or indirectly26. It is a wonderful grazing country, since the grass is green the year round except when covered by snow, and wild hay provides winter feed in abundance.
The road begins a steady ascent27 after leaving Fort Klamath, rising over three thousand feet in the twenty miles between the town and Crater Lake Lodge28 on the rim13 of the lake. The whole distance is through pine forests and the road was only fair until we reached the confines of the park. After entering the park we were84 delighted to find a splendid new road that might almost be described as a boulevard had recently been built by the government. It is wide, smooth, and beautifully engineered and we were told is to be hard surfaced in due time. It passes some magnificent scenery, following for several miles the canyon29 of Annie Creek30, whose commonplace name gives little suggestion of the stupendous gorge31 through which the diminutive32 stream dashes. It is a vast, precipitous chasm33 hundreds of feet in depth, almost rivaling the canyon of the Yellowstone in size, though it lacks the glorious color of the latter. For eight miles the road follows this gigantic gorge and from many points we had glimpses of its pine-studded depths. At one point it widens into the “Garden of the Gods” with green meadows and sparkling waterfalls. Along the sides of the canyon are curious formations—columns, pinnacles34, and weirdly35 carved forms—all composed of igneous37 rock from which the surrounding gravel38 has at some time been washed away. Splendid pines border the road throughout the park and most of the commoner varieties of conifers are seen—red cedar39, hemlock40, spruce, white pine, yellow pine, sugar pine, Douglas, silver, and red firs, and other species—and many varieties of deciduous41 trees are also represented. There were some fine individual specimens42, but in the main the trees along the85 road were smaller, as though they might be a second growth upon a burned area. Six or seven miles after entering the park we came to the official Crater Lake station, where Uncle Sam’s representative issued the proper permits and collected a moderate fee. While this necessary business was being transacted43, the lady of the party was besieged44 by a score of hungry chipmunks45 that came from crannies about the ranger’s cabin, having learned that auto46 visitors are likely to have some odd scraps47 of lunch about their car.
THE ROAD TO CRATER LAKE
From photo by Kiser’s Studio, Portland, Oregon
Just after leaving the station, we crossed Annie Creek Canyon, passing Annie Spring Camp on the opposite side, where tourists who prefer the out-of-doors can secure a floored tent and have access to a community dining room. Here we began a steady three-mile ascent to Crater Lake Lodge over the splendid new road recently completed by the government. Despite the rise of two or three hundred feet to the mile, heavy grades and sharp turns are avoided and there is room everywhere for easy passing. Heavy forests skirted the road; only occasionally was it possible to catch a panorama of rugged48 peaks through a momentary49 opening in the crowded ranks of somber50 pines.
Near our destination we came into an open space which revealed Crater Lake Lodge standing86 at the summit of a sharp incline. It is a long, gray building of rustic51 design, the first story of native stone with frame construction above. It was not completed at the time of our visit, which doubtless accounted for some of the shortcomings that we noticed during our stay. Inside there is a great rustic lounging room with an immense fireplace capable of taking a six-foot log—a very necessary convenience in a climate where there is frost every month in the year.
We were assigned a room fronting on the lake and here it was that we had our first view of this wonderful natural phenomenon. We had resolved not to let our first impression be one of piecemeal52 glimpses—we did not even look toward the lake until we reached the splendid vantage-point afforded from our open windows. The lodge stands on an eminence53 nearly fifteen hundred feet above the surface of the lake, commanding almost the entire lake as well as much of the surrounding country. My first impression is recorded in our “log book” to the effect that “no comparison seems to me so adequate as to imagine a huge, flawless lapis lazuli set in a rugged wall of variegated54 cliffs whose predominating color is pale lavender.” We did not at first observe the slight emerald ring running around the shore—we forgot the play of light and shadow over the still surface; our only thought and wonder87 was about the blue, the deepest, strangest, loveliest blue we had ever seen in any body of water; Tahoe, Como, Constance, are blue—bluer than the clearest skies—but their blue is not that of Crater Lake. Around it runs a jagged wall of precipitous cliffs, ranging from five hundred to two thousand feet in height and out beyond these lay an endless array of majestic55 mountains dominated by the spire-like peak of Mount Thielsen. It is six miles to the opposite shore, but so clear is the atmosphere that the wall comes out with startling distinctness and the mountains beyond stand wonderfully clear against the pale horizon. The clouds, which overcast56 the sky when we left Klamath, had vanished and we beheld57 the glorious spectacle of lake and mountains in the full splendor58 of the noonday sun.
When our first shock of admiration59 and surprise had softened60 a little, we observed details more carefully. To the right was Wizard Island, a cinder61 cone62 rising more than nine hundred feet from the water—it did not appear so high to us. It was covered with straggling pines and its truncated63 top showed where the crater in the strange island might be found. In front of the hotel the slope from the rim was less precipitous than elsewhere and we noticed a trail winding down to the water’s edge—we learned later the only practicable descent to the lake. At the foot88 of this trail there is a lovely green cove19; we had overlooked it in the overmastering impression of blue that had seized us at first. Then we noticed the faint emerald rim elsewhere along the shore, where the cliffs were not so abrupt64, and became slowly aware that there was more of color variation than we first imagined. A slight breeze swept the surface and a ripple65 of silver ran across the dark blue expanse. In the shadow of the almost perpendicular66 cliffs, the blue deepened to dark purple, while in the shallow bays and coves67 around the shores it shaded into pale green.
Our attention was diverted from the fascinating scene by a call for dinner and we descended68 to the dining-room, a huge apartment with finish and wainscoating in rough pine bark. On one side the windows commanded a view of Eagle Cove and a large part of the lake and cliffs, while on the other, down a vast canyon bounded by mighty70 hills, on clear days one may see Klamath Valley, with its shimmering71 lake fifty miles away, and under especially favorable conditions the gleaming pyramid of Mt. Shasta, one hundred miles distant.
The view, we agreed, was much better than the meal, of which we have not the pleasantest recollection, but we made some allowance for confusion resultant on the incomplete state of the hotel. Conditions should be better when everything89 is in order; with proper management, the Lodge has in it the possibilities of a most delightful72 resort during the season, which is usually short—from July to October. On the year of our visit the road was not open until August first, snow being ten feet deep about the Lodge on July fourth. One can not remain here after October first without taking chances of being shut in for the winter, sudden and heavy snowfalls being probable at any time.
After lunch we descended the trail leading from the Lodge to Eagle Cove and took the motor-launch trip around the lake. The descent is more than a thousand feet straight down and by the exceedingly devious73 trail must be many times that distance. The downward trek74 was strenuous75 and the return still more so; burros are to be employed later for guests who dislike to undertake the trip on foot. In many places the trail was covered by huge snowbanks which had lingered during the whole summer, and these, with the mud and water, often made considerable detours76 necessary. Time will come, no doubt, when the trail will be improved and made easier, but we found it an exceedingly hard scramble77 for people unused to strenuous effort.
From the launch one sees many aspects of the lake not to be had from any viewpoint on the rim. In the first place you become aware of the90 marvelous clearness of the water, despite its almost solid blue appearance from the shore. They told us that a white object, such as an ordinary dinner plate, for instance, could be plainly seen at a depth of one hundred and fifty feet. Fishermen can see the gamy rainbow trout78, the only variety found in the lake, sport about the bait in the crystal water. One imagines from the rim that a tumbler of the water dipped from the lake would show a cerulean tint79, but it proves as colorless and clear as the air itself. It follows that the contour of the bottom may be seen in many places, though the great depth of the water generally makes this impossible. The deepest sounding made so far, 1996 feet, is declared by authorities to be the record for any body of fresh water.
SHIP ROCK, CRATER LAKE
From painting by H. H. Bagg
The surface was as placid80 as a mill pond save for occasional ripples81 from the slight breeze. Above us towered the steep cliffs and as we drew nearer to them dashes of bright color—brilliant yellows and reds—came out in the glowing sunlight. Far above us the rugged outlines loomed82 against the pale azure83 skies and only from beneath can one get an adequate idea of the stupendous height and expanse of these mighty walls. From Eagle Cove we followed the southern shore past Castle Crest15, Garfield Peak and Vidal Crest—the latter rising 1958 feet above the91 lake, the highest point on the rim and corresponding strangely to the greatest known depth of the water. Beyond these rises the sheer wall of Dutton Cliff and just in front of it, cut off by a deep but narrow channel, the weird36 outlines of the Phantom84 Ship. The name does not seem especially applicable to the solid, rocky pinnacles that tower a hundred feet above the blue water, roughly suggesting the outlines of an old double-masted sailing ship, but they told us that under certain conditions of light and shadow the rock seemed to fade from sight against the background of Dutton Cliff—a fact responsible for its ghostly name. Though the rugged spires85 seem almost vertical86, they have been scaled by adventurous87 climbers, a feat88 not likely to tempt89 the average tourist.
Perhaps a mile farther brought us opposite Kerr Notch90, the lowest point on the rim, and some distance beyond this rose the stern outlines of Sentinel Rock. Cloud Cap Bay lies almost beneath the mountain of the same name, which was later to afford us a vantage point for a panorama of the whole lake and surrounding country. The Wine Glass, which next engaged our attention, is a queer slide of red sandstone shaped like a huge goblet91 against the walls of Grotto92 Cove. Round Top is a dome-shaped rock rising above the Palisades, a precipice93 extending92 from Grotto Cove to Cleetwood Cove, a distance of nearly two miles. Near the latter point, geologists94 declare, the last great flow of lava95 occurred, evidenced by vast masses of black volcanic96 rock.
Pumice Point, projecting sharply into the lake, cuts Cleetwood Cove from Steel Bay, over which towers the legend-haunted peak of Llao Rock, rising nearly two thousand feet above the water. Even to-day many Indians of the vicinity regard Crater Lake with superstitious97 fears and in olden times only their conjurors and medicine men dared approach the silent shores of the strange blue water. So it is not surprising that some of their legends linger about it still and that Llao Rock was reputed the home of a powerful fiend who once held mysterious sway over the region about the lake. His subjects were giant crawfish whose practice was to seize in their cruel claws any stranger who approached their haunts and to drag him under the bottomless waters. Llao and his retainers did not have everything their own way, however, for Skell, a powerful rival demon98, dwelt in the fastnesses of Klamath marshes99 far to the south and he waged deadly and unrelenting war against the guardian100 of Crater Lake. Llao, however, after ages of struggle, marked by mighty feats101 of prowess and enchantment102, finally gained the advantage and tore Skell’s heart from his body. To celebrate93 his victory he gave the reeking103 heart to his followers104, who played a savage105 ball game with it, hurling106 it from mountain to mountain in their glee. But Skell’s swift eagles seized their master’s heart in mid-air and carried it to his antelopes107, who, with the speed of the wind, bore it over the mountain ridges108 to his old haunts in the Klamath marsh. There, wonderful to relate, Skell’s body grew about the heart again and, stronger than ever, he planned vengeance109 against his victorious110 enemy. Lying in wait, he captured Llao and to prevent any miraculous111 reincarnation of his rival, the cunning Skell cut him into shreds112 which he cast into the mysterious cauldron of Crater Lake. The gluttonous113 crawfish imagined that their master had demolished114 his rival and feasted joyously115 upon the remains116, only to learn, when a few days later the head of Llao was cast into the lake, that they had devoured117 their chieftain. Perhaps they died of grief for their unwitting offense118, but be that as it may, there are none of them to-day in the blue waters of Crater Lake. But the head of Llao, the Indians assert, is still in evidence to prove their legend, though white men may call it Wizard Island. Llao’s soul dwells in the rock bearing his name and sometimes he ventures forth119 to stir up a storm on the placid waters which were once his own.
94 But here is Wizard Island just before us, a symmetrical cinder cone rising seven hundred and sixty-three feet above the lake and covered with a sparse120 growth of stunted121 pines. Geologists tell a different story of its origin from the wild legend we have just related, but surely it is quite as wonderful. They say that ages ago expiring volcanic forces pushed the island up from the floor of the crater—and it was only one of many miniature crater-mountains thus formed, though all the others are hidden by the waters of the lake. One may scramble up the steep slope of the island and descend69 into the crater—a depression one hundred feet deep by five hundred in width. At its base the island is perhaps two-thirds of a mile in diameter and it is separated from the rim by a narrow channel which bears the name of the victorious Skell of the Indian legend. On the landward side of the island is a black, rough lava bed and in one of its hollows is a dark, sinister-looking tarn122 with the weird name of Witches’ Pool. As some one has remarked, we therefore have a crater within a crater and a lake within a lake. Just opposite the island rise the Watchman and Glacier123 Peak, both of which exceed eight thousand feet in height, and whose sides slope at a very sharp angle down to the surface of the lake.
Our starting point, just below the Lodge,95 is only a mile or two from Wizard Island, and the entire round which we have described can be made in from two to four hours, according to the desire of the tourist. It is indeed a wonderful trip and if I have written of it in only a matter-of-fact way, it is because the temptation to dwell on the exhaustless theme of its weird beauty is likely to lead one to monotonous124 repetition. No one can satisfactorily describe Crater Lake or adequately express in words the subtle atmosphere of mystery and romance that hovers125 about it; one can only hope to convey enough of these things to his reader to induce him to make a personal pilgrimage to this strange and inspiring phenomenon of nature.
The ascent of the trail from the lake to the Lodge was less strenuous than we expected and they told us there was still time to drive over the new road to the summit of the Watchman, about four miles distant. It is a fine, well-engineered road, but in the main keeps away from the rim and presents vistas126 of endless mountains rather than of the lake. We were not able to reach our goal, for the road was closed about three miles from the Lodge on account of blasting. We turned about with some difficulty and as we retraced127 our way to the inn we had a superb view of the setting sun across the long array of wooded crests that stretch southward toward Klamath96 Lake. At Victor Rock, a short distance from the Lodge, we left the car and sought this splendid vantage point to view the lake at sunset. It was disappointing, if anything about Crater Lake could be disappointing, for the sun’s rays did not reach the surface as he sank behind the hills in the southwest. Only a deeper, duller blue settled over the placid water, relieved a little later by the reflection of a full moon. The sense of mystery, however, that is never absent when one views this strange “sea of silence” was deepened when the blue shadows of twilight128 settled over it and began a ghostly struggle with the pale moonbeams. Verily, you shudder129 and wonder if there is not some real foundation for these legends of the haunting spirits of Llao and Skell and perhaps—but the glowing windows of the Lodge reminded us that dinner time was at hand, something of more vital interest than speculations130 about ghosts and demons131.
WIZARD ISLAND FROM GARFIELD PEAK
Copyright by Fred H. Kiser, Portland, Oregon
A great fire of pine logs was blazing in the huge fireplace and it was grateful, indeed, for there were strong indications of frost in the air. “Better drain your radiator,” was the admonition to our driver, who had garaged the car under a group of huge pines a little distance from the Lodge—no other shelter being ready—but with his usual carefulness he had already anticipated the suggested precaution. After lunch the97 guests crowded about the fire, reading the day-old newspapers or discussing the various roads over which they had come, there being several other motor parties besides ourselves. A fisherman entered, but the only result of his five-hour cruise was a fine rainbow trout, weighing perhaps six pounds. This started talk about piscatorial132 matters and we learned that originally there were no fish of any kind in the lake. The principal life was a small crustacean133 which is found in vast numbers and is probably the basis of the big crawfish story in the legend of Llao and Skell. Mr. U. G. Steele, some thirty years ago, first stocked the lake with young rainbow trout which have thriven greatly, for now the fish are present in large numbers and many have been taken weighing as much as ten pounds. The fish are caught by fishing from vantage points on the shore or by trolling from rowboats. They are usually quick to take the hook and for their size are exceedingly game fighters. A day’s limit is five, which is quickly reached early in the season. So clear is the water that the angler can watch every move of his quarry134 from the moment it takes the bait until it is finally “landed.”
Naturally, we were curious to know of the origin, the discovery, and the geology of Crater Lake, and soon learned that Uncle Sam has anticipated98 this curiosity and has issued through the Department of the Interior a number of illustrated135 booklets and maps which are obtainable at the Lodge. A better plan, no doubt, would be to obtain these and other literature in advance of the trip, but this we had neglected. With this assistance, a few minutes enabled us to learn much of the strange lake and region we were visiting.
The name itself is suggestive of the lake’s origin. Ages ago, probably before higher animal life had appeared on the earth, there was a period of intense volcanic activity on the western coast of North America. A vast range of fire mountains extended from Mount Baker136 in Washington to Mount Lassen in California and all of them at one time were active volcanos higher and more terrible than Mount Vesuvius ever was. Among these were Mount Ranier, Mount St. Helens, Mount Adams, Mount Hood137, Mount Jefferson, the Three Sisters, Mount McLoughlin, Mount Shasta, and Mount Lassen, of which only the last still shows volcanic activity. Mightier138 than any of these was the gigantic peak which stood on the site of Crater Lake and which has been called Mount Mazama in honor of the Alpine139 Club of that name in Portland, whose investigations140 have contributed much to our knowledge of this region. It must have exceeded99 fifteen thousand feet in height, overtopping every other peak on the North American continent, and what ages it stood, a sentinel of fire and snow with no human eye to see its awful majesty141, we can not know, but it must have been for many thousands of years. Nor can we know with anything like exactness when some vast and almost unthinkable convulsion of nature tore this mighty mountain from its seat and leveled its proud bulk far below the lesser142 rivals that surrounded it. Nor can we be certain of the exact nature of the disaster that overtook it; whether it gradually disappeared through long ages or as the result of some sudden and awful convulsion is now only a matter of conjecture143, though scientific opinion inclines to the latter view. The theory is that terrific internal forces burst through the slopes of the mountain well down its gigantic sides and that the shell, weakened by loss of the molten core, collapsed144 inwardly and was fused in the white hot lavas145. This theory requires the assumption that much of the debris146 escaped in the shape of gases, leaving the vast pit where the lake now lies.
More generally accepted is the theory of a sudden and terrific explosion which scattered147 the mountain top broadcast for hundreds of miles around, a fate that overtook the volcano Krakatoa in the South Pacific. In succeeding100 ages the fiery148 crater gradually cooled and was finally filled with water from the heavy snows that fall in this region. The lake has no other source of supply and no visible outlet, but since precipitation exceeds any possible evaporation149, there must be some subterranean150 channel by which the water escapes; otherwise the lake would eventually fill to the level of the lowest point of the rim. That all volcanic action has long since ceased is proven by the fact that at a depth of three hundred feet the temperature remains the whole year round only seven degrees above the freezing point.
Such, in rough outline, is the geologic151 story of this weird region and mysterious lake. When one considers it as he floats on the steel-blue water, it gives rise to strange thoughts and sensations—here, where you drift and dream, laving your hand in the clear, cold water, once raged an inferno152 of flame so fierce that solid rock fused and flowed like burning oil. A full mile above the highest skyline of the gigantic encircling cliffs once towered a stupendous peak which has vanished as utterly153 as if it had never existed. Was it all the result of some mysterious sequence of accidents or did some Power plan and direct it all to obtain this
101
In some wild poet when he works
Without a conscience or an aim?”
The first white man to stumble upon this astounding155 spectacle was John W. Wellman, who led an exploring party to this region in 1853. They were searching for a certain Lost Cabin gold mine which proved as mythical156 as DeLeon’s Fountain of Youth. No gold did they discover in these giant hills, but they gave the world something better than gold in bringing to light one of the supremest of natural wonders. Not the slightest premonition did they have of their wonderful find.
“We suddenly came in sight of water,” declares Wellman, “and were much surprised, as we did not expect to see any lakes in this vicinity. Not until my mule157 stopped within a few feet of the rim did I look down and I believe if I had been riding a blind mule I would have gone over the edge to my death.”
The discoverers had a lively dispute over a name for the lake and finally decided158 to settle by vote whether it should be called Mysterious Lake or Deep Blue Lake. The latter name won, but in 1869 a visiting party from Jacksonville renamed it Crater Lake, which now seems obviously the logical title.
It was not until 1902 that Crater Lake102 National Park was created by an Act of Congress. This comprises in all two hundred and forty-nine square miles which include many beautiful and interesting natural phenomena159 besides the lake itself. Several of these one may see when entering and leaving the park and others may be reached by special trips from the Lodge. Many of the mountain peaks in the vicinity may be scaled on muleback over safe and fairly easy trails. union Peak, about eight miles south of Crater Lake, is one of the favorite trail trips. This is peculiar160 in that it is not a cinder cone like most of its neighbors, but the solid core of an extinct volcano—a very steep, conical mountain 7689 feet high. Scott Peak, three miles east of the lake, is the highest point in the vicinity, 8938 feet, and overlooks Cloud Cap, which the new government road ascends161. Mount Thielsen, 9250 feet, the spire-like peak twelve miles to the north, may also be reached by a trail, passing beautiful Diamond Lake, a favorite spot for campers.
CRATER LAKE—WIZARD ISLAND IN DISTANCE
From photo by Kiser’s Studio, Portland, Oregon
The greater number of visitors come to the park by the automobile162 stages, which run regularly on alternate days during the season from Medford, on the main line of the Southern Pacific in Oregon, and from Klamath Falls over the route covered by ourselves. The former route, known as the Rogue163 River road, follows the river103 of that name through a wonderfully picturesque mountain country. Out of Medford for a good many miles the route passes through a prosperous fruit-farming country, where the famous Rogue River apples are produced. The highway climbs gradually out of the valley into the foothills and as it leads up the gorge of the river, the scenery constantly takes on a wilder aspect, culminating in the virgin164 wilderness165 where thunder the Great Falls of the Rogue. The Indians of this section had a strange custom with reference to these falls, for it was agreed that no brave of the Klamath, Shasta, or Rogue River tribes should ever approach within sound of the roaring waters. A little farther up the river is a natural lava bridge one hundred feet in length. At Prospect166, the only station on the road, luncheon167 is served and then the ascent to the crest of the Cascade168 is begun. The road is edged with giant evergreens169, for here is one of the greatest yellow pine forests in the world, though other varieties of conifers are also common. Steadily170, the road climbs upward, winding along the steep slopes of the Cascades171 and affording wide views in every direction over densely172 wooded highlands. About twenty miles from the lake the road leaves the river and turns into Castle Creek Canyon. Crossing the western boundary of the park, the ascent becomes steeper and steeper104 until the summit is attained174, from which, like a great blue jewel in a sunken setting, the tourist gets his first vision of Crater Lake. The road is usually very rough and dusty, especially late in the season; plans are now under way for its improvement, though the early accomplishment175 of the work can hardly be hoped for.
The Klamath Falls road, which was the route pursued by ourselves, averages better and is fully20 as picturesque. The usual plan is to come by the Medford road and leave by Klamath Falls, where the tourist may take the Shasta branch of the Southern Pacific for Weed on the main line. The stages do not run beyond Klamath Falls.
A third route known as the Dead Indian Road leaves the Pacific Highway at Ashland and joins the Klamath Falls route at Fort Klamath. The altitudes traversed by this road average lower than the others, generally less than five thousand feet. It passes within a few miles of Mount McLoughlin, the highest peak of the entire region, and skirts Pelican Bay at the extreme northern end of the main body of Klamath Lake. Here E. H. Harriman, the late railroad magnate, built a summer home which has now become a station on the road known as Harriman Lodge. It is a singularly wild and beautiful section and Pelican Bay is the most famous fishing “ground”105 in Oregon. Only a few tourists, however, come by this route, as the condition of the road is usually poor and the distance is greater than either of the alternate routes. In describing the routes by which the lake may be reached, I am writing only from the motorist’s point of view. Those who prefer to come by train will probably find it cheaper and more expeditious176 to go to Fort Klamath and take the stage to Crater Lake Lodge.
While I was ascertaining177 the data which I have just been transcribing178, the guests had gradually retired179 to their rooms and we soon followed suit. Despite the very crisp air—there is no heat in the guest rooms of Crater Lake Lodge—we threw open our windows and contemplated180 the weird beauty of the lake by the light of a full moon. Color had given way to dull, mysterious monotone—the lake had become an ebon mirror reflecting the moon and stars in its sullen181 deeps. And such starlight I never saw elsewhere. The stars flamed and corruscated like diamonds and the lake reflected them in almost undiminished luster182, lending a weird splendor to the scene. We were back at our posts at the windows to watch sunrise on the lake, but it was distinctly disappointing. We saw only a sheet of dull silver which gradually changed to blue as the sun rose over the rim.106 Possibly at other seasons, under different conditions, sunrise on Crater Lake may be a spectacle worth shivering in the frosty air to witness, but we agreed that the scene is far more inspiring when viewed by starlight.
There was a great spitting and sputtering183 of motors out under the pines as we descended the stairs, for the very crisp weather made starting no easy task, and when we left the Lodge an hour later, one or two of the refractory184 engines were still resisting every effort to set them going. Taking on a supply of forty-five-cent gasoline and pausing for one last look at the blue wonder-water before us, we glided185 down the little vale into the pines. We followed the road by which we came for a short distance until we reached the Sand Creek “cut off” which enabled us to regain186 the main road to Bend without returning to Fort Klamath. It also gave us the opportunity to ascend11 the new government road to the summit of Cloud Cap, an experience that we prize more than any other at Crater Lake. The road is part of the new highway which is ultimately to complete the circuit of the lake, a distance in all of thirty-eight miles. This road is about half finished at the present time, extending from the summit of Cloud Cap on the east to the peak of the Watchman on the west. It is being built with moderate grades and wide107 turns, broad enough everywhere for easy passing. It does not closely follow the lake at all points—that would be hardly possible and certainly not desirable. One of the delightful features of the road is the disappearance187 of the lake when one turns into the hills and its reappearance in new and often surprising aspects as various vantage points overlooking it are reached. It strikes the senses differently and more forcefully after the change afforded by a few minutes in the wooded hills. The distance from the Lodge to Sand Creek Canyon is about seven miles; here the road branches off to Kerr Notch on the rim, four or five miles farther, at which point the ascent of Cloud Cap begins. A splendid new road—it almost deserves the much-abused term “boulevard”—climbs to the summit in long, sweeping188 grades ranging from five to twelve per cent, yet so smooth and splendidly engineered as to require only high-gear work for a moderately powered car.
I have already described our impressions of the marvels189 of Crater Lake to the best of my ability and I can only say that the series of vistas presented in our ascent of Cloud Cap were far beyond any we had yet witnessed. In sheer magnificence, in inspiring beauty and in overwhelming mystery—never absent in any view of Crater Lake—I have seen little else that could compare108 with the seven-mile run. At times we caught only glimpses of the blue water and mighty cliffs through a group of trees; then we came out upon some bold headland where the lake lay shimmering beneath our gaze with an endless panorama of cliffs and peaks beyond. But the crowning spectacle greeted us from the summit, where from an elevation190 of two thousand feet above the surface our vision covered almost the entire lake and the greater part of its rugged shore line with an almost unlimited191 sweep over the surrounding country. Here a new and strange color aspect entranced us—the main body of the water took on a deep purple hue192, fading into violet and blue with faint streakings of emerald green near the shores. Light lavender was the prevailing193 color tone of the encircling cliffs in the floods of morning sunlight, while dark blues194 prevailed where the shadows fell. Out beyond stretched the densely wooded hills with here and there a commanding peak on which snow flecks195 still lingered. Looking down the slope which we had ascended, we saw Lake Klamath in the far distance, shining silver-bright in its setting of forest and marsh and beyond it endless hills which were gradually lost in a purple haze.
LLAO ROCK, CRATER LAKE
Copyright by Fred H. Kiser, Portland, Oregon
It was a panorama that held us for some time, despite the fact that our run for the day was to be a long one, over roads for which109 no one had spoken a good word. Reluctantly and lingeringly we gave the word to depart. I find in my “log book” set down on the spot: “One of the most glorious and inspiring drives in all our experience and all that its most enthusiastic admirer has ever claimed for it”—a judgment196 we are still willing to let stand. Soberly the big car retraced its way down the long slopes and we soon bade farewell to Crater Lake, wondering hopefully if we should not some time have the joy of seeing its weird beauty again. A few miles through dense173 forests brought us to the eastern limit of the park, where we surrendered our permit to Uncle Sam’s representative and struck the dusty trail to Bend, our destination for the night—about one hundred and twenty miles distant from the confines of the park.
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anticipation
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| n.预期，预料，期望 | |
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crater
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| n.火山口，弹坑 | |
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climax
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| n.顶点；高潮；v.(使)达到顶点 | |
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stony
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| adj.石头的，多石头的，冷酷的，无情的 | |
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lumber
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| n.木材，木料；v.以破旧东西堆满；伐木；笨重移动 | |
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moored
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| adj. 系泊的 动词moor的过去式和过去分词形式 | |
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tugs
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| n.猛拉( tug的名词复数 )；猛拖；拖船v.用力拉，使劲拉，猛扯( tug的第三人称单数 ) | |
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outlet
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| n.出口/路；销路；批发商店；通风口；发泄 | |
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lumbering
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| n.采伐林木 | |
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ascended
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| v.上升，攀登( ascend的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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ascend
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| vi.渐渐上升，升高；vt.攀登，登上 | |
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picturesque
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| adj.美丽如画的，（语言）生动的，绘声绘色的 | |
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rim
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| n.(圆物的)边，轮缘；边界 | |
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crests
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| v.到达山顶（或浪峰）( crest的第三人称单数 )；到达洪峰，达到顶点 | |
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crest
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| n.顶点；饰章；羽冠；vt.达到顶点；vi.形成浪尖 | |
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panorama
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| n.全景，全景画，全景摄影，全景照片[装置] | |
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haze
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| n.霾，烟雾；懵懂，迷糊；vi.(over)变模糊 | |
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marsh
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| n.沼泽，湿地 | |
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cove
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| n.小海湾，小峡谷 | |
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fully
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| adv.完全地，全部地，彻底地；充分地 | |
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pelican
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| n.鹈鹕，伽蓝鸟 | |
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ruffled
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| adj. 有褶饰边的, 起皱的 动词ruffle的过去式和过去分词 | |
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onward
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| adj.向前的，前进的；adv.向前，前进，在先 | |
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winding
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| n.绕，缠，绕组，线圈 | |
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outfitting
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| v.装备，配置设备，供给服装( outfit的现在分词 ) | |
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indirectly
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| adv.间接地，不直接了当地 | |
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ascent
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| n.(声望或地位)提高；上升，升高；登高 | |
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lodge
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| v.临时住宿，寄宿，寄存，容纳；n.传达室，小旅馆 | |
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canyon
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| n.峡谷，溪谷 | |
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creek
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| n.小溪，小河，小湾 | |
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gorge
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| n.咽喉，胃，暴食，山峡；v.塞饱，狼吞虎咽地吃 | |
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diminutive
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| adj.小巧可爱的，小的 | |
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chasm
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| n.深坑，断层，裂口，大分岐，利害冲突 | |
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pinnacles
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| 顶峰( pinnacle的名词复数 )； 顶点； 尖顶； 小尖塔 | |
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weirdly
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| 古怪地 | |
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weird
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| adj.古怪的，离奇的；怪诞的，神秘而可怕的 | |
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igneous
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| adj.火的，火绒的 | |
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gravel
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| n.砂跞；砂砾层；结石 | |
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cedar
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| n.雪松，香柏(木) | |
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hemlock
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| n.毒胡萝卜，铁杉 | |
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deciduous
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| adj.非永久的；短暂的；脱落的；落叶的 | |
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specimens
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| n.样品( specimen的名词复数 )；范例；（化验的）抽样；某种类型的人 | |
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transacted
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| v.办理（业务等）( transact的过去式和过去分词 )；交易，谈判 | |
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besieged
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| 包围，围困，围攻( besiege的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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chipmunks
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| n.金花鼠( chipmunk的名词复数 ) | |
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auto
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| n.(=automobile)(口语)汽车 | |
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47
scraps
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| 油渣 | |
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rugged
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| adj.高低不平的，粗糙的，粗壮的，强健的 | |
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momentary
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| adj.片刻的，瞬息的；短暂的 | |
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50
somber
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| adj.昏暗的，阴天的，阴森的，忧郁的 | |
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51
rustic
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| adj.乡村的，有乡村特色的；n.乡下人，乡巴佬 | |
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52
piecemeal
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| adj.零碎的；n.片，块；adv.逐渐地；v.弄成碎块 | |
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53
eminence
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| n.卓越，显赫；高地，高处；名家 | |
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54
variegated
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| adj.斑驳的，杂色的 | |
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majestic
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| adj.雄伟的，壮丽的，庄严的，威严的，崇高的 | |
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overcast
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| adj.阴天的，阴暗的，愁闷的；v.遮盖，（使）变暗，包边缝；n.覆盖，阴天 | |
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57
beheld
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| v.看，注视( behold的过去式和过去分词 )；瞧；看呀；（叙述中用于引出某人意外的出现）哎哟 | |
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58
splendor
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| n.光彩；壮丽，华丽；显赫，辉煌 | |
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admiration
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| n.钦佩，赞美，羡慕 | |
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softened
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| （使）变软( soften的过去式和过去分词 )； 缓解打击； 缓和； 安慰 | |
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cinder
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| n.余烬，矿渣 | |
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cone
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| n.圆锥体，圆锥形东西，球果 | |
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truncated
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| adj.切去顶端的，缩短了的，被删节的v.截面的( truncate的过去式和过去分词 )；截头的；缩短了的；截去顶端或末端 | |
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abrupt
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| adj.突然的，意外的；唐突的，鲁莽的 | |
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ripple
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| n.涟波，涟漪，波纹，粗钢梳；vt.使...起涟漪，使起波纹； vi.呈波浪状，起伏前进 | |
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perpendicular
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| adj.垂直的，直立的；n.垂直线，垂直的位置 | |
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coves
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| n.小海湾( cove的名词复数 )；家伙 | |
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descended
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| a.为...后裔的，出身于...的 | |
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69
descend
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| vt./vi.传下来，下来，下降 | |
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mighty
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| adj.强有力的；巨大的 | |
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shimmering
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| v.闪闪发光，发微光( shimmer的现在分词 ) | |
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delightful
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| adj.令人高兴的，使人快乐的 | |
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devious
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| adj.不坦率的，狡猾的；迂回的，曲折的 | |
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trek
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| vi.作长途艰辛的旅行；n.长途艰苦的旅行 | |
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strenuous
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| adj.奋发的，使劲的；紧张的；热烈的，狂热的 | |
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detours
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| 绕行的路( detour的名词复数 )； 绕道，兜圈子 | |
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scramble
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| v.爬行，攀爬，杂乱蔓延，碎片，片段，废料 | |
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trout
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| n.鳟鱼；鲑鱼(属) | |
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tint
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| n.淡色，浅色；染发剂；vt.着以淡淡的颜色 | |
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placid
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| adj.安静的，平和的 | |
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ripples
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| 逐渐扩散的感觉( ripple的名词复数 ) | |
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loomed
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| v.隐约出现，阴森地逼近( loom的过去式和过去分词 )；隐约出现，阴森地逼近 | |
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azure
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| adj.天蓝色的，蔚蓝色的 | |
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phantom
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| n.幻影，虚位，幽灵；adj.错觉的，幻影的，幽灵的 | |
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spires
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| n.（教堂的） 塔尖，尖顶( spire的名词复数 ) | |
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vertical
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| adj.垂直的，顶点的，纵向的；n.垂直物，垂直的位置 | |
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adventurous
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| adj.爱冒险的；惊心动魄的，惊险的，刺激的 | |
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feat
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| n.功绩；武艺，技艺；adj.灵巧的，漂亮的，合适的 | |
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tempt
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| vt.引诱，勾引，吸引，引起…的兴趣 | |
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notch
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| n.(V字形)槽口，缺口，等级 | |
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goblet
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| n.高脚酒杯 | |
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grotto
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| n.洞穴 | |
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precipice
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| n.悬崖，危急的处境 | |
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geologists
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| 地质学家，地质学者( geologist的名词复数 ) | |
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lava
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| n.熔岩，火山岩 | |
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volcanic
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| adj.火山的；象火山的；由火山引起的 | |
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superstitious
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| adj.迷信的 | |
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demon
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| n.魔鬼，恶魔 | |
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marshes
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| n.沼泽，湿地( marsh的名词复数 ) | |
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guardian
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| n.监护人；守卫者，保护者 | |
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feats
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| 功绩，伟业，技艺( feat的名词复数 ) | |
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enchantment
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| n.迷惑，妖术，魅力 | |
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reeking
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| v.发出浓烈的臭气( reek的现在分词 )；散发臭气；发出难闻的气味 (of sth)；明显带有（令人不快或生疑的跡象） | |
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followers
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| 追随者( follower的名词复数 )； 用户； 契据的附面； 从动件 | |
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savage
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| adj.野蛮的；凶恶的，残暴的；n.未开化的人 | |
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hurling
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| n.爱尔兰式曲棍球v.猛投，用力掷( hurl的现在分词 )；大声叫骂 | |
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antelopes
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| 羚羊( antelope的名词复数 )； 羚羊皮革 | |
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ridges
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| n.脊( ridge的名词复数 )；山脊；脊状突起；大气层的)高压脊 | |
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vengeance
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| n.报复，报仇，复仇 | |
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victorious
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| adj.胜利的，得胜的 | |
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miraculous
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| adj.像奇迹一样的，不可思议的 | |
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shreds
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| v.撕碎，切碎( shred的第三人称单数 )；用撕毁机撕毁（文件） | |
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113
gluttonous
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| adj.贪吃的，贪婪的 | |
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demolished
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| v.摧毁( demolish的过去式和过去分词 )；推翻；拆毁（尤指大建筑物）；吃光 | |
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joyously
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| ad.快乐地, 高兴地 | |
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remains
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| n.剩余物，残留物；遗体，遗迹 | |
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devoured
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| 吞没( devour的过去式和过去分词 )； 耗尽； 津津有味地看； 狼吞虎咽地吃光 | |
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118
offense
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| n.犯规，违法行为；冒犯，得罪 | |
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forth
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| adv.向前；向外，往外 | |
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sparse
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| adj.稀疏的，稀稀落落的，薄的 | |
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stunted
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| adj.矮小的；发育迟缓的 | |
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tarn
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| n.山中的小湖或小潭 | |
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123
glacier
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| n.冰川，冰河 | |
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monotonous
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| adj.单调的，一成不变的，使人厌倦的 | |
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125
hovers
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| 鸟( hover的第三人称单数 )； 靠近（某事物）； （人）徘徊； 犹豫 | |
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126
vistas
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| 长条形景色( vista的名词复数 )； 回顾； 展望； （未来可能发生的）一系列情景 | |
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127
retraced
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| v.折回( retrace的过去式和过去分词 )；回忆；回顾；追溯 | |
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128
twilight
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| n.暮光，黄昏；暮年，晚期，衰落时期 | |
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129
shudder
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| v.战粟，震动，剧烈地摇晃；n.战粟，抖动 | |
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130
speculations
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| n.投机买卖( speculation的名词复数 )；思考；投机活动；推断 | |
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131
demons
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| n.恶人( demon的名词复数 )；恶魔；精力过人的人；邪念 | |
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132
piscatorial
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| adj.鱼的；渔业的 | |
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133
crustacean
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| n.甲壳动物；adj.甲壳纲的 | |
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134
quarry
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| n.采石场；v.采石；费力地找 | |
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135
illustrated
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| adj. 有插图的，列举的 动词illustrate的过去式和过去分词 | |
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136
baker
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| n.面包师 | |
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137
hood
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| n.头巾，兜帽，覆盖；v.罩上，以头巾覆盖 | |
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138
mightier
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| adj. 强有力的，强大的，巨大的 adv. 很，极其 | |
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alpine
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| adj.高山的；n.高山植物 | |
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140
investigations
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| （正式的）调查( investigation的名词复数 )； 侦查； 科学研究； 学术研究 | |
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141
majesty
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| n.雄伟，壮丽，庄严，威严；最高权威，王权 | |
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142
lesser
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| adj.次要的，较小的；adv.较小地，较少地 | |
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143
conjecture
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| n./v.推测，猜测 | |
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144
collapsed
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| adj.倒塌的 | |
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145
lavas
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| n.（火山喷发的）熔岩( lava的名词复数 )；（熔岩冷凝后的）火山岩 | |
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debris
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| n.瓦砾堆，废墟，碎片 | |
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scattered
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| adj.分散的，稀疏的；散步的；疏疏落落的 | |
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fiery
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| adj.燃烧着的，火红的；暴躁的；激烈的 | |
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149
evaporation
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| n.蒸发，消失 | |
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150
subterranean
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| adj.地下的，地表下的 | |
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151
geologic
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| adj.地质的 | |
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152
inferno
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| n.火海；地狱般的场所 | |
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153
utterly
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| adv.完全地，绝对地 | |
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154
lurks
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| n.潜在，潜伏；（lurk的复数形式）vi.潜伏，埋伏（lurk的第三人称单数形式） | |
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155
astounding
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| adj.使人震惊的vt.使震惊，使大吃一惊astound的现在分词) | |
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mythical
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| adj.神话的；虚构的；想像的 | |
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157
mule
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| n.骡子，杂种，执拗的人 | |
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158
decided
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| adj.决定了的，坚决的；明显的，明确的 | |
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159
phenomena
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| n.现象 | |
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peculiar
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| adj.古怪的，异常的；特殊的，特有的 | |
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ascends
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| v.上升，攀登( ascend的第三人称单数 ) | |
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162
automobile
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| n.汽车，机动车 | |
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163
rogue
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| n.流氓；v.游手好闲 | |
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virgin
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| n.处女，未婚女子；adj.未经使用的；未经开发的 | |
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wilderness
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| n.杳无人烟的一片陆地、水等，荒漠 | |
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prospect
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| n.前景，前途；景色，视野 | |
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luncheon
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| n.午宴，午餐，便宴 | |
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168
cascade
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| n.小瀑布，喷流；层叠；vi.成瀑布落下 | |
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169
evergreens
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| n.常青树，常绿植物，万年青( evergreen的名词复数 ) | |
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170
steadily
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| adv.稳定地；不变地；持续地 | |
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171
cascades
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| 倾泻( cascade的名词复数 )； 小瀑布（尤指一连串瀑布中的一支）； 瀑布状物； 倾泻（或涌出）的东西 | |
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172
densely
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| ad.密集地；浓厚地 | |
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173
dense
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| a.密集的，稠密的，浓密的；密度大的 | |
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174
attained
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| （通常经过努力）实现( attain的过去式和过去分词 )； 达到； 获得； 达到（某年龄、水平、状况） | |
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175
accomplishment
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| n.完成，成就，（pl.）造诣，技能 | |
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176
expeditious
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| adj.迅速的，敏捷的 | |
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177
ascertaining
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| v.弄清，确定，查明( ascertain的现在分词 ) | |
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178
transcribing
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| （用不同的录音手段）转录( transcribe的现在分词 )； 改编（乐曲）（以适应他种乐器或声部）； 抄写； 用音标标出（声音） | |
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179
retired
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| adj.隐退的，退休的，退役的 | |
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180
contemplated
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| adj. 预期的 动词contemplate的过去分词形式 | |
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181
sullen
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| adj.愠怒的，闷闷不乐的，(天气等)阴沉的 | |
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182
luster
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| n.光辉；光泽，光亮；荣誉 | |
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183
sputtering
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| n.反应溅射法；飞溅；阴极真空喷镀；喷射v.唾沫飞溅( sputter的现在分词 )；发劈啪声；喷出；飞溅出 | |
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184
refractory
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| adj.倔强的，难驾驭的 | |
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185
glided
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| v.滑动( glide的过去式和过去分词 )；掠过；（鸟或飞机 ） 滑翔 | |
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186
regain
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| vt.重新获得，收复，恢复 | |
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187
disappearance
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| n.消失，消散，失踪 | |
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188
sweeping
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| adj.范围广大的，一扫无遗的 | |
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189
marvels
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| n.奇迹( marvel的名词复数 )；令人惊奇的事物（或事例）；不平凡的成果；成就v.惊奇，对…感到惊奇( marvel的第三人称单数 ) | |
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190
elevation
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| n.高度；海拔；高地；上升；提高 | |
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191
unlimited
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| adj.无限的，不受控制的，无条件的 | |
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192
hue
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| n.色度；色调；样子 | |
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193
prevailing
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| adj.盛行的；占优势的；主要的 | |
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194
blues
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| n.抑郁，沮丧；布鲁斯音乐 | |
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195
flecks
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| n.斑点，小点( fleck的名词复数 )；癍 | |
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196
judgment
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| n.审判；判断力，识别力，看法，意见 | |
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