[75]
The history of these early races rests mostly upon tradition; yet a diversity of architectural ruins, and the few meagre records that remain, present certain general facts. These positive proofs leave no doubt that this valley was inhabited from a very early period by tribes or nations which made distinct advances in civilization. These tribes had developed certain of the useful arts and had evolved a social system that exhibited some refinement7. The first of these races of whom we have reliable record are the Toltecs, who appeared in the Valley of Mexico in the seventh century at almost the same time that Mohammed was spreading his religion over Asia and Africa. Their sway lasted about five centuries, when they disappeared as silently and mysteriously as they came.
These peaceful and agricultural people were succeeded by the Chichimecs, a more barbarous race, who came from the north. They in turn were followed by the Nahuals. Lastly came the Aztecs, who entered the valley about 1196, and reached a higher state of civilization than any of their predecessors8. War was their choicest profession, for they considered that warriors10 slain11 in battle were immediately transported to scenes of ineffable12 bliss13. They offered human[76] sacrifices to their gods. Prescott tells us of a procession of captives two miles long, and numbering seventy thousand persons who were sacrificed at one time. This is incredible, for at that rate the population would soon have been exhausted14 even in this prolific15 land. Furthermore we know that the Aztecs were not always successful in war, and may have furnished victims from their own numbers, for sacrifice to the gods of the other nations in the same land.
THE CALENDAR STONE
The Aztecs were clever workers in gold and silver, and were acquainted with a number of arts that are lost to-day. Their picture writings bear witness to a clever fancy and fertile invention of symbols. The numerous idols17 show their skill in carving18 and a true artistic19 instinct. Many antiquities20 have been exhumed21 from the swampy22 soil on which the capital city is built, in making excavations23 for improvements. The National Museum is a treasure house of these relics24 and it would take a volume to describe them. The huge Sacrificial Stone, which is generally supposed to have been placed on the top of the great altar, is preserved there. It also houses the horrible image of the god Huitzilopochtli, and a varied26 assortment27 of inferior gods, goddesses, and other objects of[77] worship. But the most celebrated28 antiquity—the one showing the greatest advancement—is the Calendar Stone. This stone was buried for centuries, and when resurrected was placed in the west tower of the cathedral. From this place it was removed a few years ago and placed in the museum. It is a mighty29 stone, eleven feet and eight inches in diameter, and weighs more than twenty tons. The Aztecs divided the year into eighteen months of twenty days each, and then arbitrarily added five days to complete the year.
“Let us follow the cross, and if we have faith we will conquer,” was the motto on the banner of Cortez. It was with this spirit that he led his little band over the mountains and into the heart of the empire of Montezuma, late in the fall of 1519. He was met by that sovereign, tradition says, on the site of the present Hospital of Jesus, with every manifestation30 of friendliness31. For several months they were the honoured guests of the Aztec chief, but at length the aggressions of the Spaniards changed friendship to hate and the Aztecs, rising in their wrath32, chased the invaders33 from the city. Driven before the infuriated natives like sheep, they fled over the present road to the suburban34 village of Tacuba, and many were[78] those who fell. This rout35 of the Spaniards has been painted with wonderful vividness by Gen. Lew Wallace in “The Fair God.”
It was an awful night of despair, that first day of July, 1520, and the Spaniards who escaped named it La Noche Triste, “the sorrowful night.” The pursuit stopped at the little town of Popotla. In this village is a great cypress36 tree whose branches are blasted by the storms of centuries. For a moment the strong will of Cortez gave way and he sat down upon a stone under the spreading branches of this tree and wept. Whether he wept most for his fallen soldiers or disappointment over his ignominious37 defeat, we are not told by the chroniclers. This tree is now noted39 as el arbol de la noche triste, or “the tree of the sorrowful night.” A high iron fence protects the ancient relic25 from the souvenir vandals.
The Spaniards retreated beyond the valley to their allies, the Tlaxcalans, at Cholula. Reinforcements and supplies arriving, they returned a few months later and began the memorable40 siege of Tenochtitlan, and made a triumphal entry into that city on the 13th of August, 1521. Then Guatemotzin, the last of the Aztec emperors, wept in his turn, because the sacred fires of the temple had for ever gone[79] out, and his people would henceforth be slaves. “Take that dagger,” he said, “and free this spirit.” But, no, torture must come before death, for Cortez fain would learn where the gold was hidden that had so suddenly disappeared. To-day, in the City of Mexico, a statue stands in one of the circles of the famous Paseo, which commemorates42 this great warrior9 and his torture by the Spanish chieftain. This monument is greatly cherished by the Indians, who hold annual festivals in his honour and decorate it with a profusion43 of flowers and wreaths.
The great Valley of Mexico is without a natural outlet44, and this fact has caused seven inundations of the capital during exceptionally rainy seasons. One of the lakes, Zumpango, is twenty-five feet higher than the city and drains into Texcoco, from which the waters spread over the city. When the first serious inundations came in 1553, 1580 and 1604, the project of removing the city to a higher level was strongly agitated45. It was only the loss of millions of dollars of property that prevented this action. Then the idea of draining this valley was definitely adopted and the work was begun in 1607. A tunnel was decided46 upon and fifteen thousand Indians were set at work[80] sinking shafts47 and driving the tunnel in both directions. Within a year a tunnel four miles long had been completed. This tunnel eventually caved in, so that very little good was realized from it and efforts were made to convert it into an open cut. But this undertaking48 was not finished until two centuries later. It is a great trench49, however, with an average depth of from one hundred and fifty to two hundred feet, and from three hundred to seven hundred feet in width at the top. It is called the Tajo de Nochistongo, or Nochistongo cut, and its only use now is as an entrance for the Mexican Central railway. Even this waterway did not drain the valley, remarkable50 engineering feat38 as it was, but a new canal was constructed by American engineers a few years ago which successfully accomplishes the work of draining these shallow lakes and carrying off the sewerage of the city.
The first Aztecs who settled in this valley lived almost entirely in the marshes51 and lakes, we are told, because of the hostility53 of their fierce neighbours. They were thus obliged to depend almost wholly upon the products of these watered lands for their sustenance54, and they acquired some strange and—we would say—depraved tastes. A reminder55 of those[81] days is seen in the cakes made of the eggs of a curious marsh52-fly, which are sold in the market of the City of Mexico to-day. The flies themselves are pounded into a paste and sold after being boiled, but the eggs are preferred. The Indians collect the eggs in a systematic56 manner. Bundles of a certain kind of sedge are planted in Lake Texcoco and the insects deposit their eggs thereon in great quantities. These bundles as soon as covered are shaken over pieces of cloth and replaced for another supply. The eggs thus collected are made into a paste and form a favourite article of food, especially during Lent.
It is interesting to learn what different races regard as toothsome dainties. In Southern Mexico I have seen bushels of common grasshoppers57 sold in the markets as a delicacy58, reminding one of the locusts59 and wild honey used as food in Biblical times. In other parts of Mexico the honey-ant is greatly sought after for food. The natives of Central America are partial to the iguana60, a large lizard61 sometimes reaching a length of three or four feet, and prefer it to beef. After all there is no accounting62 for tastes. A man who eats snails63 might criticize another who relishes64 oysters65. And perhaps the man who want his cheese “ripe”[82] should not criticize the poor Indian who has inherited a taste for the eggs of the fly.
SCENES ON THE VIGA CANAL
There are many places of interest round about the City of Mexico which are easily reached. One should not fail to visit the famous jardines flotandos or “floating gardens” where the beautiful flowers sold in the market are grown. These gardens, called by the Aztecs chinampas, are reached by the Viga Canal. The inquirer is told to take a gondola66 and float down to them. The name gondola excites pleasant anticipations67 of a delightful68 trip. Entering a mule-car at the Plaza69 Mayor the canal is soon reached after traversing a number of narrow streets which would not especially delight the fastidious traveller. The gondoliers take the stranger almost by force and urge him into one of the flea-infested boats that abound70 at the landing, and which more resemble a collection of mud-scows than any other kind of floating fleet. Instead of using oars71 these queer gondoliers with the picture hats pole the boat through the muddy waters of La Viga, stirring up odours which cause the passenger to wish that he was not gifted with the sense of smell, or that he could temporarily dispense72 with breathing. However, there is life in the stream and on the banks that is typically Mexican, for[83] boats are constantly passing up and down. Occasionally a load of Indians will float by playing native airs on guitars and other string instruments, with the light-heartedness and gaiety peculiar73 to this race. On the bank are scattered74 many native thatch75 huts around which idle natives group. Along the road pass men and women going to and from the city with loads on their heads or on their backs. The “floating gardens” are always just beyond. They are first at Santa Anita but, when this place is reached, they are at Mexicalcingo. Arrived there the visitor is sent to Ixtacalco, and then he is forwarded to Xochimilco, and so the real floating gardens are never reached. The fact is that they do not float and perhaps never did. This characteristic only exists in the imagination, for it sounds romantic to speak of gardens that can be moved around and anchored at will.
Disembarking at an unattractive mud and thatch village bearing the charming name of Santa Anita, self constituted guides are waiting to conduct you to the object of your visit, something which does not literally76 exist. Yet the “floating gardens” are all about you at this place. They are simply marsh lands with canals leading in and out and crossways by means[84] of which the gardener can reach all parts in his boat. The earth may yield somewhat if you step upon it, but they do not float. It is possible, and historians so assert, that floating gardens did exist in reality during the Aztec invasion. These people were frequently driven to dire4 extremities77 to secure food. They may have adopted the plan of making floating gardens which could be moved about as necessity compelled. This was done by culling78 masses of vegetation with its thick entwined stems and pouring upon this mat the rich mud dredged from the bottom of the lake. Then, as the masses settled, more mud was put on until the whole anchored upon the bottom of the lake and became immovable. The gardens look beautiful, covered as they are with the many-coloured blossoms. By means of the canals the roots are kept thoroughly79 moist at all times, and the plants thrive luxuriantly.
This canal of La Viga was formerly80 a great trade route, for a large part of the natives came to the City of Mexico by this way. It leads back into regions where dwell full blooded Aztecs who speak a language that is said to be almost the pure ancient tongue. These natives can be distinguished81 from all others on the street and in the market by their features and[85] peculiar dress. They are clannish82 and keep by themselves, except in the intercourse83 made necessary by barter84 and trade. They are proud of their lineage and rejoice in the fact that they have not mingled85 with the other native races.
Tacuba, distant only a few miles, is an interesting little village, and has many gardens and a fine old church. It is a good place to study the people and get snap-shots of quaint16 life. Its principal distinction is that it was a proud city when Tetlepanquetzaltzin was king once upon a time. Texcoco at the time of the conquest was the capital of the Tezcucans, who were a race in alliance with the Aztecs, but it is now principally in ruins, for its glory has passed away. El Desierto was once the home of the Carmelite monks86 and is frequently visited now in its decay. Coyoacan was the first capital of Mexico, for Cortez established the seat of government there for a time while the new city was being built.
Tacubaya is the home of the wealthy as well as the sporting element. It has beautiful gardens within the adobe87 walls surrounding the homes of the opulent. It is on higher ground and should have been the site of the capital city itself. It is also called the Monte Carlo of Mexico, for gamblers of all sorts and conditions[86] congregate88 here in booths or under umbrellas, and you can lose any sum at games of chance as at that famous resort along the shores of the blue Mediterranean89. Games, music, dancing, cock-fights, and bull-fights are a few of the attractions to amuse and entertain the visitor, and relieve him from the burden of carrying around the weighty silver pesos.
CASTLE OF CHAPULTEPEC
In all this beautiful and historic Valley of Mexico there is no more beautiful spot, or none around which so many memories cling, as Chapultepec, the Hill of the Grasshoppers. Historic and beautiful Chapultepec! A great grove90 of noble cypresses91 draped with masses of Spanish moss92 surrounds this rock, and between the trees and along the shores of a pretty little lake wind enchanting93 walks. One grand old cypress called Montezuma’s tree rises to a height of one hundred and seventy feet. It is a magnificent breathing spot—with which no park that I have ever seen in America compares. Legend says that on the top of this rock was situated94 the palace of Montezuma, and it is probably only legend. No doubt that emperor often rested himself under the friendly shade of the great ahuehuete, and reflected on the glory of his empire before the disturbing foreigners came. The present Castle of Chapultepec dates[87] from 1783 when it was begun by one of the viceroys. Later viceroys, presidents and an emperor added to the original building until now it is a palace indeed but not a beautiful structure. Ill-fated Maximilian made this his home and added greatly to the beauty of the grounds. It is now the White House of Mexico although occupied only a part of the year by the president.
Perhaps nowhere in the world does there exist a more beautiful scene than that which unfolds to the view from this rock. All around is the great sweep of plain with its wealth of cultivated fields; the distant mountain range with its ever varying outline; the snow-capped twin peaks, Popocatapetl (seventeen thousand, seven hundred and eighty-two feet) and Ixtaccihuatl (sixteen thousand and sixty feet), standing95 like silent sentinels and dominating the horizon; the silver line of the lakes; and beneath us the fair City of Mexico, the ancient Tenochtitlan. Legend says that Popocatepetl, “the smoking mountain,” and Ixtaccihuatl, “the woman in white,” were once living giants but that having displeased96 the Almighty97 they were changed to mountains. The woman died and the contour of her body covered with snow can be traced on the summit of the smaller[88] peak. The man was doomed98 to live for ever and gaze on the sleeping form of his beloved. At times when his grief becomes uncontrollable he shakes with his great sobs99 and pours forth41 tears of fire.
As I stood on that historic rock I thought of the New World Venice described by Prescott, “with its shining cities and flowering islets rocking, as it were, at anchor on the fair bosom100 of the waters.” Rising above all was the great sacrificial altar upon which the sacred fires were ever kept burning. Beneath this rock under the friendly branches of the giant cypress Montezuma has no doubt sheltered himself from the hot sun. Cortez here rested himself after his severe marches. French zouaves in their quaint uniforms have bivouacked in the grove. American blue-coats stacked their arms here after the victory of Molino-del-Ray. And Mexicans now take their siestas101 under the same friendly shade while other races are robbing them of their wealth.
Yes, historic scenes and tragedies have taken place on this plain. Nations have come and gone. Victors have themselves been led away captives, and taskmasters have in turn become slaves. How finite is man or his works in the[89] presence of this great panorama102 of nature! Races have come and gone but the mountains endure. Human tragedies have been enacted103 here but the sky is just as blue and the sun just as bright, as when Cortez looked with envious104 eyes upon this beautiful valley. The mimic105 play of men, and women and races upon this amphitheatre has scarcely left its imprint106. The only occasions when the calm serenity107 of nature has been disturbed were when the giant Popocatapetl, overcome with grief at the loss of his beloved, has shaken this whole valley with his sobs and poured forth plenteous tears of fire over its fair surface.
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1
acting
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| n.演戏，行为，假装；adj.代理的，临时的，演出用的 | |
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vaudeville
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| n.歌舞杂耍表演 | |
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circumscribe
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| v.在...周围划线，限制，约束 | |
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dire
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| adj.可怕的，悲惨的，阴惨的，极端的 | |
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entirely
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| ad.全部地，完整地；完全地，彻底地 | |
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receded
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| v.逐渐远离( recede的过去式和过去分词 )；向后倾斜；自原处后退或避开别人的注视；尤指问题 | |
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refinement
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| n.文雅；高尚；精美；精制；精炼 | |
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predecessors
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| n.前任( predecessor的名词复数 )；前辈；（被取代的）原有事物；前身 | |
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warrior
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| n.勇士，武士，斗士 | |
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warriors
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| 武士，勇士，战士( warrior的名词复数 ) | |
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slain
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| 杀死，宰杀，杀戮( slay的过去分词 )； (slay的过去分词) | |
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ineffable
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| adj.无法表达的，不可言喻的 | |
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bliss
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| n.狂喜，福佑，天赐的福 | |
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exhausted
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| adj.极其疲惫的，精疲力尽的 | |
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prolific
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| adj.丰富的，大量的；多产的，富有创造力的 | |
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quaint
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| adj.古雅的，离奇有趣的，奇怪的 | |
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idols
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| 偶像( idol的名词复数 )； 受崇拜的人或物； 受到热爱和崇拜的人或物； 神像 | |
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carving
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| n.雕刻品，雕花 | |
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artistic
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| adj.艺术(家)的，美术(家)的；善于艺术创作的 | |
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antiquities
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| n.古老( antiquity的名词复数 )；古迹；古人们；古代的风俗习惯 | |
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exhumed
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| v.挖出，发掘出( exhume的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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swampy
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| adj.沼泽的，湿地的 | |
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excavations
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| n.挖掘( excavation的名词复数 )；开凿；开凿的洞穴（或山路等）；（发掘出来的）古迹 | |
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relics
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| [pl.］n.遗物，遗迹，遗产；遗体，尸骸 | |
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relic
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| n.神圣的遗物，遗迹，纪念物 | |
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varied
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| adj.多样的，多变化的 | |
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assortment
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| n.分类，各色俱备之物，聚集 | |
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celebrated
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| adj.有名的，声誉卓著的 | |
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mighty
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| adj.强有力的；巨大的 | |
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manifestation
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| n.表现形式；表明；现象 | |
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friendliness
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| n.友谊，亲切，亲密 | |
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wrath
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| n.愤怒，愤慨，暴怒 | |
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invaders
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| 入侵者，侵略者，侵入物( invader的名词复数 ) | |
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suburban
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| adj.城郊的，在郊区的 | |
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rout
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| n.溃退，溃败；v.击溃，打垮 | |
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cypress
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| n.柏树 | |
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ignominious
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| adj.可鄙的，不光彩的，耻辱的 | |
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feat
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| n.功绩；武艺，技艺；adj.灵巧的，漂亮的，合适的 | |
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noted
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| adj.著名的，知名的 | |
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memorable
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| adj.值得回忆的，难忘的，特别的，显著的 | |
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forth
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| adv.向前；向外，往外 | |
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42
commemorates
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| n.纪念，庆祝( commemorate的名词复数 )v.纪念，庆祝( commemorate的第三人称单数 ) | |
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profusion
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| n.挥霍；丰富 | |
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outlet
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| n.出口/路；销路；批发商店；通风口；发泄 | |
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45
agitated
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| adj.被鼓动的，不安的 | |
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decided
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| adj.决定了的，坚决的；明显的，明确的 | |
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47
shafts
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| n.轴( shaft的名词复数 )；（箭、高尔夫球棒等的）杆；通风井；一阵（疼痛、害怕等） | |
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48
undertaking
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| n.保证，许诺，事业 | |
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49
trench
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| n./v.(挖)沟，(挖)战壕 | |
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50
remarkable
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| adj.显著的，异常的，非凡的，值得注意的 | |
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51
marshes
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| n.沼泽，湿地( marsh的名词复数 ) | |
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52
marsh
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| n.沼泽，湿地 | |
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53
hostility
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| n.敌对，敌意；抵制［pl.］交战，战争 | |
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54
sustenance
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| n.食物，粮食；生活资料；生计 | |
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55
reminder
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| n.提醒物，纪念品；暗示，提示 | |
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56
systematic
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| adj.有系统的，有计划的，有方法的 | |
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57
grasshoppers
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| n.蚱蜢( grasshopper的名词复数 )；蝗虫；蚂蚱；（孩子）矮小的 | |
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delicacy
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| n.精致，细微，微妙，精良；美味，佳肴 | |
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locusts
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| n.蝗虫( locust的名词复数 )；贪吃的人；破坏者；槐树 | |
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60
iguana
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| n.美洲大蜥蜴，鬣鳞蜥 | |
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lizard
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| n.蜥蜴，壁虎 | |
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62
accounting
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| n.会计，会计学，借贷对照表 | |
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snails
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| n.蜗牛；迟钝的人；蜗牛( snail的名词复数 ) | |
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relishes
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| n.滋味( relish的名词复数 )；乐趣；（大量的）享受；快乐v.欣赏( relish的第三人称单数 )；从…获得乐趣；渴望 | |
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65
oysters
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| 牡蛎( oyster的名词复数 ) | |
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gondola
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| n.威尼斯的平底轻舟；飞船的吊船 | |
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anticipations
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| 预期( anticipation的名词复数 )； 预测； （信托财产收益的）预支； 预期的事物 | |
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delightful
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| adj.令人高兴的，使人快乐的 | |
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plaza
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| n.广场，市场 | |
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abound
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| vi.大量存在；(in，with)充满，富于 | |
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oars
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| n.桨，橹( oar的名词复数 )；划手v.划（行）( oar的第三人称单数 ) | |
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dispense
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| vt.分配，分发；配(药)，发(药)；实施 | |
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peculiar
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| adj.古怪的，异常的；特殊的，特有的 | |
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scattered
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| adj.分散的，稀疏的；散步的；疏疏落落的 | |
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thatch
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| vt.用茅草覆盖…的顶部；n.茅草(屋) | |
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literally
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| adv.照字面意义，逐字地；确实 | |
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extremities
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| n.端点( extremity的名词复数 )；尽头；手和足；极窘迫的境地 | |
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culling
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| n.选择，大批物品中剔出劣质货v.挑选，剔除( cull的现在分词 ) | |
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thoroughly
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| adv.完全地，彻底地，十足地 | |
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formerly
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| adv.从前，以前 | |
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distinguished
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| adj.卓越的，杰出的，著名的 | |
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clannish
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| adj.排他的，门户之见的 | |
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intercourse
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| n.性交；交流，交往，交际 | |
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barter
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| n.物物交换，以货易货，实物交易 | |
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mingled
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| 混合，混入( mingle的过去式和过去分词 )； 混进，与…交往[联系] | |
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monks
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| n.修道士，僧侣( monk的名词复数 ) | |
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adobe
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| n.泥砖，土坯，美国Adobe公司 | |
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congregate
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| v.(使)集合，聚集 | |
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Mediterranean
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| adj.地中海的；地中海沿岸的 | |
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grove
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| n.林子，小树林，园林 | |
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cypresses
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| n.柏属植物，柏树( cypress的名词复数 ) | |
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moss
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| n.苔，藓，地衣 | |
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enchanting
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| a.讨人喜欢的 | |
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situated
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| adj.坐落在...的，处于某种境地的 | |
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standing
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| n.持续，地位；adj.永久的，不动的，直立的，不流动的 | |
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displeased
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| a.不快的 | |
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almighty
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| adj.全能的，万能的；很大的，很强的 | |
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doomed
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| 命定的 | |
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sobs
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| 啜泣（声），呜咽（声）( sob的名词复数 ) | |
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bosom
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| n.胸，胸部；胸怀；内心；adj.亲密的 | |
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siestas
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| n.（气候炎热国家的）午睡，午休( siesta的名词复数 ) | |
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panorama
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| n.全景，全景画，全景摄影，全景照片[装置] | |
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enacted
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| 制定（法律），通过（法案）( enact的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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envious
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| adj.嫉妒的，羡慕的 | |
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mimic
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| v.模仿，戏弄；n.模仿他人言行的人 | |
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imprint
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| n.印痕，痕迹；深刻的印象；vt.压印，牢记 | |
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serenity
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| n.宁静，沉着，晴朗 | |
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